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Archived: English Roadsters







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Bottle generators and gumwall tires / Problems?????? posted by: Robert on 1/2/2002 at 5:15:14 PM
I am coonsidering putting gum wall or skin wall tireson my Dunelt. I am also going to install a bottle generator and lights. Has anyone had problems with wear on the gum or skin wall tires as a result of the generator drive wheel?

Any suggestions?

Thanks


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Bottle generators can drive you to the bottle posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 1/2/2002 at 6:24:35 PM
Don't leave Robert all alone with me! Help him! Suggestions?
There used to be rubber caps that go over the generator wheel, but where you will find one today? I dunno.
Perhaps make something that would fit over it and work? These eliminate slippage, preserves your tire from rapid death too.
This is an old problem with bottle generators. The generator wheel wearing out the tires too soon. With newer thinner sidewalls, It isn't practical anymore, ( to me) Who makes a new bottle generator? Anybody? Perhaps you can order this rubber cap from Nashbar or someone? Take a look at rechargable battery lights and Sheldon Brown's site at http://www.Sheldonbrown.com has a section on cycle lights. See what he has to say on this. The old Union lights are good. Myself, I stay away from these. You need a Dynohub for your bike.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Bottle generators and gumwall tires / Problems?????? posted by Sheldon Brown on 1/3/2002 at 2:17:24 AM
Excessive tire wear from generator us is most often a result of poor alignment. When the generator is rolling on the tire, a line extended down from the generator's axis should intersect a line extended from the wheel's axle.

If this is the case, the generator wheel will be in pure rolling contact with the tire.

If this is not the case, there'll be a verticl rubbing component to the contact, and excessive tire wear will result.

You should also make sure that it is the sides of the generator's wheel that rub on the tire, not the upper or lower corner of the wheel.

It sometimes takes a bit of fiddling to get these adjustments all correct, but if you take the trouble to do so, your tire is unlikely to die as a result of generator-related wear.

Sheldon Brown

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Bottle generators and gumwall tires / Problems?????? posted by Robert on 1/3/2002 at 3:08:34 AM
Thanks for all the info.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Bottle generators and gumwall tires / Problems?????? posted by Clyde on 1/3/2002 at 5:07:50 AM
Robert,
Maybe we can get some response from our European friends as to availability of those covers. My Austrian friends gave me one of them that's now on my commuter bike with a bottle generator. It's translucent green. However, since I don't put many nighttime miles on it, there's no way to know if the tire wear is minimized.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Bottle generators and gumwall tires / Problems?????? posted by Louis Orsini on 1/3/2002 at 7:20:25 AM
Go down to your local hardware store, Home Depot etc. and buy some sheet metal grommets. Use 5/8ths inch opening for Union and Soubitez, 3/4 for Miller. You might find that you have a choice between rubber and neoprene. Use the neoprene ones as they don't rot. I've been using these for years on a fleet of English commuters that get used everyday(night). They not only save the generator wheel (important if its a nice old Miller as replacements are hard to come by) but they also silence the generator almost completely and the slight extra diameter they impart to the generator wheel makes it drag a little less.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Bottle generators and gumwall tires / Problems?????? posted by Tom on 1/3/2002 at 2:21:09 PM
I have 2 NOS Miller generator wheels. I also have 3 others NOS 1 has no grooves where it touches the tire. They have been in a box of old parts for years. $5.00 for the lot shipped in North America. I also have a lot of clamp parts most NOS. Let me know what you need and I may have it.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Bottle generators and gumwall tires / Problems?????? posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 1/3/2002 at 3:02:21 PM
We can always count on Sheldon to keep us in alignment! Thanks

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Bottle generators and gumwall tires / Problems?????? posted by MichaelW on 1/4/2002 at 12:10:43 PM
The Nordlicht generator is available with a metal or rubber roller. It is a very good quality, efficient unit.
I mount mine on a braze-on rather than a clamp. The difference in performance is considerable.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Bottle generators and gumwall tires / Problems?????? posted by Robert on 1/5/2002 at 4:12:19 PM
I picked up the grommets mentioned above last night. Initial use indicates much smoother running of generator and VERY quite operation.
Thanks Louis for this info and to all for pitching in.






