OldRoads.com

This is an archive of Vintage Bicycle Information.
For current Discussions, go to our main site: OldRoads.com

If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.

If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.

Archived: English Roadsters







AGE / VALUE:   A couple of interesting bikes on ebay posted by: sam on 11/16/2002 at 5:28:26 PM
There is a 1952 humber(bi-fork&dancing chainring)sports,compleat but needs work and this great Canada CCM bike--WOW just look at the detail on this beatiful CCM.I had to super size all the photos!Check out the seat post,tyres(love those studded tyres),crank arms & chainring. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=736532369&indexURL=2#ebayphotohosting


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   A couple of interesting bikes on ebay posted by Tom on 11/16/2002 at 10:44:03 PM
That is a beautiful bike. It looks to me like the pre 1920's crank.The top bar is straight which is like the early CCM's. Later ones had the camel hump frames. It looks like it is very original and in great shape. I have 1 of these bike frames but it is poor shape. I also have the double top bar frames and complete bikes. You can see a few of my bikes on this page. http://www.geocities.com/oldy57bikes/oldy57bikes.index.html

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   A couple of interesting bikes on ebay posted by Warren on 11/17/2002 at 12:57:04 AM
It is at least early twenties as you say Tom. For those of you unfamiliar with these bikes, have a look at the crankset. CCM was a forerunner in the cotterless 3 piece crankset. The crankarms accomodated a triangular axle and was held on with crankbolts...reverse thread on the left side which was really overkill since there is little to no force on the union of the axle/crankarm that would encourage the bolt to work itself free. Just like normal cranks.

Nice bike.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   A couple of interesting bikes on ebay posted by sam on 11/17/2002 at 4:25:14 AM
I though some of our Maple Leaf boys would pick up on those beautiful crank arms.Many old bike company including Schwinn and Dayton used these in the teens and earler.Why did it take 50 to60 years for them to return?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   A couple of interesting bikes on ebay posted by Tom on 11/17/2002 at 5:50:54 AM
Those are interesting cranks and arms. I have 3 of those cranks and arms and a inch pitch one also. I didn't think CCM made those, this one may be home made but looks great.I think Warren might know who will buy this bike. Does "Fred" ring a bell. I have seen his collection of CCM stuff. Too bad he won't start a web site to show the collection. Amazing amount of bikes and NOS parts.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   A couple of interesting bikes on ebay posted by Warren on 11/17/2002 at 5:05:24 PM
I don't know who Fred is but I do have reprints of catalogues from 1921 on that show that crank on bikes up until 1935. But the straight top tube does indicate an earlier bike.






AGE / VALUE:   raleigh pictures posted by: paul v on 11/16/2002 at 9:29:53 AM
would anybody have pictures of a 1973 raleigh sports.i have finished the restoration and just want to make sure everything goes in the right place.i received the bike as a box of bits and have had great fun getting it all back together


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   raleigh pictures posted by P.C. Kohler on 11/16/2002 at 4:57:31 PM
I still have my teenage "wish book"; the 1973 Raleigh catalogue (N. American market) and can scan and send you the excellent photo of the "Sports" model, in that glorious if impractical Ivory Glaze colour.

Let me know if this would be helpful.

P.C. Kohler






AGE / VALUE:   Is this right! posted by: sam on 11/16/2002 at 4:05:12 AM
$30--thirty bucks!http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=736456743


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Is this right! posted by P.C. Kohler on 11/16/2002 at 4:37:50 AM
Cycles of Yesteryear is selling the same bloody brake blocks for £4 for four....

Silly Season continues on eBay

P.C. Kohler, noting a DL-1 sold on eBay for the same price a few days ago

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Is this right! posted by Matthew on 11/16/2002 at 3:25:04 PM
I take it the vendor must wear a cloak, three-cornered hat, leather knee boots and answer to the Name Dick Turpin! It is definately highway robbery! I mean it's enough to make PC swear.
Hi Ho Black Bess away.
Matthew

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Is this right! posted by P.C. Kohler on 11/16/2002 at 5:08:57 PM
SO we might be on the look-out for the piano wire stretched across isolated bits of cycle paths around the Philadelphia area then? He must be looking forward to the April British Bike Weekend then? If I come up for that, I'll sling my Mark V Lee-Enfield over my frame and defend me Rudge and me brake blocks to the end...

