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Archived: English Roadsters







AGE / VALUE:   1954 Raleigh Sports posted by: Scott Smith on 7/17/2001 at 11:45:49 PM
I just bought a 1954 Raleigh Sports in what looks to be untouchd original shape. Dunlop Sports tires and fabric lined cable housings, Heron clip and full chaincase. All intact. Even the B66 is perfect. The handlebar grips are a little crumbly and I wonder where a replacement might be found. Also, I need the rear reflector if someone knows of a source. And an original pump would be a nice find as well. Thanks in advance for any and all help. I tackle overhauling the bearings this week. What should I do with the SA hub? What service should it undergo before I ride the bicycle?



   RE:AGE / VALUE:   1954 Raleigh Sports posted by Ed on 7/18/2001 at 8:35:52 AM
Congratulations on your 54 Sports. Sounds like a great bike. If everything is tight and true Idon't know of anything that needs to be done before riding, however you may want to put a few drops of oil in the hubs and bottom bracket,I assume that there is an oil port in the BB since my 58 has one. Regarding grips and rear reflector you should contact The North Road Bicycle Co. in Raleigh, NC. E-Mail: cyclestore@aol.com. They advertise lots of nos Raleigh parts for sale. They may also be a good source for your pump. Good luck with your bike,Ed.






MISC:   HOW TO RECOGNIZE AN TRUE HUMBER 28" RIM... posted by: Fake Humber Don´t Will Gain Candycanes on 7/17/2001 at 3:57:13 PM
Yo!!! This is a real hot info about Humbers you will futurely purchase. Look at the rims, the true Humber rims have 32 spokes (on 28" wheel). If you purchase an Humber with more or less than 32 spokes, you´ve purchased an Humber with fake rims, with modern rims, or with non-original rims. If you purchase an Humber with aluminum rims, no, you will be a real foolish jerk! You already seen Humbers pre-war (46-52) with aluminum rims???


   RE:MISC:Wheel rims on Humber bicycle posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/18/2001 at 8:27:52 AM
The rims that came with the 28 inch wheel Humber cycles are stamped Dunlop, later rims were stamped Raleigh and Sturmey- Archer. they are steel, Westwood pattern 28 X 1 1/2 or 28 X 1 3/8. 32 in front and a 40 spoke hole drilling in the rear. An alloy rim would not have been offered for this type cycle with this size/ type of rim. This was a solid workhorse bike, hence a steel rim.
Now a 26 inch Raleigh Sports machine or a Club machine would have alloy 26 X 1 1/4 Dunlop rims, G.B. Hidiminum brakes, alloy seatpost, a alloy shelled Sturmey Archer hub. I have two Raleigh Reg Harris Lenton Sports in 531 tubing, these are club machines but on of these badged up as a Humber I have not seen yet. The only Humber with any alloy parts would have been the 27 inch wheel racing model. There were diffrent size frame Humbers offered 22, 24, 26 and likely 28 inch frames. (Phillips had a "Royal Imperial" and this was a 28 inch frame with 28 inch wheels.) some with a built in fork lock, some without.The 28inch and 26 inch wheel Humber bikes were called "Cobb Tourist" I have owned a Urania brand bicycle and this had the 26 inch Raleigh pattern or Westrick style rim only this was a 28 inch wheel instead and it was in alloy! The particular bike had rod- operated Sturmey Archer drum brake hubs in these rims. This was fluke, as most all of them had the steel 28 inch rims. Many were single speed models too. As time passed, a owner would have switched wheels because the rod brake pads over time and many miles would have worn down the plating and the steel rim would have grooves in it. So eventually, the rim would have to be replaced. You would really have to log some serrious miles on it before this happens.
Please e- mail me with your tales of chasing Humber bikes in your area of the planet. Raleigh bought up Humber in 1932 but these were imported into your country before that and Raleigh kept on shipping these all over the world for some time too.Sounds like you have a better chance of finding Humber cycles than most of us.






