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Archived: English Roadsters







AGE / VALUE:   cotter pin removal trick posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/31/2001 at 4:24:36 PM
I lifted the bike over the vise with the threaded part of the crank cotter pin against one side (one jaw) of the vise and then I turned the handle but I held it at an angle so instead of the pin hitting the other jaw of the vise it was pointed upwards and I was just able to crank it down and move the cotter pin until the one jaw of the vise was hitting the crank. The cotter pin was still in there, now sticking out the other end but then it was easy because I just took a punch and a small hammer and pushed it all the way thru. I took both of them out this way! but it was a little bit tricky and if you have an assistant it is much easier. Somebody to hold the bike, helps but I did it all alone and if I could, then anybody can. My workbench has a medium size vise, nothing special. I have to tell you, that I loved the part where I turned the handle and that awful,stubborn, evil cotterpin (no doubt from a long line of evil cotterpins) came out. It moved, it didn't bend over or mash down but it moved and well, it was wonderful. You need to have replacement cotterpins on hand for the reassembly. I put a Raleigh Record(steel) crank set on the Phillips or Hercules spindle but it wouldn't go together so I used a Raleigh spindle with a Raleigh crankset and it worked. Phillips and Raleigh share one same size spindle. Almost exact, I moved the bottombracket cup adjustment a little bit. It works! A derailer cluster on the A.W. hub and a front and rear changer(mens model) (on some of the ladies the tubing piece(cross tube) is in the way.) This is being done on a mens frame hump style(camelback) frame orange Hawthorne by Hercules(real Hercules) This thing came to me with Ape bars and 26 inch wheels. Ape bars on this size wheel bike! It was a single speed coaster bike. The tires were worn and the owner came up to me to shake my hand again and to tell me how much fun he had with it and "What was I thinking, wanting that? It looks really fun, althought it isn't ready just yet. A three speed hub with a 5 cluster in back and a double chainring in front. I love to canibalize the Raleigh Record! I pulled this one down from the wall of the garage. He said "No bikes" but then I pointed at it and asked "What about that one?" Money talks (7.00) Iv'e never had one of these before!


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   cotter pin removal trick posted by Jeff on 7/31/2001 at 6:09:43 PM
The way I remove the cotters is to place a 3/8" socket over the non-threaded end. Then, I take a heavy-duty forged c-clamp and place the swivel end over the socket and the fixed end over the threaded end of the cotter, and tighten it as tight as I can get it. If the cotter doesn't pop loose, I then take a hammer and hit the c-clamp over the threaded end of the cotter. This will knock the cotter loose. It doesn't mar the crank arms in any way. You could also use the socket in a vice so that you would not have to put the cotter in at an angle, and you wouldn't risk gauging the crank arms.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   cotter pin removal trick posted by Ernie @ Bikes on Boundary -keeper of the bones on 7/31/2001 at 10:01:00 PM
The way I get a stubborn cotter out is put the crank in the vise ,using a couple of copper shims to protect the chrome, then put a big drift-pin on the threaded end of the cotter and give the drift-pin a good whack with my 3 pound blacksmith's hammer, the sound of that nasty cotter hitting the wall is most satisfying! HA!

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   cotter pin removal trick posted by Albert on 8/1/2001 at 4:43:19 PM
I hope Penny reads these entries! The price paid, a bit on the low side, may serve to inject a little realism into the expectations some have for the dollar value of a newly acquired 20-30 year-old bike. In short, your not going to be able to pay- off your college loans from the proceeds of the sale of your Raleigh!






AGE / VALUE:   mid 1920's BSA velodrom endurance bike posted by: John on 7/30/2001 at 10:02:50 PM
This bike belonged to my wife's uncle and was ridden mostly on the east coast( New Jersey)it has 4 wood rimmed wheel's 2 front and 2 back. There is historical documentation of his success. It is all there I think and for its age is in good shape. I need to find an approximate value and maybe a buyer. We live in Northern Ca.







