OldRoads.com

This is an archive of Vintage Bicycle Information.
For current Discussions, go to our main site: OldRoads.com

If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.

If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.

Archived: English Roadsters







AGE / VALUE:   two imports posted by: dave on 2/12/2003 at 2:34:20 PM
I picked up two European imports yesterday at the thrift store ... one is a Wulf rod-brake bike, 28" alloy rims! Apparently from Netherlands, '63 SA AW hub, cool locking mechanism on back wheel, had a full chaincase at some point but only the lip/rim is left. Decal on back fender says Cycle Imports Den Haag.
Second bike is women's 26" wheeled bike from Belgium -- Bayard, with a UK Gear Co Ltd shifter and a "B Type 6, UK Gear Co, Birmingham" rear hub (sounds like a Hercules maybe).
Both are in rough shape but should eventually return to the road ... anyone seen these before?


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   two imports posted by Matthew on 2/12/2003 at 7:55:58 PM
That's a hercules hub!

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   two imports posted by dave on 2/13/2003 at 1:00:40 PM
... is the "B" series of Hercules hubs REALLY made by Hercules or are they SA internals with a Hercules shell? I also have a Hercules A-9 hub on my Hercules rod brake bike.
Anyone know more details on these hubs and how to date them?

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   two imports posted by dave on 2/13/2003 at 1:00:57 PM
... is the "B" series of Hercules hubs REALLY made by Hercules or are they SA internals with a Hercules shell? I also have a Hercules A-9 hub on my Hercules rod brake bike.
Anyone know more details on these hubs and how to date them?

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   two imports posted by dave on 2/13/2003 at 1:00:57 PM
... is the "B" series of Hercules hubs REALLY made by Hercules or are they SA internals with a Hercules shell? I also have a Hercules A-9 hub on my Hercules rod brake bike.
Anyone know more details on these hubs and how to date them?

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   two imports posted by dave on 2/13/2003 at 1:00:57 PM
... is the "B" series of Hercules hubs REALLY made by Hercules or are they SA internals with a Hercules shell? I also have a Hercules A-9 hub on my Hercules rod brake bike.
Anyone know more details on these hubs and how to date them?

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   two imports posted by humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 2/13/2003 at 9:33:35 PM
The Hercules badged hubs were made in a another location. (I believe) I think in Birmingham. Not made by Sturmey-Archer in their plant. However the Hercules hubs are exact copies of the Sturmey-Archer, and the parts interchange between the two.
The Hercules hubs innards are machined and last longer than the Sturmey's do. Solid steel parts inside the Hercules. The hub cones are also way better, they're thicker and don't wear out as soon. That can be said for the whole hub! Hercules hubs also continued to use the screw type threaded driver long after Sturmey-Archer went to the 3 splined type. This driver interchanges with the newer 3 prong/ spline types and so you can use a modern deraileur cluster like Sheldon Brown did in his multigear project he wrote about at his web page.Go to Sheldonbrown.com and find the section where he talks about threaded drivers and find the article. It's there I just don't know the exact address. He tells how to do a conversion with these drivers. People use a Huret Alvit derailer and a 3, 4 or 5, speed derailer cluster (and of course Sheldon went higher because he's clever)
Sturmey- Archer offered an alloy shell hub and so the Hercules innards will fit in the Sturmey- Archer hub shell. Hercules never offered an alloy shell.
The Hercules trigger shifters were diffrent than the Sturmey- Archer types. They were not copies rather thought given over improvements. They have a character all their own. The gear trigger cable is interchangable after a point. Early on, these were diffrent but soon were standardized. I have no idea how to date these hubs. This is some factory date code that is lost to time. Until somebody who was there or knows this table speaks up. Don't hold your breath on this but I hope I am wrong. What happened to the entire plant of machinery that made these hubs after Raleigh got ahold of Hercules and it's parent company Phillips? I'd like to know where it went, what happened. The details.
You can read the Sturmey-Archer story by Tony Hadland and see what he says on this subject. Go to Hadland.net Tony's site. Frank Berto's: The Dancing Chain, History and developement of the derailer bicycle. book is highy recommended too and I mentioned Sheldon Brown already.
Dancing chain covers this stuff but is primarily about deraiulers. Buy the book, collect the old stuff. Have fun searching.
What I said here is from my own experience with these Hercules hubs. You should read and explore this topic yourself.