MISC:   FREE!!! Roadsters on Long Island posted by: Howard on 7/17/2001 at 3:53:48 PM
Free. Free..... ON LONG ISLAND
I am moving on Wednesday and have to get rid of one mens and one womans Raleigh Roadster Tourists 28". The womans frame is brand new. Both bikes are disassembled but I have all the parts plus loads of extra parts.
I also have a Raleigh 20 non floder that I will throw in.
I can be reached at 516 456-8186.
BIKES MUST BE PICKED UP BY THURSDAY EVENING....


   RE:MISC:   FREE!!! Roadsters on Long Island posted by Howard on 7/18/2001 at 8:05:50 PM
Sorry bicycles are gone.
Thanks,
Howard






AGE / VALUE:   Hercules questions posted by: dave on 7/17/2001 at 1:08:17 PM
I picked up a mens Hercules recently. Kind of an ugly reddish brown, Hercules SW hub with 58 11 stamped on it (I assume this means Nov 1958), the Hercumatic trigger shifter and the chainring has the "H" in it instead of the word "Hercules" ....
anyone know when they switched from "Hercules" to "H" in the chainring, and any info on different types of rear hubs Hercules manufactured?


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Hercules questions posted by Brian Hayes on 7/18/2001 at 6:13:19 AM
The SW is a Sturmey Archer hub even thought it's stamped Hercules. I have one like this (dated 57, I believe), and there is no difference internally. BTW, if you have problems with the SW, I have a page that may help: my.ohio.voyager.net/'bdhayes/sa/sw.htm (change the ' to a tilde character).

Brian

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Hercules questions posted by dave on 7/18/2001 at 6:32:48 AM
Thanks ... I wondered if that might be the case. So my question remains, what identifies a "real" Hercules hub? I have one Hercules A 9 that came on a Hercules rod-brake bike and I know there was a "B" series ... anyone else have info on this?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Hercules questions posted by Dale Oswald on 7/19/2001 at 9:20:13 AM
Can't help w/questions, but thanks for the memories. My first geared bike was that color Herc, about that vintage. Had trouble keeping crank pins in it, not understanding that all I had to do was replace the chewed-up axil, I dumped it. [DOH!] I guess dumber decisions have been made by twelve year olds.






MISC:   Caliper sidepulls on wide rims, advice please posted by: Robert on 7/16/2001 at 1:55:52 PM
Sorry this is not roadster related but you all have been helpful in the past ,so here goes.
Built my own version of a “Repack” bike. Used a ’57 Columbia frame MW frame. Added alloy rims, triple chain ring, ,ect. ect..... My question concerns the brakes. I added some alloy sidepull caliper brakes front and rear.
No brand name on the calipers. The levers are like those used on the older upright bar Schwinn bikes. New cables, new pads. I have adjusted them as described in every manual I’ve seen.

Now the problem. The brakes work very poorly. They will slow the bike ,stopping it eventually.
You can “just barely ,sometimes” lock the rear wheel in the dirt. Front never near lock up and barely stopping. I'm not expecting v-brake performance, but htis is ridiculous.
Have cleaned rims and degreased, scuffed the new pads and cleaned. Still no go. ( Or should i say stop!)

The levers do not bottom out on the bars when squeezed hard. But there seems to be a lot of play /flex somewhere.

Once again, I'm sorry it's off of the roadster heading.


   RE:MISC:   Caliper sidepulls on wide rims, advice please posted by Warren on 7/16/2001 at 6:53:07 PM
It sounds like the brakes are not reaching a point where the travel optimizes the stopping power. You've got alloy rims, new pads and extra space at the lever so I think the brakes have to go. Get thee to a good BMX store and buy something good. Or go with one of the Shimano internal drum brakes on the front. Not very true to the vision.

Repack eh? You mean like the Fisher/Breezer/Ritchie guys? From the pictures I've seen of these mountain bike pioneers, they had crappy brakes as well. They always had their feet dragging in the dirt! I guess sometimes it doesn't pay to be too original when building a vintage bike.

   RE:MISC:   Caliper sidepulls on wide rims, advice please posted by sam on 7/16/2001 at 7:06:08 PM
Robert , one thing is for sure,your putting a lot more force on the calipers than they would have if they were for a L/W tire.First check stopping distance(not brake lock)if your bike stopped in less distance than a L/W bike that would lock the wheel your better off.If I read your post right that's not the case.did your calipers come off a mountian bike?Do they fit the wheel.Are they flexing because of a larger size tire?How about some of the people who ride the Raleigh 20s ,do they have these problems?And you do have a set of steel Calipers over here at my house!!