FOR SALE:   SA Rim 40 hole NOS posted by: Jim on 7/30/2001 at 4:18:13 PM
I have a NOS SA rim 40 hole, rear I assume, for sale. Flat style. $30 plus shipping. I also have 5 NOS Rigida 40 hole flat style rims for sale, nice replacements for your Raleigh $25 each plus shipping.







AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh roadster rod brakes posted by: Leon on 7/30/2001 at 3:05:53 PM
The rod brakes on my 2 roadsters barely slow me down when trying to stop. Is there a secret to making the rod brakes work? Is it possible to mount an auxiliary brake? Sure would like some help!


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh roadster rod brakes posted by Albert on 7/30/2001 at 5:03:42 PM
I would rebuild the rear wheel which I assume has an SA AW hub. Replace the AW with a S3C, a three speed/coaster combination. The spokes can be reused as the hubs are of the same diameter. I have made several of my rodbrake roadsters far safer by this conversion

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh roadster rod brakes posted by Esteban on 7/30/2001 at 5:59:38 PM
Have you adjusted the tension in the rods? There should be a linkage in the middle of the rod where the thinner (male) upper piece fits into the thicker (female) bottom rod (its a shame we have gender-specific terms for such mechanical parts!). Anyway, the nut in the middle can be loosened and readjusted (at least on the '36 Phillips and '80 Raleigh Dl-1 I have here). You should be able to get new pads here at VVVintage's NOS parts list if the pads are the trouble. I don't know why this wouldn't work -- and it would save you the hub transfer if you don't want to go that far. Good luck anyway...stopping is an important part of enjoying (and surviving) riding/commuting on old 3 speeds.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh roadster rod brakes posted by delrio@mac.com on 7/30/2001 at 6:03:02 PM
Oh, yea, there's a really helpful diagram for rod brake adjustment at www.rickadee.net/'zephyrus/dl-1/dl-1.html
good luck.






AGE / VALUE:   triumph/Raleigh Roadster posted by: Phil Jarvis on 7/30/2001 at 2:08:36 PM
I would be interested to know what age is my ladies triumph roadster. It is a single speed, rod brake model. It has Triumph transfers and a Triumph chain wheel, but I have noticed Raleigh stickers on it as well, so presumably Triumph cycles was taken over by Raleigh Industries?







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Dursley-Pedersen roadster! posted by: Randy on 7/29/2001 at 2:54:03 PM
U.C Davis recently bought a collecion of unrestored bicycles, and Linda saw a little TV news segment on them. It is an amazing collection, and is in storage until the University can find space for a permanent museum. The bikes range back to the early 1820's--there is one Hobby Horse with no pedals! Boneshakers, several high-wheelers (including both a Star and an Eagle), at least one spring-fork Victor, a couple of shaft-drives (I assume Columbias), one gear-drive bike, a sociable bike, a Coventry Rotary tricycle and at least one other high-wheel trike, several multi-seat pacing bicycles, and many many more. But for me, the highlight of the collection is an unrestored Dursley Pedersen.

It was obviously made for 28" wheels--the stirrup brakes are set up for them. But it has 26" wood-rim wheels now. And the crankset is also not original. But, based on pictures in David Evan's book, the rest is original. The seat is in remarkably good shape. I would love to have a chance to restore it, but I don't think I'm anywhere near worthy of the task. I have been up once to measure and photograph it, with an invitation to come up again. I do want to thoroughly document the bike in its current condition.

It has caused me to rethink my own project. I will likely build a more faithful replica of this bike (with fork-top handlebars and stirrup brakes) rather than the design on my website. The brake linkage is pretty neat--cables inside the handlebars, transitioning to pullrods in the "fork crown" area. I do have a set of unused 28" rims (Raleigh, though made in France) and plenty more S-A hubs to use! I still plan to make a "reasonable" replica, with standard parts that I can maintain and get spares for.

