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Archived: Balloon Tire and Middleweights
MIDDLEWEIGHT: Coast King
posted by: Rick
on 1/23/2001 at 8:23:37 AM
| Have a ladies Coast to Coast "Coast King" excelent shape, appears the fenders were stainless when painted, some flaking off, what year were these made? don't have a serial # any idea what it's worth? |
RE:MIDDLEWEIGHT: Coast King
posted by rd on 1/25/2001 at 6:33:42 PM
| Those have been posted hear several times if you just look at the old stuff. Don't know what year but they are a cheap dept store bike and hold little worth in the collectors world.|
RE:RE:MIDDLEWEIGHT: Coast King
posted by aaron on 1/25/2001 at 9:03:20 PM
| I had a nice 1950s coast king sold by coast to coast stores, it was made by Monark, one of the best bike makers of the time regardless of where it was sold. The bike was a woman's and had a full sized tank, white wall tires,shocks on the front, nice wide fenders painted, and a neat torpedo head light. The bike was a green yellow and white color. They hold some modest value if in good condition and thier parts are most desirable. |
AGE / VALUE: What is it?
posted by: Paul
on 1/23/2001 at 5:57:29 AM
| I've just found a 50-60's 20" girls cruiser, red and white with a matching seat. No names on the hubs, rims or anywhere, some-one kindly took the name tag.It has 1 1/2" stars going around the chain wheel. Any ideas? I'm in New Zealand. |
RE:AGE / VALUE: What is it?
posted by sam on 1/23/2001 at 7:36:25 AM
| AMF used a sprocket like that.Is the chain gard chrome and comes to a point in the front(might have jets on it)?--sam|
RE:AGE / VALUE: What is it?
posted by rd on 1/23/2001 at 8:03:55 AM
| several used the stars icluding huffy and texas ranger.|
WANTED: Western Flyer X-53
posted by: Charley
on 1/22/2001 at 6:13:57 PM
| I have this old X-53 Western Flyer and I am looking for some parts to restore it. Right now it's a good rider but I can't seem to find a chain guard or a headlight for it. Any info on this bike would be a lot of help |
RE:WANTED: Western Flyer X-53
posted by sam on 1/23/2001 at 2:01:46 PM
| Does your's have the two springer front fork with the light mounted in front?I don't have one but this bike was made by Murray.The light & chaingard from Murray,Mercury,J.C.Higgins of the same year should work.one other thing-I don't have a light because they are very sought after good luck--sam |
AGE / VALUE: WTB: "King-Size" Schwinn American middleweight
posted by: Kevin
on 1/22/2001 at 6:08:00 PM
| Cantilever frame, middleweight, 26-inch wheels, but extra tall frame. They were made in early 1960s. Head tube is 7 or 8 inches long. Could use complete bike or just frame and fork. Email me if you have one please. |
AGE / VALUE: I got the drawer open, now what is this to?
posted by: ChristopherRobin
on 1/22/2001 at 10:36:06 AM
| I wedge myself back into the crawl space in the back room and get the rusty drawers open and Guess What? I'm too stupid to know what I'm looking at!!! Im trying to be picky and usew my brain but I just do not know everything and one day it might all be gone. This means I will be bring home a ton of stuff I have no idea about. drawers full of all kinds of seat posts, brakes, derailurs, just stuff. I'm trying to learn but it is not good enough! |
Can old freewheels the kind with 3 cogs. Can they be dissambled and cleaned and perhaps new springs put in if they need it? Are these junk or should I be adding them to the collection. Oh, I don't know.
RE:AGE / VALUE: I got the drawer open, now what is this to?
posted by Ray on 1/25/2001 at 6:10:37 AM
| Chris, The three cog freewheel was used on some late 40s to early 50 bikes in combination with an old derailleur. |
Does it have any name on it. Do you have more than one, I would be interested in buying one if so. I have my 55 Peugeot and it has a 3 sprocket freewheel on it so this will give you an idea
what era I a talking about. I have also seen them on that same period Schwinn and Raleigh lightweights.
RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: I got the drawer open, now what is this to?
posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 1/25/2001 at 8:45:08 AM
| Moyne,this one is Moyne and the others do not have names on them! You see these are savable but will need dissembly and a good soaking and perhaps a new spring piece. I will grab them up this visit.|
AGE / VALUE: Identification
posted by: Carey
on 1/21/2001 at 5:51:29 PM
| I have an early 50's Bike. Name on chainguard says AutoMoto.Can anyone shed some light on exactly what this is. Head Badge has a fourleaf clover or shamrock on it. Tire size is 26x1.38. I think the bike is European . Does it have any collectability,and what price range. |
RE:AGE / VALUE: Identification
posted by Carl on 1/22/2001 at 5:04:24 AM
| You might want to ask under the English Roadster topic, too. That is a standard English lightweight tire size.|
AGE / VALUE: Middleweight mess
posted by: ChristopherRobin
on 1/21/2001 at 10:27:19 AM
| Im sorry, but Im going to knock the later day Middleweight Schwinn seats!! I took a look at the origonal Schwinn vinal seat that came with this Typhoon and it is a red and white with the Schwinn S. This is from the 1960's but I held it in my hand and this was heated at factory a bit and stretched over the crude metal frame and you know what? This is a cheap piece of junk! They cut corners and this is not a comfortable seat and they could have done better. My problem is, I have gotten a look at the leather one that came with the Phantom and now I am not tolerant of the cheaper middleweight seat that came with the bike. I wanted so badly to throw it in the trash can, but I resolved to keep it with the bike. Cheaply finished seatpost got stuck in the frame and I wanted to pitch the whole bike! I put the whole project on hold because these fenders are so cheap looking and look so horrible.The fender bolt down by the kickstand turns around and around because somebody wanted to save a bit of money and so they ommitted a serrated tooth washer!! Oh happy, happy, joy, joy. It's a piece of Sh...! These parts are not designed to fit into anything that would prevent them from doing this. I mean these pan head nuts and bolts have rusted and are hard to get out because they are in at an angle too. Im impatient and losing my passion for middleweights quick. |
RE:AGE / VALUE: Middleweight mess
posted by Rif on 1/21/2001 at 12:07:58 PM
| Sorry to hear you're not real happy at the moment. I think we've all had our moments like this.|
I guess because most of the bikes I have worked on have been middleweights, I'm just used to these little set backs. I do have to wonder, however, if some of these parts, and/or fasterners were replaced somewhere along the line. My Schwinn mid-weights are well built, and the quality does go down to every detail, including the fasteners. No argument as far as the seats. VERY uncomfortable, and cheap.
Perhaps you are just so used to working on the ballooners that the fenders and such just appear small and flimsey. I have the opposite (yet same :-})perspective when working with a balloon tire bike. Everything appears so heavy and cumbersome looking.
When I get to that frustrated point, I stop what I'm doing and put it away until I am ready to try again with a fresh perspective. After all, this for fun. If I want frustration I'll just wander out into the mundane world for awhile.
Just hang it up for awhile and go on to something else.
Or give it to me, I love mid-weights, especially typhoons! :-}
Hope this hasn't aggrivated you more and has been of some sort of help.
RE:AGE / VALUE: Middleweight mess
posted by A freind on 1/22/2001 at 8:09:27 AM
| Let me start out by saying, stand back for a few hours and collect your thoughts. I am here with you to share a little information with you on Schwinn seat posts. Ones that are stubborn like me. From where I am sitting, I canot see what condition your seat post is in. So I will assume the worst for a moment and tell you why. I have come across schwinn frames with split collars, with shreaded seat posts that people tryed to remove prior to me. This is where my tool came into play. You know how a Schwinn post comes to a taper at the top? Alright! lets say the other guy butcherd it so badly its gone. Spray WD-40 or liquid wrench around the seat post. I own a park bicycle stand to make my job as easy as possible. Now put the frame away. 24 hours later your fun will begin with a R&N 3/4-10NC TAP. Then a 3/4 7inches in lenght bolt. Once you have tapped out the inside diamitor, take your bolt and thread it in the seat post. Make sure you have at least 12 threads into the post for good bite. I don't know how well tooled you are, I use a small air hammer with the chisled end to the top of the shank on the bolt head. This is why you need a bicycle stant or a real good freind who has time on his side. You know where I am going with this right! Blast away with your air hammer around the bolt head. I am sure by now you know the frame is up side down? Where your gloves and safty goggles. That WD-40 should be around you while you are doing this job. A little squirt here and there threw this prodject. Lets say for a moment you donot have air tools". Use a 5lb dead blow hammer and a chisle, and tap around the bolt head little at a time. Post your resalts and let us know how it turns out.|
RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Middleweight mess
posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 1/22/2001 at 10:25:51 AM
| I brought home a Tandem handlebar thingy. This is a Schwinn piece with two A.S. bolts and nuts.. If you are sitting behind the guy in front and you are by the rear wheel this is the handle bar and the post piece that hooks onto the seat of the guy in front of you. the seat post stem thingy and the handlebar. With the two A.S.bolts included. I know it is Tandem for what model tandem I do not know. Also a front or rear brake that is Alloy Pletcher marked Schwinn Approved.|
More front hub cones for Schwinn these are not marked Schwinn but are for Schwinn. N.O.S. cones... who needs a set?
RE:RE: A Friend
posted by Rif Addams on 1/22/2001 at 11:22:51 AM
| Hey thanks for that little tidbit of info!|
I just recently got out of the machinist trade, and have a well tooled shop. I had not thought of this (why it had never occured to me I don't know).