   RE:RE:MISC:   Caliper sidepulls on wide rims, advice please posted by Robert on 7/16/2001 at 8:02:44 PM
Calipers are from a "road pick" mountain bike that I found on the highway side. They are for the wider rims. My 3 speeds will stop in 1/2 the distance. My daughters cheap-o mountain bike with steel calipers and funky levers will lift the back wheel with the front brake. And this is on steel rims!! I guess that I will swap out to some steel calipers I have. I was just hoping I had overlooked something with my setup.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Caliper sidepulls on wide rims, advice please posted by Wings on 7/16/2001 at 9:49:47 PM
I have done the same thing with Schwinn Cruisers. The large caliper that is usually purchased for fat tires is worthless. No name on the brakes usually indicates they are worthless. I suggest the following:
1. On the rear wheel it may be better to position the brake under the stays (the way you never see it!) if it allows you to get the pads in closer on the brake arms. The closer in the pads are the more leverage you have and better brakes! On one Cruiser I used and old Pit Bull brake and cut a piece of aluminum angle stock to position and fastened the brake to the aluminum. I made a brake bridge that gave me the best angle and closest fit for the caliper so I could get the best leverage. Brake bridges may be purchased at BMX stores or you can make your own. I have only had to do this a couple of times.
2. Usually just going to a BMX bike shop or looking in a BMX bike magazine and finding "Dan's" adds for parts you can get a better brake. My favorite -- the most braking for the buck -- is Bulldog brakes! My Schwinn cruisers stop good with them and I use no brake briges. You would need a front and a rear Bulldog!
3. What kind of brake levers are you using? That could make a difference also!
4. Go to a softer pad. I like the YPK yellows or go to a warm Koolstop pad! I had trouble with a front brake on a recumbent and I used the new Koolstop Mountain Bike pad. It is gray and maroon and curves to fit the rim and is longer than any pad I have seen. The longer the pad, the more surface area to contact!
5. You can do it! It may take a little patience and some trial and error.
Good luck

   RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Caliper sidepulls on wide rims, advice please posted by Wings on 7/16/2001 at 9:55:27 PM
Were you comparing your daughter on her bike when she stops or you on her bike. She possibly weighs less (?) and should stop faster! Weight is also a factor! If you don't like to tinker -- go on a diet! :)

   RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Caliper sidepulls on wide rims, advice please posted by Robert on 7/17/2001 at 5:40:27 AM
I will give the Bulldog brakes and softer pads a try.
Sounds like a better way to go.
Thanks for everyones input. Kind of agrivating ?? when bike goes real good but doesn't stop worth a flip!


   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Caliper sidepulls on wide rims, advice please posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/19/2001 at 8:34:28 AM
I would have pulled them off and been running around the shop looking for something else. You did the right thing asking here though. I mean to get others thoughts is good.

   Caliper sidepulls on wide rims, CORRECTED!! posted by Robert on 7/20/2001 at 5:51:28 AM
Went digging thru my stuff last night. Found a clean set of chrome steel mountain bike calipers. Put on the front one.
Bike now stops. It appears that the no name alloy calipers that I had installed were flexing. These are very solid when you clamp down. Previous had a mushy feeling. Will keep my eye open for some Bulldog calipers and run these for now.






WANTED:   Bottom Bracket/Spindle for women's Robin Hood posted by: David P. Goncalves on 7/16/2001 at 1:03:55 PM
Hello,

The spindle (or axle) within the bottom bracket is bent. I would like to find a replacement for it. Anybody know where I could get this part? Perhaps you have one?

It is installed in a 1960s women's Robin Hood bicycle.


   RE:WANTED:   Bottom Bracket/Spindle for women's Robin Hood posted by Peter on 7/16/2001 at 3:15:49 PM
I have a box of about 60 cottered BB axles, mostly NOS. Postage from England may make it expensive, but if you don't have any more local replies email me with some more information such as any identifying numbers and the overall and centre portion lengths.

