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Archived: English Roadsters







AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Sports posted by: MP on 10/22/2000 at 5:34:09 AM
I have acquired a ladies Raleigh Sports and want to know how to tell the age of it. It looks to be from the 60s because of the cottered cranks and S/A 3-speed hub, but I can't be sure. It is in immaculate condition and has a beautiful Brooks leather seat. Is this model considered a high-end cruiser or just another flea market bike? Any information would be appreciated.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Sports posted by Grant on 10/22/2000 at 9:48:19 AM
TO tell the age, clean off the rear hub between the spokes and
look for the Sturmey-Archer emblem. It will be stamped with a
date to the left of the emblem, for example 4 70 is April 1970.
Old ones are stamped below the emblem, very old ones are not
stamped. In that case look for a serial number on the seat post
just below the seat.

Maybe I am unlucky but all my English bikes have seats covered in
black artificial leather or vinyl. Even the one on my Superbe.
I suspect only the older ones were leather. Or maybe Canada did
not get leather seats, who knows? I know they still make leather
seats, I just don't happen to get any.

The Raleigh Sports is their most popular type of bike made for
everyday transportation. They are not spectacular looking, and
collectors of balloon tire bikes and racing style bikes tend
to look down on them. However they are a high grade bike for
a mass produced product, much better in quality than the typical
Japanese or Taiwann bike you get today. They will give good reliable
service almost forever and require a minimal amount of upkeep.
Many of us think very highly of them. The Raleigh company made dozens
of different makes such as Raleigh, Dunelt, Triumph etc. for their
own dealers and for distribution by chain stores department stores
etc. but the Raleigh brand was the best of these. The others were of
equal quality and durability but the accessories such as seats, fender
stays and cable adjusters were simpler and cheaper.

To me and to many others these are a desirable bike. But they made so many
of them and they last so well that there is still a plentiful supply and this
keeps prices down. Also they are not flashy and do not atract the type of
collector who will pay silly money to hang them on the wall and take them
to shows. The appeal of quality is subtle but real.


   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Sports posted by Keith on 10/23/2000 at 10:33:27 AM
I hung my red 1962 Dunelt on my office wall at work, but it was free. I'd ride it, but I have a '65 Dunelt for that. The red paint looks nice, and people's eyes get kinda wide when they step in and see it, along with my early 70s Peugeot track bike hanging on another wall.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Sports posted by Jon on 11/7/2000 at 4:37:35 PM
It wasn't unusual for dealers to swap out the leather saddle for a cushy, vinyl, spring-loaded seat. In the age of "instant gratification" people did not want to take the time to "break in" a good leather saddle.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Rare chrome rod-brake Raleigh posted by: Jeff on 10/20/2000 at 12:37:58 PM
Yes, I'm back with my mystery Raleigh, only this time I have a picture to prove that it exists: It's available at http://members.aol.com/stngrayj33/raleigh1.jpg
I'm still trying to get a positive ID on this bike. (Special thanks go out to Grant, Sheldon Brown, and ChristopherRobin for giving me some ideas on where it may have originated from.)

Jeff


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Rare chrome rod-brake Raleigh posted by Calvert on 10/20/2000 at 5:25:56 PM
A few weeks back there was similiar bike on Ebay. It was labeled a "Terry Touring Classic" The photo is now gone but here is how it was described:

Georgena Terry's twist on the classic touring bike. This 18-speed bike was built circa 1988-89 and is ready to tour. The smaller (24") front wheel permits normal frame construction for a person of small stature without resorting to sloping tubes and shallow frame angles. The rear wheel is a standard 700-series.

Perhaps your Raliegh was built with this sizing problem in mind.

