OldRoads.com

This is an archive of Vintage Bicycle Information.
For current Discussions, go to our main site: OldRoads.com

If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.

If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.

Archived: English Roadsters







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Wheel repair posted by: Brian on 10/30/2001 at 9:53:37 PM
I picked up a ladies 1974 Sport this past weekend. Front tire was flat and tube was full of water [?!]. Took off tire/tube and noticed several small holes on inside rim--due to rust. There seems to be loose [rust/metal]particles "floating" around inside rim-you can hear the noise. Any tricks to get this debris out? I can be adventurous as bike was a freebie. Thank you in advance.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Wheel repair posted by Edward in Vancouver on 10/31/2001 at 3:58:22 AM
I know, the sound drives you crazy, the spinning sounds of time...Go down to Home Despot or a wood finishing shop and get Oxalic acid crystals. This is a wood bleach, also used in the boating industry as a rust remover. It is very mild, when mixed with water it only eats rust, and is safe to use on clothing to remove rust stains. Experiment with different concentrations, and then get yourself a big needle. Fill the needle with the acid and inject it in the little holes in the rim. Spin the rim around a little and let it rest for a day or two, then drain. You might have to repeat this a few times. While this process may be a pin in the butt, it removes the rust/crud. An easier way would to be to exchange a WD40 spray noozle with a hairspray can, and inject the hairspray into the rim. This is basically a fixitive, and will eventually loosen up again.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Wheel repair posted by brian on 11/3/2001 at 10:57:55 AM
Thank you very much! I will try it out.






MISC:   Front rim slides on the axle/hub. posted by: Pat. on 10/30/2001 at 2:08:10 PM
I'm not sure who to ask and feel lucky that I found this site. I recently got an early 70's Raleigh Sport. I was fixing it up to get it road ready. It was very easy to work on until I couldn't remove the front rim. I then turned the bike upside down and the tire rolled right off. I changed the tire and returned the rim to the forks. The rim now slides back and forth on the hub/axle. What is going on? Can anyone give me some advice/help. I don't want to ruin anything.

- pat.


   RE:MISC:   Front rim slides on the axle/hub. posted by pat. on 10/30/2001 at 3:59:08 PM
Figured out some more stuff and I don't think I have damaged anything. If anyone knows where I can get a good resource about the care of this gem I would appreciate it. Does anyone know what is the best grease/oil to put in the hub? This is the kind of info I'm looking for.
Thanks - pat.

   RE:MISC:   Front rim slides on the axle/hub. posted by Phil on 10/30/2001 at 8:00:23 PM
There are sometimes inner nuts with flat sides on Raleighs. Make sure the flat sides face inward.

For oil - 3 drops of sewing machine or other light mineral oil.

   RE:MISC:   Front rim slides on the axle/hub. posted by dafydd_williams@yahoo.com on 10/30/2001 at 9:26:57 PM
I have 70s Raleigh Sport as well, lots of fun and it'll make a good beater. Do you mean the wheel/hub slides sideways along the axle? If that's the case, your cones (which hold your bearing in place) are probably loose (good chance you lost some bearings as well). Sheldon Brown has good info on this at:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/english-3.html#fronthub
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html

You literally can surf his site for hours, so check it out.

In terms of lubrication (for front hub ONLY), I used grease because I don't have a problem tearing it down and building it back up occasionally. I'm sure somebody's going to tell me otherwise after reading this, but I'm still learning, so that's fine.

   RE:MISC:   Front rim slides on the axle/hub. posted by sam on 10/30/2001 at 11:31:58 PM
I too have yet to get the nerve to open a rear hub,one day I will.Both hubs take grease when rebuilding then a drop or three each month to keep the grease from drying out,this will keep your bike humming like a sewing machine.And english bikes have those nuts that catch in the fork and keep the wheel from dropping out so you have to spread the fork a small bit to get them on and off.






AGE / VALUE:   Yes, I did! posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/29/2001 at 10:38:38 PM
I took a spin around the block afer listening to him congratulate me on a really good find on this $10.00 Trek hybrid mountain bike with 26 X 1 .50 wheels
Tires are expensive, great shape, silver color, triple chainring, gel seat and a confortable long neck handlebar. I took it home and what did I do?
I ran and got a allen wrench and unhooked all this shifter junk and brakes and I put that wonderful, long stem and awesome bars on my Raleigh Gazelle and I fitted the 3 speed shifter and I'm delighted because it fits and it's all ready to go.
It was a great bike but all I wanted was those handlebars. I'll take it back and give him the rest and he's gonna say "Oh, Chris you didn't!!"