   RE:WANTED:   Bottom Bracket/Spindle for women's Robin Hood posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/16/2001 at 4:07:16 PM
These spindles have stampings on them that say something. We need to know what is stamped on yours.
Makers of spindles were: Raleigh, Brampton Fittings or Brampton. Bayless- Wiley, T.D.C. Phillips and some others I forget.
Cyclart in Vista, Ca has a page of parts for sale, visit their web page after you have the information handy.

   RE:RE:WANTED:   Bottom Bracket/Spindle for women's Robin Hood posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/16/2001 at 4:41:22 PM
phone # is 800-529-2527 or 760-727-6972
The web page is great, but it doesn't appear to let you wander thru the parts they have for sale section. Not at the moment anyway. They do publish a great print catalog, but ones needs to be on the mailing list.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Rims posted by: Clive Appleyard on 7/16/2001 at 9:02:03 AM
I am soon receiving an "unknown" roadster with 28" wheels and rod brakes. Does anyone know of a place where I could obtain replacement rims?

If this is nigh on impossible - can you convert to 700C rims but still retaining the rod brakes?

PS. I am based in the UK.
Thanks,


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Rims posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/16/2001 at 9:29:06 AM
Converting this to 700 C modern rims while still retaining the rod brakes set up? The answer is no, you cannot. But we wish you could. 28 X 1 1/2 Tires/ tubes are available from Sheldon Brown, scroll down for his e- mail address. Sheldon Brown has a page covering this bike and we have exploded diagrams here at Old Roads.com under Raleigh, Rudge, Humber exploded diagrams. Rims require a bit more looking.Where can he find a set of rims? Stay Tuned.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Rims posted by sam on 7/16/2001 at 7:14:41 PM
Do they sell those rims in Holland??

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Rims posted by sam on 7/16/2001 at 7:15:33 PM
Do they sell those rims in Holland??

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Rims posted by Jorge Üllfig on 7/17/2001 at 6:33:05 AM
For new chromed 32 or 40 hole Dutch made Westwood rims try:

Baker Bikes
Southmill Trading Centre
Southmill Road
Bishops Stortford
Hertfordshire CM23 3DY
England.

Local phone: 01279 758718 / Fax: 658991

Good Luck






AGE / VALUE:   S3C Coaster Brake Hub posted by: Leon L. on 7/16/2001 at 6:14:45 AM
Need help in repairing a 77 S3C hub. Two pawl springs are broken (part#HSA469). These are the 2 pawls nearest the cog. Is it possible to do this repair myself and where would I get parts and instructions? Or better yet, is there someplace I could send the parts involved for repair? I know this is not the most reliable hub in the world but I hate to give up on this bit of history. It belongs to an otherwise really nice bike. All help appreciated!







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Looking for Sturmey Archer AW Indicator Chain posted by: David P. Goncalves on 7/16/2001 at 6:04:18 AM
I have been looking for a replacement indicator chain HSA125 (the shorter chain), and have only been able to find the longer HSA126. Anybody know where I could pick up a couple of the shorter indicator chain?

Looking at the technical drawings on the Sturmey Archer website, it seems that the length of the indicator chain varies with the length of the axle.

Longer Axle = Longer Chain.

If it is not possible to find the shorter HSA125, can I replace some of the other parts in the hub (such as the axle) so that I may use my supply of the longer indicator chain?

Anybody know why the axle come in two lenghts?


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Looking for Sturmey Archer AW Indicator Chain posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/16/2001 at 9:39:00 AM
http://OldRoads.com/nos.hub.asp
They sell a genuine Sturmey Archer indicator chain here.
It is: SA AW 36 N.O.S. indicator chain #36 on diagram
I don't know if this is the short or the long chain.
These came in two diffrent sizes because of the two diffrent size axles.
Are you local shops telling you they don't have it?
Sheldon Brown has a whole page with all the Sturmey Archer parts listed including a 24 tooth cog.
http://Sheldonbrown.com/harris

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Looking for Sturmey Archer AW Indicator Chain posted by David P. Goncalves on 7/16/2001 at 12:38:22 PM
I have purchased a few of the chains sold by VVVintage, they are of the longer type. The same goes for a few of the lots I have purchased on eBay.