I have seen "Brampton" marked parts that say India and so I think that the Hercules stuff went to some country overseas perhaps. I don't know.
I love all this stuff!






WANTED:   Mudguards for Lenton Clubman posted by: P.C. Kohler on 2/12/2003 at 1:40:03 AM
HELP!

My newly acquired 1948 Lenton Clubman has replacement black celluloid mudguards.

She needs the proper WHITE ones... anyone out there have a pair, new or decent used condition, they want to sell or indeed trade for the black pair? For 26" wheels.

Thanks.

P.C. Kohler







AGE / VALUE:   group vote posted by: sam on 2/12/2003 at 1:03:24 AM
Using Sheldon Brown as my inspreation(see my mead on his web site) I bid and won an old Mead frame.http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2157571209 The question I'd like to put before this group is: would it be O.K. to post questions,updates.& get advise from this group on this project even though this is NOT an English Roadester?This project somewhat falls between the lines,too new for HiWheelers,too old for ballooners,Too high for Kustons/lowriders,And too heavy for roadies.If this is not something proper to decuss here ,No problem,Ya'll decide--sam


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   group vote posted by Chris on 2/12/2003 at 8:54:29 PM
Im not Vin, but because this has 28 inch wheels and is representative of American bicycles that had 28 inch wheels I would say yes.
Go for it.

This section covers old bikes with 28 inch wheels and where else would you find enough interest?
It would be great to shed light on the cool 28 inch wheel bikes that were everywhere in American streets back in the 1920's and it would be an interesting change from English Raleigh's.
I vote yes.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   group vote posted by Ed on 2/13/2003 at 4:32:09 PM
By all means, I also vote yes,but still never bored with the old Raleighs etc.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   group vote posted by ken on 2/13/2003 at 7:10:43 PM
Sam, I have a ca. 1920 28" Mead Pathfinder, as you know, and I will read with interest anything you post concerning such. P.S.: this discussion group is the best!






WANTED:   WANTED RALEIGH ROADSTER 50'S posted by: ron on 2/11/2003 at 10:18:59 PM
must have enclosed chain guard and 28 inch wheels


   RE:WANTED:   WANTED RALEIGH ROADSTER 50'S posted by Mark R. on 2/12/2003 at 2:22:00 PM
Ron,
That is exactly the type of bike we are all looking for! Did you look in the "Bikes for sale" section? There is a roadster in there for sale, no full chaincase, but it is at a good price, and you could find a chaincase later.






AGE / VALUE:   Kustom rodesters posted by: sam on 2/10/2003 at 11:26:00 PM
I guess nothing excites us better than a great(restored)early(30s to 50s) roadester-----but I find it interesting in the number of post on kustomizing a roadester.Maybe a winter bike,using painted parts,or a Paratrooper to fold and carry.Add cyclo sprockets for more gears.Fixed gear sports.Alum rims.Cro-mo tubing for a frame!


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Kustom rodesters posted by JimW. on 2/11/2003 at 5:49:50 PM
I agree, Sam. And the great number of marques using extremely similar designs and equippage leads to all sort of
"Ghost Restorations". "Robin Hood" is a great brand name for a Nottingham bike, but "Will Scarlett" would be a great one, too. And of course a bike with that name would look just like all the others of its kind, except for bright red instead of black in the paint scheme.

