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This is an archive of Vintage Bicycle Information.
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Archived: English Roadsters







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   TESTING, 1,2, TESTING posted by: Jorge Üllfig on 9/29/2001 at 1:30:16 AM
TESTING, TESTING...







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Really Poor Rudge Sport posted by: harold on 9/15/2001 at 8:16:24 PM
While on a walk tonight I found a pile of bikes that an old woman left out for anyone to take. The most interesting is an old Rudge Sport (wooman's model) with dynohub, light, cool full chaincase, etc. Unfortunately, it is in really bad condition. Lots of rust. There were alse a bunch of old lightweight lugged racing bikes (all had major problems) and two tandem bikes that looked like they were pieced together by welding two frams together. If any one wants, I can grab the Rudge for you. You'd have to come pick it up in Connecticut. Again, all bikes are in poor condition.







AGE / VALUE:   REBUILDING PEDALS ON 1970 SPORT posted by: JAMES T. SALZLEIN on 9/15/2001 at 2:09:02 PM
Hello All, I have a 1970 Raleigh Sport. The pedals have become noisy. I went to rebuiold them to find they had no removable dust caps. The bolts that go through the end plates and pedal blocks have the thread peaned over. What do I do? How do I overhaul them? I would greatly appreciate your help







AGE / VALUE:   Hybrid gearing project posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 9/15/2001 at 10:05:45 AM
I really cannot make this mistake again as I am running out of threaded drivers!
While inserting a longer axle and a threaded Sturmey-Archer driver in the rear wheel that is going to be a 3 speed hub with a derailer cluster I made a mistake. I put it back together with two origonal parts that need to be omitted next time, so that they don't interfere with the normal free turning of the derailer frewheel cluster.

There is a locknut, and a keyed axle outer piece that goes around the cone to lock it in place. These rub against the freewheel cluster of 5 teeth. In the inside of the cluster these two parts come into contact with the freewheel and they prevent it from turning. You want to find a freewheel with a larger inside diameter if you can, if they make these like this. The whole thing locks together and I have ended up wasting two whole hub innards! Threaded drivers and all. Once you have the axle/cone holding piece and the cluster threaded into each other it is too late. Plus if you try this without the proper freewheel removal tool, (like I do) you are asking for trouble. Once the two parts are together you cannot unscrew them. The cone bocomes a captive so you had better use a good(old) one. You get up a tree that you can't get down from. I will not use the locknut,(even if I round it off) or this other axle piece again and just let the cone setting hold it all in place. With the derailer spacer pressing against the cone and the bike frame against that, it should be alright. Plus the added space is needed if I am to get the adaptor claw around this axle.
Sheldon Brown has a whole page on his hybrid gearing project and I/m sure he though it out better than this and didn't do this mistake. He drilled into the adaptor claw with a conical counter sink drill bit and it works. Myself,I'm looking for thinner adaptor claws on garage sale bikes. You have to look for thinner derailer clusters that give the gear ratio you need. I'm glad we're not in school here, because Prof. Sheldon would give me a big F. or an I. for incomplete.

To my delight, I hit upon a casche of long axles and I have 9 threaded drivers left.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Hybrid gearing project posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/2/2001 at 3:45:13 PM
The derailer geared Raleigh Sprite has a thin derailer but the inside circle is too small unless you grind down the cone lock ring and prise off the cone dustcap. Take a good look at it before you screw the thing together. I am going to keep looking for another derailer cluster to use in these projects.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Brooks B-66 saddle- Two-Wire! posted by: brooks pomper on 9/15/2001 at 6:23:26 AM
Just bought a Brooks B-66 saddle that looks like it's from the '50s or so, jdging by the nameplate on the rear and the hole pattern on top. As I was cleaning it, it suddenly struck me- this is a TWO-WIRE saddle not a four-wire! What gives? I thought all B-66s were four wire. Does anybody know anything about this anomaly? It's a "Gent's Model", if that helps. Thanks for any information.







AGE / VALUE:   Circling vulture swoops in for a free meal posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 9/13/2001 at 4:54:01 PM
I am going home when I see wheels out at the kerb! The junk bike comes into view and lo and behold I see brand new 26 X 1 3/8 tires, rim strips, tubes full of air and hard as rocks. A Shimano 3 speed shifter, and clamp. The rear wheel was missing parts and the rest of it I will give to a pal. So nothing goes to waste.


   RE:AGE / VALUE: Circling vulture swoops in for a free meal, unless it doesn't smell right. posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 9/13/2001 at 5:01:55 PM
Unless, the bike was painted and then I don't touch it no matter what it is.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Circling vulture swoops in for a free meal, unless it doesn't smell right. posted by Cal on 9/14/2001 at 5:54:27 AM
I never pass up a free bike unless it is completely rusted. You never know what 'donor' parts it will have.

I also like to take the 'lesser' bikes I find and make them roadworthy and dontate them.

