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Archived: English Roadsters







AGE / VALUE:    THE hubs to have in your bike! posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/20/2001 at 5:13:02 PM
There are some great vintage Sturmey Archer hubs being offered on e- bay right now. An A.S.C. (with the blasted, rare as all get out trigger included) alloy shell, even in the origonal box! This is the 3 speed fixed gear hub. Also a F.M. four speed! This is THE hub for your club bike! Keep an eye out as these awesome hubs are showing up. The F.M. is great! I put these in my Roadster D.L.1.'s and it's wonderful. They are really meant for a British lightweight however.
As always, Sheldon has these hubs covered (even pictures too) at his web site.
No relation to seller(s) not my auction and I wouldn't think of selling these selection of goodies.
Owning a classic 531 British lightweight like a Raleigh Record Ace and having a F.M. four- speed hub in the thing with like a 16 tooth sprocket and really getting out there and riding in the brisk morning is a real treat and something you shouldn't miss. I went out and went a little too fast on mine, I wanted to see what it would do and scared myself. I enjoyed every second of it.I went back and told the shop owner who assembled this for me. I was grinning and I just said "Awesome!"







MISC:   alloy rims? posted by: Robert on 10/20/2001 at 12:03:06 AM
My 26" 1 3/8 steel rims are pretty well dinged. Are alloy rims made in this size? Where might I look?


   RE:MISC:   alloy rims? posted by Robert on 10/20/2001 at 12:11:18 AM
I didn't mention these are EA-1/S-6 rims.

   RE:MISC:   alloy rims? posted by Bob True on 10/20/2001 at 5:08:17 AM
Weinemann makes some alloy 26 x 1 3/8 rims. 36 hole only. I saw them advertised at the Harris Cyclery website. You can get there from www.sheldonbrown.com

   RE:RE:MISC:   alloy rims? posted by Bob True on 10/20/2001 at 5:29:40 AM
I forgot to mention the weinemann's I think are EA3, so don't know if they'd work for you or not.

   RE:MISC:   alloy rims? posted by Warren on 10/20/2001 at 1:52:43 PM
Check the size again...EA1 should be 26 X 1 1/4...unless the bike is special like a club bike you may be wise to convert to the alloy EA3. Much easier to get tires.

   RE:RE:MISC:   alloy rims? posted by Robert on 10/20/2001 at 5:46:55 PM
The tires that are on my bike now read,"fits EA-1 English 1- 1/4 straight side or Schwinn S-6" The tire size is given as 26 x 1- 3/8. I have another bike that will take 27" 1-1/8 high pressure tires or 1-1/4. Must be an either/or thing like that. I thank all for the information.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   alloy rims? posted by Warren on 10/20/2001 at 9:51:02 PM
I remember reading about that Schwinn size now...they are not the standard 26 X 1 3/8 so remember that when looking for rubber. That size is virtually impossible to find here in Canada cuz we didn't sell Schwinns here to any great extent.

   RE:RE:MISC:   alloy rims? posted by Jim on 10/23/2001 at 10:10:53 AM
I have a couple of sets of 26 x 1 1/4 tires available.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Sturmey Archer posted by: Bob True on 10/19/2001 at 9:33:27 PM
Could anyone tell me if it's common with Sturmey Archer AW hubs to have to pedal forward a bit after coasting in order to engage the hub? I'm used to derailers, where the moment you pedal forward you're applying power. With the Sturmey it seems there's several inches of lag time or slack when pedaling forward after coasting. Otherwise the hub works fine.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Sturmey Archer posted by Mark R. on 10/19/2001 at 10:42:32 PM
That's how mine works. I've never had a problem so far.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:  Sturmey Archer A.W. hubs (older style) posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/20/2001 at 5:54:09 PM
Keep it oiled a little and often and make sure it is in adjustment. Don't get up off the saddle (seat) and pedal it standing up.
(honking) If it slips on you, and these do if out of adjustment you can hurt yourself by sliping down on the top bar.
Thery're great and reliable hubs.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:  Sturmey Archer A.W. hubs (older style) posted by Bob True on 10/21/2001 at 3:17:26 AM
Thanks for the info. I've got my Sturmey AW adjusted, both the cable and the bearings. I know what you mean about slipping out of gear or being in between gears . . . but this is forward slack motion when in gear after coasting. It's only slack for about 1/8 of a pedal revolution . . . and I'm thinking this is just the way a Sturmey works.