I put a picture of the "Davis" Pedersen at http://www.rickadee.net/'zephyrus/misc/davis012.jpg and a picutre of the rear brake stirrup, showing how it's missing the current rim, at http://www.rickadee.net/'zephyrus/misc/davis013.jpg As always, replace the ' with a tilde.







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Beauties posted by: Jorge Üllfig on 7/29/2001 at 12:39:19 PM
Check out on eBay items # 1170038926 and 1170343523
Not My Auction or Relation To Seller !!







AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Superbe posted by: Tom on 7/28/2001 at 8:45:59 PM
I have a Raleigh Superbe with the serial # 53807 RA It is not in the serial # database. The hubs are 61 Brooks seat says 60. This is the second Raleigh that has the RA in the serial #. The other one has the 51 hubs. I am sure the dates of the bikes are the year of the hubs. The 51 came from the original owner. The 51 was bought in Canada and the 61 is from the US. Did Raleigh make a change in those years in serial #.







AGE / VALUE:   S-A not freewheeling too well posted by: Dewane on 7/27/2001 at 1:47:13 PM
This is a dumb question, I kind of feel like I am asking a Rolls-Royce mechanic to check my tires, but here goes.

I have a '72 Sports with 3 speed AW. When I stop pushing on the pedals and try to freewheel, the crank still turns. It's not as bad as a fixed gear but I get a sickening "clunk" every time I press down on the pedal for the next rotation. Any idea what this could be? I can hear the pawls clicking if that's any help. Thanks.


   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: S-A not freewheeling too well posted by Dewane on 7/29/2001 at 8:11:39 AM
Thanks for all of your advice, I thought this was the right place to ask. I keep the hub oiled pretty well (sewing machine oil) but added a bit more to be sure since this would be the easiest fix, unfortunately that didn't help. Now there's a squeaking noise coming from the bottom bracket. Looks like it might be time to review Sheldon's site, remove those cotters, and check out the bottom bracket as long as I have the cotters off. Please let me know if there's anything in particular I should look for, even if it seems like common sense, I couldn't be more clueless about this sort of thing.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   S-A not freewheeling too well posted by Sheldon Brown on 7/29/2001 at 8:19:46 PM
The most common causes of the cranks turning when you coast are:

•Chain too tight (shouldn't be taut, should have roughly 1/2" play.)

•Cone adjustment too tight (only adjust the left cone. Should be slight play at the rim.)

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   S-A not freewheeling too well posted by Albert on 7/30/2001 at 2:07:07 PM
Please explain how worn cotters could possible be thecause of this problem!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   S-A not freewheeling too well posted by Mario Romano on 7/28/2001 at 10:57:59 AM
Two possible causes: the cotter pins, who locks the pedals on the central movement, could be very worn, so, buy new ones. Second cause possible: your freewheel could be with his mechanism worn or with malfunction, so, buy new one.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   S-A not freewheeling too well posted by Ben on 7/28/2001 at 3:39:03 PM
Also, could be that there is not enough lubrication on the sprocket side, or at all. Try oil first (about a tablespoon through the oil filler hole in the hub). If that doesn't do it, come back here and ask us how to overhaul the hub.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   S-A not freewheeling too well posted by Ben on 7/28/2001 at 3:41:24 PM
Interesting, cuold be both problems....that is, unlubricated, binding bearings on sprocket side of rear hub, and worn cottters...






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Phillips Mfg. England posted by: Stephen Burris on 7/26/2001 at 8:22:49 PM
Sorry,I accidently hit enter.I have an girls bicycle dated 1950s or 1960s.Made in Englang and distributed by Ranger of Chicago Ill. I can not find any serial numbers on this bicycle anywhere can anyone help. I would like to learn more about it but know where to start.Any ideas?


