OldRoads.com

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Archived: English Roadsters







MISC:   Homemade bike service stand plans????? posted by: Robert on 2/28/2001 at 4:38:30 PM
A couple of weeks back I found a site that had plans for a bike service stand.Was sturdy wood construction. Have not been able to locate it again.

Anyone know where I could find this site or one like it?

Thanks
Robert







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Remagnetization of Dynohubs posted by: Brian Hayes on 2/27/2001 at 6:08:33 PM
Well, the days are getting longer, less need for evening headlights, and my faithful old '57 AG is in need of some internal attention (pawl spring, I think). I thought I might go ahead and get the magnet refreshed, since the power is apparently down to around .9W. I saw a posting in the archives of a shop on the west coast who can do this. Does anyone know if they are still remagnetizing? Cost?

I've found plans on the web for making your own set of coils for magneto renovation, but these were not for circular magnets. Anyone have any idea where North and South is on a circular magnet? I'll make my own remagnetizer if it's not too expensive.

Brian


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Remagetization of Dynohubs in your town posted by GL on 2/28/2001 at 9:56:54 AM
You should be able to get your hub remagnetized without leaving town. Every good auto electric shop used to have a big electromagnet for this purpose. They use them for remagnetizing magnetos. I have had a couple of motorcycle magnetos recharged at the local auto electric shop and it never cost me a cent. So call up you local auto electric shop or rebuilder and ask if they have a remagnetizer.

By the way this may be one case where it pays to live in the sticks. Mine is a rural community where there are lots of tractor magnetos to rebuild. But even in the city there should be a magneto repair shop.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Remagetization of Dynohubs in your town posted by Brian Hayes on 2/28/2001 at 10:33:30 AM
GL,

What shape were the magneto's magnets? The web page with do-it-yourself magnetizing coils were indeed for magnetos, but they mention orienting the magneto magnet with north and south poles aligned properly. Where are the poles on a annular magnet such as that in a dynohub? I'm concerned that I might mess up the polarity; am I worried over nothing?

Brian

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Remagetization of Dynohubs in your town posted by Sheldon Brown on 3/1/2001 at 4:07:24 PM
DynoHub magnets have 20 poles, takes a special apparatus to re-magnetize them. A bike shop in California reputedly used to have one, but nobody seems to know what happened to it.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Remagetization of Dynohubs in your town posted by red on 3/2/2001 at 2:56:49 AM
The last time I asked, I was tole it was sold/given to someone. The person who was aware of this exchange/gift was going to try to track down the new owner. I never heard if he was successful in doing so. However, I may still have his e-mail address tucked away somewhere, so I'll try to look into it.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Remagnetization of Dynohubs posted by Bill Putnam on 3/6/2001 at 7:38:55 AM
Jobst Brandt has a remagnetizer for the Sturmey Dynohubs.
He remagnetized one for me a few years ago. Here is a
copy of a recent e mail correspondence:

___________________________________________________________
> Do you still have your remagnetizer, and would you be willing to
> provide this service for more people? I don't know if this would
> open a flood of dynohub magnets at your door, but there are several
> people that would appreciate the assistance. Are you aware of any
> other remagnetizers available for use?

Bill,

Sure, I've got it and I could hook it up. I'd have to see where the
parts are but I'm sure it's around. We even built a hopped up version
of it at HPL for a magnetics job that required even higher fields.
Let me know how and where you want to do this. I think it would be
great if I could get a person with a CAD system who wants to build one
and give him the drawings. It isn't hard.

Jobst Brandt
____________________________________________________________

I think it may make sense to try to get a bunch of Dynohub
magnet/armature assemblies together so Jobst doesn't have
to do a bunch of set ups/take downs. I'll see too what
Jobst is thinking about with a CAD system to build another.
I have access to a CAD (Computer Aided Design) but not a
CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) system so I don't know
what help putting the drawings on CAD would do.

Anyway, please post a reply if you would like your Dynohub
remagnetized. Note that the GH6 Front Dynohub may put out a
greater wattage than a AG rear Dynohub, I recall reading
that the greater ferrous mass of the rear hub lowered the
power output somewhat.

