OldRoads.com

This is an archive of Vintage Bicycle Information.
For current Discussions, go to our main site: OldRoads.com

If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.

If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.

Archived: English Roadsters







FOR SALE:   Pair of 1968 Raleigh 3 speeds posted by: Bill Fitts on 4/16/2001 at 10:16:51 AM
I have a pair (M/F) of 1968 Raleigh 3-speeds I am interested in selling. Price very negotiable. I am looking to sell them to someone who has an appreciation for them rather than trying to get the most $. I live in Austin, TX







MISC:   Wheel / nipple failure during stress relief posted by: Robert on 4/15/2001 at 7:16:31 PM
I was just finishing up lacing a 27" Weirmann??? rim to a S.A. hub. After getting nice and straight, dished correctly, I was working around the wheel squeezing the spokes. Heard a snap. One of the nipple heads had separated from the rest of the shank of the nipple. I was reusing some stainless spokes along with the nipples that had been withe them. Was replacing the original rusty steel rim with the aluminum one.
I've trued lots of bike wheels , but never had a nipple snap in two before. Any comments. Too much tension? Didn't seem like it to me. Or just a fluke ?

Thanks
Robert







AGE / VALUE:   Hawthorne Roadster circa...? posted by: Warren on 4/14/2001 at 9:58:38 AM
I picked up five bikes from a shop a couple of weeks ago. I was after three CCM track frames from the 30s and 40s...the other two bikes were thrown in just to be rid of them. One was an unidentified womens roadster...alas the fork and frame were too bent and so I salvaged the parts. The other is an interesting BIG mens frame. It's a Hawthorne...made in Brantford Ontario, so I think it is unrelated to the Wards-Hawthorne line in the US. It has a Fauber "Standard" crank with a patent of 1898 on it. Although it is a one piece crank/axle setup, the chainring is connected with 4 bolts and has a lovely scrolled pattern. The rear drops not only face backwards but down as well and the axle retainers are two threaded bolts that come in from the inside of the triangle, similar to balloon tire models. A net search revealed two other references to this Fauber crank...one in Australia and another on a 1920 Mead Ranger that was for sale from Cycle Arts. So this is a stab in the dark...can anyone fill in any of the blanks on this early roadster...what kind of wheels should have been on it, possible dates, company background etc...

Thanks







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Record Ace, Royal Scot posted by: Geoff Rogers on 4/13/2001 at 9:09:47 PM
Today I picked up some interesting old British bikes from an older fellow who has about 300 bicycles in his back yard and outbuildings. I would estimate about 40 of these are British. The ones I acquired today are two Raleigh Sports, a 1968 (or so), weathered and missing its rear wheel, a 1960 Raleigh Sports, weatherd and without saddle or post but restorable, and with Dynohub, a 1969 Royal Scot (low priced Raleigh - made bike) with a bent gold frame and nice Wrights leather saddle, and--best of all (I think)--a 1950 (?) Raleigh Record Ace 3-speed clubman bike.
I seek advice/feedback on the Record Ace. It's rough, having sat outdoors for a long time, and missing its plastic fenders and saddle. All bearings were frozen solid, although I have gotten most things freed up. Cables etc are all trash. The original black paint is very oxidized and there's some surface rust, but the original decals, though faint, are intact. I shined up one small area of the paint and it came up fairly good, but the decals will not take cleaning or wax, so I will leave them alone. The front wheel is supposed to be a radially-spoked Endrick; in fact, it's a normal raised center Raleigh wheel. Pedals are rubber tread Raleigh from a lady's bike (shorter style). Cranks look like normal Raleigh style, with one-piece chainwheel. Best of all, it has molybdenum tubing, according to the ST decal, which I think means Reynolds 531. The bike weighs in at 27 lb, with that thick front wheel and a SA 3-speed hub.
Questions: I think it's a 1940, because the AW hub has no date except a "0". Didn't someone write here recently that prewar hubs carried only the last digit of the year of manufacture?
The handlebars are normal North road adjustable (caliper brake type) raleigh style. Should they be fancy dropped bars, and if so, where can I find some? For now, I turned them upside down, like some of the cheaper Raleigh club bikes in my old catalogs, but is that okay for this one?
Anybody have some original plastic fenders, or know of a decent substitute?
And any advice on leaving the weathered, partly missing paint intact versus stripping and a repaint with new decals from LLoyds?
What about tires? Should they be 26 X 1-1/4, and if so, where do I find some?
My plan is to get the machine in decent, rideable shape and use it myself.
I won't tell anybody what I paid for it, but it was very reasonable indeed. I plan to go back next week and pick up another half dozen bikes from this fellow, including a prewar Gazelle 3-speed and one or two Sports bikes. Now I need parts for the ones I bought today for parts but later decided they are too nice to use for parts. Sheesh.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Record Ace, Royal Scot posted by Greg Groth on 4/13/2001 at 11:32:37 PM
Can't answer much for you, except maybe the tires. I had a 26 X 1 1/4 EA1 tire completely self destruct last week. I think someone on this board told me that these tires were very hard to come by. I discovered by accident that the Schwinn 26 X 1 1/4 S5/S6 tire is the same size (tires are even marked EA1 as well). Tires were $7.99 at LBS (gumwalls were $8.99)