MISC:   AZ Report with Best Wishes posted by: Art on 1/1/2002 at 5:45:28 PM
Hit the streets early this morning. No traffic. Air clear and crisp. Just shorts, a cotton turtleneck and a vest. Belly full of espresso and a head full of sober. Just sailing over the canal banks and empty streets. Grateful for this bike beneath me and this list. Hope all of you have a great year. Art Smith in Phoenix.







MISC:   OIL FOR LUBRICATION posted by: Albert on 1/1/2002 at 5:19:05 PM
A few days ago a posting appeared suggesting the use of 3-in-1 Oil for cycle lubrication. Although the matter was adressed by Dale who advised against it, I would like to add emphasis and explaination.
3-in-1 Oil is vegetable oil-based and upon drying it leaves a gum-like residue that will, amongst other nasty consequences, prevent the SA pawls from functioning. Always use a mineral based oil!!!
I have seen several references to the use of sewing machine oil. Is this type of oil mineral or vegetable based?


   RE:MISC:   OIL FOR LUBRICATION posted by Bob on 1/1/2002 at 8:24:58 PM
I used the 3-1 oil to lubricate the SA AW hub on my Raleigh Superbe. So, what do I do now? How long do I have before it dries inside the hub?"

   RE:MISC:   OIL FOR LUBRICATION posted by Edward in Vancouver on 1/2/2002 at 3:24:30 AM
I second Albert's posting. As every cook knows, vegetable derived oils will gum up in a matter of days when exposed to heat and light. This leaves a very nasty sticky mess, requiring tough solvents to loosen up the gum.

   RE:MISC:   OIL FOR LUBRICATION posted by DBean on 1/2/2002 at 11:40:34 AM
Here's a link to the WD-40 website for 3-in-1 oil.

http://www.wd40.com/Brands/3in1_product_info.html

There are 2 kinds; one is regular 20 wt petroleum-derived motor oil, the other is "animal-mineral-vegetable" oil (3 in 1, get it?. Maybe vegetarians should avoid it, too.) I would guess that using regular oil after 3-in-1 shouldn't hurt anything and the addition of a non-drying oil would keep the 3-in-1 from drying up and getting gummy.

I have successfully sprayed a fair amount of WD-40 into a hub and then drained it out the hole before adding regular oil. This freed up sluggish internals and seems (so far) to work fine.

   RE:RE:MISC:   OIL FOR LUBRICATION posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 1/3/2002 at 12:48:11 AM
I take it the days of finding "Sturmey- Archer cycle oil is over? Sheldon brown had some, is he out?

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   OIL FOR LUBRICATION posted by Randy on 1/3/2002 at 2:18:39 AM
I use Phil Wood "Tenacious Oil", which is formulated to cling in a film on surfaces, instead of run off (motor oil is designed to run off surfaces, and be actively pumped through the lubrication system.) I imagine that lathe way oil (which is also made for clinging) would also work well.

   RE:MISC:   OIL FOR LUBRICATION posted by Brian Hayes on 1/3/2002 at 3:10:23 AM
3-in-1 oil IS mineral oil. According to their own MSDS, it is a "severely hydrotreated heavy naphthenic oil". I did a little research on this and have found that it differs from typical motor oils in that it comes from a different type of crude oil (much lighter). Anyway, its history is interesting in that it was originally introduced as a bicycle oil!
I have had no real experience with hubs gumming up with this stuff or any other oil, except perhaps on one '63 hub that sat for many years outside. I strongly suspect that if the hubs are regularly lubricated with this stuff, it would take a really long time before any gumminess accumulates, if at all. Does anybody have any real experience with consistent use of this oil? I personally don't use it nowadays, but I remember my Dad and I using it for all sorts of things and never experiencing any gumminess. I've re-lubricated a forty year old sewing machine that had gummed up lube (3-in-1?), and it worked fine with just replenishment.