As these were the original "comfort bikes", a modern, more lightweight version which retained the classic look would probably be a really popular bike. Kinda hip, too. Probably want a Nexus7 in the rear, though, to be in fashion. Wasn't there a Sturmey 5-speed? The Indians are probably replicating it by now.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Kustom rodesters posted by Mark R. on 2/11/2003 at 7:26:45 PM
I had been trying to get in touch with the poeple in China who made the Forever roadsters, because I feel that some of their bikes would sell very well here if they simply made a few simple changes: better pedals and screws, a taller frame, the installation of a three speed hub(even if it were a Shimano), etc...They make a really nice "light roadster" that is a dead ringer for a forties "Sports", even has a full chiancase. I can imagine that if they added a few alloy parts, a little better engineering, and a very few very minor other things, that we could all have a bike like we want for a very good price.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Kustom rodesters posted by paul on 2/12/2003 at 12:23:42 AM
as an owner of 1963 Raleigh Sports in cranberry, all original and a 1965 Rudge in oxblood also all original, I am definitely a fan of brit roadsters. However, I also have a Forever(not for sale), it's decent enough but I don't care for the 3 speed derailleur. I also have a 1999 Columbia Pioneer(Taiwan) it's a full fendered roadster with rack, upright seating and 3 speed Shimano Nexus. Low miles always kept indoors, For Sale at $125.00 you pick up in Boston area. paul






AGE / VALUE: One is being offered! The sane way to remove a Raleigh fixed cup! posted by: Chris on 2/10/2003 at 10:13:20 PM
After checking out the bottombracket taps and other dies I looked at the other items for sale and guess what?
E-bay item#2158741894 Workshop tools
He says it's Cyclo and British Britool stuff. British Brittool made tools for Raleigh and this particular tool is the bottom bracket removal tool for use with the Raleigh type bottom bracket!
Now anybody who has been driven nuts trying to remove a Raleigh fixed bottom bracket cup knows the trouble it is to remove. THIS IS THE EXACT TOOL THAT YOU NEED, BY THE ORIGINAL TOOL MAKER!
Once again,these turn up so very rarely. If you are going to have a stable of Raleigh cycles then this particular tool is a must have.
(Not my auction, no relation to seller)







AGE / VALUE:   Pedal treads posted by: Jim on 2/10/2003 at 5:56:33 PM
Did someone locate a source of treads for the older rebuildable type Raleigh pedals ? Thanks, Jim







AGE / VALUE:   Humber on the bay posted by: Warren on 2/10/2003 at 5:10:53 PM
A nice little womens rod brake number...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2158623907&category=420

Should clean up well...I'm surprised it doesn't have the bifurcated fork. My '54 model does.


   RE:AGE / VALUE: Humber on the bay posted by P.C. Kohler on 2/10/2003 at 5:47:08 PM
Wait a sec.... Raleigh fork, heron's crest transfers on it, a Heron's crest lamp bracket, a Heron chainwheel... methinks the only thing "Humber" about this is the chainguard. I can't ascertain the headbadge, if there is one.

A Humber of this era would have the Humber dual fork with the chrome flat caps, the brass headbadge and the little men chainwheel. Or was this machine assembled at Nottingham at 4.52 pm the Friday before a Bank Holiday weekend?

Still, a nice machine, just new enough to have chromed rod-brakes bits now all rusty of course!

P.C. Kohler

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Humber on the bay posted by Chris on 2/10/2003 at 9:26:58 PM
Humber bikes came with and without the double blade Humber fork.For awhile you could have either fork it seems. This varied for awhile and for a good while, after Raleigh got ahold of Humber they were still glorious. Then it went downhill.
One of the type of forks was intended for export only.Although I am not sure which one that was. If you go to the Raleigh, Rudge, Humber exploded diagrams here you'll see two forks offered on the Humber.
How come you never, ever see these in the Royal Blue color?
Never ever in the 28 inch model rod brake roadsters either. I know they are out there. I have not seen this bike yet but I'll bet it's black, right?
Humbers rarely pop up on e- bay always literature, literature,literature!

