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Archived: English Roadsters







AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh DL-1 brings $550 on eBay posted by: Kevin C. on 9/16/2002 at 1:37:08 AM
A very nice 1939 DL-1, with original papers, just brought $550 on eBay (auction number 713855885). Is this a record? Hang in there, guys ... someday our favorite bike may be worth as much as an Orange Krate!


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh DL-1 brings $550 on eBay posted by P.C. Kohler on 9/16/2002 at 4:14:37 AM
No, not a record to my knowledge and considering the remarkable condition of this 1939 vintage machine, a very fair price. I was sorely tempted except for the fact she's a 22-inch frame. Me, I was expecting she'd fetch $700 plus in spirited bidding. Then, surprisingly, the owner switched to a "Buy it Now" and some lucky bloke did just that...

P.C. Kohler, who wouldn't know what to do with a near mint cycle anyway... I just am drawn to the basket cases






AGE / VALUE:   Sturmey Archer Rear Fender Reflectors posted by: Mike Slater on 9/15/2002 at 7:28:59 PM
I recently aquired a pair fo 1974 Raleigh 3-speeds, a beautiful original (including tires that are branded Raleigh)mens sport and a womens LTD-SC. I am thrilled at this garage sale($25 for both)find as I have been looking for quite awhile with little luck.

The only item missing is the rear Sturmey Archer red reflector that mounts to the rear fender.

Where can a replacement reflector be purchased?


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Sturmey Archer Rear Fender Reflectors posted by Scott on 9/15/2002 at 11:28:16 PM
I think you may be in luck. Check this out on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=714349489

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Sturmey Archer Rear Fender Reflectors posted by Albert on 9/16/2002 at 4:56:43 PM
I have several and would be happy to send you one simply for reimbursement of postage after its arrival.

Cheers from Philadelphia, Albert

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Sturmey Archer Rear Fender Reflectors posted by Albert on 9/17/2002 at 2:01:00 PM
My apologies to those trying to reach me by e-mail. My box is full and I am unable to delete by clicking onto "check all" and then "delete". This is a recent change made by Yahoo on this and another account I have with them. What's going-on with Yahoo? Any suggestions?

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Sturmey Archer Rear Fender Reflectors posted by Albert on 9/17/2002 at 2:01:01 PM
My apologies to those trying to reach me by e-mail. My box is full and I am unable to delete by clicking onto "check all" and then "delete". This is a recent change made by Yahoo on this and another account I have with them. What's going-on with Yahoo? Any suggestions?

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Sturmey Archer Rear Fender Reflectors posted by David Poston on 9/16/2002 at 9:28:56 PM
Hey Albert!

I need some, too. The Sturmey Archer red reflectors with the white rubber housing? I need two, and I'll even pay you a little to compensate for your trouble.

Thanks,
David

constantine_dmitrich@yahoo.com

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Sturmey Archer Rear Fender Reflectors posted by P.C. Kohler on 9/17/2002 at 12:30:59 AM
No you don't David, if these are for your "retro" DL-1 project. Prior to about 1969, these reflectors had a BLACK rubber housing not white. And if you're lucky, you'll find one with the cool "RI" (Raleigh Industries) on the reflector face.

P.C. Kohler, reflecting that the days are getting shorter and shorter... 'tis the season for reflectors and dynohubs!

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Sturmey Archer Rear Fender Reflectors posted by P.C. Kohler on 9/17/2002 at 12:34:24 AM
No you don't David, if these are for your "retro" DL-1 project. Prior to about 1969, these reflectors had a BLACK rubber housing not white. And if you're lucky, you'll find one with the cool "RI" (Raleigh Industries) on the reflector face.

P.C. Kohler, reflecting that the days are getting shorter and shorter... 'tis the season for reflectors and dynohubs!

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Sturmey Archer Rear Fender Reflectors posted by Mike Slater on 9/17/2002 at 12:55:33 AM
Thanks for the generous offer Albert. I certainly will not refuse!
If a opportunity arises, I'll return the favor.
Contact me at: flash@charter.net.