Bill Putnam

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Remagnetization of Dynohubs posted by Paul R, on 3/6/2001 at 9:01:04 AM
Bill,

I have a couple of dynohubs that need remagnetizing. Please let me know if you set something up with Jobst. I suppose I would need to find one of those elusive keepers or would have to ship the complete hub, right?

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Remagnetization of Dynohubs posted by Bill Putnam on 3/6/2001 at 9:25:24 AM
The dynohubs would need to be shipped with their armatures.
Since the magnets will be remagnetized, it is ok to pull the
armatures out to clean the air gap between the armature
and magnet. Then the magnet would be shipped with the
armature inside it. So no, you do not need a keeper to
do this.






MISC:   Sturmey-Archer Heritage posted by: kath on 2/27/2001 at 5:50:37 AM
From www.sturmey-Archer.com
(Sturmey Archer is now owned by Sun Race Sturmey Archer Inc., Taiwan)


---------------------------------------------------

There can be few people, certainly in the UK, who have not at sometime ridden a bike equipped with a Sturmey-Archer three speed hub, yet most people are unaware of the origins of the company and the events leading to the invention of the gear which took the world by storm.

It all started towards the end of the nineteenth century - a time of many new ideas and new inventions which were to greatly change our way of life. It was the time of the invention of the gramophone - and what an impact that has had on our lives. The time of the invention of the pneumatic tyre which completely revolutionised cycling.

1887 - Our story begins when an enthusiastic cyclist named Frank Bowden was cycling in the foothills of the Pyrenees and, although he had a powerful physique, he was forced to get off his bicycle time and time again. This made him think very hard and he made up his mind to resolve some of the problems of cycling.

1888 -Bowden acquired a financial interest in a small bicycle workshop in Raleigh Street, Nottingham, which ultimately became the world’s largest bicycle and component manufacturing unit, Raleigh Industries Ltd.

1902 - At last he found the answer to his dream. He met a schoolmaster Henry Sturmey, and an engineer, James Archer, who working independently, had each invented crude three speed gears. He brought them together and the combination resulted in the first three-speed gear patents. The first unit was marketed by the Three-Speed Syndicate Limited of Nottingham - later known as Sturmey-Archer Gears Limited. The response from the cycling public across Europe was instantaneous and the combined names of Sturmey-Archer became household words.

1905 - Before the Tour de France was thought of, the Touring Club of France organised an event called "Over the Alps" for which Sturmey-Archer received the highest award. 1905 saw the first Tricoaster, which was quickly followed by other Three-Speed Gears of improved designs.

1908 - Further accolades for Sturmey-Archer followed the "End to End" record by Harry Green who cycled from the southern tip of England to the north of Scotland - 1,340 kilometres - in less than three days.

1912 - Sturmey-Archer entered the motor cycle field with the invention of the first motor cycle Hub Gear. Then came the First World War; during which Sturmey-Archer manufactured motor-cycle gear boxes and engines for the Army.

1935 - This year saw the first incursion into the lighting field with the Dynolamp which was tyre driven and for which Sturmey-Archer gave exclusive selling rights to Raleigh.

Then came the famous Sturmey-Archer Freewheel. All this active innovation during the early thirties led to a great surge in hub sales.

1936 - Heralded the arrival of a gear which has never been surpassed - a gear which Far Eastern and European competitors have sought to copy - a gear which has made cycling easier for millions - the incomparable AW 3-speed Wide Ratio Gear came into being. No other branded bicycle component has ever gained such world-wide acceptance and today it still leads in the hub gear field.

1937 - Another design "breakthrough" was achieved. Sturmey-Archer turned its attention once more to lighting. Why not have car type gears, car type brakes and car type lighting? And so this ideal was achieved with the patent frictionless "Dynohub". The designers’ dream of a built-in trio had come true.

