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Archived: English Roadsters







AGE / VALUE:   20" Dunelt posted by: MP on 11/13/2000 at 11:05:10 AM
Looking for information on a 20" Dunelt youth bike. It has gold decals on a blue frame with a touch of white on the fenders. It has cottered cranks and front rod brake. How do I establish the age of this quaint little cruiser?


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   20 posted by ChristopherRobin on 11/14/2000 at 7:17:54 AM
If it has a Sturmey-Archer 3 speed hub you can look on the hub and see the date stamp. This tells when the hub and most likely the bicycle was made. If this is a single speed then you are out of luck. This was made by Raleigh Industries Ltd, of Nottingham, England Dunelt was a name made up by Raleigh for the B- grade line of bicycles.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   20 posted by MP on 11/14/2000 at 7:47:02 PM
It is a single speed. When you say I'm "out of luck", do you mean that I cannot establish the date of manufacture or do you mean I spent my money unwisely? Is the B in "B-line" mean Bad choice--like a "B-movie"? Are they worth anything at all or should I "B" selective as to which charity I donate it to?

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   20 posted by Wings on 11/14/2000 at 10:41:09 PM
It is easier to establish a date on the SA 3 speed hub.
Since you have a one speed it is harder to determine the date. What kind of one speed hub is it? Coaster brake? A coaster brake has an arm that is held to the frame. Since you indicated it was a kids bike I think it would natural for it to have one speed. I am not familiar with the brand (I have limited knowledge of English bikes.). However, what does the bike do for you? I think that is what gives your real sense of value. I have a Huffy Dill Pickle -- I don't know why, but I think it is cool. It is all green with the ribs in the chain guard that look like a pickle. It is a kids bike that is really different and I like it! To someone else -- perhaps they could care less of the "Dill Pickle." I wish I could be of more help with your make of bike -- perhaps another person here (with knowledge that I do not have) will be able to help more! B = Bargain, Best Buy, Beautifly, Bouncy, Bountiful, Baudacious, Bocu!

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   20 posted by sam on 11/15/2000 at 4:12:12 PM
Eat a pickel - ride a cycle--I love it!

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   20 posted by ChristopherRobin on 11/15/2000 at 5:18:52 PM
When I said out of luck I meant there is no date stamp on the single speed coaster brake hub. A kids bike would likely have a coaster brake that is true. B grade means a Raleigh made bike that does not have the Raleigh name and heron decals. A fine little bicycle, just not the finest that Raleigh made. I do not think you got taken. I'd hang it up somewhere and enjoy looking at it. These are not valuable antiques or anything. Most of the time we do not see these pop up, at least you see a ladies frame adult bike before you see a kids bike or a mens frame adult bike. Give it to somebody who can use it, someone who is less fortunate.






AGE / VALUE:   '55 INVICTA posted by: jamie on 11/12/2000 at 10:37:09 AM
I am restoring my mom's '55 Invicta bike for her as a christmas present. Does anyone know where I can get any info or parts for it? Any help would be greatly appreciated.







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:    Two Hercules Bikes posted by: Ben on 11/11/2000 at 7:20:54 PM
I picked up two Hercules bikes some time back. Both are black three speeds, and are in decent shape. One is a men's and the other is a ladies'. I know very little about these bikes and their worth. Are they popular and or valuable? Regardless, they are taking up too much room in my garage, so if anyone is interested, make me an offer.
Ben


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:    Two Hercules Bikes posted by Cam on 11/13/2000 at 9:20:48 AM
Just look under the English Roadster topic. You will find a lot of info and discussions on them.






AGE / VALUE:   David's story posted by: sam on 11/11/2000 at 7:15:42 PM
Hear's a neat story to check out,log on to www.rolexawards.com,then hit David Schweidenback.Be sure to hit "access the full project in text format"What a cool story!---sam







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Found answer posted by: Bruce on 11/11/2000 at 7:13:53 PM
I think I found the answer to my question on Sheldon's site,it looks like I had better keep the shift cable adjusted properly in order to have brake working properly.There is a lot of information on these sites I'm glad I came across "oldroads".