I tried to respond via e-mail, but for some reason it got kicked back.

Mike

   Reflecting on reflectors... posted by David Poston on 9/17/2002 at 2:29:37 AM
Peter,

Thanks for your correction. Yes, these reflectors would, indeed, be going on my "retro" DL-1 project. I was vaguely aware that pre-war bikes had black reflectors, but had given up hope of finding any. Harvey Russell informed me he has reflectors with a black housing, but it is bakelite or plastic, not rubber, so I declined. What kind of reflectors do your 40's machines wear? White or black? Rubber or bakelite?

Another issue with this retrofitment is when the white blackout stripe on the rear mudguard was introduced. 1920's? 30's?

David, having trouble retrofitting his DL-1's when parts are scarce even for the 60's-era.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Front axel thread size posted by: Joe on 9/15/2002 at 6:35:57 PM
I just picked up a '64 hercules, in rough shape-my Winter project! Could someone please tell me if the the front axel is a 5/16-24 thread? I started to chase the thread but stopped and thought I better check here first.







FOR SALE:   Peugeot 3-speed Mixte posted by: Sheldon Brown on 9/15/2002 at 4:37:13 AM
I've put a rather unusual 3-speed on eBay. It's a French-made Peugeot, Mixte frame, with Sturmey-Archer AW hub, 27 inch wheels.

See: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1859497240

Sheldon Brown
Newtonville, Massachusetts


   RE:FOR SALE:   Peugeot 3-speed Mixte posted by Mike Slater on 9/15/2002 at 7:16:25 PM
I picked up a identical bike for my wife about a year ago at a garage sale. She is absolutely in love with. She had preferred a mountain bike previously, but after she found out how much easier and faster this was on the street, well...its her baby! These are pretty nice bikes!






AGE / VALUE:   1968 Robin Hood posted by: David on 9/15/2002 at 12:45:15 AM
Does anyone know how much a 1968 Robin Hood Bicycle with the 3-speed in hub shifter in meant condition would be worth???? I just picked it up in a thrift shop and would love to know the value...any information is appreciated..


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   1968 Robin Hood posted by Mucus on 9/15/2002 at 1:44:19 PM
I too have a late 60's Robinhood. I don't think that they are worth as much as a good Raleigh, maybe around $75 in good shape. However, they ride very well indeed. Thay have lighter weight rims that seem to roll easier. If you deside to keep and ride it, you'll propably be happy.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:  ?968 Robin Hood posted by Albert on 9/15/2002 at 6:54:37 PM
Please let us know what price you do actually receive for the bike. Most lower-line English bikes like the Robinhood were available only in rather small frame sizes --- 19" being very common. This limits its adult usage and consequently its value.

Best yet, rather than selling it, why don't you use it providing that it fits.

Cheers from Philadelphia, Albert






AGE / VALUE:   Nice Rudge on e- bay, but that fork posted by: humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 9/14/2002 at 9:29:36 PM
E- bay item#713171208 Vintage Rudge Whitworth 1960's

The bike is very neat looking, but weathered. The decal transfer on the rear mudguard is cool! I have never seen one of those like this. poor picture quality for decal so I can't say further.
The bike is original but my eye caught that front fork. It is a Raleigh tubular fork with the shiny Raleigh thimble crown. The Rudge fork is a sloping downward type with a chrome plated metal cap over it. The Rudge fork is diffrent. My guess is that this bike has had it's fork switched. You can do this and not affect the handling of the bike but the originality has been altered.
Even after Raleigh had been building Rudges they still had that diffrent fork. It's at 10.00 right now. Somebody in the know would change that fork. Not my auction, no relation to seller. The cranks are very nice on this bike and they may be 7 inch cranks too.







