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Archived: English Roadsters







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Sometimes it happens! posted by: Peter on 6/19/2002 at 2:09:51 PM
Have to share my luck with you... went to the public waste disposal site on Sunday to check for old bikes...been going for about 3 years... walked over to where the bikes are dumped when a chap practically pushed past me to dump most of a roadster at my feet.
A quick look, check the AW and it's a 1953 Humber, ladies frame, split front forks. I ask did he bring it all and yes, he had, but taken some bits off to get it in the car. I looked round with the site operator and soon had all but the pedals.
Took it home, put it together and there it is, rod brakes, front Dynohub, hockey stick chain guard, 26" Raleigh rims. Well maintained, heavily used, tons of character. Even had vintage air in the tyres.
That is my 5th bike...my wife just sighs now when another one arrives. Thanks for the site, enjoy it very much, Pete.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Sometimes it happens! posted by Fred A on 6/19/2002 at 5:11:03 PM
Nice find! And what a price!!

Tell your wife it's okay at 5 bikes. Pity my poor wife...I'm down to 35 from a high of 54. (When the disease hits, it hits hard and takes no prisoners!!) Yet she'll be the first to point one out at a garage sale if she sees one I might like. God Bless Her!!!

Fred

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Sometimes it happens! posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 6/19/2002 at 7:50:18 PM
Tell your wife that the Humber bikes with the special Humber double/split fork are rare. I saw a ad for one in New York and they wanted $450.00 plus shipping for the bike. It was complete and in great shape and with the dynohub generator kit with the D.B.U. but still $450.00! This WAS a ladies frame!
A much better find than a Raleigh or Rudge. That fork is bitchin cool, and a great conversation starter. If you ever bend the steer tube and bend the fork, don't toss it out. Keep it as you can repair a bent steer tube and the Raleigh fork you cannot repair it but instead you have to replace it. How do you bend a steer tube you might ask? If you crash the bike or if you are too heavy for the bike or due to mishap.
I have four machines with this type fork and I have folks ask if I want to sell it. Other Humber- loving- collector- types( like me and worse) folks are about and they look for machines with this fork too.
Well done and go bach to this dump and look for more goodies!

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Sometimes it happens! posted by Chris on 6/19/2002 at 7:51:57 PM
Exploded diagrams that show your bike are in the resources section here at oldroads.com and the parts they sell here, we are lucky they are offered and Oh Yes, Sheldon Brown.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh DL-1... A New High!? posted by: Fred A on 6/19/2002 at 3:14:14 AM
Well, I can't believe it. The Raleigh DL-1 I was watching on ebay ended at $560!!!!!!! Of course, the bike looked virtually like it had just come out of the box, but that has to be an all time high. Gorgeous looking piece of art.

P.C. Don't forget to let everyone know how you make out with the boys in brown at UPS. I've had problems with them also. Some of their drivers just don't give a damn, and others are very careful. You just have to be lucky.........

Fred A


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh DL-1... A New High!? posted by Drew on 6/19/2002 at 11:58:46 AM
That is rather amazing, As I mentioned is a previous post, my twice ridden '74 DL1 was stumbled upon for $45.00 & I thought that was alot.(this started my afair with DL's...had never even seen one until then). It take time but they do turn up at flea markets, yard sales, Estate auctions, one must be patient though. Found a his/her pair in very good+ condition for my sister & my brother inlaw, $140. ebay often is a battle of the spenders, only deals seem to be in items where it's name is mispelled and it was put in the wrong category. I feel it's far more enjoyible to wait & look, then pow, there's a Roadster for cheap, cheap money!

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh DL-1... A New High!? posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/19/2002 at 3:54:42 PM
Yes, that's an amazing price, but is it expensive? Maybe not. I'd much rather spend that much on a DL-1 (and this was one sweet) than half again as much on some new mountain bike or whatever passes for cycles nowadays. I walk into a cycle shop nowadays and just feel I'm from another planet. It's even hard to fine just plain leather cycling gloves. Dayglow orange, Spiderman, 13 velcro fasteners... it's all kids stuff. So a mint DL-1 or Rudge will always be a "bargain" at almost at price in my book.

Now, if we could just find some reasonably secure way to get these eBay cycles safely to their destinations... I'm very hesitate to condemn anymore machines to the tender mercies of careless shippers, flimsy cardboard and hamfisted UPS drivers.

