| Hello All|
I have just listed some interesting and useful items on ebay. Two Raleigh rear lamps and a wonderful rare Lucas gift set which would make a great Crimbo pressy
Use seller name Oldcyclebits to search
Maybe we should help pay for your car insurance too?
|I've bought from Peter before, he's a fair seller and his starting bids are not at all out of hand for the items he offers. If you know what's the least it should earn you, why bother with a a reserve, which costs extra?|
|I have also bought from Pete many times and he is very happy to answer any questions, never ripped me off. When a seller adds Paypal for payment it is an extra cost for the seller not the buyer. Try getting a money order in Sterling and see if it is cheaper, no way. He is offering this way of payment as an easier way for you to get your stuff, faster and also it is like an insurance as I think Paypal refunds your money if item is not received. I see nothing wrong with charging this fee even though Ebay does not allow it. If he is not allowed to continue doing this he has to add this into handling costs so you pay in the end. As for Pete's items they are not as high $$ as other sellers like Hilary but both are selling very hard to find stuff and there is buyers on most of the stuff they sell. All the more power to them if they can sell for high prices.|
|In all the times I've dealt with Pete, he's always delivered exactly as promised, on time, and no extra charges or fees for S & H. On several occasions Pete even threw in "extras", like wiring harness and those little copper plugs for free. No, no complaints here.|
|I too have purchased many hard to find items from Pete. I used to send cash which was kinda scary. I also used Travelers Checks in British Pounds but the amount was never exact so Pete would throw in something extra to make up the difference. He was always very fair and I have always been completely satisfied. However, I am now very glad that he accepts payment via paypal. I am more than willing to pay the little extra for the convenience.|
|I've been curious about the Paypal surcharge mentioned by British sellers. Is it simply the charge Paypal adds when a credit card is used (rather than direct bank transfer)? Or is it an extra that's solely related to the dollar-pound issue? (I've never used Paypal to England; I get my British neighbour to write me a cheque drawn on his English bank.)|
| Pete is a gent, who gives advice freely and accurately.|
the paypal thing is easy, don't like the surcharge - don't use the service!
Matthew - cash only.
| It's not just the Brit sellers David, they charge ALL sellers anywhere from 2.2 - 2.9% of the money transfered plus $0.30. These are charged to all sellers holding a Preimer account regardless of how the transfer is funded. |
To this they do charge an extra .05% to convert Dollars to Sterling of vice versa.
A Power Seller with over 8200 unique positive feedback,
|I'm new to this list and never posted anything before but I'm doing some research on a bike my brother found and I get to do some restoration. It looks like a J.C. HIGGENS made in England. The head tube badge is a decal that is very bad shape. It says Birmingham on the bottom and the top only has a "J" followed by worn out letters and ending in "S". The seat tube says guarenteed british made credex. The serial number is A18186 with 5 34 stamped under it. I was told it was one of the first bicycles to do the California mission trail. The tires were made by Trojan in USA and they were similar to today's glue-on sewups except they seem to be totally molded, not sewn together. Anyone know anything about these? By the way, it has a double sided single speed hub with different size freewheel sprockets and stamped steel brakes that still work.|
| J.C.Higgins was a name that Sears, Roebuck & Co. used for many of their sporting goods, including bikes prior to the "Free Spirit" brand. I think it was the name of a manager of that area of the company. Sears never makes anything, they just contract with others to put Sears'name on the merchendise. At one time, Sears had some very nice bikes, but then they tried to compete with Kmart, etc., and went with the low bidder.|
If your J.C.Higgens is actually spelled the way you had in your post, none of the above applies to you.
The bike was likely made by Phillips, rival to Raleigh before the merger.
Made by Phillips for Sears.
Anyways, don't let the J.C. Higgans name fool you, this is a solid good little bike. No real valuable gem but hang onto it and enjoy it.
