OldRoads.com

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Archived: English Roadsters







AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh maintenance intervals posted by: Bob on 12/24/2001 at 2:18:08 AM
I ride a '72 Raleigh Superbe and a '74 Raleigh Sports. how often, and at how many miles, should they receive thorough maintenance (if ridden only in good weather and, of course, kept inside when not in use). thanks.


   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh maintenance intervals posted by Albert on 12/27/2001 at 10:10:28 AM
P.S. I use grease, not oil, to acheive that 4000-mile maintenence interval.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh maintenance intervals posted by Dale on 12/29/2001 at 12:17:37 AM
4000 miles in hubs/cranks/heads that seal well is probably fine.

DO NOT USE 3-IN-1 OIL. It is NOT a petroleum oil and is very water-soluble. At one point I stored bicycles outdoors (college dorm) and I was using 3-in-1 and I had to re-oil all the time; when I started using real petrol oil the problem went away. Note: 3-in-1 used to make a "motor oil" (it had a different colored can) which was real oil and worked fine. I don't know if it's still available.

I have used drippings from the motor oil cans for years. It's not too "thick" for above-freezing use. Below freezing, use cycle oil or synthetics that flow at low temperature (Mobil-1 5W30 would probably be fine.) If the oil is too thick the pawls sometimes stick (no drive) at low temperatures.

I have heard that detergent oils are acidic so non-detergent oil might be better, but I have had no problems with using engine oils.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh maintenance intervals posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 12/29/2001 at 6:50:36 PM
We need a whole page here telling once and for all the proper maintence for these bikes. What oils are acceptable, where to oil it, how to replace cables, all that. Does Old Roads sell oil? They should! Make it easy, offer it here, alongside the miricle chrome cleaner.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh maintenance intervals posted by Dale on 12/24/2001 at 2:53:25 AM
- Keep your chain oiled but not over-oiled.
- Three drops of oil in your SA hub, once a month.
- Oil your brake pivots a couple of times a year.
- Major overhaul every 5 years or 2000 miles, whichever comes first. This includes clean & grease all bearings, cables out and regreased.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh maintenance intervals posted by Bob on 12/24/2001 at 4:20:33 AM
thanks, dale; what kind of oil for the S/A hub lubrication?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh maintenance intervals posted by Catfood Rob on 12/24/2001 at 6:53:50 PM
You have 3 in 1 oil over there in the `states sdont you? Use that, or similar very thin clear oil.
Car engine oil is too thick...but probably works o.k. specially modern synthetic oil.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh maintenance intervals posted by Kevin C. on 12/25/2001 at 12:02:48 AM
3-in-1 oil is too thin,in my opinion. I have used 20 weight motor oil with good results, but I have heard that Singer sewing machine oil is good, too.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh maintenance intervals posted by Albert on 12/25/2001 at 11:18:05 PM
2000-mile intervals for bearing is a bit too frequent for me; I go to 4000. Also, I grease cables only upon installation after which they are never again touched; yet, I experience no breakage due to fraying or sticky cable action resulting in brakes that release slowly. Cheers from Philadelphia!






AGE / VALUE:   1936 Baines on Ebay#1051736287 posted by: sam on 12/24/2001 at 12:57:11 AM
I been reading some small booklets Ian sent me on English bikes.Seems there was a rule that photos in cycling magazines could not show makers names on cycles being ridden in amateur races.So some of the bikes in the 30s had unusual shapes----check out ebay#1051736287


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   1936 Baines on Ebay#1051736287 posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 12/26/2001 at 9:18:15 PM
Nice machine!






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   DL1....other colors posted by: Mark W. on 12/23/2001 at 12:07:51 PM
Does anyone have information on custom factory ordered paint on Raleigh's. A friend in California claims to have purchased a 1969 Tourist (DL1) with a deep yellow paint that is factory original, the person he bought it from was the owner of a MG dealership in San Fransisco and had ordered about 15 of them this color from Raleigh as a promotion for the dealership. Any information helpful.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   DL1....other colors posted by Ben on 12/30/2001 at 9:50:05 PM
I know where there is a ladies model chrome DL-1 for sale, original tan tires, excellent original condition

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   DL1....other colors posted by Jeff on 12/23/2001 at 11:57:53 PM
There was a chrome DL-1 on eBay last year. Anybody have any info on these?

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   DL1....other colors posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 1/3/2002 at 12:50:32 AM
Look in the readers web pages section for mention of one of the chrome models.