I've squirted some more oil in the hub today so I'll see if that changes anything. When I first got this bike (72 Humber Sports) I used some WD-40 in the hub to clean it out and loosen up any old gunk. Now I'm using 3-in-1 oil as it seems like a general middle weight oil.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:  Sturmey Archer A.W. hubs (older style) posted by Fred on 10/24/2001 at 1:43:50 AM
Bob; The free wheel mechanisn in SA hubs is a version of a classic sprag clutch using spring loaded drive pawls. The sprags are ramped and when coasting, the pawls run over the ramps and drop to the bottom of the next ramp, ergo; the clicks. When pedalling is resumed after coasting, there are two things that have to happen before the pawls seat on the driving face of the ramps. One; pedal rpm must be equal to or greater than the rpm of the ball ring which contains the ramps, and two; the pawls must descend the ramps to contact the ramp steps. The angle that must be turned by the crank for the pawls to "catch up to", the ramp steps is dependent on how fast you resume pedal action. The angle turned through to climb the ramp is equal to 360 deg. divided by the number of ramps on the ring. This would add up to a detectable amount of slack. In addition There is probably some additional slack caused by the internal gearing but that would vary with wear. Every one with a bike with a SA gear hub should have the privilege of disassembling one to see the unique mechanism that drives their bike.



   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:  Sturmey Archer A.W. hubs (older style) posted by Dale Oswald on 10/24/2001 at 4:20:12 PM
Hmmm...
1. Hard to tell if your engagement distance is abnormal or not. If it only happens on an upshift and it sounds like it wasn't quite done shifting right away, you may want to check your indicator chain (outside) or the sliding clutch bushing (inside) for wear/binding.
2. It's best to shift a hub gear like a derailleur; keep pedals turning but more slowly. It reduces the impact on ratchet pawls, sliding clutch and planet pinions when you take up power.
3. NEVER use Three-In-One brand oil on anything external. It's mineral (not petroleum) based and is quite water soluble. Exception: they used to sell a "motor" oil in a blue can that was real petroleum - don't know if it's still available. You can probably get away with the regular 3I1 inside the hub, but why use anything but good oil in such a great product? Oh, you don't need expensive designer oil, just anything that's petrol based.

     Sturmey Archer A.W. hubs (older style) posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/27/2001 at 6:58:58 PM
Use Singer sewing machine oil for the hub. It says "bicycle gears" on the label.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1947 Raleigh Sports posted by: Scott Ebersole on 10/19/2001 at 4:02:21 AM

