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Archived: Old School BMX







WANTED:Boa Brake posted by: jason on 5/18/2001 at 7:56:48 AM
Me again..Does anyone have a black ACS Boa front brake they will trade for a black ACS Boa back brake? In my opinion these were the best side pull brakes. I need one for the front. Used is just fine as long as it works. My is used as well.


   RE:WANTED:Boa Brake posted by Jerry on 5/26/2001 at 6:29:07 AM
I have a front in black will trade for front nippon.






MISC:The New School bikes posted by: Jason on 5/18/2001 at 7:08:46 AM
Can I just say something and we'll see who agrees? Is it just me or do damn near ALL the "new school" frames look practically the same? Are they all being built by the same company? I know the top tube standing platform frame design may seem obsolete but it has style. A freestyle frame with a single top tube just isn't right. It's kind of like how we build buildings nowadays. A big box with glass. No fancy Victorian/Gothic architecture. Just a freakin box. Function over form. So now we have done the same to freestyle bikes. Isn't designing a frame an art? Is it impossible for someone to design a frame that is strong AND has a nice look to it? Surely someone could do that. I don't care if it isn't necessary I like the double top tube design of Torkers and old Masters. I like the way Hutch built the Trickstar. I really don't care to own a bike with a single top tube. It's just so.... plain. That's my opinion. As far as alot of the new bikes go, if they didn't come with stickers on them I'd never know there were so many companies out there. I'd swear they were all from the same one.


   RE:MISC:The New School bikes posted by Dan on 5/19/2001 at 10:04:14 PM
You just don't see too many Torkers, PK Rippers, Quadangles, and other innovations anymore.

   RE:MISC:The New School bikes posted by Mike on 5/21/2001 at 10:56:51 AM
Have you guys checked out Alliants line up
http://www.alliantbicycles.com/index_2.htm

   RE:MISC:The New School bikes posted by Jason on 5/21/2001 at 11:48:15 AM
That white one looks kinda' cool. Sort of like a Quadangle. About the Quad..Is SE even around anymore? I never hear anything about them.

   RE:RE:MISC:The New School bikes posted by Dan on 5/22/2001 at 5:49:40 PM
Is'nt that a shame? SE is my all-time favorite bike company. You guys are right! Those bikes on that web-page look pretty similar to The PK (on the right) and the Quad (on the left). Hey! Remember "Landing Gear" forks? Were those not the most bullet proof forks ever built? There was another fork (not from SE) that extended the arms about 2 inches below the drop-outs... and I had the name in my head yesterday... Do you guys remember those?

   RE:MISC:The New School bikes posted by Jason on 5/22/2001 at 10:47:07 PM
Landing Gear forks are STILL some of the best damn forks you can get. I had a pair on my Trick Star forever. Still have 'em. They're chillin' in the corner. I'm saving them for when my Haro forks shatter. Which WILL happen unfortunately.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:The New School bikes posted by mike on 5/24/2001 at 8:06:44 AM
about those forks with the extra long legs, i believe those were bottema forks. very heavy-duty!!

   RE:MISC:The New School bikes posted by No One on 5/24/2001 at 10:47:32 PM
Alliant frames are similar to SE frames because the company is owned by a guy who owned SE.

   RE:RE:MISC:   The New School bikes posted by jim on 5/30/2001 at 8:17:22 PM
I thought that DirtMaster was owned by Garyu Turner (formerly the owner of GT) ???

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   The New School bikes posted by Jeremy on 6/15/2001 at 9:37:21 PM
The Dudes from SE and GT are heading up Alliant and DirtMaster. I talked to one of their Reps a few weeks ago.
Peace






AGE / VALUE:JMC DYD posted by: John on 5/17/2001 at 6:19:28 PM
I Have a JMC Darrell Young design in MINT condition. I am the original owner, and raced heavily in the early/mid '80's. My best season was '85 finishing 18th nationally (NBL).

The bike is chrome, and equipped with flight 401's, hutch pedals, phil wood hubs/araya 7X rims (1.5's), ESP stem - exactly the way I raced it back in the day.


Is this bike desirable?