   RE:MISC:   OIL FOR LUBRICATION posted by Brian Hayes on 1/3/2002 at 3:10:24 AM
3-in-1 oil IS mineral oil. According to their own MSDS, it is a "severely hydrotreated heavy naphthenic oil". I did a little research on this and have found that it differs from typical motor oils in that it comes from a different type of crude oil (much lighter). Anyway, its history is interesting in that it was originally introduced as a bicycle oil!
I have had no real experience with hubs gumming up with this stuff or any other oil, except perhaps on one '63 hub that sat for many years outside. I strongly suspect that if the hubs are regularly lubricated with this stuff, it would take a really long time before any gumminess accumulates, if at all. Does anybody have any real experience with consistent use of this oil? I personally don't use it nowadays, but I remember my Dad and I using it for all sorts of things and never experiencing any gumminess. I've re-lubricated a forty year old sewing machine that had gummed up lube (3-in-1?), and it worked fine with just replenishment.

   RE:MISC:   OIL FOR LUBRICATION posted by Catfood Rob on 1/5/2002 at 3:19:30 PM
Well, that`ll teach me to mention 3in1 oil, wont it......
Strangelly enough, the awt 3 speed I rode to work yesterday has been lubed since 1968 with 3in1, and has never been appart, and still shifts just fine.
Maybe we can end this topic with the quote..." some lube is better than no lube at all"






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Record Ace posted by: Ed on 1/1/2002 at 3:42:17 AM
Nice looking Raleigh Record Ace on Ebay Item # 1055521924,NOS. Happy New Year to all, Ed.







AGE / VALUE:   Frank Bowdens actual bike? posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 12/31/2001 at 9:03:22 PM
My trip to the used bookstore yielded some cool useful bike books. I saw a picture in one of them that shows Frank Bowden's bike.The very one that saved his life, and lit the fire of bicycles in his heart and he founded Raleigh bicycles and all that. Legend has it that the cycling restored his health whereas before he was all prepared to lay down and die. The bike in the picture is a highwheeler only a smaller version. I have never seen this bike in a actual picture before not even in the Raleigh book "Story of the Raleigh Cycle" So anyways, I thought I would contact the book's author if he or she is still alive and ask specifically about that picture and try to track it down. The actual bike, if it still exists could be anywhere and my guess is that it is hidden away with Bowden family or perhaps in some obscure museaum. Finding where it is today will be interesting. (probably impossible) The picture blew me away because I have never seen a snap shot of this famous bike before anywhere. Curious to know how the author got a copy of it. Is it the origonal bike? The saddle looks restored and the credits in the book are not specific enough to suit me.
I'm chasing crazy geese again!







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Mounting 26" tires / any hints?? posted by: Robert on 12/31/2001 at 7:56:58 PM
Anyone have any helpful hints on mounting 26" x 1 3/8 (590)
tires? MTB 26", 20BMX, 27" all go real easy but 26" sport tires are a pain. Always struggle with getting them mounted.
Usually it is getting the last few inches over the edge the rim that is the most struggle. Also getting those first few inches off when dismounting.

Any helpful advice much appreciated.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Mounting 26 posted by sam on 12/31/2001 at 8:19:19 PM
Do you use tire irons?

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Other tire choice for 26 X 1 3/8 posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 12/31/2001 at 9:02:47 PM
I have a odd size 650 whatever size tire that I pried onto a basic Raleigh pattern rim( 26 X 1 3/8) It works, inflates past 50 and is a cool tire to run on my Raleigh Sports. It doesn't interfere with the mudguards(fenders) either. You have to be real careful that you don't bother the wire beads and usually you can't go prying tires on like this. I was picking the brain of a shop owner and he handed me this tire, understanding that I was hoping something else might happen to fit. It is a diffrent tread pattern, newer sidewall. Perhaps it is Kevlar too. Anyways I'll take a look at it and make notes and I'll post what it is here. You guys can try it out on your Sports and Supurbes too if you like. With some hunting at local shops they are available and Sheldon has these kicking around too I'm sure.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Mounting 26 posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 12/31/2001 at 9:32:11 PM
This is how they are with the 26 inchers. You have to work it around and it pinches the fingers a bit. You can get it though! Use plastic leavers or irons only if you can't get it with your hands. You don't want to risk pinching the tube and with a metal leaver you have to be a old pro because you can cut the tube. A screw driver is out! The blue, plastic Park Tool levers are a favorite of mine. Be sure the rim strip will stay together on the rim. Cheap black plastic tire levers break off and can fly and injure you and I was sitting there wondering why I ever bought those. The blue Park Tool levers bend a bit and don't break but you don't want to be bending them if you can help it. Presta valve type tubes are best as the presta Valve is a better valve. Be sure to have the brass adaptor thingie on the valve for short bursts of air at the service station air hose or even for the carryable pumps that might not adapt for two types of valves. These are like a dollar or so. Be sure you have at least one. This is a thing to acquire while rooting thru drawers at old shops. Today they're mounted on little cards near the patches. A thinner tire gives a harsher ride and some of these gumwall tires inflate higher than others. Some up to 50 some up to 70. What I mentioned goes to 75. Good luck
Now the tire I have mounted onto my rim, the one with the mountain bike type tread, that will have to be cut off as you'll never get it removed the normal way. Stay tuned

