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Archived: English Roadsters







AGE / VALUE:   HUMBER/RUDGE PARTS NEEDED posted by: Mario Romano on 7/13/2001 at 5:17:36 PM
Hello friends, I need some old parts for my bike. I live in Brazil, so, how I could pay for it if you have real ones for selling?
I need the following parts, and give me an "cotation" for it...
-mudguards
-mudguard ornament
-total chain cover or simply chain cover
-rear wheel lock
-rear brake parts
-badge
-owner´s manual (if it exists)

Thanks a lot!
Mario Romano







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   700 rims on 26" wheeled roadster frameset ???? posted by: Robert on 7/12/2001 at 5:45:41 AM
How will 700 rims fit under the fenders of a 26" wheeled roadster frame? Frame is same size as a Raleigh Sport. Will they fit under the fenders? What would be a good width of rim in this size?

Thanks


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   700 rims on 26 posted by Dale Oswald on 7/12/2001 at 8:52:52 AM
Check the tire size charts on the info section. They're close. I personally have put 27" wheels on a late-60s Superbe and they fit using the original brakes, but I had to splice in a two-piece fender due to close clearance at the fork and rear brake bridge. The 700s are a little smaller, so they'll probably fit just fine.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   700 rims on 26 posted by Norman F. Birnberg on 7/12/2001 at 11:39:18 PM
I have a Raleigh Superbe set up with 700 c wheels. They've Mavic T221 rims. That's held up pretty good considering the new internal hub was a Shimano Nexus 7 Speed. To get around the problem of brake reach the bike has drum brakes on both wheels instead of traditional sidepull calipers on the frame. The wheels have Continental Top Touring 2000 700 x 32C tires which are the largest that can still clear the fenders. It makes for a pretty cool ride.






AGE / VALUE:   Decals, transfers and stickers. posted by: Matthew on 7/11/2001 at 1:29:47 PM
I say chaps you probably already know about H.Lloyd Cycles and there extensive range of hard to find and impossible to find decals for your restoration projects. I expect Sheldon and ChristopherRobin know of them but in case any of you are looking for the finishing touches to put on your nearly completed cycle then try www.lloydscycles.co.uk They have plenty of Raleigh, Rudge, Falcon etc.etc. and a whole load for Choppers. Give them a look and I hope you find what you are looking for.
Safe riding! Matthew

P.S. Yes, Christopher there is no excuse for painted threads.







AGE / VALUE:   Long Distance on Roadsters, Cont'd. posted by: Dale Oswald on 7/11/2001 at 7:53:46 AM
I've been helping out with the Cycle Erie Canal tour for a couple of days (including ferrying myself to/from truck driving by bike). The tour is 400 miles in 8 days. There's a fellow doing the tour on a '1915 Raleigh, three speed, rod brake machine. It looks like it's been in a barn for 75 years, but on your basic flat ride it works out well for him. The original hub was beyond repair, he's replaced it with a 60-ish AW.

We didn't have a chance to chat much so I didn't catch his name, he could be one of us for all I know. We'll be in contact, I'm selling him a TCW...


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Long Distance on Roadsters, Cont'd. posted by Albert on 7/11/2001 at 1:22:16 PM
Well Dale, I rather suppose that is an attempt to get rid othe old boy. That TCW,as I noted in an earlier posting, is discribed by Tony Hadland in book, The Sturmey Archer Story, as having a no brake position between 2nd. and 3rd. speed. Simply put if your gear adjustment is not quite right, you may not be able to stop untile you realize that you must rely soley on the handbrake---- a realization that could possible arrive too late! A fellow at Triumph Bikes in Philadelphia, a dealer familiar with SA products, says that their policy is to throw-away TCW's. SA's later 3-speed coaster,the S3C is superior in that it has an improved design that corrects the defect of the TCW.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Long Distance on Roadsters, Cont'd. posted by Dale Oswald on 7/12/2001 at 8:46:31 AM
The buyer is aware of the shortfall and wants the hub. I'm not interested in starting this discussion all over again.






MISC:   WHAT IS THE VALUE OF AN ALTERATION? posted by: Cyrus de Starlina, The Gypsy on 7/10/2001 at 5:14:17 PM
I have an english roadster bike called Rudge, it is from 1952 approximately, I gained it recently from my father as an heritage gift, but I noted it have, originally, a double bar frame, but one bar (the low bar) was cutted out. Asking my father, he told me he don´t like double bar bikes and decided to cut the lower bar for to have an virtually "single" bar bike. The bike are totally beautiful, with conserved paintings and features but, with the lower bar cutted off. I ask: what the value of my bike now, it lose many of it´s original value, an alteration like cut the lower tube of the frame could make the bike haves an "zero dollar" value? The cut was well executed, lefting only a few indicatives that on the place was an frame tube. And now???


