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Archived: English Roadsters







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Sturmey Archer Drum Brake Hub posted by: Tom on 3/6/2002 at 5:14:18 AM
Does anyone know what this Sturmey Archer hub is on Ebay. It has a chainring on the spoke flange. Could this be a factory setup? Maybe a hub for a 3 wheel bike. The second gear would be the chaindrive for the rear axle. I have not seen one like this before. Sheldon help me out. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1080087214&r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=1015791496&indexURL=0&rd=1


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Sturmey Archer Drum Brake Hub posted by Peter on 3/6/2002 at 7:13:32 AM
I saw something very similar recently which was an adaption to the transmission of a trike conversion. So far as I know S-A did not produce anything like that, and the sprocket or ring looks to be far more modern than the hub. The spoke holes can be used for rivetting to, without having to drill them out.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   cycle computers posted by: Edward in Vancouver on 3/5/2002 at 2:38:45 PM
Just got a new computer for my road bike, and I want to put my old computer, (Cateye Vectra) on my Raleigh. Problem is, what's the proper setting for a 26 13/8" wheel? The default for the Vectra is a 3 digit number, 216, I assume is for a 700 size wheel. The new computer manual givs a 4 digit number for a 26 13/8 wheel. Anybody have an old bike computer pamphlet I can refer to?


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   cycle computers posted by Mark R. on 3/5/2002 at 3:39:21 PM
Remove the battery, and measure the wheel circumfrence in centimeters (2.54 per inch) by putting a chalk mark on the tire, and then rolling it across the room, measure the beginning of one mark to the beginning of the next, then input that number after you reinstall the batteries. That should have you good to go.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   cycle computers posted by Ed on 3/5/2002 at 4:04:17 PM
Cateye EnduroII calls for a setting of 207 for 26x13/8 wheels,probably the same for Vectra. Mark's method is probably more accurate,however if you choose his method measure the distance in centimeters of one complete revolution of the wheel. I was a little confused by across the room,but I'am probably getting senile. Cheers, Ed.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   cycle computers posted by Mark R. on 3/5/2002 at 5:39:37 PM
YES! Ed is right. I meant to measure only ONE revolution of the wheel, but worded it wrong. When the computer first comes on after you reinstall the battery, you should be able to input the number by using the buttons to go up or down. You will find that the milage is almost exactly perfect compared to roadside milage markers if you set it this way.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   cycle computers posted by Clyde on 3/6/2002 at 2:35:07 AM
Check out Cateye's website for the manuals and calibration info.

http://www.cateye.com/support_man.htm

Once after a Lancaster County PA bike tour, I e-mailed Cateye for information on whether Cateye had a standard conversion factor for an Amish buggy wheel. Their response was a rather terse instruction to use the roll-out measurement. While admiring a buggy on that trip, I thought it was amazing that an Amish teenager had outfitted it with a Cateye computer! Top speed?

Cheers.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   cycle computers posted by Edwrd in Vancouver on 3/6/2002 at 2:58:26 PM
Thanks for all the info everybody. Now all I have to do is wait until the rain stops here on the we(s)t coast so I can find out what how fast I can ride ....

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   cycle computers posted by Dale on 3/6/2002 at 5:00:52 PM
Got a tape measure (or a yardstick and patience)? I did a ten-turn rollout and divided by 10, and the number was off by one or two from my single-turn rollout. Just suggesting that it's more accurate that way.






AGE / VALUE:   Hub AG Sturmey Archer posted by: AG Hub Sturmey Archer year 53, Mon 8, on 3/5/2002 at 6:07:43 AM
I save this hub off a 53 Rudge. The frame and the fenders were gone, rust right through.If anybody needs parts please email me ok. Thanks! From Flavio


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Hub AG Sturmey Archer posted by Tom on 3/6/2002 at 6:04:07 AM
Flavio I am interested in the hub and parts. Could you email me. I could not get your email to come up.






AGE / VALUE:   Vintage Raleigh on Ebay posted by: Tom on 3/5/2002 at 2:29:21 AM
There is a nice Raleigh on ebay now. http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1521005017 The bike is all original looking and has rod brakes, AW 3 speed and the old top bar shifter. Is this a 1958 by the serial# or older by the shifter. The shifter looks like a pre 50's but the AW is not that old. Anyone able to help out on this one. Did AW hubs have only 1 number on the very early ones.







