| I just received my NOS Raleigh DL-1 chaincase today from CYORD. It looks to be c. 1970s-80s; sloppy pinstriping and nondescript. Can anyone out there with an enclosed Dl-1 chaincase (late 1970s) tell me how to mount the thing? The seller sent some hardware; I'm just not sure if one screw is enough to hold the thing on the bottom bracket end of the chaincase.|
PS--If there is a parts diagram available, that would help, too.
Takes a bit to load, but once it does, scroll down to the bottom of the page.
Did the sellor happen to have any more of the chaincases?
| I had forgotten about this parts diagram. I have already downloaded this from Roll Britannia. I believe this diagram is c. 1952; does anyone have any idea if it still applies to 1970s DL-1's? |
Referring to page 22:
I have parts P1264C, S552A, S562 (two). Are these all I need to install my gearcase? I assume that part P1264C serves as a brace of some kind in conjunction with S552A and S562 to hold the thing in place on the hub end. Is this all I need? On the bottom bracket end, what do I need? Just part S552A? Some washers, perhaps?
If this is all I need (i.e., just one bolt on each end), Raleigh has a fairly unique (and simple!) set-up, bolting the chaincase directly to the frame rather than using detachable clamps that hold the thing in place.
This is not quite relevant to your request on the DL1 chaincase, but because of my experiences mounting one on a Superbe, I am keenly interested in how this turns out for you. Do you have bolt-on backstays? I had to fabricate a non-destructive replacement for the brazed-on threaded mounting boss on the right chainstay. (I ended up integrating my substitute with the kickstand mounting.) It was also necesary to fabricate a couple of lugs and brackets to mate with the existing brazeons intended for the hockey stick chainguard. The resulting mount was quite secure and well-aligned. However, it required several trial runs to adjust the extremely tight and unforgiving clearances with the chain and also the wheel spokes (not to mention the kickstand-crank clearance).
| Yes, all DL-1's have the bolt-on backstays. As far as the frame is set up for chaincase mounting, there is a hole (non-threaded) in the right chainstay near the hub end and a threaded hole near the bottom bracket. Basically, what I am asking is this: |
Do I need any additional hardware other than a bolt/screw to pass through each of these holes in the chainstay?
PS--I noticed that my '55 Raleigh Sports DOES have the threaded hole near the bottom bracket, but DOES NOT have a hole near the hub end, so I assume that different hardware is required for mounting a gearcase for 26" wheel bikes. My 60's and onward Sports bikes DO NOT have any threaded holes for mounting a chaincase, so I assume that a chaincase was not an option on these...
| Yes, the chaincases for DL1's are different from those for 26" bikes. The later used the hole in the right chainstay as a forward mount accessed by removing the pie-plate and rotating the chainwheel. However, the rear mount was designed specifically for a chaincase featuring separate enclosures for the upper and lower chain runs so that the right chainstay penetrated the case obliquely (through the "donut hole") and was attached to the rear of the case by chromed half-clamps. I have no first hand knowledge for mounting a Dl-1 chaincase except that it requires unbolting the backstays at the seatpost.|
The Sports models exported to America eliminated the full chaincase in the 50's and dropped the mounting brazeons somewhat later. However, I have every reason to believe that full chaincases continued to be available for domestic production right up until the end circa 1982. Can anyone from the British Isles confirm this for us?