P.C. Kohler, beggin' pardon for swearing in my last post...

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Is this right! posted by michael on 11/20/2002 at 8:46:50 AM
Now I know how to make my fortune! I'm going straight to my corner bikeshop (that is the guy with three red tubes hanging off the tree branch) and filling my suitcase with brake shoes. Then It'll be Beijing by train and a jumbo to LAX. I'll give you guys a cut price, US$25 per 2 pairs. Waddya say?






AGE / VALUE:   It's about time/Aarrgh, It's a ladies frame posted by: Christopher on 11/15/2002 at 8:37:19 PM
"Where's the garage?" I ask. The answer? "Out back where garages usually are!" They are looking at me.
"Well it's about time! After 60,000 estate sales I finally see an English bike."
Now this is me here, and with my luck, so my story is not too exciting.
Ladies Raleigh Sports old style. rebuildable pedals, alloy propstand. Nice 1950's bike with oil ports and good solid chrome wheels.
Leather seat.
Of course, now because this is me here finding it and not one of you guys, there are no: bell, no rear rack, no enclosed chainguard, no paper literature, no old bicycle tools( Yes, I looked) It's dented/ faded and missing a rear reflector. It was cheap!
Now the good part!
In back, there was drawers with small metal parts soldering flux and crap like that.
What do I find?
Small original black rubber reflector with Raleigh Industries on it. Missing a screw but If I'm careful I can remove the reflector and put in a bolt and nut.
Excellent shape. Looks never used.
Nothing else of interest.
Now that I have found this, it'll be years before I find another bike and when I do it'll be another ladies frame bike in similar condition.
Unless I figure out how to reverse bad bicycle karma and soon!


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   It's about time/Aarrgh, It's a ladies frame posted by Chris on 11/15/2002 at 8:53:33 PM
New tires were in, 26 X 1 3/8 E.A.3. and they are narrower and slightly thinner. Same size numbers just a diffrent tire anyway. Same tread pattern. One set along side the other and the balloonish one was slightly taller too.
Try to findn and keep the older balloonish ones as they give a better ride.
For the Westwood rims in the 26 X 1 3/8 size these newer style thin ones really don't work out too good. With a endrick rim and if you don't weigh much I suppose it is ok.

   How to rig those old reflectors? posted by David Poston on 11/15/2002 at 11:45:58 PM
Christopher,

I have a couple of old black rubber reflectors as well. Harvey Russell of cyclesofyesteryear sent them to me for free. They have the black housing and the red reflector, but no mounting bolt or nut with the metal insert that goes inside the rubber housing. I was going to take the screw and nut off my DL1 mudguards (no reflector present at the moment) and use it, but I am missing the metal insert thingie that acts as a big washer, I guess. Without the metal insert, the old rubber housing is in danger of getting squeezed and broken when I tighten up on the nut to get my mudguard wire stays in place. Any suggestions on how to solve this problem? Should I just look for a big washer?

I'm going to try Armorall to make the rubber part look black again and new.

David

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   It's about time/Aarrgh, It's a ladies frame posted by Matthew on 11/16/2002 at 3:30:49 PM
David,
The big washer idea is good. You need the 'penny' washer type, the size of an old penny with a small hole in. Theis will do the job but the original parts were bright to provide some added reflection behind the red refractive lense. They were not flat but had a 5 degree fold in them horizontally across the hole. Does this help??
Matthew

   RE:How to rig those old reflectors? posted by Chris on 11/16/2002 at 9:30:05 PM
David, go to the hardware store and root thru the drawers for a washer that will fit. You could go with plastic or whatever. And if they stock Simichrome polish,please let me know so I can get some from you and go home again.