That's great! Sounds like you've done this enough times to really have the process proven!
Saturday I was in the junk pile searching for a seatpost for my old huffy. They were all too big (diameter). So i'm sitting in the rain trying to figure out what to do. I look up in the window and remember the bench lathe I have sitting there in full view. DUH! a few quick calculations, a couple of minutes to set-up, and a couple of minutes to take .015" from the O.D. and Viola! a seatpost for my Huffy Hoopty!
Next I think I'll turn a few chain tensioning screws (for the rear facing dropout bikes) from some aircraft cert. stainless stock I have laying in the bottom of my toolbox.
Well, thanks again for that hip tip to removing stuck seatposts!
RE:RE:RE: A Friend
posted by Happy to help on 1/23/2001 at 6:53:31 AM
| Its good to here that this info can help. I failed to respond to the other problem, the rusted hardware on the flimzee fender. The fastner that is located to the kick-stand housing is a typical problem with bikes that have some years behind them. Espeically if they have been left outside year after year. What works for me is one of my favorit tools, the cut-off tool. This handy air tool has alot of RPM, so caution is needed when using this tool. Try some safty goggles or better yet, face sheild. Do a practice run on a peice of metal in a vice to practice control in a given area no wider than 1" wide. On a middle weight Schwinn. Take your cut-off tool with a new!! 3"dia. x 1/16" thickness disc and gradully press the trigger ever so easy. Now this is where skill is apllied. Take your time and zero in on the center of the rusted fastner. Just like if you were spliting it down the middle. Stop and check your work every now and then, so you don't create more problems. At times I will find you don't have to take it all the way down because your dealing with a rusted part as it is. So with heat + rust = fatique. You can almost take a pair of small needle nose vice grips and go up and down till she gives up. For those of you who don't know what a cut-off tool is, check at a tool catalog. Next lets say you have no source to a compressor or donot have the means to buy this tool. And you have to have this corrected a month of Sundays ago, take a pair of needle nose vice grips and ever so patiant like, go up and down very easy like, so you don't bend the fender tab, Schwinn provided you in the kick-stand housing. Good luck to you, and work smart!|
RE:RE:RE:RE: A Friend
posted by forgot!!!! on 1/23/2001 at 7:05:39 AM
| On the cut-off tool, you need to remove the safty shroud to do this job. Thats why its important to do trial runs first, so you don't move around so much. Don't let the tool control you! You take control of the tool. Just like walking a dog, you take the dog out for a walk, not the dog walking you. |
RE:RE:RE:RE:RE: A Friend
posted by Rif on 1/23/2001 at 11:10:30 AM
| PRECISELY!!! I feel my air tools are invaluable. cut-off tool, 90 degree angle die grinder, and straight die grinder. I cannot count how many times these have been the salvation of removal, teardown, etc.Especially the 90 degree motor. With sanding discs and/or scotchbrite discs for smoothing rough casting seams, and a little extra help removing rust or paint (when necessary).|
As was stated, practice and control are the key to using these tools. ALWAYS wear the proper safety equipment when using any power tool, machine tool, etc.!!! I also find these tools to be invaluable for Kustom work; raking the headtube, cutting spare tubing from junk frames, etc.
take it easy,
posted by ChristopherRobin on 1/25/2001 at 5:17:29 PM
| It's wonderful to know there are smart folks out there who love these Middleweight Schwinns!|
I loved the tool tips. Great advice. Thanks. It is best not to start a project with only half your heart into it at the beginning.