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Wanted information on DL1 posted by: Bruce on 11/11/2000 at 6:52:52 PM
Does anyone know what the TCW signifies on the S/A hub?







AGE / VALUE:   Looking for info. DL1 posted by: Bruce on 11/11/2000 at 6:50:01 PM
Does anyone know what TCW stands for on the S/A hub?


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Looking for info. DL1 posted by Warren on 11/11/2000 at 7:57:43 PM
TCW is a model prefix...go to www.sheldonbrown.com/sa-1935-8.html to download a picture of your hub...be patient. Lots of info at www.sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer.html.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Looking for info. DL1 posted by Warren on 11/11/2000 at 7:58:59 PM
TCW is a model prefix...go to www.sheldonbrown.com/sa-1935-8.html to download a picture of your hub...be patient. Lots of info at www.sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer.html.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Looking for info. DL1 posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 11/12/2000 at 9:54:00 AM
Tri coaster wide? tri is in 3 speed coaster as in coaster brake and W as in wide ratio. This is just a guess. there was a hub in the early days called the "Tricoaster" and this is a more recent version. Ask Sheldon he would know!






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Help on DL-1 posted by: Leon on 11/10/2000 at 4:46:23 PM
Where would I find a serial number on a late 70's DL-1? Also, I'm looking for a striker for a Lucas cyclometer. Would anybody out there have one for sale or know where I might look? Thanks!!!


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Help on DL-1 posted by Jon on 11/11/2000 at 5:37:52 AM
Look on the back of the seat tube just below the seat post bolt. It may be very faint because of thick paint. As for the Lucus striker, check around older bike shops, somebody has to have one just laying around in a parts drawer. Take a drawing of one with you and you migh get a reply like, "Oh yeah, I got a ton of those thingys! I was wondering what they were for." And if you need a drawing, email me.






MISC:   Raleigh 20 & Shimano hub posted by: Kimo on 11/10/2000 at 3:10:54 PM
Aloha,
I just wanted to write a bit about my Raleigh 20. I just got it back from the shop and the latest addition, the Shimano Nexus 7 speed hub is really terrific. Shifting effortlessly, the only dilemma I have now is getting a small enough sprocket for it. I put on a 22 tooth, but it still has the granny gear to end all granny gears. But it is great. It works exceptionally smoothly. The brake is excellent and yesterday in the rain it worked perfectly with a full load. The brakes that come with it are okay at best and now I feel safer with it. The ability to stop on a dime is essential in New York City traffic. My Raleigh Tourist needed a coaster brake addition before I could use it as a regular commuter and the 20 definitely is better with the roller brake. I have a basket on the front, a Milk Crate on the back and I find that it can carry too much stuff. Yesterday I had to carry a bunch of costumes out to Brooklyn and was able to take the subway for part of the journey and then cycle the mile or so to the studio. On the way back I opted to not take the subway and cross the East River via the Bridge. For Lights I have a new German dynamo, headlight and rear light which work so well I use them during the day too. The Primo Comet tires are on the twitchy side and as the weather worsens I'm likely to go back to wider tires. I have a Brooks 66 saddle, which is the best. I wonder about Sheldon's suggested of a suspended front fork (Haro?) , and I may opt for it. All in all it now has a sporty feel and is totally practical as a commuter. In a questionable neighborhood, I take the seat off, collapse the frame, and take it nearly apart. And leave it locked in a heap. The Hub is worth something so here's hoping that it doesn't disappear. Sheldon was right, it is an interesting bicycle. It also is small enough so no one complains when I bring it indoors (boy, do they frown if I try to bring the DL-1 inside), it fits in elevators very neatly. The frame needed some adjustment to fit that hub. But after going with the 5 speed SA hub for about 340 miles , there's no question that the Shimano is far superior.


