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Archived: English Roadsters







AGE / VALUE:   FLEETWING WOMANS BIKE posted by: MICHAEL on 2/12/2001 at 10:05:41 AM
PLEASE HELP ME OUT HERE.....i have A wowans bicycle it is a FLEETWING it is a three speed sturmey it is Chrome and NOT painted. I would like to know anything about the FLEETWING line of bicycles if anyone has any information on these please e-mail me. I would appreciate this very much. I also have a few 3 speed rear wheels for sale differtent types of hubs.

Thank You
Michael


   RE:  FLEETWING WOMANS BIKE posted by Sheldon Brown on 2/12/2001 at 3:37:26 PM
"Fleetwing" was a private label belonging to the Massachusetts based Jordan Marsh department stores (subsequently subsumed into the Macy's empire.)

Yours is probably a Raleigh product.

See:
     http://sheldonbrown.com/english-3.html       
     http://sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer.html
     http://sheldonbrown.com/raleigh.html
     http://sheldonbrown.com/sa50.html
     http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/three.html
     http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/sturmey.html

Sheldon Brown






WANTED:   Raleigh Roadster Fork posted by: Mark on 2/12/2001 at 6:14:50 AM
I am looking for a replacement fork for a Roadster with
a date of 81 stamped on the AW hub. As heavy duty as these
bikes are they don't take well to much front end lifting/
hopping over obstacals. I may decide to straighten my fork
but I would need to know what the rake was originally, could
anyone suggest where I could find that specification?
Ultimately though a replacement would be best. Thanks in
advance for any responses.







AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Sporters in New Zealand posted by: Paul Cleary on 2/11/2001 at 3:12:42 PM
Hi,
our church has been given a matching pair of mens and womens Raleigh Sporters 3 speed bikes, about 1975 manufacture, to sell. These are in good condition, green with gold strips, B17 Brooks saddles, leather saddlebags, fenders, cottered cranks. Big problem is that they are in New Zealand! Should I advise that they be broken up and the valuable bits (saddles, bags) be sold?


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Sporters in New Zealand posted by GL on 2/12/2001 at 3:07:04 PM
Don't break them up. Sell them individually by auction. Charities here use this system for valuable items. They will put them on display and advertise that they will be sold to the highest bidder by a certain date. Pick a date from a fortnight to a month away. Bidding ends at exactly noon or whatever time you select. Have a memorandum book in which bidders can enter their name, address, and bid. The highest bidder at the designated time gets it.

These items are usually displayed in the show window of the charity's thrift shop (Oxfam shop). Perhaps a local merchant would oblige with a window display. It is for charity after all and it could generate some traffic and goodwill to the shop.






AGE / VALUE:   early english roadster posted by: sam on 2/10/2001 at 6:11:16 PM
Some neat stuff on ebay out of England . check out #553191058 also check out Keith's post under L/Ws -- very nice frame---sam







AGE / VALUE:   DL-1 Frame posted by: DaveW on 2/10/2001 at 12:06:24 PM
I have a DL-1 frame with the serial number 1328477. Can anyone help me date it? I didn't see this listed Raleigh serial number list, but maybe I just missed it. BTW, the seat tube measures 23 inches from the top of the bottom bracket. It's black with gold lettering. Definitely saya Raleigh.
Thanks.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   DL-1 Frame posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 2/10/2001 at 1:24:20 PM
Look at the rear Sturmey-Archer hub. Wipe away the oily grime that may be there and you'll see a date stamping something like 8/72 this would be August of 1972 the month and year the hub and most likely the bicycle was made.

Also, Sheldon Brown has a huge web site site that shows the evolution of the various decal schemes and equipment changes regarding these Raleigh cycles and this gives a feel, an overview of what era and years these were made. So jump in Sheldon's site and wade all thru it, poking about, looking at everything, A lot of work went into it and you'll enjoy it.