Here's the address should you want more information.
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=454090838

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Rare chrome rod-brake Raleigh posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 10/21/2000 at 11:30:30 AM
Aw, dude youre missing the end piece for the enclosed chainguard and if you rechromed an endpiece the chrome would not match. I love these balloonish tires! Cool! IU discovered I have a 26 inch front fork in chrome without decals in my stash. Thanks for the pixs, I drooled.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Rare chrome rod-brake Raleigh posted by ChristopherRobin on 10/21/2000 at 11:41:20 AM
What size are these tires? Did they ever use this size in England. I never saw these tires until I got the catalog from Africa. Yet your badge says Nottingham.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Rare chrome rod-brake Raleigh posted by Jeff on 10/21/2000 at 8:52:05 PM
The tires (Tyres) are Dunlop "Oversize" 26 x 2. Other than the aftermarket generator light, everything on the bike was made in England. I am looking for a chaincase part for it. I guess I could use a black one and have it replated then leave it outside for a year so it will match everything else on the bike :)

   26 x 2 TIRES posted by ChristopherRobin on 10/22/2000 at 9:19:00 AM
These are the tyres (tires) that were used on the rear wheel of the Raleigh version of the Schwinn Cycletruck. A quite similar version can be purchased today from Pashley in England

   RE:26 x 2 TIRES posted by Calvert on 10/22/2000 at 5:09:59 PM
In at least some of the Brit parts catalogs these tyres are refered to as "balloon."

Chris is correct. This is one of the two sizes I see on Raleigh trade bikes. On the regular two 26 inch wheeled delivery types this is often the size too.

Pashleys current low-grav trade bikes can be ordered with drum brakes, though with S/A gone maybe that will change.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Rare chrome rod-brake Raleigh posted by Tim Powell on 10/23/2000 at 8:48:12 AM
I had a Triumph Tourer made by Raleigh which was all chrome plated. My father boughtit off a guy who worked in a chrome plating factory where many of the men plated bikes, car parts motorbike parts etc. as a sideline when the foreman wasn't looking. My Triumph had all decals and badges etc. so it must have been fairly new when done(this was nearly 40 years ago now). Maybe your bike was the same?

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Rare chrome rod-brake Raleigh posted by Christopherrobin@starmail.com on 11/1/2000 at 9:36:56 AM
I have heard this story before and there is truth to it. These are never seen, hardly ever. There was a Robin Hood in all chrome offered by Lazywalker bikes a while ago and Robin Hood was made by Raleigh in Nottingham, England. I have no catalogs where chrome is mentioned as an available finish.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Sturmey Archer bites the dust.... posted by: Calvert on 10/19/2000 at 10:35:01 PM
For a couple of weeks I had assumed that S/A would find a buyer just as Brooks did. Today I heard from Limeaphile bicycle dealer that S/A will be broken up....that is "rest in pieces."






   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Sturmey Archer bites the dust.... posted by ChristopherRobin on 10/21/2000 at 11:31:50 AM
This bites.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Sturmey Archer bites the dust.... posted by Bob on 10/22/2000 at 3:00:32 AM
I wonder where we will be able to obtain replacement Sturmey Archer 3-speed hubs or Dynohubs in the future. Where could we get them now? There must be almost literally millions around and one would assume that there will be a lively aftermarket for them for many, many years to come.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Sturmey Archer bites the dust.... posted by mike q. on 10/22/2000 at 8:11:45 AM
The full range of SA hubs are still available from Persons at pre-panic prices. Apparently they have a plentiful supply.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Sturmey Archer bites the dust.... posted by mike q. on 10/22/2000 at 8:12:01 AM
The full range of SA hubs are still available from Persons at pre-panic prices. Apparently they have a plentiful supply.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Rampar DL-1's posted by: Calvert on 10/19/2000 at 10:20:20 PM
This was just posted to the Classic Rendezvous List:

>I just sold a '78 Raleigh DL-1 that had this same "R" decal as well as
>the Nottingham badge. Another decal (not seen well in the eBay pics) is
>on the top of the top tube and states "Made in England".
>
>I assumed it meant the frame too ...

The facts as I have them for an older man that worked at the
Raleigh plant in Kent, Washington. I can't remember the gentleman's name
but I think he also worked for Raleigh in England. The facts as I was told
are; if it has the stylized "R" on the seattube at least the frame was
built in Asia (Taiwan in specific, I think), some of the other parts were
built there too. The frames were sent to England to be painted, stickered,
and built up. This is a cost saving measure used by many bike companies
before and after this period. The "R" was placed on them to designate
between the two kinds of Raleighs coming out of the factory. I've never
seen a Roadster from this period that was other than a Rampar built frame,
but I have seen Sports from this period with either the "R" of Raleigh
Heron. Usually the bikes with the Sports with the "R" had mattress saddles
and standard cranks, pedals, stems, ETC. The Sports with Raleigh Herons
had Brooks saddles, Raleigh cranks, pedals, stems, ETC. Speaking on the
headbadges, how many things do you see with a "made in USA" sticker that
wasn't made in USA?