|Ooh, boy. Chaincases. Two years trying with just chaincases and I'm still not finished. The bike's all done, just the chaincase. On my 26" wheel Superbe I found out that the chaincase must be "spilt" to get around the seatstay, and that cases for 26" wheel machines and DL1's are totally different animals. In my collection I have now got an all plastic with plastic chrome accent jobbie that I naivly ordered from Pashley, which I immediately stuffed behind the freezer in the garage. Then there's the main case from a 26" Hercules, battered with a home made elbow from a kiddies bike chainguard --the Herc doesn't quite fit Raleigh, doesn't match up with the braze-on eyelet on the chainstay. Then there's the Humber case, also battered, got it just for the elbow which was intact and straight, but missing the pieplate... Oddly, the Humber has a brass screw on the top edge near the elbow which I assume is to drizzle oil onto the chain. None of the other cases in my "collection" have this. The elbow on the Humber uses two screws to attach to the main case. The main case I chose to use was a Rudge, in real nice shape, no dents, but then no pie plate or elbow either. This one used only one screw to hold the elbow in place. I used my trusty blow torch (the one I use at work to finish off creme brullee and loosen cheesecakes out of the forms with) to take one of the fittings off and braze it on to the Rudge case. Next was the pie plate hunting. At first I thought I'd get lucky at Value Village or something with using a biscuit tin lid-no such luck. After a year or so I eventually broke down and ordered a used one fron England. I made the sliding plates that fit in the back behind the cog from a cookie tin, and made the strap that fits around the chainstay and bolts onto the case from scrap. Now I was ready to paint, easy, right? Nooo, I had the frame, fenders, Prestube minor rack and Hockeystick guard all powder coated a really classy British Racing green back in 2001. Can't powder coat a chaincase because of all those bitty soldered parts that will melt off when it gets baked. Now that I've got the case all ready to be painted, which only took me two years, I've still got to find a painter that can match the powder with wet-paint, and do a decent job without charging me mega-bucks. So just don't go about mentioning chaincases with me, 'cause I don't know if the wall is screaming at me, or if I'm screaming at the wall...|
Wow, I thought I had it rough with trying to locate gearcases. It appears that you have been to hell and back over this thing. I first ordered an Indian-made, 28" gearcase from H. Russell of COY, and it looked great--but fitting it to my DL-1 was a bit of a pain. I had to do a lot of tweaking of the clamps (fortunately, they were light enough guage to be malleable) to get the case to sit just right, so that the chain wouldn't rub. Once I finally got it situated, I added the pie plate...more rubbing, more tweaking in order. I really never got it just right. It would rub every few revolutions, and it would just irk the perfectionist inside of me. These cases might have fit a Phillips or other make just fine, but they weren't meant for a Raleigh. Fortunately, I just happened to recently pick up an NOS chaincase for a Raleigh, with appropriate hardware. Let's hope this one fare better. It's late production Raleigh, so quality is down, but at least it was intended for a Raleigh, so the hardware should line up properly. No tweaking of clamps or bending involved this time. I've truly learnt my lesson with foreign copy parts. As good as they might look from afar (or even near), they just don't fit quite right.
The gearcase on my c. 1940s New Hudson 28" roadster beats foreign copies hands down, even the late production Raleigh one. The thing is as solid as a rock. The body of the case doesn't flex at all. It is some heavy duty stuff. There are at least two clamps which hold it in place, with a total of about 8 screws involved. Once set there, it ain't moving around, no sir.
PS--I have an old 26" chaincase on a '52 Raleigh Sports that is just sitting around which I don't need. It has a lot of bends, but it is all there, I think (the pie plate, too). Someone adventurous might be able to salvage it.
Snatch this up quick before it ends and throw your makeshift gearcase in the trash. Only one bidder, it's still at $7:
| Yes that is a nice example. Complete with authentic massive dent in lower portion. Seriously though, I have aquired several of these over the years and to find one with no dings or pieces missing is hard even in the UK. I have manufactured pie-plates and rear sections for these but now if I need one I just buy it from Cycles of Yesteryear and modify it to fit. It is very easy to cut and dress these Indian copies te metal is very soft. I usualy solder some stiffeners inside to make them more rigid. The paintwork is trash and has to be redone anyway.|
| Thanks for the offer, David, but hang on to those parts like they were your own body extremeties. Actually in spite of all my whining (or is it whinging?) the case looks very good-everything matches up nicely, no dents or burst seams, it just needs paint. And after all the time and effort spent on it this far, I really want to see the #$%^ thing mounted. |
Hey, maybe when it is painted, I figure I can get the "box lining" done on the pie plate by putting the plate on a record player and just hold the brush and grin....
