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Archived: English Roadsters







AGE / VALUE:   E- bay item #1040764792 posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 11/30/2001 at 1:18:24 AM
Were looking at handlebars on the bike here! E- bay: C 1911 French Risque/nude w/ lady bicycle: Why it's described like this I dunno, because she is fully dressed! Risque? Perhaps because she is off the bike, on the ground with one leg up? That grin on her face? In 1911 France I guess that was risque. Anyways, she is long since dead and "God only knows" where the bike is now. Take a look at these handlebars on this bike. Are these a common bend turned upwards or are these something special? I wish I had handlebars like these on my bikes. I like the old pictures of bikes and riders because you see diffrent things on the bikes and the breathtakingly beautiful people but it bums me out to think they are long since dead. The ladies were more lovely back then.







MISC:   Follow-up on Headset Bearings posted by: Kyle on 11/29/2001 at 8:40:53 PM
I just wanted to follow up on an earlier post where I asked how many bearings were in a standard Raleigh (Humber) headset. The answer was 25 and when I took it apart there were 25 on top and 25 on bottom, with a little room to spare. Because the handlebars were binding, I took one bearing out of each side and put it back together. That solved the problem with binding but there was too much play in the forks so I put one back in the bottom (25) and left the top with 24. This is perfect, very little play, no binding. I took my wife's '67 Triumph's headset apart (to grease it) and there were 24 bearings top and bottom. So it looks like 24 or 25 both work, depending on the bike.







FOR SALE:   Ladies Dunelt, Gent's Triumph Tenerife posted by: Jim on 11/29/2001 at 7:21:34 PM
Ladies lightweight Dunelt SA tri-coaster, cable-op front caliper, 26x1 3/8, black, nice decals,condition is 7/10, "D" fork crown, black Brooks vinyl mattress saddle $55 + shipping. Gent's Triumph Tenerife, SA AW, green metallic, chrome plated mudguards, condition is 8-9/10, very original - right down to "corduroy" cable housings & lead cable ends, Brooks vinyl mattress saddle, $100 + shipping. Please email for photos. I use ebay regularly see my feedback under "jbanahan@msn.com" for a reference.







FOR SALE:   Norman posted by: MC on 11/27/2001 at 1:39:10 PM
Norman ladies 3 speed for sale. Early 60s era. Please make offer.







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   tyres posted by: frank on 11/27/2001 at 4:49:12 AM
I was at the local Walmart today strolling the bike section while the mother unit and kids were in the toys. I was looking at the tires(I dont get to go to the bike store much at all) the selection of 26x1 3/8 was small. i worry about buying tires that wont weather well. i did like the back walls and simple treads. the superbe I'm working on has old tires with two white pin stipes. they looked to have been high quality in their prime. also i wonder if i can get a higher pressure tire on the factory rims?
Just some simple questions for a man in shopping hell.

Frank


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   tyres posted by Dale on 11/27/2001 at 5:40:38 PM
I just bought a pair of Continental Top Touring tires, now available in EA3. This is a good sign, excellent quality tires available for our bikes. They're blackwalls. I personally would have liked gums, they replace an ORIGINAL Dunlop Sprite (1969) and a Raleigh Red Dot from the '70s. The Sprite's black tread rubber was worn through to the gum so I decided it was time. I also replaced the cloth rim strips, nostalgia is nice but the rubber strips are a clearly superior design (don't hold water & make rust).

The Conti's are nice, rated 70 psi. May they last *HALF* as long as the Sprite...

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   tyres posted by MichaelW on 11/29/2001 at 1:31:58 PM
Velox cloth rim tape is far from nostagic. Its the most effective rim tape and stays where its put. Perhaps the rust problem is not so apparent with Al rims.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   tyres posted by MichaelW on 11/29/2001 at 1:32:11 PM
Velox cloth rim tape is far from nostagic. Its the most effective rim tape and stays where its put. Perhaps the rust problem is not so apparent with Al rims.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   tyres posted by Albert on 11/29/2001 at 8:16:46 PM
Michael, I don't beleive it was Velox tape in question but rather an awful woven cotton tape that indeed did hold water and cause rusting. That type of tape along with the, usually found on the same vintage, all metal valve stems that were bolted to the inner-tube are a good riddance!