Phillips means it is 24 T.P.I. threaded bike, not Raleigh's unique 26 T.P.I. and so, replacement parts believe it or not are out there. Need something? contact us here again on this board.
| I have a JC Higgens 3 spd english racer sturmey archer aftermarket genset very orig. stampet JC Higgens in the front sproket gessing vintage mid-lart 60's what it worth? I'm finantially tfu'ed ar|
fter divorce and I saved my entire childhood of possessions damn I got a lot of cool shit and gotta start selling help me thanks I am real
| Here is an interesting site I found while looking for info on ZIL bicycles, http://www.fa-technik.adfc.de/Komponenten/Felge/FelgeHersteller.html|
This is one of the best rim size charts I have seen, albeit in German. The links at the top and bottom of the page are full of interesting stuff as well. Incidently there are web sites that do page translation on line if anyone has problems with the language.
How do I get to the schwinn forum to check out the Rudge? I don't know where or what the schwinn forum is. thanks
| To RUDGE FYI:|
|There's an ad on the Schwinn FS forum for a NOS 52 Rudge. Not mine, just thought someone here might be interested.|
|I have a English framed bike, with a Head Badge that reads "Red Flash", it has a perry hub with a code of 40 03 and England stamped in the casing. Does anyone have any idea the age of the bike. I'm only guessing the 40 represents the year?? The hub is also a single speed.|
|The 40 is the number of spoke holes---sam|
| I recall reading a post here some time ago about "spit-shined roadsters" and Kiwi shoe polish. Anyone care to elaborate on the way it is done properly? I assume that this only applies to the black roadsters, not other colors.|
| Yes, I read that dodge here as well. I believe it was P C who posted it. I tried it and it works very well on black paint. However I had previously been using stove blacking to retore old paint and this works even better. You can still buy this stuff in the UK made by Zebo. It used to contain lead in the old days but now I think there is a synthetic compound in it. It is probable that a similar product would be available in the USA.|
|No that was me..You can use any color that matches your bike resonably well, however it works absolutely wonderful on black bikes. You clean the bike, then apply the shoe polish with a cloth and rub it in. Let it set a while, a few minutes'll do. Then you simply rub it off/polish/buff it with a clean soft cloth. You're gonna flip over how nice the bike will look afterwards, especially a black bike. DAMN! I've used brown on my brown/coffee/whatever "Sports" and it worked more or less exactly the same. I also tried it on a green bike, and it was OK. Give it a shot!|
|By the way, try some furnature polish on a faded black frame for a shock. I used it on my old Robinhood, and buffed it, and it totally broke the haze and the bike almost looked good as new. If you used Kiwi shoe polish afterwards it would be totally super-cow-dow-shus!|
| Apologies, old age, memory etc.|
How does the stove blacking work? Do you put the bike in an oven? I'm lookin' for a way to sort of cover up the blemishes and scratches on my black Raleigh without doing touch-up paint.
| Can the furniture polish and shoe polishes be used over the decals on a black? I would guess that should be avoided. What brand of furniture polish do you recomend. |
Also never used it on a bike but Meguier's Car polishes (esp. the 3 step system) work wonders on car finishes. I'd watch the decals, but would expect similar results on a bike, any color.
| I've actually started to take a different approach to paint restoration. Initially, I went out and bought about the best products that money can buy and rubbed/polished like crazy. Yes, the black came back wonderfully on my DL-1 and shone better than new; however, it made the blemishes and scratches only more obvious and wore the paint thin. In bright sunlight, the defects really stand out against the shiny paint. Now, I'm thinking that perhaps the better approach is to preserve the original patina of the bike, perhaps a simple cleaning and waxing (haven't yet tried Kiwi shoe polish) would do. Maybe I rubbed too hard, but I think overdoing it results in something less than desirable. Now, I'm wishing for a product to make the paint look more dull, if you can believe that!|
| Hi Andrei,|
No you do not need to use an oven to use stove blacking. It's a black paste that is used to shine up solid fuel stoves and cooking ranges. It's been around for over 100 years. The brand I use is ZEBO. You just wipe it on and polish off. It fills all the scratches and puts a nice patina on the paint surface. It even fills up patches where the paint has come off completely. You have got to polish it very hard if you want a high gloss shine though. It leaves a finish which is not quite matt and not quite gloss. It lasts a long time as well, about 18 months on a bike I use regularly. It's cheap to buy and a tube lasts a long time.
