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Archived: English Roadsters







AGE / VALUE:   Rod Brake Bike posted by: Tom on 7/21/2001 at 7:57:26 PM
I got an old rod brake bike last week. The headbadge says Victory Special Cycle. I know nothing about this bike. Does anyone know what I have, how old it is. It has been painted over and I cannot find the serial#. The wheels are 24". The front tire is a US Royal Touring, back is IRC Guaranty Roadster. Front hub is 32 hole and has N&S stamped in it. The rear has 40 holes but the hub is not original. Quick release Suntour single speed alloy. The spokes and front hub are brass colored as well as the handle bars and the brake levers.The rod brakes are Raleigh. The seat is a Brooks B5N stamped A78 under it. The seat is new and unused. The bar grips are coke bottle shaped. The bottom bracket has 2 bolts going through the frame to hold something in it. The crank is cottered. I bought the bike for $60US which may be a bit high if it a home made bike. It rides nice.
I may put a SA 3 spd rear hub on it and ride it.







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   I need help!!! posted by: Michelle in Los Angeles, CA on 7/20/2001 at 10:41:05 PM
I just inherited an English bike from my grandfather. I know little about it, except I think he bought it around 1934 and he owned it up until his death, almost a year ago. The badge says CycleWorks, Birmingham on it. I hope someone can help me identify it. I am trying to restore it. He painted over the whole body after he retired, and it saved the bike from rusting. Any insight would be much appriciated. Thank You!


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   I need help!!! posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/21/2001 at 7:35:56 AM
Sheldon Brown has a great page. Have you seen it? http://www.Sheldonbrown.com English bicycles, Raleigh bicycles, old bikes section. Take your time. I have a ladies bike with this name and it is no Raleigh in any form but it is similar. This is Prewar! Cool and from Birmingham too.
What do mean by restore? Tires and tubes, rims, (if you look) hub parts and 3 speed parts, brake pads and cables are out there. To get it back on the road is not too difficult. A full restoration will be costly and time consuming. Origonal decals will be a real problem and yours are lost. There is a way to slowly remove the paint and get a look at them and these can be re-created too. I an not certain how they do this. These are being heaved into the tip,skip, rubbish dump and I would encourage you to look for more old interesting bikes where you live and save them. These are wonderful bikes!
I would get it rideable and enjoy it. I know nothing about this particular company and I am just as currious as you, probably more so. Phillips was a major Birmingham, England maker until it merged with Raleigh in 1960. There were a lot of cycle makers in Birmingham. There were a lot of cycle makers in England. Not all of this is figured out even with the web.
What size wheels? cable or rod brakes? What does the rear hub say on it? There should be a date unless it is a single speed.Is this a double top tube or single top tube model? If he is still with you, then ask him all about it.If he has passed away, I'm sorry for your loss. He would want you to ride it and enjoy it, I'm sure. Feel free to e- mail me off list.






AGE / VALUE:   Delivery bike posted by: sam on 7/20/2001 at 9:19:09 PM
Ebay#1167639874 Not my--no relation--etc This is the bike you would use to bring home that large box of antique parts from the old bike shop!!


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Delivery bike posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/21/2001 at 7:37:36 AM
One of these days I want to get one!






AGE / VALUE:   e- BAY ITEM # 1618618276 posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/20/2001 at 10:14:01 AM
Take a look at e- bay item # 1618618276 Vintage Raleigh Motor bike.
It is from 1908
All that rust makes me cry.I know 1908 is very old, but man oh man! I hope somebody can use parts off it for another project or perhaps bring it back from beyond the grave.Not my auction, no relation to seller.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   e- BAY ITEM # 1618618276 posted by sam on 7/20/2001 at 7:33:44 PM
If you look at the bottom right photo-the chrome pump fits the left side gas tank hole.Did this pump oil or did it prime the motor?Was this motor 2 cycle or 4 cycle?Did it start on gasoline and run on kerosene?When I look at photos like that questions pop in my mind---sam