AGE / VALUE:   so stoked! posted by: Edward in Vancouver on 12/22/2001 at 10:06:50 PM
Now that Christmas is finally upon us, I've got some time to complete a few projects from this year. My first one was to build up a wheel. No ordinary task, the hub is an FG, the rim a Raleigh 40 spoke, and the pattern a cross 4.
According to the Raleigh spoke length chart, I was to only use one size of spokes, even though there was a huge difference in the left and right hub flange sizes. The shop that sold me the spokes was highly critical, and implored me to use a web-based spoke calculator, but I stuck to the chart. It works out very well! With the help from every one on this site (ie the rim, and the classic S.A. rim lacing instructions)I've got a wheel that is actually round and true. I'm almost reluctant to install it and see what happens after a few miles. However, I'm still a little confused with dishing. Must the wheel be dished with the spacing washers under the lock ring on the left side? This seemed the logical thing to do, and as such, the wheel spun nicely on the stand. Any last minute advice before it goes on the bike for a ride?


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   so stoked! posted by Sheldon Brown on 12/23/2001 at 9:38:34 PM
Cross 4 spoking with 36 or 40 spokes generally causes the spokes to be approximately tangential at the hub flanges, so for this spoke pattern, flange size has very little effect on spoke length.

One of the cool things about the old English 32/40 spoking system was that it usually used the same spoke lengths front and rear, by dint of doing the front cross 3 and the rear cross 4.

Dishing with a DynoHub is no different from other hubs, you center the rim between the outer locknuts that bump up against the insides of the dropouts.

All bicycle wheels are the same in this regard, doesn't matter what kind of hub they have.

Sheldon "The Rims Go In The Middle" Brown
Newtonville, Massachusetts
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
http://sheldonbrown.com/harris
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide






AGE / VALUE:   Couple of questions and heads up... posted by: Tony O on 12/21/2001 at 7:31:08 AM
Hi all,

This board doesn't seem to busy, so I hope you don't mind some more newbie questions. I know you can't really tell how much a bike is worth unless you see it, but I've seen an ad for a '69 Raleigh DL1 for $145. If this is in decent condition is this seem like a fair deal? also, I recall reading some posts about the quality of Raleighs having gone down at some point (in the 70's mabye?) and was just wondering when exactly this decline started happening. Is '69 still a good year for them?

OK...now that I've gotten that out of the way, I came across some bikes that some of you may be interested in so I will post the links.

Classic English made Raliegh 10 speed exellent condition - $50
Reply to: timw0890@att.net
Date: Sun Dec 16 10:24:58 2001


I am tired of people calling, emailing, promising to come by and not showing-up so I am pretty much giving this bike away for $50. Serious inquiries only.

Early 1970's English made Raliegh 10 speed
27" wheels
23-24" frame good for someone 5'10" and above
All original components except for the tires
Excellent shape
I am selling this bike because the frame is too large for me.

*****

Classic ladies English bicycle built by Triumph. Probably 25 years old. Black. One speed. Very easy to ride. Always garaged. New tires. Barely used. Reply to: rounds@pacbell.net
*****

2 40's Rudge 3 speeds

http://www.bicycletrader.com/collection/bike11.html

***
btw, I have no affiliation with any of these links, just things I saw of interest while browsing. fyi...these bikes are all in the san fran area, I believe.
-Tony


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Couple of questions and heads up... posted by Geoff Rogers on 12/21/2001 at 4:46:07 PM
The DL-1 for $145 might be a good deal IF it's original paint, not too scratched up or rusty, with decals intact and; the wheels are not badly scarred or damaged (hard to find replacements, as they're 28"). If the original Brooks leather saddle is in good shape, then it's a definite fair deal, given the above. This is a good time of year to negotiate on bicycles, as most people don't want to ride much this time of year, at least in the North.
As to quality of English bikes, the very best of them were probably made between World War II and about 1964, when Raleigh stopped putting oil fittings on bottom brackets, tubing got thinner, etc. Bikes made up until the early seventies were also very good quality. Some folks think that machines made after about 1972 or so were not as good; paint was not as carefully applied, components were cheaper and the general workmanship on later bikes seems to be less good than earlier ones, although any Nottingham-built Raleigh is worth having.
The DL-1, incidentally, was Raleigh's top-of-the-line utility bicycle, so maybe later ones were still pretty good. I have a '69 myself which is excellent, as well as a 1980, which seems to be pretty good as well (although it's a "back burner" project that I haven't really done much to yet). My daily rider is a '66 Dunelt that is really a DL-1 with Dunelt badges. It's a total blast to ride, and built to last forever.
Good luck!