|hi can anyone tell me what a 1952 brooks registerd police bicycle might b worth its in perfect shape equiped with generater an lights that works with a registered police sticker on the fender someone please help thanks..|
| Trying out my new digital camera and posted a coupleof pic's of my slightly customized Superbe.|
|Thanks for the pics Robert, cool bike...esp the shorty chainguard! Do you ride on the drops that much?|
| I have not ridden it except here aound the neighborhood. |
But when riding other bikes setup with the "standard" Sports bars, I have wished for some way to get lower and chaet the wind a bit. Running into the wind on a bike setup
with upright bars wears on you after an hour or so.
So to answer your question, if I do use it for any distances at all , I may very well be using the drops on a regular basis.
|Does anyone know what a 1960 Hopper might be worth?|
| Does anyone know where I might find decals for a 1958 Rudge|
| Classic Transfers (UK) sells a set (vinyl I believe) for the mid 50s Rudge Sports.|
Check the Links section in Roll Britannia
| I have a Raleigh bike with the serial number BS37914. Sturmey-Archer hubs, back 64, front 63 - don't think they are original. Brooks saddle, rod brakes, self-generating light. The chain is totally encased in a N1 oil bathgear case - made in japan - paint matches frame perfectly and has Raleigh decal. Also, there are a few east Indian stickers on it. |
Anyone have a clue on this, cause I don't!
|Hi all. A man here in town has several NOS SA hubs for sale. You guys have told me once before which hubs are best, I forgot. Can I trouble you to please educate me once again. I know the AW's are ok, and that I should stay away from the TCW III's. Which model hubs are best, with or without coaster brake. Thanks, Kevin|
Check out Sheldon Brown's website, www.harriscyclery.com I think. Or do a google search, it'll come up. I believe he has info on various SA hubs there.
In my opinion, grab as many of those hubs as you can. They don't make them like that anymore!
| I love my TCW III! I've not had a lick of trouble with it and love the fact that it's a multi gear with a coaster brake!|
I have it on my '63 Schwinn camelback speedster, and it's fabulous!
|I, too, have had excellent luck with the TCW III hubs on my cycles. Where did they get a bad reputation? Maybe just from sheldon's experience?|
|Hi Guys. Thanks for the input on the SA hubs. Here in the Toledo, Ohio area few people care for / about the 3 speeds. I'm not talking collectors but rather people that ride bikes. I'll ask people what they are looking for. They'll tell me about what they want, just no 3 speeds. As a result 3 speed bikes are out in the trash, or sold cheaply at second hand stores or g sales. I located a nice Raleigh Sports in said manner, as an English made Foremost with an AW hub dated 12 53. To date I've several hubs, just trying to decide on the best build. Can you guys give me some ideas where to send a TCW III for an overhaul? Thanks alot. Kevin|
|Anyone have any idea where 26x1 3/8 Westrick (Raleigh- 36 spoke) pattern rims can be had? I need one to replace the aftermarket Araya Endrick someone put on my Sport. Thanks.|
| I buy all my rimms from http://www.rigida.com/#|
They have a huge range of types, Westrick being one of them.
| Wow...I forgot about these guys. There they are, stainless steel Westwood and Raleigh pattern rims in 590's, 622's and 635's. Funny how they call the 635 size 700B. Makes sense in a way.|
Rims for a lifetime!
| Yes they do have all the rims you need all be it in 36 hole drilling but be careful regarding sizes as all is not what it seems. It is best to state your order in Imperial sizes and ask for the nearest equivalent.|
|I'm going to rewire a Dynohub lighting system. The setup is simple enough - a GH6 Dynohub with wires connecting a headlight & taillight. No DBU is involved. My questions are - 1) does anyone know the correct "gauge" of double stand wire that is to be used? (got a source for some?) and, 2) does anyone have four (4) spare plug-in ferrules for the headlight switch connection. The ferrules are those little pieces that fit onto the stripped-end of the wire which then "plugs" into the switch inside the headlight. According to Tony Hadland's notes these are Sturmey Archer code (part) # GL574. They are of a bronze/brass construction. Mr. Hadland also points out that no ground is required on this setup - as opposed to the wiring with a DBU/AG/FG setup. If you can help, please respond to my email and/or here on this board.|
| This is an easy one:|
This guy in England has original NOS Sturmey-Archer wiring harnesses complete with the ferrules and all sorts.