I have a 1947 Raleigh Sports. It has a working front dynohub that lights both front headlamp and rear taillight. The saddle is a Brooks B73 with black painted springs. The gear is a Sturmey Archer AW with an extra long “flick” trigger control mounted under the handlebar instead of on top. The Raleigh Heron on the head tube is a decal rather than a badge. It has a full chaincase that is in very good condition with no missing pieces. The rims (32/40) are very nicely embossed “Dunlop EA3 Made in England UK Pat 266486” and it has stainless steel spokes. The bottom bracket has a threaded oilier. The decal on the down tube says “The All Steel Bicycle” in small sized letters. The decal on the seat tube says Raleigh Sports. It has a nicely scripted Raleigh on the full chaincase.The SA gear cable pulley is a steel clamp- on. The lamp bracket is on the stem binder bolt. The front lamp has black housing with a chrome ring. The rear lamp is very small with black housing and red lens. The fork ends are squashed and slotted or what Raleigh referred to as one-piece fork ends. This bike shows signs of having been used quite a bit but appears to have been cared for. It had been hanging up in the basement of a bike shop for the last 20 years. It was covered with oily dust and had light surface rust on all chrome parts. I spent a good deal of time cleaning and adjusting this bicycle. It did clean up very well, especially the chrome on the Sturmey Archer AW hub and Sturmey Archer front Dynohub . The AW hub has no date markings on it. This would coordinate with Sheldon Brown’s statement of not seeing dates on SA hubs previous to the late 40’s. The SA Dynohub is marked GH6 46 12.
The real mystery is the front fender. The fender stay construction and shape are identical with other Raleigh front fenders from that era. However, it is shorter in the area in front of the brake. This section in front of the brake is tapered but not as extreme as traditional. It has a ceer ridge but no silver bullet on the front. I fear it may not be original and would be interested in any comments. I thought at one time that this may have had something to do with war or early post war construction but I just do not know. The rear fender looks original and has a Raleigh Heron decal just above the rear reflector. The rear reflector is in great shape.
I think of this bike as a 1947 based on the date located on the Dynohub and its many other details that point to this time period.. This Raleigh Sports is not a Superbe. I am not sure if back then when a customer ordered upgrades such as a Dynohub or a Brooks 73 saddle if it came from the factory that way or was upgraded at the shop from which it was purchased. If the ladder were true I guess the bicycle’s exact year would be harder to pinpoint. The serial number does not match up on any published lists I have seen but either did another Raleigh I had which gave every indication it was original and had matching dates of 51 on both the front Dynohub and rear hub.
I recently purchased on E-Bay a 1947 Raleigh Catalogue (England Version). It has been a helpful source of information. To my surprise I see another catalogue exactly like mine listed on Ebay item #1019827802. This one is in the UK and is stamped 1947/1948. The seller claims this was the first post WW2 catalogue. If this is true this would indicate a slow start up after the war and may indicate the 1946/1947 season was a time of limited production.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1947 Raleigh Sports posted by Ben on 10/19/2001 at 11:41:04 PM
The only thing not mentioned is the brakes, but I am assuming with 26" tires they are cable operated...

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1947 Raleigh Sports posted by Scott Ebersole on 10/20/2001 at 5:09:19 AM
Yes, the brakes are cable operated and are the older style Raleigh-made brakes that use special cables which have moulded ends on both ends of the cables.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1947 Raleigh Sports posted by Esteban on 10/20/2001 at 5:44:40 AM
On the left side of the bike, check the outer ridge of the hub. Did all pre-war SA hubs list the date here? This is the case on my old Phillips, with a "36" stamped on this spot (in between spoke holes) of an AW-8.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1947 Raleigh Sports posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/20/2001 at 5:41:59 PM
This is the number of spoke holes the hub shell has. They did this to let you (and the factory folk too, I suppose) know without counting the holes. You need a rim with the same # of holes. This is the spoke drilling number. The Dynohubs and gear dynohubs and regular hubs have this. Some 3 speed hubs are drilled for 28 spokes others 36 others 40.
Dates are never stamped on the edges, rather on the face of the hub.
Alloy shell Sturmey Archer hubs are great and my favorites they are 1/3 lighter than the steel hub shells, look cool and the pawls make a diffrent sound.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1947 Raleigh Sports posted by Scott Ebersole on 10/20/2001 at 5:42:25 PM
This SA AW hub has 40 stamped in-between left side spoke holes and has 32 stamped in-between left side spoke holes on front Dynohub. This I believe is a reference not to the year but a reference to total number of spoke holes in the hub.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1947 Raleigh Sports posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/20/2001 at 5:56:05 PM
You are correct.






AGE / VALUE:   TCW finally biting the dust??? posted by: Ben on 10/19/2001 at 3:58:26 AM
I have heard Sheldon and others mention the unreliability of the TCW hub. Mine began to skip in second gear yesterday...is this a sign that this hub is not long for the world??