AGE / VALUE:   1930's ?? Raleigh Sports posted by: karl on 3/5/2002 at 12:32:10 AM
I recently found an old raleigh sports. I have done a bit of research and found it has a "k" series SA rear hub. Making it 1930's...I think. Also front and rear are drum brake, enclosed chain case, 26" wheels, orig. pump, funky jeweled genertor lights, says "raleigh sports model" on down tube. Anyone have a guess as to the value. Any info would be appreciated. Also I cannot remember where I found all the info on Stumey Archer hubs. Thanx







AGE / VALUE:   1930's ?? Raliegh Sports posted by: karl on 3/5/2002 at 12:32:10 AM
I recently found an old raliegh sports. I have done a bit of research and found it has a "k" series SA rear hub. Making it 1930's...I think. Also front and rear are drum brake, enclosed chain case, 26" wheels, orig. pump, funky jeweled genertor lights, says "raleigh sports model" on down tube. Anyone have a guess as to the value. Any info would be appreciated. Also I cannot remember where I found all the info on Stumey Archer hubs. Thanx


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   1930's ?? Raliegh Sports posted by Edward in Vancouver on 3/5/2002 at 2:49:00 PM
Sounds like you've got a real nice find. I'm curious about those drum brakes, are they cable operated or rod operated?
And the chainwheel, is it stamped with Herons, or with another pattern? If you could get pictures posted on this site it would be great, not too many '30's bikes yet.
Regards, Edward in Vancouver

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   1930's ?? Raliegh Sports posted by Geoff Rogers on 3/6/2002 at 8:44:24 PM
I have a very similar bike. Mine is a 1935 (I think) Raleigh Dawn Tourist Model 19X. The "X" means drum brakes. Mine, too, has an enclosed gearcase, a KB rear hub, top tube-mounted shifter, an "L"-shaped seat post, and a glass rear fender reflector. Very cool and interesting, but it doesn't ride as well as my later sports bikes, sadly.
As to value, mine is original and un-messed-with, but the paint is not perfect and the rims are kinda rusty. I am guessing it's worth a couple hundred dollars. Anybody know different?
The number on the hub tells the year of manufacture. Mine says "KB5", or 1935 K-type with hub brake.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   1930's ?? Raliegh Sports posted by Geoff on 3/6/2002 at 8:47:22 PM
I forgot to mention, my Dawn has rod-operated brakes. I took them apart and cleaned up the shoes and drums, but they are still, quite frankly, terrible. The good news is, they don't get any worse when they are wet (unlike my other rod brake bikes with rim brakes)! One advantage of this type of brake is they don't wreck the rim chrome. Unless you run into something and bend the rim because the brakes are so lousy, that is.....






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:    posted by: Drew on 3/4/2002 at 10:27:07 PM
I'm looking for opinion's on the Brooks B130 saddle, is this the most comfortable seat by Brooks, with all those springs, I think it would be. Noticed that the B90/3 is larger in it's dimensions though, feedback helpful.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:    posted by Jeff R on 3/5/2002 at 1:40:41 AM
I use the B33. It is very comfortable. The seat is smaller version of the B90/3 but a little bigger than the B66. If you want a smaller seat the B73 is the same size as the B66 but has a front spring. I found the B90/3 to be too large. I have never tried a B130. I think the B130 is the same size as the B33,but with more springs.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:    posted by David on 3/6/2002 at 11:58:33 AM
Check the Persons-Majestic web site (Brooks distributor) for pictures of the different models www.permaco.com






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Pushing the envelope posted by: Edward in Vancouver on 3/4/2002 at 3:27:23 PM
A while back I had some success in converting a 4 speed hub to an 8 speed, by adding two cogs on to the splined driver. Recently I've had the good fortune to get my grubby hands on a threaded driver, and this opens up alot of possibilities. I've found a 5 cog thread-on Regina cogset and an ancient 5 cog Shimano thread-on cogset which will fit the S.A. threaded driver. Has anyone had experience making such a conversion? Will there be enough room for all those cogs? I plan to put the cogset on my trusty FG hub, which has a 61/4" axle, and mount the wheel on a '50's Raleigh Sports. Any suggestions out there?


