OldRoads.com

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Archived: English Roadsters







WANTED:   RAF/AAF bicycle posted by: Joe DeFazio on 6/26/2000 at 1:19:48 PM
I've been searching for but havn't found a WW 2 era roadster as used on airfields in the UK. I guess they were Raleighs, they were definitly rod brake. In the few color photos I've found they appear painted RAF oive green. I'd really like to buy one in good - restorable condition.
Best Regards, Joe DeFazio, Master Sergeant, USAF.


   RE:WANTED:   RAF/AAF bicycle posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 6/26/2000 at 1:37:39 PM
Keep looking joe, but just not for bicycles but Motorcycles too. You will find something interesting sooner or later.

   RE:WANTED:   RAF/AAF bicycle posted by Matthew in the UK on 7/7/2000 at 1:17:06 PM
Joe rocking horse droppings are easier to find! The cycles were not always (or often) Raleighs they were Hercules BSA Triumph Phillips etc. Usually RAF blue grey not drab green. They were heavily built like carrier cycles with heavy chains and equipement. Keep searching my Dad, an ex-RAF man (an RAF VRT Sqdn Ldr. now) would like one too. Fly safe Matthew






MISC:   draisine redux 2000 posted by: Keith on 6/26/2000 at 7:21:39 AM
Over the weekend I bought one of those new "Mirco" flodable scooters. 6.5 pounds, welded aluminum, when folded it will easily fit in a backpack (or saddlebag!?). Call it a high-tech interpretation of an otherwise primative form. I rode it all around the neighborhood last night. Marvelous fun! And fast too. This morning I saw several news stories suggesting that they are a rage in Europe. If you get a chance, try one. Okay, I also rode my DL-1 this weekend, as well as the Paramount.


   RE:MISC:   draisine redux 2000 posted by jimW. on 6/27/2000 at 9:35:15 PM
Those little scooters are currently the hottest fad in Manhattan.
I live across the street from a sporting goods store. Every
time I walk past the place, there's a pile of scooter boxes on and
around the corner trash basket. How is it to ride a scooter
with those dinky little wheels, though? I wouldn't think they'd
handle bumps very well, I guess I must be wrong, though, as
fads that turn fatal usually happen here, and I haven't heard
of any deaths or maimings yet. I guess the fad hasn't reached
its peak her yet, as that is always indicated when a few people
are killed for them, and I haven't heard of that yet, either.

   RE:RE:MISC:   draisine redux 2000 posted by Keith on 6/28/2000 at 6:16:14 AM
The original design -- the "Razor" and its clones, are VERY low to the ground. There's basically no clearance (about 1 inch), so yes, if you hit a pothole or a bump bigger than a couple of inches, you risk a "header" or "cropper." Since I got mine, I've seen a second generation offered with more clearance. The wheels are 100mm -- larger than skates -- so they do run smoothly. Aside from the ground clearance problem they seem pretty safe and handle well. The brake actually works. An American company -- Xootr -- makes a really fine version (starting at $269), with an ultra-deluxe over-the-top model with a carbon fiber deck. I'm not making this up. Anyway, I've now ridden mine in Downtown Columbus, Ohio to get to a Subway for lunch, and I got there safely and much quicker than walking. Maybe I'll ask for a Xootr for my birthday this year.






WANTED:   Replacement pedal blocks needed posted by: Jerry Cleveland on 6/26/2000 at 5:50:15 AM
I need two pairs of new (or VG to EXC used) reflectorless rubber pedal blocks, square profile, 4 5/16 inches (11cm) long; I’ll buy complete pedals to get the pedal blocks if necessary. Can anyone recommend a source?


   RE:WANTED:   Replacement pedal blocks needed posted by Warren on 6/26/2000 at 4:15:50 PM
You'll need to identify the pedal axle diameter as 1/2" or 9/16" first...some older bike shops will have a stash of both sizes.