Does your bike have the enclosed chainguard? A bell? lights? rack? They are coolest when all tricked out with these goodies! Need something? Leave a post here! somebody (including myself) should be able to help you out. Sheldon's site is http://www.Sheldonbrown.com Exploded diagrams of this bike are posted here at OldRoads.com under the resources section and I can post out diagrams myself( free) if you'd like a few sheets. There are a good bunch of folks here who have these and we pretty much have it covered.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   DL-1 Frame posted by DaveW on 2/10/2001 at 2:26:32 PM
ChristopherRobin... thanks for the reminder to check Sheldon's site. Should have thought of that myself. What I have was the beginning of a project that is just the frame and fork of a DL-1. I was planning to attempt to restore it, but was fortunate enough to find a matched pair [ladies and mens] of DL-1 Tourists, that are easily rate a 9 on a 10 point scale for condition, for my wife and I to enjoy. It was well worth the 1700 mile round trip to pick these up rather than risk damage through packing and shipping. One is dated 12 78 and the other is 1 79 based on the hubs. Since I now have the Tourists and have, according to she-who-must-be-obeyed, many higher priority projects, it's clear that the frame will just languish in my basement. As such, I'd rather offer it for sale and it would be nice to be able to place a date to the frame for the benefit of any potential buyer.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Old Roadsters posted by: Pete on 2/10/2001 at 4:17:20 AM
Hi, just found this web-site. I have a great interest in old English roadsters and particularly Raleigh. I have a large collection of related Raleigh items from the tiny Winkie badge to an 18in. high alabaster Sir Walter. I have also quite a large collection of catalogues and information, including the 1950's Raleigh main dealers catalogue, which includes all the modles of all the ranges in full colour plates. I have also managed to find some useful NOS parts for 50's roadsters and Sturmey Archer (AG, FG, FW and AB). If you need any information or parts, please contact me.
Pete.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Old Roadsters posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 2/10/2001 at 12:16:48 PM
The alabaster Sir Walter, is this a Raleigh bicycle item or just a Sir Walter? This sounds interesting Where did you find that?

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Old Roadsters posted by Sheldon Brown on 2/14/2001 at 4:30:48 PM
The Raleigh "Sir Walter" logo illustrates one of the most famous stories about Sir Walter.

He was something of a dandy, and had a spectacular cloak that was the admiration of all. Supposedly he was in the presense of Queen Elizabeth when she found herself in some difficulty due to a mud puddle in her path. Sir Walter gallantly laid his expensive cloak on the mud so that his sovreign could cross without soiling her shoes.

This gallant story may or may not be true, but if a story is good enough, it doesn't really need to be true as well!

Sheldon "Folklore" Brown
Newtonville, Massachusetts
+---------------------------------------------------------+
| In skating over thin ice, our safety is in our speed. |
| --R.W. Emerson |
+---------------------------------------------------------+

   Welcome, Pete. You are among friends. posted by Kevin C. on 2/10/2001 at 6:00:32 PM
nm/

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Old Roadsters posted by Pete on 2/11/2001 at 1:52:55 AM
re: Sir Walter Raleigh
This is an 18" model of the trade mark that you sometimes see stamped on Raleigh parts. The figure is bowing, holding his hat in his left hand and a sheild in his right with his cape draped over. On the sheild is a picture of a bike and also the trade marks (Robin Hood, Rudge and SA). The whole thing is finished in silver and was designed as a counter display. There was a massive one (8-10' tall) in the main foyer at Lenton Boulevard. Nobody seems to know where is has gone.
Pete

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Old Roadsters posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 2/11/2001 at 11:57:26 AM
I will find out! I will keep on looking, it'll turn up, it's someplace. Some old time Raleigh employee must have it. Its in some cellar someplace. I doubt this would be destroyed. I thought about this myself. The Raleigh prototype car that is pictured in the Raleigh book. What happen to it? Thats another question.
Talk about your Holy Grail!

   Raleigh car posted by GL on 2/12/2001 at 3:15:15 PM
The Raleigh car business was sold to another company in about 1935. I don't know if Raleigh actually produced any or if they changed their minds and sold the prototypes and tooling before they got that far. I have a suspicion that they sold them for a short time.

The people who bought the car business renamed them "Reliant". I am told they chose a name beginning with "R" so they would not have to chisel the emblems off all the parts LOL.

Reliant is still in business, they have a web site. Try a Google search, I don't have the address.