   RE:AGE / VALUE: Yes I did, I'm doing it again too    posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/30/2001 at 11:48:14 PM
Now I want to pull all this triple chainwheel cranks and bottom bracket stuff out and get it into one of the old Raleigh's. I'll have to go spindle hunting at home instead of at the shop as I bought the whole wall full of spindles! This way, I won't have to go back. I'll bet it just won't pop in and work. It may not fit with that small triple inner ring it'll probably rub the chainstay as the bike was meant for a 3 speed hub. I took another look at the long alloy cranks. they're Sakai. Brake levers are long heavy duty type and alloy and cables are extra thick.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Yes I did, I'm doing it again too    posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/31/2001 at 6:38:12 PM
It's a Trek 890 or at least it was before I got ahold of it. Now it's a doner bike.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hercules three- speed posted by: Damien Bower on 10/29/2001 at 1:53:13 AM
I'm new to the world of old English bikes. I found a Hercules in the alley, cleaned it up and have been riding it regularly. It's a pleasant surprise how practical it is.
It looks like it had not been ridden more than ten miles
and then left to rust quietly away. Any information that
anyone can provide would be greatly appreciated. I can't even find the serial number.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hercules three- speed posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/29/2001 at 3:54:23 PM
Even if you found it on the bike it would be useless as we only have serial numbers for some of the Raleigh bicycles. Hercules Cycle and Motor Co.made bicycles in Birmingham, England until they merged with Raleigh in 1960. The origonal Hercules bikes said Birmingham on the head badge. The badges were thicker and there is a wonderful page on "English 3 Speeds" at http://www.Sheldonbrown.com check it all out. A Raleigh made Hercules bike will have a thin green badge on it and say Nottingham, England on it. If you get into these you'll recognize the diffrent Raleigh and Hercules/ Phillips parts such as bottombracket parts, headsets and the diffrent threadings. If this has the Hercules 3 speed rear hub than it is an origonal Hercules made bike. If it has a Sturmey Archer rear hub than it is made by Raleigh who bought up and merged with a lot of other companies. After that happened Raleigh took to making the others bicycles themselves. Badges, decals, some of the chainwheels were put on basically the B- grade line of Nottingham,(Raleigh) made bikes. These are nice bikes, parts are out there if needed. They offer parts for sale here as does Sheldon Brown and others.There is a growing number of folks who take to these and appreciate them as you have.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Hercules three- speed posted by dave on 10/30/2001 at 2:46:12 PM
Tell us more about the bike and parts -- if a Hercules hub what is it an A or B series? Plain chainrings or with and "H" motif or Hercules spelled out? Hercumatic or Sturmey Archer shifter? What kind of decals?
I think that there are "real" Hercules made hubs and then Sturmey Archer Hubs inside a shell that is labeled Hercules. Do the pedals have the Raleigh logo or say Hercules?

Cool bikes in any case.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Hercules three- speed posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/31/2001 at 7:10:45 PM
I would love to see a page really covering Hercules. Before and after Raleigh took it over. All the diffrent models, catalogs, something really in depth. It would be great.






AGE / VALUE:   Strang rod brake bike on ebay posted by: sam on 10/29/2001 at 1:36:44 AM
Must see - strange rod brake bike on ebay(no mine etc.)#1024636175







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Harry Quinn posted by: Jeff on 10/29/2001 at 1:00:53 AM
I am glad to see a site devoted to those of us that enjoy vintage cycles. I have a Harry Quinn, (if you don't find this amusing, say this very phrase in a crowded mall). My Quinn is a 1977 Team Mercury Frame purchased covertly from a team member touring the U.S in 1979. It is full Campagnolo Super Record from 1984. The Frame is 75 degree, and 37 1/2 wheelbase. I rode it on 2 centuries, riding most of the time no-handed. I welcome all enquiries on Quinns and have a little info. Being nostalgic in a modern world is hard for us, Wal-mart just does not cut it for my bike needs. I used to use Bike-Nashbar and I'm sure Arnie Nashbar is retired somewhere due to my constant need for parts. I have a pretty good recall of the '80's and welcome any questions.