   RE:MISC:   WHAT IS THE VALUE OF AN ALTERATION? posted by Warren on 7/10/2001 at 7:42:44 PM
English roadsters are "valuable" in a purely monetary way only when they are quite old, very rare or in exception condition. Your bike doesn't really meet these criteria.

However they are great bikes to ride and can be the start of a great collection. Keep looking.

   RE:RE:MISC:   WHAT IS THE VALUE OF AN ALTERATION? posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/11/2001 at 12:34:37 PM
This reminds me of the Mr. Bean movie "Bean" where he maims Whistlers Mother and then brings the real one home with him to put on his wall. Rowan Atkinson is very funny!
It is a shame he did this, I am no framebuilder, so I'm not sure but perhaps it could be repaired. Is it worth it to do this? I dunno. I do not hear of or see too many double top tube Rudge bikes often. I would remove the saveable parts like wheels,the badge, chaincase parts and put them on another bike. Ask the framebuilders near you for their thoughts.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   WHAT IS THE VALUE OF AN ALTERATION? posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/11/2001 at 12:37:42 PM
These double top tube frames are out there, don't sweat it. Find another frame and enjoy it.






AGE / VALUE:   WHAT THE APPROXIMATED VALUE OF MY BIKE? posted by: Mario Romano on 7/10/2001 at 5:03:45 PM
I have an Rudge Tourist bike I gained from my brother. I take the bike in very bad shape, but with no weldings. The bike came with no mudguards or installed brakes, but my brother give me all the brake parts I need for to put the front bike and partially the rear brake. I took over an restauration work, I repainted it black (was painted with violet color (argh!)), put on it two Goricke mudguards (not the original, but too vintage part) and changed the front 28" tire by an 26" 1 1/2 balloon tire (the bike have only the front wheel 28", the rear already was an 26" with reinforced parts). I painted the mudguards with and repolished all the bike´s chromes. Now the bike is black and with white mudguards, original "human hand" teethed disk, original Humber handlebar and brake system and 26" tires front and rear, his serial number begins with AK and have an 44/22 gear ratio. What I could ask in an eventual selling?


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   WHAT THE APPROXIMATED VALUE OF MY BIKE? posted by Warren on 7/10/2001 at 7:47:11 PM
How did you get brakes to work when you changed wheel sizes? Drum brakes...coaster brakes? See the above posting about the value of these bikes.






AGE / VALUE:   WHAT THE VALUE OF WELDED HUMBERS??? posted by: Mario Romano on 7/10/2001 at 4:50:28 PM
I been seeking some Humbers and Philips bikes on ym city and I found three bikes, two with many original features and functional rod brakes (a Philips double bar and an Humber single bar with fork lock) and one I found in the city scrapyard, without mudguards, brakes, or fork and handlebar. Ok, this appears like an treasure excavated by me, but have a problem ALL THREE BIKES HAVE WELDINGS ON FRAME AND FORK. The Humber with fork lock you couldn´t ride it without the hands because the non-aligment of the frame, the Philips are stopped on a bike shop since four months ago and the Philips of the scrapyard, well, this are scrap peoples think. I want the help of the friends, what the value of an Humber with rod-brake and fork lock and of an Philips double bar with rod-brakes with welding? What the value of an generally bike welded by brokes on it´s frame or fork. It´s a good idea I buy the bikes, or is best I seek a little more?


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   WHAT THE VALUE OF WELDED HUMBERS??? posted by Warren on 7/10/2001 at 7:54:16 PM
I see the Brazil connection with English roadsters has appeared. If you want to continue restoring english bikes and you can buy these bikes cheap then do so. If the frames are welded they are likely damaged to the point where they are not straight and therefore have little value. The parts on the bikes have lots of value if you continue to search out and find other bikes like it. This is the game we play. Are there lots of english bikes in Brazil?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   WHAT THE VALUE OF WELDED HUMBERS??? posted by sam on 7/11/2001 at 3:28:06 PM
Please check the headbadge close to see if these bikes were made in England.I know some Phillips were made in Mexico.The badge should say where they were made---sam

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   WHAT THE VALUE OF WELDED HUMBERS??? posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/11/2001 at 4:38:52 PM
That biflex or double tube fork can be fitted to any Raleigh Rudge or Humber frame and with the right decals you have a Humber Roadster.I am referring to the 28 inch wheel rod brake model's frame. I would save these forks if you are finding them. You can have a steer tube replaced on these forks and they are neat. "They went Ga- Ga over that fork" If something is welded then save the parts that are good. The Humber models are not being made anymore.