|Yeah. Known about oldbiketrader for years. Bought from him too. Love to see him organize that "teaser" website of his so that we had some idea of his parts inventory - I suppose ebay has wreaked the incentive for many small seller's to go that route though. Have fun on those $$ lightweight "investments" Peter.|
|Peter, A sure sign of my aging - getting names mixed up more often now. Yes oldbiketrader is ok for those parts, I was thinking of oldcyclebits when I misspoke. I've been on oldbiketrader's site in the past but it slipped (nice way of saying I'm losing it!) my mind, and that site's inventory is properly listed. Thanks for the heads-up.|
| I forget the name of the owner of the OldBikeTrader site; I know he's been ill but the last time I ordered his wife handled it! Really nice folks. They have some very useful "stuff" and their prices are reasonable too. |
|I'm rather fond of oldbiketrader.co.uk, if he doesn't have it, he could probably find it for you.|
| He says "Pay attention, don't touch!"|
I do pay attention! how can I buy it if you don't let me take it down off of the wall?
I'm called ther to buy it to clean it out.
Can't buy boxes of spokes at 10.00 a box if there is only six spoke in each box!
I'm polite as I try to explain this.
Should be one final sweep through and load it up and
I'll be fine.
Money will change hands, I'll be careful not to over pay. Be careful not to forget anything. I'll try to remain calm and not go nutty. Except that this fellow drives me completely crazy.
The laughing like a crazed hyeena all the way home on the freeway, it's not good. I was fine. The haggling, I cannot take it. Just tell me what you want for all of it! The white shirted attendants will be picking thru the goodies in the car as they take me away!
Can just imagine the dialog
"Dude, You know that guy they brought in and put in B- 19 ward?
He had the chainguard for the bike I am restoring!"
"Plus, he had 60's musclebikes and rare parts!" Poor fellow cracked.
Think he's got my Whizzer parts?
"Man, this cat has it all! I'm telling you that chainguard is mint!"
As long as they don't get my keys and raid my stash!
Just one more trip and then I'll resume dealing with normal bike collectors again.
Just one more trip. More Juy Simplex derailers, you know, the 543 derailers with the little switchable thing under the little removable cover? That's all junk going for the scrap guy. Put those coffee cans down and pay attention!
Sure, folks marvel at the goodies I rescue but at what cost to ones sanity?
Now that I have 6000 pounds of old new still in packaging spokes, I'll find some rims and this way I'll have something to do other than basket weaving in the crazy house.
Everybody went so crazy over those reflectors at the last swap so much that now he's intrenched into saving them forever and I failed to reason out a deal and get them.
Wish me luck!
One last hurrah before I retire!
| Chris, I sincerly hope that you have saved your various "adventure" posts over time. They are not only edifying, but amusing as well! Well, I get a kick ouf of the most certainly. |
A book of sorts.... just need a title.
|Now if we could only get him to respond to email! LOL|
| I responded today!|
I said I do not have it but let me look.