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Humber on the bay posted by Chris on 2/10/2003 at 9:51:02 PM
Yup,it's black. That's a Raleigh with a Humber chainguard. That rear tail light is interesting and unusual. Something I would polish up with Kitt Scratch out and it would gleam like it did when it left Birmingham. That headlamp looks unusual as there were diffrent types but that flat spot could be a dent too. Am I seeing a top mounted dime shaped switch or not? They were Bakelite, some of those switches. Pictures are so- so, so I'm not sure.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Humber on the bay posted by Warren on 2/10/2003 at 11:39:25 PM
Doh!! All that Raleigh stuff and I never even looked at the details...obviously. I just looked at the forks and lights.

BTW, although my Humber is dark blue, it looks very black under most light. Is that the Royal Blue Chris?

When did Raleigh take over Humber? Don't tell me...4.52 pm the Friday before a Bank Holiday weekend?

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Humber on the bay posted by P.C. Kohler on 2/11/2003 at 1:48:54 AM
Well close... how about the dark days of the worldwide Depression: early 1932. Actually, the slump helped cycle sales as people gave up public transport and private cars and cycled more than ever.

Now, this Raleigh/Humber whathaveyou dates c. 1954, that year the following machines (UK market) had the "duplex" fork:

Cob no. 311
Cob Tourist no. 312
City Tourist no. 319
Tourist no. 302
Royal Cob Tourist no. 313
Humber Police no. 304

and guess what... every one of these is a rod-braked machine!

Now... Humber were unusual in that their North American export machines had different names and specs. And there are cable-braked Humber Sports (as the Elf was called in the USA) with the duplex fork. One, 1954, is sitting about eight inches from me. Black, alas.

Humber Royal Blue is really BLUE by the way; no mistaking it for black since it's not navy blue.

P.C. Kohler, whose nearby Humber belongs alas to a neighbour

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Humber on the bay posted by Chris on 2/11/2003 at 1:55:35 AM
Your dark blue would be Humber Royal Blue yes. Raleigh took over Humber like in 1932 I think. Sheldon gives the exact date at his site. The Raleigh branded bikis were first of course but Humber and Rudge bikes were not B grade by any means. It was all grouped together. Raleigh, Humber and Rudge. They were all quality bikes with only decals and forks and chainwheel cranks being diffrent. Raleigh offered the Humber Royal Blue color.Rudge had their own house color that was carried on by Raleigh for a little while.It was an orange or a Burnt Orange I think. I could be wrong on that. Raleigh picked up a lot of names and makes before the merger with B.C.C. British Cycle Corporation and Tube Investments. After that they had even more. But for a stretch there they ran Raleigh Humber and Rudge and they were all basically equals. Then about 1960-1962 in there they reversed this and a ton of names were retired. Still owned but not used.
However, that's not quite true exactly. In some parts of the world the B.S.A. name was used and I saw an article entitled: Retro Humber still a hit. I believe it was written from an South African or India perspective.
The guy was astride a Humber bike and said how it was still selling well but it was made in India? I never figured out how to contact the guy or how to buy another "new" Humber. I had no idea they were still being made. It was exciting to see that article and I was glad it still is a good seller! We have seen 28 inch orange colored Humber bikes from Brazil. Our pal Mario pointed that out to us back awhile ago. Raleigh South Africa was bought out by it's management but I have not heard what is happening there. What they make and what the product looks like. This all is a big thing to be chewing on. Dispite many factories in diffrent parts of the world making the bikes still, replacement parts have not been easy to find. I would rather have a Raleigh Humber or Rudge than any of the commuter bikes they sell today.
That bike I found at the kerb is called a commuter bike and it even has a white rear mudguard stripe but a good look at it and the rack and the lights and the bike in general tells me it is a piece of junk. I 'm giving it to a mechanic pal. This thing does not deserve to be called that not compared to the Raleigh stuff.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Humber on the bay posted by Chris on 2/11/2003 at 2:03:36 AM
I was wrong. P.C. is right. The Humber blue is very blue and very lovely. The Humber Royal Elf was offered in this blue.
Wow, two shades of blue here then.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Humber on the bay posted by P.C. Kohler on 2/11/2003 at 2:17:18 AM
Humbers live! They are still the biggest name in traditional roadsters (ballon tyre) in South Africa, Rhodesia (Zimbabwe to some) and East Africa and they are Indian-made. Mangla Industries (India) still sells replacement duplex forks for 28" wheel machines! If you do a Google search for Humber bicycles, there is a recent article in a South African paper about Humbers.