AGE / VALUE:   I didn't see as many posted by: sam on 10/29/2001 at 12:32:31 AM
On my trip to Mexico I didn't see as many rod brake roadesters as I did 20 years ago.That's not to say I didn't see any just not as many.The riders were all most always old men(the yonger guys were on L/Ws from USA and some mountain bikes).And the roadesters were always going at a slow but steady pace.Their cranks seem to spin slower and smoother even when your just lookin at them.The bike I saw the most was those 3-wheel pedal trucks.How do they carry so much and in traffic too.I had troble driving a car but the pedal trike guys passed me by!Found a good bike shop that sold a bit of everything.Had triks-mountainbikes cruzers-rod brake roadesters -low rider and frames for all types.bought some tires and a heavy duty carrier.Wish I could have stayed longer at that shop but maybe better I didn't---sam







AGE / VALUE:   Strange posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/28/2001 at 5:33:58 PM
I have never seen a N.O.S. boxed Dynohub G.H.6 set go so high on e- bay. This topped out at 235.49! It was from the 1970's
Also the Sturmey Archer F.M. hub went to $265.00 and didn't meet the reserve. There's one more still up.
A used A.W. hub for like $17.00? I had a guy tell me to get all the used hubs I can. I thought he was nuts, now I'm not so sure.



   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Strange posted by Robert on 10/28/2001 at 8:17:03 PM
Pretty well took my breath away.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Strange posted by Andrew on 10/29/2001 at 12:49:39 PM
I guess I'mm luckier then I think. Purchased a good used 1973 Dynohub & lights on ebay three weeks ago for $62.00, and thought that was pricey, but I'm happy after hearing the asking price of these items, a bike shop in Mass had a Dynohub setup for $175.00! It may take a little time but one can find them for way under $100.00






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   More converting... posted by: Edward in Vancouver on 10/28/2001 at 5:22:10 PM
A while back, I picked up a beat-up S.A. drum brake plate that looked like it came out of an AB hub (AW /drumbrake).
I got the brake re-lined and stuck it in a my FG hub. It does fit, but not perfectly. I haven't had the opportunity
to have a close look at an AB hub, but it seems the cavity where the brake fits in is shallower and slightly chamfered as opposed to the cavity for the dyno-hub which seems
larger. I feel that I should shim up the brake plate by
placing a washer on the cone, where the brake plate sits
Anyone know where I can a blow-up diagram of an AB hub?
Regards, Edward in Vancouver


   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   More converting... posted by Edward in Vancouver on 10/30/2001 at 3:09:34 PM
Thanks for the info,I printed out the schematic. The only major problem I can forsee is the left cone. The shank on the AB is longer and the dustcap is flanged. This is to stop oil from the hub from seeping into the brake cavity. The S.A. manual says to coat this cap with a sealant just to make sure. The left cone on my FG has a plain, flat dust cap, and the shank is a good 1/8'' shorter.

I took this problem to a local "Guru", a 80 odd year old ex-bike racer (early 50's Olympics and various Commonwealth games)who just grinned at me at took me to his garage. From an old desk drawer he pulled out a coffee can of hubs, fished the proper one out, and gave it to me. The garage was crammed to the rafters with bikes, first time I ever saw a a bike with a three speed built into the bottom bracket-it was massive. He also had an early Pope bicycle--wood rims,driveshaft where the right chainstay should be, and a "rear suspension" bit where the seatstays bolted to the seatpost. I was in heaven. "Ace", the ex-racer is razor sharp, and spouts out information like an encyclopedia.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   More converting... posted by dafydd_williams@yahoo.com on 10/28/2001 at 10:29:01 PM
Try http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/'hadland/samaintind.htm

pdfs for the diagrams ofmost if not all SA hubs. They print out very well.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Lampert lightweigt posted by: allan on 10/27/2001 at 4:56:47 PM
picked up a lampert bicycle,would like to find somthing out about it,cant fin a serial number,its white all the parts are lampert,anyone have any info on lampert bikes?