   RE:WANTED:   Replacement pedal blocks needed posted by Jerry Cleveland on 6/27/2000 at 5:14:00 AM
The problem is that most pedals have 4-inch blocks; I need 4 5/16-inch (11cm) blocks. I'm thinking that they are going to have to come from an overseas source, not Stateside, hence my posting in the English Roadsters discussion area. But thanks for your suggestion!






MISC:   Brazing Bosses posted by: Wings on 6/24/2000 at 12:08:29 AM
I have a bike I would like to have some bosses brazed on for V Brakes. My torching (Mepp) experience is up to sweating copper pipes. Is it possible to braze with some of the hotter bottled gases for do it yourselfers? Without going to a welder! Does anyone have any experience in this area? Suggestions? If I have to I would go to a welder, but I would rather do it myself. The frame is HI Tensile Steel. Thanks.


   RE:MISC:   Brazing Bosses posted by sam on 6/24/2000 at 11:50:03 AM
You cam get a small torch set for do-it-yourselfers,and I do mean small-the kit with both oxygen and acetylene bottles can be carried by hand.you might try welders supply in yellow pages or large auto parts centers.For a one time only job I would compair the cost against having it done at a radator shop.

   RE:MISC:   Brazing Bosses posted by Michael on 6/25/2000 at 2:49:00 AM
See
http://www.ihpva.org/Builders/
for some good advice on DIY brazing.

NB Brake bosses need to be aligned correcly
A good bike shop can do it for a few dollars. My LBS brazed some luggage rack eyelts for £10

   RE:MISC:   Brazing Bosses posted by Fred on 6/25/2000 at 6:20:40 AM
If you are determined to do it yourself you might want to check with the Eastwood Co., suppliers of tools and materials for the antique car hobby. Ordinary brazing requires high heat. You might want to look into low temperature brazing. I have used silver solder with good results in the past. The temperature is around 600 deg. F and the resultant joint is very strong if the gap between mating parts is small. None of these processes are easy with small parts. A friend of mine has a favorite saying when I complain about problems with things mechanical; "if it was easy, everyone would be doing it". Good luck

   RE:MISC:   Brazing Bosses posted by Sheldon Brown on 6/27/2000 at 6:23:32 PM
I do this with a cheapo Bernz-o-Matic propane/oxygen torch. This torch outfit uses bottles of compressed (not liquified) oxygen. I run Mapp gas instead of plain propane. This is adequate for this job.

I made a special fixture for brazing cantilever studs on, and have an article about it, with pictures, on the Web at:

http://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-fixture.html

   RE:MISC:   Brazing Bosses posted by Sheldon Brown on 6/27/2000 at 6:24:42 PM
I do this with a cheapo Bernz-o-Matic propane/oxygen torch. This torch outfit uses bottles of compressed (not liquified) oxygen. I run Mapp gas instead of plain propane. This is adequate for this job.

I made a special fixture for brazing cantilever studs on, and have an article about it, with pictures, on the Web at:

http://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-fixture.html






AGE / VALUE:   Hercules Falcon "club bike"? posted by: Warren on 6/23/2000 at 2:26:11 PM
Someone had recently posted that they had acquired a Hercules club bike. I also picked up a pre-Raleigh Hercules Falcon with a 3 cog rear hub and a "Herailleur" derailleur...(1st generation Huret?). The licence plate on the bike is '54...can anyone else help me with a possible date for this bike?


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Hercules Falcon posted by Fred on 6/23/2000 at 8:13:03 PM
Warren: I posted notes on my Hercules that has a flip-flop hub. Mine has a 3 speed freewheel and a fixed gear. The derailier is not a Huret though. The person I bought it from thought it was from the 1930's. Send me a complete description and I'll do the same. I am taking a lot of pictures of my bike at present and will send them when they are developed.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   The Reliance bicycle posted by: Al on 6/22/2000 at 10:27:55 PM
I just purchased several bicycles from an older gentleman, and as we were loading them into his truck(he even delivered them) he threw on a bike that I really didn't want.
It is in pretty rough shape, but I'm curious about it. The only markings left on it are "The Reliance" on the tube the seat post goes into, and on the front tube it says "The Reliance" and "Made in England"
It looks like a single speed. Can't find a serial # yet. Thanks for any info.