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Mounting 26 posted by Robert on 12/31/2001 at 11:50:53 PM
Yes , I have tire irons. It is just that the last 8 - 10 inches are a real toughy to get on. Got a little too agressive with a tire iron this afternoon and ruined a heavy duty tube on it. Maybe because this is a cheap blackwall is why it is so difficult. I might have to try some of the skinwall tires next. I cam't imagime having to try and patch one of these on the road.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Mounting 26 posted by Clyde on 1/1/2002 at 12:19:11 AM
I've heard it could be done, mounting a 590 mm tire on a 597 mm rim! But now how do I get it off??? On a recent acquisition (Schwinn Breeze), the former owner shoe-horned a EA-3 tire on an S-6 rim. Although it appears to run true, it shows a little dry rot, so maybe I'll just wait till it totally fails, then cut it off!

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Mounting 26 posted by DBean on 1/2/2002 at 3:24:55 PM
Try warming the tire up in the bath tub and use some soapy water on the rim where you're trying to squeeze it over.

    700 D X 1.40 tire: Not as God intended, but it works none the less. posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 1/2/2002 at 5:32:45 PM
The other tire I have mounted onto a 26 X 1 3/8 Raleigh Pattern rim is a 700 D X 1.40 (knobbyish mountain bike type) inflates to 60, not 70 as I said earlier. I'm not sure what would happen if you pushed it up to 70 p.s.i. I have not yet used a heavy duty tube in this, but I don't see why you couldn't and then go to 70 anyways. You may be able to use this tire with a regular 26 X 1 3/8 English rim as well. Now,the Schwinn size 26 X 1 1/4 tire, I am not sure as it was never tried. I doubt it, perhaps thats pushing it, that's a diffrent size after all! One thing with this, they say you cannot go from fractions to decimals with bicycle tires as it is not interchangable. That is correct.Don't try it. But with this one quirk It is possible and I am riding it. The new bikes are using diffrent size wheels, and newer, more expensive materials. One of the upgrades one does to a old bike is replace the wheels, hubs and tires. You may want to have a bead seat tool handy to pull out the tire from sinking too deep into the rim in a spot or two while slowly inflating it. Park Tool makes this pliars type tool that fits around the tire and you pull the bead up and then inflate. This is needed unless you don't mind a slight annoying hop. I pulled this out and now it doesn't hop! This is a tight fitting tire, but won't come off and blow out, thats for sure. Great for back wheels. There may be other treads or other makers in this 700 D X 1.40 size. I have not gone looking thru other shops or catalogs and I never looked at every tire trying to play around with this further. I should have. I just fitted this at a shop and went on to other things. So other treads may be out there. I keep looking for a new mountain or hybrid bicycle tire that will fit onto a 28 X 1 1/2 Westwood Raleigh Tourist D.L.1. rim. Other sizes are close, the manufacturers flit around it closely, but not exact and you need it to be exact. I haven't seen another "new" tire "work anyways" like the other smaller size.I keep wishing. Perhaps in the future, perhaps already and I have missed it. Take a good, long look at Sheldon's "Tire and Rim Chart" at http:/www.Sheldonbrown.com
Why every bicycle shop in the country (or the whole world for that matter) doesn't have this printed up onto a neat little card on the wall for the summer help to referr to, is a mystery to me. Instead, they stumble around in Iowa going "I dunno, can you come back Thursday when my boss is in?" Sheldon could be the next "Famous Amos" with bikes instead of cookies. He's already 2/3's of the way there! I have seen shops with sharp young people who know the business as they are bike nuts and then seen folks who don't know what you are talking about and they don't even know what they hold in stock and what to do with it. I have had to say (after getting in back) "Yes you have it, I want it, please sell it to me! They look at me surprised, as we go up front to ring it up and they are saying "Gee, I didn't know we had those"