AGE / VALUE:   SA anti-rotation washers posted by: Paul on 2/9/2001 at 9:52:01 PM
I had seen the 9 m/m washers listed, but doubted their
existence until Sheldon mentioned them. Can't get them here.
Sounds like they were not formed completely flat,i.e. they
are 'bellied' around the rectangular centre, where they are
lanced to make the 'ears'. Being case-hardened,and not flat,
they would soon crack when the axle nut was tightened. But
that's the older type, made of pressed steel. The newer
ones are a vast improvement, being machined or cast/moulded,
probably using their powder metalurgy process. Of course,
these will also crack if there is any misalignment/damage
at the fork dropouts. Also, one can upgrade the axle lock-
nuts to the later, larger size, thus giving a wider area of
grip at the dropouts.
The fact remains that it is courting disaster to use a
hub without the washers. From what I've seen, the cones
tighten up, or at least the rhs cone tightens, causing
internal damage. Cheers.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   SA anti-rotation washers posted by Albert on 2/10/2001 at 4:35:07 AM
Paul I beleive that that you are quit correct when you isuugest that the newer variety 9mm washer s may be made by using a powder metalurgy process; I also suspected this to be so. Anyone who has dropped a SA planet carrier knowes how brittle parts formed in this fashion can be. SA, I ssuspect, turned to what I beleive was for them a cheap and dirty way to manufacture the washers, used this process as a cost-cutting measure-----the consumer be damned. I cannot assume the cracking problem was caused by misalignment as cracking occured on four frames over a 20-year period. This was in fact on ever use of the washers; I finally had to devise a substitute. One-inch long by half-inch stainless steel strap was fitted to the dropout slot just under the axel flat. This is not an entirely acceptable solution and I a m still seeking suggestions. Should member of the planetary community wish to check the condition of any of these 9mm washers they have in use, it can only be done by removing the wheel.

   RE: SA anti-rotation washers posted by Sheldon Brown on 2/10/2001 at 10:40:23 AM
I don't think the old-style stamped anti-rotation washers were ever made in the 9 mm size, but I could be wrong.

I consider the investment-cast/sintered/whatever ones to be a considerable improvement, inasmuch as they have vastly superior serrations to keep the axle from pulling forward.

The better serrations mean that you don't need to tighten them as hard to keep the axle secure, reducing the risk of stripping axle nuts.

Most modern frames are set up for 10 mm axles, so even the 9 mm washers aren't really all that great a fit. If you're having problems, it might be a good idea to use a flat washer betwixt the nut and the anti-rotation washer, assuming you've got adequate axle strength.

In my own installations, I generally put the anti-rotation washer _inside_ the dropout, and use a old-style forged round serrated washer on the outside.

For very low geared applications, such as my 54 speed tandem and my 63 speed single, I double nut the left side, for extra-secure clamping against rotation.

See: http://sheldonbrown.com/otb.html

Sheldon Brown

   RE:RE: SA anti-rotation washers posted by Albert on 2/10/2001 at 11:35:01 AM
Excuses, excuses, excuses! How about just saying that it is also possible that the SA boys on Triumph Road in Nottingham just made a mistake on these washers. After all if they were perfect in all that they did, they wouldn't be out now looking for new jobs.

   RE:RE: SA anti-rotation washers posted by Paul. A. on 2/12/2001 at 5:19:33 AM
Woops! My mistake, thanks for the correction. The pressed
metal washers were most likely made only in the smaller size. I see that the Sachs gear hubs have a stamped/pressed
metal A/R washer...it has a pair of 'ears' at one end only,
to engage the slot. It fits the modern vertical dropouts,
and is widely used on recumbents here, with the 3 X 7 hub.
There are so many parts made these days by the powdered
metal process, for many different uses both in the home and
outside. I'm sure that S.A. are not the only manufacturer
to use this method. It's simply cheaper, faster and far less
labour intensive. And I'm sure that if a cast or machined
planet shell was dropped from the same height as the later
one, it too would break.
Curiously, the Sun Tour 3 speed hub never seems to merit a
mention. Well, wrong list, of course, but wait - so it may
have been made under licence, what about the improvement?
The axle and sun gear were made in one piece, unlike the
S.A. assembly, where more often than not the gear is loose
on the axle.

   RE:RE:RE: SA anti-rotation washers posted by Paul. A. on 2/12/2001 at 5:36:44 AM
That ain't fair, Albert. The land was sold from under their
feet! And where is the mother company based, which sold
them off? Try this site:
http://www.bikebiz.co.uk/infozone/sturmey_list.php3






AGE / VALUE:   for sale raleigh sport and tourist posted by: chip on 2/9/2001 at 8:12:02 PM
I have a raleigh sport and a raleigh tourist for sale both in great shape all original.both black mens.sport is 26" and has the double kickstand.the tourist is a 27" with the brake lever rods and tool pouch with tools hanging off the back of the brookes saddle. And also the built in locking rear tire.email me for pictures and prices.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   for sale raleigh sport and tourist posted by ChristopherRobin on 2/10/2001 at 1:27:56 PM
If its a Tourist with the rod brakes then it has the 28 X 1 1/2 Westwood wheels. It is always nice to find the tool pouch with the tools.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   for sale raleigh sport and tourist posted by chip on 2/12/2001 at 4:32:03 PM
My mistake the tourist has the 28" wheels.It also has the rack in back,the tire pump, and it has the built in locking device with the key for the back tire.It has the totally enclosed chainguard.the date stamped on the back hub is 57.