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Pushing the envelope posted by Bill Putnam on 3/4/2002 at 5:28:29 PM
Sheldon Brown has managed to fit 7 sprockets onto an AW
hub, but countersunk a hole into the derailler adaptor
claw and beleved the axle nut to do it. Also, his largest
sprocket is mounted to the left of the original large
sprocket on the Sun Tour freewheel.

http://sheldonbrown.org/otb.html

Personally, my suggestion would be to modify two Shimano
freehub sprockets to fit a later style driver and be
satisfied with either 8 speeds, or 16, or 24 depending
on whether you put on a dual or triple front chainring.
Replacement FG/S5 axles are very difficult to find, and
adding this much unsupported length would could comprimise
the durability of the axle, IMHO.

Bill Putnam






AGE / VALUE:   Unidentified english 3 speed posted by: Frank on 3/4/2002 at 6:00:27 AM
I recently rescued several leftover bikes from our local fireman's cheer fund that were on their way to the dump. One of those has me quite curiuos. It looks like a Raleigh to me, but I have absolutely no experience with British bikes. It has been repainted, so there's no decals left and the headbadge is MIA as well, so n ohelp identifying it there. It's got a lugged frame with the serial # located on the seat lug. I don't have the serial # handy, but will post it if it would make identifying it easier. It has rear dropouts that look exactly like the Raleigh dropouts pictured on Sheldon Brown's website, with the fender bolts directly behind the axle slots. It's got a nicely shaped cottered crankset with a chainring having an alternating 3 spoke design. It's got a Sturmey rear hub that's a 3 speed coaster brake model, and it has a 1961 date. The front hub has a cone on one side that tightens down against a stop on the axle, and the other cone has a wheel retention device on it the slips into the hole in the fork. It has an oil cup on the bottom bracket. It has a Messinger seat, and on the seat post there is a tiny "R" in side of a sheild. The fenders have raised ridges throughout the length, and the front has a little chrome bullet on the tip. When I got it, it had Schwinn handle bars and grips, but I suspect that these aren't original. The brake lever is an odd steel thing, with a hinged cable holder that looks similar to what's on modern V brake levers. It only has a front hand brake, and the caliper says "made in england", and the pads say "John Bull" and "Made in England". It has a partial chain gaurd with a decal that says "Vangaurd", and behind it on the chainstay is a braze on for something, presumeably a full chain cover. It also has a rear rack that's made of stamped sheet metal that says "Presstube Minor". The rims also say "Dunlop" and Made in England. Can anybody tell me what I have? Is it a Raleigh? Thanks in advance for any help!


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Unidentified english 3 speed posted by Warren on 3/4/2002 at 1:30:44 PM
Raleigh it is...probably a Sports model from 61 with a few swapped parts. I think I read that Schwinn made some SA three speed bikes but that frame is definitely a Raleigh. It likely had a hockey stick chainguard even though it has the mounting position for the enclosed case. The chainring is not the Raleigh standard but they had different types for rebranded bikes. Yours sounds like one of them. One thing that may make it unusual is the size of the wheels. EA3's are the standard 590mm or 26 X 1 3/8. EA1's are the 597mm or 26 x 1 1/4 size found on club bikes. Club bikes are rarer.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Unidentified english 3 speed posted by Frank on 3/4/2002 at 5:39:50 PM
The wheels are 26x1 3/8". The chaingaurd is a "hockey stick" type, and it has a decal on it that says "Vangaurd". Is this a Raleigh model name? It's definantly a neat bike. I put a chain on it today and rode it around the block. It rides great! I'm definitely going to be on the lookout for more of these now. Definitely a sweet ride. Thanks for your help Warren.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Unidentified english 3 speed posted by Warren on 3/4/2002 at 8:26:14 PM
Vanguard is likely the name given by the aftermarket distributer. Here in Canada, Supercycle and Glider were both companies who slapped their own labels and names on Raleigh bikes and sold them as their own. One other indication of this reselling is the use of thick wire fender stays instead of the stamped/painted ones that Raleigh used.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Unidentified english 3 speed posted by Frank on 3/5/2002 at 5:53:00 AM
The fenders are quite nice. As previously stated, they have a raised ridge rolled into their entire length. The front has a little chrome bullet thing at the tip, and the rear has a reflector on the end, and the end of it is white. The rest of the fender is black. The stays on the fender are quite heavy duty, having a half circle cross section and being solid, not stamped sheet steel or wire. Thanks again for the info!

