| I have been able to find out general numbers of bicycles Schwinn made by year. But what I have been unable to find out are numbers made for each model of Schwinn bike by year. Example: How many Hornets were made in 1956? Does anyone know of a resource to answer this question? Thanks.|
| Hello. |
As you can see by the photos on the listed web page (http://www.rohair.com/tandem.html), I have an old tandem bicycle I'm refinishing, and am hoping you can help me properly identify it.
From other photos I've seen while researching, it looks like a Columbia Twosome from the late 50's or early 60's, however, the serial number (#E508482 located on the left rear dropout) does not appear to match anything the Columbia chart.
I'm not familiar with other tandem manufacturers from this time period, and could really use some direction here.
This bike - when we purchased it from a garage sale - appeared to have all the original components. It is a single speed with a Bendix coaster brake, steel rims, and had two messenger style black seats that did not have any manufacturer label.
Original paint was medium blue, and the previous owner hand-painted over that with PINK! Upon removing the layers of paint I could not find any decals or headbadge that would give any indication as to what style bike this is. Based on Sheldon Brown's info, it is a fillet-brazed bike as gold colored brass is apparent at the joints.
Hope you can give me a good (or exact) idea what bike this is. Thanks for your consideration. Any diection would be very much appreciated!
| It's not a schwinn.Can you post pics of the sprockets?--sam|
| More information on our show at Larz Anderson in|
Brookline, MA, please visit our website.
Our webmaster, Vin Vullo has had an extremely busy
season at his shop in Cambridge, MA and has been
unable to update our original site, so I've built a
temporary site with Vin's help. To access the site for
further information about this years show please visit
out new and temporary website while we build a new and
improved site. Below is the link.
As noted on the site pre-registration is not required,
but we would love to hear from you before hand to find
out who is coming over and what bikes you will be
bringing to our event. If you wish to be on our
permanant mailing list, please contact me by email.
There will be a separate swap meet sponsored by Linda
Pernice on both Saturday and Sunday, August 13th and
14th in Watertown, MA about a ten minute drive from
our show. For further info on the swap please contact
Linda by email at: email@example.com
Peter Naiman & Maurice Bresnahan
| an old 50's style "pink lady" bike.says pink lady on the chain guard and the headbadge. . says "Behrens" on the seat post tube. the seat cleaned up amazingly, the tires are original and in good condition, they say"Dunlops Extra Prima" and "made in germany" the frame says "made in west germany. west germany isnt even a country anymore.|
open to any offers. will trade for muscle bikes, parts, frames or projects. if theres n o takers its going to be scrapped. email me direct at firstname.lastname@example.org for more pics
| I'm hoping somebody can give me some help. I'm restoring a Shelby Flying Cloud for my wife. It was in really bad shape so I'm repainting it. The frame is almost ready. I'm wondering, what's the best way to get the hanger cups off? This is the first time I've restored a bike instead of just throwing them together for fun. I want to do it right because the bike is so cool and about 65 years old. Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
| I always just reach through the hole with an old screwdriver or a punch and tap them out from the inside.|
| I made a tool for doing this.|
Quite simply, I took an old length of nylon round stock 2" O.D., cut it off at around 12", chucked it in my lathe, and turned it down to 1.5" O.D. up to about 4" of it's length, and faced the end.
Now, I just apply a little penetrating oil, let it soak in a bit (depending on how crusty the frame is), and stick the tool in throughone bearing cup and using a soft faced dead blow hammer, gently tap the bearing cups out.
Works fairly well without marring or damaging parts.
I've made one for the headset bearing cups as well.