OldRoads.com

This is an archive of Vintage Bicycle Information.
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which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.

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which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.

Archived: English Roadsters







MISC:   Can anyone help? posted by: MAL on 10/1/2001 at 5:29:55 PM
Does anybody out there know anything about Viking Conquest cycles?







FOR SALE:   Rod Brake Blocks posted by: DBean on 10/1/2001 at 4:58:13 PM
I have NOS Fibrax rod brake blocks. "No 70 Raleigh Roadster" $6 for 1 pair, $10 for 2 pair postpaid. Send me an email telling me what you want; I don't want to overpromise.
beand@polaroid.com







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Fuji Grand SE (Help) posted by: Mike on 10/1/2001 at 2:38:51 AM
Ok, Paid $30 looks like was owned by a real enthusiast that got a new one. Everything works but needs cleaned up. Was thinking of doing an update. 12 speed to 21 0r 27 speed? And what can I do to update the centerpull brakes? Realy lightweight! Serial Number is JA109689 But have not found out anything with taht yet. Any help welcome. What year is it?


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Fuji Grand SE (Help) posted by Dale Oswald on 10/3/2001 at 5:18:30 PM
I'd rip off the derailleurs and install an AW wheel, maybe an FW. Phillips sidepulls would be nice, too.

Sorry, but what'd you expect from this crowd? :-)

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Fuji Grand SE (Help) posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/4/2001 at 1:00:29 AM
Wheel it in and ask the shop rats for ideas. (Shop rats are bike shop mechaincs) Look around at diffrent shops for diffrent brakes. You did very well.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Fuji Grand SE (Help) posted by Sheldon Brown on 10/6/2001 at 1:06:51 AM
A caliper brake system consists of 4 parts:

•The levers
•The cables
•The calipers
•The brake shoes

All of these parts are upgradable. Many people think first of replacing the calipers, but, in fact, this is the least likely part to make any real difference. A caliper is a simple leverage unit, and there's not all that much to one.

In the case of older bikes, it can be difficult to find a new caliper that will even fit.

The other 3 parts are much more likely to yield real improvement.

•The levers

Older designs had the cables exit up from the front of the brake levers, arching over the
handlebars. The newer style, where the cable exits out the back of the lever and runs under the handlebar tape is referred to as "aero" because it eliminates the wind drag of the exposed cables.

Aero levers are generally a major improvement over the older type. The pivots are located differently, making it possible to get fairly serious braking from the position where the rider's hand is on top of the lever hood. Traditional levers would permit the use of this position for gentle deceleration only.

Additionally, the better aero levers have better internal cable routing, so there's less cable friction. I particularly recommend the Shimano Tiagra units we sell for $39.95, including cables. See: http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakes.html#leversdrop

•The cables

Older cables used metal-to-metal contact as the inner cable slid through the spiral-wound steel housing. Lubricant was by grease, if the mechanic was conscientious.

Modern cable housings have a Teflon or similar lining. The better inner cables are stainless steel, and are "die drawn" to make them smoother. The result is greatly reduced cable friction, so more of your finger strength is transmitted to the caliper, rather than wasted overcoming cable friction.

•The brake shoes

Modern high-performance brake shoes also make a considerable difference. The very best is the ugly salmon-colored material originated by Scott-Mathauser, and now sold under the Kool Stop name. See: http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html

All the best,

Sheldon






AGE / VALUE:   A painted skeleton hanging up in the garage posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 9/30/2001 at 7:54:12 PM
"Yes, we have a bike, we just didn't put it out!" "Show him the bike, Ed." We step into the garage and it comes into focus and I bit my toungue to keep from screaming. The bike was hanging up and we took it down and I knelt down to look at it closely. It had been spray painted in black laquer all over everything. Even to top tube Sturmey-Archer shifter, the cables, linkage, chain, everything was stiff from this paint. But that was not the worst of it. No, The wheels were switched and in place was some American 26 X 1.75 with the rod brake linkage (pads) against the side of the rims. This has no working brakes at all. It was a prop in a theatre before it was converted into a movie house. I was too speechless to answer when he asked what my offer would be. This had the Ashby rear rack with the fold down drop stand. By some strange stroke of luck, it had escaped the treatment. I never see these and I should have bought it for that alone but I didn't. It was the spray paint! I can't deal with it.
I told him you can restore it, that there are very good cycle painters(I recomended one in California) and that he could find decals, wheels and stuff. The fellow "wanted to wait until some collector friend had come by and seen it, and that this fellow makes his living putting things up on E- bay." Whatever. "Perhaps we will call you" I had bought two pieces of Oriental intricate woodcarvings and despite my droping the one on the cement, it wasn't even scratched. The one is a chain of elephants and the other a fisherman about to cast a net.