Thanks in advance,

Ben


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   TCW finally biting the dust??? posted by Ben on 10/23/2001 at 2:11:39 AM
Never mind, it was just loose axle nut.






AGE / VALUE:   Finding English Bikes posted by: Dale Oswald on 10/18/2001 at 4:37:08 PM
I'm having a hard time finding a bike. I'm located in Rochester, NY. I'm looking for a serviceable, good quality three speed, meaning Schwinn or Brit, for an expatirate Brit friend. Needs to be 21" or larger frame. I'm not willing to spend a lot of money on it (under $40 preferred).

I've been checking out the thrift stores; have been to four of them. No luck. I don't have a local transfer station. I've checked out garage sales if I happen to wander by and have watched the Rochester classifieds. I did find a GC Schwinn that needs cleanup and tires for $65, but that's more than I care to spend.

I want a bike that's underpriced, so EBay and the shops are right out.

My theory is that places like Boston, which had a lot of Sports-types, probably have an abundance of old three speeds. It surprises me that Rochester doesn't, it's consistently been an economically strong area for a long time, thank you Kodak and Xerox.

So where else can I look?

Glad I got my Superbe when I did (1988).


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Finding English Bikes posted by JimW. on 10/18/2001 at 11:11:29 PM
Rochester has at least one college that I know of (RIT). That's the best part of town to look for citybikes. It's not much of a stretch to imagine that a lot of them are left behind at student housing dorms at the end of the school year. My urban beater is a Ross Eurotour. It's a
3-speed, almost identical to the typical Raleigh item, except for Shimano bits instead of Sturmey. I got mine at
Salvation Army in NYC for about $30, in excellent shape. It's tough and nice-riding. The colour is feces brown, which
lets me save money by using a cheaper lock. If it had any rust, I could use a piece of string with a complicated knot in it for securing it.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Finding English Bikes posted by Kevin C. on 10/19/2001 at 3:13:44 AM
The local university here cuts the locks on abandoned bikes about once a semester. They sell anything and everything for $10. Most are junk, or have bent wheels, but I have seen decent three-speeds and I recently got a handmade English Carlton road bike from the pile. If you live in a college town you might inquire about its salvage operation.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Finding English Bikes posted by GMP on 10/19/2001 at 8:10:50 AM
I have been told that the police periodically auction or sell unclaimed cars/bikes/motorcycles etc. I never pursued this avenue myself as I imagine most of these items were recovered from thieves, and I didn't much care for the notion of trying to explain to the original owner, on the improbable occasion of a chance meeting, how I acquired his or her bicycle. However, it is my understanding that many bicycle shops selling used machines acquire them in this fashion. I would guess that any police officer could point you in the right direction. Just tell your friend not to lose the receipt! Good luck.






AGE / VALUE:   1960's Phillips Fleet Wing posted by: Kelley on 10/17/2001 at 2:13:42 AM
I have a 60's vintage (I think) Phillips bicycle,
Fleet Wing model, made in England. Does anyone
know how to verify when it was made? Serial # is
K636682. Would be interesting to know more about
the history of this company. The bike is really
well made, and is in real good condition, and I'm
wondering about its value also.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   1960's Phillips Fleet Wing posted by Esteban on 10/17/2001 at 8:51:28 PM
Information on Phillips is difficult to come by. Check Sheldon Brown's page:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/english-3.html#phillips

John Pinkerton in the UK may also be helpful: pinkertn@mwfree.net

Hopefully, you bike is pre-1960. If not, that's fine in my opinion. I have a pre-war Phillips, and a 1968 Raleigh-made model. They are both, of course, a pleasure to ride. Have a great time on it!


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   1960's Phillips Fleet Wing posted by Esteban on 10/17/2001 at 8:55:03 PM
Information on Phillips is difficult to come by. Check Sheldon Brown's page:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/english-3.html#phillips

John Pinkerton in the UK may also be helpful: pinkertn@mwfree.net

Hopefully, you bike is pre-1960. If not, that's fine in my opinion. I have a pre-war Phillips, and a 1968 Raleigh-made model. They are both, of course, a pleasure to ride. Have a great time on it!