P.C. Kohler

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh DL-1... A New High!? posted by Mark R. on 6/19/2002 at 6:13:23 PM
I paid $450 for my DL-1 in brand new condition. I only did so because I sold one in brand new condition that was too small for me, and miricle of miricles two weeks later I find one exactly like I wanted, in my size, and new old stock to boot. I gladly took the $450 out of the bank and bought it. But, I don't know if I'd have done so for $560. It's probably worth it, but still....You know if you take the original price that they went for in 1967, about $120 and multiply by the standard price index (5.20, = $624) you discover that at $560 you are getting a bargain!






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Breaking in a new Brooks leather saddle posted by: David Poston on 6/18/2002 at 10:38:28 PM
I'm thinking about getting a new Brooks leather saddle, most likely a B-66. According to Sheldon Brown's site, you can soak these in neatsfoot oil or something similar and then it will be broken in within the first couple hundred miles. If you go to the official Brooks saddle webpage, however, they strongly state that only Brooks Proofhide must be used, not even saddle soap. If I follow their directions, it may take me who-knows-how-long to break in my saddle. Has anyone here had any experience in this regard?


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Breaking in a new Brooks leather saddle posted by David on 6/18/2002 at 11:28:23 PM
I got a NOS B72 a while ago and it was never UN-comfortable. It fitted itself to me quite well in less than a month, riding no more than 5 miles a day. I used only Proofide on it. I think the wide saddles are easier in this regard than the racey narrow ones.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Breaking in a new Brooks leather saddle posted by Mark R. on 6/18/2002 at 11:49:25 PM
You should simply ride on the saddle and don't put anything on it, or soak it in anything. At least not right away. Just ride on it. You'll probably find that it is VERY comfortable as is. We used to treat saddles in the old days, but to tell the truth the saddles I never treated (other than using proof hide every now and then) seem to last longer, and the leather seems to stay in good condition longer. I always found the leather to stretch too much if I treated it. Of course I'm a fairly big guy...
A long time back a guy I knew used to soak the saddle in neatsfoot oil over night, and then tie it up with string and boil it in a pot! You could ride on it right away and it would be soft as a babies butt, however I doubt that the saddles would last more than a few years if you did that! My Brooks pro has been under my butt since 1974, and it's still goin' strong. The only thing I ever did to it was put some proofhide on every now and then.
I heard that some people soaked their saddles in motor oil!
Can you imagine that?

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Breaking in a new Brooks leather saddle posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/19/2002 at 12:03:51 AM
Amen. This notion that one has to 'break in' a Brooks saddle is sheer twaddle. One breaks in horses, baseball mitts, maybe girlfriends... but a Brooks saddle? I just got a B-33 for my DL-1. Nearly new, maybe it was ridden like four times. I bolt the thing on and I just ride and ride. Like 200 miles on the darned thing in two weeks. Couldn't be more comfortable.

And here's a bet: you ride on the B72 already on your Rudge and in two or three weeks, you won't even think about your saddle. That's because they are Brooks.

P.C. Kohler... whose 1949 Rudge has been "Damaged in Shipment" by UPS..... and is ready to boil everyone connected with that worthless brown company in neets foot oil or worse...

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Breaking in a new Brooks leather saddle posted by David Poston on 6/19/2002 at 12:36:39 AM
I think I'll stick with Proofhide just to play it safe at first. If it's still hard, then I'll gradually try some oils.

P.C., what did they do to your poor Rudge? We can form a club of abused Rudges.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Breaking in a new Brooks leather saddle posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/19/2002 at 1:02:40 AM
Just one key thing about leather saddles: they are under tension so they never 'get soft'. A 'soft' saggy saddle is horrible. A good Brooks saddle should always respond to the 'tap' test with a drumlike quality. Call it 'hard' but you'll call it comfortable. What a leather saddle does is mould to your bottom, does not absorb your energy as you cycle, it supports, it does not 'sweat' and it looks and smells great. All the Proofhide in the world is not going to make your saddle squishy soft. Nor should it. Proofhide will protect your saddle, ruin your trousers (this is why cycling shorts are black!) and fill a room with that great beeswax smell.

As for my Rudge, when UPS says "the box looks really damaged" (mainly because the idiots attempted to deliver it twice unnecessarily) it sounds pretty grim. I have this image of bits and pieces dribbling out each time. Worse, I have another Rudge due next week by UPS. Stop him before he ruins anymore Rudges...!