   RE:AGE / VALUE:JMC DYD posted by Russ on 5/17/2001 at 10:49:53 PM
Yes.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:JMC DYD posted by John on 5/18/2001 at 2:52:05 PM
I was saving this bike for my 4 yr. old son until I discovered this "old school" stuff.

I don't have any way of posting pictures, but rest assured my bike is unrestored and very, very nice. On a scale of 1-10, I would rate it a 9+.

I've received some E-mails about condition and component colors and stuff.

Here goes:

I built the bike in the early spring of '84, and every metal component is either chrome plated or polished. The A'ME TRI grips, brake cable housing,Kashimax MX saddle, and California Lite pads are red.

Here is a more detailed list of the components:

JMC Darrell Young Design frame and fork.
ESP stem.
GT pro handlebar and straight seatpost.
Redline 180mm, 401 crankset. (Note: They had a black "Redline" decal in the insert of each arm, and I still have the yellow T-handle allen wrenches.)
Phil Wood spider.
Diamondback chainring.
Hutch pedals. (Note: They have the name "Hutch" cast into them, and I had the cages chrome-plated in '85.)
Polished Phil Wood hubs ,DT spokes "race laced" 4X/aluminum nipples, chrome 1.5 Araya 7x rims.
Suntour freewheel. (chrome)
Sedis chain.
Diacompe MX 901 brake. (Anyone remember this trick? I used a circular,finned aluminum Koolstop brakepad for a spacer between the brake and frame-It looks cool as hell!)
Koolstop pads.
Bear Trap headset, stingray-styled bottom bracket bearings.
Zeronine numberplate.(NBL)

Extras:
Full set of Pete's Precision chainrings.
Flight chainring.
Hadley sealed bearing bottom bracket. (Note: Bottom bracket is NOS, in box.)
Zeronine numberplate. (ABA)

My bicycle has been stored in my basement and not been ridden since '86.

This forum is great. It brings back alot of good memories.

John


   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:JMC DYD posted by John on 5/19/2001 at 4:06:02 PM
I can't decide which chainring to put back on my JMC.

My choices are:

Phil Wood or Sugino spider.
Diamondback Turbolite or Pete's precision chainring.
I also have a NOS Flight chainring. I never mounted it after all these years.

Also, should I mount my NOS Hadley bottom bracket, or is it cooler to leave it in the box and use the stingray-styled bearings?

I would greatly appreciate any help.

John



   RE:AGE / VALUE:JMC DYD posted by Dan on 5/19/2001 at 10:09:52 PM
Hey,

Keep the bike, NEVER SELL IT.. and shed some tears when your son takes home his first trophy with it... I set up my old Mongoose Pro Class as a mini last month for my little nephew... I 'm tellin ya.. NOTHING could have replaced the feeling I got watchin him race with my old championship machine.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:JMC DYD posted by John on 5/25/2001 at 7:43:47 PM
I sold it.

$1800.00






WANTED:Need another frame posted by: Jason on 5/16/2001 at 8:11:45 AM
I am going to retire the Trickstar and try to preserve it before it eats away on me. So I need another frame. The only frame I have is a Hutch Trickstyler. It's a great frame but it's been cracked and re-welded so I really don't want ot be riding this thing. Does anyone have a Hutch Trickstar 2 frame (any year) they will sell? I'd also be willing to buy an 88 Haro Master frame. Obviously I'd prefer them to be un-cracked. I do not need a fork. I have a Landing Gear fork. I have no desire for Haro forks. They were a safety hazard. If anyone has either one of these frames and they would be willing to sell let me know please. They can be used, just no cracks.


   RE:WANTED:Need another frame posted by Jason on 5/17/2001 at 5:45:12 AM
You know what? I'd even consider buying an Ozone if anyone has one of those. Let me know.

   RE:RE:WANTED:Need another frame posted by Mike on 5/17/2001 at 2:09:17 PM
Ebay has a couple worthy Sports right now...