FOR SALE:   Raleigh 26" Ladies Sports posted by: JD on 7/10/2001 at 10:30:16 AM
Raleigh 26" ladies sports bike parts. Included are frame, fork, front/rear fenders, rear wheel and hub (71) front wheel with dynohub. Frame parts disassembled. Condition of both paint and chrome is OK with surface rust. Any offer considered.







FOR SALE:   Raleigh 26" Ladies Sports posted by: JD on 7/10/2001 at 10:30:16 AM
Raleigh 26" ladies sports bike parts. Included are frame, fork, front/rear fenders, rear wheel and hub (71) front wheel with dynohub. Frame parts disassembled. Condition of both paint and chrome is OK with surface rust. Any offer considered.







FOR SALE:   Parting out men's DL-1 Tourist posted by: John on 7/10/2001 at 8:19:09 AM
Good short frame, wheels are rusty, pedals, handle bars, brake parts, stock chainguard, etc. Bad seat, no mudguards. Please email me with your needs. Reasonable prices.







AGE / VALUE:   Gazelle made by Raleigh posted by: Than Cramer on 7/8/2001 at 7:45:50 AM
I have a Gazelle made by Raleigh that I got for free at a garage sale. The serial number is AE94333. I could not match that number with anything on the Raleigh serial number chart. I was wondering if anyone could date it.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Gazelle made by Raleigh posted by Jon on 7/8/2001 at 9:02:12 PM
Raleigh sold the Gazelle Brand in the U.S. when bike sales jumped in the early seventies.(that old problem of supply and demand, when the Raleigh factories couldn't crank 'em out fast enough) I would have to say that was around 1973-74.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Gazelle made by Raleigh posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/9/2001 at 10:19:32 AM
The Raleigh made Gazelle brand was getting confused with the Dutch company with the same name. Raleigh changed the name to Robin Hood and one cool decal and badge was changed into another. I have a Gazelle 3 speed with the R and the I (Raleigh Industries) crank. This is a basic 26 inch wheel, black 3 speed. Mine has a 1954 alloy hub but I'm not sure if it is that old. Raleigh later bought up Gazelle in Holland and owned it for some time until Derby just sold it like two weeks ago to allieviate debt. The Dutch made Gazelle bikes are wonderful.
A tour of the section of the Nottingham factory where the transfers and metal badges were drawn up and produced would be my first stop.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Gazelle made by Raleigh posted by JohnM on 7/12/2001 at 1:41:57 PM
I bought a 1976 Gazelle on ebay a while back. Except for the SA hub, it was mostly continental parts. Some interesting features: track style drop-outs (opening straight back) with motorcycle-type chain tension adjusters. Bolt-on seat stays. Full soft-side chaincase and clip-on spoke guards. Taillight on the mudguard, plus a truck-sized reflector integrated with the luggage carrier. Large mud-flap on the front mud guard. The only thing I didn't like, there are no eyelets for the front mudguard and you have to hold them on with the axel nuts. But this was a "Populaire" model, which I presume was near the bottom of their line. I cleaned it up and gave it to my dad for father's day.






AGE / VALUE:   Paint in your threads (and other painful complaints) posted by: Matthew on 7/8/2001 at 6:45:50 AM
Hello Chaps, I haven't visited the d.b. for ages, not since a spate of limey bashing but that is all history. Regarding painting and the problem of painted threads. Sheldon's scheme sounds great and I would go with that one but, I use vaseline (petroleum jelly, you probably have another brand name for it) or good old fashioned grease. Clean the threads well and apply a good coat, not bucketfuls, of grease. The paint will get sprayed on over the grease and once the top coat is dry it will wipe off the threads. I used to work for a German farm machinery company that painted everything by hot dipping. The whole machine fully assembled gets dumped in a vat of very hot paint which goes on thick and sets like cement, however threads were protected by grease and it works! Head badges can also be masked this way too. I have successfully painted 1930's Hercules, Norwich Rival and a 1950 Raleigh using this method. One caution would be that I can't tell you how vaseline would react with cellulose paint as I won't use the yukky stuff (cellulose that is). Keep up the good work I love to read your excitement when you too save another landfill wouldabeen.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Paint in your threads (and other painful complaints) posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/8/2001 at 10:27:00 AM
There is not excuse for painting over bare unprotected threads. Interesting posting, thanks.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Paint in your threads (and other painful complaints) posted by Albert on 7/11/2001 at 1:27:50 PM
What Limey bashing?






