|A few days ago I posted asking for help dating my dynohub. I forgot to mention that the hub came in a wheel. The rims are raised in the center. When did Raleigh stop using this type of rim?|
great example but not original, what do you guys think?
| Ok, what's not to like? He dosen't say that it's original, actually he spells out quite clearly that it's been 'restored' and there are a lot of 'incorrect' parts on it. Besides starting bid was only a buck! Ok, so there's a reserve. We'll play the "See if you can find my price" guessing game. Me, I'm not in to that.|
Oh, I did notice one inconsistency. In the opening paragraph the seller the seller states
"The bike was rebuilt down to the smallest nut and bolt in 1997, and has been ridden maybe thrice for a couple of hours since. "
Then in the 13th line he mentions
"Bike was painted in black Imron paint in 1997 and ALL parts were taken off and rechromed; since then the bike has not been ridden and in fact has never been outdoors"(/snip)
Should one suppose that the three instances the bike was ridden was at an indoor velodrome? :-)
Just my 20 pesos
|I don't like this bike, I LOVE it! Of course it is always preferable to have a stock bike, unencumbered with modern updates etc, but that doesn't mean a restored example is bad. I firmly believe that old bicycles should be ridden, not kept locked away in a pristine display case, so I see nothing wrong with this bicycle. If it were mine I would use it as a daily rider while I looked for a more original example.|
| your right it is pretty nice!!!|
what do you think it will go for?
I just really dig these "hairpin" saddles. As a matter of fact, I just ordered one. For the price, I felt it worth the "risk".
Even if the leather falls apart.. .which, somehow, I doubt it will... it can be replaced with better quality.
I am curious as to how it will "ride". Would appreciate any and all thoughts and / or opinions. Particularly from those who have one.
|Very funky Larry, did they say where made? I noticed that a hairpin saddle is also on the Eastman DL-1 at Yellow Jersey. I presume its made in India but maybe with Hindu the major religion its made somewhere else. It's also available for $30 but in black with a 3-rail design whereas yours is 2-rail. As far as getting either one (mostly for the frame) then riveting a nice Brooks leather on it, that would be neat if the rivet holes lined-up. I recently saw a website that listed rivets as still available. When you receive it, please let us know how you like it and if rivet holes line-up w/B-66/72.|
|Look here: http://oldroads.com/fs_p_bll.html just a click away at the bottom of the parts list right before the bikes.|
| Well, I'll be darned. I did not see that here... or I would have ordered it here. C'est la vie... If I like the one I receive and ponder acquiring another, I will order that one. Appears to be the same.|
I will check rivet alignment when the seat arrives. Additionally, will give it a "product review" here and monitor it's "durability" performance.
Still, if anyone has one already and would be so kind as to share their input, I would appreciate it.
Funky. Yes, definitely that! And economically priced. As far as origin of manufacture, they don't really say. Presumably, it will be so identified... can't really tell from the picture what's stamped on it, but we shall see!
THe saddle on the Eastman bike is the same as a plie I bought from a market stall in Lincolnshire UK. I paid £5 each for them. The leather, yes it is leather was pretty good but the metalwork and springs was useless. I only wanted the leather tops to recover some old saddles I have. I tried one of these Indian saddles a while back. After 20 miles of riding the springs had given up and the whole thing tilted to one side! The saddle you are looking at the same as on this site looks a different proposition. The torsional spring arrangement should be OK. Incidently you will find lots of very good leather products from India despite the prevalence of the Hindu religion. It's just metal work they are not so good at.
| Yeah, they sell it right here at oldroads. Same price as that place but oldroads sells it $3.62 cheaper wihen you figure in shipping! Shoulda checked oldroads first!!|
I've used these seats on a couple bikes. The leather is really thick.
|I have one of these with the same chrome springs and a dark leather top. I bought it on ebay a year ago and the seller said it was a Brooks leather seat. He said it had Brooks logo on the sides. I paid more than the one here on Oldroads. The seat turns out a reproduction from the late 70's or early 80's and not Brooks, he said pictures didn't show the logo, I kept it. It had been used a lot and still is in great shape. I use it on a few bikes and it is nice. I have not had any problems with it. The leather is great and no tears yet. Maybe the older reproductions used a better leather. I just got it and 2 bikes back from a movie company that rented them from me. I also had a friend rent them 3 bikes. 2 of his bikes have the same saddle. He also likes them. His are the new reproductions. I would buy another saddle like it. I still like the Brooks and Wrights saddles more for my British rides.|
|The India leather is good,for the price.As Tim said I find the springs a wast of time.I have two that I plan on building into good saddles with better springs etc.I built one for Rif to use on the Wyman run--no problems with that seat in the 3000 mile 50day trip.---sam|
| Larry et al, after looking closer I noticed that the Eastman DL-1 has coil springs in back and hairpin in front. Since the coil springs reportedly take a set, the full hairpins may be the better way to go.|
One thing about springs however, if they are not calibrated to the rider's weight isn't it a waste? I mean if you nearly bottom the springs or are so light they don't compress then what's the point other than looking fabulous?