FOR SALE:   John Bull brake pads posted by: Jim on 7/19/2001 at 7:42:11 PM
I have NOS John Bull brake pads. These are ready to install with the metal bracket and nut, not just the pads. I'll have photos soon. $12 pair shipped. I also have ran accross some vintage British Cherry brake sets,NOS Huret derailer cables, and Huret Deluxe quick release wingnuts as well as some AJAX alloy ones. Still digging through the stuff. NOS Ukai 36 hole 27" Rims, Some various size NOS Rigida rims, and even a few SA and Dunlop rims. Will post the rest soon. Thanks Jim


   RE:FOR SALE:   John Bull brake pads posted by Jim on 7/22/2001 at 12:20:07 PM
Email for photos I have two different styles. I also have Raleigh #4 pads only.

   RE:RE:FOR SALE:   John Bull brake pads posted by Scott on 7/26/2001 at 11:56:20 AM
I'm interested in a pair of John Bull pads for my 1951 Raleigh Sports. Could you give me details.

Scott






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Huffy Sportsman posted by: Alix on 7/19/2001 at 6:51:35 PM
I just picked up a 1964 Huffy Sportsman in need of restoration. It has this locking system in the back wheel that has tabs. I'm not sure how it works. Is there any way of re-setting the combination? This is the first bike project for me, so if anyone knows anything about this particular model, that would be great.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Huffy Sportsman posted by sam on 7/20/2001 at 7:47:36 PM
Alix,the sportsman isn't a bad bike to start on.Don't spend a lot thinking you'll get it back.huffys aren't worth much but the sportsman was a sound rider bike.I think Mike Stone said he has one his kids ride.you might try a post under the balloon and light/weight groups but then you may not get a reply--we all had to start some place--enjoy your bike and tell us how it's comming along.good luck---sam






AGE / VALUE:    posted by: Mark R. on 7/19/2001 at 3:34:38 PM
Hey! I was driving to a shop to pick up some things for work, and out of the corner of my eye I think see a rod brake bicycle in a junk shop. Guess what? Yep, it was a rough but complete, and VERY restorable ladies/step-through rod brake Raleigh (DL-22 ?). The guy says it's $10 so, Bamm! I snagged it! I think it'll clean up easily except, of course, the rims a very rough. Has any one had any success with a shop anywhere who can re-chrome these rims?
Conversely, does anyone want to part with their Indian made wheels???







AGE / VALUE:   1951 Sports posted by: Scott Smith on 7/19/2001 at 3:19:33 PM
How does one remove a full chaincase? I want to disassemble the crank, clean the chain etc. Can't figure it out to save my life. English puzzle box? Thanks.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   1951 Sports posted by Ben on 7/20/2001 at 8:14:14 AM
Carefully remove the two sliding covers (at the crank axle and at the inside rear of the case). Gently pry off the circular cover at the crank end and guide it around the pedal. Remove the rear cover piece behind the drive side of the rear wheel (one bolt at the rear of the case). At this point you do not have to go any further. You can remove the chain and take out the bottom bracket with the chainwheel crank still cottered. Make sure the brackets (or bolts in case of braze on type) holding the rest of the case to the frame are snug, and take care not to impact the case if you take the back wheel off. I can't remember, since my bike with this has been gone for a couple of months...can you take the back wheel off without removing the whole case? Anyone?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   1951 Sports posted by Ben on 7/20/2001 at 8:20:38 AM
Revision to above: on second thought, removing the bottom bracket without removing the crank would be damned near impossible since you can't get at the fixed cup...d'oh! So, after getting the covers off as above, you will have to knock out the cotter. Be very careful not to bend the case!






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   searching for replacement rod brake adjusting bolt posted by: Lenny Dintenfass on 7/19/2001 at 10:23:09 AM
I have a Raleigh Tourist 3-speed bicycle, with 28-inch wheels and rod brakes (purchased new in 1985.Unfortunately, I am unable to use it as I need a replacement rod brake adjusting bolt. The bolt itself is undamaged, but the nut to the bolt has become rounded (as neither English nor metric wrenches would ever fit it correctly). I have tried to match the thread with a replacement nut, but the thread also appears to be neither English nor metric (perhaps Whitworth?). I have e-mailed Raleigh dealers in the UK but so far I have been unable to find replacement parts (I don't care if they are used or not, as long as they are useable).

