OldRoads.com

This is an archive of Vintage Bicycle Information.
For current Discussions, go to our main site: OldRoads.com

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which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.

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which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.

Archived: English Roadsters







AGE / VALUE:   Nice hub! posted by: Warren on 6/18/2003 at 5:13:28 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2179976893&category=420

I would love this hub...for $50, mind you.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Nice hub! posted by David on 6/18/2003 at 8:16:23 PM
But not for $195 (plus bidding...) ?






AGE / VALUE:   Gray plastic rear lamp posted by: Jeff R on 6/18/2003 at 1:35:36 AM
Check out this gray plastic tail lamp on ebay. I think this is the one that was talked about in an earlier post. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2179924163&category=420







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   5 speed internal hub Sprites posted by: Larry "Boneman" Bone on 6/18/2003 at 12:22:28 AM
OK all you "search and destroy" Sprite Hunters out there.... GO FOR IT!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2179798723&category=420

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2179798702&category=420

Actually, I think these two are kinda nice....

later!

Boneman


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   5 speed internal hub Sprites posted by Chris on 6/18/2003 at 12:53:58 AM
Because these are 26 inch wheel and not 27 inch wheel bikes, because these are 5 speed hub versions and not the deraileur versions I keep these intact every time I find them. You don't see too many of these.
And I think that shade of Bronze Green is luscious. These would be overhauled and rusty parts replaced and it would be like a new bike and ridden and enjoyed and shown off.
No, it is the 27 inch deraileur bikes that I canibalize.

The 1970's 10 speeds in that icky white/ yellowish/ white
with the Alvit derailers Those are fair game for the parts on them.
Alvit derailers, Raleigh Chopper top nuts, cotter pins, R nuts, seatposts, pedals that the Raleigh Chopper people pay 10-00-80.00 for when they are crazy on e- bay.
Funny how some bikes are reveared and others "parts bikes"

And those always sell for less than these do.
I like the decal on this!

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   5 speed internal hub Sprites posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 6/19/2003 at 12:14:03 AM
heh heh. I did not think for one minute that these would be targets for dismemberment. I would love to have one of them myself but currently, I just can't do it. I hope these go to a good home.

Later!

Boneman






AGE / VALUE:   They are looking mighty fine now! posted by: Chris on 6/17/2003 at 8:10:48 PM
I've been going over and overhauling everything on these two Sports bikes.
Cotter pins going: POP! in the vise and they come out. I'm into the bottombrackets and finding pitting on the spindles. Yea!
Nice long seatposts in them and I raised them up. On another bike the other day I found the smallest little seatpost I ever saw. I decided to keep it. With the steel Raleigh brakes in hand, I pause and look up and around. Yup! I just decided that I don't like these brakes and that I prefer the Weinmann brakes and their matching levers.
What do you think I saved that Schwinn Racer for?
For the alloy Weinmann brakes! These Sports don't have the Pletcher racks on them. They do now! The bolts and nuts were removed and the bolt went thru the rack stand and then through the two rear fender braces and into the threaded hole on the rear dropout. Yes, you can put the nut back in but you can leave it off and into a jar they go. I put them back in. Removed plastic cable stop and installed a new one, a metal one that won't break off and cause a hassle.
Off go the steel brakes and on go the alloy brakes. Much better! Everything is good to go brakewise. I looked for a second at the trash can and then found my box labeled: Brakes! and in they went. Yes,those Raleigh self adjusting brakes. I hate them!
The plastic parts are worth money on e- bay.
perhaps the whole brakes.
Now on the back porch they sit.Side by side looking awesome because they are all cleaned and polished and the chrome literally glows. You take ahold of the handlebars and everything turns so sweetly and smooth. Wheels that roll and roll and the bike is a real joy to ride. These are the 20/30 Carbon steel framed bikes too! Reflectors! Now, they have them! Bells! Yes I put on bells but I'm all paranoid that they will get scratched up. Oh well, living dangerously!

Listen, What is up with those terrible, aftermarket, god-awful, steel, heavy, rusted in spots, miserable excuse for a kickstand that I see?
I chucked them into the trash! First thing I did!