As I stated in the earlier post these "Roadsters" where created for
the nostalgia market, which would explain the parts upgrade. My guess is
the tooling for the 28" wheeled Roadster frames and rod brakes had been
destroyed or sent "overseas" many years earlier and it was much cheaper to
have the tooling redone in Taiwan. These Rampar/Raleigh Roadsters were
only made for a few years so going with existing "outsider" tooling or
manufacture saved the company many thousands of dollars. With that said
there are maybe 1/100th the number of Rampar made bikes than the older
bikes Raleigh made from the 30's to the 50's, so maybe in the future
they'll be more collectible than the fully-english ones.

I'm not a Raleigh expert but I've worked in the industry for 15
years and know all the corners companies take to save a buck. If you want
more info on the bike s see Sheldon Brown's web pages at:
. Or if you're in Seattle
go see Val at The Bikesmith he's a Raleigh nut and was with me when this
discussion about Rampart built bikes happened, he may also know what the
guys name was.

enjoy,
Brandon"now working in a pro road shop owned by Lance's personal wrench,
but still loves old 3-speeds"Ives

PS: I would recommend that anyone who likes "classic" bikes get themselves a
Raleigh 3-speed of some kind, you'll be suprised.







AGE / VALUE:   Fuji Cambridge 3 posted by: ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 10/19/2000 at 2:55:43 PM
I have never seen this before and it was cheap, so I brought it home. This is a camelback frame, 24 inch or larger. 27 inch wheels, steel cotterless cranks, rear hub is a Sturmey-Archer A.W. three speed only the hub is labeled up Sun Tour ! A Sun Tour shifter too! only this is really an improved Sturmey- Archer type shifter exactly same shape only the bulbous plastic knob is rubber in this case and is soft to the touch. When you pull back the shifter to fit a new cable it goes back enough to do it easily. Not so with origonal Sturmey- Archer shifters. This Japaneese shifter is a really close copy of the origonal. The hub is the same inside, I just cannot believe Sturmey- Archer let the name Sun Tour be stamped on the hub. Brampton or Hercules or Steyr yes, but Sun Tour? This is a nice bike! I pulled off the steel single speed front crank and went to an old alloy Stronglight double, I will be setting this up as a hybrid and wheels are now changed to alloy rims. A Brooks B-66 on an alloy post Mafac racer brakes in back but I have run into a problem in the front because the stock fork is not long enough to accomodate a brake hanger so I am thinking the brakes over. A pletcher rear rack because even though this has seperate braze on's for one it is nissing the rear rack. Hence the Pletcher addition. I hated the steel kickstand and tossed it out. It was cutting into the chain- stay's. (I like to lean up a bike) A nice long handlebar stem with comfortable bends. I pulled the horrible grips off and put on some black DARF or Raleigh Tourist grips. I love the feel of these grips! No bell, or lights, or front rack at least not yet. I replaced the headset cups, bottom bracket cups/spindle/balls. New brake and gear cables too. This is a really comfortable, fun to ride Japaneese city bike from 1978 or so. (I found a part that was stamped with a date mark) I see Fuji had an answer to the Raleigh Tourist D.L.1.3 speed. I wonder how many they sold? I have never seen this bike before. Also picked up a Raleigh Record, but this is not turning me on and I should have passed it up. It's a Raleigh so I brought that home too.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Fuji Cambridge 3 posted by racerrex on 10/22/2000 at 4:56:05 AM
I have a humped back Cambridge III also. I think that they are pretty well built for Japanese bikes of that era and Fuji's ability to copy the English is sometimes remarkable. I have started buying Fuji's ( normally under $10, I'm cheap) to add to my rental fleet.