    Bicycle shop tire mart posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 1/2/2002 at 6:13:28 PM
Why are bicycle tires not out in front where the customer is? Instead of in back where you have to bother them and ask and wait while they go and look? Probably some good reasons like showrooms are for big ticket items like new bikes! Also space is limited and they can only have so many things out there and traditionally, tires are in back where they are handy for mechanics. But still, it would be easier for the customer to see the new tires. Example being, I picked up a set of lovely awesome 20.00 per tire 27 X 1 1/4 white wall blue/ green tread "made in Thailand" 120 p.s.i. tires! I would never have seen these if I hadn't gotten in back. Now if these were out front? Hey! They might sell more tires. It makes it more easier especially with customers who know what they would like, if they see it. I make a pain of myself and beg to go with them back into the "forbidden back room" workshop and I get to look while they work on something and keep an eye on me the whole time. Usually with a employee that knows me and not the owner(owners can be a pain, they say "No"sometimes and thankfully, not always are in when I stop by. Sometimes they are and that's ok if they know and like you. If I have romanced them already then it's cool. I have romanced my share of owners,it takes time and work you gotta spend in the shop and get a cool fellow not some idiot. It's really necessary if you are going to get access to see and possibly shop thru, the stash. They have to know you or don't even bother asking. A stranger is a security risk and we don't want to make anybody uncomfortable or cause some employee to lose his or her job. Can you schmooze?
You aren't going to really see the new line of incoming stuff or really understand what all they can offer you/order for you if you don't see the dealer book/catalog they have on hand and sometimes, all you are allowed to see are the actual assembled bikes on the shop floor.However a good salesperson usually will show you the dealer books today, especially if you are going to order something like an appropriatly sized frame. This varies from shop to shop at least, it used to. There's more than one brand of or type of 27 X 1 1/4 th size tire available for that lightweight bike! Rims too.
Theres a knobby 27 X 1 3/8 tire that will fit onto a 27 X 1 1/4 rim. You have to look for it, but it's out there.

Go from a regular shop to the section at a chain store and, good God! The loss of selection, parts, experienced help is incredible. There's only one tire in each size (if you are lucky) and that's it. The person ringing it up does not know bikes at all, nor do they care. Don't buy a bike anyplace but a real shop. The cheap bikes at chain stores are killing the shops and then where will we be then?

   Buy a set! posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 1/2/2002 at 11:46:06 PM
Well, those lovely tires that jumped into my hands and sweetly called out saying "Buy Me!" are: Vittoria Competition Phoenix 32 27 X 1 1/4 32-630 Kevlar 3-D compound. Try a set today! Vittoria, such a nice name too!






AGE / VALUE:    posted by: Ryan on 12/31/2001 at 6:01:24 PM
Hi everyone. I was wondering if I could call on some of your expertise out there to help me identify a family bike. I have tried to research it but could only get so far by surfing the internet. What we know is that a sticker on it says Rudge-Whitworth, Established 1869, Nottingham, England. You probably know all of that though. Using some of the info on this site we were able to make out what looks like "turmey" etc. on the rear axle and so determined that may be "Sturmey Archer" that some of you refer to. It also says 68-9 right near there also. Is this the date of manufacture and if so is that just the wheel or the whole bike? It also says it is a 3-speed. Furthermore, where we found this info is what we thought could be considered the rear hub, but we could use some clarification as to what exactly the rear hub is?? Finally I realize the serial number would probably be of help but I was unable to locate one. Any suggestions? We would like to know a little about the bike's history as well as value. The bike is in decent/used shape. Any help is greatly appreciated as it is probably now known that my knowledge of the subject is not exactly vast. Thanks and have a great New Year!!!


   RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by sam on 12/31/2001 at 8:35:20 PM
Rudge was taken over by raleigh.The seral number should be near the seat on the down tub.Please tell us a little more about the bike.Like wheel sizs(look on the tires)what type of brakes does it have(are the operated with levers or do they use cables?)Boys or Girls bike?The rear hub is the part in the middle of rear wheel and your bike should be a 1968.Rudge are real good bikes,enjoy it.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:Rudge Sports    posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 12/31/2001 at 9:58:50 PM
Rudge was taken over by Raleigh by this time as Sam said. This means that it's a Raleigh looking bike. Slightly diffrent than what an origonal Rudge was. This is a Raleigh with another name on it. Tell them it's a Raleigh Sports badged up as a Rudge. It probably say's Rudge Sports and in that case shop folk will know what you have. The only diffrence was a "Rudge hand" in the chainwheel, Rudge decals and badge.
The Sturmey-Archer hub is usually a basic A.W.3 speed model. By 1968, that's gonna be all you will find, at least in the Rudge. A good reliable hub that as long as it is set up(adjusted) right and you keep an eye on it's adjustment and you oil it occaisonally with a few drops of sewing machine oil, It'll last a long time. This a a commuter bike, a city bike, a around- town bike. Stay on the seat, don't get up and pedal while standing. These are great hubs and simple to adjust but if it is out of adjustment it can go into a neutral or no- gear position and the pedals will freewheel around, not engaging any gear and if you are a- standing up you can come down onto the top bar of the bike and this is painful for ladies and gents alike. To check alignment of the hubs gears, you put the shifter into 2 nd or middle gear (same thing) Then you look to see that the end of the rod,( right before the rivits start) is at the end of the axle. There is a line on the indicator chain thing. (Rod with links that threads into the hub's inner workings.) this line adjusts to be at the end of the axle shaft while it is in 2 nd gear. You turn the little wheel thingie to adjust it and you tighten it down to set it. It should go into each gear properly. Replacement gear cables are sold here! As are brake cables and other parts that before took looking for are sold here! go to top of this page. The indicator chain should be tighten or screwed all the way into the hub's axle and then backed off a half turn so that it can meet up with the cable. Like I said earlier, go to you used book shop or a library and look for 1960's 1970' era books that take you all thru this stuff. Books telling it nearly all are there for like 5.00 dollars.
No "skipping" alowed when it comes to this hub! if it does, there could be something else amiss like cone adjustment. We're here to help if you need us.What color? please describe the bike better for us.






AGE / VALUE:   I'm comming to join you, Elizabeth! Hit the mother load. posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 12/30/2001 at 8:09:24 PM
He said Yea, "I have that." He pulled it out of the drawer and handed it to me. My heart jumped and I had to quickly sit down and took a breath. My quest for this special tool at a quick end. Done! After 15 friggin years!! all those shops, paper flyers, talking about it. Now what else? Chris, I'm gonna require smelling salts,C.P.R.and medical care as I'm likely to go into shock at the sights. It is shaping up to be the treasure filled cave underneath the Addams Family house. This time I'm getting in without a problem. Planets are aligned. Easily the greatest hoard I'll ever see and get to shop thru. I freeze up and don't know where to start. My left arm will go numb, ears ringing, I'll pass out, pass away right there and never get to take it out of the boxes.Never to get it mounted on the bike. I never thought I would reach the end of my searching, but bikewise I'm gonna be given to chance to ride up to heaven in the golden chariot without even dying. I will get pictures taken if it is possible. The finest hour is still ahead, if I manage to live thru it all. Wheres the Simplex drawer in all the treasure filled kingdom? Boxed sets? Oh Mercy, my heart. In "Little Nemo in Slumberland" Flip calls in the "High Price Ice Co" and they take pick axes and dissemble and remove Jack Frost's Ice palace. That's the job ahead of me here. Full report to be posted soon.


   RE:AGE / VALUE: I'm comming to join you, Elizabeth! A rented truck filled with cycle parts! posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 12/30/2001 at 9:00:54 PM
Yes, mention was made of some things being thrown out for lack of wharehouse space years and years ago. Still to have 90 % of it survive until today is marvelous.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   I'm comming to join you, Elizabeth! Hit the mother load. posted by sam on 12/31/2001 at 2:32:21 PM
Now thats what I call a NEW YEARS EVE PARTY!Congr.Chris.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   I'm comming to join you, Elizabeth! Hit the mother load. posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 12/31/2001 at 5:29:33 PM
I mentioned fenders or mudguards as we call them and he laughed like a crazed hyeena. Seems they have a ton of near worthless mudguards for cheap old American balloon tire bikes. New in boxes. I hope to see it and wonder what I should do.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   I'm comming to join you, Elizabeth! Hit the mother load. posted by sam on 12/31/2001 at 8:26:26 PM
What ever you do,don't tell this guy about EBAY!(LOL)(Chris check out the rickshaw on ebay#1054241386)