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   1960's Phillips Fleet Wing posted by Jeff on 10/18/2001 at 12:14:48 AM
To date your Phillips, look at your rear hub and it should have a code stamped in it like 56 7 -- which would mean July of 1956. Look at the head badge and see if it says Birmingham or Nottingham. The Birmingham bikes were made prior to Raleigh buying them up. Also look at where the rear fender stay attaches to the drop-outs. If they are behind the axle, it's a Raleigh-built Phillips. If they are above the axle, it's probably an original Phillips. Judging by the serial number, my guess would be it's a mid to late 50's bike.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   1960's Phillips Fleet Wing posted by Kelley on 10/18/2001 at 4:24:34 PM
Thanks so much for your help - I checked the code stamp
on the hub - it is a 57 6. That means I was 8 or 9 when
I got it. My older brother, whom I hadn't seen in 3 decades,
kept it all these years, and it was so cool to see it again.
Surely if I had taken the bike when I grew up, I would have
lost it due to my many moves over the years, and my youthful
lack of appreciation for "vintage" items. I spent the day
cleaning and polishing it - looks like new almost.
Thanks again for your help.






AGE / VALUE:   Wet leaves everywhere posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/16/2001 at 8:20:59 PM
Watch out for wet leaves on pavment, they are very slippery.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Wet leaves everywhere posted by Rudgematch on 10/16/2001 at 9:41:02 PM
Not only wet leaves, but now it's time for smashed pumpkin chunks! They can be even worse. Accursed little teenaged imps!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Wet leaves everywhere posted by Ray on 10/17/2001 at 7:53:11 PM
Falling leaves really pose another danger. If you ride off road or other areas with heavy leaf dropings you really need to watch out for pot holes (large and small) or large roots and rocks. They can be camouflaged or buried by the leaves. Thanks to my helmet I can tell you first hand about my introduction into a tree trunk by means of a large root buried under a pile of leaves.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Wet leaves everywhere posted by Michaelw on 10/24/2001 at 11:09:22 AM
Its also the time of year that acorns and nuts can drop on you from a not inconsiderable height. I was almost taken out by a bouncing acorn once.






AGE / VALUE:   Rudge booklet on E- bay posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/16/2001 at 8:05:32 PM
This is a nice catalog, I love the colors offered. E- bay item #101907232 Bicycle Advertisement booklet 1950 Rudge
No relation to seller.







AGE / VALUE:   BSA Bike posted by: Tom on 10/16/2001 at 1:16:30 AM
Is there any way I can tell how old a BSA 28" single speed bike is. The guy I got it from says it may be a 1930's. There is no date codes on it anywhere. It is in excellent shape. It has the old brownish red paint with black undercoating. All the parts are BSA and it has a Wrights saddle. No headbadge but a decal instead. Serial# H55655


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   BSA Bike posted by Ian on 10/16/2001 at 9:11:02 AM
Tom, in my experience with BSA's bikes with headbadges are older than bikes with decals. Without going back to research it if memory serves me correctly they stopped making 28" wheel bikes about '56 and stopped using headbadges about '52.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Eastern Roadsters posted by: Bill on 10/16/2001 at 12:08:15 AM
I've noticed that every Bicycle seen on the on the roads in third world countries looks very much like the Raleigh DL-1 and other European roadsters of the past. Did Raleigh sell the dies and blue prints for the DL-1 to one of these countries, and are any of the parts adequate as replacement parts for a Raleigh ? One can buy these, new complete bike for $100.00! Using the parts would save someone many Dollars fixing up a English roadster. I know this would not be pure and correct but it seems like an option to bring a basket case back to a rider without spending lots of money.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Eastern Roadsters posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/16/2001 at 12:52:11 AM
How many of us can balance a long bunch of wooden building trusses while steering the Raleigh Tourist D.L.1.? I saw this guy on the news, he had both hands on the handlebars! Lets carry livestock,matresses, firewood and everything else, including the kitchen sink and give a prize to whomever finishes the course at the next Britbike get together. I can just imagine everybody walking funny afterwards with sprains and dislocated discs! Raleigh exported to all kinds of countries starting in the early 1900's and this bike was/is everywhere since. It is well loved and tried. Raleigh and others set up factories in some places and they made these there and then some of these companies changed hands and they continued to be made under diffrent names. There were diffrent companies making almost the same model with diffrent badges, chainwheels, seats but essentially the same machine.
Sheldon and the gang here can explain it better.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Eastern Roadsters posted by sam on 10/16/2001 at 2:29:54 AM
Some are raleighs , some are Phillips,some are Hercules.Most of the industry in India was set up by the British.There all still made there.Single speed.And yes you can use the parts to keep riding a basket case roadester.It's done every day in countries where they balance a load on there bikes for a living,not for a contest.---sam