P.C. Kohler

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Breaking in a new Brooks leather saddle posted by geo on 6/19/2002 at 3:47:07 AM
David, It is my understanding that you recieved this bike damaged and therefore have never ridden the thing. Save your money, take some advice and TRY the bike first. I've ridden some butt busting saddles but NEVER a Brooks. From the cheapest Brooks matress saddle to the finest leather one they made, they are the BEST. The damn thing was made to support over one hundred pounds plus, of course it's going to seem hard as a rock. If you want agony ride around in a saddle without enough support for awhile. Again no offense but you ask everyones advice and then promptly ignore it. I mean if you are going to ignore advice at least keep it to yourself instead of telling us all you are going to absolutely disregard everything anyone tells you. You have an opportunity to benefit from years of expertise here. Trust me I know, I've learned alot from these people from how much and what kind of oil to use in a SA hub to where to get tires for a DL-1. I have a feeling you've clocked zero miles these people collectively have probably ridden millions. Listen to them, they know of what they speak. The best thing to do is to leave it alone and ride it when it gets back from the shop. Then you will know what it really needs and I guarentee it won't be expensive saddle soap. Good luck.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Breaking in a new Brooks leather saddle posted by Mark R. on 6/19/2002 at 1:35:28 PM
David,
I absolutely guarentee that the saddle, as is, will be more comfortable than any soft saddle. The worst saddles I've ever used were the softest. Brooks saddles feel hard to the touch, but feel wonderful to the bottom, especially after you ride on them a few days. It will disappear from under you. The worst are gel saddles believe it or not. They feel like you've got something pokin' up your butt after a while.I wouldn't put any proofhide on until you've ridden it for a year or so, maybe not even then. Your natual body fluids(sweat) will eventually neccessitate that you put something on it, but that may take a long time unless you get it et with rain (God forbid!)
Good luck!

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Breaking in a new Brooks leather saddle posted by George N. Wells, CPIM on 6/19/2002 at 2:28:35 PM
On the American side of the Atlantic, I put a Brooks Pro on our tandem last year. It did not take long to get my butt adjusted to the saddle. However, it has developed an annoying squeak in the past few months. Any ideas where the squeak may be coming from. Note: I have it as far back on the rails as possible for my sitting position -- can't bring it any closer. It's never been rained on and has had two Proofhide treatments.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Breaking in a new Brooks leather saddle posted by David on 6/19/2002 at 3:53:39 PM
Try to find the source of the squeak. Something is moving that shouldn't be; rivets that aren't tight, play in the seatpost or the seat tube of the frame? Does it still squeak if you mount the saddle at the middle of the rails? You might put a bit of oil on the threads of the adjuster at the nose of the saddle - try to keep it off the leather.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Breaking in a new Brooks leather saddle posted by David Poston on 6/19/2002 at 6:37:49 PM
Geo,

This message is directed towards you. I'm not trying to ignore advice here. I appreciate all the advice given, as stated before. I'm just trying to look at everything from all sides. Here is what Sheldon Brown has to say about breaking in a leather saddle:

"The easiest and fastest method to break in a new saddle is with a liquid leather dressing, such as neatsfoot oil, Lexol, seal oil (a French favorite) or baseball glove oil...Paste or wax type leather dressings, such as Brooks Proofide, Sno-Seal, and saddle soap will work, but it takes much, much longer to break in a saddle that way."

As you see, there are always going to be differing opinions. I am just trying to gather as much advice as I can and compare it to see how it measures up. Eventually, my personal experience will determine whether this advice was good or bad. I just want to let everyone know that I am grateful for their input, and did not mean to ignore or reject it in any way.

With regards to the saddle, I'll try out my old B72 saddle first before I do anything else...