   RE:MISC:   Raleigh 20 & Shimano hub posted by WIngs on 11/10/2000 at 10:28:54 PM
My 2o has a 46 chain ring--if that is what you have then you would have the following gear inches:
1st = 26
4th (direct drive) = 42
7th = 65
The above are computed with an approximate wheel size. That setup would be perfect for where I live and I have been thinking of putting a Nexus 7 on my 20. I have a Nexus wheel set on one of my other bikes and it has the expander brakes (I think) on both wheels. Is that what you are using? The Shimmano hub brakes that usually come with the Nexus? That would certainly solve the poor brake problem my 20 has. Are you using a brake on the front wheel also? What? I would appreciate ideas on good brakes before I start building brake bridges for mine.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Raleigh 20 & Shimano hub posted by Wings on 11/10/2000 at 10:45:07 PM
Approximate gear inches for that 20:
18 tooth cog: 1st = 32; 4th = 51; 7th = 79.
16 tooth cog 1st = 36; 4th = 58; 7th = 89.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Raleigh 20 & Shimano hub posted by Kimo on 11/11/2000 at 7:14:14 AM
The rear brake is the roller or expander type that came with the Nexus. At first it did not work well with the 20šs original Weinman brake lever, but after trading it for a mountain bike lever, it works better. The brake itself is great for a rear wheel, relatively stiff, but it grips and will stop the wheel when you need it. Išve kept on the long reach original Weinman brake on the front wheel. As you know it is barely adequate. Išve kept it because Išve also left on the original chrome fenders and finding something to fit over it all has been tricky. But I need the fenders to keep dry and clean. Thanks for the gear inches info. Be prepared to do some grinding and bending to get that hub fitted, but I recommend it. Next step for me is to consider changing the front fork, fenders, brake etc. I also would like to change out the stem and handlebars, but they will wait till I get more info about the front fork.

   RE:MISC:   Raleigh 20 & Shimano hub posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 11/11/2000 at 8:39:10 AM
I don't think that a Raleigh Dl1 would fit in an elevator but I will have to try it sometime! Glad to hear you are enjoying the 20

   RE:RE:MISC:   Raleigh 20 & Shimano hub posted by Norman F. Birnberg on 11/11/2000 at 1:16:22 PM
I just acquired a Raleigh 20.

I've decided to upgrade mine by installing a fixed gear/singlespeed hub instead of a Shimano Nexus 7 since I already have one installed on my full-sized Raleigh Superbe. That one has 700C wheels and drum brakes. Its a cool-looking bike.

The Raleigh 20 will also have alloy rims and a set of new tires as part of the upgrade. It should make for a very nice commuter bike by the time the local bike shop is finished with the upgrade. Raleighs lend themselves quite nicely to being made into modern bikes without a lot of money. And you still keep the charm of the Nottingham frame!
Norman

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Raleigh 20 & Shimano hub posted by Wings on 11/13/2000 at 12:32:48 AM
Why would you go to a single speed hub?

   RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Raleigh 20 & Shimano hub posted by Norman F. Birnberg on 11/13/2000 at 10:58:50 PM
Wings, I went for a fixed gear/singlespeed hub for two reasons:

1)I reduce the weight of the bike and have a chance to be able to learn what riding a fixed gear bike (I can't coast on it) is like and I also have a singlespeed side for the descents and to get me home when I'm tired.

2)I also save money making it into a one-speed since I already have a full-sized Raleigh Superbe with the Shimano Nexus 7 speed hub as I mentioned earlier.

The Raleigh 20 with its horizontal dropouts is an excellent candidate for conversion to a one-speed, particularly as a fixed gear setup. Sheldon Brown mentions one of his Raleigh 20s is a fixed gear hot-rodder on his website and you gotta check out that hot red racing baby!!!