MISC:frame builders posted by: Jason on 5/15/2001 at 6:31:28 PM
Out of curiosity, does anyone know of an American company that can replicate a bike frame? If the price isn't too crazy I'd like to have new Trickstar with 990 mounts and minus the welded on chainstay platforms. This way I could retire the real Hutch frame before it ever gets damaged. This thing appears to be getting some rust from the inside of the seat tube. I fear it may rust from the inside out unless I can get this damn seat post out and clean the rust out of the inside of the seat tube. This frame has no cracks anywhere but riding a bike with a slowly rusting seat tube is eventually going to be dangerous.


   RE:MISC:frame builders posted by Rob on 5/15/2001 at 8:26:19 PM
to second your question,What ever happened to the Tiawan company that made the later years model of Hutches???

why can`t they be convinced to continue that line,along with better quality built into the frame,ie,990 mounts,maybe a built in seatclmp,like the PK rippers,etc.....
I know there tons of smarter more knowledgeable people here....can anyone maybe enlighten us ?...thanx,Rob

   RE:RE:MISC:frame builders posted by Mike on 5/16/2001 at 7:23:30 AM
I would find a frame with similar specs (geometry) w/the 990's. The tooling costs for building a bike would high, it would be cheaper to buy another Hutch. I use a Hoffman 990 mount on the front of my bike and it works great.
For the seatpost, use a pipewrench. The post is already ruined if it's rusted, so tweaking it a little won't hurt it at all. Some WD40 or Liquid Wrench will help alot. If you can get it to spin but not come out of the seat mast, put it in a vice and spin the frame. Not pretty, but it will work.

   RE:MISC:frame builders posted by Jason on 5/17/2001 at 5:49:55 AM
regarding that seat post problem...it's been soaking in WD-40 and Break Free for a day or so. A pipe wrench couldn't grab anything. It just slid all around the post. I clamped the post into a table vise while me and another guy turned the frame. Well, the top half of the post snapped off. I have about 5 inches of the worlds most stubborn damn seat post sticking out of the top of this frame. This sucks. The frame itself is in such awesome condition. Escpecially considering all the hell it's been through. I cannoy believe a frame that old still hasn't cracked even all the bashguard slamming it has been through. I really wish I could get this damn seat post out and save this frame. Anyone know of any other way to remove a stubborn rusty seat post? Even after all this soaking it doesn't even move a millimeter. Not even barely.

   RE:RE:MISC:frame builders posted by Rob on 5/17/2001 at 9:36:42 AM
Jason,take the cranks out of the frame, set the frame upside down,and pour some marvel mystery oil in there...i also use reg. 3-1 oil,and sometimes a can of Rustbuster,break free oil...now cap the end of the seapost with a soda bottle cap..pour your oil into the seattube hole inside the bottom crank bracket...keep the frame upside down for a day or so,let the stuff do its job...hope that helps...Good Luck,best wishes......Rob

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:frame builders posted by Rob on 5/17/2001 at 9:39:39 AM
oh yeah,when you go to monkey wrench that seatpost,grab a socket that fits INSIDE the seatpost...put an extension on it,lower it into the pole...just at the top...now clamp your monkey wrench,pole will NOT get crushed or break off,and should come out...cheers,Rob

   RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:frame builders posted by Mike on 5/17/2001 at 2:17:58 PM
That is a cool tip Rob...
I have never seen a seatpost that rusted in before... I have seen a 7/8 post POUNDED into the too small seat mast of a Huffy Pro Thunder though. I just about died... Remember the Stu Thompson model? I am surpised that one of those hasn't hit Ebay... complete NOS, track certified...
Anyone else have any trick tips to share?
My fav is the Billy Griggs WD40 grip trick- even though the grips break down from the inside out, they last for months and its better than 10 minutes of wrestling.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:frame builders posted by Rob on 5/17/2001 at 6:05:23 PM
Thanx Mike.
on the HandGrips,i always use an old toothbrush to wash/scrub the inners...then,just wash the bars where the grips will be,and dry...then a little bit of water inside the grips,pop them on,wait ten minutes,and you should be all set...
that WD-40 trick does eat up the inners...also,i never was a big fan of hairspray either.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:frame builders posted by Rob on 5/17/2001 at 6:10:12 PM
oh yeah,just for giggles,i meant to mention that i do have one of the Blue thunders...the model just below Stu`s huffy....Track certified,with blue/gold trim....Yes,i know its a cheese wannabe bike,LOL...but its fun to look at...
How many of you guys actually remember riding these junkers around???...
Man,we used to tear these up on a daily/weekly basis.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:frame builders posted by Mike on 5/17/2001 at 7:30:39 PM
Rob-
My cousin had the 2 speed model of the Huffy you mentioned! That was the first 'true' BMX bike that I ever jumped! When you'd pull up it would shift because of the throttle like shifter... after he upgraded to a Skyway and I had my first Red Line, it was all downhill. BMX was life. I was nice enough to bend his cranks for him.
I had a Huffy Thunder 36- I am sure that 36 did not mean the number of spokes on the wheels. I can't believe the air that I caught on the bike! I never cracked the frame even! I spotted one of the grips in my parents garage the other day... the rest died in 1983.
Spoke nipples to tie up cable ends is another neat trick I like... I also used to run my bottom bracket with no retainers, just ball bearings. For some reason I went through bottom bracket cups like mad. Why I did that I have no idea. Probably some Pistol Pete influence. Ha!