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Fun bikes to look at posted by: Keith on 6/22/2000 at 12:36:02 PM
Go look at these: Ebay 361634720 "Railton" and 363472618 "Gillot." The latter is compared to a Hetchins by the seller, who apparently is a serious collector. I want it, but won't bid on it -- I blew my bike budget for the year already.







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   New DL-1 brake pads posted by: Fred on 6/21/2000 at 3:00:07 AM
I installed brake pads on the front of my latest DL-1 yesterday. The pads were not the original style but seemed to fit OK. Initially I could hardly pull the lever but a little lube in the right places resulted in smooth operation of the linkage. I had to reposition the fork mounted guides and I must say am not impressed with their design or the fact that the scrape away at the paint, however, they did come into place with much fiddling. The end result was satisfactory and will no doubt improve when the rubbing blocks wear into the right shape. Did original equipment blocks come with a curved surface? Even though the brakes work fairly well I am critical of "rod brakes". As a mechanical engineer with 40 years experience in design/development, I can honestly say that this design would never have occured to me. Why the third world chose this design to copy is a mystery. All that said however, it is an interesting bunch of bits and pieces and has a lot of visual appeal. My DL-1 attracts a lot of attention when I ride it and questions about the brakes are uppermost in peoples minds. I can live with it.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   New DL-1 brake pads posted by Keith on 6/21/2000 at 6:07:16 AM
Fred raises a point that deserves honest feedback. I truly love the DL-1, with rod brakes, but have to admit their stopping power is not impressive, and nonexistent when it's wet. I'm willing to live with this because of the antiquarian charm of the thing, but I would not advocate the mass production of rod-brake bikes for riding in the conditions and traffic most of face today. I suppose rod brakes were cutting edge shortly after the turn of the last century, perhaps an improvement over the spoon brake, and rendered necessary as bikes switched from fixed gear to freewheel and epicyclic gears. But then coaster brakes also appeared fairly early, and these will really stop a bike. And of course much better alternatives are available today. The only way to ride safely and responsibly with rod brakes is to fully appreciate their limitations and act accordingly as you ride. Very simply, you have to be especially careful when you're riding fast -- a very good argument could be made that these bikes were never meant to be ridden fast at all, but to putter around at 10mph or less, and maybe this is the key. But when there's a stop sign at the bottom of a steep hill, you must slow down much sooner, and begin feathering the brakes at the top of the hill, whereas with more modern designs you could wait much longer to begin braking. Enjoy these wonderful machines, but stay safe!

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   New DL-1 brake pads posted by phil on 6/21/2000 at 6:31:25 AM
I suspect that the rod brake has proved the most reliable in the third world simply for its ruggedness. They will stop you....eventually. There are no cables to break and replace. If a rod gets bent.....you just bend it back. No complicated calipers, just steel rods and metal stirrups. Although I wonder what could be used instead of rubber pads.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   New DL-1 brake pads posted by Fred on 6/21/2000 at 8:27:41 AM
The subject of reliability is often presented when rod brakes are discussed. Its true that solid steel is very reliable, however there are many connections in the system that must be taken into consideration. It is true that cable systems are more fragile in some ways but I believe they are simpler to set up and maintain which is one aspect of reliability. Henry Ford stayed with steel rod actuated brakes much to the detriment of Ford Motor Co. when the entire industry was using hydraulics . Reliability at the cost of effectness is not justified in my opinion. All this aside, I too admire my DL-1 bikes and will strive to achieve the best performance out of the brake system. As Keith recommends though, I will mind the hills and plan ahead where braking is concerned.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   New DL-1 brake pads posted by dash on 6/21/2000 at 9:59:35 AM
I've been curious about those leather pads that Sheldon has, for "wet conditions". But by golly, they are $20 each, although I would be easily coaxed into adding any additional bit of "old world charm" to the bike. Has anybody tried these?
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/three.html#have


   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   New DL-1 brake pads posted by Keith on 6/21/2000 at 12:41:32 PM
I've seen those and got sticker shock. I'd have to have some assurance that they'd REALLY make a big difference before I'd invest in them!