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Eastern Roadsters posted by sam on 10/16/2001 at 3:26:09 AM
Sorry Chris,Didn't mean to take a hit at you on the contest thing--I see those people and feel so lucky to be able to buy a bike just for fun---sam

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Eastern Roadsters posted by Kevin C. on 10/16/2001 at 2:50:40 PM
Along those lines, I just got a book called "The Bicycle In Wartime: An Illustrated History" by Jim Fitzpatrick. There are some great photos of the Vietcong using their old roadsters to haul big bags of rice, weapons, ammunition, even wounded soldiers. They would put a stick in the seat tube, tie another stick to the handlebars, and convert a bicycle into a pushcart that would carry hundreds of pounds. It's really interesting to see what a major role the bicycle had during 35 years of waging war against the Japanese, French and Americans.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Eastern Roadsters posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/16/2001 at 7:17:02 PM
The bike is a workhorse, the people innovative with what they have at hand.
I agree with what Sam said. Seeing all sorts of things
carried on this bike and reading about Mr. Honda putting motors on Japanese versions of the bike and that being the foundation of Honda Motor is interesting. The motor running on pine tree root extract took the cake.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Eastern Roadsters posted by Joel on 10/16/2001 at 8:09:19 PM
I saw a guy ride past my house in the rain on a 10 speed carrying 3 full garbage bags of scrap metal on his back, a pile of aluminum siding over one sholder (some pieces > 10 ft long), and smoking a cigerette.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Eastern Roadsters posted by sam on 10/17/2001 at 1:17:48 AM
Read on the web that in India they still make the motor atchment for 28"bikes.Wish someone would import them.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Eastern Roadsters posted by VVVintage Vintage Bicycles at OldRoads.com on 10/18/2001 at 1:39:41 PM
We just bought out the inventory of a shop which sold Avon and Forever roadsters. Haven't had a chance to see how the rod brake parts match up to genuine English models because we don't have a rod brake roadster in inventory right now.

Did we buy a pig in a poke, or did we get a good supply of aftermarket rod brake parts? Thoughts anyone?

-Vin

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Eastern Roadsters posted by JimW. on 10/18/2001 at 11:26:01 PM
On the topic of carrying lots of stuff on a bike. http://xtracycle.com
has an attachment which mounts on any 26" bike frame. It
relocates the rear wheel 15" to the rear and adds cargo racks to the sides and a plywood load deck above. They show
a guy hauling a load of stuff that would fill the back of a Japanese pickup truck. Incredible! They also show it hauling
sailboards, dogs, passengers, groceries, etc. We're covering it in the next BikeRod&Kustom. It goes for $350, and only adds 5 pounds weight to the bike, minus the cargo.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Eastern Roadsters posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/19/2001 at 1:37:10 AM
I'll bet with some doing you could alter this so it works with the 28 inch Raleigh Tourist wheel. That would be something!