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   tyres posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 11/30/2001 at 1:37:29 AM
What is better, cloth or rubber rim strips? What is more cost effective? why did they use what they did?

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   tyres posted by Ben on 11/30/2001 at 2:47:59 AM
My Phillips has Dunlop rims that came with cotton rimstrips that were not Velox, and just had a little loop of steel that acted as a slipknot at the valve hole. I think this is whatAlbert is talking about.

Ben

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   tyres posted by Bill Putnam on 11/30/2001 at 6:48:28 PM
Harris Cylcery has several tires to choose from to fit the
3 speed British 590 mm rims.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/tires.html#590
The cloth rim strip originally supplied on many Raleigh
3 speeds is not nearly as good as the Velox rim strip,
IMHO.

I have alloy 590 mm rims on my sports, and run them at
85 psi. I would not try this with an original steel
rim as the steel rims don't hold as well as an aluminum
one will.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   tyres posted by Jeff Ray on 12/1/2001 at 1:31:54 PM
Kenda and Trisport make high presure tires and I use them on my 56 Triumph with Raleigh patern rims and on my 52 Indian Scout and 54 Norman with Dunlop EA3 rims. No problems.






AGE / VALUE:   German Coaster Hub What is it? posted by: Lane on 11/27/2001 at 1:49:23 AM
I have been looking in my junk box and pulled an unknown hub out. No lever arm present. It is marked GERMANY across body. Oiler hole in center. Body has slight shoulders leading to flanges. 36 hole heavy flange 2 1/8 on center measure. 2 1/2 inch diameter flange. 18 tooth Gear marked F&SC 040310 18Z 1/2 . Hub shines like crome and no rust or corrosion.
What is it? Help.

Thanks


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   German Coaster Hub What is it? posted by Jeff on 11/27/2001 at 1:53:10 AM
Fitchell & Sachs?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   German Coaster Hub What is it? posted by Dale on 11/27/2001 at 5:43:19 PM
Probably Sachs, they did make coaster hubs. With a squared end on the axil for easy bearing adjustment, right?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   German Coaster Hub What is it? posted by Lane on 11/27/2001 at 10:49:37 PM
10 points! It does indeed have the square end on the axle. I was going to put that in but forgot. Thanks for the info.
What kind of bicycle would it be used on and is someone interested in it?






MISC:   Winter is acomin posted by: ALBERT on 11/26/2001 at 8:24:21 PM
At this time of the year many of us who cycle-commute daily find our thoughts turning to rigors of winter cycling. We roadster enthusiasts are fortunate in that our cycles use an enclosed gear and are otherwise well suited for wintery weather.
I am reminded of a day in February of this year when a snow storm of unpredicted severity came up the mid-Atlanic coast. This storm struck my area after the commute to work and so at the end of the workday I was presented with the decission: Should I attempt to cycle/walk the six miles home or use public transport? I, of course, chose the former!
The trip, cycling where possible, took about three times as long as usual; but, it was a far better and faster trip than would have been experienced on the bus.
My cycle on that day was Schwinn Collegiate equiped with a Schimano 3-speed coaster brake. This was a latter version of the Collegiate that was made by Giant in Taiwan--- I certainly would not have used the earlier U.S. made version with its heavey welded frame.
This cycle was well-suited for the day;the enclosed hub was an absolute neccessity.
.
A derailer gear would certainly have been tangled by the wet and heavey snow. The fender/mudguards kept me a bit more comfortable as the wet snow was kept from flying up at me. The upright bars gave me superior control and vision.
I would very much like to hear other snowy day stories where the roadster "came through"




