MIDDLEWEIGHT:   a little help with identification posted by: sean on 2/26/2006 at 10:46:37 PM
hello everyone. i recently bought this bike and i don't know what make or model it is. if anyone could help with that information, i would greatly appreciate it. there don't seem to be an marks or numbers on it. also, i need to buy a chain for it. i don't know if i should take it to a bike shop and have them look at it, or if there is a way for me to derive the size on my own. thanks.

-sean


by: 66.56.12.99



   RE:MIDDLEWEIGHT:   a little help with identification posted by Spike on 2/27/2006 at 2:28:03 PM
Not an expert but it looks a lot like a Columbia that I have.Look for a serial number.Numbers appear in a number of places at different times on the various makes.The rear drop outs(where the rear wheel mounts,the bottom bracket(where the pedals go through),the head tube(where the handle bar stem goes through),The seat tube up near the seat.Tire size may help date it as well.I'll be glad to look at some pictures of details on the bike.Just email.Chain is an easy fix if you can handle tools.You can get the chain at walmart,a bike shop,kmart etc. It is called 1/2 X 1/8 chain.usually labeled for single speed and 3 speed bikes.The other common chain is 1/2 X 3/32.This is for multi speed bikes like 5,10 speed etc.The department store chain will come in a length of about 100 pitches(links)you will need a chain break to make the chain the right length simply put it around the gears/sprockets and remove links to the proper length with the chain break.It comes with a master link hook it up and adjust it to about 1/2 inch deflection slack.
Keep in mind as it wears the chain will stretch.
It appears to my limited expierence that bike chain is only available in the bike world and not readily available at industrial warehouses that supply chain and gears to the world. Spike
by: 24.58.64.136

   RE:MIDDLEWEIGHT:   a little help with identification posted by Joel on 2/28/2006 at 2:54:02 PM
I think that's a Murray from the 50s. The sprocket and truss rods are Murray.
by: 138.26.156.139






AGE / VALUE:   Mohawk 3 Speed by HP Snyder posted by: Mike Cable. on 2/20/2006 at 6:33:25 PM
I was wondering if anyone knows anything about this bike such as age, value, etc... I know one of their good bikes is in the Smithsonian. Thanks for any help and the bike is in very good original condition. Mike.
by: 72.66.139.151







FOR SALE:   30's mercury frame posted by: ernie on 2/19/2006 at 11:48:51 PM
I have a mercury bike frame with the headstamp Says made by murray of ohio. I believe it to be 30's vintage. Chainguard and a few other parts also. anyone interested or have idea on value? Can mail photos
by: 68.101.160.211


   RE:FOR SALE:   30's mercury frame posted by bob on 6/8/2006 at 5:09:03 PM
good morning. could you send me a picture of the frame if you still have it. I have 39 mercury men's bike that I have been restoring for several years and am curious what yours looks like. thanks, bob
by: 163.41.248.2






MISC:    Roadmaster brake light help posted by: Nick Wheeler on 2/19/2006 at 7:00:34 AM
I have what I think is a repro 51 Roadmaster. Maroon with chrome fenders and The assembly I was sent for the brake light is a flat piece of metal about 5" long with a screw in the middle (To make it shorter) and a brass plate on one end that apparently is supposed to contact the chain when you brake, with a wire leading up to the tail light to complete the circuit. This thing attaches to the rear swing arm under the chain by a theaded hole on the underside of the arm.
Does anybody know more about this type of setup? How it's REALLY supposed to work? I have pic, but don't know how to send it. Thanks so VERY much!
by: 67.65.25.250







MIDDLEWEIGHT:   Help with a coast brake hub? posted by: Mike on 2/18/2006 at 12:10:35 AM
Today on a ride my girlfriend's 63 Schwinn Hornet ran into problems. A little over an hour into the ride the hub began giving problems. She complained that the hub became harder to pedal. She had the hub serviced recently by a local bike mechanic who repaired the bearings and added some fresh grease. She'd said at the start that the hub seemed tougher to push along than it was before slightly, but right at the end of the short ride she had a failure of the hub because the rear wheel began to struggle. Apparently there was more friction than there was before and the bike became very difficult to pedal. I looked some info on this problem up and one site suggested that it was old grease. I'm not totally convinced it's this because the hub suddenly became significantly more difficult only at the end of the ride. Any ideas?
by: 147.9.151.17


   RE:MIDDLEWEIGHT: Help with a coast brake hub? posted by Scott on 2/18/2006 at 4:18:15 AM
they probably reassembled it too tight.
Scott
by: 71.108.82.200

   RE:RE:MIDDLEWEIGHT: Help with a coast brake hub? posted by eric on 2/21/2006 at 4:09:11 PM
Old brakes have old grease. I like to brake the hub down to each part and give it a good cleaning before adding new grease. Did the shop do that?
by: 69.229.238.201

   RE:MIDDLEWEIGHT:   Help with a coast brake hub? posted by Ken on 2/23/2006 at 3:36:27 PM
IF the shop didn't tear it all the way down, and you don't feel like arguing with them about why they didn't do the job correctly, you can overhaul it yourself with simple tools. My guess is the mechanic had very little more experience overhauling coaster brakes than you have- it just isn't done that much any more. See
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=104
for the lowdown. My experience is that you rarely need to remove the brake arm from the axle, so you shouldn't have to measure and recenter the axle, but it's good advice anyway. If you pay attention you will have no problems getting it back together. You'll impress your girlfriend.
by: 209.7.184.147