   RE:MISC:About that seat post posted by Jason on 5/18/2001 at 7:03:30 AM
This is a little odd but there is no hole in side the bottom bracket to the seat post tube. The only way into that tube is from the top. I fill the whole seat post (whats left of it anyway) with WD-40. It's been soaking and I'm gonna' leave it there for days. Never heard of Rust buster. Gonna have to go look for some of that. The socket idea sounds good. I may give that a try in a couple of days or so.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:frame builders posted by Brian on 6/30/2001 at 3:07:18 AM
I worked in a shop for nine years and I always pushed the WD-40 grip trick(people would freak) and yes I remember the blue/gold trim Huffy's, mine had Maxi-cross cranks, KKT pedals, and no name brakes that stoped like disc brakes.
By the way I pulled the grip trick thing last night on my mountain bike and my buddy looked at me and said "So you think that's gonna work, huh?" I just smiled and slid the grip on. (Oh, yeah It's gonna work ;) )






WANTED:chrome plated 48's 3/8ths axles posted by: Jason on 5/13/2001 at 5:23:33 AM
I wouldn't mind a new set of wheels. I'd like to find some chrome plated 48's with the old 3/8ths axle. The new axles won't fit in my frame. I'd really like to have some Alex triple wall rims but I doubt anyone has those with the axle I need or at a reasonable price. I'll settle for a double wall rim. They can even be used as long as the axles and rims aren't bent. If you happen to have a set of wheels like this you'd sell e-mail me and let me know what you'd want for them.


   RE:WANTED:chrome plated 48's 3/8ths axles posted by Jason on 5/14/2001 at 4:02:59 PM
I have been informed that Peregrine makes some good wheels called Phat Jacks that are 48's and chrome plated with 14mm axles machined to fit in 3/8ths dropouts. If you have a set or know where I can get these please let me know.

   chrome plated 48's 3/8ths axles posted by Rob on 5/15/2001 at 10:32:50 AM
Jason,i recently bought some Wild Wheels...they are Peregrine Madd Maxx Rims..they are 3/8ths axle too..they have 16 spokes each wheel,with 8 on a side....they say 48`s on the hub,but are 16 spokes only,and are like 14mm thick spokes.......while 16 spokes doesnt sound like much,they are Super Strong......the weight difference is unbelievable....i was running peregrine Master graphite mags,but we all know how much fun it is to get the brakes to work with mags......anyways,i`ve already been thrashing these rims hardcore...at first,i was a little nervous about only 16 spokes,but the rimset has superior strength.....if you would like a picture of these rims on my 89 redline,lmk....hope this helps...cheers,Rob

   RE:WANTED:chrome plated 48's 3/8ths axles posted by Jason on 5/15/2001 at 3:10:26 PM
I just found a pair of chrome Redline 48's with 14mm slotted axles and Alex triple wall rims. Yeah! Ten years later my brakes are finally gonna' work.






WANTED:Sprocket/Chainwheel bash guard posted by: James16 on 5/12/2001 at 2:19:58 PM
Hello, I'm looking for a bash guard for my bike and I have not been able to find on so here I'm, if you have one or you know were I can buy one please let me know. The brand does not matter to me even if its used.