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Couple of questions and heads up... posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 12/21/2001 at 6:47:56 PM
Ride it and see if you can go along "No hands style" If it dives to one side or the other you have a bent fork. Bent forks are bad. Spin the wheels, look for faults, don't assume everythings fine.
Another heading or section needed here is "how to check for bent forks"
Some type of rough guide for the novice bike buyer to check to see if the used bike is up to shape is needed here. If you are excited about the bike when you first buy it you can forget to check it over.
Few will sell a bike knowing it's damaged still it happens and if they don't know, you want to be able to find out BEFORE you pay for it. They have this saying "As Is"

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Couple of questions and heads up... posted by Mike on 12/21/2001 at 11:10:30 PM
Actually, it's rare to find one of those old English bikes that doesn't have a bit of fork misalignment. Seems to sbe the nature of the beast. However, I've found that you can increase stability of the bike by replacing the headset caged bearings with lose bearings. Just be sure to add a few extra bearings to fill up the races.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Couple of questions and heads up... posted by Warren on 12/21/2001 at 11:50:31 PM
The beauty of the older britbikes is the quality of the steel. I think "ductile"is the word. I've got a local shop that charges $12 to straighten out a fork. That's if it's not twisted badly...then you may have to replace it. Not a bad price to bring back a bike someone else has deemed unrideable.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Couple of questions and heads up... posted by Kevin on 12/22/2001 at 1:53:14 PM
Most of the later DL-1s I have seen have poor chrome on the rims. Raleigh must have cheapened the plating in the late 1970s. That's a big issue because with rod brakes, a rough rim with devour brake pads.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Couple of questions and heads up... posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 12/22/2001 at 5:49:19 PM
True, with the later rims the chrome was not as good. Also, the rims were not as strong the metal was a diffrent quality. You could dent them easier. The old Dunlop westwood rims are great. Thick and solid!






WANTED:   Hercules Bicycles Circa 1939 & 1950 OR authentic Hercules poster posted by: Monica on 12/20/2001 at 4:31:06 AM
Hello,

My name is Monica. I am writing from San Francisco.
I need advice as to where to find a specific item that
I would like to give to my parents as a very special
Christmas gift.

Both my father and mother once owned Hercules bicycles
in their youth (before they met). These are British
bicycles, but my father purchased his in Iran circa
1950 and my mother's was purchased in Mexico circa
1939. Both have beautiful and touching stories about
the acquisition of and various adventures on these
bicycles (which never made it with them to the US).

My father's Hercules (1950) was black with a headlight.
My mother's Hercules (1939) was burgundy. No headlight.

Do you have any information about where I might find
either:
1. the bicycles that fit the descriptions above
2. the vintage poster or print of a Hercules Bicycles
advertisement.

If you have any information or probable leads, PLEASE
let me know at your earliest convenience.

Thank you for your time.

Happy Holidays!

Monica
shahbaznia@yahoo.com


   RE:WANTED:   Hercules Bicycles Circa 1939 & 1950 OR authentic Hercules poster posted by sam on 12/21/2001 at 2:16:48 AM
Monica,You might find what you want on ebay.Best of luck.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:WANTED:Hercules cycle posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 12/29/2001 at 6:44:39 PM
They don't display them on line because they're out acquiring more goodies!
They're a busy band of funky old pirates!

   RE:RE:RE:RE:WANTED:Hercules cycle posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 12/29/2001 at 6:44:43 PM
They don't display them on line because they're out acquiring more goodies!
They're a busy band of funky old pirates!

   RE:WANTED:   Hercules Bicycles Circa 1939 & 1950 OR authentic Hercules poster posted by Randy on 12/21/2001 at 5:07:27 AM
Monica, the best place to start in the City is American Cyclery (the location on Frederick St. by the end of Golden Gate Park)

I haven't been there for a few years, but they deal a lot in vintage bicycles and bicycleana (I don't know if that's a word...) I've bought and traded Sturmey-Archer and rod brake parts there.

Their website is http://www.americancyclery.com

Best of luck with your search,

Randy

   RE:RE:WANTED:Hercules cycle posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 12/22/2001 at 6:05:21 PM
There is this shop up in Toronto, it's huge and they have lots of things and I would ask them if the New York lead doesn't pan out.
Can somebody tell her the name of this place? It's up in the Montreal/ Quebec area. They're on the web too. My mental "magnet" has been seperated from it's "keeper"
I'm burned out and will be off list for awhile.
Wishing everybody a safe and fun holiday season!
The poster may be found with some dealer in poster art reprints. A lot of reprinted bicycle posters show up on e- bay. Contact one of these sellers and ask for Hercules bike posters. We would like to hear some of the stories they have to tell. Can you take dictation and write it here? Or if they are computer- literate perhaps they would.
People would enjoy reading it.

   RE:RE:RE:WANTED:Hercules cycle posted by Warren on 12/24/2001 at 4:37:25 AM
I think the shop you are referring to is Lazywalk. The URL used to be http://www.lazywalk.com/index.html. One of the oddest, slowest, eccentric websites in all of bikedom. Pinup girls etc...I think they have lots of old bikes and parts but they don't display them online.