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Record Ace, Royal Scot posted by Paul on 4/14/2001 at 6:00:19 AM
My 1938 Hercules has an S.A. hub with just a single AW 8 (meaning 1938) on it, which a very reliable source told me was the first made AW hub by Raleigh. Great prewar rod bicycle! It has 26x1 1/2 tires!

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Record Ace, Royal Scot posted by Warren on 4/14/2001 at 10:23:49 AM
It was probably me prattling on about the 26 x 1 1/4 tires...yeah they are harder to find. The originals would have been high pressure and narrow. I've got a few used ones but I don't have a source for NOS. If you find some or if the Schwinn work for you I could dig up a decent used Endrick rim for you. A very nice bike to restore...the original paint and decals on those bikes were quite nice.

Cmon...tell us what you paid, (kidding)...I want one!

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Record Ace, Royal Scot posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 4/14/2001 at 11:04:03 AM
These varied a lot and we really need to see some photos. Congratualtions in getting past the ice problem. Did you get my lenghty e- mail? I gave you some tips to go on.

Is this a 531 bike?

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Record Ace, Royal Scot posted by ChrisatopherRobin2@starmail.com on 4/16/2001 at 5:48:04 PM
Raleigh Chopper bicycles and parts, look for them, wherever you are. Also tall frame 26 inch and also 28 inch tall frame Raleigh Roadster bicycles with 28 inch wheels and rod brakes.






AGE / VALUE:   Whitworth Tap and Die on E- bay posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 4/13/2001 at 12:46:29 PM
Take a look at Item # 579446954 Whitworth BSF thread Tap and Die set
Not my auction, no relation to seller


( I pulled my set out of the dumpster 14 years ago after the crazy shop owner threw it away. I got very dirty that day.







AGE / VALUE:   1951 Rudge WitWorth English Roadster posted by: Flavio Figliola on 4/12/2001 at 8:51:27 AM
I,ve Purchased this bicycle about two and a half years ago It,s made by the same company that manufactured motorcycles (Rudge Witworth)It's all original and complete fully accesorized with the gadgets the company engineered for it. When your riding these bikes, the ride is truly english.It's one of my best pieces in my collection.I will never sell this piece. it was very hard getting the owner to sell it to me but the price was met.If any body has any ideas how many were produce in 1951 please email.Thank You.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   1951 Rudge WitWorth English Roadster posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 4/12/2001 at 2:01:27 PM
I'm glad to hear you like the bike. Is this a 26 or a 28 inch wheel bike?