MISC:   Bicycle Billboard posted by: juano on 2/9/2001 at 6:50:48 PM
The Bicycle Billboard is back up. Here's the address:
www.angelfire.com/dbz/forum
(Oldroads, love your website too!)







MISC:   Steel to aluminum rims ????? posted by: Robert on 2/7/2001 at 10:47:26 AM
Have a Schwinn Sprint that I am real fond of. Will probably convert from the derailer to Sturmey 3 speed rear hub. I am looking at lacing some 27" Ayaran?? (spelled something like that) rims instead of the old knurlled steel ones that are on it. Will these be more likely to get dings / bent that the steel ones if i keep tires aired up properly ?
I live on a dirt road and am running 1 3/8 knobbies at the present. Not real rough but not glassy smooth either. I realize this is very subjective, but only experience I have with aluninum rims are thsoe on MTB's.

Thanks


   RE:MISC:   Steel to aluminum rims ????? posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 2/7/2001 at 11:35:23 AM
It's spelled "Araya" they make good rims

   Araya steel rims posted by Sheldon Brown on 2/7/2001 at 11:57:34 AM
It's true that Araya makes good rims, they are unusually smooth and precise in manufacture...however, the old 27" steel Arayas were notoriously weak. These date from before the Japanese had come to understand the needs of the U.S. market.

Americans tend to be considerably heavier than Japanese, and this disparity was even greater back in the '70s, probably due to poor diet in wartime and immediate postwar Japan.

The Araya steel rims were as good as any in pure quality, but they were too light to give reliable service for heavier riders. At least this was true with the wheelbuilding standards in effect back then, though with modern spokes and the higher tensions commonly used today they'd probably hold up better.

If you do use them, make sure to keep a careful watch on your tire pressure, because these, like all steel rims, ding easily if you bottom out your tire on a rock or pothole.

Sheldon Brown

   RE:Araya steel rims posted by Robert on 2/7/2001 at 12:43:57 PM
I was not as plain as I should have been. The Araya rims I would be using are aluminum. And as far as specifics, I'm 170# if that helps. Vast majority of riding is paved, just getting to pavement is a 1/2 mile stretch of dirt that can be pretty washboard, depending on recent weather conditions.
Appreciate the info so far.

   Araya aluminum rims posted by John E on 2/7/2001 at 5:59:22 PM
I think you will be OK with the Araya aluminum rims. I have owned several, spanning 1970 to 1990 vintage and 1" to 1-1/4" widths. You will enjoy improved braking effectiveness, particularly if you use KoolStop pads, and if you follow Sheldon's advice regarding tyre pressure and spoke tension, you will be fine. (I weigh just under 140lbs and have broken 2 cranks, 3 frames, 1 hub flange, and 2 rear axles, but no Araya rims.)

   RE:Araya aluminum rims posted by Wings on 2/7/2001 at 11:32:06 PM
John,
Good thing you don't weigh more!!!

   RE:MISC:   Steel to aluminum rims ????? posted by Albert on 2/8/2001 at 12:04:38 PM
Robert, glad to see that your getting rid of the derailer! Howevever, it is important for you to know that you must obtain 9mm antirotation washers to replace tge 7mm antirotation washers that you find on most disgarded SA hubs. These washers with 9mm 'ears' rather than 7mm 'ears' are need because the width of the dropout slot on your fram was designed to accommadate the derailer axel. Should you use the 7mm, the axel nuts will eventually loosen. This is caused by the reversal of the tork applied to the axel as the hub is shifted from low through high and back again. Now all of that said, I must tell you that the 9mm washers are rather difficult to obtain and that those are not very well design in that they seem to be maid of a brittle metal and soon crack. I would be interested in hearing from those in the planetary community who have come up with solutions to the problem. And please don't respond by say,"Why don't you just make the nuts really tight". IT doesn't work and you run the risk of "stripping" the SA nuts.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Steel to aluminum rims ????? posted by Paul Cleary on 2/8/2001 at 3:33:32 PM
Here in New Zealand, the 9mm washers are virtually impossible to find. I ended up making an equivalent using hardened aluminium 3/16" thick. I cut out a rectangular section 16mm x 16 mm. I drilled an 8mm hole in the centre and then widened it with a file to get a 10mm x 8mm flat oval hole that fitted snugly over the SA axle.
I then filed two parallel flanges in the aluminum around the outside of the hole to get a 10mm width ledge that would fit into the frame slots.
Thus the axle flats fit against the flat edges of the hole. The flat outside flanges fit against the flat edges of the frame axle slot.
Difficult to describe so I'd like to post a picture of it somewhere. Total time was about 3 hours and 2 discards.
Works fine as I'm now running a 44T front chainwheel with a 26T rear sprocket and things seem to be hanging in there OK.
Cheers
Paul