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Lampert lightweigt posted by Sheldon Brown on 10/28/2001 at 1:02:50 AM
See: http://sheldonbrown.com/lambert.html

Sheldon Brown






WANTED:   BINGO...kinda posted by: Dale Oswald on 10/26/2001 at 4:20:54 PM
Thanks to all for the hints on finding bikes.

I finally found a bike, which might be suitable, for my friend; a Schwinn three speed of AW vintage. It's a ladies' frame, but my guess is with that wheelbase, it should handle ok even with a long seatpost. Fair condition; some rust on the rims, but the price was right: free. I put it in the back of the wagon in the dark, will take a better look at it tonight. If it doesn't work out for him, I'll use it for my "keep at work" bike and take the Argyle home. Or make a recumbent out of it... (jeez is that all you ever think about?) (No, dear, I dream of mint condition mid-50s Superbes too).







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Roadster Brakes and S5 hub conversion posted by: Lane on 10/24/2001 at 11:54:45 PM
I have just purchased my first Raleigh Tourister/Roadster , a 1975, and have been unsuccessful in getting much braking power out of the rear brake. I have gotten the adjustment directions and tried several times. I wold like to know if this is normal or if a there is a trick to it. Second, I hae a S5.1 hub and wondered if someone has swapped one into this kind of bike and is it a good fit. Thanks


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Roadster Brakes and S5 hub conversion posted by Albert on 10/26/2001 at 11:32:12 AM
The S5 internals will fit the AW shell; it's an easy replacement/upgrade. However, I question the need. Having used both the SA 3 and 5 speed hubs for general utility cycling, I find the 3-speed, when used with suitable gearing, to be perfectly adequit and easier to shift and keep in proper adjustment

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Roadster Brakes and S5 hub conversion posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/26/2001 at 2:55:29 PM
I went from a 3 speed A.W. to a S/5-2 and I enjoyed having the extra 2 gears. It was an improvement.It opened up riding the bike longer distances for me, and I lent the bike to a pal to go to work on and he liked the gear set up. I thought the Sturmey-Archer alloy levers were heavy and ugly and the system took getting used to. I never switched these control levers because it is spaced to match the hub.It goes click, click, click, evenly spaced in each slot. I stay away from the first one, the S- 5. Fussy to adjust in my opinion. I don't like the bell crank set up. I skiped over the S-5-1 in favor of the S/ 5- 2. The 5 star hub I don't know, I never used it. What I used was the one with the two 3 speed type indicator chains.This was the more trouble- less set up.
What I recommend is buying the Sturmey-Archer F.M. four speed medium ratio hub listed on e- bay. There are two offered right now. Yes, it will get a bit expensive, but it is worth it. There is a F.W.Four speed hub listed too and that is the Wide ratio four speed hub. Or better yet, if you have a lightweight 27 inch wheel bike than put the F.M. hub in that as this hub is intended for this type bike. I put an alloy shell F.M. in the rear wheel rim of my 28 X 1 1/2 Raleigh Tourist with a 22 tooth sprocket and I rode the thing all over, everywhere. I could fly along pretty fast and I had a wonderful, low gear for hills and you can put any sprocket you choose on this from a 14 tooth all the way to 24 but you probably would not want to gear it like I did. Perhaps you would only want a 18 tooth cog. It made the thing into a wonderful commuter bike I really enjoy riding.
These are offered with the rare wing nuts and the right shifter and properly adjusted, these are awesome hubs.
You cannot switch the F.M. internals into a basic 3 speed A.W. hub shell. You have to have a wheel builder switch the whole shell and everything into your wheel rim and then the number of spoke holes have to be the same. The reason is that the ball cup in the F.M. is diffrent.You need a special, hard to find tool to remove this ball cup and even then it is threaded diffrently. You are able to put a F.W. four speed hub internals into a basic A.W. 3 speed hub shell if you find a F.W.
I have eight of these F.M. hubs in various bikes. I love em!