1939 - Yet another breakthrough! The first Four-speed Gear. This remarkable technical achievement was acclaimed by cyclists throughout the world and Sturmey-Archer received the award of the Cyclist’s Touring Club 1939 Plaque "for the Four-Speed Hub as being the greatest improvement in cycle design and equipment during the year".

1945 - Since the war, many changes within the gears occurred; the GH6 front dynohub, Four-speed Dynos, Battery Units, new Tricoasters etc.

1960 - Raleigh, Sturmey-Archer’s parent company, was bought by British Tube Investments Group.

1966 - The London Cycle and Motor Cycle Show, ‘Cyclex 66’, saw the launch of the first five speed hub.

The 70's and 80's saw a tremendous expansion of the Sturmey-Archer range with two new families of drumbrakes, in steel and alloy. The Elite range of aluminium hubs demonstrated elegance in a range of hub products. Front and rear brakes in 3 and 5 speeds were introduced.

1994 - The Sprinter 7 speed hub was introduced to the range of 17 models.

Recent developments in controls demonstrate Sturmey-Archer's investment in Product Development with Nimbus, Orion and Twistgrips to complement the 3, 5 and 7 speed ranges.

So what was the purpose behind this intensive research and development programme? -simply to make cycling easier and more pleasurable for the cyclist.

2000 - The sale of Sturmey-Archer to Sun Race Sturmey-Archer Inc. expands the range of bicycle components and ensures a strong future for this famous brand.



   RE:MISC:   Sturmey-Archer Heritage posted by Albert on 2/27/2001 at 10:23:48 AM
The only thing more revolting would now be a posting extoling the vertues of Thalidomide.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Sturmey-Archer Heritage posted by Richard on 2/27/2001 at 4:20:48 PM
Either that or the Shimano story.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Sturmey-Archer Heritage posted by kath on 2/28/2001 at 5:09:57 AM
I don't get it. What was revolting about that?

   RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Sturmey-Archer Heritage posted by Keith on 3/2/2001 at 1:11:11 PM
I don't get it either. If it was meant as an insult directed to your post, it reminds me to much of the Schwinn Forum, a style we've managed to avoid here for many years now.

   RE:MISC:   Sturmey-Archer Heritage posted by Paul on 3/3/2001 at 4:05:15 AM
Kath: Well Done! Good research, and good spelling.
There is no mention, however, of Thomas Reilly, who lost his patents to Sturmey, Archer, and Bowden. What integrity these guys must have had!
Someone is required to do a brief history of Sachs hubs - there is little or none about. 'Tho I don't know which list it would be posted on. Cheers.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Sturmey-Archer Heritage posted by Albert on 3/3/2001 at 11:31:20 AM
It doesn't surprize me that a few "don't get it". The SA press release posted by Kath was full of hype for a line of SA products that was notorius for its short-commings. The AW hub that slipped unexpectedly into freewheeling, the FW which beside having all the faults of the AW was difficult to shift into low gear, the S5. S5-I, and the S5-2 a hub that SA could never get right, the STAR series that had to be withdrawn, the SW that had to be withdrawn, shifters that went through alteration and never gotten right. All these and more! I suppose some reader of site will never getit. Too bad if the fellow who made a snide remark about speeling does't like my style; I don't like allowing a companies press release to be posted without a reply.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Sturmey-Archer Heritage posted by Albert on 3/3/2001 at 12:45:59 PM
Kath, I forgot to mention The TCW series of 3-speed coaster brakes thta would fail to stop under certain conditions. The hub was marketed to manufacturers of children's bikes! Say Kath, did a child of yours ever become seriously injured when his/her bicycle brake failed? Maybe you'll get that! Oh', and Keith how's my style? Is it acceptable to you?

   RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Sturmey-Archer Heritage posted by Keith on 3/5/2001 at 11:35:37 AM
No, Albert, it's not acceptable. You are ranting. Your original sarcastic and obscure post did not detail your objections, and hence was of help to no one. It would have been better to state your objections to the particular products you believe were defective, and the source of your evidence that children were injured by them, and forget the rather strange reference to Thalidomide, which, BTW, has been used successfully in trials for treating cancer, as it inhibits the growth of new blood vessels to tumors. In any event, this forum has been uniformly pleasant, informative, and polite for the 4-5 years I've frequented it. I'd like to see it stay that way, as opposed to the kind of neurotic sniping I've seen on the Schwinn forum.