   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Phillips Mfg. England posted by JimW. on 7/29/2001 at 9:07:09 AM
I know that they mostly mail-ordered directly to the customers. They had small ads in most of the boys' magazines, as well as Popular Mechanics-type publications.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Mead Ranger posted by Sheldon Brown on 7/29/2001 at 8:22:32 PM
See: http://sheldonbrown.com/ranger.html

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Phillips Mfg. England posted by sam on 7/27/2001 at 4:16:01 PM
Ranger of Chicago Ill. is Mead Ranger Bicycles Of Chicago.they were in bussness until 1953.Wish i knew more on them myself.Anyone got the Mead story?--sam

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Phillips Mfg. England posted by sam on 7/30/2001 at 8:13:51 PM
Sheldon'S page has the best story on them I found But what happened to them?Were they taken over by Phillips or some other bike company?

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Phillips Mfg. England posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 8/2/2001 at 10:36:01 AM
Good question, Sam. Keep asking and let us know what you turn up.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Phillips Mfg. England posted by: Stephen Burris on 7/26/2001 at 8:18:32 PM
Please help, What I have is an girls bicycle dated either 1950s







WANTED:   1960's Raleigh Professional Track Bike posted by: John Thompson on 7/26/2001 at 9:10:14 AM
Wanted: Head Tube Badge and Reynolds 531 decals for subject bike. Bike was built in Carlton shop. Thanks for your help, John Thompson.







MISC:   Disassembling the S-A AW Hub posted by: David P. Goncalves on 7/25/2001 at 3:44:08 PM
Hello all.

When I was dissasembling the left ball cage on the AW hub shell, my screwdriver was getting caught on something stringy. After opening up the cage, I pulled out an entwined mass of (what appears to be) hair!

Is this what I think it is? Or does Sturmey Archer put in this thread-like material into the ball cages?


Thanks for the help.


   RE:MISC:   Disassembling the S-A AW Hub posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/26/2001 at 8:19:07 AM
There must be a lot of hair blowing about and getting wraped around the axle and it works it's way inside. String and thread too. The corners on the clutch have to be straight and not rounded off. There are a few points to check when overhauling these hubs.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Peugeot posted by: Don on 7/25/2001 at 1:06:09 PM
Hi, all. I have a Peugeot bike from the 70's with a Sturmey-archer 5 speed hub. I have cleaned it up and gotten it ready, but when I pedal the chain slips about like it is not engaging. Does this mean the hub is shot? Can it be adjusted? My love for bikes far exceeds my wealth of mechanical know how. Thanks for your time.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Peugeot posted by Scott on 7/26/2001 at 11:19:03 AM
Your adjuster chain indicator needs to be , well, adjusted. The rule is that the chain is level with the axel in the middle gear position. Take it to any shop still familiar with the SA hub. Takes about 15 seconds to set right.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Peugeot posted by Bill Putnam on 7/26/2001 at 12:59:30 PM
Along with proper adjustment of the hub, it is important
that the cables run free without binding. Another problem
was the shift levers supplied with the 5 speed hubs did not
work well. Internal wear of the clutch and general gumming
from old oil can also result in skipping.

The hubs work best if you use two 3 speed triggers instead
of the originals. Sheldon Brown discusses this at
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer.html#45

Manuals are on line at http://www.toehead.demon.co.uk/stmain.htm

Some parts are available (mainly those shared with the AW
hub) so often rebuilding the hub is not too difficult. For
some of the more rare internal parts you may have to
scrounge a little more.

I'd suggest lubing the hub with a light weight oil, adjusting,
and possibly switching the shift levers to dual 3 speed triggers.
If the hub still skips then a rebuild might be required.

The rule of thumb that the indicator rod be even with the
axle in middle gear only works if all the parts are correct-
often different length indicator rods and sometimes axles
are substituted and then the only way to get the correct
adjustment is to shift into the lowest gear (right hand
side) and tighten the adjusting barrel until there is no
play in the indicator rod. Left side should be done in
a similar fashion-with the trigger pulled back all the
way all slack taken out of the cable.