   RE:MISC:   Winter is acomin posted by Keith on 11/27/2001 at 4:40:37 PM
I have found that the 28 x 1 and 1/2 roadster tires handle well in the snow. I remember riding one on the bike path a couple of winters ago after a heavy snow, and the only other tracks on the trail were from skis! Where were all those over-engineered mountain bikes? The long, heavy bikes are stable in high winds and snow. I agree with your observation about enclosed gears v. derailleurs, but have successfully used derailleur bikes for winter commuting, though freezing rain can make them fail pretty quickly. My derailleur-equiped Raleigh Super Course is fitted with a very tall Nitto Technomic stem, and the riding position is about as upright as a 3-speed with North Road bars. It is equiped with mudguards (Planet Bike) and 700 x 32 Avocet Cross deep tread tires, and can handle all but the worst of winter locally. Fixed gear is another alternative I enjoy for commuting -- after all, the most reliable shifting mechanism is no shifting mechanism at all! Mudguards are very helpful. I'd add lights to the list of must-haves if any of your riding is before sunrise or after sunset (close to 5:00 here now). Some of the newer rear bliker lights are super bright. I know many of you are wed to dynohubs, but I prefer a 15w halogen with NMHD rechargeables. When I ride in the dark I wear one of those dorky reflective vests -- better to look dorky than be run over. Winter riding and night riding are great -- the riding season doesn't end, it just changes.

   RE:MISC:   Winter is acomin posted by smg on 11/27/2001 at 5:03:54 PM
Back in Michigan, I used to be a winter commuter, on a string of drop-bar road-type bikes that I variously equipped with coaster brakes, internal 3-speeds, single freewheels, and 5-speed derailleurs. Depending upon distance and topography, I gravitated toward the latter two. The AW 3-speed was just too wide (an AM would have been heaven on earth!) and the coaster was too easy to lock up when braking. Fenders, I found, were worse than useless; snow would pack into them and turn them into brakes. I had serious trouble with salt corrosion in the bottom bracket--a couple of bikes had their threads rotted out; I once found bearings that had literally corroded/worn square, and had a freewheel cog suffer 14 out of 18 teeth simply crumbling away. Since a bottom bracket and an internal hub are about equal in protection, I'm not sure that the latter is any more secure against corrosion damage and freewheels are cheaper to replace than an internal hub.
The present commuter mount is an old road bike fitted with an S5 hub geared very low, permitting shifts when stopped. Plans are also afoot to turn a Raleigh Gran Sport (collectors relax--it had been repainted, had a new fork, and had practically lost its identity by the time I found it) into a more elegant replica of a pre-derailleur English club bike, circa 1950.

   RE:MISC:   Winter is acomin posted by Dale on 11/27/2001 at 6:00:52 PM
I occasionally ride in winter temps, but not usually. I rode all winter one year on a 3x2, in this case an old Grand Prix with 27x1 3/8 tires, 40/48 in front, flat bars and GH6 in front. The rear hub was a TCWIII with 24T. I was riding about 8 miles each way.

SA hubs are noticeably better sealed than any bottom bracket, but with salty conditions the nuts and hub shell will rust, even if you coat it with grease ahead of time. I have had to knock ice off the indicator chain to make it work again.

There are two main reasons I no longer commute in the winter.

1. Like me, half the people have trouble keeping their hands warm in winter. All the rest of you don't have a clue that we have this problem. Really. In my case, repeated near-frostbite conditions have made it so I wear gloves all times below 45F/10C, else my hands hurt.

2. Around here, we have lots of snow and road salt. The salt will do amazing damage to a bicycle. (If you're going to ride in it, buy a used cheap 3-speed at a thrift store and throw it away when the bolts and spoke nipples rust solid.) The snow and salt combine to form piles of slush, often with ice hidden underneath, and the snowbanks leave no place to go in event of an emergency. Add that NYS drivers, even upstate, are kinda impatient and pass too close at speed. To me, it's not worth the risk.

BTW, the eventual demise of that bike was when I torqued hard at a start and took the hub apart the hard way. Lots of broken parts. I had it geared too low for a big guy, so it was my own doing. (An AW is more immune to this, having more metal around the planet pinions.)

Winter can be a delightful time to ride, but I'm really particular about when I do so. Go for it and may the black ice leave you alone.