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   New DL-1 brake pads posted by ChristopherRobin on 6/22/2000 at 10:26:20 AM
These pads that Sheldon is offering are rubber pads with chromed leather inserts and yes, they are worth it. They stop the bicycle better in wet weather.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   New DL-1 brake pads posted by Keith on 6/22/2000 at 12:34:01 PM
I'm no historian, but from what I can tell from the few books I have, rod-operated stirrup brakes probably evolved from rod-operated spoon or plunger brakes. These in turn were an improvement on the leather-tie operated spoon brakes that appear on boneshakers and early ordinaries/penny farthings. I found a good picture of an 1900 Raleigh that looks like an ancestor of the DL-1, except that it has a spoon/plunger front brake, and a Bowden (same as Raleigh Bowden?) cable brake. The earliest pic of a stirrup brake bike I could find dates it as 1913, though the text of the book suggests they were in use earlier. A real historian could probably cite the inventor and the date of the original patent, which I assume is English in this case. My impression is that they never caught on in the U.S. -- is that right? It seems early 1900s U.S. bikes go from spoon/plunger right to coaster brakes. Would a real historian please help?!

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   New DL-1 brake pads posted by Fred on 6/22/2000 at 7:28:11 PM
Am I correct in thinking that I have heard "rod brakes" referred to as "roller-lever" brakes or is that another design? If I am correct, where does the term "roller" come from?

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   New DL-1 brake pads posted by ChristopherRobin on 6/23/2000 at 7:44:17 AM
Roller lever rod brakes is correct. The roller part is where the brake lever fits in on the handlebars.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   New DL-1 brake pads posted by Kevin C. on 6/24/2000 at 3:07:42 PM
I have a set of the leather rod-brake pads, but I still hesitate to ride the DL-1 in traffic. It's a great bike for bike paths and country roads, but the poor stopping power of the brakes leaves me cold. For safety's sake, I usually opt for the Raleigh Sports.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   New DL-1 brake pads posted by Keith on 6/26/2000 at 10:00:58 AM
I used to commute on my Dunelt sports bike and not my DL-1, because there was a good stretch in heavy downtown traffic. But now the bike path takes me right to where I work -- so I ride the DL-1 to work most often. By the way, Kevin, it's the one you had way back when -- works great!

   English rod brake bicycle brake pads. posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 6/26/2000 at 1:18:03 PM
An awful lot of these bikes had a Perry or Eadie single speed coaster brake in the the rear wheel. Think about how many of these were and still are made without a three speed but a single speed coaster (foot brake) instead. These rod brakes take awhile getting used to. I wonder how many people have had a bad experience with rod brakes? If it is set up correctly and you oil the brake pivot points you should be alright.






AGE / VALUE:   Forever roadster posted by: Mark R. NJ on 6/20/2000 at 2:39:53 PM
Hi gang! Although I'm keeping my Raleigh DL-1 I need to move my Forever roadster along. Anyone intetrested? I have most of the parts neccessary to turn it into a three speed too. I will be very happy to bargain with you guys. I paid $185 with shipping, but I'll sell it for much less but only to one of you. It has raleigh pedals, a better bell(plus the original), and spare bars too. Please write to me if you are interested, and we'll strike a deal. Shipping should not be a problem. Thanks, Mark R. NJ


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Forever roadster posted by Keith on 6/21/2000 at 9:07:35 AM
Mark, meet Mark (markmobile@hotmail.com). A while ago the Markmobile Mark said he wanted a Forever. Have at it, boys.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Found a "Royal Crown - Korlis" (??) in a barn posted by: Lisa on 6/19/2000 at 9:04:19 AM
Found an old (but in really good condition) bicycle in my father-in-law's barn. It is light blue and says "Royal Crown - Made in England" on the front fork (pardon me if my terminology is incorrect) and it also says "Korlis" on the handlebars. It's a 3-speed, has what looks like a greyhound 'hood ornament' on the front fender and has a headlight and taillights that work off a generator that generates power by rubbing on the tire - so as you pedal you generate power. Know where I can find any info on this bicycle???


