| I've got an 1940s Roll Fast with a broken crank. Specifically the pedal snapped through the crank arm. I was wondering where I could get a replacement crank set (or better yet just the crank arm) that would fit this model.|
| Nothing special about that crank. Any bike shop should have one or just buy a complete bike at Salvation Army or thrift store.|
| I give Brian about an 80% chance of being right on this one, assuming it's an ashtabula crankset. There is more than one thread count or diameter in use on these, (Schwinns of that era being a notable example), more than one chainring center diameter and more than one type of bearing cover/seal arrangement, so should you wish to use the existing chainring and fit to the existing races, you will need to remove all the hardware from your broken crank and match its thread. If you're willing to use any chainring with the crank it came on, the only real interface is the bearings. So four times out of five, perhaps, the crankset that comes to hand will serve.|
| It sounds to me like he is working with a 2 or 3 piece crank since he has suggested just replacing the arm. If it is a 2, it probably is earlier than 40's. If it is a 3, it might be 50's or 60's.|
| I just found an older bike at a yard sale for 10 bucks. Its a middle weight Firestone that says Sports Tourist on the down tube and Warrior vagabond on the kickstand numbers 7311824 below that 09-01-027-0 and finally 474-3(711-890) . Does anyone know what all that meens and or how old the bike is. It has a nice reflective badge on the front actually the bike is in great shape . The only problem is a small amount of paint damnageand the tires are showing a tiny amount of dryrot. I now its worth 10 bucks!!!! Tom|
| I ment to say it says Warrior vagabond on the Chainguard not kickstand and the numbers are on the rear wheel gusset thing. They seem to be the only numbers on the bike. Thanks Tom|
| I have a Trojan CO1016 54? I do not know what make etc. The spokes are almost gone. What type & size do I need to replace them with or can I find replacement wheels? any help or additional info greatly appreciated...|
| That is what the bike shop is for. It doesn't cost anything to go in and tell your story.|
| Look at pictures of Monarks in the database and see if they are similar to your bike. You should be able to take a spoke from your wheel to your local bike shop and get replacements the correct length. You could also look for a bike at Goodwill that has good wheels the correct size if you aren't concerned with keeping your bike all original.|
| Hi! I don't know much about old bikes so bear with me. I have a Arnold Schwinn "Admiral" with a TA serial number. I believe this to be from the 1930's. The bike is a ladied model that is complete minus 1 or two original nuts. It has the letters A S & Co machined into the sprocket/crank and I have never seen that in all the research I've done. Is this a rare sprocket/crank. Should I part the bike out or sell it whole? I hate to part it as I believe old complete things should stay that way! Any advice/comments would be appreciated. Thanks, Scott|
| That's the way they made 'em. |
I agree with your philosophy. Sadly those of us who want to keep things whole often have to find storage space for them... if you sell it the next owner may part it out, but you have to sell it to find out what it's worth to anyone but you.
| Update. Somebody in the lightweight group told me this posting should be in the middleweights. However, I'm sure this is a lightweight bike as the tire size is 26 x 1 3/8". Also, the Musselman hub has a 1,900,000 patent number which dates it to 1934/1935. This bike has a key-lock to keep the forks from moving and the seat matches those I've seen from the 1930's. The handlebars are very rounded ie: no unbent tube except where the grips are. Still I'm mostly interested in the sprocket as described in the original posting. Any help? Thanks for your thoughts Ken. Scott|
| Not to chase you around, but that wheel size suggests the roadster page... but first, clarify that it is in fact fractional and not 26x1.375, which is a different deal. |
You haven't actually described the chainwheel. Can you take some pictures?
Then go to the schwinn frame dating info at
and see if you can find any features that help pin down the era.
| Scott, I just thought to ask if it's an Ashtabula crankset. Schwinn made some upper-end bikes with 3-piece cranks with the AS&Co look around 39-41. The New World was that way briefly.|
Be patient with me, sometimes I don't absorb everything I read. Your chainwheel probably is rare- I know a guy who parted out a women's new world for that chainring, had it rechromed for a prewar Superior I think it was.
| Ken, It does say 26 x 1.375 on the tires. Here is a link to what guys on the Schwinn site are saying. They say it is a rare 1-piece Superior crank? I have pictures there also as I can't get them to load here? http://www.schwinnbike.com/heritage/showthread.php?t=49777|
Thanks for your help, timeinabottle
| Scott, it was enlightening to read the schwinnbike comments and view your pictures. I have what appears to be the identical frame, except that mine had the three-piece crankset, which requires a different bottom bracket. Based on what know, I agree it's about 1940. The reason I have it is the dilemma they faced: previous owner needed the crankset to restore a rare prewar Superior, and when he retired and cleaned his garage this stuff was left over. From the absence of downtube markings I suspect yours has been repainted. If you want I have a picture of the original details.|
I don't know whether the one-piece crank is harder to find; I doubt it, but yours obviously has some value. My first response was the same as Mark Smith's: they put these on T&C's and stuff.
Don't discount the value of your saddle, either, just because it ain't too clean- people restore those too.
And then the wheels are unusual too. If your wheels are in good shape they may be of interest to someone.
Your front fork looks a little bent in the photo. I've got one with the fork lock. Unfortunately, I don't have the key!
Keep me posted-
| Ken, I hadn't realized, until today that is, that you had replied. FYI I'm selling it on e-bay now. Here is the link with alot more pictures. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=220162819925&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=012 It probably won't sell as it's pickup only but I wanted to be able to at least say that I tried to keep the bike whole. If it doesn't and you are interested in parts, keep checking after the auction is over as I'll be listing them shortly. Forks are straight by the way and the tires are 26 x 1 3/8 not 1.375 as I previously stated. One of them is hardly used and the other has cracks in the side walls and probably useless. Anyhow, thanks so much for your assistance & take care, Scott|
| I have a N.D. Model "D" hub that I recently took apart, cleaned, lubed and re-assembled and now when you pedal and coast, the front crank still wants to turn? Any help would be great? Schematic, anyone?? |
| Did you get the brake discs back in the correct order? They alternate - stelle, brass, stell, etc. Also, did you replace the transfer spring? Often the little tab gets bent of broken. I have a parts diagram, but it will take me a little while to get it scanned and posted.|
Thanks for the tips. If you do get a chance to forward a diagram, that would be great.
| Here you go: http://www.nemontel.net/'gbradbury/ndept.pdf|
There is a tilde before gbradbury, not an apostrophe.
| Thanks for the .pdf, just printed it out & I'll let you know how it goes!|
Eveything worked out perfect. The discs & the transfer spring were not lined up, properly.
Thanks for all your knowledge.