   RE:MISC:   Winter is acomin posted by Keith on 11/27/2001 at 9:43:38 PM
The two banes of winter commuting and riding have come up: black ice and salt. I've never had a problem with salt -- I keep my bike clean, and spray the inside of the frame with Boeshield. I don't have a good answer for black ice, other than to look out for it and avoid it. A local rider I know has been using studded tires, and he claims that he LOOKS for ice to ride on now. I'd like to try them this season. I have hot hands, so gloves are not a problem for me, but I seem to be the exception -- most of my friends use heavy riding gloves with windproof shells. I use bright orange hunting gloves, the kind you can get at a K-Mart for about $8.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Winter is acomin posted by Brian Hayes on 11/27/2001 at 11:04:40 PM
I generally commute year round (Columbus, OH area), but I will drive a car when there is any salt and, more importantly, when there is any significant accumulated snow on the city streets. I have not found a way to reliably stay safe whenever there is other traffic around. Do you guys commute on bike trails/sidewalks or mingle with traffic? This year, I'm trying out a pair of Axo Storm Plus gloves which are so far quite toasty, though my hands never seemed to get unbearably cold with the old cheapies.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Winter is acomin posted by Warren on 11/28/2001 at 12:23:42 AM
My choice of bike for the winter commute is determined by tire selection. I need studded tires and therefore restricted to 26 X 1.5 (mtn) and 700c's. This year I'm trying an old Apollo with a fixed gear rear end, a cross tire on the rear and two wheels for the front...one studded and one smoother (Avocet Cross) for quick changes. And fenders of course.

As far as cold hands are concerned, I find fleece liners in overmitts will work in all conditions. I have more of a problem with unprotected bits of the head in extreme cold.
That and the groin. For that I use wind briefs...available at X-country ski shops. I hope that's not more than you need to know...

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Winter is acomin posted by Clyde on 11/28/2001 at 12:40:07 AM
Snow, black ice, road salt - what are these things? It's 80 degrees here in New Orleans!

   RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Winter is acomin posted by Stacey on 11/28/2001 at 1:17:19 AM
Snow - Street lingo for Cocaine - or - dandruff
Black Ice - A "Rap" artist
Road Salt - A scholarly sailor

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:  Winter is acomin posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 11/28/2001 at 11:27:31 PM
Black Ice! Don't say it, don't even think about it. I literally shuddered/recoiled in horror at the mention of it. Ooh My, the flashbacks! Pack everything up and go to where they never see it. Someplace where it cannot form because it never gets cold enough! Maybe the Virgin Islands, St Croix, the Greek Island where they filmed "Captain Corelli's Mandolin" Bermuda, Mazatlan, or Australia.Think Beaches, para-sailing, scuba diving,swimming, fishing, volleyball,grass skirts, climbing up the palm tree with that machette knife thing to get the coconut down. real Hawiaian pineapple from Hawaii not that nasty common stuff from Costa Rica or Brazil(They sold the pineapple plantation land in Hawaii to build condo's) The smiling,laughing, tanned goddesses with lovely long flowing hair commenting on my Humber bike with the strange fork. Lovely blue water, miles of white sandy, clean beaches. The people I'll meet. Yes, I'll drag that Humber half way across the world and go all over on it. I'm gonna wait until spring when the trees are in flower again and the dafodils are in bloom to return. No more black ice for me.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:  Winter is acomin posted by MichaelW on 11/29/2001 at 1:41:00 PM
See icebike.com, the home of the winter cyclist.
Do hub gears have a min temp at which the lube solidifies?
For a cold-wet winter they are hard to beat. Washing and adjusting derailleurs is just what I want to do on a cold wet night at the end of my commute.

   RE:MISC:   Winter is acomin posted by Keith on 11/29/2001 at 6:46:07 PM
Brian -- I commute in Columbus Ohio as well. I go from Worthington to Downtown -- the trip is 14 miles one way. About 12 miles of the trip is on the Olentangy Bike Path, which has it's own hazards (loose dogs, kids with training wheels, etc.) but is much safer that the streets. Even the remaining 2 miles are on relatively quiet residential streets, so I'm very lucky. There have, however, been times when I've been prevented from using the path (construction) and I've always managed to find connections via residential streets, avoiding the crowded main roads. As for derailluers -- I don't wash or adjust them -- I just knock the ice or snow off. BTW, this morning's commute was 48 degrees and steady rain. Fun!

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:  Winter is acomin posted by Albert on 11/29/2001 at 8:30:20 PM
Michael, while I cannot tell at what temperature the lubricant freezes, I can tell you that the SA hub will freeze-up if left out in the rain and a hard freeze follows. Whwn this happens, I play a Brenzrite toarch on the hub-- carefully and quickly for 15 second periods--- untle it again will engage a gear (the freezing causes the pawls to fail to engage).