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Crank question. posted by: Greg Groth on 4/11/2001 at 8:19:15 AM
Went to install a set of rattrap pedals on my old Hercules a couple of days ago, and discovered the crank was drilled out for 1/2" pedals. What gives? I thought all 3-piece cranks were 9/16" (except for those real big pedals needed for DA cranks a while back). Was this a common trait among english bikes? Is this a way to possibly determine the age of the bike? Thanks in advance.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Crank question. posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 4/12/2001 at 5:16:38 PM
I have a Raleigh crank that is 7 inch long with this drilling. I wish I knew what the story with this is too.
It is useless to me unless I want to drill it out and re-tap it.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Crank question. posted by Warren on 4/13/2001 at 5:35:19 AM
FWIW, I've got a bike catalogue from the 30's that lists both sizes of axle diameters. There doesn't appear to have been a standard.






AGE / VALUE:   vintage raleigh on ebay posted by: Donald on 4/10/2001 at 6:36:28 PM
I see there is a nice vintage raleigh tourist enclosed chainguard with tool pouch on the seat.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   vintage raleigh on ebay posted by same on 4/10/2001 at 6:41:37 PM
I guess I should mention it is on Ebay.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   vintage raleigh on ebay posted by same on 4/10/2001 at 6:47:25 PM
this is the item #1133229317






MISC:   Indian bicycle URL posted by: Dewane on 4/10/2001 at 4:23:30 PM
Here's an interesting site. TI (Tube Investments, Ltd.) lives!

The SLR and Standard bicycles are interesting. I'd be careful about buying any of these, however; I don't know much about bicycles but I know a bit about motorcycles. I've heard very bad things about fit, finish and general metal quality of the Indian Royal Enfield motorcycles. Hopefully they've gotten better.

http://www.tiindia.com/cycleprodrng.html#std



   RE:RE:MISC:   Indian bicycle URL posted by Dewane on 4/13/2001 at 9:53:48 AM
Warning: Off-topic post, I apologize.

I really didn't write what I meant to write in my last post.

India started to make Royal Enfields in 1955. They are making the same motorcycle in 2001, except for this year when they produced the "Machismo" 350 with electronic ignition, which isn't being exported to the states.

If you are looking for an interesting motorcycle with a long pedigree, the Enfield is a great motorcycle. It is lacking in modern conveniences, such as a kickstart, but that is some of its charm. And every motorcycle rider should ride a big 1 cylinder motorcycle at least once in their lives.

I'll ride anything from a moped to a Harley and they all have their good points, including the Enfield.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Indian bicycle URL posted by Dewane on 4/13/2001 at 9:59:26 AM
Please replace "kickstart" with "electric start", sorry. I will be quiet now.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Indian bicycle URL posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 4/13/2001 at 12:37:15 PM
I would love to run off and go to India and make these! Put me in the press shop making enclosed chainguards.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Indian bicycle URL posted by India on 4/14/2001 at 7:42:17 AM
Working a press shop in India, making chaincases. Sounds like fun to me. Don't forget the salt tablets, though.

   RE:MISC:   Indian bicycle URL posted by sam on 4/12/2001 at 8:22:12 AM
I have two of the India bicycles,a roadester and a sport model.Both are lacking when compaired to tru English bikes.The price of the roadester(1 speed) new is about $100.Compaired to 3 or4 times(or more) that price for a vintage roadester.Point is the price--you get what you pay for.The price of the motorcycle was less and so was the quality of finish.Same for the bikes.But both were still Ok riders IMO---sam






AGE / VALUE:   Tire pump for Raleigh Superbe posted by: Michael hancock on 4/10/2001 at 2:49:24 PM
NEEDED - original tire pump for a Raleigh Superbe. The color appears to be British racing green.
Thanks....Michael