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Found a posted by http://www.ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 6/19/2000 at 1:12:24 PM
I cannot believe all the diffrent names I keep hearing when it comes to British Bicycles!! Royal Crown? Korless?? Never heard of this. What size wheels? Is this a cable brake or does it have rod linkage type brakes? Keep it, get it road worthy and have fun with it. Check out the rear hub, it may have a date printed on it. Describe it in more detail for me.






WANTED:   Schwinn Varsity posted by: Fred on 6/19/2000 at 7:56:25 AM
I would like to buy an early 60's Schwinn Varsity. The only requirement is that it must be in excellent condition both mechanically and cosmetically.


   RE:WANTED:   Schwinn Varsity posted by Jeff on 6/19/2000 at 8:43:11 AM
VVVintage sold a 1964 on Ebay about a week or 2 ago. It had original documentation and everything, including NOS handlebar tape. And it was COPPERTONE!






AGE / VALUE:šššMotobecane 3 speed posted by: David on 6/17/2000 at 5:38:25 PM
I recently purchased a Motobecane Verderlicht deluxe
3 speed at a yard sale. The bike was in great shape just had to change the tires. THe bike is odd in that it has the brakes enclosed in the hub of each wheel and they are controlled by a steel rods not cables. I need to find out if anyone knows where or if I can get parts for this bike. I am sure at some point I will need to change the brake pads. The bike also has built in lights and a full chain cover. Any help would be great thanks.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:šššMotobecane 3 speed posted by Norman F. Birnberg on 6/19/2000 at 2:20:11 AM
I wouldn't know where parts for rod brakes (if you can't find them for a Raleigh, good luck on finding them for
your Motobecane!)could be obtained today.

I do know a hub brake on an internal gear bicycle wouldn't be unusual at all. Sheldon Brown upgraded my Raleigh Superbe to a Shimano Nexus 7-Speed and I had the original
cable brakes replaced with a Nexus hub brake in the rear and a Sturmey Archer Sprinter Elite hub brake in the front.
They are cable operated unlike yours and stop very well in all weather conditions.

I'd say the Motobecane is the first instance of a French
made three speed I've seen in this OldRoads discussion forum. Nice to see it has everything, including the full chainguard that one seldom sees on 3 speeds out there. I take it the tires on the Motobecane are French 650B? That would be the standard on French utility bikes although its endangered even in France.
Norman

   RE:AGE / VALUE:šššMotobecane 3 speed posted by Michael on 6/19/2000 at 9:35:54 AM
Old French utility bikes are still widely used throughout France. On a recent trip to Grenoble, I spotted just about every variety of velo anciens. 650b wheels are alive and spinning. I saw one very old touring bike with 650b, canti brakes, and drop bars; that's almost the same spec as a modern expedition bike. Those beaten aluminium fenders are a real feature, as are leather saddles by Lepper rather than Brooks.
French hub gears/ drum brakes are probably Sachs rather than Sturmey Archer. If you can see any name or model that would help. Hub brakes are not such an odd feature on old bikes, and are making a bit of a comeback with Shimano Nexus. Does it have a dynamo hub as well ?