   ladies model Raleigh Sports rear brakes posted by Chris on 11/16/2002 at 10:36:58 PM
Harvy should be on your Christmas card list then, that was nice of him.
This ladies Raleigh was a college bike and must have seen a lot of use. Those poor metal mudguards are a sight to see.I don't know yet how good the rest of it will clean up.
The rims were not out kissing kerbs, they are straight and true and lovely. The bike was not taken care of. Oxidation, slight rust, dirty and weathered. It was sitting a long time. The chain looked like it was growing hair. I cut it off and tossed it. The thing is 41 years old. I was surprised how nice it looked leaning up against the garage. I'll take it apart, clean and polish it silly and dissasemble and overhaul and free up everything half frozen with 40 years of old bike funk and come spring, She'll ride again.
I have a set of guards that are in better shape. Perhaps a new set? I'll see.
I'll be zooming along, Whoosh! with that wonderfull sound, that famous click, click, click of the Sturmey-Archer hub. The way the bike is frozen- ish with old dried out/ half vanished grease and sticky, sappy oil is strange. To pick it up and move it around, to get it back to running form is like breaking it free from some force that is holding it down.
A squirt bottle filled with ammonia, (for the rust) some bronze or copper wool and soap. Hot water rinse. New hub innards, new chain, new tires, re- trued, Modern grease! n.o.s. grips. I turned the original plastic topped rear brake adjuster and noticed those wonderfull, original, brake shoes move so carefully and slowly inching toward the rear wheel rim. Such wonderful brakes, such excellent adjustment capabilities. I turned and turned back and forth. Yes, I'll leave those brakes alone! They are perfect. This bike now sits next to the mens model I have, so it's found a mate at last. Digging through cans and boxes and getting together all the cable end pieces and now that I have sucessfully made and tested my own cables another winter project is to make gear cables using original cable housing and fittings.

   Simichrome posted by David Poston on 11/17/2002 at 11:04:29 PM
Chris,

I'll try the washer idea.

So you've discovered my secret about Simichrome, eh? I ordered mine on the internet a year or two back for cleaning up knives. Then the thought hit me--hey, I could use this on chrome! Try a yahoo search on Simichrome, it should pull up something. I think I ordered it from an antiques site, tias something or other.

David






MISC:   MEASURING FRAMES posted by: Ian on 11/15/2002 at 8:51:41 AM
Hi, I guess this has probably been dealt with before but I would like some enlightenment on how frames should be measured. Even a Kiwi can understand the difference between centre to centre and centre to top but which would the English factories have usually quoted? Also does one measure vertically from the centre of the bottom bracket or should one measure up the line of the seat tube? I had always thought one should measure straight up but if I do that then most of the bikes I have would seem to be come out as very small frames (19 to 21 inch) and I know that they are in fact quite big bikes. Most of them are old single speed English roadsters and it is obvious just by looking at them that they are big bikes so am I measuring them incorrectly? Thanks, Ian.


   RE:MISC:   MEASURING FRAMES posted by Peter on 11/15/2002 at 9:28:19 AM
Ian - the size of a conventional English bike frame is the measurement from the centre of the bottom bracket spindle to the very top of the seat tube, measured up the line of the seat tube.

   RE:RE:MISC:   MEASURING FRAMES posted by Ian on 11/15/2002 at 10:20:22 AM
Thanks for that Peter, that makes the sizing of my bikes more realistic, however I have also seen it written that one should only measure to the top of the top tube in the same way as continental measurements are done to the centre of the top tube? Further comment welcome. thanks, Ian.

   RE:MISC:   MEASURING FRAMES posted by Ben on 11/15/2002 at 12:35:23 PM
Ian, measuring method varies by framemaker. What I mean is that when Raleigh advertises bicycles as 22" they are using their convention, either Center to Center or Center to Top of seat lug.

On the other hand, when buying a bike on, let's say, ebay, you must ask the person advertising the measurement how they measured it. If you are accustomed to riding a 54cm C to T and the seller is advertising C to C measurement, add 1.5-2cm. Likewise, if you are accustomed to measuring bikes C to C, then you have to subtract from C to T measurement.

Other meaningful measurements are Top Tube length (always C to C) and standover height (ground to top of top tube).

   RE:RE:MISC:   MEASURING FRAMES posted by Michael K. on 11/19/2002 at 6:02:58 PM
Okay, you had me, then you lost me...and this is something I've also been a little confused on...

For Raleighs then, the proper way to obtain the frame measurement would be to measure from the center of the bottom bracket, to the top of the seat tube where it meets the top bar, correct?