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Tire pump for Raleigh Superbe posted by Bob on 4/10/2001 at 4:38:21 PM
The color you cite is probably Raleigh's Bronze Green, which bears some resemblance to the British Racing Green used on some Brit sports cars. I believe the tire pumps were crome.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Tire pump for Raleigh Superbe posted by Michael on 4/11/2001 at 6:58:42 AM
Thanks for the info on the tire pump Bob. I'm glad to know about Raleigh Bronze Green. That squares with what the guys at the paint shop found. I told them I thought is was British Racing Green. They began on that assumption, but found they had to add red to get a match.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Tire pump for Raleigh Superbe posted by Geoff Rogers on 4/11/2001 at 5:58:25 PM
I think you are both right about the color. that is, early Superbes (like my '47) were painted a non-metallic very dark green, similar to British racing Green. Later ones were Bronze Green, as with many later Raleigh Sports bikes.
A word about British Racing Green: there are many, many variations, depending upon the car maker and vintage. Austin-Healeys, for example, could be ordered in British racing Green Light, Medium, or Dark, and none of these necessarily matched the BRG of Triumph, Jaguar, Bentley, etc.
Some of the pumps were black, also.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Tire pump for Raleigh Superbe posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 4/12/2001 at 1:18:04 PM
Sheldon Brown shows a chrome tire pump and it has green paint on it. I believe the Raleigh factory did this. Also tire pumps came in a bunch of styles like black plastic, chrome, e.t.c.The air pumps varied slightly over the years.

      Tire pump for Raleigh Superbe posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 4/12/2001 at 5:24:02 PM
My 1980 Raleigh book shows 5 diffrent kinds. Super,(Inflators Apex "Super R.I. crested Alloy Barrel-Plastic covered Gear Rinks Schrader- Valve Novo, Clarion, (plastic, schrader valve type) Racer, and a "Polished Alloy" model. Apex 15" polished alloy, Apex 12" polished alloy,Apex 16 polished alloy presta






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hub oil posted by: Jenandron on 4/10/2001 at 8:53:22 AM
What kind of oil can we use in our sturmey aw hubs? We have 2 bikes and don't want to purchase a big bottle of fancy raleigh oil. Can we use standard 10w30 motor oil? Or all-in-1 oil? Or cooking oil?


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hub oil posted by sam on 4/10/2001 at 12:05:13 PM
Use sewing machine oil.Buy it at the singer store or other places where they sell sewing supplies---sam

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hub oil posted by Bill Putnam on 4/10/2001 at 1:30:41 PM
Absolutely DO NOT use 3-in-1 oil. This will gum up the
internals. 10w30 is ok, or any lightweight non-detergent
motor oil. Of course, if you use the genuine Sturmey-Archer
oil you won't go wrong. And remember a little oil added
often is the way to go-a few drops at a time.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hub oil posted by Albert on 4/10/2001 at 4:32:47 PM
Genuine Sturmey Archer oil WAS little more than engine oil. 10W-30 detergent (API SH or so seems to work just fine ). I can see little reason to avoid a detergent oil. Automtive type gear oil (75W is near the viscosity of 30 weight engine oil) might be an interesting choice; I've never tried because of its peculiar odor. This oil with a rating of GL4 or GL5 will not be "whiped clean" by meshing gears. So, anyone with a diminished sense of smell might like to give it try.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hub oil posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 4/10/2001 at 4:52:47 PM
Oh, Albert. Regarding the automotive type gear oil I remember getting some of that on my clothes and it is a hideous, awful smell. I believe it would gum up the pawls asd interfer with the operation of the hub and cause you grief. Stay with the light sewing machine oil that says bicycle gears on the label and you will be ok. I would not use a vegatable based oil in the hub. This has been covered here before and Sheldon Brown has excellent pages about British bicycles/ Raleigh 3 speeds and a ton of other info at http://www.Sheldonbrown.com
I just had my supper and you made me remember that awful smell of gear oil. Oh.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hub oil posted by Jenandron on 4/11/2001 at 7:37:03 AM
I want to thank you for the quick answers to my question. I had a feeling I wouldn't need to by 12 ounces of expensive oil, and the people here would know of a good substitue.

The people who contribute here are helping many experienced and novice collectors and bicycle enthusiasts. You make this the number 1 resource for old bike information. THANK YOU!

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hub oil posted by Albert on 4/11/2001 at 8:12:05 AM
Christopher, gear oil is indeed vile! I would like to see a brave soul experiment with 75w gear oil. It might not prevent pawl action ; the great bugaboo or " gumming - up" problem and it should be very long lasting. Also, it should provide excellent lubrication for the heavily loaded planet gear pinions.