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:šššMotobecane 3 speed posted by David on 6/19/2000 at 6:28:35 PM
Thanks for your input. The hub on the wheel says Sturmey Archer as does the gear shifter. The leather saddle is by Lepper. Do you think finding parts for this bike would be hard? I ride it every morning to the local Starbucks for coffee and almost daily someone ask me about the bike.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:šššMotobecane 3 speed posted by David on 6/19/2000 at 6:35:29 PM
Thanks for taking the time to answer my question. I dont know what kind of tires it had the local bike shop threw them out. The original tires had dry rotted. The bike also has built in head and tail lights and the generator still works. It also has a built in locking device(with key, I set the lock without knowing what it was and the key shot out at me!),and a rear rack.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:sssMotobecane 3 speed posted by Sheldon Brown on 6/19/2000 at 9:15:42 PM
Your Motobecane may well have been made in France, but it was clearly made for the Dutch market...the name is a partial tipoff.

This style of bike is the norm in the Netherlands, and is very well suited to the local conditions. The Netherlands is very flat, so weight is not a concern. The only reason for shifting gears is to accommodate wind shifts. A 3 speed gives an upwind gear, a downwind gear and a middle gear for the few days when the wind is resting.

The soil there is very sandy, and the windblown sand can make a terrible mess of an unprotected chain, so chain cases are the norm. Similarly, the rod brakes are more reliable than cable operated ones in sandy conditions. The drum brakes aren't all that powerful, but these bikes are not ridden at high speeds, nor on hills, so they don't need a very powerful brake...however, these are utility bikes in a very wet country, so the all-weather reliability of drums is much prized by Dutch bicycle users.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:sssMotobecane 3 speed posted by Sheldon Brown on 6/19/2000 at 9:17:52 PM
P.S. Lepper saddles are of Dutch manufacture.






AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh vintage bikes posted by: Robert J. Caldwell on 6/17/2000 at 10:30:05 AM
Wanted: Raleigh Sports or Superbe 3-Speed vintage 1950s or 1960s in good condition. I had one as a kid and would love to find a replacement to ride today. Please email me if you have any information about where I could obtain this English classic.







MISC:   First Bike posted by: ART on 6/16/2000 at 7:09:04 PM
In 1957 my first bike was a red, skinny-tired, single speed coaster-braked bike by Royce Union given to me by my father. I hated the bike at first because it was so different from my pals' fat tired bikes and because I'd fly off it if I hit sand going too fast. Eventually that bike became my own and I learned to negotiate trouble spots. 43 years later I learned that my father gave me that bike because he fell in love with European racing bikes during the war. Bikes have and continue to be an important part of my relationship with my son. I had him in a good Road Gear child's seat when he was an infant, road endless miles with him connected to my bike on a tag-a-long called an Alley Cat, and recently adapted an older Schwinn tandem to him when he outgrew the Alley Cat. Happy Father's Day. Art.


   RE:MISC:   First Bike posted by phil on 6/16/2000 at 7:38:16 PM
I only have a vague recollection of my first. I know it was a fat tire American bike. I can remember my father pushing me off and running along side when I was first learning to ride. In fact, I can picture it clearly, the grass, the side yard of the house, the white fence, and my father, thinner than I usually remember him, running along side grinning. But I cannot picture the bike very well. I do remember my sister riding that "fat tire" bike after I got my "3 speed". And I remember a tricycle with a really large front wheel, 20 or 24" maybe.

So when my kids remember back about me and our bicycles they'll probably ask themselves, "why in the world did my dad have all those old bikes in the garage? They were hanging from the ceiling and lined up so deep that Dad's car never got in out of the rain."

Yes, indeed, happy father's day.

   RE:MISC:   First Bike posted by Fred on 6/16/2000 at 10:11:07 PM
Art: I got my first bike, in 1944. It was also a "skinny" tired bike called a Victory bike. Like you I didn't like it for the same reason. At that age we want what is popular.
If you are interested in seeing my bike, take a look in my website at: fredhaj.tripod.com. History repeated itself when I bought my daugter a shiny new yellow 1975 Schwinn 3 speed. All the other kids had new 10 speeds. I thought then, and still think, that a bike with drop bars is not safe for a young child. My opinion was validated when a neighbor child, riding a 10 speed, was badly hurt when she hit hole while trying to look back. My daughter rode the Schwinn very little and now it is in my collection in near new condition.