AGE / VALUE:   E-bay item#713965910 posted by: humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 9/14/2002 at 9:03:05 PM
E- bay item #713965910 Sturmey-Archer Dynohub
This one has homedone terminals that are not original. With all the allure a bakelite dynohub has to offer, keep in mind that the original terminals in these bakelite models have weak screw attachments. These break and you are out of luck.
Perhaps somebody did this and tried to repair it.
I don't know if it is possible to repair these. I was told that once you break these screw terminals, it is the end for the armeture.
Another thing with dynohubs is that these sometimes have rust inside the thing. The metal ring rusts too. I have some that work well and others that are in the "sit and fool with" catagory.
Not my auction, no relation to seller.
Most of these dynohubs will NOT have rust inside. However it is a thing to look for. Do not seperate the armeture from that metal ring inside the thing or else loss of magnetisim will result and then the thing will never work as well. Unless you look in the archives here and see where we said to send it to for re-magnetization. Then after that I hear that these kick out bright light!


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   E-bay item#713965910 posted by humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 9/14/2002 at 9:17:35 PM
There are two metal rings inside the dynohub. A large thick grooved one that the armature rubs against and a smaller smooth one. The large grooved one is the thing not to be seperated from the armature and the smooth smaller one is what sometimes rusts.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   E-bay item#713965910 posted by Edward in Vancouver on 9/15/2002 at 4:19:10 PM
Oxalic acid. You don't have to separate the armature from the magnet, just soak the whole assembly in oxalic acid and flush with destilled water. My '72 GH-6 is proof of this.






AGE / VALUE:   Cautious approach to Lloyds posted by: Matthew on 9/14/2002 at 11:08:37 AM
Here is a cautionary tale about the use of Lloyds transfers. To explain, Cally is a collector of cycles from Ordinary via Dursley Pedersen, to Roadsters. Peter Lucas a gentle V-CC member, John Malsees a cycle collector and engineer, restorer par excellence. News and Views is the magazine of the V-CC.

Cally Calloman writes.

The company is Lloyds - they have been messing me about on a transfer
for quite a few months now, and have now explained that they are not in
a position to do the work for several months. I now have the unenviable
task of trying to retrieve my artwork from Nick at Lloyds so that I can
get the job done elsewhere. I understand that this retrieval may not be
too easy to attain.

This isn't a moan, merely an attempt at helping others not fall into the
same trap!

Please feel free to copy to any other poor souls who may fall into the abuse I got from Nick at Lloyds. He kept my art for 2 months, was impossible to get hold of, was deeply critical of my design and the quality thereof, could not do the job as he was personally tied up with something else, and then eventually returned my disc only after I sent him an SAE. He was also deeply rude to Peter Lucas on another matter. It suddenly becomes a bit like getting such a job done in London.

Happily Phillips Transfers in Billericay, Essex, UK, are polite, friendly and promise me a 2 week turn-round. I did suggest that News And Views carry a happy tales section where members can post their recommendations of suppliers, but this came to nowt.

After the reply from the editor of News and Views:

Many thanks for the full-and-frank reply, which was far more than I was
expecting. I think Nick is unaware of my 'job' and enjoys criticising artwork
on all grounds, regardless of its quality. (Cally works in the music publishing business) I am pleased to say that Phillips are now doing the job in 2 weeks and seemed perfectly happy with the CD I sent them. In a spirit of positivity I do think I, and perhaps other members, would benefit from a column in New And Views wherein we can share happy dealings with firms, much as happens in the Tips column in the VSCC newsletter. These are compiled at the end of each year and the club accepts no warranty or responsibility for them. That way, the poor suppliers, of which there seem to be a tiny amount, may have to pull their socks up.

I fully support your diagnosis and actions proposed, all totally
understandable. I did find a similar criticism of Lloyds from Peter Lucas and
much, much harsher words thereon from John Malseed, but all strictly off the
record, perhaps you should just keep an eye on matters. I certainly don't
expect you to accept responsibilities for advertisers.