MISC:   5 speeds posted by: Dennis McLean on 2/24/2001 at 7:09:58 PM
Any experiences w/ s/a sprinter vs. (sram) sachs 5 speed internal hubs. opinions good or bad welcome. Thanks


   RE:MISC:   5 speeds posted by Warren on 2/25/2001 at 5:48:12 AM
No personal experience but I was talking to a hardcore commuter the other day who wasn't real happy with his. The shifting was often "fussy".

   RE:RE:MISC:   5 speeds posted by Warren on 2/25/2001 at 7:23:40 PM
Sorry...he wasn't happy with the Sachs...must learn to read more carefully.






AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh parts posted by: Pete on 2/24/2001 at 10:15:13 AM
I have just got hold of some very useful NOS parts .BB axles 16 GC $12 . Complete 26tpi headsets $25 Front stirrup $15 Brake rod for down tube complete with bell cranks $20


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh parts posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 2/24/2001 at 2:14:19 PM
This one bike I added to the fleet one time. The parts were worn out completely.He rode it to death and kept on going, and going with the thing slipping in the only gear it would work in. Do you have Raleigh fixed bottombracket cups in the 26 t.pi. threading? I would like to buy a set of cups from you if so.
e-mail ChristopherRobin@starmail.com

I believe the bottom bracket spindle for the 28 inch wheel Raleigh Tourist D.L.1. is marked 08 GCC MEANING GEAR CASE CLEARENCE Have one of these available?






MISC:   Sturmey Archer SC Hub. posted by: Paul on 2/24/2001 at 7:42:12 AM
I need a new axle for this single-speed,coaster-brake hub,
and I think a normal CZ axle will do, but would like some
confirmation, if poss. The SC axle has the square on the RH
end, and a stepped thread with a fixed cone on the RHS,
similar to the CZ. It is dated 74 - 6 . Thanks.


   RE:MISC:   Sturmey Archer SC Hub. posted by Clyde on 2/26/2001 at 11:18:25 AM
Hey Paul,

I need one too, so if you find a source, please let me know. Sorry I don't know answer to your inter-changeability with CZ axle question, none of my exploded views or parts cross-references cover the S-A SC hub. Mine is on an Armstrong single speed, and is dated 69 5. One of the stepped threading is stripped on the brake arm side and I doubt my Locktite fix-it attempt will hold.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Sturmey Archer SC Hub. posted by Paul on 3/1/2001 at 4:09:55 AM
Thanks, Clyde. I was beginning to think I had the only surviving SC hub! Yep - I shall try a CZ axle, and let you know. Will need a few weeks, tho, very busy. BTW, Sachs still put out a small spanner which suits many old hubs.
It is a 'C' spanner one end, which suits the round locknut on the torque arm (L.H.) side, a square hole to turn the axle to adjust the cone, or to adjust the snail cams,depending on the machine. Cheers. Paul.

   RE:MISC:   Sturmey Archer SC Hub. posted by Paul on 3/1/2001 at 10:45:05 PM
Ken Martin -- thanks for your replies, but my mail to you
is returned. Can't get thru.
Cheers. Paul.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Sturmey Archer SC Hub. posted by Clyde on 3/4/2001 at 9:36:24 PM
Ditto Ken,
Attempt to reply to your e-mail to me about axle was returned too.
If you find an SC axle, please post here. Thanks.






AGE / VALUE:   1951 Rude WithWorth Sports Model posted by: Flavio Figliola on 2/23/2001 at 7:59:50 PM
Hi i own this bike it's a 51 RudgeWitWorth i,m looking for the headlamp assembly it's Half Bowl shaped and has a switch,on the underside of it,also has chrome housing and glass lens,If any one has information wear i can get one please email back ok. THank You


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   1951 Rude WithWorth Sports Model posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 2/24/2001 at 1:53:02 PM
This is called a "flat glass headlamp" and these are to the older Sturmey-Archer light sets, the Dynohub sets with the bullet tail light. Nice lights. The Swiss made Lucifer light sets are something else!