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Pre-war Phillips parts posted by: Esteban on 9/30/2001 at 7:52:04 PM
I've started back on my cleaned-up 1936 Phillips City Model bicycle, and I need a few parts:
1. Shift cable for a AW-8 hub (Low-N-High SA shifter mounted on the main tube)
2. A spare pair of 26" RED tires (new or in good shape)
3. Lens for the rear light (12v dynahub system)
4. The little metal (plastic would do for now) oil cap on the rear hub

Anyone have spares or could point me in the right direction? The shift cable is my most pressing concern, and new tires (ok...tyres) would make me more confident on it as a daily rider. Any suggestions/comments? Thanks...great to have the site up again.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Pre-war Phillips parts posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 9/30/2001 at 8:35:27 PM
Oh, how I love those red tires! Try John Pinkerton in England for the tires.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Pre-war Phillips parts posted by Ian on 10/1/2001 at 10:14:18 AM
Hi, there is a new cable for a Sturmey top tube shifter and a new plastic oiler up on eBay right now. Look in category #420, Collectables, Transportation, Bicycles. Cheers, Ian.






MISC:   Decals and Cotterless Cranks posted by: Tom Faust on 9/30/2001 at 4:37:51 AM
OK, winter is nigh, and it is time to do over the old Sports. I know this question has been asked before, but has a source for decals developed? Much as I hate to give up the Heron chainwheel, can someone fill me in on what is needed to convert to cotterless cranks?


   RE:MISC:   Decals and Cotterless Cranks posted by Peter on 10/1/2001 at 7:58:08 AM
Try http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/NICK_at_LLOYDS/decals.htm for the decals. In England, but ships worldwide.

   RE:MISC: Decals and Cotterless Cranks posted by Albert on 10/1/2001 at 8:55:06 PM
Tom I'm delighted to hear that you're considering the crank conversion! Perhaps one of my earlier postings helped to bring the idea to the fore? I would suggest that you locate a disused cycle having a cotterless crank; they seem to be plentiful---at least in this metropolitan area, Philadelphia. Even the least expensive with their arms and spider swaged are quite suitable. Remove the larger chainwheel by unbolting or, if need be, cutting. The remaining chainwheel will be about 40-teeth; this used with an 18-20-tooth cog will yield three very ridable gears--I use a 40/20 combination which provideds me with gears of 40",54",and 72". The salvaged spindle will be used but on Raleigh's you must re-use the bearing cups as Raleigh threading is 28t.p.s. whereas the standard is 24. Because the cone faces on the cotterless spindle are somewhat closer together than the Raleigh's you will find the the adjustable cup will thread itself further into bottom-bracket shell--in some cases leaving very little threaded area for the lockring. I found that the problem is somewhat lessened by using a spindle from a mountain-bike.As an aside, I once absentinedly threaded a conventional 24t.p.s. cup into a Raleigh frame; it threaded well at first but then became very heavy going.Needless-to-say, no lockring was needed! And as recall, I was even able to remove and reinstall the cup several when repacking bearing over the years. Now returning to my suggestions, you may need to adjust the chainline after installing the new cranks; SA hubs are capable of several cog postions by altering the position of the two spacer washers and the dished cog. A few additional thoughts; you may decide to use 175mm cranks rather than 170mm, the longer don't seem to be a problem at the peddling cadence of a roadster and the additional leverage can be used to good advantage. The less expensive cotterless cranks will use steel chainwheels; I find these more desirable as they will easily out wear the alloy in daily use. And 'oh yes, you seem to be reluctant to make the conversion for fear of loosing some the Raleigh features and to that end I remind you that the conversion is entirly reversable--just put Raleigh crank aside in safe place. You will find the conversion will lighten the cycle, make it more readily servicable, and give you an opportunity to change the gearing to a more realistic set of three. Cheers from Philadelphia.

   RE:RE:MISC: Decals and Cotterless Cranks posted by Albert on 10/2/2001 at 9:50:32 AM
As an addendum I might go on to say that you may find your selected cog is unable to provide you with suitable chain fit; in this case it will be neccessary to go one tooth larger or smaller.