I weigh 175lbs and compress a B66 nearly halfway down. I guess that's why I prefer the B72 for myself even though they are not as "cushy".
| Too right... the humble B72 remains in my even more humble opinion the best "roadster" saddle of them all. Now I love the look of my B33 on my DL-1 and the authenticity of my B66 on my '51 Rudge and '51 Lenton Sports (love those "keyhole" slits!) but all those bloody springs always squeek and every time the saddle "rocks", remember it's absorbing that precious thing you are contributing to the wonderful union between machine and man: the energy of your pedal stroke. |
The B72 offers all of the easygoing comfort of a wide roadster saddle without any of the disadvantages. It may be "boring" and all too common, but the thing, like an English three-speed, just WORKS.
| i found this old bike at the tip a while ago and finaly desided to fix it up but i dont know the brand or make. its got 2 r's stamped on the frame under the handelbars and i dont have clue what it stands for.|
me grandfather rekons its a rally racer coz thats what they raced in the uk when he was there but i havent a clue
if anyones has any ideas on the make could they please contact me..i dont have a picture of ut yet but when i do get one ill post it
|22 years ago my now ex father-in-law gave me an old 20yr+ BRG 3spd example, no oil bath, but w/ coaster brake SA hub and rod brakes nice badging, cool "Super Steel Bicycle" seat tube transfer, cleaned up well (Love British Empire chrome) Original rear rack was bent beyond use. Can't find anything about it - Help out there?|
|What's the easiest way to tighten a loose rear fender reflector on a Raleigh Sports?|
|On my sport, a 10mm box wrench fits fine with the wheel on|
|Should have a nut on the inside of the fender???|
|Should have a washer and a nut on the inside.|
|It does, I was working with that, I mean what tool is best for reaching that inside nut, I can't fit a wrench or socket in there.|
|Take the wheel off.|
| We've been beefing up our English 3-speed parts inventory.|
Have a look by clicking on "Parts for Sale" at the top of this page, or click on "English 3-speed Parts" directly above this message.
Vin - VVVintage Vintage Bicycles, Inc.
|I just got a dynohub, where should the date of manufacture be located? On the back side of the hub, the numbers 1 5 5 are stamped, the middle five is only halfway stamped, there is quite a bit of space between the two fives. Is this the date or some other information?|
|I have,so far,been successful in acquiring replacement bulbs at our local Radio Shack.The replacements appear no more or less bright than the originals. I have heard of a company in the UK which can supply Halogen replacements for dynohub bulbs. I have never tried to contact them. Due to high shipping cost and rather slow delivery time I avoid ordering parts from overseas when possible. I'am sure that someone who visits this sight can supply the address of the Halogen bulb supplier,since I recall discussions about them here on serveral occasions in the past.Good luck with your hub. Bike lighting of all types has always been an interesting topic to me.|
|I started collecting dynohubs serveral years ago with the idear installing them on each of my English roadsters.To date I have dynohubs on four out of five.The date on most of mine is embossed on the front near the wireing attachments,however I do have one that I bought from a man in Canada a few years ago that has no date on it.This indicates to me that they were not all dated, just as a few SA rear hubs that I have seen and been unable to find a date on. I may be wrong, but the 15 5 on the back of yours doesn't sound like a date to me. Incidentally,if you ever decide to sell yours drop me a line I still need one more to complete my project.|
| Are you using original lighting with your dynohubs? Have you ever tried using more modern brighter bulbs in the old lights? |
|Are you all lubricating rod-brake pivots and where stirrups slide in guides? I thought this would be a good idea then also thought of the dirt it would attract. Is it better to run dry?|
|That's an interesting question. Would something like a graphite based lube work, being less sticky?|
| A drop of oil as the little old Raleigh fold out book told us to.|
Just do not get oil on the braking surfaces, like the rims.
| But... but... the oil does WONDERS on the rims. Keeps the chrome from pitting.|
| Was foolin' around with some equipment at work and part of the activity included the "daily: put three drops of air-tool oin" into the feed line to a small, high RPM air motor. Got to thinking... I bet this particular oil would be well suited for 3-speed hubs as it is very light AND free of "detergent" additives.|
Any thoughts from the collective "wisdom" here?