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Great Shop in Connecticut posted by: Geoff Rogers on 2/23/2001 at 10:00:10 AM
I discovered a terrific bike shop in Windham, Connecticut,
yesterday. It's Scott's, and Scott, the owner (predictably
enough) has a large collection of great old bikes and parts,
much of which is for sale. He has many English bikes, including
several DL-1 Raleighs (one lady's model, missing front wheel
but otherwise complete, for $125), some prewar machines, and
lots of others. He has a NOS 1967 Sports which he says "never sold"
so he still has it! He also has a lot of rare parts, and I found
him very accessible and enthusiastic about our peculiar little
hobby. I have no commercial relationship with Scott or the shop,
by the way; I just like the bikes and the person. The shop number is
860-423-8889.
Geoff Rogers
Shutesbury, Massachusetts


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Great Shop in Connecticut posted by Bob on 2/24/2001 at 7:05:31 PM
I called Scott and he reports that the Raleigh in question is a 1976 Sports. Also, it seems to be missing a wheel at present. He's a delight to talk to and really likes Raleigh 3-speeds.






FOR SALE:   Just in, no pictures or prices yet posted by: VVVintage Vintage Bicycles at OldRoads.com on 2/23/2001 at 7:16:48 AM
We've got more NOS Sturmey-Archer parts coming up soon to our "Bikes/Parts FOR SALE" page. We haven't taken pictures yet, but here's some of what is coming:

NOS Chaincase Elbows. New Old Stock, mint condition. Color is white. You can see an example as part number M405 on the chaincase diagrams on our "Raleigh/Rudge/Humber Exploded Diagrams" page:
http://oldroads.com/ra_exp.html

NOS 4-speed S-A hub, including cable, trigger, etc.

NOS cables, cables, cables. About 30 S-A boxes of cables arrived yesterday. Various colors, lengths and mountings. We have to re-do the whole cable section on our "Bikes/Parts FOR SALE" page.

NOS S5 parts.

NOS front hubs.

We expect the 2nd half of this cache of Brit Bits to arrive at the shop some time in early March.

Vin - VVVintage Vintage Bicycles
http://OldRoads.com


   RE:FOR SALE:   Just in, no pictures or prices yet posted by Brad on 3/1/2001 at 12:57:31 PM
Hi! Wow, if so I'd be interested in purchasing the NOS S-A four speed (assume and FW)! If this/these become available, please e-mail me!

Thanks!

Brad






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   What is it? posted by: Edward in Vancouver on 2/23/2001 at 7:10:25 AM
I had the opportunity to root around in a well established (ancient) bike shop the other day, looking for a 26tpi BB cups for my project. The mechanic just shoved a box full of stuff at me and told me this was all he had for old english bikes, and that I was welcome to whatever I wanted. I got the fixed cup, and a few bits and pieces, but I also picked up this neat grip shift:
It's made for the left handle bar and has two gear cables coming from it. It is very similar in construction to the SA three speed grip shift. There are only two positions, H and L, and directly underneath the unit there is a screw to tighten the lever, I guess as a kind of friction shift. There are two cables , one pushes, and one pulls, with a lead ball at the end of the cables. The grips themselves are made of white plastic, with "grip shift, 333" inscribed at the ends. What is it? Is it SA? The shifter is NOS, but not in a box or bag. I'd be willing to trade it in for parts for my project.

Also, I read somewhere that a innertube was available for quick changes. This tube is not circular, but rather a length of tubing. The idea is that the tube can be removed without removing the tire or wheel from the frame. Any input on this item?