AGE / VALUE: Some fit, some don't and I'm getting dirty
posted by: ChristopherRobin@starmail.com
on 1/21/2001 at 10:10:26 AM
| I've found another skip tooth cog that will fit the Sturmey-Archer threaded driver only this one is a 8 tooth. I'd like to learn all about the threading that the various manufacturers used. Bendix, New Departure, Musslemann, Morrow, Schwinn, Elgin e.t.c. I want to enroll in threading 101. I'm going useless cog hunting again. These are parts that somebody 50 years ago saved after dissembling old hubs and I am putting these drivers in my vise and removing cogs. Some have snap rings, some are two start and I'm learning how to get these apart. Two milk crates full of all kinds of strange parts. I brought home that box of mysterious hub cones all N.O.S. They are New Departure I think. |
AGE / VALUE: need help on headbadge
posted by: jimmy
on 1/21/2001 at 7:17:45 AM
| i have a headbadge (thats what was told told to me)the guy said itcame off the front of the bike i don't know if he meant the fender or what it's shaped like a old zepplin blimp there are to holes that are on the ends well you can tell there was who ever took it off the bike didn't do it right i can send a pic to some one if they can help it's 3"inches long or could it came off a goodyear bike thanks jimmy |
AGE / VALUE: wooden rims clad steel
posted by: aaron
on 1/20/2001 at 11:04:04 PM
| I have purchased a 1920s elgin 26 inch mens bike from a collapsing barn a few years back. The bike has steel clad wood rims which have been repainted black. What color were these originally? The hubs are new departure model d and a skip tooth cog. Also does anyone know what the cost would be to buy new tires for this or how much the rims are worth as is? |
RE:AGE / VALUE: wooden rims clad steel
posted by JOEL on 1/21/2001 at 6:28:06 AM
| Are the rims 26 or 28" ? Single tube or clincher ? You might be able to find the original color of the rims by removing some of the top coat of paint. If the rest of the bike is original, it may be possible to clean the top coat of paint from the rims and save original paint underneath.|
RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: wooden rims clad steel
posted by ChristopherRobin on 1/21/2001 at 10:20:56 AM
| OOHH, A collapsing barn sale. I'd love it.|
MIDDLEWEIGHT: schwinn skipper
posted by: aaron
on 1/20/2001 at 10:56:24 PM
| Up here in Oshkosh wisconsin I had recently aquired a schwinn skipper for $15. It has all original parts, a mens bike (caveller frame) it is 26 inch, has painted rims like a typhoon, chrome fenders, and is a 1964. What was the order of schwinns back then and how much are these going for? I have only seen this one and all resources that i had come across say that these were made in 24 inch frames not my 26 inch. For any info thanks. |
RE:MIDDLEWEIGHT: schwinn skipper
posted by Ken on 1/21/2001 at 3:06:49 AM
| I have a 1964 Schwinn catalog, but no Skipper is shown that year. The middleweights were Jaguar, Tiger, Fleet, Corvette, American, Typhoon and Hornet. I've seen smaller Skippers around, but don't recall seeing on in 26". Could the chainguard be from another bike?|
RE:MIDDLEWEIGHT: schwinn skipper
posted by Gordon on 1/21/2001 at 6:28:07 AM
| My book lists the Skipper being available in 1961 and 1962 in 26, 24 and 20 inch. Are you positive yours is a 1964?|
RE:RE:MIDDLEWEIGHT: schwinn skipper
posted by aaron on 1/25/2001 at 9:18:37 PM
| My bad, its a 1961 seriel number goes M12393....|
AGE / VALUE: 1950s Firestone Indy 500 Promo Bike
posted by: Larry
on 1/20/2001 at 11:46:34 AM
| Mans 26inch Firestone bicycle with Indy 500 on tank.All original, fair cond. Any imformation or history on this bike would be apprec. What is a rough value estimate? Larry |
RE:AGE / VALUE: 1950s Firestone Indy 500 Promo Bike
posted by rd on 1/20/2001 at 7:28:01 PM
| I gave $30.00 for a nice one at a garage sale.|
AGE / VALUE: EBay item #545834359
posted by: ChristopherRobin
on 1/20/2001 at 11:23:15 AM
| I don't know about the price, But this is one nice looking balloon tire bicycle. I love it. E-Bay item #545834359 Manton and Smith, not my auction |
AGE / VALUE: help
posted by: john raechal
on 1/19/2001 at 8:19:16 PM
| I have an old balloon tire AMERICAN FLYER in my collection that I am trying to get an age on. I have been to swap meets and the local shops with no luck except that it is pre-WWII. Anone who could give me some kind of direction on a possible year of manufacture would be greatly appreciated. It resides next to a Manta-Ray, Spaceliner, Elgin, J.C. Higgins, just to name a few. The serial # is intact and bike has been fully restored and is about 90% original in parts. I am wondering if it came with a gas tank or not and roughly how many of these may still exist and be ridden like they should be. |
FOR SALE: more from Huffy...
posted by: Rif Addams
on 1/19/2001 at 10:39:37 AM
| Hi All!|
I realize that most people aren't into old Huffy bikes. They were a lesser quality product when new, and haven't gained any points as the years drfit past.
That's O.K. by me, keeps 'em affordable. I've always been into stuff that wasn't exactly 'mainstream'.
Anyway, two days and a barrage of e-mails later, we have determined my Customliner is around a 1957. They seem to believe it to be the deluxe model.
I will be recieving in the mail, photocopies of the catalog pages with my bike!
Again I want to state how pleased I am with their help and interest in this bike, and my research. It's a rare thing for a company to have such interest in something that hasn't been manufactured for four decades.
My roomate is of the opinion that the customer service people were bored and I was just giving them something interesting to do. Whatever the case, hats off to Huffy Bicycles for being so helpful and quick to respond.
RE:FOR SALE: more from Huffy...
posted by Joel on 1/19/2001 at 11:43:26 AM
| Cool. It's good to know that Huffy is willing to dig up a little information (unlike other companies).|
Huffman/Dayton made some of the coolest prewar cruisers before a design flaw in their Twin Flex model cost them their reputation.