   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Steel to aluminum rims ????? posted by Albert on 2/9/2001 at 2:18:55 AM
Thank you Paul Cleary for sharing. Three hours labour/labor does however seem a bit much; I would certainly like to hear a few more suggestions. Of cousre, if a Shimano 3-speed were used in the conversion, there would be no need to fabricate anti-rotation washer as that hub is desighned for 9mm slots!

   RE:MISC:   Steel to aluminum rims ????? posted by Sheldon Brown on 2/9/2001 at 7:42:01 AM
We stock the HMW494 9 mm anti-rotation washers (as well as the more common HMW155 in the 7.9 mm size)

See: http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/sturmey.html

These are made of very hard steel so that the serrations will get a good grip on the dropouts, to keep the wheel from sliding forward under pedaling stresses. It is true that when you make steel extra hard, you also make it brittle, this is a fundamental metallurgical trade-off. Nevertheless, it is not that common for these to break when used in properly-sized dropouts.

Sheldon Brown

   RE:RE:MISC:   Steel to aluminum rims ????? posted by Albert on 2/9/2001 at 8:26:53 AM
Sheldon, Ihave used the SA 9mm washers for years on several bikes and they all crack! This is just another example of poor SA design. By-the-way, why don't the 7mm wahers crack?

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Steel to aluminum rims ????? posted by Robert on 2/9/2001 at 10:56:34 AM
I appreciate all the good info. Should put it to good use soon!

Thanks All

   RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Steel to aluminum rims ????? posted by ChristopherRobin on 2/9/2001 at 11:36:10 AM
How many people have had these crack on them? I never have had one break myself. You have a few extra on hand and you look it over a bit before hoping on the bike.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Steel to aluminum rims ????? posted by Albert on 2/10/2001 at 4:48:43 AM
Memberws of the planetary who wish to check the condition of these nasty SA 9mm washers must remove the wheel to do so; the pieces will then fall to the ground. Simple looking at them while the wheel is in place will not reveal the cracking. I also must add that the smuggnes s of Sheldon Brown's reply on the nature and cause of the problem does not suit him well. Aperson whose contributions to our field of interest have been considerable should not assume the position of speaking excathedra to the ignorant multitude. Replies on this site will show him to be of the mark on his comments thta absolve SA of all blame in the matter. Perhaps representing a retailer and exaimi9ng a problem with an unbiased eye is difficult.






AGE / VALUE:   Awful licence tags from long ago posted by: ChristopherRobin on 2/7/2001 at 10:23:01 AM
One thing I do not like is to buy a second or third hand bicycle and find that somebody in Rhode Island in 1963 permanetly cursed this machine to forever bear this tag. And 38 years later It will not come off , I guess it was not supposed to come off. On one hand it gives the bike character and it tells where it's been. But I don't like them and they are nearly impossible to get off without damaging the finish. I think the metal tags are cool on the other hand!


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Awful licence tags from long ago posted by Kevin C. on 2/7/2001 at 4:59:49 PM
I have gotten them off by softening them with a hair dryer then scraping them off with my thumbnail.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Awful licence tags from long ago posted by Wings on 2/7/2001 at 11:36:29 PM
I use a hair dryer on low setting and use a razor blade in a painter's window scraping tool. I keep the razor blade as near to parallel to the surface as possible and let the hot air blow on the decal. I use a light touch and it come right off with no damage to the paint below.
Next use Mossenbachers 3 in 1 glue remover -- to remove the glue residue. Try simple green first in case it is water soluble. Works good for me!

   Really old stickers are buggers to get off posted by Mike Stone on 2/9/2001 at 7:49:44 PM
Old stickers are tough to get off because they are so well adhered and the tag itself becomes too brittle to peel off.