AGE / VALUE:   Sturmey Archer front drum hubs posted by: Zach on 7/7/2001 at 5:05:03 PM
Hi All,
I am looking for 4 front Sturmey Archer Drum hubs if anyone has any for sale for the early period. I have three bikes that are european and require the hubs for these as they never had front brakes at all. Any shape is acceptable.

Thanks,

Zach


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Sturmey Archer front drum hubs posted by Matthew on 7/8/2001 at 7:01:34 AM
Modern maybe, older ones, maybe-never. The British Post Office use Sturmey Drum brakes on their 1989 onward delivery cycles, try to find a source from them?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Sturmey Archer front drum hubs posted by Rudgematch on 7/9/2001 at 5:28:17 AM
Ask Dan at Organic Engines if he can source these brakes.
He has a supplier for SA brakes for the recumbents he builds. See www.organicengines.com for e-mail and other contact info.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Sturmey Archer front drum hubs posted by Art on 7/9/2001 at 9:51:24 AM
These show up on e-bay at time, sometimes as NOS, but more often as components on junker bikes. Seems that the going rate for the hubs, as a set, is around $100-125 good luck.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Sturmey Archer front drum hubs posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/9/2001 at 10:21:46 AM
These are lurking out there along with everything else and I wouldn't think they're that difficult to find.






AGE / VALUE:   28x1"1/4" tires? posted by: sam on 7/6/2001 at 4:13:21 PM
Warrens repley a few post down on the 30s phillips tires got me to thinking,mark Smith had a post on an India roadester he was given.In his post he talks about it having 28'x1&1/4' tires.I know from the indian web pages these bikes are copys of 30 phillips & hercules bikes.Maybe this odd size tire is being made.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   28x1 posted by Jorge Üllfig on 7/6/2001 at 7:16:22 PM
How about 28" x 1 1/2 (35-635) Michelin World Tour Tyre
available at St. John St. Cycles at
http://www.sjcycles.com/store/cat204.htm

What's pinkertn tyre e-mail address again??

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   28x1 posted by Jorge Üllfig on 7/6/2001 at 7:41:07 PM
Or how about Made in Germany Semperit Supert Elite 28 x 1/2"
available at Nick Nichols: http://leys.com/basic

Michelins & Semperits were common replacements on
70's Raleigh DL-1 Roadsters

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   28x1 posted by Jorge Üllfig on 7/6/2001 at 7:41:57 PM
Or how about Made in Germany Semperit Supert Elite 28 x 1/2"
available at Nick Nichols: http://leys.com/basic

Michelins & Semperits were common replacements on
70's Raleigh DL-1 Roadsters

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   28x1 posted by Jorge Üllfig on 7/6/2001 at 7:49:31 PM
Correction: 28 x 1 1/2".

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   28x1 posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/7/2001 at 12:52:59 PM
Scroll down a bit, it is the general address for the web site. E-mail the fellow about your tire needs.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: 28x1 posted by Warren on 7/10/2001 at 7:53:07 AM
These tires have a 622 or 635 bead diameter. The 28 x 1 1/4 have a 646 bead size. A different animal.






AGE / VALUE:   dumping some roadsters posted by: Gary M on 7/6/2001 at 7:14:49 AM
59 Warrior, 57 Flying jet, an Austrian Sears, a couple Raleighs, 71 Sportmaster, western flyer ladies, All SA hubs i beleive, but for sure all going to the dump monday. Anyone wanting parts off these better jump. sucks, but lost a big room, have to dump the slow movers, and that would be the 3 speeds, and 10 speeds.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   dumping some roadsters posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/6/2001 at 8:50:35 AM
Isn't there some place you could stash them until you can find somebody who wants them? Chain them to a bike rack, a pals place, somewhere?
Sorry to hear about the loss of the room. Are you too busy to put these on e- bay? Not the landfil! Nooo

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   dumping some roadsters posted by Tom on 7/6/2001 at 10:49:21 AM
how about a sign in the yard....FREE BIKES!! Someone will save them from the dump!!!!!!!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   dumping some roadsters posted by bob johnson on 7/6/2001 at 7:27:12 PM
where do you live? do you live near seattle, wa?
I'd be interested in them...


   Central Michigan posted by Gary M on 7/6/2001 at 7:40:43 PM
I dont have the ability to do these things any justice, and they are hardly worth shipping. i lost a large room from this warehouse, and the bottom feeders lose. i will grab the badges, and the hubs, and a few other things, the rest i guess is toast.

   I lost enough money on Ebay posted by Gary M on 7/6/2001 at 7:43:39 PM
i put some of my best bikes there once and got squat for them. Now i will just keep my stuff.