When I visited South Africa off and on the early to mid 1980s, all the cycle messengers in Cape Town had Humbers: single speed, rod-brakes, no chainguards (unheard of in Africa) etc. So I say: great, get thee to a cycle shop. But.. this was Zuid-Afrika and cycle shops in white areas had what? Spandex and ten speeds. All the cool roadsters were sold in the black townships.

P.C. Kohler






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Cyclo Tools posted by: Tom on 2/10/2003 at 12:14:31 AM
These are just what everyone on this site needs. Tools for rethreading BB forks. These and a few other tools from the same guy. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2158743191&category=420


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Cyclo Tools posted by Chris on 2/10/2003 at 10:08:28 PM
Snap it up! These can get pricey and you don't see this stuff offered very often and having these on hand is essential.
Cyclo made a huge and wonderful assortment of cycle workshop tools! Just wonderful! You never see much of it offered!
I feel that the tool collecting is more difficult that finding many of the bicycles.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Gazelle Roadster posted by: Tom on 2/10/2003 at 12:01:42 AM
Interesting Gazelle roadster on ebay. Would this be Sturmey Archer rod operated drum brakes. Would be a nice ride. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6719&item=2402997129&rd=1







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   BSA Paratrooper bike posted by: Tom on 2/9/2003 at 11:55:42 PM
Chris
Is this what you need. Bsa Para bike. It is rough but you want to do some customizing to it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=420&item=2158785680&rd=1


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:BSA Paratrooper bike posted by Chris on 2/11/2003 at 9:49:07 PM
Thats it!
The brakes work well on these. It's a confortable, enjoyable riding bike.






AGE / VALUE:   e- By item #2157692439 posted by: Chris on 2/9/2003 at 8:10:29 PM
E- bay item #2157692439 Sturmey- Archer N.O.S.Pulley Assys Hsj520 162 P.C.S.
Not my auction, no relation to seller.

162 pieces? AWESOME!
Now that's the way to find these parts! Forget this finding one or two here and there and over a few years gathering together twenty or so.
No, go for the big haul! Find a whole huge box! Have pulleys everyplace. Yes! This is what I love to see. Whole huge boxes full! Yes!Yes! Excellent!
Bring in boxes and take everything in the place!!
The usual question is where did this guy find so many of these pulleys? Most shops don't stock this many. Somebody found a wharehouse stash. This is the way I love to do this, by the box full! Hey you'll never need a pulley ever again.
I'm interested to see what this auction will end at. Oh my, what else was there?


   RE:AGE / VALUE: e- By item #2157692439 posted by P.C. Kohler on 2/9/2003 at 11:08:05 PM
Hmmm... pulleys are swell things but all my machines date from the all metal era.

Me, I want to see a box of 162:

1) Raleigh Industries grey "torpedo" grips
2) dynohub headlamp and tail lamp bulbs
3) RI rubber pedal rubbers
4) 1950 vintage 26" Westrick stainless rims
5) 1950 vintage 28" Westwood stainless rims
6) NOS Dunlop Roadster tyres made in Gt. Britain
7) rubber-mounted rear reflectors
8) black 1950's RI frame pumps
9) Britannialloy white celluloid mudguards with spearpoint extension.
10)assorted Brooks saddle bags

Is that so much to ask? Heck, I'd settle for a half a dozen of each....