David

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Breaking in a new Brooks leather saddle posted by Mark R. on 6/19/2002 at 6:51:28 PM
You go boy! I think you'll pleased as is.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Breaking in a new Brooks leather saddle posted by geo on 6/19/2002 at 10:15:06 PM
Sorry if I offended you David. You needn't extract quotes from Sheldon Browns site on my behalf, I've already been there thousands of times for advice and information and besides I don't have a question about breaking in Brooks saddles, you do. You know we all spend time responding to your questions, all of us probably thinking it's good to help someone getting started in this hobby, adding another to the ranks. Personally I welcome your questions, I actually do, but if you don't think much of the advice given(and everyone has a different opinion and that is as it should be), would you mind doing that quietly, it's more polite. I know you're appreciative of the advice given and I think we all like helping out and you should do your own thing but remember we're trying to help. Keep in mind who asked the question. Good luck with the Rudge, they are great bikes.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Breaking in a new Brooks leather saddle posted by George N. Wells, CPIM on 6/20/2002 at 4:24:09 PM
I just had an interesting e-mail exchange with Nick Sanders of Brooks. His recommendation is to tighten up the saddle a bit. Now I have to get a wrench (a.k.a., spanner) and read the manual. I guess my my 100kg (albeing falling -- thankfully) on the saddle for a year has stretched the leather a bit while the saddle and my butt were "getting used to each other." I'll try it and let you know how it worked.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Breaking in a new Brooks leather saddle posted by Edward in Vancouver on 6/20/2002 at 9:04:49 PM
Might as well get my two cents worth in here too. Last year I bought a brand new B66, and used only Proofhide to "break it in". I've had several negative experiences with Neatsfoot oil. It does soften leather, but aggresivly, and will weaken the fibres. This becomes very clear when the oil is applied to boots, and within weeks the leather fatigues, stretches, and rips at stressed areas like seams.
As for squeaky seats, spray WD40 on the springs and rail,and bolts and you'll have a quiet ride for a while.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Royal Enfield Roadsters posted by: Jeff Auston on 6/18/2002 at 9:08:42 PM
Who knows where one can find info on Enfields, there seems to be almost nothing out there? Even Sheldon Brown does not list them as a english maker.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Royal Enfield Roadsters posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 6/19/2002 at 12:09:30 AM
I briefly had a 1937 ladies model. The Westwood rod brake rims took 26 X 1 3/4 tires. I went to an old Schwinn shop and I found a set because like 10 years or so ago they put out a bike that just happened to use this size tire. the size turned out to be the same as a 26 X 1 3/4 tire. Go to
Tony Hadlands website, hadland.net or do a search under Tony Hadland's website and you'll see where(after searching a bit) where he has a article written about small wheeled Royal Enfield Revelation bikes. There is a book written by Anne Bradford called Royal Enfield, I got mine from Hunt End Books in Redditch, England. Whenever a company has made motorcycles the bicycles never get mentioned and they never show pictures of the bikes either, or mention them but the Royal Enfield book is not like that so much and so I recommend it.
Even Sheldon has not covered completely and totally everything. I know what you mean, it is interesting.

We really don't see many of these, strange how it has slipped away into nothing. I was told ( I can be wrong about this one so don't hold me to it) that they didn't export them into the U.S.A. Perhaps that's why we don't see mention of them so much.

Do a search here in the oldroads.com archives for info about Royal Enfield. I forget what else to tell you at the moment.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Royal Enfield Roadsters posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/19/2002 at 3:14:52 AM
Royal Enfield was a pretty major cycle maker; if you want gobs of information on them, just pick up any copy of "Cycling" magazine. I am looking at two right now with full page Royal Enfield adverts c. 1933. Like the Club Lightweight Model 77 at £7 10 s. Or the Bullet with chrome molybdenum frame and electron rims at £10 10 s. So some serious machines at serious prices here. They were headquartered at Redditch and,of course, their symbol was an artillery piece "Made Like a Gun". If you want, I'd be happy to scan these ads and e-mail them.

P.C. Kohler

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Royal Enfield Roadsters posted by Chris on 6/19/2002 at 7:58:55 PM
Take him up on it, and go back to P.C.'s web site from time to time as he's building a great site! Write down the address and make regular stops to it.






MISC:   Collection of fascinating links posted by: David on 6/18/2002 at 8:50:21 PM
Here's a big list of weird 'n' wonderful articles related mostly to mopeds but also bikes.
http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/'pattle/nacc/arcindex.htm
Check out
A guide to tyre sizes
Electrify your bike
Elswick-Hopper


   RE:MISC:   Collection of fascinating links posted by Ian on 6/19/2002 at 8:58:07 AM
The clue to the thread of these links is in the address. "N.A.C.C." stands for the Natinal Auto Cycle Club which is the English organization for owners of auto cycles, mopeds and power assisted bicycles. They put out a typically English fascinating little magazine called "Buzzing". Just what you need if you are into powered mchinery that needs "light pedal assistance" on the uphill bits!