Norman "Could Like Riding A Fixed Gear" Birnberg

   RE:MISC:   Raleigh 20 & Shimano hub posted by ChristopherRobin on 11/19/2000 at 10:08:09 AM
Everyone meet at the restaurant and we will converge on Kimo's place with our rod brake Raleigh D.L.1.'s We can carry them up the stairs, down the stairs, in the elevator, in the yard and surround the place astride our huge bicycles with little trumpets.
(Just kidding Kimo!)






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Help in identifying bike please? posted by: retro rider on 11/10/2000 at 2:18:59 AM
Last week I bought an old Raleigh at a garage sale here in New Zealand. Can anyone help me identify/date it please? Is there any way of finding out its original colours? It looks like it has the numbers 3374 AU on the seat tube. It has unusual front suspension - a cantilever rocker type, similar to early motorcycles (or a "modern" Harley FLSTS Springer). The only visible marking on the front suspension is the word "Webb" in italics on a chrome bottom bracket. The bike has many black paint coats on it, with white mudguards. It has a coaster rear hub. There is no chainguard, and it looks like no provision for fitting one. It has an unusual (to me) alloy centre stand marked "Orion" very similar in design to a motorcycle centre stand. Since buying it for NZ$5 I have been riding it to the shops and the river with my kids - a lot more comfortable than modern bikes! Thanking you, retro rider


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Help in identifying bike please? posted by Grant on 11/11/2000 at 4:09:59 PM
There is a list of serial numbers on this site that can be used
to identify the year of a Raleigh. Your serial number does not
correspond to any of them unfortunately. Have a look at the list
and check your number again. You can find it by going to the white
menu at the top of the page and clicking "Serial Number Chart: Raleigh".

Your bike probably had a chain guard. They were often held on by brackets
that clamped around the tubes, so no holes or brackets would show if it has
been removed. The more expensive models had welded on brackets.

Webb was a well known English maker of motorcycle forks in the '20's and '30's.
They supplied forks to many motorcycle manufacturers.
They may have made bicycle forks as well, or someone could have adapted them from
a lightweight motorcycle.

If you remove the wheels and fenders you may find a patch of the original colour
that was overlooked during the repaint process. If you really go the whole hog and
strip the paint you may find the original finish complete with decals underneath.

Your best bet is to find an old bike shop or bike mechanic and show him your find.
An experienced mechanic can probably identify it by sight and tell you more than you
need to know about it!






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   dumpster diving posted by: ted on 11/9/2000 at 7:20:16 PM
I found a 1970 Black Dunelt in the garbage today. It had about twenty five years of grime on it, but after a thorough cleaning it seems to be in excellent shape, very few scratches, rust, etc... Even the removable hooded headlamp fired up with new d-cell batteries. I am a bike messenger/enthusiast. And would like to find out more about this model, is it worth the time and effort to restore, or were Dunelts second rate junkers as someone suggested?


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   dumpster diving posted by red on 11/9/2000 at 10:37:59 PM
Any bike that works is worth something. And these days any bike with S/A parts is worth a lot more than it used to be worth. As far as restoration goes, it isn't worth the effort. I say clean it, lube it, adjust it, and then enjoy it.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   dumpster diving posted by ChristopherRobin on 11/11/2000 at 8:41:01 AM
The best thing is that it was FREE! Right? Welcome to the club.