   RE:RE:MISC:   First Bike posted by Oscar on 6/17/2000 at 10:37:11 AM
I have a few vague memories of Dad and his bike. My earliest is being put onto the fold-down metal seat of my Dad's 3-speed. He seldom rode his bike, and the seat was covered in dust. He was a little unsteady in the saddle, and I remember being a little nervous sitting there behind him swaying back and forth as he pedaled up the block.

My brother and I took to building bike jumps a few years later. We made a really unsteady ramp out of a 2 x 4 and a brick. Before Mom shut the operation down, Dad grabbed my brother's Typhoon, stoked up the pedals and headed for the ramp. (My brother actually blessed himself as he saw it coming. He loved the bike and was fond of Dad, too.) At the last second, Dad swerved past the ramp, and we kids dismantled the ramp forever. Once again, the old guy saved my life.

He still rides occasionally.

   RE:MISC:   First Bike posted by JimW. on 6/17/2000 at 1:36:07 PM
I got my first bike in 1957, when I was 13. It was a 2-spd.
Raleigh, wearing the "Blue Grass" decals of the Belknap Hardware
Co. of Louisville, KY. The first time I took it out, I met
a female classmate, who told me it was a neat bike. I always
related it to the MG-TD roadster driven by a local college student.
At the time, I couldn't figure out why everyone called it an
"English Racer" because my friend's Schwinns were always faster.
Eventually, I figured out it was because I always kept the
shifter on "1", because it was easier to pedal. As most of our
local streets and roads were unpaved, and I wasn't big on
maintenance, it eventually lost every component that wasn't
welded on. Its replacement was a Western Flyer middleweight,
which was sturdier, but didn't have nearly as much style.

   This is not good, not at all. posted by ChristopherRobin on 6/19/2000 at 7:32:46 AM
"The reason there are no old bikes at this estate sale of mine is because I collect them myself." "Why, just the other day I found me a Wizzard," "You mean Whizzer" I corrected. "Yes one of those and these people here had a Schwinn." I left and went looking elsewhere.

   My first bike posted by ChristopherRobin on 6/19/2000 at 7:44:56 AM
I had a Ross Apollo 3 speed in Coffee brown with the Shimano 333 rear hub. My dad knew a fellow who owned a shop selling Ross and the Schwinn's got stolen a lot. I think it was this guy who sold them on the Ross. My pal Marc down the street saw it and had to have one so he got his parents to get him a orange one. I own them both today. I don't remember the peddle car, or the tricycle, or the other little bike. How many kids get a oil can and oil their bikes? We all washed,and oiled, and polished our bikes. The good wife was hit by a car on her bike, as was my brother in law.

   What started it all. posted by ChristopherRobin on 6/19/2000 at 7:52:58 AM
Later on, I got a look at my moms Raleigh Tourist D.L.1 L Rod brake with those huge wheels! I started with a Sports and then Raleigh D.L.1.'s like potato chips, parts, tires, e.t.c. I met good, decent people who took time to teach me things and I was tending yards and running my paper route.

   RE:MISC:   First Bike posted by Keith on 6/19/2000 at 9:39:56 AM
From what I can tell from pictures, my first bike was a Columbia one speed with training wheels. When I was about 7 (1965-66) my folks got me a purple StingRay, which I considered my first "real" bike. I had many hours of fun and adventure on it. Wish I still had it.

   RE:MISC:   First Bike posted by Matthew on 6/20/2000 at 1:49:30 PM
Mobo trike 1965. Triang Gadabout Pedal car 1968 (still got that one) Halfords Gemini 22 1971- poor man's Moulton lookalike with no suspension.
I could write more "Small chap on a Bike" would you read it?
90 in the shade this side of the pond too hot to ride, ours is a damp heat yuk! Did it stop me? No!
Ride softly and wear a helmet.