Is the convention for American bikes, like Schwinn, the same? meaning, does a 22 in Raleigh = a 22 in Schwinn? does a 26 in Raleigh = a 26 in Schwinn?

Michael K., tape-measure in hand, scratching my head...






AGE / VALUE:   Swiss military bicycles posted by: David Poston on 11/15/2002 at 1:10:43 AM
http://secure.sovietski.com/cgi-bin/Sovietski.storefront/3dd4480f01f948dc9c4dc0a80a1206a7/Product/View/150476

Can anyone here give me some basics about Swiss military bicycles? How do they compare to their English counterparts in terms of usage and parts? I have not a doubt about the Swiss mania for quality, but could I obtain parts for this thing if I wanted? Tempting. I've always been attracted to that wartime black enameled look. I just need to don my WWI (that's right, WWI) Swiss military overcoat and helmet (I'm getting them cheap from a military surplus store online), and find a vintage machine gun. Hmmm....Now how about those nasty drivers? Who'll I take out first?

By the way, these bicycles were in use up to 1992!

David, who'd join the military if they still rode these things


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Swiss military bicycles posted by Edward in Vancouver on 11/15/2002 at 3:08:21 PM
Oh yes, they were in use up to the '90's when the army finally adapted a mnountain bike for their use. The frames are extremely well built and solid. I remember when a Pinzgauer, a 6 wheel army allterrain vehicle accidentally ran a bike over--pretlzed the wheel, but the frame was still good. The bike itself is a beast-very heavy, single speed coaster brakes, and some versions have a rod activated front spoon brake. Alot of the versions come with brazed-on mounts for the "Sturmgewehr", the all-holy Swiss-made assault rifle, and braze-ons for ammo, or radio gear. I can't recall who made the frames, or the components, but I remember the cost of replacing a bike in 1985, when I did boot camp was around Sfr 1000.00. I don't know if the PTT (swiss post office) still uses their version of these bikes, but up untill the late '80's there were alot of them about, painted bright yellow with huge front trays and swing-out kickstands. You'll see these bikes on e-bay from time to time because when a Swiss soldier is issued a bike in the army, it becomes his property after he completes all of his military and civil defense services, usually by the time he's 55. Oh yeah, and they get to keep the Sturmgewehr too...

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Swiss military bicycles posted by dafydd on 11/15/2002 at 3:32:22 PM
A short article on Swiss army bikes is found, strangely enough, on a site dedicated to off-road fixies!

http://www.63xc.com/stefs/sabike.htm






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   DBU vs FSU posted by: P.C. Kohler on 11/14/2002 at 4:33:55 PM
DBU vs FSU; no not the latest college football match, but can some please educate me as to what is the difference between a Dry Battery Unit (DBU) and a Filter Switch Unit (FSU) as fitted on Raleigh Industries cycles with dynohubs?

It may be a stupid question (well I am sure it is!), but I'm looking at the wiring diagrams from that maintenance guide and not coming to any ready conclusion. Both hold three dry cell batteries and, I presume, both are design to cut in when the machine comes to a halt or slows down. But why two different thingys and they ARE different since the wiring looks different.

P.C. Kohler


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   DBU vs FSU posted by Edward in Vancouver on 11/14/2002 at 8:29:55 PM
Good question. In Tony Hadland's book, it states that the F.S.U. is a little device fitted into the batterytube with four connections. This device supplies battery power to the lamps when the bike is stationary or traveling at speeds under 9 mph. After speeds exceeding 9 mph, the device switches over to dyno-power. I've got one on my Superbe (fitted with reflectalite halogen bulbs) and it works quite well.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   DBU vs FSU posted by Ian. on 11/14/2002 at 10:38:29 PM
My understanding has always been that the DBU is the battery holder unit itself whereas the FSU is the switching device that decides whether to run on batteries or dyno. However as both the DBU's I have come across were hooked directly to the lights it is obviously possible to run on batteries only without a FSU. Hope this makes life a little brighter for you! Cheers, Ian.