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   What is it? posted by Ray on 2/23/2001 at 7:46:34 AM
Anything with the 333 on it is early Shimano. I have seen many of these around so it is not very valuable. As for the removable tube, I have not seen anything like this yet but I would be interested if anyone else has.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   What is it? posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 2/23/2001 at 9:58:32 AM
Raleigh 26 T.P.I. bottombracket cups and spindles are not found in most shops these days. This stuff is a bit hard to come by .






AGE / VALUE:   Who wants a service sheet for Perry Two Star? posted by: ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 2/22/2001 at 10:13:59 AM
I found my service sheet showing the Perry Two Star Coaster brake spare parts with the phantom diagram
e-mail for a free copy
ChristopherRobin@starmail.com







MISC:   Bike Parts USA????? posted by: Robert on 2/22/2001 at 5:40:42 AM
My local bike shop guy is retiring in March and shop will be closing. Have found Bike Parts USA. LOts of stuu listed and prices seem reasonable. Does anybody here have experience with these folks as far as how honest, reliable, quality of service??

Thanks







MISC:   Statue posted by: Paul on 2/22/2001 at 4:30:59 AM
There appears to be a statue with the frilly, Shakespearian/
Raleigh type of collar at this site:
www.wda.co.uk/wda/midwales/cycle.html
which is the National Cycle Collection at
Llandrindod Wells, U.K.


   RE:MISC:   Statue posted by ChristopherRobin on 2/22/2001 at 9:44:36 AM
This may very well be the one that was in the front foyer but there may have been more than one of these also. Thanks for the tip.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Statue posted by ChristopherRobin on 2/22/2001 at 4:25:13 PM
Somebody likely put forth quite an effort to see it preserved properly. Thats wonderful. I hope to make this place one of my stops when I go visiting the U.K.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Statue posted by Tim Powell on 3/1/2001 at 12:52:28 PM
If you visit the UK, this museum is probably the best one for old roadsters and bicycles in general. The man who runs it is a mine of information about bikes. I live nearby and visit at least once a month to talk to him. There is a lot of stuff on sale here, i.e. manuals and old books, magazines etc. Be sure to ask if you can look in the store rooms upstairs if you visit as there are twice as many cycles there as on display. I have told the curator that he should get a Web Site and advertise also mail order some of his books but he "doesn't get on with computers". While I remember, the next best museum to this one for bikes is in Coventry. There is also a lot of material for sale there as well.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Installing Nexus shifters on North Road Bars posted by: Nick Nichols on 2/22/2001 at 3:13:28 AM
I have tried to find a Nexus Inner-7 shifter that will work on the traditional North Road bar. I have tried the old alloy push button type, the rapid fire, and the twist grip, to no avail. The shifters Shimano offers seem to be designed for mountain bike bars. The problem is with the short section on the North Road bar that the grip and brake lever need to fit on. The shifters have to be mounted in the curve. This prevents them from working; they hit the bar or brake lever. You would think that Shimano would have at least one shifter that would work with this traditional bar. The only shifter I have not tried is the twist grip with the built in brake lever. Anyone know if this would work. Nick Nichols - DBA Rockfish Products, Covesville, Virginia


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Installing Nexus shifters on North Road Bars posted by Dorian Smith on 2/22/2001 at 9:34:28 PM
This might sound bush league but have you considered a friction shifter -- the old kind that mounted on the stem?

I don't know if using a friction shifter on internal hub gearing is difficult or not. But since you can't seem to find an indexed type of shifter to fit, you might consider this as a last option. A couple months ago Sheldon Brown thought it might be possible to use a friction shifter for a AW 3-speed.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Installing Nexus shifters on North Road Bars posted by Albert on 2/23/2001 at 7:13:25 AM
Rather than use a friction shifter with an AW hub, have you thought of jumping from a very high buliding as a more ceratin method of suicide?