FOR SALE:   Minty Rudge De Luxe on eBay posted by: P.C. Kohler on 6/18/2002 at 6:42:45 PM
This one looks like she just came out of the packing case; looks c. 1965 to me and one of the last with the Rudge Hand crankset. Fork lock. Delicious.

P.C. Kohler, all Rudged out and happy to concede this baby to someone else..


   RE:FOR SALE:   Minty Rudge De Luxe on eBay posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/18/2002 at 6:46:19 PM
sorry, here is the link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2114358599

   RE:RE:FOR SALE:   Minty Rudge De Luxe on eBay posted by David Poston on 6/18/2002 at 7:33:16 PM
Is the Rudge Deluxe akin to the Raleigh Superbe?
It looks alot like my Rudge Sports, but probably in better condition.

David

P.S. What kind of tires are those? The walls look to be an amber or off-white color.


   RE:FOR SALE:   Minty Rudge De Luxe on eBay posted by David on 6/18/2002 at 7:33:25 PM
How strange! Bruce Rudge in NJ is selling a Rudge Sports and I just sold another one to a different Rudge in NJ!

   RE:RE:RE:FOR SALE:   Minty Rudge De Luxe on eBay posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/18/2002 at 8:48:25 PM
David; this is not quite a Superbe (condition aside) without a Dynohub and that icky mattress seat. The amberwall tyres are what makes me think this dates from the mid 60s. And no.. your Rudge is not in this good a condition. Neither is any cycle on this planet judging from the looks of it!! I bet it still has the nobbly bits on the tyres.

P.C. Kohler... still waiting and waiting for his Rudge... which is also from New Jersey (was there some kinda mega Rudge dealership in the Garden State?)

   RE:RE:RE:RE:FOR SALE:   Minty Rudge De Luxe on eBay posted by paul on 6/19/2002 at 2:15:44 AM
I bought a Rudge Sports ca 1965 at a thrift shop for $10 because the ratty gumwall in the rear was not seating properly and the tube was sticking out. I put new blackwalls and tubes on it, replaced the cheap "comfort" saddle with a used Brooks B72 and with the beautiful maroon paint it is the sharpest and best bicycle I own(have 12) My other Brit Bicycle is 1963 Raleigh Sports in Cranberry Red with red and white mattress saddle( I bought it 10 years ago) and a 1976 Bickerton with 3 speed SA Folder. Paul






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Roadster Range (UK) 1954 posted by: P.C. Kohler on 6/18/2002 at 5:07:11 PM
I have posted in the Files Section of my Yahoo Group "Roll Britannia" specs of the Raleigh Roadster range in the UK c. 1954.

Interestingly, even then, the 28" wheel roadster was being offered as a mere "option" to the far more common 26" wheel machines.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rollbritannia/

P.C. Kohler







FOR SALE:   Raleigh Sprite 27 posted by: Bryant on 6/18/2002 at 4:16:22 PM
Hi all. Just finished putting together the Raleigh Sprite 27 10 speed I found at a yard sale. It was fun fixing it up and researching it but not a lot of fun riding. I found the geometry to be off for me. Maybe it was too small. Anyway if anyone is interested, and in the Baltimore area, it is for sale at a very reasonable price. Need to make room for my next find. It is 23" frame, has both fenders and rear rack, is a Coffee color and has just been overhauled. It also has a small hole near the bottom of the downtube but not much rust. Email me if you want more info.







AGE / VALUE:   Interesting hub on eBay posted by: smg on 6/18/2002 at 3:23:17 PM
Check out eBay 2113890376. This is described as an "Antique Wood-wheel 2 Speed Shaft Drive Hub". It looks as though the two bevel gears (presumably on two concentric drivers) mated with stepped gears on the drive shaft, with gear changing accomplished by a clutch controlled by whatever actuator went into the left side. Or perhaps that was a brake, and shifting was by back-pedalling? Anybody have any ideas?







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Jack Taylor serial number location. posted by: John Counter on 6/18/2002 at 3:07:47 PM
I have a what I believe is a vintage 1971 Jack Taylor touring cycle. It has a four digit number on the rear left drop out. The same four digit number is also on the rear pannier rack, where it conects to the rear drop out, same side as the bike serial number. Also does anyone have a phone number for the Jack Taylor shop? Thanks.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Jack Taylor serial number location. posted by smg on 6/20/2002 at 4:40:38 PM
Go to the "Classicrendezvous" site for a start.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   steel rims in the rain posted by: Mark Rehder on 6/18/2002 at 5:56:34 AM
OK, so I love my '73 Sports. It's perfect for around-town jaunts, and I can leave it locked up without worrying about it (having a big metal basket on the rear rack is practical and helps it look less desirable). The fenders and chainguard are great in the rain, but I do not love its wet-weather braking capabilites! I've heard about using the salmon-coloured Koolstop pads on steel rims - any feedback on this?