Now that I think I do have it. E- mail me your address and I'll ship this out!
| I picked up the bike and was headed for the kerb. I looked at it and decided to put it back.|
If it could talk it would say something like: "Put me down this instant, you fool! I'm worth something, ya got me for free, whats a- matter with you?"
| The cardboard box split as I held it and spoke nipples and loose spokes fell all over. To get them carried out of his barn and into my truck and then stashed away deep in my lair and not spill some of these would be impossible for me.|
Its all straightened out now.
| Chris I must agree!|
You really need to put together a book of all your various posts and adventures in bike parts over the years! I would purchase multiple copies...
|I've noticed that some rear fenders have white rear portion while others don't. I guess the purpose of this is to enhance visibility but why is it on some bikes and not others? Was this an import thing, year or model thing? Is there a preference or rarity issue other than personal preference? Was the white paint merely applied over the regular paint almost as an afterthought? Neither of my DL-1s or Superbe have white fenders so I'm starting to feel deprived.|
| This is a wartime visibility aid. During the blackouts in the war when you weren't allowed to show a visible light or at least a bright one the bottom section of the rear mudguard (not fender, this is a UK thing remember) was paintde white to help following vehicles see you. Almost always painted in some awful paint by hand with a brush. Plenty of old roadsters over here still sporting this feature.|
A little rough, but very interesting. Upside-down trigger shifter even. Manufactured by Aberdale?
|Aberdale bicycles are generally Phillips bicycles I believe. At least mine is.|
Sure would be nice to have that dynohub...
|Not having any experience w/dynohubs, I've wondered whether they exert a drag, even when lights aren't being used?|
|No drag with dynohubs.The feature that makes them most appealing in my opinion.|
|How can there be no drag? Isn't the dynohub a generator? I'm missing something here.|
|Jack: A dynohug is esentially the front or rear hub of your wheel.The generating is internal and the power is carried to your head and tail lamps through the wires attached to the dynos as the wheel turns. Other types of generators are designed to turn through rubbing directly against your tire as it rotates thereby creating drag. These types are usually found attached to the rear seat stays and in rare cases the bottom bracket or front fork. I hope this is helpful and not confusing.|
|Above 3 mph and with no electrical load, there is no electro-magnetic drag. At some rotational alignment of the stator and rotor, there is neutral equalibrium such that if you attempt to displace the rotor a bit, the magnetic pull of the poles resists the attempt *until* you manage to rotationally displace to a position half way to the next pole at which point the attraction of the next pole becomes dominant and strong enough to "suck" the rotor into a new equalibrium position. Thus, the energy expended in resistance is completely recovered. The allure of these dynamos is in their elegance. From a cost/function engineering viewpoint, they could never have been cost effective illumination .... even in their heyday. Today, their puny beams are swamped by a decent LED unit like the Cateye el200 or el400. (Don't leave home at night without one!)|
|I am buying an all chrome 60's Raleigh from a friend.. Has anyone ever seen an all chrome Raleigh.. I haven't.. just curious as to how rare they are.|
|Through the mists of time on this very site I remember reading about all-chrome Raleighs. I think they were called "Chief's bikes"? It seems that the all-chrome was the preferred mount for the chiefs of villages throughout Asia and Africa. Chris, help me out here, I think it was you who posted that. In any case I have seen all-chrome Raleighs on e-bay, and recently chrome parts like the "pie-plate" cover for full chaincases on e-bay as well. If it's pre 1950's the chrome is of excellent quality and will probably hold up well for another 50 years.|
|There's at least two chrome Raleigh Sports here in Philly; my coworker owns a chrome Rudge w/ drilling for a fully enclosed chainguard; and have seen a chrome Raleigh with either 26 X 2 or even 28 X 2 wheels, I can remember, aside from it definitely being 2" wide.|
| How about this one? All chrome, 26 x 2 Dunlop tyres, enclosed chaincase, rear carrier, rod brakes, single speed with a freewheel, B-33 saddle, mega heavy duty stand, Nottingham headbadge, oh yeah, did I mention it's all chrome. I'm guessing it's early to mid-1960's vintage.|
Right after I bought this one a chrome DL-1 turned up on eBay. The chrome bikes are out there but I don't know what the story is behind them.
|I know the bike i am going to buy has a few dings in the fenders.. i would like to buy some.. they are like what are on Sports, Robinhoods and most raleighs.. I just got outbid on ebay for some stainless steel fenders.. does anyone know where i can find some NOS fenders?|