   On finding a DBU, FSU, or XYZ posted by David Poston on 11/14/2002 at 11:53:43 PM
I haven't yet worked up the courage to try hooking up a DBU, FSU, or XYZ to my rear AG dynothree hub. I think I'll find the task of hooking up a headlamp daunting enough.

But where, were I courageous enough, could I find a DBU, etc?

David

   RE:On finding a DBU, FSU, or XYZ posted by P.C. Kohler on 11/15/2002 at 12:11:13 AM
Battery cases come up regularly on eBay. Make sure they come with the bottom metal clip that holds the battery and serves as a ground. And the frame clips too. And wiring "harness". The wiring on my '51 Rudge's FSU or is it a DBU is daunting! But after 51 years all I did was to drop in three D cell batteries and it works!!! British cycles are like that.

P.C. Kohler

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   DBU vs FSU posted by Ben on 11/15/2002 at 3:40:21 AM
The Filter Switch Unit is a diode array that among other things takes dyno power above 6V and applies it to the batteries. That way, if you use rechargeable cells, they stay charged up while running.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   DBU vs FSU posted by Ben on 11/15/2002 at 12:37:37 PM
Oh, and it also serves to eliminate overpowering the bulbs at high speed...

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Shimano Nexus Dynohub posted by humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 11/15/2002 at 8:33:56 PM
Shimano Nexus Dynohub:
Would like to hear from folks who are using this. Tales of woe or happy thoughts about these.
It actually came with the instructions and the switch.
The 36 hole alloy shell scratches easily and it does not seem as smooth or frictionless as the old school Sturmey Archer ones do.
It's mm....modern!
Now I just have to choose a light to go with it and find the wiring at Radio Shack.
Any suggestions for the lights?
Anybody need an instructions sheet copy?
I think that the modern alloy shell on this is ugly but that's just me.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Shimano Nexus Dynohub posted by Chris on 11/15/2002 at 8:36:50 PM
What wheel rim put it in... Hmmm. Also will need spokes cut special too, I'll bet.
I hope I'm not disapointed with this once it's in use.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Shimano Nexus Dynohub posted by Chris on 11/16/2002 at 9:56:07 PM
Why did I get this?
He used that magic phrase, "You can't find these anymore, I went crazy waiting just for that switch and instruction packet." That also.
That basically did it for me. This was not something I had really wanted. Sure, one day I was going to get one of these. Never dreaming there would be some stupid problem in getting one. I am fine with the old school Sturmey Archer dynohubs.
Plus, I'm going to ride this thing in wheels that I have polished with Simichrome polish, too! These were supposed to be in common use. Who has decided to kill off the modern dynohub, and why?

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   DBU vs FSU posted by Scott Ebersole on 11/17/2002 at 3:48:47 PM
Peter,it probably has already been made clear but research materials I have appear to show both are D.B.U's. The one with the F.S.U. is automatic to switch between the two power sources depending on speed. The one without the F.S.U. is manually switched between the two power sources from the headlamp lever. That is the reason for the two different wiring diagrams. I will email you a copy of one of the material sources.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Elusive "Grey Grips" Inquiry posted by: Brian on 11/14/2002 at 1:08:14 PM
To list: can someone follow Tim's suggestion and investigate Ross Handling UK (et all) about getting repro-correct type grey grips for our bicycles? Perhaps Vin here knows what's involved in this procedure (number's, pre-purchases, etc.)
Would someone have to lend an original set of the grips to the manufacturer to reproduce?


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Elusive posted by P.C. Kohler on 11/14/2002 at 10:00:35 PM
Brian-- I'll get on this. Personally, I'd prefer getting these duplicated from a British firm anyway but have also sent an initial query to an Indian firm. I have those NOS stone grips coming from Cyprus which can be used as a sample. I rather suspect these are already offered though by one or more of these manufacturers. I think I'm correct these were made by Raleigh Industries in stone (grey) and a pale cream colour. Anyone seen them in black?

I'm also on the trail of an Indian supplier of Westwood rims in 26 x 1 3/8" and 28 x 1 1/2" 32/40 hole in chrome and maybe, just maybe, stainless. 32/40 hole Westricks are to be shortly available through Cycles of Yesteryear.

P.C. Kohler, with visions of setting up shop in Lenton Blvd., Nottingham amidst the rubble of the old Raleigh works...