Thanks.


   RE:WANTED:Sprocket/Chainwheel bash guard posted by mike on 5/12/2001 at 4:30:58 PM
i can get you a bash guard but it will still cost about $35 plus shipping. email me directly.

   RE:WANTED:Sprocket/Chainwheel bash guard posted by Greg on 5/12/2001 at 6:20:23 PM
I have an NOS in the box GT chrome bashguard for 30.00 + shipping. Bashguards are making a comeback!! Todd Lyons is using one, but they have really gotten xpensive since the 80's!!!!!!!

   RE:WANTED:Sprocket/Chainwheel bash guard posted by James16 on 5/15/2001 at 12:58:14 PM
Thanks but I was looking for something cheaper.

   RE:RE:WANTED:Sprocket/Chainwheel bash guard posted by Rob on 5/15/2001 at 8:20:49 PM
Thats A Pretty Good Price for a GT Bashguard.....it sure is.






FOR SALE:PK RIPPER!!!! posted by: mike on 5/11/2001 at 7:55:12 PM
act fast on this one!!! looptail PK RIPPER. original grey with original decals. also has original landing gear forks. frame/fork only $300 + shipping. wont last long!! email me directly.


   RE:FOR SALE:PK RIPPER!!!! posted by Todd on 10/4/2001 at 12:31:16 AM
Do you still have RIPPER frame and fork? If so please list details.






WANTED:OLD SCHOOL MCS STYLER FRAME OR WHOLE BIKE posted by: Mark on 5/10/2001 at 6:40:35 PM
Will pay top dollar$


   RE:WANTED:   OLD SCHOOL MCS STYLER FRAME OR WHOLE BIKE posted by jim on 5/30/2001 at 8:25:37 PM
I can get a styler NOS sticker set if you are interested email me ;-) ! Jim






WANTED:NEED WHEELS posted by: JOHN on 5/8/2001 at 8:33:26 PM
I NEED THE ORIGINAL BLUE TIRES WITH THE WHITE WALLS ON THE SIDES AND BLUE SEAT TO AN 80 OR AN 81 SKYWAY


   RE:WANTED: 1980-81 skyway BMX parts posted by John on 5/9/2001 at 12:28:57 PM
I am looking for the original spoke rims,blue tires and a good set of original handlebar grips to my skyway that I found last year.






WANTED:Searching for V bars posted by: guido on 5/8/2001 at 8:15:42 PM
I`m looking for a set of Chrome steel (not aluminum) V bars. I remember them from the late 70`s and early 80`s on BMX bikes where the cross bar was shaped like a V and I need some for my project. Any help would be great. Thanks.


   RE:WANTED:Searching for V bars posted by guido on 5/8/2001 at 8:20:44 PM
Oh, E-mail me direct if any are around. Thanks again






FOR SALE:kuwahara scamp posted by: mike on 5/8/2001 at 4:56:47 PM
JUST CAME ACROSS THIS!!! kuwahara scamp complete. white with lavender accents, neck, clamp, seat, yadda yadda. with original PERIGRINE MASTER GRAPHITE COMPOSITE mags, lavender color to match bike. as far as i can tell, the only thing changed on this bike is the rear brake pads, they used to be white. dont ask if your not serious!!







FOR SALE:Old School Mongoose BMX ( Like Decoster ) posted by: Terry Lively on 5/8/2001 at 5:25:27 AM
Check this out.
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1140949785







FOR SALE:Old School Mongoose BMX ( Like Decoster ) posted by: Terry Lively on 5/8/2001 at 5:25:27 AM
Check this out.
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1140949785







WANTED:schwinn scrambler posted by: Steve Martinez on 5/7/2001 at 11:21:29 PM
Does anyone know if there is an early stingray style Schwinn Scrambler?My friend says their is, but I am not sure and he is deperately seeking one.


   RE:WANTED:schwinn scrambler posted by Trance on 5/8/2001 at 5:35:40 AM
Yep, the early Scramblers were based on the Sting-Ray cantilever frame.