AGE / VALUE:   Canadian Raleigh Sports posted by: ChristopherRobin on 11/9/2000 at 4:37:59 PM
I noticed a few odd things about the brown Canadian Raleigh Sports I have. There is always a little support post between the chain stays right behind the bottom bracket. This is there for strength and it is part of every diamond frame bike and not just on a Raleigh either but most of them. Not so on this bike! It is not there and they have the rear mudguard attached to this special adaptor for the standard clip. This rear mudguard clip attaches to the post on a Sports, Sprite, Supurbe ,DL1 e.t.c. I thought it was hiding under the kickstand and I was surprised when I pulled off the kickstand to not see it. The bike has bearly been ridden, is practically new. I wonder if it will break in the future, I wonder if they Raleigh Canada ever had a problem with these breaking there. I would think the rear end would whip around a bit and put stress on the chain stay. Also the decal on the rounded style chainguard is a piece of plastic film with the words "Raleigh Sports" on it in Brown. I haven't seen this style decal before. Also strange is the extra chainguard support underneath the bottombracket. It is a yellowish colored bare metal without any primer or paint on it. It stands out like a sore thumb and is cheap, rust resistant metal. It is not seen unless you seak it out or have the machine turned upside down on its bars. The rear rim has chrome that is shot, but the front cleaned up nicely. Somebody removed the Raleigh bracket and put on this horrible reflector bracket and I immediately tossed it out and put on a proper bracket. This does not have Raleigh's brakes rather Weinmann's and I polished these and they work great. This is strange not seeing this support post! It is always there dispite whatever brand or make you find.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Canadian Raleigh Sports posted by Warren on 11/9/2000 at 6:12:41 PM
Hi Christopher...yeah, the Canadian Sports were made in a plant in Quebec I believe. They were modelled after the Brit Sports but were not of the same quality. They came in brown and dark blue...often with cotterless cranks and alloy bar stems. The decals were usually on top of the clear coat and I don't think they ever came with the Raleigh light bracket on the stem. I also believe this was the beginning of the end of Raleigh as we like to know it. I think the Canada experiment preceeded the move to the pacific rim...and that's all she wrote. Sigh!.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Canadian Raleigh Sports posted by ChristopherRobin on 11/11/2000 at 8:44:10 AM
This has cottered cranks with the Raleigh heron head standard steel crank without the little V's in the middle. (The newer style crank set.) The Raleigh Canada bikes had the standard Raleigh lamp bracket. I pulled these out of the shops in Canada.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   2 Raleighs posted by: Bill Arthur on 11/9/2000 at 8:04:54 AM
I have two Raleigh 3-speeds, a man's and a woman's, that were purchased in 1970. They haven't been ridden in years and have been in a storage shed. They would need some cleaning up, but I think could be made rideable if anyone is interested. I am wondering if anyone is interested in buying these bicycles and if so, how I would get them to that person. Thanks.







AGE / VALUE:   Indian Scout on ebay posted by: sam on 11/8/2000 at 6:40:06 PM
Ran across this bike while checking e-bay,#490085223,check it out,the chaing gard and sproket are the same style as my Hercules.(herculer or raleigh ?)---sam


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Indian Scout on ebay posted by ChristopherRobin on 11/9/2000 at 5:11:16 PM
Hey,I like it! The decal on the chainguard is cool! Long feathers in his head dress.






FOR SALE:   E-BAY SunTour (Sturmey?) 3-speed hub posted by: Rudgematch on 11/7/2000 at 2:46:20 PM
Check out E-bay Item # 1100283865
A NOS 36-hole 3-speed hub... is this the one Frank Berto says was the SunTour-labeled Sturmey?

It's cheap!


   RE:FOR SALE:   E-BAY SunTour (Sturmey?) 3-speed hub posted by Bill Putnam on 11/9/2000 at 1:44:32 PM
I saw a Sun Tour 3-speed hub on a Chinese Raleigh copy.
I dissassembled, cleaned, and reassembled the hub, and
although the design is identical to the Sturmey, I don't
believe it's just a re badged Sturmey hub. The shape of
the parts such as the bearing cones and labyrinth seals
as well as the internal parts are all slightly different
than a Sturmey AW. I didn't try to see if the parts were
interchangable. The hub did look to be well made.
Did Frank Berto say that Sturmey produced these in England
for SunTour? (I have The Dancing Chain on my Christmas
wish list but it's not Christmas yet!)