|Of course everyone's ideal bike varies according to taste and need. But for me and what I use for a short daily commute, a lightweight roadster is ideal. Although I enjoy the rolling industrial art that is a Superbe or Tourist, they represent only the esthetic portion of my dream bike. The single-speed Raleigh Int'l I've equipped with Bluemels, upright bars and B-72 comes closer to my ideal. Remember the Sterling 5? 531 frame, fenders, 5-speed SA, and cantilevers. Yes, it was expensive. It was also low in maintenance, light, responsive , elegant and relatively rare. My next step will be to build a 700C wheel with a 4 or 7-speed Nexus hub for Int'l. Then, where to find that chain guard...|
|I myself built up a Raleigh International frame, upright bars, B-33 saddle, and rare 1950's Vousay aluminum fenders + rear rack, Mibeck German light set-up. It's a 25" frame thats impressive looking, rides like a dream and only about 27 lbs.|
|The International frame is hard to beat for city-sport biking. I'm curious to know what type of gear-train you're currently running and whether you'd rather run something else?|
| I have a similar project underway. Having recently moved to a *seriously* hilly town I'm interested in light weight and a wider range of gears than the SA AW provides. |
(Some of the hills here are tough to walk up, let alone cycle. One can gear way down, but then the top gear isn't very high. For example, if one uses a 40-tooth chainring with a 20-tooth sprocket on the AW hub, high gear is only 71 inches development.)
I have a Dawes frame which I will build up using alloy components, including the Nitto "North Road" bars which Sheldon supplies. For the gearing, for a number of reasons (including (i) no brakes and (ii) the over-locknut dimension) I'm looking at the SRAM Spectro P5 (5-speed) hub. Does anyone out there have experience with this hub? I'd appreciate any comments on reliability, efficiency, and so on.
| Frank, before you hang up that AW laced wheel, try out the "Hybrid" option. Remove the circ-clip and cog from the AW. Find a 7 spd Shimano Hyperglide cluster, and choose two cogs. These cogs have six splines as opposed to the AW's three, with a file remove 3 splines and pop the cogs on the AW using one of the orginal spacing rings. I've had good results using a Huret Allvit derailleur, but then they are cheap and easy and have an adapter claw. |
One conversion on my daughter's RSW 16 and one conversion on a FG equipped Raleigh sports, with a new 7 spd chain the shifting is quite good
| Edward, Thanks for the suggestion. I guess this is the original approach... and the one used on the modern SRAM "3x7" hybrid gear system.|
|Anyone with information on the age and collectibility of a Hercules Sport bicycle? It's a single speed bike with dropped handle bars, and has what seems to be some schwinn parts: grips and brake calipers. Curious as to what I may have here. Brent|
Not my auction, the best saddle bag I have ever seen
| Sturmey 3 speed pulley -- good used condition $3|
Green/White fenders from Raleigh colt. ok condition $20.