I hope this reads well enough and makes sense, Regards Matthew.

PS. No offence to any one, inc Peter who has successfully used Lloyds. (Cally works in the music publishing business)


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Cautious approach to Lloyds posted by P.C. Kohler on 9/14/2002 at 2:20:00 PM
No offence taken Matthew-- contrary to popular opinion I don't even have stock in Lloyds or get a discount! And I can appreciate what Cally says. Nick is apparently in the process of moving house or something so communications are slow as are orders. And yes he does have opinions! And apparently distain for others' efforts.

My main complaint: he is really into lightweight and club machines and his range of transfers for "our" type of machines is quite limited. And I wish he had some kind of illustrations on his website.

And thanks for the tip on Phillips Transfer too; I take it they do custom work rather than offer a stock range. I might contact them re. producing new seat tube transfers for my Rudge.

But thanks to Nick at Lloyds for producing some fine work; my '49 Rudge certainly has come back to life thanks to his products. A serious dent in my purse but the results are worth it.

P.C. Kohler

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Cautious approach to Lloyds posted by Edward in Vancouver on 9/15/2002 at 8:46:10 PM
I really don't like what I just read. If Cally has an axe to grind with Nick, then she should do it personally and face to face. There are many of us (myself included) who have used Nick's services, recieved exactly what was ordered, on time, and on budget. I have taken the liberty to e-mail Nick and alert him of the posting on this site. People like Nick who devote their life to the restoration of bicycles and motorcycles do not deserve second hand, behind the back, discussions.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Cautious approach to Lloyds posted by humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 9/15/2002 at 9:07:43 PM
I agree.

   Oh, no! This is not good. posted by David Poston on 9/16/2002 at 9:41:10 PM
This is not encouraging news about Lloyds, if it is indeed true. I was getting ready to try to place an order for three Raleigh rear mudguard transfers of the pre-war style.

P.C., Are you going to be placing an order from Lloyds sometime in the near future? Since you seem to have good rapport with them, could you put in a good word for me?

David






AGE / VALUE:   FS: The Story of the Raleigh Cycle posted by: Kevin C. on 9/14/2002 at 10:21:23 AM
For sale: The Story of the Raleigh Cycle, hardcover, with dust jacket. Over 200 pages of Raleigh history, photographs, trivia. $45 postpaid.







AGE / VALUE:   roadesters posted by: sam on 9/14/2002 at 2:32:59 AM
http://www.ambercycles.com/bicycle.htm (interesting site)22 to24" roadesters too!


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   roadsters posted by Humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 9/14/2002 at 4:12:37 PM
Bottom bracket spindles! Yea!
Enclosed chaincases.
mudguards!
cotter pins!
How do we get it here in the states?

This means I don't have to go messing about with my dented original chaincases any longer.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   roadsters posted by P.C. Kohler on 9/14/2002 at 11:52:30 PM
Easy-- this seems to be the same source of the spares readily available through Cycles of Yesteryear in the UK. They stock gearcases for 26" and 28" machines, hockeystick chainguards, Westwood rims (36 hole only alas), rod brake sets for Raleigh and Phillips, mudguards (round section and spearpoint style), axles, headsets (24 and 26 tpi), tyres, pumps. It's all there for the taking. Reasonable prices. Really nice guy to work with. David Poston put me on to this and I have a big order en route. This outfit is also a good source for original parts too.

P.C. Kohler


   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   roadsters posted by David Poston on 9/16/2002 at 9:48:13 PM
I cannot say enough about Harvey Russell and his site, cyclesofyesteryear.com. He has been very patient with my long and cantakerous questions. I am in the process of assembling a HUGE order with him. I am constantly on the brink of ordering, and then I remember more parts I need, so the list grows almost daily. I have not received any parts from him as yet, but once I do I'll be sure to comment when my order finally comes through.

