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Archived: English Roadsters







FOR SALE:   1970 Black Raleigh Three Speed posted by: Mike Ober on 11/24/2000 at 10:20:49 PM
1970 Black Raliegh ladies three speed. Great condition, runs like a charm. No noticable scrapes or dents. All orignial parts including, leather seat. WHAT IS THIS BIKE WORTH? I would like to sell it for a fair price.


   RE:FOR SALE:   1970 Black Raleigh Three Speed posted by red on 11/27/2000 at 10:37:42 PM
My friend phil says it is worth $7.50. I say it is worth $42.83. Better appraisals are possible provided we have a more detailed description.

   RE:RE:FOR SALE:   1970 Black Raleigh Three Speed posted by Another Bill on 11/28/2000 at 11:49:59 AM
Looks like Red doesn't get out much.

   RE:RE:RE:FOR SALE:   1970 Black Raleigh Three Speed posted by red on 11/29/2000 at 1:50:30 AM
Just trying to do my part to answer the unanswerable.






AGE / VALUE:   1970 Black Raleigh Three Speed posted by: Mike Ober on 11/24/2000 at 10:20:49 PM
1970 Black Raliegh ladies three speed. Great condition, runs like a charm. No noticable scrapes or dents. All orignial parts including, leather seat. WHAT IS THIS BIKE WORTH? I would like to sell it for a fair price.







FOR SALE:   Ladies Robin Hood posted by: Bruce on 11/23/2000 at 7:45:44 AM
For Sale: 69 Robin Hood, 3 spd,19inch frame,fresh tuneup/new tires-tubes,excellant mechanical shape, has 2 inch tear in seam on the saddle,dark green(bought it for my wife and had in shop etc. Unfortunately it turns out she only wants a bike with coaster brake.


   RE:FOR SALE:   Ladies Robin Hood posted by phil on 11/24/2000 at 6:44:20 AM
You might consider trying to find a Sturmey Archer AWC hub for the bike. It is a 3 speed with a coaster brake. I found one at a Goodwill Center ($15), a Ladies 1961 Sports. My daughter calls it her "Mary Poppins bike."

   RE:RE:FOR SALE:   Ladies Robin Hood posted by Albert on 11/24/2000 at 8:40:27 AM
The S/A 3-speed coaster brake models you are like to find used or disgarded would be the TCW series or a S3C. I don't think the AWC has been around long enough to find easily and for just a few dollars. Of course if you want the same freedom from the slipping out of gear hazzard offered by the AWC, could look for a roadster equiped with any of the Shimano several series of 3-speed/coaster hubs. None of them slip.

   RE:RE:FOR SALE:   Ladies Robin Hood posted by Albert on 11/24/2000 at 8:40:30 AM
The S/A 3-speed coaster brake models you are like to find used or disgarded would be the TCW series or a S3C. I don't think the AWC has been around long enough to find easily and for just a few dollars. Of course if you want the same freedom from the slipping out of gear hazzard offered by the AWC, could look for a roadster equiped with any of the Shimano several series of 3-speed/coaster hubs. None of them slip.

   RE:FOR SALE:   Ladies Robin Hood posted by Fred on 11/24/2000 at 8:03:12 PM
Dislike of non-coaster brake bikes is almost universal with the ladies. I get at least a dozen requests each season to either supply a single speed bike, or modify their bikes with a coaster brake. Some of the ladies will drag their feet when stopping rather than use their lever brakes. I never have had a man ask me to replace a 3 speed hub with a single speed coaster brake hub. What is the significance of this. Not much, but it is interesting that men accept lever brakes and women do not. I had one lady, who is English request that I change her coaster brakes to lever brakes. Being English she learned on bike with lever brakes. Women really are from Venus, and men truly from from Mars is really true

   RE:RE:FOR SALE:   Ladies Robin Hood posted by Oscar on 11/25/2000 at 7:31:02 AM
Men will trust a machine whether it works or not. Women trust their feet. (Women live longer.)

   RE:RE:RE:FOR SALE:   Ladies Robin Hood posted by ChristopherRobin on 11/25/2000 at 9:41:29 AM
Hey, he's right! How many girls love to jam on the coaster brake and do skid marks with the bike's rear wheel? This is a male thing isn't it?

   RE:RE:RE:RE:FOR SALE:   Ladies Robin Hood posted by red on 11/27/2000 at 10:46:08 PM
Don't underestimate today's youth! I recall several of my female neighbors performing such rituals when I was growing up (in the BMX era - back when most BMXs were coaster brake) Speaking of which, am I the youngest person here (25)?