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   What does 2X mean on tires? posted by: Paul on 12/30/2001 at 2:24:21 AM
What does 2X mean at the end of a tire size.? Will a pair of 20 x 1.75 x 2x Raleigh NOS whitewall tires fit on my 20x1.75 1972 Raleigh folder bike? What were these WW tires sold by Raleigh originally found on...Chopper, Folders,???? Thanks.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   What does 2X mean on tires? posted by sam on 1/1/2002 at 3:52:06 PM
2 ply






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   2 Rudge's posted by: Andrew on 12/29/2001 at 5:44:19 PM
To anyone near Essex, MA. His & hers Rudges circa 1970? for sale at White Elephant Antique outlet on Rt. 133 marked 75% off $200 each = $50 each. There in nice shape, complete and have Dynohubs w/ lights, leather saddles, ect. A nice pair for $100. Shop open weekends.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   2 Rudge's posted by Warren on 12/29/2001 at 7:30:28 PM
A nice deal...how it should be.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   2 Rudge's posted by DBean on 12/30/2001 at 11:10:33 PM
Thanks for the tip. I bought 'em. I expect one will be for sale soon.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   2 Rudge's posted by: Andrew on 12/29/2001 at 5:44:19 PM
To anyone near Essex, MA. His & hers Rudges circa 1970? for sale at White Elephant Antique outlet on Rt. 133 marked 75% off $200 each = $50 each. There in nice shape, complete and have Dynohubs w/ lights, leather saddles, ect. A nice pair for $100 Shop open weekends.







AGE / VALUE:   Rod brake spring posted by: Ed on 12/27/2001 at 8:34:08 PM
Hi everyone,I need a left hand return spring for the rod brake on a 70s vintage Raleigh DL1.Please contact me if anyone has one for sale. Thanks and happy holidays,Ed.







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Breaking-in period for S.A. hubs? posted by: Edward in Vancouver on 12/27/2001 at 3:56:41 AM
Can any of the more mature people out there rememember what a brand new FG (or any 4 speed hub) sounded like right out of the box? The FG I've built into a wheel is a N.O.S. (7'54). It made a slight scratching noise when I was building the wheel. At first I thought something wasn't right and diss-asembled it. All the pawls were as they should, there was the cardboard disk inbetween the magnet and armature, and all the bearings, retaining rings, and dust caps were new anyway. The hub came without any oil, so I poured about 2 tablespoons(S.A. oil from Sheldon!) inside before I sealed it up. Cone adjustment was good, but the slight scratching noise is still there, albeit quieter. The hub shifts wonderfully, but I'm hesitant to put any mileage on it before I figure out the noise. Is this noise due to new parts, or did I butter-finer something up?







FOR SALE:   ENGLISH TRANSFERS - sorry decals you guys call them posted by: Ian on 12/26/2001 at 7:55:50 AM
Hi, A few days ago I posted a listing of English water slide transfers I have surplus of for Raleigh and Phillips of various models. It seems that nobdy wants to buy a quantity eveyone wants just one or two so here is the deal :- 1 transfer will be US$3.00 including postage, each additional one will be US$1.00. Have a look at the earlier posting to see if I have what you need and then email me. I am too lazy after a big feed to type the list again! I guess this way will mean more trips to the Post Office but I will probably make more money in the long run. Cheers, Ian. P.S. I can take Cash, Money Orders, Paypal and Bidpay but not cheques. Regards.







FOR SALE:   NOS English Fenders posted by: Rick on 12/24/2001 at 7:26:51 PM
I have some NOS pairs of English Lightweight fenders. Some have
attached painted braces and some have chrome wire braces. I
have chrome braces and braces that look to be ready for the chromer.
Raleigh, Phillips, Denault, Hercules, Rocket are the fenders that I have. Some
are mint and some have shop wear. If anybody is interested, e-mail me!
The colors are gold, blue, black and burgundy.