AGE / VALUE:   Fuji Cambridge 3 posted by: ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 10/19/2000 at 2:55:43 PM
I have never seen this before and it was cheap, so I brought it home. This is a camelback frame, 24 inch or larger. 27 inch wheels, steel cotterless cranks, rear hub is a Sturmey-Archer A.W. three speed only the hub is labeled up Sun Tour ! A Sun Tour shifter too! only this is really an improved Sturmey- Archer type shifter exactly same shape only the bulbous plastic knob is rubber in this case and is soft to the touch. When you pull back the shifter to fit a new cable it goes back enough to do it easily. Not so with origonal Sturmey- Archer shifters. This Japaneese shifter is a really close copy of the origonal. The hub is the same inside,


   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Fuji Cambridge 3 posted by ChristopherRobin on 10/21/2000 at 11:02:17 AM
I am not really sure how old it is, probably not more than 20 years.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Fuji Cambridge 3 posted by Grant on 10/19/2000 at 7:35:57 PM
Patents only last 17 years. So you can make any patented product
or invention patented before 1983 without asking permission
and without paying royalties and it is perfectly legal.

As the Sturmey-Archer hub was first made over 100 years ago they
could have been making it since the early 20th century.

I'm not sure how long English and Japanese patents last but
they all run out sooner or later.

Sounds like a neat ride. Was it made during the Real Bike Revival
of the last 10 years?

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Fuji Cambridge 3 posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 10/22/2000 at 9:16:40 AM
the Suntour labeled Sturmey-Archer hub is marked 1978

   Augh, What do I do? posted by Christopherrobin@starmail.com on 10/27/2000 at 7:12:53 AM
The steer tube is not long enough to accomodate a front cable hanger which keeps me from switching over the front brake to centerpulls. There is no more stem!
Any suggestions?






AGE / VALUE:   Chrome Raleigh posted by: Gordon on 10/19/2000 at 1:01:44 PM
Not my bike but I think you guys would be interested. On the Schwinn collectors forum there is a picture of a chrome Raleigh with full chaincase, rod brakes and Brooks saddle.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Chrome Raleigh posted by Jeff on 10/20/2000 at 12:46:32 PM
This one is mine. I just put a picture of it on my homepage too. Check it out at:
http://members.aol.com/stngrayj33/raleigh1.jpg
It's a real neat bike- I can't wait to get it cleaned up so I can ride it!
Jeff






MISC:   Note from Sweden posted by: JimW. on 10/18/2000 at 10:49:04 PM
My friend Jacob Munkhammar, the Bugatti authority and bike freak
has returned to Stockholm after living in Norway for a number of
years. He wrote recently about a line of Swedish roadsters he
likes:

I've found a beauiful Swedish bike that I'll possibly buy, come spring.
Check it out here:
http://www.skeppshultcykeln.com/modeller.asp?art=herr_z
(Click "Färgfakta" to the right for a slightly larger picture.)

"Skeppshultcykeln" mainly make beautiful "old fashioned" bikes. Their
standard models have had the same frames since the twenties and are still
built with the same craftmanship as back then, with sadles in leather and
so on, but some updated with gears and other modernities. Click "MODELLER"
at the above page to check their whole program. Check "Promenad" for
example. "Ess" is another (more modern) minimalistic beauty.

An interesting thing Skeppshultcykeln have on their site is "Auto-D" which
is an automatic(!) gear mechanism for bikes! The site doesn't tell too
well how it works, though. I'll ask when I check the Z-bike out.


   RE:MISC:   Note from Sweden(2)Auto-D posted by JimW. on 10/19/2000 at 10:15:19 PM
Since that site is in Swedish, and I was curious about that
Auto-D shifter, Jacob translated the info for me. It sounds
fascinating:

Auto-D is the absolutely most comfortable gear system you can imagine, as
it automatically chooses the best gear.
---
The Auto-D display is easily accesible beside the right handle and has a
large digital LCD-display and a LED indicating the shift points.
---
CPU
Controls the automatic gear shifts from a reference table and the size of
the wheels. All information is saved - even when changing batteries.
---
Gear shift motor ("Växlingsmotor")
The super slim shape of the motor makes it incredibly light and energy
efficient.
---
Speed sensor ("Hastighetssensor")
A compact speed sensor is placed on the frame and the wheel and feeds the
CPU unit with information about the speed.
---
The advantages of Auto-D
Automatic gearing make biking easier.
The speed sensor feeds the CPU unit with information about the speed
and makes sure Auto-D shifts at the right time.
You always start in a low gear - allowing easier and more efficient biking.

Functions to choose from:
D-function for normal automatic gear shifts.
DS-function for quicker up-shifts.
M-function for manual shift with push buttons.