   RE:FOR SALE:   Ladies Robin Hood posted by RudgeMatch on 11/28/2000 at 1:55:37 PM
It could have something to do with grip strength as well.
Some women may not feel they can operate the brakes adequately, or maybe I'm just a sexist. Vive le difference!

   RE:RE:FOR SALE:   Ladies Robin Hood posted by Arian on 11/29/2000 at 12:54:28 PM
I am female and prefer a coaster brake because I would rather not die when it is sleeting out I have to get around on my bike. One of my first bikes was a BMX with coaster brake, and yes, we did go for the skid marks, or at least I did until I lost my front teeth doing dumb things. Had to go look for them on the street the next day so I would not be out my tooth fairy money. Now I would never do the skid for fun because adults have to buy their own tires.






AGE / VALUE:   1963? Raleigh NIB worth? posted by: Kevin on 11/22/2000 at 9:01:08 AM
My friend has a raleigh bicycle. He bought it new still in the box(partially assembled)from and old dealer in new england. On the rear wheel has 63 5. Is that 1963? It's black,has metal long hand brakes. Is a 3 speed if I remember correctly. Just getting info for him.It's mint.
Any info would be appreciated. Thanks..


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   1963? Raleigh NIB worth? posted by Grant on 11/22/2000 at 8:55:14 PM
If it absolutely mint, totally original, still in the box without a
scratch on it, a Raleigh of that model and year is worth $16,888.50.
Provided it is Raleigh Bronze Green. If it is black it is worth $2416.22.
If it has one mark or speck of dust it is worth
$348.12. 2 specks and it is worth $277.09.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   1963? Raleigh NIB worth? posted by Grant on 11/22/2000 at 9:09:09 PM
Hope you realise I am kidding, trying to immitate the fanatic
sports card price guides?

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   1963? Raleigh NIB worth? posted by phil on 11/24/2000 at 6:36:40 AM
The bike may not be worth quite that much, but the box is worth a whole bunch.

Seriously, if the bike is that nice, it's probably worth a coupla hundred. Better yet, just ride it.






AGE / VALUE:   Dynohub battery tube, two diffrent style decals posted by: ChristopherRobin on 11/21/2000 at 7:32:37 AM
Take a look at E-bay item #504895395 Sturmey-Archer Bat box. This seller has a ton of bicycle parts! This is the battery D.B.U.tube for use with the Sturmey-Archer dynohub and it is interesting to note the diffrent decal. The one I have has the lightning bolts says "Dyno Luxe"







WANTED:   Raleigh Twenty Chainguard and Carrier Bag posted by: Wendell on 11/21/2000 at 5:51:02 AM
Still looking for a Raleigh Twenty Folding Bike Chainguard. Bronze Olive color, also need the rear carrier bag (blue/green plaid). Please e-mail with what you have. Thanks!







AGE / VALUE:   S/A holding device posted by: Albert on 11/21/2000 at 1:14:36 AM
A question for the planetary community: I need advice on how to hold a hub that has been removed from the rim so the the right hand ball cup can be removed. Any suggestions?


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   S/A holding device posted by Bill Putnam on 11/21/2000 at 6:47:38 AM
In my experience, after unsuccessful attemps at holding the
hub in wood blocks in a vise, then with an automobile
oil filter wrench, I just lace up the drive side of the
hub in a rim with some old spokes. Doesn't take long to
lace up the wheel, and distributes the torque as intended.

Sturmey Archer shows a tool for remove the right hand ball
cup, but I've never found a source for them, and have
relied on a hammer and punch, which makes getting the ball
cup off difficult unless the hub is secure. If I did have
the wrench, the oil filter wrench might do the trick.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   S/A holding device posted by ChristopherRobin on 11/21/2000 at 5:08:13 PM
Ah yes those marvelous,wonderful Raleigh/Sturmey Archer tools! Scarce as hens teeth they are. Keep looking.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   S/A holding device posted by Jon on 11/23/2000 at 8:39:33 AM
A plumber's pipe vise will do the job. It has 4 sets of teeth instead of 2 like a regular vise. But consider wrapping hub with rubber gasket material to prevent gouging the hub and don't overtighten. One quick rap with a blunt chisel at the right angle will loosen the cup. And if you don't know any plumbers, you can probably pick a vise up at a used tool store for about $25.00. (probably less than what you'd have to pay for that little SA tool)

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   S/A holding device posted by Randy on 11/24/2000 at 9:37:22 AM
I made a pair of steel blocks that can be held in a vise, bored through to clear the ballcups and with steel pins in a pattern to pick up the spoke holes (every other one--9 pins for the 36-hole hubs and 10 pins for the 40-hole hubs.)