WANTED:   Nipples for Philco Brake Cables posted by: Paul Aslanides on 7/25/2001 at 5:13:07 AM
Does anyone know where I might obtain some nipples to make up new cables for these old brakes, please? The internal friction in these cables is beyond the pale, so I'd like to make up some using modern, teflon-lined cable.
Also, any advice on say, if I made some brass nipples up on
a lathe, would silver solder be sufficient to hold the cable, or should I braze them? Thanks.


   RE:WANTED:   Nipples for Philco Brake Cables posted by Warren on 7/25/2001 at 5:54:33 AM
This is not something you want to do poorly. Go to a custom motorcycle shop, especially one that deals in Harleys. They should have the expertise to do it right.

   RE:RE:WANTED:   Nipples for Philco Brake Cables posted by Warren on 7/25/2001 at 6:06:04 AM
I'm assuming that you're after a rear. I have NOS front cables for sale. Contact me off list.

   Making cables posted by GL on 7/25/2001 at 8:34:31 AM
I used to make repair and modify motorcycle cables all the time. Bike ones are the same only smaller.

At the factory all they ever did was use brass nipples and soft solder. It's plenty strong if done right. I never had one of mine fail. Usually I use an ordinary soldering gun although I have also used a tiny butane torch like a penlight that works very well.

First flare the end of the nipple to a funnel shape if possible. When you go to cut the cable, tin it first in other words soak it in solder. Use acid flux to clean off the grease. You can buy this in any hardware or plumbing store. So tin about 1/2 inch to 1 inch of the cable where you mean to cut it, then cut with pliers and the ends won't fray. If the end is a little splayed from the pliers you can clean it up with a file or grinder.

Now push the tinned end thru the nipple. Add a drop of flux and solder it. Splay out the end of the cable when the solder is melted, in other words frazzle it up. Make sure you get a good bond with the solder, this is more a matter of having the right amount of heat and a clean surface than anything. You only need a drop of solder, if it won't take back off, clean everything real good and start over.

By splaying the end of the cable and soaking it in solder you create a plug that is bigger than the hole in the nipple and it can't possibly pull out.

The reason for tinning the cable is so it won't fray and get too big to go thru the nipple. If you slide the nipple on first then cut the cable it doesn't matter so you can eliminate the tinning. Although the tinning does guarantee that you get a good bond.

When done I usually have to clean up the end of the cable on a grinder to finish it off neatly.

I have tried silver solder and brazing and they don't work. They require so much heat you burn up the cable.

   RE:How do you make 3 speed shifter cable? posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/25/2001 at 9:10:14 AM
I have been saving the old cable brakes and hardware because one day I would finally learn how to make my own cables. The newer teflon lined cables glide through the housing better and this coating keeps away the rust and corrosion. I like the long adjusting barrels on the old Raleigh brakes.
What about making new Sturmey- Archer gear cables? These have a small brass ferrule that has the cable run through it and then it is crimped. The whole thing has to go through the hole in the shifter.
I have not been able to find the brass tubing in this small of a size. New teflon- lined shifter cable would be nice, and finding Sturmey- Archer 3 speed shifter cable in the longer size to use on my 28 inch wheel Raleigh Tourist D.L.1. has been difficult in years past, because the shops only had the basic size in stock. It would be really nice to be able to make my own shifter cable.

   RE:RE:How do you make 3 speed shifter cable? posted by Albert on 7/25/2001 at 2:16:29 PM
Robin, a great question and I'm glade you posed it! I too would like to do the same; I hope someone comes up with a suggestion.