I would also consider a conversion to caliber brakes, although I'm not sure how practical that would be if I want to keep the 28" rims.

Thanks in advance for suggestions or advice folks might have for me.

Sincerely,

Lenny Dintenfass
Indianapolis, Indiana


   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   searching for replacement rod brake adjusting bolt posted by Jon on 7/24/2001 at 5:41:31 AM
Check out this site:
http://www.sameerexports.com/index.html#top
These guys appear to be still selling new bikes with rod brakes and so still supply components. I've not done business with them and I have no idea how easy it would be to ship the parts form India. Worth a browse anyway.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   searching for replacement rod brake adjusting bolt posted by NO!!! on 7/19/2001 at 3:33:18 PM
Good god man! Don't change the brakes! You will certainly find a replacement, or you certainly can have a machine shop make lots of replacements cheaply. You wouldn't be able to use the caliper brakes on those rims anyway.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Crazy D.L.1. project isn't out of the oven yet. posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/19/2001 at 4:55:19 PM
The handlebars, rims, brake linkage pieces all work together. Upgrading a Raleigh Tourist D.L.1. is possible, but it is involved. Re-building the bike with newer and diffrent 700Crims and tires would not be cheap, and it ruins the romantic look of the bike.Install(lace) the rear 3 speed Sturmey- Archer hub in the new rear rim.Then find a diffrent handlebar and stem, find a front brake long enough after drilling a hole all the way thru the front fork tube, or use a drop bolt and then you cannot use centerpull brakes and another kind of brake.(See SheldonBrown's article on drop bolts,http://www. Sheldonbrown.com articles) Same in the rear too, or use a drum brake setup. Or go with a derailer system and change the chain and crank sprockets to use 3/32 chain. These drop outs are diffrent on a D.L.1. diffrent than those used with derailers. Weld it in place or modify adaptor claw bolts. A machinist can do miricles, knowing one helps. I would braze on studs and make it a cantileaver brake bike. Make sure the front double chainring doesn't rub the raised circular spot where an enclosed chainguard bolts into the frame. The cotterless bottombracket axle would have to fit and be long enough. This is another problem as you need a 5** series bottombracket spindle, or a Phil Wood. Using the Raleigh bottom bracket cups is possible with a 5**series cotterless spindle and you could re-tap the b.b. to use 24t.p.i. but that is more involved. Can you braze this tubing used on the Raleigh Tourist D.L.1.? I don't know. It is 20/30 high carbon or something.
Or find origonal parts and enjoy it.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Crazy D.L.1. project isn't out of the oven yet. posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/19/2001 at 5:00:14 PM
Brake tube eye bolts are shown in the exploded diagrams here.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   searching for replacement rod brake adjusting bolt posted by Ian on 7/20/2001 at 2:37:20 AM
The nut will almost certainly be British Cycle thread - 26 threads per inch. They used the same number of threads regardless of diameter - don't ask me why I'm a New Zealander not English. Dont ruin a good setup it must be possible to get a nut somewhere. If you really are stuck email a size and I will give you some for free but the postage from here is US$6.00 Cheers, Ian

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   searching for replacement rod brake adjusting bolt posted by Ian on 7/20/2001 at 1:31:57 PM
I had a further thought during the night (why do I think about old bike stuff during the night? God only knows) that older British motorcycles used the same thread so if you can find someone who deals in those they should be able to help with a nut. Cheers, Ian.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   searching for replacement rod brake adjusting bolt posted by Paul Aslanides on 7/22/2001 at 6:53:00 AM
One could perhaps try using a standard metric nut, 6 X 1 mm,
if the rod is 1/4", though a 6 X 1 die may have to be run over the thread on the rod, as 6 m.m. is a little smaller in diameter than 1/4".
If the rod is 9/32" one can use a 7 x 1 m.m nut similarly,
as 7 m.m is only .006" smaller that 9/32".
If 3/16" .... I haven't had to battle with this one as yet.
The BSC thread, as mentioned, is 26 tpi.
The metric thread is 25.4 tpi.
The nut is too short to realise it's out of pitch by .6 tpi
and if the modification is done neatly and the resulting
thread mating is not loose, it lives happily ever after.
And only you will know.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   B/B Oil Ports posted by: Paul Aslanides on 7/19/2001 at 6:10:42 AM
Our local bearing supply shop has industrial oil cups, so they should be easily obtainable. I've not yet approached them to determine if they stock the smaller ones suitable to our bikes.