FOR SALE:   near mint superbe posted by: Bruce on 12/20/2001 at 12:49:33 AM
Here I go again, I have acquired a 73 or 74 Raleigh Superbe on ebay this last summer. It was advertised as being sold to a man new in either 73 or 74 and barely ridden. The original seller had it and listed it for the family. I bought it and took it to the shop for tuneup and tires and tubes immediately, the tires still have the extra rubber from the mold on them, needless to say it has been ridden very little. The paint is marvelous as is the chrome etc. It has the rack the pump and the front dynohub, I have had second thoughts about riding it. It is in too nice condition to use as a rider, and I can't afford to have it for a collector and not ride it, I am looking to sell it for what I paid for it, the new tubes, tires tuneup I will not try to recoup. I have the original tires and tubes that are worth a lot by themselves to the serious collector. My original plan was to have it converted from a 3 speed to a 7 speed. I now think I should just sell it and get a new 7 speed or maybe even Yikes buy a bike without internal hub. If interested I can take pictures.







AGE / VALUE:   Take a look( Hercules bike ID tip) posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 12/19/2001 at 3:56:25 PM
Take a look at e- bay item#1050215975 Hercules head badges
3 badges are shown

The one in the middle, that is the badge found on an origonal Hercules bicycle. The middle one is pre- Raleigh takeover.The bicycle that has the middle badge is made in Birmingham, England. Note the(origonal) middle badge is thick and is aluminum not a brass (Raleigh type) badge. The other badges on the right and left are belonging to Raleigh in Nottingham produced Hercules bikes. The origonal Hercules bikes will have Hercules spelled out in the rubber pedal blocks like a Phillips named pedal as Hercules was part of Phillips. A diffrent dropout, diffrent frame, and a real Hercules bike will also have a "Hercules Cycle and Motor" stamped rear 3 speed hub with the threaded driver that the rear sprocket threads on to.

The Raleigh made Hercules bikes are more streamlined looking (for lack of a better description) but I preferr the real thing myself. Hercules was the "bottom rung" on the English bicycle "ladder" So maybe Raleigh affected a slight improvement by putting the Hercules name on the Raleigh b- grade line of bikes.

This same seller is offering a Sturmey Archer F.W. 4 speed hub.So now is your chance to upgrade your bike to a four speed. Nice hub, and he's in the states too.
No relation to seller, not my auction
I stoped a church rummage sale lady from putting the Hercules bike in the trash instead of offering it for sale and I had to argue that it was a good bike still and instead of her putting it where I couldn't get to it I was able to donate 15.00 and she let me have it. I had to up the chain of command and ask about it after she said no. She wondered why anybody would want that old thing? I replied that this is what I come looking for. I pointed out the Hercules decal on the chainguard. Then she said that that could backfire and make them put it way us as an antique! Last 4 visits I only say Huffy Mountain bikes so either old Brit bikes are vanishing or else they have gotten picky there and heave them out anyway. Ya gotta have an eye!


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Take a look( Hercules bike ID tip) posted by Ed on 12/20/2001 at 3:47:08 AM
I purchased three Hercules bikes last June from a neighbor who was cleaning out his garage. All equipped with Sturmey Archer three speed hubs,two dated 63 and the third dated 68.I understand that Raleigh acquired Hercules in 1960 so I realize that all of these bikes were made after the Raleigh take over,however the badge on one of the 63s has me confused,it is identical in design to the badges on the right and left in the Ebay offering but it appears to be brass and has Birmingham across the bottom. The badges on the other two bikes appear to be aluminum and have Nottingham across the bottom,identical to a fourth 1968 Hercules that I purchased earlier from another owner. Nothing else on the bike with the Birmingham badge is any different from any other post Raleigh Hercules that I have seen. Is it possible that Raleigh could have been using up some left over Bermingham badges when they made my bike? I hope this post is not too confusing,but I would be interested in hearing any thoughts any of you may have on how a Bermingham badge wound up on an ,apparently,Nottingham bike. Thanks, Ed.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Take a look( Hercules bike ID tip) posted by Warren on 12/20/2001 at 6:11:24 AM
There is an older Hercules badge as well. It has a red HC overlaid on a background of gold lines spreading out from the centre of the badge. This brass plate then has a circular border of brass pressed on to the perimeter that says Hercules Cycle and Motor Co. Britannia Works, Birmingham. I have two of these on bikes from the early 50's.