David






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1939 for sale on eBay posted by: michael on 9/13/2002 at 9:29:52 PM
Saw this on eBay; 1939 Raleigh with enclosed chaincase, original purchase receipt and Raleigh certificate

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=713273592


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1939 for sale on eBay posted by P.C. Kohler on 9/14/2002 at 2:21:57 PM
It gone already: reslisted at Buy it Now. Someone did for $550. Actually I thought this remarkable machine would fetch $750 or something. I sure would have been tempted had it not been a 22" frame.

P.C. Kohler






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh/all steel bicycle/3 speed/Help!!! posted by: Jason on 9/13/2002 at 7:41:56 PM
I am restoring a Raleigh, all steel, 3 speed which i believe to be about 1955. I can trace it back through its owners to the original buyer!!.The bike is complete, but i have had to replace the handelbar gear lever+cable and the front and back dynamo powered light as they were missing, these i have bought for next to nothing off of scrap bikes at my local sale ground, everything else is original down to the last nut (by the way i am from East Anglia, England)
But, does anyone have help/advive or even pictures that will enable me to fit these two things correctly so as they are working and hopefully in keeping with the original look as closely as possible.
Cheers
Jason.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh/all steel bicycle/3 speed/Help!!! posted by Ed on 9/16/2002 at 5:03:21 PM
My 1958 Raleigh Sports is equipped with a front Dyno Hub and front and rear lights. I will attempt to e-mail you directly and attach a photo.
Good luck with your bike, Ed.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Sports are a Quiet Ride posted by: Michael on 9/13/2002 at 5:14:03 PM
I'm a relatively new Ralieigh Sports rider, having just completed a project, and I'm riding it now...has anyone noticed how incredibly quiet the Sports is while pedaling? I hear no noises whatsoever, no clicking, no ticking, no sound at all except for the wind...I've never experienced this riding a bike...always some sort of noise from the bike...but I was riding late the other night, and since there was no traffic around me, I was stunned that while pedaling I didn't hear a thing...what caught my attention was that I DIDN'T HEAR A THING, not that I heard something...amazing for a bike built in 1966...what a pleasure to not hear anything except Nature...anyone else familiar with this phenomenon? Are all Raleighs with an internal hub that quiet?


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Sports are a Quiet Ride posted by David Poston on 9/13/2002 at 8:15:34 PM
I'm no expert here, by any means, but it seems the hub should be ticking at least when you are coasting (i.e. not pedaling). When you shift from 1st into second gear, I think the SA hub should begin ticking also while you pedal, at least that is what Sheldon Brown's website says, as well as what I've experienced with my Rudge Sports.

How you ever got your bike completely silent is beyond me. The mudguards and chainguard are usually rattling as I go, particularly when I hit bumps.

David

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Sports are a Quiet Ride posted by michael on 9/13/2002 at 8:44:43 PM
I called someone, and asked about the ticking, he thinks that my bike is totally fine; he said he's mostly heard the ticking, but on some 3-speeds, no ticking...I'd maybe get a clank from the chain on the chain guard when I go over a really MAJOR curb or hole, but I don't let that happen...

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Sports are a Quiet Ride posted by Bill Putnam on 9/13/2002 at 8:58:06 PM
Are you sure you have the original hub on the bike?

As David said, it is not normal for a Sturmey AW hub to be silent in operation. A properly working Sturmey will go tick tick while coasting and while pedaling in 2nd and 3rd gears. No ticking sound indicates a hub that may be very gummy from old grease/oil, which could lead to the pawls not engaging fully and slipping out of their detents, leading to loss of positive drive.

If by some chance you have an SW hub on your bike, then the nearly silent operation is normal, however these hubs were only made in 1957 and 1958, so in this case the wheel could have come from another bike. If you do have an SW hub, you might find http://my.ohio.voyager.net/'bdhayes/sa/sw.htm
interesting reading.

If you have an AW hub, I would at a minimum recommend you oil it with a lightweight oil (not 3 in 1 brand) or genuine Sturmey Archer oil.