Also, I stopped by Harris Cyclery, and was told that they have run out of the shorter indicator chain.

If somebody knows if I can swap axles (long for short) in an AW unit, or knows a source of the shorter indicator chain, please do e-mail or post.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Looking for Sturmey Archer AW Indicator Chain posted by Albert on 7/18/2001 at 1:31:44 PM
Even though SA had different length indicater rod/chains, they are to a degree interchangable. Just set what ever chain you are using to a "no slack and fully withdrawn postion" while the shift quadrant is position 3.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Looking for Sturmey Archer AW Indicator Chain posted by Albert on 7/18/2001 at 1:44:58 PM
Even though SA had different length indicater rod/chains, they are to a degree interchangable. Just set what ever chain you are using to a "no slack and fully withdrawn postion" while the shift quadrant is position 3.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Looking for Sturmey Archer AW Indicator Chain posted by Robert on 7/18/2001 at 9:33:45 PM
I don't know if this will be useful but I have two Schwinns with AW hubs. One has an indicator chain rod that is longer than the other. The longer rod has a bevel machined about 1/4" from the chain and that is the adjustment mark as opposed to the end of the rod on the other. Both are original to the bikes.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Looking for Sturmey Archer AW Indicator Chain posted by David P. Goncalves on 7/19/2001 at 2:25:46 PM
That is exactly what I have been seeing!

Unfortunately, they are not very interchangeable...getting the longer shafted indicator chain into 1st gear is near impossible - the chain sections are pulled out all the way, and the cable has nothing left but to try and bend the top of the shaft.

But, good news! Several posters to this list have been kind enough to send me a couple of these shorter indicator chains, so now I can begin rebuinding the rear wheel with the SA hub.

I am going to see if replacing the axle works out, just in case.


Thanks for the help.






AGE / VALUE:   Huffy Sportsman posted by: Michael J on 7/15/2001 at 4:09:45 PM
I have a Huffy Sportsman, ladies, green. It is in need of some minor clean-up and seems to operate properly. Rescued recently and worthy of an appreciative rider. Please contact if interested in providing a solid boys bicycle in return. I'm in central NJ. Thanks


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Huffy Sportsman posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/16/2001 at 8:58:27 AM
This has the twist grip shifter and a Shimano Lark derailer right? This bike is shown and briefly mentioned in Berto's book "Dancing Chain"

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Huffy Sportsman posted by sam on 7/16/2001 at 2:48:39 PM
Or could it be the raleigh built Huffman sportsman model?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Huffy Sportsman posted by Michael J on 7/16/2001 at 3:23:28 PM
It has a twist 3 speed shifter on the right handlebar. Markings on the grip say 333. No markings on the derailer, but it's built into the rear axle/hub.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   For sale: NOS 3-speed Sturmey-Archer shift cables posted by: Kevin C on 7/15/2001 at 7:01:23 AM
For sale: new old stock Sturmey-Archer shift cables for three-speed bicycles. These are the real thing, not the "one-size-fits-all" type found in today's bike shops. $6 each, postage paid.







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Aberdale Girl's Spitfire posted by: Mary Hoagland on 7/15/2001 at 6:40:36 AM
I am trying to research and locate parts for a bicycle that was given to
me when I was 8 years old. I am now 55, and would like to recondition
it as a vintage bike. The manufacturer was the Aberdale Cycle Co.,
England. Since it was purchased in the US, it might be a 1953 or 1954 model. I have
not found model identification on it, and I don't know where to look other than the
obvious labels.

My bicycle is a 26" girl's 3-speed, Spitfire. It has front and rear hand brakes, but no
coaster brake on the rear wheel. Originally it came with a bicycle pump
mounted on the frame, and a saddlebag with wrench on the rear. I could take a
picture of it to show you if that would help, but there are a few modern
replacement parts on it at present that might be misleading.