The way things are looking we may all be on bicycles soon enough.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Rod brake service tips? posted by: DBean on 9/13/2001 at 6:12:46 AM
I recently got a rough DL1 that is proving a very nice
commuter. While replacing the tires, I was faced with
the new problem of getting the wheels off past the rod
brakes. Is there some tip that would make this easier?
I saw no alternative to removing and replacing the brake
shoes.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Rod brake service tips? posted by Albert on 9/13/2001 at 12:25:41 PM
Welcome to the group! You've figured it out; removing the pad is the best and , as far as I know, the only way to do it.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   They don't make them like they used to... posted by: Dale Oswald on 9/13/2001 at 4:54:43 AM
Last night, I rebuilt a crank from a 1950s roadster, the second time I've done so recently (one Raleigh, the other had a Phillips crank.) Here were two bottom ends that hadn't been touched since 1955. Both had semi-solid grease in them and were hard to turn. One had normal wear, the other had hard use. BOTH NEEDED ONLY TO BE CLEANED AND GREASED. They had nice bearing wear patterns, no broken balls, no chips or pits.

Both of these cranks have more life left in them than anything Shimano makes today.

Don't get me wrong, new technology has its place, but I stand in honor of the old stuff that was grossly overbuilt and just keeps going.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   They don't make them like they used to... posted by Ben on 9/13/2001 at 7:25:25 AM
I may be wrong but this sounds like a case of underuse. Anything that has been used little will not show significant wear even if it was never rebuilt, and most of the products on the market today will exhibit the same properties if maintained properly. In support of your conclusion though, I have a '59 Phillips that has a flawless bottom bracket too.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   They don't make them like they used to... posted by Ben on 9/13/2001 at 7:26:56 AM
BTW, how could you tell that one had hard use? Very worn pedals?

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   They don't make them like they used to... posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 9/13/2001 at 12:09:02 PM
From the bike being in new condition to years later. The rider can put 15-20,000 miles on the thing. Try that with a new bike.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   They don't make them like they used to... posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 9/29/2001 at 6:11:11 PM
We took apart a 1907 Sturmey-Archer hub and examined the gear teeth and brake bands. The early ones were a diffrent, beefier breed. Things get refined and the question is "How can we make this more cheaply, cut corners and get away with it?"






MISC:   To Our Fallen Bretheren posted by: Ben on 9/12/2001 at 9:03:59 PM
I'd just like to take this opportunity to ask all of you to pray for the victims of the disaster our country has just endured and their families.

Thank You


   RE:MISC:   To Our Fallen Bretheren posted by Salvatore on 9/13/2001 at 5:20:17 AM
Ditto.
This country is going to come together in a way which we have not in 50 years.

   RE:MISC:   To Our Fallen Bretheren posted by Ian on 9/15/2001 at 2:31:45 AM
It is not just your country that was affected and it is not just your country that has become united. Be aware that this horror had just as much impact on the other side of the world and has united the whole free world in the determination to put an end to it once and for ever.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Circa 1960 Hercules Bikes? posted by: John Higgins on 9/12/2001 at 6:37:05 PM
I've two AMF/Hercules matching men's and women's bicycle. I'd like to be able to determine a specific model and year. If you're willing to look at them I could send you some details digital photos. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

John


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Circa 1960 Hercules Bikes? posted by Salvatore on 9/13/2001 at 5:20:43 AM
Look for a 2 digit date code on the rear hub






MISC:   Rim size ? ? posted by: Ed on 9/12/2001 at 5:21:17 PM
I'm posting again because I am having trouble figuring out what the size of my vintage wheel is; one of the 26 X 1 3/8..?..26 X 1 3/4, I now see in an old bike book that there was a 26 1/2 X 1 1/2 which looks most like the size of whats left on my Rigida rims, if it's the latter, is such a tire made today. Ed







AGE / VALUE:   For Sale: 3-speed shifter cables for Raleigh Sports posted by: Kevin on 9/12/2001 at 5:13:15 PM
New old stock, gray housings, $6 each, postage paid.







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   N.O.S. FG hub posted by: Edward in Vancouver on 9/11/2001 at 10:45:02 PM
Just got it in the mail today, a real N.O.S. FG hub, dated 07 54. On impulse I weighed it, 1850 grams, without any oil.
Now I've got to take it apart and clean the factory grease from the bearings. After 48 odd years the grease has the consistancy and colour of earwax...







AGE / VALUE:   Rudge Before Raleigh posted by: Marcos Feitosa on 9/10/2001 at 4:57:21 PM
Who could help me to identify model and find a complete Rudge manufacturing history/data base? I'm an owner of one Rudge 1941-45 bicycle and I'm trying to get complete information about this brand. During the re-building work I've discovered a lot of important informations, but it is'nt enough. I will write a restoration book (manual)with pictures for my self enjoy.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Rudge Before Raleigh posted by Ed on 9/10/2001 at 8:54:17 PM
A brief but informative history of Rudge encluding some neat photos can be found on the CR main websight under British Isles. May provide you with a good start. Good luck,sounds like a very interesting bike.






MISC:   Tire/rim size posted by: Ed on 9/10/2001 at 10:21:59 AM
Wanted to know if the British F.SS type wheel is the same size as the Schwinn S-7, 26" X 1 3/4". Where can I find an all gumwall tire to fit a 1950 Sturmy Archer 3-speed with a (RIGIDA deco =std=) rim.


   RE:MISC:   Tire/rim size posted by Cal on 9/11/2001 at 5:18:05 AM
The "Tire/Rim" chart under the "General Resources" section of this site says they are the same:

http://www.oldroads.com/tirerim.asp