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Installing Nexus shifters on North Road Bars posted by ChristopherRobin on 2/24/2001 at 1:36:02 PM
While you can use a friction shifter or a derailur shifter with a Sturmey-Archer hub it is not a good idea. I read in some of my service sheets that you can cause chipping of the gear teeth and damage the mechanism shortening the life and reliability of the hub. You would have to have a very precise feel for each stop and well, it was meant to be used with the Sturmey-Archer shifter that precisely shifts they way the hub requires.Click, click, click, done deal and no worrying about it. Sturmey-Archer advised users to shift gears "smartly" and to have the hub adjusted properly, oiled regularly with the proper type oil, without kinked cables, the fulcrum stop set up right, e.t.c. A shifter is like $8.00 to $10.00 and you can get them. This is even worse a practice with a four speed or something vintage. If you have a collection of hub parts and love to overhaul all the time and don't mind having it go awry on the bike path then keep doing what you have been. I have never seen this done.






WANTED:   Help I Need Advice posted by: Bruce on 2/21/2001 at 7:42:09 PM
Hello, It's me again, I Have received good advice on this site, so here I am with another question. I have a 58 sports with a 4 speed dynohub in the rear. 26 inch tires etc. It is a beauty and i don't want to ruin anything. My question is this. I understand the gearing is probably 46/18 presently. I would like to go with 46/22 to help with the hills in the area.MY bike has an enclosed chain guard. Will the larger sprocket in the rear fit within the chain guard? I will probably have it done at the shop, but don't want to take it in if it won't work properly. Thanks Bruce


   RE:WANTED:   Help I Need Advice posted by Norman F. Birnberg on 2/22/2001 at 10:15:43 PM
I have a 68' Superbe that originally came with the 18" tooth cog. When Sheldon Brown upgraded it for me, he
installed a 24" tooth cog and I was still able to keep
the 46 chainring and my hockey type chainguard.

I don't see why you can't get a larger cog and have
it fit in your enclosed chainguard and a larger cog
is definitely going to be a tremendous help in going
up hills. If you're in doubt as to whether you can
put in a 24" you should have your bike shop assist you
in making a selection to best suit your needs.

Above all, have fun riding!!!

   RE:RE:WANTED:   Help I Need Advice posted by ChristopherRobin on 2/24/2001 at 1:41:45 PM
You can get into mischiff with this if you or the shop mechanic starts moving the chaincase around, you can damage these if you are not careful, these chaincases scratch easily, and dent easily and there will be just enough room and no more. When properly set up these do not ratle and are silent or near silent. I hope whoever is doing this conversion has some of Sheldon in him. This is best done on a rainy weekday when the shop is not busy.

   RE:RE:WANTED:   Help I Need Advice posted by ChristopherRobin on 2/24/2001 at 1:42:31 PM
You can get into mischiff with this if you or the shop mechanic starts moving the chaincase around, you can damage these if you are not careful, these chaincases scratch easily, and dent easily and there will be just enough room and no more. When properly set up these do not ratle and are silent or near silent. I hope whoever is doing this conversion has some of Sheldon in him. This is best done on a rainy weekday when the shop is not busy.

   RE:WANTED:   Help I Need Advice posted by Bruce on 2/24/2001 at 2:44:57 PM
I think I will leave it alone. It is set up real nice for the riding I usually do (small hills). The only reason I wanted it to have lower gears was i am thinking of going on an 85 mile trip in a day later this spring, and it is rather hilly. I think I'll borrow a newer bike for this trip and leave mine stock. Thanks for the tips to all respondants.

   RE:RE:WANTED:   Help I Need Advice posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 2/25/2001 at 1:20:17 PM
You can switch these rear cogs,people switch these, I didn't mean to scare you off of the idea with my cautious posting. I think you can do this without messing it up just go slowly. You can use a 20 tooth cog inside there and it won't be so tight. How good is your shop? Do they have a mechanic on hand who has tinered with these?

   RE:RE:WANTED:   Help I Need Advice posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 2/25/2001 at 1:20:44 PM
You can switch these rear cogs,people switch these, I didn't mean to scare you off of the idea with my cautious posting. I think you can do this without messing it up just go slowly. You can use a 20 tooth cog inside there and it won't be so tight. How good is your shop? Do they have a mechanic on hand who has tinkered with these?