The other option of course is to spend the bucks (and wheelbuilding time) and go for an alloy rim (at least on the front). Bill Putnam and I have discussed the pros and cons of using either mtb. bike rims, which give perhaps too much fender clearance aesthetically, or 700Cs, which are a tight fit, so must be kept under 32mm. I kind of like the idea of staying with the correct size, but new alloy 590 rims would be a big investment for a $40 bike. Perhaps the Koolstop pads are the cheap (though not ultimate) solution?

Any comments are appreciated!

Mark


   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: steel rims in the rain posted by Sheldon Brown on 6/18/2002 at 7:17:25 PM
The difference in size is not so minor, 590 mm vs 559 mm, 31 mm in diameter, 15 in radius. You can't move the brake shoes down 15 mm in the stock calipers, so you'll need either super-long reach calipers or some sort of hub brakes, or to braze on some cantilever studs.

This will also lower the bottom bracket by the same amount (assuming a similar profile tire) likely creating pedal strike issues.

Convertint to 700 C (622 mm) rims is probably more practical. They're readily available, as are the tires. You can generally fit 700 x 28 C tires in the stock Raleigh fenders, but not much wider than that. This makes a nice "hot rod." You will need shorter-reach brakes for this.

I've got an early '50s Raleigh sports with a full chaincase, black ESGE fenders and 27 x 1" (630 mm) wheels with an SW hub...something of a "Q ship"

See: http://sheldonbrown.org/bicycle.html#sportsq

Sheldon "Stealth" Brown
Newtonville, Massachusetts
+---------------------------------------------+
| I will be appearing in the Spring Revels |
| With John Roberts & Tony Barrand |
| June 21-23, http://www.revels.org |
| Sanders Theatre, Cambridge, Massachusetts |
+---------------------------------------------+


   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   steel rims in the rain posted by Bill Putnam on 6/18/2002 at 7:48:27 PM
As Sheldon mentioned, going with 559 rims requires very long reach brakes. I have this set up on one Raleigh Sports with a hub brake on the rear and a BMX sidepull on the front. It's a bike used for winter. In the winter I rely mainly on the rear brake anyway since in slick road conditions if you lock up the front wheel you'll go down in an instant. The front brake is more of a weak back up brake in the event of a failure in the drum brake. Because of the long reach of the BMX caliper, the front brake isn't all that much more effective than a stock set up with steel rims.

700c's are a reasonable option, and often you can find 700c rims in the trash (at least in Madison WI when the University lets out and students heap piles upon piles of trash on the terrace)at zero cost. So buy some spokes, scrounge a 36 hole AW off an old Schwinn, and you're in business.

I do have a new pair of Weinmann 590 alloy rims, 36 hole. They are more in keeping with the aesthetics of a Raleigh Sports than the Sun rims, the Yellow Jersey bike shop in Madison has some stock yet of these, though the expense might be prohibitive for Mark's project.

Bill Putnam

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:  steel rims in the rain posted by Mark Rehder on 6/19/2002 at 2:24:58 AM
Oops! Of course the 559 rims will be out of reach of the stock brakes! Silly me... I will try the Kool-stop pads for now, and am looking into what the Sun alloy rims will cost me. I've emailed Carey Chen at Urbane Cycles in Toronto, as he had mentioned to me a while ago that he had a pair in this size, so I will see if they fit into my budget. I do have access to plenty of alloy 700C rims through my bike co-op, but I'm not sure about the 28mm limitation, as I'm a fan of wider tires for urban riding (though using 700C would cut down on the amount of different tire diameters I have to deal with in my fleet of bikes!). Perhaps I'll try a pair of 28s on my 700C hybrid and see what it feels like...

If I do go the alloy route, I'll could just give the steel 590s to the co-op in exchange for a 36-hole AW hub to lace into the rear alloy rim, since we do sometimes receive donated 3-speeds with badly rusted wheels that need replacing. Hmm...

Mark Rehder (not Mark R.!)