   Phil oil posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 4/13/2001 at 12:01:07 PM
Have you bewen using the Phil oil in the hub? If so, how has it been running? The Phil oil is good stuff. I use the grease.

   What about automatic transmission oil? posted by GL on 4/13/2001 at 1:15:03 PM
What about automatic transmission oil? I have used it in English
motorcycle clutch housings with excellent results, very good for
the clutches and chains.

It should be ideal for the 3 speed hubs. Auto transmissions use
planetary gears like SA and they are under a lot more stress.
The trans fluid is thin but stands very high pressure and it clings
to the parts without making them sticky.

Has anyone tried this?

Personally I use a plastic squeeze bottle of "Turbine Oil" from
the home hardware. It has a plastic tube that pulls out of the
bottle almost a foot for easy filling. This sold me.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hub oil posted by sam on 4/12/2001 at 8:10:08 AM
One other note on hub oil---Singer classic industral sewing machines were made in England---Hummmmmm

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hub oil posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 4/12/2001 at 8:24:27 AM
At the tailor shop they use these ancient Singer machines with the cords running around the wheels they use these to hem pants(slacks) cuffs and do buttons. They would never stop using these.Relaible, efficient, durable, not computerized and they don't need it to be.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hub oil posted by Randy on 4/12/2001 at 4:33:59 PM
I've been using Phil Wood Tenacious Oil (gotta love a name like that!) The oil discussion parallels oil discussion in the machine tool email lists. Even within lubricating oils, there are different types. Some are designed for active circulation, and run off surfaces. Others are designed to stay on surfaces. The Phil oil seems to be of the latter type, which is what we really want for our epi hubs--thin, but clingy...

   :ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Pondering the many possibilities of the perfect hub oil posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 4/14/2001 at 11:07:01 AM
Wouldn't anything clingy put strss on and impede the free action of the pawls?

   RE::ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Pondering the many possibilities of the perfect hub oil posted by Randy on 4/14/2001 at 10:41:08 PM
No, it's not that thick. It's worked very well for two seasons now and doesn't affect pawl operation at all. Now, what it might do in one of the SW's...? :-) I don't have any of them laced in wheels so I can't say.






MISC:   PHILA. BRIT BIKE WKEND posted by: Albert on 4/10/2001 at 7:59:32 AM
I would like to hear from those who attended. Your account would be very welcomed by those of us who were unable to attend.


   RE:MISC:   PHILA. BRIT BIKE WKEND posted by willie on 4/10/2001 at 3:48:57 PM
I visited the bike swap area on Market Street on Sunday morning April 8; it was drizzling and turnout seemed light. Several dealers were present with many complete bikes for sale; very few parts, which is what I was looking for. Saw a full chaincase old Sports, Torists, a couple of drop bar early racers, overall quite interesting. Two years in a row of wet weather during this event, let's have this event on a sunny weekend!

   RE:MISC:   PHILA. BRIT BIKE WKEND posted by Jeff on 4/13/2001 at 8:59:55 AM
I received excellent directions to the show from the folks that put it on. They have a very nice old school style shop. I was hoping to see some early Roadsters and find some parts for a couple bikes that I have at the swap meet on Sunday. However with a vendor turnout of six guys the selection was very thin. (But it was nice to see Sam again!)The weather people lied to us and the 70 degree day they predicted turned out to be a 40 degree damp dreary day. Looks like it would have been a fun event if the weather would have been nice and we would have participated in some of the rides they offered. I'll wait and until the fall Trexlertown show to get my parts. All we picked up at the show was a parking ticket. Parking isn't free in Philly on Sundays. Whups!!