You can use Liquid Wrench to work off the corners and then pull a little, and add more Liquid Wrench.

I have also used "Goo Gone" cleaning product that works really well for removing aggressive adhesive.

By the way, try some "Goo Gone" on an old pair of white handle grips and see how nice they look afterwards; sweet!

Mike






MISC:   20" folder gearing posted by: Robert on 2/7/2001 at 6:45:21 AM
Need some help from those who have some experience with 20” wheeled bikes and Sturmey Archer hubs. I plan on lacing an AW mdl. S/A hub to a 20” rim for a folder I am rebuilding. What is an acceptable front sprocket that would go with the 18t rear cog.

I am presently running a 20t cog on my 26” bike, and will change to a 22t in the near future. I believe the front sprocket is 46t on this bike. Need something comparable to that.

Thanks


   RE:MISC:   20 posted by Warren on 2/7/2001 at 7:42:06 AM
FWIW, if you are "performance" riding you need a very large front sprocket. I'm familiar with a Twenty set up as a fixed gear bike...it has a 60 tooth front and an 18 rear. Those little wheels need to spin a lot quicker than your standard rims.Check Sheldon Browns site for a
gear calculator.He has a lot of experience with 20" wheeled mounts.

   RE:MISC:   20 posted by Wings on 2/7/2001 at 11:47:53 PM
20 inch wheel rider here!
On your 20 inch with an 18 tooth rear cog -- if you use a 53 front chainring you will have the approximate following three gears: 1st = 44; 2nd (direct) = 59; and 3rd = 78.
Your 26 inch wheel bike with the 46 chain ring and 20 tooth rear cog has 60 gear inches. I put your direct drive as close to that as possible with a standard size chain ring. I hope that helps. Email me if it does not.

   RE:RE:MISC:   20 posted by Robert on 2/9/2001 at 10:54:33 AM
Thanks for all the info!






MISC:   Eadie Coaster Hubs posted by: Paul on 2/7/2001 at 6:03:06 AM
Is there a site for the old Eadie Coaster hubs, please?
I need a list of parts if poss, a diagram would be great.
Any sources of spare parts? Any help much appreciated.
Apologies if I've posted to the wrong list. Paul.


   RE:MISC:   Eadie Coaster Hubs posted by ChristopherRobin on 2/7/2001 at 10:03:05 AM
E-mail me please at: ChristopherRobin@starmail.com

   RE:MISC:   Eadie Coaster Hubs posted by Paulnz on 2/8/2001 at 12:54:46 AM
I have 2 hubs on rims, and a blow up of the hub, but no part numbers. In NZ the parts are as rare as hens teeth. e-mail me.






AGE / VALUE:   1963 Raleigh Sports w/Dyno and lights on ebay posted by: bikeyard on 2/7/2001 at 5:21:41 AM
1963 Raleigh Sports on ebay. ebay # 555657462. I can deliver it free to the Monson, Mass bike show feb 11 if your the highest bidder.







AGE / VALUE:   " PHILLIPS " Raodster posted by: KevinK on 2/6/2001 at 11:30:34 AM
Hi. I'm new to what is considered the English "roadster" bicycle, so I need some help and advice. I found a pair of mint, black Phillips fenders the other day. I was going to sell them, but now have decided to build a bike around them. I love English machines ( I've owned 8 MG"s, these were always called roadsters) So now I need to find a Phillips frame and get started. Please tell me all you can of what makes a bike a " roadster " and of Phillips Bicycles. Thank you, Kevin


   RE:AGE / VALUE: Phillips Fenders(mudguards)   posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 2/6/2001 at 12:34:02 PM
Phillips was a huge company before Raleigh bought them up and made their own Phillips brand bicycles before retiring the name. What size are these fenders? I mean to ask, for what size wheel bicycle are these to? 26? 27inch lightweight? 28 inch wheel roadster machine, What color? Are these metal or plastic? I don't believe the word Phillips was ever on a plastic or celuloid mudguard but I may be wrong.
very good find! What else was there? What did you pass up? Did you take some time and look around?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by sam on 2/8/2001 at 7:42:01 AM
Kevin,when lookin for a phillips note that some were made out side england,like in mexico.I don't consider this bad,just something to keep in mind.they show up on ebay sometimes-two nice ones out of dallas didn't sell but they were the 26".I think the 28"might sell better as they are compairable to raleigh 28"