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Come and visit my Webpages at:
http://home.istar.ca/'marker/
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   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   steel rims in the rain posted by David on 6/18/2002 at 10:53:22 AM
I've got Kool stop on the front of my Sports. It's certainly better than "John Bull" pads in the rain, but you still need to plan your emergencies well in advance! They squeal a lot, so you know that some of the energy is being dissipated and it still beats rod brakes. If anyone comes up with a source of 32-hole aluminum rims please spread the news!

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   steel rims in the rain posted by Mark R. on 6/18/2002 at 12:00:30 PM
Proper sized alloy rims are available from The Netherlands(Holland), however it seems to me that you should be able to get by just fine with Mt. bike rims and tires. I doubt that the minor difference in size would be such a big deal.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   steel rims in the rain posted by dafydd on 6/18/2002 at 1:07:37 PM
Sun AT18s have a 590 bead diameter and are not too expensive, but you also need to find 36-hole hub if you don't have one. I laced a dynohub to one last night, truing today. They're not as pretty as the original rims, but it's an everyday bike, so aesthetics aren't everything.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:  steel rims in the rain posted by Bill Putnam on 6/28/2002 at 3:52:57 PM
The 28mm width for 700C wheels on a Sports is about the maximum width for the front. The rear will typically accommodate at least a 32, and I have run 35C rear tires. If these are inflated adequately they should handle just about everything the original tire and steel rim combination would because those would not tolerate very high pressures.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Different width handlebars posted by: Robert on 6/18/2002 at 3:08:45 AM
This may have been discussed here before. A couple of days ago, I was putting a Raleigh stem and bars on a Taiwanese knockoff. After finishing and going for a short ride I could not help but notice how comfortable it felt. Then took a short ride on the Dunelt . Something was wrong. The knockoff was MUCH more comfortable. Got to looking and realized that the Raleigh bars are about 1 1/2" wider at the bar ends than those on the Dunelt. The difference in width makes for a better angle at the grips. For me, this makes all the difference in the world. I have another pair that the "elbows" are a bit scuffed on, but I need to find some clean bars for the Dunelt. The wider ones measure 22" from center to center of the bar ends.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Different width handlebars posted by Dale on 6/18/2002 at 3:36:27 PM
For me, angle is important. This is why roadster bars in general are more comfortable than flat mtn. bike bars. Even on my recumbent, where there's no weight on my hands, I find the angled bars more comfy than flat bars.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Different width handlebars posted by Keith on 6/18/2002 at 4:03:47 PM
I've made the same comparosin and have the same opinion. The DL-1 bars are wider than those on my Chinese Forever. Wider bars in general offer better control, and I've been experimenting with 44 and 46cm bars on my road bikes for this reason. Maybe the Asian bars are narrower so as to squeeze more bikes per square inch in heavy Bejing or New Delhi rush hour traffic ;)

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Different width handlebars posted by David Poston on 6/18/2002 at 6:24:41 AM
Do you mean that the Raleigh handlebars flare out more to the sides than the Dunelt ones? (i.e. the bent angle is increased on the Raleigh). I actually prefer bars that are narrower in width, meaning that they point back towards the rider more instead of going out to the sides. I'll have to measure the bars on my Raleigh to compare with yours.

David.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Different width handlebars posted by Robert on 6/18/2002 at 12:52:53 PM
Yes, the set I put on the knockoff flare out more . All of the bends , height, ect are the same. Just they flare out a bit wider.






AGE / VALUE:   Larz Anderson National Bicycle Show posted by: Scott Ebersole on 6/18/2002 at 1:13:15 AM
Does anyone know what date the Larz Anderson National Bicycle Show and Swap Meet is this year?







AGE / VALUE: Tanaka Article by Rif Addams posted by: chris on 6/17/2002 at 10:41:27 PM
Our own Riff Adams did a great job with the Tanaka article in the current bikerodnkustom.
check it out!
Well done Riff!


   RE:AGE / VALUE: Tanaka Article by Rif Addams posted by geo on 6/18/2002 at 2:52:55 PM
Hey thanks, great article and quite timely as well, I just bought one of these and didn't know much about it.






AGE / VALUE: Stay away from 3 in one oil! posted by: chris on 6/17/2002 at 10:10:44 PM
Not only will it gum up the hub but it promotes rust and generally wrecks havoc inside the hub.
Genuine Sturmey- Archer oil is available from Sheldon Brown.