   Rebuilding the vintage cycle business posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 12/20/2001 at 6:39:56 PM
I would imagine that once Raleigh took over control of Phillips as a whole (and Hercules too), that they used up what parts were on hand and then switched everything over. Perhaps some already made parts like frames were thrown in the scrap bin and recycled. I don't know how many parts were in stock then. Raleigh took control of the Smethwick works and other parts of Phillips too but didn't run it for very long before closing some factories Raleigh didn't need to operate. The Phillips lion badged bicycles started coming out of Raleigh in Nottingham after about 1960-1961. Same with Hercules and a whole host of other names. There was a merger and not long after, consolidation.
A origonal Hercules badge would not be on the new Raleigh produced frames, nor would a Hercules badged 3 speed hub go into a Raleigh produced frame at factory because there were two (at least) factories in diffrent places. There was no mixing of diffrent parts that made up the bike. The changeover was not really gradual. Only with badges saying Birmingham and then Nottingham after awhile. The same thing with decals that were close but still diffrent. The change was fairly orderly and the plan to merge it all must have been a huge, detailed task. Raleigh in Nottingham, Phillips in Birmingham, a Phillips run factory in Smethwick made brake and gear cable casing, pedals that said Phillips and Hercules on them. More than one type of pedal was produced, a wide selection too. A lot of other parts. Everything was produced in house by Raleigh and Phillips who were the two larger companies. Every part being made from somewhere in England. I think that the first imported parts to show up on Raleigh's were the alloy Swiss
Pletcher racks and German Union pedals with the sintered bearings. That was a big thing,(kind of) Raleigh and Phillips had been making their own pedals in house for a long time, a pedal in and of itself was a important, part made up of a number of smaller parts,and these had to be assembled. A whole section making just pedals, what, 3 sizes of em? tricycle, juvinile and adult size.Two for every cycle! Then they used the Union pedals with a Heron stamp. It's a good pedal, but admittedly a cost saving/time saving move. Unfortunitly, a needed cost saving switch. What happened to the machinery and people running it when they stoped making pedals in house? That was a bad day for workers who were proud to be part of the Phillips operation. In the above post, she writes that the Hercules bike was bought in Iran. These bike were sent all over the world, including Iran where they were popular and the owners very proud to have them. It didn't matter if it was a Hercules, a Phillips, Raleigh, Rudge, Humber or whatever. Everybody loved a bicycle that was made in England. England was the world's kitchen when it came to making bicycles! So much so, that many factories were opened in other parts of the world too, and so they got to have a hand in actually making the bikes and not just riding one or wanting to ride one. The whole British cycle industry( Bikes, motorcycles, mopeds and all the parts themselves) was hugemongous, with a great number of people involved. Workers, administration, secretaries opening mail, typing letters. Salesmen, jobbers, People driving the trucks! Many diffrent factory workers in diffrent parts of the country. People maning the punch press, working at lathes, paint work, decals, making tires, tubes, building wheels, patch kits at places like Dunlop, John Bull tire and rubber, Constrictor,
Resilion derailers, T.D.Cross and son made all kinds of parts! Headsets,freewheel sprockets. Hub gears such as Sturmey- Archer gears in Nottingham. A older style Sturmey Archer gear made in Birmingham, Two plants (at least) knocking out the virtually same hub gear. Both operating at the same time. Hey, they needed a lot of 3 speed hubs! Bells such as C.J. Adie, Miller. Handlegrips, It's all really mind boggling.
Putting it all in order, with lots of pictures, and various coments from people who were actually there, covering each company and their individual bikes will take some time to accomplish. People need to see each model and the specs so we get it straight.That will help, perhaps it's where we need to start? With the bicycles. All the models going backwards to the beginning? It's a large task, we'll need a lot of various contributors who will have to be willing to come out of the woodwork with their bikes, stories,catalogs, personal photos. How do we get started on this huge project? Who wants to head it up? Who should be leading it? This could be some huge joint effort with the various web sites and the shops behind them, the old time collectors, former workers perhaps? Company involvement? (Raleigh is soon moving to a new site, so they're kind'a busy) These sites are about promoting interest in vintage bicycles, helping people learn about something they enjoy, promoting cycling for health and happiness. All of that. There could be real renewed interest. A money making oportunity, T- shirts, videos, more good books, re- pop parts. More hits on these sites.
There's this site, Old Roads.com. Sheldon Brown's site, SheldonBrown.com. Cycles De Oro's Classics Rendevous. The "Retro Raleigh's" site is good . Don't forget important work such as Frank Berto's "Dancing Chain, History and Development of the Derailer Bicycle" (underlined) where we finally see the cycle transmission history set straight and in order! Buy that book! We also have a good smattering of smaller sites and indiviuals. Many awesome people promoting bicycling and vintage bike collecting. Still, it's not all together, where one can assemble the whole interesting picture. Buying any one of a number of books should be easy as pie when someone visits these sites. Where are the links telling how to buy any number of the bike books? We need that done, somehow. A joint effort with everybody signed on together.Or perhaps chapter one here and then a link to chapter two, and so on with each large site telling a portion of the tale. Where are the various t- shirts, sweaters, bumper stickers(whatever) with all the old logos? Cool vintage bike t- shirts? I'm amazed this has not been done yet!! Find who ever holds the rights)(presumably Raleigh) and lets make arrangements if we can, and lets get it on! Channel the payment to whoever owns it.Do it properly, but lets see it done. So much dormant materials with so much potential sitting unused and forgotten is wrong and unfortunite. It is their call to make, however. A century of many things to be proud of, whole industries and it all slips away! I feel like a univited guest standing up way back in the aisleway in a room filled with important busy people and I interrupt everyone with my "Why don't you do this, question?" But I would so much like to see it done and I'm willing to contribute or help somehow build it. All these rendundant questions, lets get it told once and for all. Thank You, and please forgive the long post.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Take a look( Hercules bike ID tip) posted by Mark on 12/21/2001 at 11:27:53 PM
What? Run that all by me again. :-)