Stays are not mashed but this is almost always the case.
Who made those? Wald! Oh yes.Wald.Now don't get too mad, because Wald made some nice things back in the day.
These kickstands were too long for our Raleigh Sports. Retrofitted the alloy Raleigh kickstand the later ones that are crudely made and they don't take a polish. The Sir Walter insignia became sloppy and was even copied by foreign makers who got ahold of the molds.
Back in the day, these alloy Raleigh kickstands were something to see. I have one on my 28 inch Raleigh Superbe rod brake machine.
Gumwall tires that mutate and stick to the rims. They are good and stuck!
Parted out the J.C. Higgans for the alloy brakes and other parts. I came up on it from behind and quickly put it out of it's misery. Saved that lettered crank.
I still think that the nicest color to have as far as the 1970's Raleigh Sports goes is the lemmon yellow one. Coffee and Bronze green are nice too.

parts I added were. bottombracket spindle, cables, housing, brake pads,bells, racks,(these were the racks I pulled from the clutches of the reclusive packrat and I nearly went nuts in getting them. They were 5.00 each) ball bearings, grease, chrome cleaner, hot water, rags, polish, chains, cogs, cones.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   They are looking mighty fine now! posted by Chris on 6/18/2003 at 7:40:16 PM
I have an idea forming in my head for a tool that should remove these cotterpins every time or nearly everytime without damage to the pin.
Even the 1970s era cotter pins.
Stay tuned






MISC:   Dynamos and D.B.U.'s posted by: Ian on 6/17/2003 at 9:10:06 AM
Hi, can anybody tell me if S.A.Dry Battery Units were ever used with conventional bottle shape dynamo's? I just pulled out a box of bits that I got some time ago from an original owner of the bike they were taken off and he assured me that they all came off the same bike but there is a side mount dynamo, a large headlight with a switch on the top that says Batt one way and Dyno the other way, and a Dry Battery Unit. Were these ever a set? If not does anybody know if they would work together, always presuming I could get batteries to fit. I have already tried the light and dynamo and they work fine, the light is like a searchlight compared with the usual ones. It also has a small bulb above the main one which I presume is for battery use when stopped at intersections etc. Any clues? Thanks, Ian.


   RE:MISC:   Dynamos and D.B.U.'s posted by Stacey on 6/17/2003 at 10:14:13 AM
While I've never seen them in combination Ian... but theres's a lot I've never seen, so. I don't see why a bottle gen. wouldn't work as long as it's delivering DC or rectified AC to juice up the batteries. Though I can't understand why anyone would want to run one, except maybe because of the cost issue involved with a DH... Could be it's he poor mans torch, maybe something to keep around.

BTW ' If you or anyone has a rubber cap for a DBU, I'd sure like to discuss a change of ownership :-))))

   RE:MISC:   Dynamos and D.B.U.'s posted by David on 6/17/2003 at 3:00:48 PM
The DBU does not include any sort of rectifier or charging device, does it? I thought it was merely what the Germans call a "stand-light" I.e. it provides power when the AC dynohub is not producing any, so you can have lights when you're stopped.

   RE:RE:MISC: Dynamos and D.B.U.'s posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/17/2003 at 5:02:29 PM
Correct. But Sturmey-Archer briefly sold a "car type battery" unit c. 1946-48 which could be recharged by the dynohub when underway. The maintenance of this unit was daunting enough (including refilling with distilled water once a week, cleaning contacts etc) that it didn't last long. I've never seen one and suspect they were limited to the British market.

Me, I still think lighting and lamp sets are the sexiest of all British bike accessories and components. I just have to get a period GH6 and silver painted flat glass headlamp for my '49 Clubman especially as the headlamp goes on the front fork. Now that is VERY "Clubby" looking indeed!

By the way, Club bikes were never sold or shown with DBUs; it just wasn't "done" and besides these machines were never designed to be ridden in city traffic. And they never stop for anything except level crossings and Foden steam waggons.

P.C. Kohler

   RE:RE:RE:MISC: Dynamos and D.B.U.'s posted by Stacey on 6/17/2003 at 6:45:13 PM
The Dyno Hub provides DC, it's a generator, it needs no rectification (filtering of the AC wave form as to allow current flow in one direction). Not an alternator wich would need ti be filtered through a diode trio, rectified in order to keep the batteries charged

   RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC: Dynamos and D.B.U.'s posted by Edward in Vancouver on 6/18/2003 at 1:08:01 AM
According to the "Sturmey Archer Story", Raleigh stopped making bottle generators long before WW2, and all catalouges and pictures I've ever seen relating to Raleigh showed either a dyno-hub or nothing.
However, to confuse matters, my '54 Superbe has a very distinct "bump" on the inside of the right fork. Wrong side for and English Dynohub? Perhaps for a speedometer?

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC: Dynamos and D.B.U.'s posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/18/2003 at 1:27:34 AM
No, actually this is correct "side" for riding on the "proper" side of the road, i.e. the English side, and is used for the classic fork mounted Heron's Crest lamp bracket.

A reminder of the days when the "Sports" was considered just that, a sports machine rather than a workaday roadster. The Sports in its formative years was a steel framed club bike. A rare type is the no. 28 Super Sports, c. 1948, in orange (!) with celluloid mudguards and three-pin detachable racing chainwheel.

I've not seen a Superbe equipped machine with the fork pip so a nice touch. Now you have to find the lamp bracket....