I've also made a driver holder (for removing sprockets from those threaded drivers) and LH and RH cup wrenches based on the drawings in the S-A manual.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   S/A holding device posted by ChristopherRobin on 11/25/2000 at 8:55:54 AM
I have the driver holder and a few other tools and I am still looking to find and buy the others






AGE / VALUE:    TCW interchangeability with S3C posted by: Albert on 11/21/2000 at 1:04:13 AM
A question for the planetary community: Is it possible to replace the internals of a TCW series hub with those from a S3C? One of my machines has a TCW and as many of you know this hub will lose its braking ability if the shift control is out of adjustment. The S3C is a much safer hub as it will provide braking even if out of adjustment. I do prefer a 3-speed/brake hub in wet weather. Needless-to-say, none of my Shimano 3-speed/brake hubs suffer from a no-stop problem.







AGE / VALUE:   Dunelt pedals are messing with my mind! posted by: ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 11/20/2000 at 5:29:14 PM
Latest bike is a mens Triumph made by Raleigh. It has full ball bearing pedals and they say "Dunelt" on the rubbers. What has me looking and shaking my head and staring at these is because Phillips had pedals just like these. (with Phillips on the rubber blocks) Now Raleigh made the Dunelt and Triumph brands and Phillips was a seperate company with diffrent looking bikes and parts that well, you could tell they went to a Phillips.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:Phillips style/  Dunelt pedals are messing with my mind! posted by ChristopherRobin on 11/21/2000 at 6:47:01 AM
So what probably happened was that when Raleigh bought up Phillips they had Dunelt stamped in the pedal rubber blocks and the equipment that formerly made Phillips pedals also made Dunelt pedals. This must not have gone on very long because Raleigh cheapened everything and they went to a sintered bearing arrangement in order to save money. I've never seen these pedals with Dunelt on them but what does that mean? All this takes a long while to unravel.

Anybody have any comments on how to keep the blocks from turning around?






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Pashley... posted by: Mike on 11/20/2000 at 7:02:57 AM
Has anyone had experience with Pashley bicycles? Particularly the High Head Roadster? What do you think?

Mike


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Pashley... posted by BillG on 11/21/2000 at 6:38:11 AM
There are a lot of Pashley discussions in the archives

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Pashley... posted by Jorge on 11/22/2000 at 9:38:16 PM
I bought a Pashley 3 speed “28"” High Head Roadster, the Guv’nor as Pashley
calls it, and I really think its a great bike. I don't know why all the fuzz about
Raleigh’s when you can get still get a Real English Roadster and its worth
every cent or shilling for that matter, and best of all, its still “Made in England”.
Don't get me wrong, i love those DL1 Raleigh’s, but the Pashley gets darn close,
and for a every day bike in the city, you cant beat it. So what if it doesn’t have
rod brakes, they do look beautiful but in today’s traffic there is nothing better
than hub brakes anyway, and finally, yes there is some things i didn't like;
the plastic contemporary frame pump, which i replaced by a Zéfal Lapize,
i didn't particularly care about the brooks B130, also replaced by a Honey B66,
and I never was very fond of full chaincases, i prefer the hockey style,
(full chaincases are for trousers, I ride in shorts) but the problem is that the front
sprocket is of a genetic design and I’m looking to replace it by a stylish Raleigh
pattern. This Last British Roadster really beats those Genetic Mountain Bikes
with frames made probably in Taiwan and with components made in in any one
of a dozen countries and assembled somewhere else. I would highly
recommend it, especially if you can get one with Sturmey Archer set-up








AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Cranks posted by: Dale Oswald on 11/20/2000 at 6:00:01 AM
Does anybody know what were the longest crank arms Raleigh made? From my days in a good Raleigh shop (George Rennie, Rochester NY, 1973-5) I seem to remember seeing seven+" listed in a parts catalog, but that's probably what my bike already has.

Even though my Superbe has a cyclo two-speed for a low gear of 39" (48/24*26*0.75), with the shorter cranks that were common in the 60s it's still tough on the knees to climb hills. But I won't put non-Raleigh parts on the bike. So if they made longer cranks, it'd be an option for me.