   A plethora of great ideas posted by Vindicator on 12/22/2001 at 2:53:16 AM
Christopher, I've been following your posts for quite awhile. Honestly, I'm impressed! You are articulate and knowlegable. Your ideas are well formed with a defined direction albeit a somewhat rambling path. I respectfully submit to you that indeed action should be taken. Write a book. Start a web site... or possibly work with Vin as an extention of OldRoads.com! Stop talking about it, stop saying "Someone should", get off your keester and do it your own self! God forbid you get hit by a truck tomorrow... all these ideas, all this knowledge will be gone forever. Leave a legacy of information, it's the best gift you can give.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Take a look( Hercules bike ID tip) posted by Mark on 12/23/2001 at 12:03:33 AM
Here, here!
I usually write in with some lame-o "trying to be funny" snippet, emphisis on the "Trying" , but Chris's input is always insightful, interesting, and very knowlegable. You really ought to write a book, or start a web sight of your own on our beloved English bikes man!
By the way, who are you anyway? Where did you aquire your knowlege of English, and other bikes?
Thanks 'bro!
Marko






AGE / VALUE:   Opinion sought on overall quality of jc higgins posted by: Tony on 12/19/2001 at 10:25:24 AM
Hi all,

I've recently decided that I would like to find myself a decent (rider) English bike or equivalent. So far the only old bike I own is a '62 schwinn racer, which I really do like but would still like to add a nicer rider. I really don't have all that much to spend (around $75), but I'm in no hurry. Recently saw a decent condition JC higgins from 1958 and was just wondering how it compares to the English roadsters everyone loves? I'd prefer to buy a Raleigh or equivalent but don't really see that many on ebay or elsewhere that I can afford.
tia for any help.
-Tony


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Opinion sought on overall quality of jc higgins posted by Kevin on 12/19/2001 at 12:48:52 PM
Keep looking. You should be able to get a nice Raleigh for $75.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Opinion sought on overall quality of jc higgins posted by DBean on 12/19/2001 at 4:03:51 PM
If the J.C. Higgins looks like an English bike and has English components, it probably is. Sears/J.C. Higgins imported many bikes to sell under its own name as did big department stores. If it doesn't need a lot of work, it might be a good buy - but only for a lot less than $75!

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Opinion sought on overall quality of jc higgins posted by Albert on 12/19/2001 at 9:13:44 PM
J.C. Higgins was at this time made in Austria probably by Puch, The hubs were almost identicle to the SA AW series. At the time they never impressed me as being anything more than an average quality cycle-- a bit more gawdy than the British equivalent.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Opinion sought on overall quality of jc higgins posted by Sheldon Brown on 12/19/2001 at 10:07:50 PM
The first multi-speed bike I ever owned was an Austrian J.C. Higgins of probably late-50s vintage. I liked it a lot!

There are a couple of pix of me on it as a teenager at http://sheldonbrown.com/bicycle.html (scroll way down.)

Sheldon Brown

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Opinion sought on overall quality of jc higgins posted by Tony O on 12/20/2001 at 6:40:40 AM
thanks for the help guys. Here is a pic of it...it's on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1048480239&r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=1008914808&indexURL=0&rd=1

Looks to be in very good shape. I guess I will just bide my time for a decent raleigh.

-patiently waiting to become an *official* english bicycle owner.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Opinion sought on overall quality of jc higgins posted by DBean on 12/20/2001 at 11:52:57 AM
Is it an optical illusion or are the fork and seat tube angles different on this frame?

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Opinion sought on overall quality of jc higgins posted by Sheldon Brown on 12/20/2001 at 7:32:25 PM
Looks to me like it's been crashed and bent! Run away, run away!

All the best,

Sheldon

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Opinion sought on overall quality of jc higgins posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 12/21/2001 at 6:50:33 PM
Another middle name of Sheldon's is "Eagle Eye"
It bites to get it home and then discover these things.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Opinion sought on overall quality of jc higgins posted by Mark on 12/21/2001 at 11:33:15 PM
It's a Steyr. Sears sold the exact same bike under their brand name. Ridable, but no Raleigh.