   It was a Blast posted by Ray on 4/13/2001 at 12:31:06 PM
Well I made it there and yes the weather would not cooperate but I had a blast anyway. There was a small turnout of dealers and only whole bikes showed up. I took out my early 70s Raleigh brown Mint 3 speed for display only. My friend took out his 62 Raleigh Boulevard Tourist and that drew a lot of attention. He also was not selling just showing. I saw a great green 4 speed, 28 inch wheel, rear dynohub, full chaincase, battery tube and light, rod brake Raleigh sell for $600 and it was worth it. At around 12 the bike shop sponsor asked if anyone wanted to go for the ride. Me and about 9 others joined in. We rode to the train station and boarded the train to go up to Chestnut Hill and then rode back. It was a fantastic event, I enjoyed it a lot. I rode the Mint bike and my friend his Boulevard Tourist. Met a great group of people and rode through Philly for about 5 hours. The weather soon became no problem and I found myself having a blast on an English bike tour. Saw the Beatles Magical Mystery Tour Bus on Market street and spotted a proper lady walking her Corgi on the path. At the end of the ride the bike shop owner invited us in for Tea and Scones. Great end to a great day. Will do it again next year and this time I will bring all my parts and corner the market.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   PHILA. BRIT BIKE WKEND posted by brooks on 4/14/2001 at 5:54:31 AM
Rain or shine, the event is DEFINITELY worth it! The interchange of information and opportunity to view other bikes is something you're just not going to find elsewhere. Add to that the chance to see "The Collections" of Brian in Fishtown and Curtis Anthony at Via Bicycles, and it's a trip to paradise! I brought my 10 year old son on a Rudge Sports, and his 13 year old friend on a ladies Raleigh Roadster- they had more fun than anyone! Isn't that what it's about? By the way- I'm the guy that bought that roadster, and yeas, it is definitely worth it.

   RE:RE:MISC:   PHILA. BRIT BIKE WKEND posted by Kevin C. on 4/11/2001 at 5:54:20 PM
Any chance of finding a location under cover?

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   PHILA. BRIT BIKE WKEND posted by Brett on 4/15/2001 at 1:55:30 PM
Cold and rain shouldn't affect a "Brit Bike Weekend" at all. That's typical English weather!






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Philly Show posted by: Paul on 4/9/2001 at 8:24:07 PM
Did I miss the annual Philly Show it next week?







MISC:   Bottle generators posted by: k3eax@yhoo.com on 4/9/2001 at 8:26:55 AM
All of my spares come from the township transfer yard. I have had good luck over the years in obtaining all that I need other than working generators. Very, very few that I find work. Has an one had success in repairing these things. They seem not to be made to be repaired. Any replies would be appreciated.


   RE:MISC:   Bottle generators posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 4/9/2001 at 9:20:49 AM
Good question! I think that these were/ are made to be discarded and replaced when they fail. I have some diagram/ catalog stuff. I will look it up and see if any internal replacement parts were sold.
The twelve volt generators are harder to find at least I think so. I used to have these rubber caps that went over the little serrated wheel that rubs against your tire. These were to protect the tire from wearing out prematurely.

   RE:MISC:   Bottle generators posted by Michaelw on 4/18/2001 at 4:25:26 PM
Modern generators are generally much better than vintage ones, more durable, efficient and repairable. The Swiss -made Nordlicht used to rule the roost, but had been superceeded by the ultra-efficient, low drag Lightspin, with a built-in storage device for a standlight. The Nordlicht still has those classic shiny looks and the roller is replaceable , metal or rubber.






MISC:   Armstrong, sort of...& NOS "Drakes" posted by: Jim on 4/9/2001 at 7:25:10 AM
As most regulars of this discussion area have come to learn, British bicycles are difficult to date and sometimes to establish the origin of. The veil of mystery is often lifted by Sheldon, Keith and many other fans of Sheffield steel. I have an Armstrong, 26" wheels, center pull cable brakes (yes, center pull) Dynohub, BSA 3spd hub & trigger, Raleigh thimble fork, "Armstrong" spelled in the chainring, chrome plated mudguards with a Phillips badge on the rear. Is it possible that this is the way this bike came from the factory ? - it appears so despite the numerous names. I bought thru ebay from a seller located near where I live. He also had many NOS "Drakes" a B line Raleigh product manufactured in India. 3 speeds are SA equipped, 5 speeds are Simplex. He also had a good number of older British and American bikes and parts. More importantly, seemed like a really decent guy.