Plus I don't know what thread to ask for. Perhaps they have a standard British Pipe Thread? Does anyone know for sure what the thread is in the bottom brackets? I need to clean up a couple before refitting the oil cups, and would
hate to ruin the existing thread by passing the wrong tap through it. I am referring the the oil cup thread only here.

I did find a plastic cup on one bike, so perhaps the Sturmey-Archer hub oiler cup may fit, if one can obtain them . Just a press fit, or screw it in. Being a tight fit, it should remain in place. Thanks.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   B/B Oil Ports posted by Dale Oswald on 7/19/2001 at 9:13:16 AM
Grease fittings are commonly available with self-tapping threads. I wouldn't be surprised if oil caps were, too.






WANTED:   28" rims posted by: Tom in NJ on 7/19/2001 at 4:57:48 AM
I am looking for a set of 28" steel rims, front 32 holes, rear 36 holes. Rims need not have hubs! Thanks in advace for any help!!


   RE:WANTED:   28 posted by Tom on 7/20/2001 at 7:51:03 AM
New or Used either would be fine.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Need advice posted by: Edward in Vancouver on 7/18/2001 at 6:45:56 PM
Was out riding my bike the other day, and my 4 speed trigger kept jumping from 1st into 2nd every time I went over a bump. N.O.S. 4 speed triggers are very to come by, and I was wondering if there is any trick or a way to adjust the trigger so it doesn't jump into second? Any way to drill out the rivets?

The other question regards an old (1975) GH6 hub that I'm trying to refurbish. I've taken it apart and cleaned and lubed the bearings, but the aramature is rusted and does not turn freely within the magnet. Obviously I can't separate the two to clean with a wire brush. I've been told that soaking items in kerosene will remove rust, and that this is a method museums use for rusted artifacts. Would kerosene damage the armature? Any other way to remove the rust?


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Need advice posted by sam on 7/18/2001 at 7:09:21 PM
I would not use kerosene, it might damage the windings(wire)on the armature.I do use "W-D 40 " on electrical parts.The instructions say it is safe to do so.---sam

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Need advice posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/19/2001 at 9:31:45 AM
Cleaning it with steel wool will ruin the hub. I sent a dynohub to Kwajaeilin in the Marshall islands because the fellow cleaned it with steel wool and rubbed against the contacts with it, shorting it out. He was hitting coconuts in the path at night where there are no lights and cars on the island. I couldn't talk him into something newer. He was loyal to the Sturmey Archer dynohub as are a lot of people even today. I sent my beloved Brooks rack to join him in paradise. Later on, I got a photo of the guy grinning hapilly on a white sandy beach. I would find a N.O.S. one off of E- bay if it is really rusty inside, I would bail on it.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Need advice posted by Dale Oswald on 7/20/2001 at 1:04:35 PM
The shift trigger is probably suffering from one of these: 1) ratchet tab is worn or slipping out of place, 2) spring holding down ratchet tab is broken, perhaps on one side, or 3) rivets holding assembly together have failed and the whole thing is sliding apart. Inspect all; with a careful eye you should be able to diagnose the root cause and apply an appropriate fix. Don't drill out the rivets unless you have to, replacements could be hard to find though small machine screws might be a suitable replacement.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Need advice posted by Randy on 7/20/2001 at 7:01:43 PM
Soaking in a solution of oxalic acid (wood bleach from the hardware store) will remove rust. I've used it on bare and plated steel, but not on an armature. I think the danger would be minor--oxalic acid is mild, and I also use it to remove rust stains from shirts and pants.

http://Patents1.ic.gc.ca/details?patent_number=491915&language= is the patent for the shift trigger. The cover page and abstract are unfortunately not online, but the claims, disclosures/descriptions and drawings are available to view or download as .PDF files. Won't necessarily help with your shifter problem, but gives insight on how the trigger works.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Need advice posted by Edward in Vancouver on 7/20/2001 at 11:14:21 PM
Thanks for th advice! After closely examining the trigger, I discovered that the spring was weak. With a needle-nose, I slipped it off the tab and bent it slightly down, then popped it back into place. Then I wrapped the complete trigger in a rag, and squeezed it in a vice. The result is excellent mechanical working order. I don't know if I can do this again at a late stage, though.
Thanks for the info on the (Canadian!)patent info, real blast looking at all that stuff. The verbal description just kept going on and on.