P.C. Kohler

   RE:MISC:   Dynamos and D.B.U.'s posted by David on 6/18/2003 at 4:53:46 PM
I've seen lamp bracket mounts on the OUTSIDE of the right fork leg, but not on the left. Both huh? (And Stacey, get out your DVM and play with your Dynohub. Or just consider its design. You'll see that it's AC.)

   RE:RE:MISC:   Dynamos and D.B.U.'s posted by David on 6/18/2003 at 8:18:16 PM
Not "left," but inside right fork leg... (Sounds like measuring someone on "Are You Being Served?" doesn't it?)

   RE:RE:MISC:   Dynamos and D.B.U.'s posted by Stacey on 6/18/2003 at 10:21:49 PM
David I respectfully submit to you to explain how an alleged device that produces AC can charge a DC storage device without rectification. I'm no electricial engineer, just a shade tree mechanic who's been around the block more than a couple of times and I've yet to see ANY AC source charge a DC storage device without rectification... Or did S/A hide a sub-mini diode trio on a IC in that hub?

   RE:RE:RE:MISC: Dynamos and D.B.U.'s posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/19/2003 at 1:26:19 AM
Get thee to Nottingham, England, fount of all knowledge and quoteth from the sribes of Raleigh, 1948 A.D.:

THE DYNO-LUXE ACCUMULATOR UNIT

This new device gives car-type lighting on a bicycle. It takes the form of a cylindrical case attached to the seat tube, containing a rectifier and three special dry accumulators. The rectifier converts the A.C. current from the Dynohub to D.C. suitable for charging the accumulators and at the same time obviates the need for a complicated "cut-out" mechanisem. The light is brilliant and steady when at a standstill or whilst riding at any speed.

The three accumulators are of a special "dry" form and have no free acid which can spill, even if the bicycle be upside down.

and then there are five essential maintenance tips....

Note bene: these were ACCUMULATORS not dry cell batteries. This was the ONLY Dynohub unit (AG and FG rear hubs) that recharged anything. What we all have (and if anyone on this list has the Accumulator units... how much do you want for same?!!!) is a tube with D cell batteries that power the lamps on when your machine drops to below 3 mph. They are not recharged by the dynohub. Ever.

There endeth the lesson.

P.C. Kohler

   RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC: Dynamos and D.B.U.'s posted by Stacey on 6/19/2003 at 10:05:29 AM
I humbly stand corrected and I appologize for my adamntacy. Thanks be to P.C. for he is kind!






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Need Info on Schwinn Breeze posted by: Bob on 6/17/2003 at 1:13:44 AM
I just "pulled up" a woman's Schwinn Breeze, SA dated 1974. It is a three-speed, (AW hub), caliper front and rear brakes and 26" x 1-3/8" tires. I searched here and Sheldon's cite, but no info. Are there millions of them, or do I have the only one? You guys have been great in helping me out in the past; I hope you can do it again.

In return for your help, here's a tip on cleaning chrome. From the Restoration cite I read all about using aluminum on chrome, and as you know, it works great. I've been using aluminum scrappers cut from old aluminum mini-blinds, and when I run out of them I plan to start cutting up old beer cans, of which I will never run out.
Bob


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Need Info on Schwinn Breeze posted by Ken on 6/17/2003 at 2:12:11 PM
The Breeze is by no means a rare model in the women's frame. Did they make men's? I've never seen one. As with other Schwinns, it was available with options- you could get it as a single-speed coaster as well as with the AW. It was the city bike for Chicago, well-built but not what you'd call light, with the Ashtabula crankset and all. My big objection is the use of a 597 rim (9 mm bigger than the standard) that renders all my extra 26 x 1 3/8 tires extra. I glanced at Sheldon Brown's tire sizing chart to make sure I had the numbers right, and noticed that he uses quotation marks around the word "lightweight" in this context.
It rides like a Cadillac, though.






AGE / VALUE:   Ack, it's all icky! ugh! posted by: Chris on 6/16/2003 at 8:27:42 PM
In removed the wheels off of this one sports I took a look at then. A lot of gunked up dirt and oil on the rear hub. I took a look at the galvanized grey spokes.
Ugh! It's not a thing I haven't seen before, but still.
The spokes have a coating of oil on them and thus they have fine little hairs sticking out off of the spokes. I decided to re- use these spokes and got all dirty handling them.
A dip in solvent and a wipe down and they are fine. Still the sight of these creapy lookin wheels is still in my mind. Shudder!
Perhaps this is at least 50% of the reason why I went to Stainless Steel spokes. That icky- furry look and also that the stainless steel is shinier and makes for an overall more attractive bike. Many people like the look of the galvanized spokes and they do not stress crack like the stainless steel ones do.
The old original galvanized spokes were all the way up thru the spoke nipple and the tops of the spoke nipples were ground off so the spoke does not puncture the tube. This is how it should be done. Order up new spokes like D.T. and leave it with a wheel builder and they may not be ground like that and no guarentee either that the spoke will go up that far to the top of the nipple and so watch out for spoke nipple failure and a weak wheel.
This has been my problem lately.
This is why I am re- using these spokes.This is a 1970's bike, so the Raleigh Pattern (or Westrick) rims are not not as strong as the older ones are and there are two dents in the rim so the rim is headed for the trash.