The other option, of course, is a smaller front sprocket, but my guess is that they probably weren't available with the longest cranks.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Cranks posted by Albert on 11/20/2000 at 8:43:30 AM
If your not a stickler for authenticity, try replacxing the steel cottered crank with an alloy cotterless crank from a discarded derailleur equiped cycle. I have converted a Raleigh Sports in this manner by using a 175mm set. I removed the outer chainring and using only the 40T. I have found that a 40T chainring and an 18 or 19 tooth rear cog provide rather nice gearing. And needless to say a cotterless crank is much easier to service. Should you go ahead with this converion, retain and use the cuurent Raleigh bottom-bracket cups. You may fing the the adjustable cup will have to be turned considerable further-in.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Cranks posted by Albert on 11/20/2000 at 8:44:23 AM
If your not a stickler for authenticity, try replacxing the steel cottered crank with an alloy cotterless crank from a discarded derailleur equiped cycle. I have converted a Raleigh Sports in this manner by using a 175mm set. I removed the outer chainring and using only the 40T. I have found that a 40T chainring and an 18 or 19 tooth rear cog provide rather nice gearing. And needless to say a cotterless crank is much easier to service. Should you go ahead with this converion, retain and use the cuurent Raleigh bottom-bracket cups. You may fing the the adjustable cup will have to be turned considerable further-in.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Cranks posted by Bill Putnam on 11/20/2000 at 9:36:56 AM
I have 46T and 48T chainrings on the same length Raleigh
cranks, not sure the exact length of the crank, but you
might try a 46T chainring to help a little. A 24T rear
sprocket is not original for Raleigh/Sturmey Archer as
they only went up to 22T, so if you're not a stickler
for rear sprocket originality, you can modify an old
Shimano freehub sprocket by grinding off and shaping the
internal splines and fit this on your hub. I have one
Raleigh with a 46/28 combination and AW hub, giving a 32"
low gear, and this is adequate for my needs. You should
be able to find an old Shimano 32T freehub sprocket, giving
a 28" low gear, or if you want to go to an FW four speed
you could drop this down to a 24.9" low gear.

Sturmey advised,if I recall, keeping at least a 2:1 ratio
of chainring to sprocket to limit torque on the hub, but
after many miles of hard use and lower gearing with the
46/28 combination I've had no problems.

Longer cranks may give you other knee problems due to the
added amount of flexing of the knee.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Cranks posted by Wings on 11/20/2000 at 10:33:54 PM
The last comment on longer cranks is very true! Even if the rage in BMX bikes is to have long cranks!
I have found that I feel a difference in my knees of just a change from 170 to 175. It seems like it throws my knees out much more than 5mm! It also changes my spin! I find that there may be an adjustment period to a longer crank and if you have long uphills to do perhaps keeping your current crank size but lowering your gear inches would be a better way to go! Experiment!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Cranks posted by Dale Oswald on 11/29/2000 at 2:02:22 PM
More info and discussion on my original note. Regarding authenticity, yes and no. Mostly to the point of keeping it true to period. In other words, if I could have walked into my Raleigh dealer and bought the part or had it installed in 1969, it's ok. Something like the crank... no I wouldn't replace the Raleigh crank with the 170mm TA that I own, even though it's from the same period. On the other hand, I'd like to find a Simplex barcon from that era, because it would be closer to the age of the bike than the Suntour and I refuse to bend over to a top- or down-tube shifter, as was commonly used on 3-by-N conversions.

Regarding crank length, my legs are fairly long and experience on multiple bikes tells me that 175 or longer is good for me. BTW I still haven't measured the current (original) cranks to see what I have. I think the answer is the smaller chainring, but the crank arms are stamped on so I despair finding long arms with a smaller chainring.






AGE / VALUE:   FS: 1950s Women's 26" Humber $175 + shipping. posted by: Kevin C. on 11/19/2000 at 5:41:18 PM
Unusual, untouched 1950s 26-inch Humber for sale. Old repaint; three-speed with massive rear Dynohub; dry storage battery tube; original headlight; fully enclosed chaincase; original pedals; cable brakes; leather saddle; original fenders; unique "double rod" front fork with lock mechanism (no key); good old Humber headbadge; rims good; needs new cables. Bike is in Lafayette, Indiana.







MISC:   Sun shots posted by: Fred on 11/19/2000 at 6:02:09 AM
I'm not going to complain that its too hot here in W. central Florida but two of my neighbors had tires go boom while sitting in the sun. In both cases the tubes came out under the tire bead. I had mounted these tires a couple of years ago. One of the bikes, A Raleigh, suffered from under inflation of the tires which allowed the tube to escape confinement. I am continually reminding folks here to keep their tires properly inflated. The other bike, a Schwinn 10 speed has the wrong tires on it. I instructed the owner to go to the Schwinn store and make sure he got the right tires but when I mounted them I carelessly pressurized them without noticing that the tire was loose on the rim. I should have been warned when I was able to mount them easily using only my hands. After blowing out one tube I took great care in centering the tires on the rim and they were trouble free for 4 years. I mount about 20 tires every season and its about to start.