P.C. Kohler






MISC:   The bulletproof AW - and lubrication Q posted by: Dewane on 2/9/2003 at 7:14:20 AM
Hi all,

I recently had to rebuild an SA AW hub, it sounded like there was sand in it. I opened up both sides of it, and squirted WD40 in the hub, and it sounds a lot better.

What surprised me was the condition of the bearings after I unscrewed both sides of the hub. Bright, shiny, and as far as I could tell, in perfect condition. The splines used for holding the sprocket to the hub were also in perfect condition.

This is hard for me to believe, that a hub 40 years old should be in such perfect shape. I've worked on a 1973 BMW motorcycle and after 80,000 miles the splines on the rear wheel were shot. Only way to replace the splines is by breaking off the huge, Empire State Building-like rivets off the assembly on the rear wheel and buying a new one or sourcing an old one.

I do have one question: I glopped some good-quality (Bel-Ray blue) motorcycle grease onto the bearing races on each side of the hub. Was this a huge mistake? It seems as if these haven't been exactly exposed to the elements for 40 years, but they could probably do with more lubrication than the light sewing machine oil I usually put into SA hubs. I can't really see how this would be a problem, but I leave it to the epicyclic community for the final answer.

Thanks

Dewane


   RE:MISC:   The bulletproof AW - and lubrication Q posted by Chris on 2/9/2003 at 8:27:11 PM
The motorcycle is put to higher stress than the cycle hub.
Still the Sturmey-Archer hub will last a long while if kept in proper adjustment.

   RE:MISC:   The bulletproof AW - and lubrication Q posted by Warren on 2/9/2003 at 11:59:11 PM
Hi Dewane...two things. One is that I'm not surprised about the AW. They are bombproof. Grease is OK for bearings but a light machine oil (other than 3-in1) is also needed.

And two...so are the BMW drivetrains bombproof and I'll wager that the rear splines on that Beemer have at least double that mileage...it could have gone round twice easily. Also, the most likely thing to fail on a Beemer is the speedo. I've got a '72 and a '77 and both have more mileage than that and both have at least 80% of their teeth left on the splines. My friend has 196,000 miles on a 75 R90/6 and is still on the original splines.

Of course the splines can be destroyed if the owners never, ever put fifty cents worth of grease on them. It's hard to believe since it is standard procedure to do this at every rear tire change at any BMW dealer in the world. It's possible...and unforgiveable.


   RE:RE:MISC:   The bulletproof AW - and lubrication Q posted by Dewane on 2/10/2003 at 6:20:35 PM
Hi, thanks for the reply. The hub works great, I adjusted it with a little bit of play and the cranks still turn forward somewhat while freewheeling, so I'm assuming I put too much grease in it. I did put about 1/2 teaspoon of sewing maching oil in the hub after cleaning it out.

I'm not worrying about it any more (can you say obsession? I can.)

As for the BMW: it was an R75/5 that had been sitting outside for a couple of years, and many, many things weren't attended to when I got it. I was riding on the freeway at about 100 mph and got what's called the "hobby horse" effect - the front suspension compressing to the max, then the rear suspension compressing to the max. It just about bucked me off. Closer inspection showed a break in the frame, where the seat attaches. One of those "school of hard knocks/stupidity" type of things.