WANTED:   Dunelt,1966 posted by: Danno on 12/18/2001 at 7:08:21 PM
does anyone have a gold and white saddle for my dunelt? I am guessing the brand to be wright,rampar,or brooks? Thanks and Merry Christmas!







MISC:   ROADSTERS AND RADIO RADIO posted by: Albert on 12/18/2001 at 2:12:48 PM
Are there readers/contributors to this site who are also amateur radio operators? An HF QSO or on 2-meters in Philadelphia area would be interesting. E-mail me to sked. Cheers!







MISC:   Paypal in UK posted by: DBean on 12/18/2001 at 9:03:56 AM
Can anyone explain why the British sellers on ebay of old bike stuff eschew Paypal? Paypal supposedly handles international transactions. I guess most potential buyers (like me!) are reluctant to mail cash or go thru the expense and hassle of foreign-denominated money orders.


   RE:MISC:   Paypal in UK posted by smg on 12/18/2001 at 2:55:03 PM
This is a community that would seem to be a little choosy about how much of the modern world they want to adopt. . .!

   RE:MISC:   Paypal in UK posted by edgar ecks on 12/18/2001 at 3:37:32 PM
Same here. I generally don't even look at items that have "GBP" in the index line (although I have been watching the Cyclo SA multisprocket blocks that are on right now in case I ever want to sell mine)

   RE:MISC:   Paypal in UK posted by Art on 12/19/2001 at 1:49:19 AM
I've had pretty good luck buying things from England. Peter, who contributes to this site, can explain better the problems with Pay Pal, but I think they have to do with charges that Pay Pal makes them pay as it relates to the conversion rate(?). I think. Anyway, I haven't had any problem sending cash. I also haven't had any problem buying GBP, British pounds, at my local bank. I just asked to buy a money order in pounds sterling, they calculated the conversion rate, and it took about 3 minutes. The problem with buying heavy stuff from England is the shipping. It can make a bargain bike, not such a bargain when freight is added in. I say go for it. Spread the wealth around! Small parts aren't that expensive to ship.

   RE:MISC:   Paypal in UK posted by Tom on 12/19/2001 at 4:19:23 AM
I have purchased a few items from England and it is a simple process. I go to my bank and request a money order in GPB. I do pay a small fee for it. I only purchase small items so shipping is low. The banks in England and overseas are fussy on changing foreign curency and charge them extra money to change to GBP. The shipping rates are very high when it comes to large items. There was a tandem bike with sidecar on ebay this summer and shipping to North America was around $350US. It made the price of the bike too much for my blood. I live in Canada and we get charged $5.00 at our banks to get a money order in US dollars. We don't get charged for cashing US money orders. I do use Paypal for the convenience of fast cash. The other problem we have in Canada when purchasing items from other countries is Taxes and Duties. An item at $20.00US has a $5.00 duty and 14% tax at Can curency. $20US x 1.55= $31.00 + $4.34 + $5.00=$40.34. That $20.00 purchase is not such a good deal. The duty is higher on big ticket items. I have sold many items to the US and use Paypal a lot. It's great. Do you pay any duties on foreign purchases when they get to the US?

   RE:MISC:   Paypal in UK posted by Peter on 12/19/2001 at 8:39:44 AM
Here is my view from England, from the viewpoint of a regular seller. While Paypal is an efficient and trouble free system, their exchange rate is some 8 to 10 % worse than normal, on top of which they also charge 1.50 USD to transfer the payment to my account, so at the end of the transaction I would be getting considerably less than the bid price. As my friend Art says, there are other ways to pay, and for small items I always advocate cash in Dollars, and have never had a problem with that. I also offer to use Paypal if the calculation is done in such a way that I end up with the end of auction price, and usually this offer is taken up because it is easier and cheaper than an international money order. The problem with checks in dollars is that our banks charge a minimum of 7 dollars to exchange, and clearance can take weeks. I think I prefer that the money we have between us is recirculated among us cyclists, rather than the banks, most of which seem to have enough already!

   RE:RE:MISC:   Paypal in UK posted by Edward in Vancouver on 12/19/2001 at 2:52:46 PM
Mostly I've used money orders to get items from England, and I find this enjoyable. However, I have a real big bone to pick with the Paypal system in the U.S.: You must have a U.S. Visa card and U.S. address in order to pay with the system. Canadian adresses and Visa#'s won't cut it. This type of arrogance has forced me to make my purchaseseither locally or overseas.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Paypal in UK posted by Ian on 12/19/2001 at 5:49:48 PM
Hi, From here in New Zealand I use Paypal or Bidpay a lot to pay for my purchases and had no problem registering a NZ Bank Visa with them. Neither however will make payment or issue M.O.s in GBP and some English sellers are not up with the modern world enough to want to accept any other currency and then convert it. Mind you, and I mean no disrespect because in some ways it is a nice way to be, but many of the English vintage bike people I correspond with do not use the net or the fax and still rely on snail mail. Who remembers how to hand write a letter and take it to the post and wait weeks for a reply? Only us old fellas I guess!