AGE / VALUE:   NOS Sturmey-Archer 3-speed cables, $6 each. posted by: Kevin C. on 9/30/2001 at 2:29:55 AM
New old stock, with gray housings, made to fit Raleigh Sports, Schwinn Racers and similiar three-speeds with SA trigger shifters. Includes adjusting barrel. $6 each, postage paid.







MISC:   Needed: Suggestions for D.Y.I lighting posted by: Albert on 9/29/2001 at 8:25:33 PM
My periodic trips to the local township transfer stations are used not only to salvadge cycle parts but to also obtain gas powered lawnmowers for use by automotive technology students at a Philadelphia high school. These mowers have engines that are well suited to the first year student in the introductory class. Several of the mowers were found with gelled lead-acid batteries used in conjunction with a small starter-motor. I would like a few suggestions on how these batteries might be used to provide a lighting system for my work-a-day roadster.I am particularly eager to hear from anyone who has acactually "cobbled together" such a system from components other than the very high priced ones sold specically for cycles.


   RE:MISC:   Needed: Suggestions for D.Y.I lighting posted by JimW. on 9/29/2001 at 9:24:05 PM
I've dealt with gel-cells quite a bit. There's nothing much
to it. If the mower came with a charger, you're ahead of the
game. If not, they should be charged at 10% of the battery's
current rating. You can use a dynohub or tire generator to
keep them charged, if it's a 6V cell, but it's simpler just to charge it off the road when it gets low. I'm presuming that it's a 12V. battery, in which case you need to use a 12V bulb in your light. (Radio Shack has them all) It's pretty easy to build a charger for it, but it's too long a process to get into in a post. But all the parts can be obtained from Radio Shack. E-mail me directly if you want more info. I can send you a schematic.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Needed: Suggestions for D.Y.I lighting posted by Albert on 10/2/2001 at 8:24:50 PM
Thanks Jim for taking the time to reply. Your suggestion om charging-rate is very helpful. Winter's darkness will soon be here at 39.8-degrees N.and I've suffered too many years with "bottle" generators!

   RE:MISC:   Needed: Suggestions for D.Y.I lighting posted by Dale Oswald on 10/4/2001 at 4:55:18 PM
Use an MR11 bulb to fabricate a light housing. Bulb Direct has a 12V 12W lamp with tight spot (8 degree) pattern. You can make a headlight housing out of a PVC drain tube with a compression fitting on it, like used in sink drains. I think it's 1 1/4" size. Remove the gasket and the MR11 fits right in. Either cut a lens out of clear plastic or buy the MR11 with cover glass. You'll need to figure out how to mount this assembly, I glued mine into a plastic project box and mounted it on the front of my recumbent.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Needed: Suggestions for D.Y.I lighting posted by Albert on 10/4/2001 at 8:18:47 PM
Dale, this is just the type of d.y.i. advice for which I was looking.Thanks!

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Needed: Suggestions for D.Y.I lighting posted by Albert on 10/4/2001 at 8:18:51 PM
Dale, this is just the type of d.y.i. advice for which I was looking.Thanks!






AGE / VALUE:   What are you looking at? posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 9/29/2001 at 5:05:13 PM
I left one of my Raleigh Tourist DL1's at the shop with the mechanic and he had it where customers could see it. One thing for sure,this turns heads and starts conversations. Comments heard are: Is it for sale? who owns it? I remember when I had one, I saw these in this or that country. The rod brake linkage, the enclosed chaincase, deraileur parts married to Sturmey hubs with cables everywhere,and they are staring. "What is that "thing" in the front wheel?" "Can I get one?" Can I have his number? How much? How many do you have?
Finally we decided to put it out of sight. You want the customer on the sales floor doing this over the new bikes with better brakes, not in the back repair part. I've met people at the counter, seconds away from buying a new bike and then I walk in and they take one look at my D.L.1. and the shop lost the sale right there.I sell the bike withing a few minutes and the astounded salesman asks me to bring my stuff in the back door from now on. They are saying, "No he does not work here, that's just Chris."


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   What are you looking at? posted by Mark R. on 10/1/2001 at 12:31:07 AM
I've had similar experiences. You'd think some smart company would SELL these bikes, wouldn't you?
Everyone who sees my Raleigh "Tourist" wants one, but they claim they couldn't sell them.
If someone would make and sell bikes like this for a real price, say $350 (easy considering how inexpensively they can sell really, really nice aluminum bikes at "Toys-r-us", check'em out)they'd sell thousands of them!
Imagine a WELL made Forever roadster with three speeds. If Forever would make a 24" version with a three speed hub, and QUALITY pedals, and parts,it would be a really great bike and probably would sell for under $300.
I'd buy one.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   What are you looking at? posted by Dale Oswald on 10/4/2001 at 5:01:31 PM
Nobody will make a $150 recumbent either, but I bet you could sell a boatload of them.