Larry "Boneman" Bone
|Larry, Sheldon "3-speed" Brown has a website for this. He says a "light" oil will run out to quickly and grease is too heavy. I use most anything between 30wt motor oil and 90wt trans oil depending on quality of ticking sound.|
|I believe that Straight 20 weight has no detergents...doesn't gum up. It's what they use in oil baths for scroll sawa, old wormdrive saws etc|
| SAE 90! You must be kidding. This will lead to long term demise of the hub. Good quality motor oil works for me. Or maybe 30 years of riding SA 3-speed means I'm wrong? I've done high mileage on AW hubs and never had a problem.|
Ride a wheel, but oil it well.
|There was a lenghty discussion on this topic on the ROll Britannia site about a month ago. You might want to peruse that discussion to see what the "experts" say.|
| If anyone wants this saddle before I toss it back on the 'bay for sale, it's yours for the price of my high bid ($16.50). It has the key-shaped holes and black enameled undercarriage. It's in rather rough shape (one of the rivets is torn through), but the leather is still pliable and undercarriage sound. |
| Can anyone point me to some online pictures that show Brooks saddles that have been laced to help wiith sagging leather ? Also, what was used for the lacing?|
| Hi, I came across a Raleigh Sprite this week, it's in fair condition, the main concern is rusty rims and cranks. I have disasembled the bike completely for a good clean and lube, and have looked every where for a sign of a serial number or any dated components, but have found none. I checked the bottom of the B.B. shell, seat tube, rear dropouts and headtube as well as every inch of the frame but found no numbers. The only stamping one the frame is an "X" stamped where later raleighs had their serial number. As far as components, it has Huret Alvit deraillerurs and stem shifters, steel Dunlop 27" rims, (40 hole rear/32 hole front,) Raleigh stamped hubs, Brooks padded saddle, Nervar crankset, gray hard plastic Raleigh handgrips, round top fenders, and is painted dark metalic brown.|
I am guessing that it's late 60's or early 70's.
Does anyone know how to date one of these?
|Although I have a Sprite like yours also, I can only confirm your guess at it's age. The demarcation point for aging occurs in the early 70's when 36 spoke wheels were adopted as well as black handgrips with finger grooves and self-adjusting brakes with black plastic housings. This is my favorite genre of bicycle; viz., a Raleigh Sports type bike with deraillers, fenders, and upright handlebars. I consider the Schwinn World Tourist with Positron shifters top-of-the-class. The spread across the handlebar ends (22") gives it the edge. But I *love* my Raleigh 3-speeds.|
|They can be tough to date, I have a 1973-75 5-speed & was able to determine this because those wee the years of Ivory colored Sprites. In 1976 the started using the more modern 3 spoke chain ring and stopped using the old style chain guard. Go to www.retroraleighs.com , they have a page with info & photos of sprites.|
| Anyone own, or tried or even seen a Benotto like the ones on this page:|
The prices seem unrealistic, no known place of manufacture, so on. Still, they look promising enough.
|Much nicer than the Indian and Chinese roadsters that were discussed earlier...of course you pay for it.|
|Even though there is a dollar sign, the prices given are in pecos. I.E. Mexican dollars. "I think" that the exchange rate is about 10 or so to 1 . So , 1,000 pecos = $100 dollars US or something near that . Sam should be able to give a better idea since he goes to Mex. pretty regular.|
|Tim,yes the amount is in pecos.Divide by 10 for app. price.They are made in Mexico City.You can order these tru there web site but the process is complated.You can't send the money direct to benotto you got to open an account on a bank in Mexico City for them to draw on.I think the closest Benotto dealer is in Monterray---sam PS the "R" stands for rim and the "V" stands for # of gears|
| Perhaps |
R = rueda = wheel and
V = velocidades = gears
Francisco in Pullman
|After 10 months I'm finally completing the assembly of this bike from the crate. However, the carefully wrapped and boxed chain turns out to be endless. It has *no* master link .... like a factory installed motorcycle chain. How was it removed? The rear triangle is welded closed. Has anyone else run into such a chain on a Raleigh? My Raleigh Colt is set up the same way, and the rivet heads on both bikes are all nicely mushroomed on both ends. My Twenty has the mushrooms *and* a clip-on master link; my Robin Hood has double peened rivets with a clip-on. Other SA-equipped makes I have use snap-on master links. Bottom line: Should I press out a mushroomed rivet?|
|Dick, I don't think you have any choice but to break into the chain. I would first try to press out a rivet with a bike chain-breaker. If you don't have one or the rivet is really "mushroomed" or won't press out easily, I'd grind then punch-out the 2 rivets which will be replaced by a master-link. Don't forget to thread chain around sprockets to see if length is ok.|
|It should break with no problems. I've always wondered about those chains...there is usually one link with a heavier chromed side-plate but it is still riveted. I don't try to take that one apart.|
|There are some chains with no apparent master link as you mentioned Warren. Though I've found some clipless plates to be held on by torsion... if you flex the chain a bit to andle the pin ends together slightly the plate will fall right off. Weired, just plain weired|
| Jack, Warren, Stacey .... Thanks for the comments and advice. I am going ahead and breaking the chain while continuing to puzzle over why it was made "endless" before packaging. About two decades ago, the motorcycle industry started shipping superbikes with endless O-ring chains to avoid product liability suits. This left owners with a replacement choice of removing the swing arm and replacing with a factory chain or using an aftermarket master link chain. Looking at the endless chain on my Colt with its high quality fully mushroomed peening, I think Raleigh duplicated the situation.|