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which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.
| I have heard that some of the very first 46 Schwinn B6 came with drop center rims which later that year changed to Schwinn S2. I am restoring one that has both (to bad to save). Any help would be appreciated. Thanks; Bob by: 24.151.236.178 |
| Check this site. Click the ID Facts link... http://www.angelfire.com/rant/allday101/SchwinnCodes1.html by: 138.26.156.139 |
| Thanks, great info, what I need I could not find. Bob by: 24.151.236.178 |
| Isn't the S2 a 571mm rim? I need a crash course in the Schwinn rim designations, when they were used and what tires they took. I know that my '48 B6 took standard 559s. When did the 571mm wheel become the 26" standard for Schwinn? by: 209.7.184.147 |
| I am looking for information about a "Royal Master" bicycle manufactured by "The Cleveland Welding Co." The serial number is: "D49958 AC". by: 65.138.110.200 |
| We've made a first pass at a serial number lookup program where you click on the make of the bicycle, enter the serial number, and magically get the year of manufacture. Right now it only works for post-1957 Schwinns, but over the winter we should be able to get Raleigh, Columbia and Huffy bicycles, as well as others where the serial number can be determined by a formula - please email your suggestions. Cut and paste this link to try it: http://oldroads.com/serial_number_lookup.aspx Vin - Menotomy Vintage Bicycles, Inc. http://OldRoads.com by: 172.133.62.227 |
| hi what are the right steps and procedures for painting a bicycle. from what i know these are the sets: 1) remove existing paint using paint remover and sand blasting it or use 120 grit sandpaper until all paint and rust are removed. 2)use primer 1-2 coats. 3) use filler if needed.then use 120 grit or less sandpaper and for final shaping use a fine (320 grit) sandpaper. 4) use primer 1-2 coats. and rub it down with a 400 grit sandpaper . 5) apply 2 coats of color paint 6) then apply graphics paint /design 7) use 1200 grit sandpaper 8) and apply clear coat im trying to paint my columbia bicycle and pls let me know if i have the right procedure.thanks by: 202.81.166.36 |
| Sounds about right, but I'd scratch #7. Finish might not look right around the decals if done like that. Might need quite more then two color coats though.... Take care, Kurt by: 205.188.116.198 |
| I don't like the sanblasting either. If you blast I think you have tyo powercoat or you will get pitting. by: 69.152.222.44 |
| you dont need to sand off ALL the paint, only area's of chipping, scratches or rust, but make sure everything is sanded evenly so you dont get designs in the paint....but if you want, sand off all the paint. be sure you have plenty of light where your working!!!!!!!! I've painted things with poor light or in the dark, thought it looked great, then saw it in good lighting and was like.....ugh.... another thing to ad is while its in raw metal, spray it with carb cleaner then wipe it down good, but make sure all of the cleaner has dryed so it doesn't leak out on the paint. spraying it down like this makes sure theres no trace at all of any grease or wax, which causes another problem for paint, known as "fish eye", in which tons of little tiny dots appear showing whats underneath the new paint, its not pretty!! and No, sanding doesn't always remove all grease or wax. I had two frames sandblasted and yeah, you get sort of a "pitted" or Magnesium looking finish on the metal.... I didn't get my frames powdercoated (wanted to but didn't know of any local places) but I just used fairly rough sandpaper (dont know the grit) and sanded the pits out of the metal. good luck! by: 12.75.173.177 |
| I sandblast all my frames before painting.The word "sand" in sandblasting is missleading.I use a very fine power that removes the paint and leaves a smooth service.Real coarse sand will do just what the other guys said.I like the blasting as it gets all the rust out of pits before the primer goes on. then you can use a lite coat of bondo to fill pits.Hand sand off all the Excess bondo and reprine. Lots of work but worth the effort ---I've got two frames in the works right now---When I load up the paint gun to spray--several frames are no problem,and I don't wast paint that way.--- sam by: 69.151.96.99 |
| hello i have a 1950s 5 star columbia bicycle. i would like to know what are the original color combinations used for this bicycle. the most common is green and white, red and white , and black and white. are there any other color combinations aside from these? by: 202.81.174.21 |
| I think I've seen orange and white on one - not sure if it was an accurate restoration or not. by: 152.163.100.198 |
| I am trying to date a set of Schwinn S2 rims that are stamped (schwinn tubular s2) BUT have only a single knurl down the middle opposed to the double knurling that I'm familiar with. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Steve by: 209.204.154.224 |
| Are you sure they are S-2's; not S-7's? by: 4.243.58.84 |
| Yes, the rims are S2's and not S7's. Thanks by: 209.204.154.224 |
| 1980's Hungarian made for schwinn. by: 209.204.154.224 |
| AAAahhhh; I see. Thanks for posting that, I'll add that to my archives... Rif by: 4.243.62.34 |
| If your b6 is a late 1940 it probablly came with painted s2 rims,that were marked s2 but had no knurling,i think the knurling showed up in 49 by: 4.142.222.80 |
| Just a short note. The Larz Anderson National Bike Show will be held on Sunday August 14th at the Museum of Transportation at Larz Anderson Park in Brookline, MA. Set up time will be at 9:00AM, with show times between 10:00AM to 2:00PM. There may be a swap meet held independently of Larz in+ Watertown on Saturday the 13th of August, with the show the following day. Further information on the show events and the possible swap to follow in further postings. If you wish to be added to our mailing list or are interested in a swap space, please email me at hetchinspete1@yahoo.com. Thank you, Peter Naiman Hetchinspete by: 65.31.181.155 |