   RE:RE:RE:How do you make 3 speed shifter cable? posted by JimW. on 7/25/2001 at 8:57:12 PM
Hobby and model shops have a wide variety of round and
square brass tubing, in sizes, from 1/2" down to teeny diameters.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:How do you make 3 speed shifter cable? posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/26/2001 at 8:22:49 AM
We just lost a very good hobby shop in my area. One day it's there, the next it's gone. I will try it and report back. Thanks

   RE:WANTED:   Nipples for Philco Brake Cables posted by Peter on 7/26/2001 at 10:22:20 AM
If you have a problem with making new ones I have several new front and rear ones of various makes. Let me know the length and nipple type and I will look through them.

   RE:Making cables - where to get brass tubing posted by GL on 7/29/2001 at 12:21:51 PM
I used to get small brass tubing out of old ball point pens. The refills were made of brass. I didn't mention this before because they started using plastic instead of brass many years ago. Then I thought maybe I'm not the only one with old dried up pens around the house LOL. I also melt the solder on old ends, pull them off and use them over.

On reviewing my other post I should mention you can use elecronic contact cleaner or automotive brake cleaner spray (same thing in a bigger can) to clean off grease. If you are using old pen refills cut off the end, poke a wire thru and clean with pipe cleaners and spray.

You should tin the end of the cable before soldering in order to insure the solder goes all the way thru the nipple. And when you solder, apply the heat to the nipple and watch for the solder to soak all the way thru and come out the other end. When tinning things, you can wipe off the excess solder with a damp rag while it is hot. You should tin the tip of the solering gun and wipe it off to be sure it is completely tinned before you start soldering, this will insure good heat transfer.

Once you get the hang of soldering it is easy to make cables, soldering the end takes only a minute. I buy new cables with the wrong end (the only ones available) and get them too long. Then I cut off one end, work the ferrule off the casing,pull the wire back into the outer casing and cut the casing to the correct length with side cutter pliers. Then clean up the mashed end of the casing on the bench grinder, push the cable thru,stick the ferrule on, solder the right end on the cable and there you are, a new cable of the correct length with the correct ends easy as pie.

   RE:RE:WANTED:   Nipples for Philco Brake Cables posted by Bill Putnam on 7/26/2001 at 1:02:50 PM
Harris Cyclery has bolt on Cable ends to keep the old
style raleigh brakes usable. You might see if they
would work:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/three.html#brakes

   RE:WANTED:   Nipples for Philco Brake Cables posted by Bill Putnam on 7/26/2001 at 1:06:06 PM
Along with Harris, this site has NOS brake cables as well:
http://OldRoads.com/cab.html

   RE:RE:How do you make 3 speed shifter cable? posted by Robert on 7/26/2001 at 2:55:01 PM
If you can't find the right size tubing (some hardware stores also carry it) get the next larger size and call a few jewelers. One is bound to have a drawplate that can draw tubing down to the right size. Not a difficult thing to do so don't let them BS you.

   RE:RE:How do you make 3 speed shifter cable? posted by Robert on 7/26/2001 at 3:03:40 PM
P.S. A jeweler's saw is one of the best tools for cutting small tubing. If you're lucky the jeweler will have a jig for cutting equal lengths. Ask about it.

   RE:WANTED:   Nipples for Philco Brake Cables posted by Ben on 7/27/2001 at 5:10:03 AM
If you have no hobby shop, pick up "RC Modeler" and look for suppliers there, or in Chicago thre is Stanton's Hobby Shop on Milwaukee Avenue.

   RE:Making cables posted by Paul Aslanides on 7/27/2001 at 6:20:59 AM
Gentlemen - Thankyou one and all. I did try making up a motorcycle cable, about 23 years ago, and couldn't get it right because I simply couldn't obtain acid-core solder. Boiling the cable to get the grease out didn't help, and I had never heard of acid flux. Now I see our new hardware store has acid-core solder, and with your instructions I should have more success this time. Much obliged. It's times like these that I miss my good old Indian motorcycle: the only nipple was on the front brake cable; throttle and spark control was by single strand piano wire. GDA 741 where are you?