The 1 3/8" EA-3 wheel rims are chrome plated steel, and the rear one has
40 spokes. I have not been able to find a replacement for that rim which is
slightly bent on the area where the brake pads ride. If I can find a
good rim, I can have my hub relaced. I also need information about the
original wheel that was on the front. That wheel had been damaged and
was replaced with a new one. The old part was discarded before I could
study it. I could use an original shifter and cable stop for that cable, too.

Can anybody help, or steer me to someone who could? Thanks.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Aberdale Girl's Spitfire posted by Warren on 7/15/2001 at 3:42:22 PM
If the bend on the rear rim is a gradual wobble it can be straightened. The front wheel would have had 32 holes. Is the rear rim fairly square in section? If it is, it is an Endrick rim. If it has a raised bump in the middle of the rim where the spokes meet...it is a Westrick. If the rear hub is a Sturmey Archer, there is a date code that can tell you the month and year of manufacture of the hub. Look for the numbers on the hub surface near the oiler hole. Do the cables attach to the brakes with a bolt or is there a lead ball or cable end that engages the brakes. Finally, what is your list of parts you would like to acquire. You can probably get just about everything from someone on the list. A set of close-up pictures of all of the major component areas would go a long way if you have more questions.

Where do you live? There may be a decent shop we can direct you to in your neck of the woods?

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Aberdale Girl's Spitfire posted by sam on 7/15/2001 at 7:56:26 PM
And this site has a good list of English parts

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Aberdale Girl's Spitfire posted by Warren on 7/16/2001 at 12:50:38 PM
Oops..thanks Sam. I forget that often. (they don't ship to Canada)






MISC:   Where could I sell this bike posted by: Neil Thursby on 7/14/2001 at 12:30:24 PM
I need to dispose of a Rudge Whitworth Crescent, pre-war model. Rod brakes. Could anyone advise who might be interested in such a bike. It's a shame just to put it out with the rubbish! Thanks in advance,

Neil.


   RE:MISC:   Where could I sell this bike posted by sam on 7/15/2001 at 7:58:53 PM
Well just about everybody I can think of!

   RE:MISC:   Where could I sell this bike posted by Neil Thursby on 7/16/2001 at 11:18:53 AM
Sam,
Thanks for that. Any chance you could be a little more specific?

Neil.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Where could I sell this bike posted by Warren on 7/16/2001 at 12:58:57 PM
Many people on this list would love it . Shipping it from Britain will put it out of range unless you're esentially giving it away. If it was in great condition you might get a few bucks more on e-bay. If you could price out shipping charges from Britain it might encourage someone to make an offer.

   RE:MISC:   Where could I sell this bike posted by sam on 7/16/2001 at 1:36:57 PM
Neil,I think Warren said it all.We on this side of the pond would sure love to have it.On ebay in the U.S. it should start around $200 in good shape--but the shipping cost added would place it out of range,and then there is the boxing.I get free boxes from the local bike shop which saves others a lot on cost.I do encorage you to go the extra before you set it out with the rubbish.It's lasted this long I'm sure someone will give it a new home---sam

   RE:RE:MISC:   Where could I sell this bike posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/16/2001 at 4:53:25 PM
That woefu,l howling noise you hear is me, screaming at the reality of the situation.
The owner is in England or Europe and what is stoping us all here is the shipping costs that drive up prices until nobody will bother with it from overseas.
It would be good if the C.T.C. (Cyclists Touring Club) or the Vetrans Cycle Club had a web page where you could post it for sale there for free. They have print publications where folks put things up for sale, but you would have to pay for that.
Trust me we don't want it to go to waste either.
It is mind blowing the wonderful things that go to waste because nobody will pay for it where it is located.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Where could I sell this bike posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/16/2001 at 4:54:47 PM
Offer it on e- bay,show some pictures there.

   RE:MISC:   Where could I sell this bike posted by Neil Thursby on 7/17/2001 at 12:46:50 AM
Many thanks to all who responded. If I can't find a good UK home for it, I'll look into shipping costs and place another post on Oldroads. Also working on taking some photos. SO, watch this space, I'll be back!