Control display with speed indicator
The display continuously shows the current speed.
Gear shift is indicated both optically and with a sound signal.

Basic set up
Just insert battery and start biking.
Default set up: Auto-D is callibrated for 27" wheels, but set up can easily
be changed to fit other wheel sizes.
---

/Jacob

Does that sound as surrealistic to anyone else as it does to
me? A 27"-wheeled roadster whose design hasn't changed since
the 1920s, with a standard equipment computerized hub shifter?
And I thought the French were strange.

   Bugatti bike? posted by Randy on 10/19/2000 at 10:20:35 PM
I realize that this is off topic, Jim, but does your friend have any pictures of the Bugatti bicycle (the one with the multi-tube triangulated frame)? I've read about it but never seen a photograph and would love to...

   RE:Bugatti bike? posted by JimW. on 10/21/2000 at 8:27:29 AM
Jacob and I have discussed Bugatti bikes before. There is
no real connection between the autos and the bikes, other than
the name. So, Jacob doesn't have a database to do with them.
However, that one sounds really interesting. I first heard
about Bugatti bikes from Fred Hajny, who was maybe about to
obtain one a couple of years ago. I don't know whether that
one had a "birdcage" frame or not. Anyone have any pix, info?

Ettore Bugatti had a moto-bike put together, supposedly as
a testbed for a tiny 300cc supercharged engine intended for
a post WW2 minicar. I'd love to see pix of that one, but none
have ever turned up. Jacob's website and E-mail are as follows:
jacob_munkhammar@mac.com & http://homepage.mac.com/jacob_munkhammar/
He's a wonderful source of information about all things
Bugatti (except bikes).

   RE:RE:Bugatti bike? posted by Grant on 10/22/2000 at 9:21:44 AM
I histories of Ettore Bugatti and his cars, they mention
that he had a bicycle or bicycles made to his own unique design,
in his own factory, for his own use. Are you saying he also
made them for sale? I have never seen one, are there any pictures
on the net?

   RE:RE:RE:Bugatti bike? posted by Randy on 10/22/2000 at 9:50:33 AM
I'm not talking about a production bike with the Bugatti nameplate, but a "one-off" bike that Ettore Bugatti made himself.

From what I've read, it had double small-diameter frame tubes, with small rods or wire criss-crossing between them for triangulation (like a radio tower).







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Fall Ramble posted by: Bill H on 10/18/2000 at 10:10:51 PM
Took advantage of a great fall day and strapped a tripod on the saddlebag and took out an old camera and rode the DL-1 around town, pausing to photograph the pretty scenes. The trees in town are getting to their peak, the air is crisp and dry, and the late afternoon sun is golden. It was a pleasure just riding around and taking it all in. I did a few errands enroute and it was such a joy getting out on the bike. Everybody seemed to enjoy this fine weather, knowing that snow may be around the corner. Even saw a few English bikes in use, ones I hadn't seen in town before. The Roadster forces you to sit back, relax, and take it all in. I trust you all are getting in some fine riding as well. Enjoy it!







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1971 Superbe posted by: Fred on 10/18/2000 at 5:09:57 PM
I traded a friend of mine a good serviceable Sports today for a ladies Superbe. This is the first Superbe I have seen in the "flesh". Both bikes in the deal are original, straight, and work well, but are moderatly scruffy from poor storage. The Superbe has the dynohub but the lights have been removed. It also has the fork lock sans key of course, and the parcel rack, but no enclosed chaincase. I had very little invested in the Sports other than the cost of tires. My friend offered to buy new tires and tubes for the Superbe. Nice guy. Now I have to search the archives for the notes I remember from the past on dynohubs. If I can't find them I will be asking questions. Hmm,I have more sports than I can use and two Dl-1's, 3 Hercules, a Dunelt, and a Triumph, now the superbe. Whats next?


   Dyno remagnetizer? posted by Randy on 10/19/2000 at 10:27:06 PM
Does Jobst Brandt own that now? I'm assuming that it's the one that was built for Wheelsmith. When I learned that the shop had changed hands, I called to ask about the machine. They hadn't used it at all, but weren't ready to sell it. I never did get around to calling back and asking them again...