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Unidentified english 3 speed posted by Warren on 3/6/2002 at 12:03:02 AM
Actually I mean't rolled, or is it formed?.I guess I'm not exactly sure of the process. Stamped is generally cheap quality. Anyway, you've got the good ones that usually appear on the Raleighs.






AGE / VALUE:   Ladies DL turned into Gents DL-1 posted by: Mark R. on 3/3/2002 at 8:24:14 PM
Well, I finally got around to reassembling the Ladies roadster as a gents DL-1 and all in all it turned out fairly well. No one would ever think a thing amiss with the bike as a gents model since all the parts are the same. It even is too highly geared, just like my other DL-1. I took a ride, and it is exactly like my DL-1. Duh...... I think that even if I were to sell it in the future, I would not be doing anyone a dis-service. The rims are crappy though, and I have a set comming from a guy out West, so it'll be a reasonable bike when I get that done, and I repaint the fenders er..mudguards. But, I have a question: The indicator chain on the hub is not the same as on every other SA hub I've ever had. You have to set it so that the end of the shaft is even with the end of the axle when it is in HIGH gear or it simply won't function. When you set it as I said in HIGH gear it works exactly correctly. Is this an odd ball hub? Or, what?


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Ladies DL turned into Gents DL-1 posted by OOOPPPSSS!!! on 3/4/2002 at 3:13:50 PM
Sorry, I meant LOW gear. I have to set it to LOW gear, and the shaft even with the end of the axle to make it function properly.
Thanks,
Marko

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Ladies DL turned into Gents DL-1 posted by Bill Putnam on 3/4/2002 at 5:35:30 PM
It is not uncommon for incorrect length indicators to
be found in used hubs. Depending on the axle length and
model of hub, Sturmey made different length indicators
to suit.

The way I adjust an AW hub is to set the shift cable
so that in low gear, all slack is taken up at the indicator.
(i.e. a light tug on the shift cable will provide no
additional movement of the indicator rod.

This eliminates issues with incorrect indicator rod lengths.

A 22 or 24 tooth rear sprocket will get the gearing to a
more useful range. Check your local bike shop for one or
go to Harris Cyclery http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/sturmey.html
if you can't find one locally. You will likely need a new
chain as well.

Bill Putnam






AGE / VALUE:   Just screwing up! That what! Snoozed and lost posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 3/3/2002 at 6:55:36 PM
I am failing "Estate sale 101!" I am not getting there first, I am just not doing it properly, I miss many of them and when I do go I wind up there late and then it's all picked over! I saw this sale yesterday in a marvelous old cool as all get out 40's deco home. All that was left was one 26 X 1 3/4 Schwinn Typhoon Cord tire (blackwall, I know) slightly used for $3.00. They said "Oh, there were bikes! They had old bikes, a lot of bikes." When I saw that tire and the bicycle pump I knew I had missed out and screwed up. There is no such excuse for this rotten performance, I seem to be getting more stupid, forgetting all I have learned, fat and complacent too. Just plain going backwards. This is a race, you gotta be sharp! passonate, agressive, make those contacts, keep looking. I scoured the garage looking for what the lucky new old- bike owners might have missed like oil cans, tools. No such luck. Now the fluke was that when I moaned aloud this old guy buying old wood was there to hear me and he gave me his number because HE HAS OLD BIKES TOO!!! So there is a silver lining to it but still. I am just going to have to do better that's all there is to it. I shivered with horror at looking thru the wonderful garage, this 1950-s time capsule, what I missed out must have been way cool. Another mess up is that I forgot the number on the table when I paid them for the tire. I checked to see if I had it and then I rushed back. Lucky me it was there. I call him in three days as he asked me to. My mentor got all crabby, rude and disrespectful. He told me he expects to hear about a sucessful hunt and see the bike- booty not some lame "I got there too late garbage" I will re- double my efforts.

Once I went to 32 sales in one day, tired, hungry, eyes all glossy, in a daze. At the last sale I struck out and was walking to the car when I looked up and saw another sale across the street. Yes, there was a bicycle, a old, wonderful bike, cheap, valuable, tricked out with old collectible mirrors. I had hit pay dirt. I bought it!! Yea! My friends were saying "Well, done!" I ate and slept. I need to be hungry like that again! That tired, unshaven, hungry, wacked- out, bike collector at your next garage sale is gonna be me. I'll point to the Chopper or D.L.1. and I'll be asking you to take it down because "I want that!"