BTW I'm having a hard time finding an old, quality serviceable three speed, English or Schwinn, in my area (Rochester, NY). Are they starting to get rare?






FOR SALE:   NOS peaked Lightweight fenders posted by: Jim on 9/29/2001 at 12:37:24 PM
For sale NOS peaked lightweight fenders. $20 shipped no harware with these. Check it out at http://bikeyard.home.mindspring.com/peaked


   RE:FOR SALE:   NOS peaked Lightweight fenders posted by Warren on 9/29/2001 at 7:28:36 PM
Why can't I access this URL...I always get gibberish?

   RE:RE:FOR SALE:   NOS peaked Lightweight fenders posted by Jim on 9/29/2001 at 8:50:24 PM
I don't know Warren, your one of the only ones that has this problem that I am aware of. I specifically used this address because you have had problems with www.coconutgirls.com address. Email me at bikeyard@mindspring.com and I will email you pictures of any items that your interested as well as anyone else that has problems.

   RE:RE:RE:FOR SALE:   NOS peaked Lightweight fenders posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 9/30/2001 at 8:39:16 PM
I just joined the gibberish club, so at least Warren is not alone. Oh, the mystery of computers!

   RE:RE:RE:RE:FOR SALE:   NOS peaked Lightweight fenders posted by Jim on 9/30/2001 at 10:33:23 PM
Try it here guys
http://bikeyard.home.mindspring.com/mvc-006f.jpg

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:FOR SALE:   NOS peaked Lightweight fenders posted by Wings on 10/1/2001 at 6:57:06 AM
Where are the coconut girls???

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:FOR SALE:   NOS peaked Lightweight fenders posted by Wings on 10/1/2001 at 7:02:45 AM
Whoops, I found them! Good music, nice cat! But, they are not on bikes! Don't bother!!

   Coconut girls posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/2/2001 at 3:28:19 PM
They arrived last week complete with grass skirts. He sold out of them really quickly.

   RE:Coconut girls posted by Jim on 10/2/2001 at 3:49:07 PM
Actually it is a T-Shirt outfit. I could get all of you guys some baby doll T shirts cheap. You would all look great I'm sure.






FOR SALE:   NOS Wald Lightweight fenders posted by: Jim on 9/29/2001 at 12:37:24 PM
For sale NOS 26" Wald lightweight fenders. $22 shipped I have several of these. Check it out at http://bikeyard.home.mindspring.com/waldfender







FOR SALE:   NOS Rigida 26 x 13/8 40 hole rim posted by: Jim on 9/29/2001 at 12:37:24 PM
For sale NOS Rigida 26x1 3/8 40 hole rim. It is the flat style. Check it out at http://bikeyard.home.mindspring.com/rigida


   RE:FOR SALE:   NOS Rigida 26 x 13/8 40 hole rim posted by Jim on 9/29/2001 at 12:44:58 PM
$32 shipped. I have several of these. Sorry about the double post






FOR SALE:   NOS Rigida 26 x 13/8 40 hole rim posted by: Jim on 9/29/2001 at 12:37:24 PM
For sale NOS Rigida 26x1 3/8 40 hole rim. It is the flat style. Check it out at http://bikeyard.home.mindspring.com/rigida







FOR SALE:   NOS SA 26 x 13/8 40 hole rim posted by: Jim on 9/29/2001 at 12:37:24 PM
For sale NOS Sturmey Archer 26x1 3/8 40 hole rim. It is the style with the hump in the middle. Check it out at http://bikeyard.home.mindspring.com/sa


   RE:FOR SALE:   NOS SA 26 x 13/8 40 hole rim posted by Jim on 9/29/2001 at 12:45:44 PM
$38 shipped.

   RE:RE:FOR SALE:   NOS SA 26 x 13/8 40 hole rim posted by Jim on 10/2/2001 at 3:50:03 PM
Rim is sold






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Glad the site is back posted by: Paul M. (New Orleans) on 9/29/2001 at 5:31:15 AM
I'm so glad the site is back, Vin. I hadn't checked in in a while and then tried to last night and this morning. I was afraid that the site was gone forever. I certainly sympathize with your having rebuild the site.