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1971 Superbe posted by Paul M on 10/21/2000 at 10:40:19 PM
Fred, if I remember right, a long time ago Randy Gordon mentioned a bike shop (I think it was in California) that had the original S-A equipment to re-magnetize Dynohub magnets. Perhaps you can find that info in the archive.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1971 Superbe posted by Warren on 10/18/2000 at 7:50:45 PM
Hey Fred...glad you finally got one. A '71 Superbe would have had a hockey stick chainguard. I've got one as well as a light set in working condition...the rear lens is missing. You're welcome to them...contact me offlist.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1971 Superbe posted by Grant on 10/19/2000 at 6:14:56 AM
Hi Fred,

For lights you can use any 6 volt headlight and taillight.
Use the same double wire used for any light set. If you have
an old light set use it. There is no pos or neg, the hub puts
out alternating current.So it does not matter which wire goes
to the bulb and which is ground.

The only difference is, you will have to add a switch to turn
off the current. On the original Raleigh light it is on top
of the headlight.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1971 Superbe posted by Bill on 10/19/2000 at 11:13:52 AM
The Dynohub only puts out 1.8 W, just over half the standard
3 W generators. The original bulbs were a 1.5 W GL448
headlamp and GL 228 0.24 W taillamp. See Tony Hadland's
site at http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/'hadland/samaintind.htm
for a master catalog with repair and maintenance information.
Do not separage the magnet from the armature on the Dynohub,
unless you want to have Jobst Brandt remagnatize it with
his custom built magnetizer.

Reflectalite http://www.reflectalite.com/ still has some
of the GV602 6V 1.2 W headlamp bulbs which work with a
standard GV601 6V 0.6 W taillamp bulb, though when they
run out of GV602's it's unlikely any more will be manufactured.
I'm trying a GH105 halogen headlamp bulb from reflectalite
with a dynohub now (no taillight) This is a 5V 1.5 W bulb.
The dynohub will drive it to 5.5 V which lowers the life
of the bulb but produces more light-close to the standard
2.4 W generator headlight bulb. You will need some type
of switch to turn the light on and off, whether it be
separate or incorporated into the headlamp as in the original.

Another option with the Dynohub is to use 5 nicad cells and
a rectifier to drive a standard 3W generator set up. If
you ride in with the lights off at least half the time,
the dynohub will keep the batteries charged. Of course
you will have to size the batteries to the run time you
need with the lights on. I have a dynohub charging a
6V battery driving a 10W headlight, the
dynohub extends the range and lifespan of the battery
a little, and is also a back up to drive a separate
headlamp with the GH 105 bulb if I run out of battery.

For me what was next was a 50's Raleigh Lenton Grand Prix...
but that's getting into the Vintage Lightweights area :-)


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1971 Superbe posted by Fred on 10/19/2000 at 7:09:17 PM
I thank you for all the information. The generosity and technical knowledge of the contributors to this forum always amazes me.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1971 Superbe posted by Grant on 10/19/2000 at 7:46:49 PM
On the subject of remagnetizing dynohubs this is a good idea.
They slowly lose their magnetism even if you don't take them
apart. I had a 1967 BMW motorcycle and the magneto wouldn't
work because the magnets were weak and it was only 10 years old
at the time. I had the magneto remagnetised and it worked like
a champ.The so called "permanent magnets" may be better than
the old steel ones but they don't last forever. Once they are
recharged they are as good as new.

You need an old time auto electric shop to do this. They have a big
electromagnet for recharging tractor magnetos. At least small
town and rural ones do. I think it may be the same thing as the
growler they use for testing generators but maybe not.

I have never had to pay for this service but that is how small
town shops are. In any case it only takes a few minutes so the
fee should be reasonable.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1971 Superbe posted by Paul M on 10/21/2000 at 10:56:16 PM
Please ignore my post above. I did not see Randy's reply of 10/19.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1971 Superbe posted by Randy on 10/22/2000 at 10:12:23 AM
Yeah, I don't know why the software stuck it way up near the top (maybe because I changed the subject line?)






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   CHAIN CASES posted by: Tim Powell on 10/18/2000 at 10:55:42 AM
I live in SouthWales in the UK and have eight Raleigh Roadsters. I also have a few other old bikes i.e. Sunbeams, Hudsons, BSA's, Hercules etc. Most have come from the local dump. Does anyone know where I can get full chaincases to fit Raleighs as most have been removed from the machines I have. Preferably in Europe but anywhere as a last resort.
Thanks.