|I'm looking 4 a nice fixed hub from the 50's in good condition - alloy shell a +. I have a woman's Humber Sports (you've got a guy's Sports - now get one for your significant other), SW hub, Dynos, DBU, lights, etc. - thought I'd pitch a trade before eBay calls. Pictures likely depending on my familiarity with the list member. Ditto for roll britannia listees.|
|That's a woman's Humber Sports, AND I have Dynos, DBU, SW hub, etc. in addition to the bike.|
|I've discovered a company in the UK which imports classic roadster-style bicycles made in India. The bike brand is Hi Bird and they are manufactured by a family owned Indian company in partnership with India Rubber Ltd. Price in the UK is 150 English pounds, about $195 U.S. They come equipped with a 6v dynamo full light set, enclosed chain case, rod brakes, bell, leather (B-66 brooks style)seat, tool bag and luggage rack. They are one speed only. 28" wheels, 22" frame size for the male frame bike. Classic roadster geometry. Bikes look great in the company photos. Questions: Has anyone purchased one of these? I've heard bad reports on the quality of bicycles made in India. The UK company importing these to Britain states that these bicycles are built to BS9001 standard (whatever that means). I'd like to hear from anyone with experience or knowledge of these bikes, called the Hi Bird Roadster. Thanks much.|
| A friend of mine bought one of these because he was too lazy to restore the old BSA roadster I gave him. When it arrived he called me to come and look at it. It was the roughest piece of junk that I have seen. The chrome was already pitting and the paint was peeling off. The front brake stirrup was deformed to fit the guides and kept popping out. I did my best to fix it for him but he ended up selling it to some poor unsuspecting person on Ebay I think. The only usable parts on it was the full chaincase and the mudguards. Everything else is of such poor quality steel as to be very brittle. Incidently, whilst running my hand over the frame I cut my finger on a 'snob' of braze that had been left on one of the lugs. Perhaps this was a Friday afternoon machine but it was still pretty poor. I think it best if you see one befor you spend any money.|
|The more I work on my old Raleighs, the more I appreciate the industrial technology which made it possible to produce such a quality product. From the chrome plating, metalurgy, paintwork, engineering and workmanship, down to the nuts and bolts. If not abused and neglected, they will last more than a lifetime and be worth more than you paid originally. A good used example is the best way to go in spite of they're getting harder to find.|
|Not to beat a dead horse, but do everything you can to AVOID Indian made roadster bicycles. Listen to me.....|
If you have your heart set on getting a roadster bicycle then I suggest you join the V-CC, http://www.v-cc.org.uk/. It will cost you about £18.00 per year. When you receive your first issue of News and Views turn straight to the small ads at the back and with £150.00 to spend you will be able to buy a couple of roadsters. Admitedly they will need some TLC but it will be worth it. You will see adds for all the bits you will need and be able to read about lots of very interesting cycle related articles. Money well spent I think. But do not buy an Indian made Bicycle you will regret it! Remember what our illustrious Duke of Edinburgh said about manufacturing and Indians! Whilst I do not agree that everything made in India is bad, their export bicycles are. From personal experience, articles made by local craftsmen in the Punjab are some of the best craftsmanship that you will find. Factory made stuff is however, notoriously bad. I don't think that mass production suits the Indian psyche. Quality control is not one of their strengths.
|I second Tim's motion...|
|How do roadsters compare to sports frame bikes (like the 1950s Sports for sale here) in terms of riding characteristics, weight etc.? Were roadsters not originally intended for rural customers? I plan on restoring a roadster, but if I can fit a full chain cover on a sports frame I might consider using one of those instead|
| Modern sports frames are indeed "sportier"...turn quicker, steeper angles, lighter etc. However some 50's (and earlier)"sports" models have very slack geometry, not unlike their roadster breathren. Subsequently they have a similar ride.|
Don't bother putting a full chain case on a bike that wasn't meant to have one...pain in the butt and non-original IMHO
| Sports came in all varieties... originally sans ANY gearcase or chainguard and with lightweight steel or celluioid mudguards.. a true "sports" machine. Later variants came with hockey stick chainguards and enclosed gearcases were stock issue for the "tourist" and "superbe" variants as well until 1956 at least in the USA. So gearcases are very much prototypical for a Sports.... although like Warren I think a hockey stick guard is more suited and a lot less work. Unless you get stuck with one of the hockey sticks that is hopelessly bent or misformed or rattles like no ones business. |