   :MISC:  Winter is acomin posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 11/30/2001 at 4:09:11 PM
Only a couple of seconds though, or it's Minesota Fried Sturmey!
What about if it's an alloy hub?
With the chain and sprocket and the enclosed hub system, the sand near the beach should not be a problem for me.
You have to be really careful in winter, one quirky little move and the back end goes out from under you and falling on ice or hitting a snow covered ice patch is not fun.


   RE:MISC:   Winter is acomin posted by Bill Putnam on 11/30/2001 at 8:10:20 PM
Some fairly random thoughts on winter riding:

I commute year round in Madison, WI. Most of my commute is
on bike paths (3 miles) with about 1 mile on low traffic
residential streets. When I was younger I took a lot more
chances on the road, but now that I have children I'm a bit
more careful where I ride when conditions are poor.

For the winter I hang up my Raleigh Sports and use either
a Dunelt b line Raleigh or an Indian Drake Raleigh knock-
off. The Drake has been modified to provide clearance for
Nokian 700 X 35 studded tires. Modifications include
relocating the rear brake bridge and chainstay bridge,
and putting on an old Sekai fork originally intended for
27" wheels. Gearing is 34/24. I have never had any
problems with excessive torque damaging the hub. I think
a large rear sprocket is helpful in reducing bending loads
on the axle.

I regularly oil the hub, this keeps the internals flushed
out and clean. I replace the chain at the end of each
winter. Riding a bike in salty and sandy conditions is
very hard on it, but the Drake I pulled out of the trash
and at least it is being used. I run steel fenders (plastic shatters
easily in cold temperatures) and have lots of clearance
between the tire and fender so snow doesn't get packed in
between the two. My first commuter bike was a 1950 Schwinn
3 speed. The frame on it failed not from rust but fatigue
at the seat tube/bottom bracket junction. If you have
fenders with a skirt at the bottom of the front fender this
will keep a lot of salt away from the bottom bracket area,
though when it snows more than a few inches this acts as
a poorly shaped plow.

I wear fleece mittens with an outer
windproof shell over them and this is adequate for keeping
my hands warm. Typically for temps down to around 10-15f
I wear a gore tex rain jacket and T shirt, jeans and long
underwear, shoes that are 1 size too large with an extra
pair of wool socks, and neoprene booties. For my head I
have a "headgator" for my face and fleece headband under
my helmet. When it gets colder I add more layers.
Anything above 20F is comfortable if it's not too windy,
0 to 20F is not uncomfortable, and below -20F is a drag and
I only go as far as I need to and then warm up (I commute
4 miles each way per day).

Although if you do leave an AW equipped bike out in the
freezing rain the shift mechanism can freeze up, I park
my bike in a covered area so this is not a problem. It's
a lot less maintenance and is much more dependable than
a derailler equipped bike.

I use dynohubs on these bikes for a front light with a
GH107 halogen bulb from Reflectalite in England. I like
the VL 700 rear LED taillight for the rear, and have an
old belt beacon flashing light that goes on me. Also,
I've put reflective sheeting on many parts of the bikes
(cranks, rims) and have refletive material on my jacket.

The studded tires have really reduced the frequency of
falls. I strongly recommend them to anyone who rides in
snowy and icy conditions. They don't roll as well as a
non studded tire, but the stability at least for me more
than makes up for this shortcoming.

Bill Putnam






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Not a Raleigh in sight posted by: Tim Powell on 11/26/2001 at 5:13:44 PM
A few post back we were discusing the probable origin of a Brindia bicycle on Ebay. I just thought I would share this web site with you. http://www.localhistory.scit.wlv.ac.uk/Museum/Transport/bicycles/bicycles.htm As you will see before 1920 Raleigh was relatively unheard of in England. There were literaly hundreds of bicycle factories all over the UK. Many of these made components and exported them all over the world. I hope you enjoy reading this site.







MISC:   Dynohub noise...? posted by: DBean on 11/26/2001 at 4:05:30 PM
Ideas, anyone?
My front Dynohub is making an odd noise as I ride. It sounds much like leaves under the fender but seems to be coming from the hub. Pretty quiet when spun with no load on the wheel, the bearings "seem" smooth, and the electrical output is good. I may try removing the generator from the hub and see if it is quiet (at least the magnetic pull won't disguise any roughness in the bearings).