   RE:MISC:   Paypal in UK posted by Jeff on 12/19/2001 at 10:18:12 PM
When purchasing things on ebay from England I have always used cash sent registered mail. So far I have had no problems.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   What is it?? posted by: fatboy on 12/17/2001 at 7:50:28 PM
What model bike is this? Black Raleigh three speed, no date on Sturmey-Archer chrome hub shell but it has black hardware, Full chaincase with brass oiler, Rod brakes, Dunlop 26 x 1-3/8" rims, Dunlop war grade tires, Brooks B-72 saddle, red pinstripes, "All steel bicycle" decal on seat tube, made in England decal on top tube, Nice Raleigh script decal on chaincase, Black cable clamps and brake fulcrums. This is a real neat wartime bike but I don't know what it is.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   What is it?? posted by MichaelW on 12/18/2001 at 9:49:19 AM
I used to have a Triupmh "All Steel" . This implied that the bottom bracket was not cast iron.
I dont know if any other brands used that tag.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   What is it?? posted by Geoff Rogers on 12/19/2001 at 5:28:40 PM
Here's how to date older (pre-1946, anyhow) S-A hubs. They have ONE digit stamped on the shell, indicating the last digit of the year manufactured. On an AW hub, look in the narrow triangle under the Sturmey Archer trademark. On earlier hubs, it's next to the hub type. For example, my 1935 Dawn Tourist hub is stamped, "KB5". It's a KB hub, made in 1935. I have two bikes made in 1940, and both have a "0" stamped in the narrow triangle.
Your bike sounds like higher than entry-level, as it has the gearcase and a 3-speed hub. Bread-and-butter older Raleighs used single speed hubs, often with no chainguard at all. There were many models, and they could be ordered with options, so the cheaper model could be optioned out so it was identical to the more expensive one. Let us know what year it is when you find that digit.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Gear loose on Sturmey Archer axle question posted by: Robert on 12/17/2001 at 3:48:18 PM
In stripping down a couple of AW hubs, I discovered that 2 of the 3 had loose sun? gear on the axle. There was a small amount of play that allowed the gear to move slightly. Is this the usual / acceptable or should they be replaced?

Thanks


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Gear loose on Sturmey Archer axle question posted by Albert on 12/18/2001 at 2:12:00 PM
I also have noticed this play; yet, these hubs seem to work perfectly well. In the SA design, the sun-gear is always held. It along with the axel to which it is pinned is the stationary reaction member. The reaction moment is reversed when shifting from low through to high and back; it is this action that would cause the loosening of the axel nuts if it weren't fot the anti-rotation wasers. And I rather suppose that this same reversal of force causes the sun-gear to loosen on its pin.
Cheers from Philadelphia!

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Gear loose on Sturmey Archer axle question posted by Bill Putnam on 12/19/2001 at 8:32:16 PM
I see this on occasion with Sturmey AW hubs. Given enough
use, eventually the pin holding the gear to the axle would
fail and this would damage the hub. In practice I've never
seen this problem.

If you can find a new dowel for the sun pinion it would be
good to replace the old one and make sure the new one is
peened securely, otherwise I generally just peen the end
of the dowel and that tightens it up.






AGE / VALUE:   John Bull bicycle grips posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 12/17/2001 at 10:51:47 AM
E- bay item#1049545925 John Bull Bicycle Grips
They are at 19.00 right now. I have a set of these on one of my bikes, and I didn't have to pay no 19.00! But then again, what all I had to go through to find these grips. These are from the 1930's all right, and are difficult to find.
I'd love to make something like these up and sell them.
Who owns the rights to John Bull anyway? It's long gone isn't it?
No relation to seller, not my auction, and it's the first time I have seen these offered on e- bay!


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   John Bull bicycle grips posted by Mark R. on 12/17/2001 at 4:32:25 PM
I have an aquaintence, an artist, who one time was making reproductions of a little sculpture he'd made by pouring a rubber compound over it and then peeling it off after it hardened. Then he simply filled the "mold" with coloured plaster, and made almost identicle copies of the sculpture. I'm thinking that maybe, if someone could use an old, but good grip as a template, maybe you could make a plaster copy of a grip, use that to make a hard copy/cast mold whatever you want to call it, and then make copies by filling the mold with a vinyl compound or something.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   John Bull bicycle grips posted by Tom on 12/17/2001 at 11:24:49 PM
This guy has sold a few more sets of these on ebay. If you do a seller search of his finished auctions he sold a few before. Maybe he has more.