AGE / VALUE:   1951 Rudge Whitworth English posted by: Flavio Figliola on 3/3/2002 at 5:04:55 AM
i own a 1951 Rudge, it has everthing, head lamp, rear light leather saddle tool bag thick handle bar grips like a rudge motorcycle does, locking front forks , dynohub in rear wheel opposite side of rear hub gear box, chaincase, michelin zig zag tires, bike is coffee color, this bike was fished out of a recycling yard i got there just before it was gonna be crushed it to pieces(does any body have an idea what this bike is worth i,ve be researching on the net and have,nt come up with anything.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   1951 Rudge Whitworth English posted by David on 3/3/2002 at 2:27:44 PM
It all depends on its condition; if it looks ratty, you might only find a buyer for $25 or so. If it's like new, you might find someone willing to pay 10 times that or more. And that's in the USA - if someone has to pay shipping cost on top of it, you might have to pay them to take it!






AGE / VALUE:   universal cruiser-made in poland posted by: matt on 3/3/2002 at 12:43:11 AM
I just purchased a bicycle today, serial number 4729245. The badge on it says that it was made in poland, by the manufacturer Universal. The model is "Cruiser". Any info on this bike would be greatly appreciated.







AGE / VALUE:   When did Raleigh(England) start using foreign parts? posted by: Paul on 3/2/2002 at 2:35:56 PM
Does anyone know when Raleigh of Nottingham started using foreign components such as Suntour brakes and other Japan components? I recently purchased an original Raleigh with an 1980 SA Nottingham hub but most of the rest of the bike appears made of foreigh components. What year did the totally made in England like stop being made? Thanks.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   When did Raleigh(England) start using foreign parts? posted by Sheldon Brown on 3/2/2002 at 5:29:43 PM
As far as the upper end models, I believe it started around 1970, with non-rebuildable Union pedals. Also around this time, Dunlop bicycle tires became unavailable, so various foreign suppliers were used.

Foreign parts were used earlier on lower-end models, specifically brakes.

Sheldon Brown
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772, 617-244-1040 FAX 617-244-1041
http://harriscyclery.com
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   When did Raleigh(England) start using foreign parts? posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 3/2/2002 at 6:51:15 PM
Well said!
Who would think that those sintered bearing Union pedals from Germany would be origonal to the Raleigh Chopper and that people would pay up to $90.00 for a set of them on e- bay? Reading old C.T.C. magazines I see article after article from readers who wrote in to complain about the sintered bearings and they moaned about the loss of the conventional pedal. It was not a well recieved change at the time. For a lot of us it is all we know, all we have ever seen on the Raleigh bikes. Roadsters,kids bikes, the Sports and Supurbe bikes everything except the 10 speed models.

Myself, I like the older re-buildable ones but those don't sell so high as what the Chopper folks are looking for. Soon, Raleigh made alloy kickstands,pedals,British made tyres and the whole huge assortment of British made parts dissapeared. Today it is barely a shadow of what it once was. I was told that every year Raleigh would squeeze Dunlop over prices and finally it got so bad that Dunlop
said it wasn't worth it. If you went back in time and stoped people as they heaved out whole lofts of old parts and told them that 30 years into the future it would be worth surprisingly amounts of money they probably would not believe you. It would be the last thing they would want to hear and they might as say "Well, what am I to do with it now?" "We need the space and you go tell my boss what you said!!"

Sorry, I just can't get over it. They pay 35.00 for a pair of Raleigh R nuts!!


If you read old bicycling magazines, you will run across a bike article written by Sheldon from time to time.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   When did Raleigh(England) start using foreign parts? posted by Catfood Rob on 3/2/2002 at 8:32:53 PM
35 cents for r nuts???? get me some!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Its not all bad... the 5/16 r nut off the seatclamp is usually only a few dollars.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   When did Raleigh(England) start using foreign parts? posted by David on 3/3/2002 at 2:32:41 PM
I shopped for a "good" bike in about '76 and I noticed that most of the Raleigh 10-speed models (except for the top-of-the-line ones) in the shops had Japanese components while the catalog I received (and still refer to) showed them with European components.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh 26" rod-brake on ebay posted by: David on 3/2/2002 at 12:45:09 PM
NMA: item # 1078449555 is a 26" Raleigh w/rod brakes and dynohub. Looks kinda rough.