AGE / VALUE:   If only they all came out like this. posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/14/2001 at 10:03:04 AM
I removed the nut and left the washer on in case the cotter pin wanted to bend over. I took my hammer and went WHAM! really hard! I had soaked it with oil the night before. It came flying out after the 4th smack! I sat there astonished, this was the chainwheel crank side too! Furthermore the cotter pin has no damage to the threads and I can re- use it! This never happens. The other one came out easily too, but I damaged the threads on it. No bending, no drilling. Somewhere in like 1958 or thereabouts the cotterpins went from being super hardened to a diffrent grade of metal cotter pins. These bend over, get mashed widely where it won't go thru the hole. The Park Cotter Pin removal tool is a must have in your tool box when overhauling bottom brackets.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   If only they all came out like this. posted by JohnM on 7/14/2001 at 6:28:04 PM
Is that the same as a Cotter Pin Press, and if so, where can you get one? I'd love to have a way of getting these things out without bashing them with a hammer. It would also be nice to be able to reuse the pins on a consistent basis. When it has a jumping gazelle or something on it, you hate to replace it with a plain chunk of steel.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   If only they all came out like this. posted by Rudgematch on 7/16/2001 at 8:04:42 AM
Aha! I always suspected they had hardened cotter pins earlier on, as I often seemed to crush them and/or twist the crankarms except on older 3-speeds. It's annoying! I'm not THAT strong nor that heavy where I should be twisting crankarms from regular use. Again, the older bikes seemed stronger in this regard. Anybody have similar experiences?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   If only they all came out like this. posted by Dale Oswald on 7/16/2001 at 8:37:15 AM
Make this special "tool": a 4x4 block of wood, 11" long, with a 1/2" hole drilled near one edge of one end. Stand the bike on the floor and prop up the crank arm on the 4x4, so that the unthreaded end of the pin rests inside the hole. This will 1) support the crank so your hammering doesn't damage the bearing surfaces and 2) provide a good backing so the hammer force all goes into popping the pin. Get it all set up and use a heavy hammer (20 oz or more) and give it a Really Good Whack, straight on. Using this method, pins will typically pop on the first or second hit.

Some people like to use a large (3/4" or more) punch to hit the pin. Not a bad idea, because it keeps the hammer away from the bottom bracket proper.

If you miss and bend the pin, hit it back and forth until it breaks at the base of the threads. Then, still using the block, use a 1/4" punch to drive it out.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:Park tool for cotter pin removal  posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/16/2001 at 9:03:24 AM
Sheldon Brown has a page on crank cotterpins. http://www.Sheldonbrown.com look under his articles section.
I believe you can order the Park Tool Co.'s cotterpin press from Harris Cycles (Sheldon Brown)

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:Park tool for cotter pin removal  posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/16/2001 at 9:17:43 AM
http://Sheldonbrown.com/harris/tools.html
the page says that if you don't see something listed, to ask them(send them an e- mail) and they can probably get it for you.
A lot of bike shops would not even try to get it for you. Getting a bike shop to look something up and special order something sometimes can be difficult.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   If only they all came out like this. posted by Ben on 7/16/2001 at 9:20:26 AM
Resting the crankarm on a vise open just enough to admit the non-threaded end of the cotter works well too, provided the vise is mounted on bedrock or a reasonable substitute.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   If only they all came out like this. posted by JohnM on 7/17/2001 at 12:16:31 PM
Hmmm. Thank you to all for your input.






MISC:   FANATIC BY BADGES posted by: Stevan Stanescon, The Gypsy on 7/13/2001 at 5:21:01 PM
Ho paws! I fanatic by vintage bicycles badges and I want to begin an collection, but it is too hard for to find, so I decided to appeal for them. I want to buy any-shape badges for my collection, but I live on Brazil and I need to know how I could pay for it. I have two badges very rare on my country: "Bicicleta Torpedo de Cassio Muniz" (Torpedo Bikes from Cassio Muniz factory on Rio de Janeiro) of the early 50´s and "Bicicletas Monark" (Monark bitube bikes from early 60´s). Well, I still looking for some Humber, Rudge, Schwinn, Sears and Huffy badges, so I got´em all if somebody have for to sell. I could pay by it´s rarity, but I only could pay a maximum of US$ 10 by eacho one, exceptionally I could pay a lot of money if yours have a real one for to sell. So, I wait for answers.

Thanks!