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Roadster Brakes and S5 hub conversion posted by Lane on 10/30/2001 at 11:09:02 PM
Thanks again for all the info My wheel is not bad but not perfect either so I will take your advise to true.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Roadster Brakes and S5 hub conversion posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/26/2001 at 3:13:42 PM
Both of the Sturmey- Archer four speeds have one trigger shifter on the handlebars instead of on the handlebar stem and Albert is right, it is easier/nicer to shift gears with the trigger shifter up on the handlebars.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Roadster Brakes and S5 hub conversion posted by edgar x on 10/26/2001 at 3:38:25 PM
I've ridden an S5.2 for about 15 years in a Ross Eurotour frame. Araya 26-1 3/8 alloy rims (yow!) Elite alloy hubs front (drum) and rear (started with a drum, but it didn't seem to have any seal between the oil bath and the brake section, worthless), found a NOS alloy model at a bike shop ($40, ha!). This one came with the alloy "paddle" shifters that seem to work really well, very strong detents. Don't mind reaching to shift as much as I thought I would. Two years ago I combined the .2 axle from the old drum Elite with a NOS S5 ($5, double ha!)and put the whole deal in my Schwinn cruiser's Sears (made by Sachs) Sturmey shell. Am using a shifter from a Raleigh Sprint on the handlebar stem. Greatest looking shifter ever, in my opinion. Detents aren't quite as strong, but I haven't had any slip-outs yet (5,000 plus miles). SA 5.2 RULES!

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Roadster Brakes and S5 hub conversion posted by Lane on 10/27/2001 at 10:30:11 PM
Thanks for the information. I'm doing this on the cheap, The hubs mentioned cost more than the DL1 bike, and will likely try the 5.1 since i have it. I have been usins a SA 5 in my sports for almost thirty years so I'm used to it.

Any Ideas on the brakes?

Thanks again

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   About that rear brake.... posted by Ben on 10/28/2001 at 4:06:54 PM
If you look under the bottom bracket you will find two things you can adjust - the down tube rod connection to the yoke and the screw adjustment built into the yoke. If there is play in the linkage (test for this by watching the yoke as you gently pull the lever...if the lever moves and the yoke doesn't) you can remove that play at the yoke linkage. After that, fine tune the pad position with the thumbscrew. Of course all of this depends on how close you can have the pads to the rim, which depends on how round the rim is. If the rim is out of round, you will never have good braking.






WANTED:   Lambert Death Fork Stickers posted by: Ray on 10/24/2001 at 8:56:10 PM
I am restoring a Lambert bicycle with the notorious Death Fork. I read all about it on Sheldon Brown's site and had to have one. I am nearing the end of the restoration but need the frame stickers. Since this is not a real popular bike and the likelyhood of a re-pop is out of the question I am looking for a possible source for them. Any help would be appreciated. I do not need the gold aircraft tubing sticker but do need the bands on the seat tube and the 2 Lambert stickers on the down tube.







AGE / VALUE:   Dunelt posted by: dan lenik on 10/24/2001 at 3:41:07 AM
My 88 yr. old neighbor gave me his 3 speed dunelt with a sturmey-archer rear hub dated 1-66. I would like book titles and messages about the company and its history. Also I need an original seat to make it complete. Thanks, Danno







WANTED:   Two left-side Williams crank arms posted by: Warren on 10/24/2001 at 1:21:10 AM
I need two 7 inch left crank arms for their respective mates. If anyone has one to spare please email me with a price or a request for parts to trade. Also, I once saw a date code for Williams parts but I seem to have lost it. Does anyone have a copy they can forward me? Thanks...


   RE:WANTED:   Two left-side Williams crank arms posted by Ian on 10/24/2001 at 7:17:14 AM
Warren, try www.classicrendevous.com/British/Williams nmbrs.htm. There is a space between Williams & nmbrs I think.I will check on the cranks when next I get in to my stores but the postage from here (New Zealand) might scare you. Will email you if I find them.

   RE:WANTED:   Two left-side Williams crank arms posted by Ian on 10/24/2001 at 7:34:37 AM
Sorry, there is an uderscore at the space. Try http://www.classicrendevous.com/British/Williams_nmbrs.htm I got there in the finish!

   RE:RE:WANTED:   Two left-side Williams crank arms posted by Warren on 10/26/2001 at 12:17:12 PM
Thank you...

   RE:WANTED:   Two left-side Williams crank arms posted by Jorge on 10/27/2001 at 1:17:50 AM
The specified server could not be found