Bill Putnam






AGE / VALUE:   Use Kitt Scratch Out on red tail light lenses! posted by: Chris on 9/13/2002 at 5:18:28 PM
I pulled out drawer after drawer as the fellow stood there. I picked out this new, never mounted red bullet style tail light lens out of the drawer. It had shop wear and scratches. Last night, I got a rag and daubed Kitt Scratch out on it and went to work polishing the small red lens and on the inside and outside. Then I buffed it.
WOW! It was transformed into a luscious red jewel! I went about and polished tail light lenses. This stuff works amazingly well on plastic! Night and day diffrence!
Black enamel too! Great stuff. Now to try that shoe polish next.
Exactly what brand of shoe polish do you recommend?







AGE / VALUE:    posted by: Mark R. on 9/13/2002 at 4:54:09 PM
I need some advice. I just received my NOS chaincase for my DL-1, and it is perfect! However, it doesn't have the "Tourist" decal or silkscreening on it. Does anyone know where I could aquire one, or does anyone have a spare they could sell, or swap???
Lemme know,
Thanks!


   RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by David Poston on 9/13/2002 at 6:49:45 PM
Where on earth did you find that NOS chaincase? I want one, or two!

Thanks,
David

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by Mark R. on 9/13/2002 at 7:18:47 PM
Serendipity: I was e-mailing a guy about something totally different, and he says:"If there is anything else you need, let me know". So I told him I needed a chaincase, and he says he has one NOS! I coulda' died, as you can probably imagine :-)I asked, but he doesn't have any others:-(

   RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by P.C. Kohler on 9/13/2002 at 7:23:14 PM
Lloyds Cycles (UK), frequently mentioned on this site, stock a variety of excellent quality waterslide transfers for Raleigh chaincases including the 1940s script style and the classic '50s "Raleigh- the All Steel Bicycle" (which I bought but have yet to put on my DL-1). He doesn't have the late 1970s-80 style "Tourist" transfer though.

P.C. Kohler

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by David Poston on 9/13/2002 at 8:18:22 PM
P.C., does he pre-war era transfers for Raleigh? As for not having 70's era DL-1 transfers, I'm not going to be upset about that. They're too 70's for me, even though they say "Raleigh."

David

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by P.C. Kohler on 9/13/2002 at 9:18:21 PM
Yes indeed; he refers to this as a "script" and it's the same as on my 1948 Raleigh. This pattern was used from the late 30s to the late 40s. Check the Lloyds website (link is in Roll Britannia under links); again you need to read this very carefully as there are no pix just descriptions and measurements. But he has 'em. The one on my machine is in near mint shape; about the only thing that is!

P.C. Kohler

   Where to put the transfers? posted by David Poston on 9/13/2002 at 10:18:37 PM
Now the question is, "Where do they go on your cycle?" Especially when your cycle: 1) has all its transfers rubbed off or 2) never had these transfers to begin with (being a later model as in my case).

I don't know if a period catalogue would should enough detail or not for these transfers.

P.C., I know where the rear mudguard transfer goes, but how about the one on the chaincase or the down tube? Just eyeball it and stick it somewhere?

David

   RE:Where to put the transfers? posted by P.C. Kohler on 9/14/2002 at 12:28:53 AM
These are SUBTLE machines of grace and dignity not circus waggons. Hence there are very few markings. Very few. At least before 1960.

rear mudguard: Heron's Crest (right above white blackout stripe). Lloyds sells the older style of this by the way.

geargase: "Raleigh" centered on the lower section of the guard and IMPORTANT: should be in line with the ribbing of the guard NOT horizontal as you're looking at it.

seat tube: pre-war perhaps nothing, but immediately post-war, "ALL STEEL BICYCLE". Lloyds has this too.

that's IT. Oh, and red and gold lining on every imaginable surface.

P.C. Kohler, who thinks he's spent more on Lloyds transfers the last month or two than on entire cycles...