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Eastern Roadsters posted by Jorge on 10/20/2001 at 2:06:10 AM
You don't have to go that far, just 80 miles

from the good ol'usa there's thousands of

British looking bikes, with rod breaks and

all, and very well made I've heard, and they

sell new for under 100 bucks, and that's

called Havana, Cuba, problem is that there's

an embargo with Cuba, witch I think is ridiculous

after experiencing the incidents of the past month.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Eastern Roadsters posted by Bob True on 10/20/2001 at 5:27:10 AM
For those of you who like web surfin and Third World Bicycles from India that look like old Raleighs you can go to http://www.trade-india.com/ Click on the "exporters yellow pages" link and then do a search for bicycles. You'd be amazed at all the companies that make bikes and parts that look like Raleigh Sports and old Roadsters complete with full chaincases. They all appear to be single speed (no Sturmey Archer hubs here) and all steel. It's not clear if one could buy one of these bikes from India via the Internet (or if you'd really want to.) I believe Nick Nichols at Rockfish Products has sold some of these in the past and may have some knowledge of them. His website is at http://leys.com/basic/rockfish






AGE / VALUE:   Another victim of the brush or can posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/16/2001 at 12:26:11 AM
E- bay item #1018932564 Rare B.S.A. folding bicycle unusal
It's at $250.00 with one bidder so far.
Somebody painted it sky blue!! It's supposed to be olive drab.
Silver paint over the wheels and hubs too.
These are great bikes! Suddenly the room is spinning and I don't feel so well.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Another victim of the brush or can posted by Jeff on 10/16/2001 at 1:53:31 AM
I found one of these at an auction many years ago. It was painted all black and was bolted in an old windtrainer. They advertised it as an old exersize bike and I got it for $8.00. I sold it to a military bicycle collector and probably should have hung on to it.






AGE / VALUE:   It's here to stay. posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/16/2001 at 12:16:23 AM
It was $10.00 but the fellow wants to see it when it is done, I agreed.







AGE / VALUE:   It's back! Easy Chris, Easy.It's just spray paint. posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/16/2001 at 12:03:09 AM
The fellow actually called back! His wife wanted it out of the garage,(Bless her sweet heart!) he had my number, the other guy wouldn't touch it with the spray paint, he didn't want to e- bay it and my dedication amazed him. So it now sits in the garage slathered in evil, black, spray paint. Non- origonal Scwwinn wheels and all. The best thing is the Ashby "Princip" rear rack with fold down type drop stand. It's for 26 inch wheel though but that's ok. I have it covered over so it doesn't drive my crazy looking at it.
Watch Commisioner Dreyfus( Herbert Lom) in the Pink Panther series as his eyes twitch, and he makes weird noises and goes looney. That's me when I see amatuer/house paint jobs on nice vintage machines.
I'll find decals and have it re- done.


   RE:AGE / VALUE: posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/16/2001 at 8:17:42 PM
I hate it when the paint chips as I turn nuts to loosen bolts. Trying to get paint out of the slots in the screws and getting these parts of it.The rims are 26 x 1.75 with a really cheap, awful front hub.
Why would anybody make sure to spray the chain relly well?






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1957 Robin Hood posted by: seege on 10/15/2001 at 10:15:31 PM
Currently restoring a 1957 Women's Robin Hood. It's cleaning up real nice, but the grips were obviously not original. What would have been stock for the hand grips on this model? Also, I'm trying to take the pedals apart to clean them, and the metal bracket on the outside seems like it wants to come off, but no go, I can't get the foot blocks out for a good cleaning. Any suggestions appreciated!


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1957 Robin Hood posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/16/2001 at 12:35:34 AM
The grips have a capital R and a I. The R is over the I and it stands for Raleigh Industries. Greyish grips. There is a variety of possible origonal grips for this.What color is this bike?

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1957 Robin Hood posted by seege on 10/16/2001 at 4:42:33 PM
Black would be the color. Any leads where I might be able to find NOS for something like this? I found some older classic black plastic handles on ebay that'll do, but it'd be nice to get it back to (as much) original as possible. Thanks for the info!