MISC:   Sturmey Archer hub maintenance posted by: Robert on 10/18/2000 at 10:52:55 AM
What type of maintenance should you perform on a S/A hub that you are going to put into service for the first time?
This being one that you do not know the history on and only know that it shifts and functions at present. Specifically a mid 80's AW and and 80's or maybe mid 90's AWS.

Thanks. I really enjoy the info provided by the folks on this site.

Robert


   RE:MISC:   Sturmey Archer hub maintenance posted by Robert on 10/18/2000 at 11:14:34 AM
Thats an AWC not AWS hub. Brain not engaged.

   RE:MISC:   Sturmey Archer hub maintenance posted by Fred on 10/18/2000 at 5:08:50 PM
Robert, the first thing I would do is take the wheel off the bike and feel the workings by turning the axle. If it is smooth, I would run through the bearing setting and check it again. If it is not smooth, and you feel vague grinding in the works you could have bad bearings or something may be wrong in the gear area. That means a teardown which is not as daunting a task as it might seem. The hard part is not losing teensy pawl springs and getting the parts assembled in the proper order. Give all parts a good cleaning and oil them up before assembly If all is OK add a few drops of good motor oil. I'm betting it will turn out to be OK.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Sturmey Archer hub maintenance posted by Robert on 10/19/2000 at 10:45:09 AM
Thanks Fred, I'll do just that.






AGE / VALUE:   Early Raleigh Tourist D.L.1. rims, Mighty Strange!! posted by: Christopher on 10/17/2000 at 5:51:04 PM
These are weird, never seen this type before.Dunlop 28X 1 3/8 OR 28 x 1 1/2 B-5 section Westwood rims but wider and a little more flat. Hope these come out well.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Early Raleigh Tourist D.L.1. rims, Mighty Strange!! posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 10/26/2000 at 4:35:41 PM
Well, A standard 28 X 1 1/2 tire fits and will work but you cannot see the tire when on the bicycle. I will look into this and post my findings here.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Great British Bike Weekend posted by: Michael McGettigan/Trophy Bikes on 10/17/2000 at 12:11:04 PM
Greetings: just a reminder that the Great British Bike Weekend returns to Philadelphia April 6,7 & 8.
There will be rides (everyday) rallies&picnicks (saturday) the infamous Bike&Pub Crawl (saturday)and more!
For more info, email mcget@aol.com.







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Gears posted by: Keith on 10/17/2000 at 9:28:47 AM
Now that I've been riding them for a few years, I find that for most conditions a 46 x 22 (78"/58.5"/43.9") works best for me on a DL-1 roadster with a 3-speed SA AW, while a 46 x 20 (79.7"/59.8"/44.8") works best for me on a Sports (46 x 21 is a close second (75.9"/56.9"/42.7"). I've tried rear cogs ranging from 18 to 24 on several bikes. What works best for you?


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Gears posted by three speeds on 10/17/2000 at 10:00:37 AM
I use 26 x 1 3/8 wheels with 38 by 24 teeth with a 3-speed
hub. It seems as though virtually all streets are upgrades, downgrades and hills. On all upgrades I use middle gear, all downgrades high gear, and hills low gear.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Gears posted by jeff on 10/17/2000 at 5:02:52 PM
i use a 46x17 with a fw 4 speed and a 46x19 with a 3 speed with 26"x1 3/8" tires.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Gears posted by Pual MN on 10/17/2000 at 8:42:01 PM
My gearing changes with the seasons. I'm always on 28 inch wheels. The winter bike has 46 x 21t as the lungs can only assimulate just so much oxygen at ten degrees or lower. The summer bike starts with a 20t and gets switched for an 18t in late spring, by this time it needs a bit of cleaning and such anyway

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Gears posted by Bill on 10/19/2000 at 11:26:17 AM
48 X 24 AW hub with a 26" Raleigh Sports
42 X 22 S5.2 hub with 700C wheels Dunelt
47 X 22 FG 4 speed with 27" wheels Raleigh Lenton

I can't spin a much higher gear than this beyond 150
rpm, and this is enough to go with traffic on city
streets.