   RE:MISC:   Sun shots posted by ChristopherRobin on 11/19/2000 at 10:33:24 AM
Perhaps if you let out some air before you go in a building and then come out and put some air in before you ride off. Does that sound stupid to you? I dunno, It would be a bit of a bother to have to do that. It is a bit difficult for me to feel too sorry for you since I am freezing my tail in Michigan.






AGE / VALUE:   Trek carrying bike shop has 26 X 1 3/8 tires. cool ones! posted by: ChristopherRobin on 11/18/2000 at 2:09:55 PM
When it comes to 26 X 1 3/8 E-A 3 tires for Raleigh Sports e.t.c. Check with the Trek selling store first. They have a wonderful tire that they carry







AGE / VALUE:   Careful what you wish for, you might get it. posted by: ChristopherRobin on 11/18/2000 at 12:16:22 PM
The bicycle gods heard my plea today. The 2 Schwinn Travelers with the cool fork were too ratty and I was about to leave when somebody came in with a truck load of bikes and there were more at the house so it was field trip time! I braved the cold and dodged the two chained up Rotwielers and plucked it out of the 50 junk bikes. A ladies Schwinn Traveler with the locking fork, 1954 alloy A.W. 3 speed, Miller light with an intact glass lens. Complete bike and not so tatty. Question: Does the key ever come out of the fork when it is locked? I have the key in it and it is brass and says "Arnold Schwinn and Co." and it turns (lock works) but it won't come out. I didn't want to force it. Pretty bike but too heavy. I'm looking forward to tinkering with it this winter.Cloverleaf crank. If only it was a mens! Out of all the bikes it was a Traveler! There are no Rotweilers on e-bay at least.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Careful what you wish for, you might get it. posted by Grant on 11/19/2000 at 5:51:43 AM
The key is supposed to come out. If it is stuck and won't come
out take it to a locksmith. They don't charge much and you sure
don't want to break the key or damage anything.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Careful what you wish for, you might get it. posted by ChristopherRobin on 11/19/2000 at 9:40:02 AM
Ah Ha! I thought so! Thanks.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Careful what you wish for, you might get it. posted by sam on 11/19/2000 at 6:11:52 PM
The Question of stuck keys came up on the Schwinn Forum a few days ago,seems like I remember Tom Findley(could be misstaken)(I apologize Tom if wrong) said he had the same problem,Said to gently pull the key while locking and turning the fork.seems the lock will only work in one spot.I tryed to find the original post but looks like Schwinn don't like being bad-mounthed on there nickel.--sam

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Careful what you wish for, you might get it. posted by Ray on 11/20/2000 at 11:47:33 AM
I remember that same posting on the Schwinn page. I also remember the person saying that the key was designed to only come out when the bike was locked and you could only lock it when the front wheel was turned a certain way but not straight. You cannot remove the key if the bike is unlocked, this is so you would not lose it.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Careful what you wish for, you might get it. posted by ChristopherRobin on 11/20/2000 at 5:15:02 PM
I like this kind of lock system. You turn the wheel to the right side(You are sitting on the bike) and it locks into place. I will try it again and take it to a locksmith if it won't come out.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Careful what you wish for, you might get it. posted by Grant on 11/21/2000 at 8:58:57 AM
If you are going to monkey around at least DON'T put any oil,
penetrating oil etc. in the lock. The rule is graphite only.
Oil or other substance will gum up the lock, if not right away
then after it has a chance to dry up.

WD 40 may not be too bad, it is nothing but kerosene in a can
and does not gum up so bad but is still not recommended. If you use
WD40 blow it out with compressed air and follow with powdered
graphite.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Careful what you wish for, you might get it. posted by ChristopherRobin on 11/21/2000 at 5:18:46 PM
I'm no locksmith and thankfully I won't need one as the key has come out and is working fine. There is some dirt though and that may have gotten in. I value,enjoy and trust your thoughts and advice but somebody once told me never to use graphite in a lock and anything that can gum up should be avoided as well. Perhaps I'm wrong about the graphite I just don't know. Anyway the key is a Yale and it is "made for Schwinn" it says . I have it dissembeld for cleaning and part replacement and the the headset's lower pressed in bearing cup is something I'm not going to find because it is extra long and has a hole in the side for the lock piece. But the rest of it and the bottom bracket parts should be no problem. I have Schwinn Traveller fever at the moment