   RE:MISC:   Dynohub noise...? posted by Ben on 11/26/2001 at 7:59:07 PM
Don't disassemble until you read this: http://yarchive.net/bike/dyno_hub.html

   RE:MISC:   Dynohub noise...? posted by DBean on 11/26/2001 at 9:43:52 PM
I assume the link sez not to separate the armature and the magnet after the whole unit comes out in your hand.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Dynohub noise...? posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 11/27/2001 at 12:55:40 AM
This is the first time I have heard of somebody drilling the dynohub axle thru so a quick release skewer can be used with the dynohub.The factory never did this and I am wondering why not. Will this stand up to use after he did this? I mean, it's a good idea but I'm wondering if it'll hold up out there in the field. Sheldon Brown has a page about the Sturmey Archer dyno hub too. (the GH6)

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Dynohub noise...? posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 11/27/2001 at 1:27:51 AM
The address for Sheldon's page on Dynohubs is: http://Sheldonbrown.com/dynohubs.html

   RE:MISC:   Dynohub noise...? posted by DBean on 11/27/2001 at 11:52:01 AM
I think the dyno-side locknut had loosened, allowing the armature a little play inside the spinning magnet. The steel cage-type thing surrounding the windings seemed to be scraping slightly on the magnet. The axle in the hub isn't quite right (too long on the side with the shoulder that the cone is supposed to jam up against) so the whole axle assembly seems a little more prone to loosen than it ought to be.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Dynohub noise...? posted by Edward in Vancouver on 11/27/2001 at 2:47:51 PM
While tahis might not fit in with the thread, I've picked up an old hollow BMX axle which has the same thickness and threading as the S.A.GH 6 axle. One of these days, when I have time, I'll try swapping the axles, I've even got an ancient but really neat Huret QR skewer on standby. I wonder though, just how long should the hollow axle be cut?

   RE:MISC:   Dynohub noise...? posted by Dale on 11/27/2001 at 6:06:05 PM
For QR in a GH6, I knew someone who used a Nuovo Record Rear axil and fudged something up with the Campy cones. It never worked really well, too much play in the threads, though it was serviceable. He build a tubular GH6 wheel and put it on his International...






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Ouch posted by: Edward in Vancouver on 11/26/2001 at 2:39:06 PM
I didn't want it to happen, and I really don't want to say how it happened, but I bent the axle on my FG hub this weekend. Any way I can straighten out the axle? If I can get it straight, will it bend again?

Regards,


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Ouch posted by Andrew on 11/26/2001 at 8:51:39 PM
I've straightened an axle by removing it from wheel, putting it between two thin pieces of wood tightened in a vise, then use a strong copper pipe of maybe 18" long slid onto the axle, apply pressure. It may bend again if you hit a pothole like the ones we have in Mass. good luck.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Ouch posted by Edward in Vancouver on 11/27/2001 at 2:52:08 PM
Thanks, it sounds simple enough to do. I wondered if the metal was brittle, but if it can bend out of shape, it should bend back into shape. In any case it can't be harder than trying to find a replacement axle!

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Ouch posted by Bill Putnam on 11/30/2001 at 10:07:51 PM
Edward,

Your axle is likely cracked. Please do not try to straighten and use. If it breaks completely you will
lose more than just the axle. If you cannot find a replacement let me know. I am suprised that you bent
the axle-did you hit a curb or some similar object?
Is your rim still intact?

Bill

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Ouch posted by smg on 12/4/2001 at 9:27:04 PM
According to Tony Hadland's "The Sturmey-Archer Story", the FG is the Dynahub version of the FW wide-ratio 4-speed, and the S5/2 axle assembly can be used to upgrade an FW to S5/2. If the S5/2 axle is long enough to fit the FG, this might be an interesting fix.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Oregonian posted by: Morgan L. Allen on 11/22/2001 at 5:01:56 PM
I've recently acquired an English 3 speed with a SA dyno front hub and rear SA hub dated 1952. The brand on the bike is Oregonian. Has anyone heard of this brand? Or would you know who produced this? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. Thanx- Morgan