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Elusive posted by Grey or stone? Err....Greystone? on 11/14/2002 at 11:38:55 PM
I presume you are referring to the "stone grips" which recently appeared on e-bay thanks to our Cyprus friend, CYORD? Were there some grey ones (not stone), or are grey and stone one and the same? How about black?

I recently suckered CYORD into selling me two pairs of these boxed NOS stone grips privately for GBP 20 including shipping. Not bad, eh?

David

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Elusive posted by P.C. Kohler on 11/15/2002 at 12:15:16 AM
No, David not bad indeed!!! You robbed him. I paid £12 for one pair. Hmmm.

Stone is grey; it's just a warm grey colour. Just like "white" on these is really a pale cream. Subtle. British bikes are like that too.

P.C. Kohler






AGE / VALUE:   buying parts posted by: paul v on 11/14/2002 at 9:32:00 AM
has anybody had trouble buying parts from this site.i live in australia and i find it hard to buy parts overseas.if this is a reputable site then i would love to know . thanks paul


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   buying parts posted by Stacey on 11/14/2002 at 12:05:21 PM
You won't find a more stand up guy than Vin. Buy here with confidence.






FOR SALE:   BOTTOM BRACKET TAPS AND AXLES posted by: Ian on 11/14/2002 at 8:52:23 AM
I have one set of British Bracket Taps. I presume they are 24T.P.I as they seem to fit most makes and therefore would not fit later Raleighs with the 26 thread housings. I have tried them in a Rudge, a Phillips and a Hercules. They are ex a cycle shop and have had a little extra lead ground on the front edge but the thread cutting area appears perfect and they screw into clean threads by hand. Great for cleaning out the threads after painting a frame. US$20 the pair plus postage. I also have an assortment of new cottered crank axles at US$3 each but I would need an I.D. number or exact dimensions to make sure you get the right one. Email me with an address for a postage quote. Thanks, Ian.







AGE / VALUE:   Rudge posted by: Scott Ebersole on 11/14/2002 at 4:41:08 AM
I recently bought an old Rudge for $20. It is missing several parts but it does have the Hand crank arm that polished up beautifully. The seat tube has two double gold ring decals that are above and below a Rudge decal. The front fork has stamped fork ends fitted into domed and slotted fork blades. The AW is stamped 71 but it may not be original. I never had any luck with the serial number charts. Any ideas what year range this frame could be from.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Rudge posted by P.C. Kohler on 11/14/2002 at 5:45:57 AM
Scott-- sure sounds a 1971 to me. And you're lucky to get the famous "Hand" crank; I think this was the last year it was offered. By 1973 the Rudge brand was retired. All of the Raleigh Industries machines of the era (c. 1962-1973) had those stick-on metallic bands. All of which by now are annoyingly coming off!

A Rudge of the same era resides on the street near where I live in Washington: a real "beater" with a missing front mudguard but still rolling along like a real Rudger.

P.C. Kohler

   Rudging posted by David Poston on 11/14/2002 at 11:48:18 PM
My very first British cycle, as Peter knows, is a 1972 Rudge. No "hand" in chainwheel, unfortunately, but nonetheless a lovely cycle. There's something about a Rudge. He's right about those annoying metallic sticker bands. I took them off completely with lighter fluid. It looks a lot cleaner now. By the way, Peter, I noticed the decals on my Rudge are the same as those on 1950's era Rudges. No ugly 1970's looking print as seen on a 74 Raleigh Sports (a year they must have produced tons of them for the U.S. market). Seems the Rudge line didn't change much since it was taken over by Raleigh, did it?

David






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   FYI selling AW NOS hubs ebay... posted by: Michael McGettigan on 11/14/2002 at 3:07:22 AM
FYI (if anyone cares...) 1580482856 -- that's the ebay item number for some NOS 3-spd AW hubs (40-hole, stamped '73 on shell, mint, no cog or lock ring....)
if interested, bid early and often!

cheers
McG
PS -- next GBBW in Philadelphia is 4/18-20, 2003.