In regards to the dynohub, I'll try the oxalic acid, but definately use kerosene in the hub shell, it was rusted pretty badly.

Regards, Edward in Vancouver

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Need advice posted by Randy on 7/22/2001 at 10:33:37 AM
Actually, Edward, try the oxalic acid on your shell (after the kerosene, if you want to try that first). The oxalic will chemically dissolve the rust without harming the base metal or plating. I've even used is on a painted Dyno taillight shell. It dissolved the rust without harming the paint.

When you soak a badly rusted part, you'll want to agitate the solution every once in a while. After the rust is gone, there will usually be a little yellowish coating on the part. You can rinse it off before the part dries, sometimes also rubbing with a cotton cloth.

I wish you success with your restoration!

There are links to two more patents (the ASC and FW hubs) on my website at http://www.rickadee.net/'zephyrus/s-a/s-a.html (replace the ' with a tilde)






AGE / VALUE:   bottom bracket oil ports posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/18/2001 at 8:46:11 AM
Bottom bracket oil ports were metal flip type, a sprung ball bearing you push down with the tip of the oil can.Some of the later Raleigh made bikes had a large plastic strap type oil port.
These are great as you can get the spout of the oil can in there and you can oil the bottombracket. The last Raleigh made curbside Huffy find had this feature. It had old style Raleigh brakes and white grips.


   RE:AGE / VALUE: bottom bracket oil ports posted by dave on 7/18/2001 at 9:50:54 AM
I think these were a good idea too ... I had a Dunelt a while back that had the flip type, and the '58 Hercules I just got has the sprung ball bearing. Didn't know Raleigh used these as well.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   bottom bracket oil ports posted by sam on 7/18/2001 at 6:59:01 PM
Old american hubs had these too,Do they still make them?Can you buy them?Where would I look? like where you buy grease fitting for cars maybe?

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   bottom bracket oil ports posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/19/2001 at 8:31:13 AM
The threading is diffrent. I would remove these from old bikes, hubs you find.






AGE / VALUE:   Why don't they sell these in the U.S.? posted by: Christopher on 7/18/2001 at 8:43:37 AM
E -BAY Item #1166274113 Shaft drive bicycle, Antique, Rare.
Not my auction, no relation to seller


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Why don't they sell these in the U.S.? posted by sam on 7/18/2001 at 7:18:15 PM
Saw this one several day ago,Can't remember where but someone had a picture of the same german type only his was older and a 3-speed(in the BB)This one must be new(1970+) the pedals have reflectors.Closest thing to this in the chanless Tiwann bikes sold in the USA






AGE / VALUE:   Double top tube cycle on E- Bay posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/18/2001 at 7:50:50 AM
Iten #1168092863 Vintage 28 inch Rod brake bike.
This one is a double top tube model with enclosed chaincase.
Not my auction, no relation to seller.


   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Double top tube cycle on E- Bay posted by Tom on 7/23/2001 at 8:27:36 PM
The seat is an Olympic,90/3B, made by The Wrights Saddle Company. I have one on a bike of mine.I have some close up pics if you want. It is the nicest frame I have seen.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Double top tube cycle on E- Bay posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/19/2001 at 9:34:08 AM
Buying this is the first stop in any sidecar or saikaa or Cyclo project.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Double top tube cycle on E- Bay posted by Rudgematch on 7/19/2001 at 10:40:57 AM
What kind of saddle is on this bike?
This seems a bit tired and rusty, but that frames is pretty nifty. Is ORKAAN a Dutch brand?