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Oregonian posted by GL on 12/1/2001 at 2:34:59 AM
I don't know the Oregonian but I do know that Raleigh would make bikes for any department store or hardware chain that asked them. Perhaps you have one of those. Look for the distinctive Raleigh pinched front fender, RAleigh symbol stamped on the steering post and other parts. If you compare it to a Raleigh you will see the similarities.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   The last Superbe? posted by: Peter on 11/22/2001 at 4:47:15 PM
Going back a few threads to the last rod brake Raleighs, I had an English Superbe dated 1978, bought from the original owner. It had the delivery paperwork to validate it and a date-stamped AW hub. Rod brakes, steering lock, full chaincase, front dynohub, 26" wheels. Not very good build quality by then, sorry to say. On the early side I have an AW hub stamped 48 8. Pete.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   The last Superbe? posted by Ian on 11/24/2001 at 7:49:52 AM
See my rather late reply posting to the earlier thread, it probably would have made more sense to post it here. Cheers, Ian.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   The last Superbe? posted by Ed on 11/26/2001 at 2:24:26 PM
Peter: I was surprised to learn that your Superbe has 26" wheels.Everyone that I remember seeing had 28"wheels.Regarding last rod brake Raleighs, I have a 1981 DLI Tourist with rod brakes. Regards, Ed.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Urania posted by: Jacob on 11/22/2001 at 11:21:05 AM
Christopher:

A few posts ago you were wondering about a british looking bike called Urania. It is allmost certain that this bike originally was sold from the old - still existing - Urania shop in Copenhagen, Denmark (www.urania.dk).

I have been in touch with Urania, and if you can post the serial number on the bike you have seen, the people at Urania can give information on when and where this bike was produced.

The people at Urania have promised to email me some historic information on the shop and the Urania bikes, and when they do, I will post the info here.

Jacob


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Urania posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 11/23/2001 at 8:10:03 PM
That would be really cool, Jacob!
I'll see if I can get the number.
Thanks for helping to solve the mystery about Urania.
It would be great if Cycles De Oro could get something up about this Company too.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Urania posted by DBean on 11/29/2001 at 2:34:20 PM
Check out the Urania Cycles website. They have what look like very nice Raleigh roadsters. Urania were kind enough to respond to an [English] email with the info that the bikes are produced in the Netherlands.






WANTED:   Sturmey Archer Ab hub cables posted by: Tom on 11/22/2001 at 12:23:32 AM
Does anyone have a pair of front and rear brake cables for an AB drum brake hub or where I can buy them new. The rear is 1948 and front is 1950. I also need the clamps that attach the brake levers to the frame and fork. Other than that the hubs are complete.







MISC:   How Many Bearings in Head Set? posted by: Kyle on 11/21/2001 at 6:24:04 PM
I am rebuilding the headset of my 1956 Humber Sports and was wondering how many bearings are supposed to go in each side. I rebuilt it a couple of years ago and think I may have added extra bearings because the forks bind at their maximum turn angle. I assumed the binding was due to a slightly bent fork tube but maybe it is extra bearings?
Thanks!
Kyle


   RE:MISC:   How Many Bearings in Head Set? posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 11/21/2001 at 8:24:28 PM
There should be 25 5/32 bearings in the top and bottom race. You should be able to adjust this so that it turns freely without any play.

   RE:RE:MISC:   How Many Bearings in Head Set? posted by Jim on 11/23/2001 at 11:47:45 AM
The Sutherlands manual says it is better to have one or two to few than too many. It also reads that a common sign of too many is binding.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   How Many Bearings in Head Set? posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 11/24/2001 at 4:13:37 PM
I was told to fill it up and take one out. But 25 5/32 ball bearings is correct for the Standard Raleigh headset found on so many of the English Roadsters. There are smaller bearings found on the rest of these bikes, like The Phillips.
If you get into these, mention it here.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:   How Many Bearings in Head Set? posted by Bill Putnam on 11/30/2001 at 10:01:53 PM
One thing to check if you are having headset problems is
that all the races are parallel to the same plane. My Dunelt was
very frustrating until I discovered that the head tube
surfaces weren't parallel and the fork area that the lower
race sits on wasn't perpendicular to the steerer tube.
A couple minutes with the appropriate tools at my local
bike shop and these were faced properly. Now the steering
is fine.

Bill Putnam