AGE / VALUE:   Commuter bike, that's a wide term posted by: humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 2/8/2003 at 9:51:02 PM
I looked up and there were two bikes! I have not found anything in so long it isn't funny. I immediately went into shock and froze right up. I stood there and all my hoping that they were enclosed chaincase Raleigh's faded away as what they were came into view. A old Sears derailer bike and a commuter type bike with lights and a rear rack. 650 B alloy rims, new and modern. Because it's new and modern I'll have to look it over quite well to see if it's junk or not.
Well..... It's junk yes? I don't know, never heard of it and as I type I forgot the name.
But, there are parts that I'll want and I'll have to have a pal look it over and sit and keep quiet while he gives me his opinion. We'll analyze the whole thing and then for parts. I have never seen these strange presta valve cap adaptor things before and of course those alloy rims have project potental.
Perhaps the thing should not be broken up and kept in one piece, returned to working condition and sold? Im don't know just yet. Yes, sell it, get it out of here!!
We went into town today and I am going to have to find a B.S.A. Paratrooper bike and hop it up. I have gone without one of these too long and I'm really excited about getting into it and getting it going.
You see, with parking filled to capacity I can drive and then unfold the thing and ride through town and see all the shops and not go crazy jockying for a parking space. Everybody was circling like vultures looking for parking spaces and the only ones available is off limits because it is for handicapped acess only. So we parked and walked and walked. I want a folding 26 inch wheel paratrooper bike.
I can tool about in town and not be aggrivated having to walk. I'd rather ride and see everything.Town was packed with traffic that was positively looney and meter maid police on the prowl. What happened to the old sears 10 speed? It'll be gone long before trash day I promise you. It's already been picked up I just know it.


   speakin of Paratrooper bikes posted by sam on 2/9/2003 at 3:34:27 AM
Have ya'll seen the new American Paratrooper? www.militarybikes.com . Hank promised to let me test ride one when it cames in! And sorry for the Non-English post .

   RE:speakin of Paratrooper bikes posted by JimW. on 2/11/2003 at 6:43:34 PM
Their "Urban" one looks pretty civilized, but I fail to see the need for a 21-speed deralleur shifted rear. For an urban bike, 3 speeds suffice.






MISC:   Raleigh Headbadge Removal posted by: karl on 2/8/2003 at 2:55:53 AM
I am in the process of restoring a 1949 Clubman and was wondering if anyone has developed a good way to remove the headbadge off of Raleighs. Unlike schwinns and the like there are no screws. I need to remove the badge for painting and would like to reuse it. Any help appreciated. Thanks


   RE:MISC:   Raleigh Headbadge Removal posted by Edward in Vancouver on 2/8/2003 at 3:56:32 AM
Get a big x-acto utility knife with the snap-off blades. Wedge the blade inbetween the badge and the tube resting the blade ontop of the rivet. Tap the knife with a hammer and the blade will cut through the rivet. Repeat with the other rivets. The hard part will be putting the badge back on. I do know Nick at Lloyds has them, but don't know if anyone in North America has them.
Sounds like you've got a nice bike.

   RE:MISC:   Raleigh Headbadge Removal posted by Stacey on 2/8/2003 at 11:12:56 AM
Karl, using a piece of cloth or a chunk of old inner tube... something to protect the head tube. Take a long screw driver and use it to lever against the piece of the 'rivet' that protrudes inside the head tube. A couple of light bumps should be enough to lift the head of the rivet off the headbadge enough for you to get a pair of diagonal cutters in there to lift it the rest of the way out from the outside. Done slowly and carefully enough you won't damage anything and should be able to re-use the rivets to install the bagde after painting.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Raleigh Headbadge Removal posted by humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 2/8/2003 at 10:25:39 PM
You're all good people, wanting to remove a headbadge and then replace it after a paint job. Yes. cultured, intelligent, wonderful people. Why, I have seen headbadges painted over with blue paint that filled in the grooves on the badge. Just slop that paint all over that badge and onto tires too. Not this bunch here, Nope not the folks here. That's wonderful.

   RE:MISC:   Raleigh Headbadge Removal posted by Jim on 2/8/2003 at 11:31:39 PM
After you remove the fork, take a long thin chisel (or a screwdriver of similar description) and a hammer and knock the back of the rivet off. No possible damage to the badge or the headtube.

   RE:MISC:   Raleigh Headbadge Removal posted by karl on 2/10/2003 at 6:20:37 PM
Thanks for the info.