   RE:RE:MISC:   First Bike posted by Fred on 6/23/2000 at 7:29:53 AM
Matthew: I for one would read "small chap bike stories". You mention a Halford's bike. A Dutch Canadian neighbor of mine in Florida has a Halford's. It is a nice bike in the Dutch manner but not in the class of say, Batavus bikes. As I understand it, Halfords in spite of the English name is a Dutch concern that has a chain of stores.

   RE:What started it all. posted by ChristopherRobin on 7/5/2000 at 3:36:54 PM
The shops had a lot of old unsold inventory 3 speed parts and Raleigh parts, the 10 speeds were hot and the 3 speed was not. Literally on the way out to the dumpster. I was astounded at the amount of perfectly good, usable things, still in wrappings. It was the waste that I could not understand. I got permission from the owner who introduced me to other people in the bike biz. I brought home carloads. Showcases, signs, posters, parts of every description, wheels, frames. e.t.c. One bike they gave me because the owner had died and was not comming back for the bike (we guessed) and it was there 10 years covered in dust.They gave me this 24 inch frame Raleigh Tourist D.L.1. The new owners tossed even more, the whole wall of drawers was ripped out and The owner was glad to get rid of it. Then off to the other shop he had then down the street to meet the compettion.The Jobbers told me who had old parts and so I hoped in the car and went all over.Soon it was "don't throw that away that Chris fellow will want it."
Here, it's a gift if you take it out of my shop right now!!! I'm sick of looking at it! These days things are diffrent, this happens less and less but still, the waste is sinfull. I hear from friends in Europe "The bloakes come in and it all goes to landfill unless you are there to haul it away. If I'm eating ravolli for lunch and didn't hear about it in time, then I missed out and it's gone!! I went to an Sunday estate sale of one longtime collector, a Old School, 6 day bike racer who made alloy racing wheels he was literally up the street but I missed out on meeting him.He was too reclusive. Boy, the things I could have learned from him!! The bike mentor he could have been!! Wow! He had this huge complex of buildings, old Greyhound type busses filled with vintage wheels Chater- Lea hubs, box after box after box of parts, tooling. The auctioneers tore out their hair there was so much. Finally, they said to heck with it, they wanted to get it over with and things went really cheaply. The guy would have bbeen angry!! Old watch repair stuff! It's all gone scattered to the four winds. I recognized no one! All my pals I tried to get there were either broke or not at home. I was not on the mailing list and heard about it by chance and was not able to get much because it was a Sunday. The collection of complete vintage racing bicycles was amazing! A giant had fallen and we walked around in shock at the amount of stuff. I went to another Estate sale, this fellow was a professional clown(T.V.) There was a 4000 piece collection of books on Magic in this huge wall bookshelf. It took a lifetime to amass it. It was scattered in pieces to the vultures that stoped in by chance. This should have been donated to some library or something. I worry about him in the afterlife(magic?) Not me, no thanks! I got an unbelievable collection of fishing tackle and went home.

   Too much stuff posted by ChristopherRobin on 7/5/2000 at 4:04:51 PM
I suppose you can say that this is how it all ends up with a lot of collectors. strangers walking all over wondering how they will get it in the truck, How they will get a truck big enough up the driveway without running over that flower bed .I wondered if the late owner would collect it all over again if given the chance to live life again.Where is the person now? I wonder as I look at pictures for the frames. As the living room has become a place of merchandise? The stuff has to go somewhere, nobody takes it with them, but some of these estate sales have been creepy, odd or just unsettling. You get a weird feeling once in a blue moon and make for the door.






AGE / VALUE:   schwinn traveler posted by: Hal on 6/15/2000 at 6:45:24 AM
Have an all original Schwinn Traveler that is approx. 40 yrs
old, my cousin was 1st owner, I'm the second, bike is in good condition, with Sturmy/Archer 3 speed hub with trigger,
generator with front and rear lights. I'm just looking for information.