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Maintenance Handbook on line posted by: P.C. Kohler on 11/14/2002 at 2:44:15 AM
Roll Britannia now has the complete Raleigh Maintenance Handbook scanned and available in the "Files" section of this Yahoo Group.

This is the classic c. 1950 handbook that came with new machines. Lovely drawings, too; and very careful to ensure an even representation of Raleigh, Rudge and Humber badges and lamp brackets!

Thanks to Max Menna for lending me this. Now we all don't have to spend the tidy sums this always attracts on eBay.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rollbritannia/

P.C. Kohler


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Maintenance Handbook on line posted by Scott Ebersole on 11/14/2002 at 4:39:31 AM
Thanks for posting that handbook and also for posting the pictures of two Raleighs I sent you. Roll Britannia is great and you have certainly helped to make it that way!

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Maintenance Handbook on line posted by Edward in Vancouver on 11/14/2002 at 5:54:54 AM
Great stuff! Hey, wasn't Chris looking for wiring diagrams for his D.F.U. a while back? There ya go, page 32 and 33. now where can I get a can of that R.I "all purpose"oil?

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Maintenance Handbook on line posted by Ed on 11/14/2002 at 2:33:26 PM
Just want to add my thanks to you and your friend Max for the posting,and thank you for introducing me to Roll Britannia.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Maintenance Handbook on line posted by P.C. Kohler on 11/14/2002 at 3:40:46 PM
You can Edward-- it's Sturmey Archer oil in different packaging! But PLEASE let's not get on another S/A oil thread!!

P.C. Kohler

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Raleigh Maintenance Handbook on line posted by Chris on 11/14/2002 at 9:24:46 PM
Believe it or not, the piece that I have is not found in the Hadland book as it is prototype and was never released.
But thanks for thinking of me.
I'm really delighted that this wonbderful little book has finally, finally made it's debut on the web. One page shows where to lubricate the bike. Gear charts, hub bearing adjustment, all sorts of info.It was not posted anyplace else so I am happy to see it at last.
P.C.'s web page is an excellent and new and welcome source of information. Keep looking it up as he's building onto it all the time.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Raleigh Maintenance Handbook on line posted by Chris on 11/15/2002 at 5:45:21 PM
Sorry for saying the Roll Britania is a web site. It is a Yahoo discussion group, at least for now.
Hopefully as things progress.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hand Grips posted by: Tim Powell on 11/13/2002 at 1:29:54 PM
Hand grips in all the shapes colours and sizes are available from; http://www.rosshandling.co.uk/handwheels.asp
OR : http://www.dialpatterns.co.uk/grips.html

If they don't have what you want then I doubt you will get them anywhere except for NOS.
Prices are very reasonable, why not suggest VVVintage get a selection and import for you.

Regards,

Tim







AGE / VALUE:   Old JC Higgins 3 spd 26 in. Mens posted by: Paul on 11/12/2002 at 10:19:45 PM
I have a mens 26in JC Higgins 3-speed touring bicycle and I was wondering if anyone can tell me what year it was made and the approximate value. I think it may be a very early Higgins. It's all original with no rust and quite good paint(deep maroon) and decals. It has the original leather seat, original working front wheel generator, head and tail light. Headlight has two settings and tail light has red glass lens. The pedals are white rubber with yellow reflector inserts. (Can't seem to find a frame pump that will fit between the arrow brackets welded on the back of the seat tube.) The bike has two aluminum eyeglass holders that are attached to the rear rack. Can send photos.
The bicycle has the following FRAME numbers:
1306553
503 46

The REAR SPROCKET is stamped with the following :
J.C. HIGGINS
50320
3-SPEED 7

Any information on age/value would be appreciated and if anyone knows of a source for a copy of the Sears Owner's Manual for the bike. Thanks! Paul


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Old JC Higgins 3 spd 26 in. Mens posted by sam on 11/13/2002 at 5:45:28 PM
I couldn't find a code for manufacture for the 503 but interestingly the 502 code is for Murray.http://www.oldwwmachines.com/Craftsman/Manufacturers-Prefix.asp

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Old JC Higgins 3 spd 26 in. Mens posted by sam on 11/14/2002 at 12:21:33 AM
A little more resurch shows that 503 were listed as Light Weight European bicycles--made in Austria