| just list a decent 1964 Schwinn Tiger, 99% original, on ebay. go check it out! --mike. by: 66.52.250.163 |
| Item number would help ;-) by: 152.163.100.198 |
| sorry bout that, here is a link, just cut and paste: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2284339852&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT --mike. by: 66.52.245.171 |
| I found an old Rollfast tandem bicycle with a baby seat on back. I have never seen one of the 3rd seats before. It is painted black and white. I cant tell what year it is, can anyone tell me how to tell what year this rollfast tandem might be? And the average value for it if it is great condition? Also, if anyone would be interested in purchasing it? My number is 559-686-3361. by: 69.106.189.55 |
| I own a Rollfast tandem from the 1960's and had just watched one sell on ebay for $100 without a third seat. Is the third seat an aftermarket add-on or built to the frame? by: 12.34.182.176 |
| This is one rare early balloon tire bike my buddy and I picked up today, it's one that he has been trying to get from a customer after he was told about it. The customer didn't know what brand of bicycle it was only that it was given to his uncle in 1937, I'm not sure if he received it new or used. The headbadge reads True Value ROADWAY underneath the model name has B.H.S or B.S.H. & CO., Chicago, Illinois. The Troxel leather seat with chrome trim & springs is in great shape, Skip-tooth sweatheart style sprocket like that on a Schwinn, truss fork, rear stand, flat fender braces. Has anyone seen a True Value ROADWAY bicycle before? I have not been able to find anything on them in the last hour on the few sites I have visited. by: 12.34.182.144 |
| You are going to have to post some pics or email me with pictures. Bike could have been made by anybody for a store or bike dealership that would have put their own brand badge and maybe other markings on the bike. Pic's are worth a thousand words in this case. easywind2@yahoo.com by: 206.207.109.159 |
| The friend who owns this bike has taken a few photos on print but now will need to have it put on a CD so I can post it here(Friend is not computer friendly). It does have a Sweetheart chainring , Comet pedals were something I noticed today while checking it out. I had told him it was most likely made by someone other than True Value(Hardware store fame?)at the bottom of the brass badge were the initials H.S.B.& CO. and Chicago, IL. I don't know if the initials relate to True Value or the bicycle maker. I guess I'll need to do some research on the True Value Hardware store history. Dan by: 12.34.182.172 |
| HSB refers to Hibbard,Spenser and Bartlett.They were a large wholesale distributor of hardware store items. by: 4.131.5.79 |
| Thank's for the info! I'll jot that down, did other bicycle makers in the '30's use the Sweetheart sprocket design other than Schwinn? I'm wondering if my friends find is a Schwinn built model distributed by H.S.B.& CO. by: 12.34.182.172 |
| check out this big orange 26" beast. bmx geometry, but unlike anything else i've seen. perhaps this is a beachcruiser of some kind? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7110757008&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT --mike. by: 66.52.251.190 |
| We've written a new search function which reads 10 years of our on-line Vintage Bicycle archives covering 16 databases and 250 megabytes of data. Give it a try and let us know what you think of it. Click on "Try our new search engine" near the top of this page. Vin - Menotomy Vintage Bicycles, Inc. http://OldRoads.com by: 172.129.69.238 |
| Do most skip-tooth chains not come with a break plate link? Can you use a modern chain-breaker for removal of skip-tooth link pin's? Or will I have to use a punch for this job of breaking the chain apart? by: 12.34.182.149 |
| I've been collecting bikes a long time and have never run across a skiptooth chain that didn't have a master link. The master link plate is held on with pressure. To remove it you need to flex the chain in the proper direction. by: 66.97.233.98 |
| I've actually run across a few that did not have master links. Some modern chain tools will work. The one I'm using now required some modification. by: 138.26.156.139 |
| The chain is on a 1937 Shelby and I thought I was nut's as I flipped and turned the chain back'n'forth and found no master link, the pin's are dimpled on end so I thought about using a punch and hammer, I'll purchase a modern breaker first and try it, thank's. Dan by: 12.34.182.162 |
| After further review....I found the master link! The side plates of each link are identical, nothing that would appear to give it away as a master link. What I did notice was the master link was the only link where the pins were not indented on end. It was easily removed and now the frame is ready for it's restoration. Dan by: 12.34.182.133 |
| I have a Schwinn Whizzer frame and parts. The serial number is on the left rear drop J46269. I'm told this bike was made for Whizzer by Schwinn in 1953 and not just a Schwinn converted to Whizzer. Can anyone help me as to it's authenticity? Many thanks Gary by: 24.92.13.62 |
| look in the top rear stay from the wheel and see if the frame is dimpled for belt clearance. examine the quality of this dimple. Schwinn had a tool to do this and made a professional job. home kits either didnt dimple it or used a hammer or similar. serial number tells you nothing. by: 68.188.219.215 |
| I am in need of some real help, does anyone know what seat is correct for a 1951 Schwinn Panther(Girls)? I am also in need of a Blue and Chrome Rocket Ray, you know the one thats going to cost me more then the bike! Thanks by: 67.165.242.137 |