Tires. Tires on the bike are the right size, 26 X 1 3/8 however, they are thin and are not really right for the wide Raleigh pattern, (Westrick) rim. So with a bit of searching and if you bring in the rim(wheel)m or mention this when buying tires you should find a brand of 26 X 1 3/8 tire that will fit like a glove and a tire that is balloonish enough is out there. So don't let anybody tell you that you can't find tires for these.
I took these off and saved them for the plain 26 X 1 3/8 common rim steel or alloy, these fit on those fine. These are Specialized brand tires and have a great tread and they go to 80 P.S.I. so these are thinner and will ride a bit more harsh. There is a bit of varying here but still we can find tires. Whitewalls are another matter, but they are out there too.
I miss all red cycle tires!
I have a set of Veith tires and these are cool!
Veith. You never see these or hear of that brand. What's the story with that name?







AGE / VALUE:   Wanted: Rudge bicycle posted by: Bob on 6/15/2003 at 6:41:57 AM
Wanted: Rudge classic 3-speed sports-type bicycle in excellent condition, circa 50s, 60s or 70s. Prefer maroon color if possible as I understand it was Rudge's trademark color.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Wanted: Rudge bicycle posted by mike d. on 6/17/2003 at 1:44:53 PM
I have two raleigh sports for sale a mens 26 inch maroon and a womans 26 inch kelly green. I bought them new in 1976. I'm in the process of cleaning them up as they haven't been used in years. However they are in near new condition.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Wanted: Rudge bicycle posted by jorge on 6/21/2003 at 4:03:10 AM
hi do you still have the raleigh biks if you do please send to me your information and wher you living.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   EBAY AT THE MOON posted by: Mike Patterson on 6/14/2003 at 9:00:48 PM
Item 2178914255.
No connection to seller or eventual buyer.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   EBAY AT THE MOON posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 6/15/2003 at 12:23:11 PM
Nice find. I'm wondering if the fenders are original. Can't really tell if they are chrome or white, though the abscence of any rust spots would indicate chrome. Or possibly aluminium?

I would presume that the bike should have a chainguard as well though unsure if it would be a full chaincase or not.

Either way, NICE bike!

Later

Boneman






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   What should i do ??? posted by: Ian Gannon on 6/14/2003 at 6:07:41 PM
Hiya i hope somone can help, i just bought an old raleigh all steel bike from my place of work, not sure why but i when i saw it i had to have it so i gave my boss £30.00 and now it is mine but my question is this, it has a sturmey archer 4 speed dyno hub dated 1956 and bears a very close resemblance to a picture of a 1958 raleigh roadster, i bought the bike to ride as u would any normal bike but it does need some restoration, should i do this and if so should it be done proffessionally and also any ideas where i can find literature on this bike as i would like to know how to perform general upkeep tasks and not do somthing that might damage it. many thanks and i hope somone can help.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   What should i do ??? posted by S/A Recall Enforcement Officer on 6/14/2003 at 8:08:54 PM
You must immediately grab a pair of cutters and cut that hub out of the rear wheel and send it back. That hub has been recalled due to numerous safety issues. A replacement hub will be shipped to you at no cost

Sturmey - Archrer Recall Division
PO Box 13
Milford Square, PA
18935-0013
USA


Only kidding, just thought it would be a cheap way to get a Dyno-Four! LOL I know, sick humor.

Seriously, plan to spend an hour or three reading through the posts here. There's got to be a thousand years of collective knowlege & insight in the postings. If you're not familiar with bicycle mechanics, grab a beat up bike out of the tips and have a go at it. You don't want to use your 56 for a "learner" bike.

Stacey

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   What should i do ??? posted by Ian gannon on 6/14/2003 at 8:35:50 PM
LOL, many thanks, will spend an afternoon on the board, as for bicycle mechanics i am familiar with modern bikes but this is a whole other thing, think i will do some research before i get my spanners out lol. again many thanks

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   What should i do ??? posted by Chris on 6/14/2003 at 8:56:08 PM
I own two pair of Var cutters and a old, heavy duty ELDI spoke cutting tool that is one of my favorite of all bike tools.
I love the wound flat sprngs that fit in little pegs between the tool so the tool is sprung.






AGE / VALUE:   cheap&lucky posted by: sam on 6/13/2003 at 11:15:32 PM
Don't we all like to use those words in the same sentence.Made a lucky find and paid a cheap price for an N.O.S. raleigh all steel bicycle enclosed chainguard today.It was compleat--paid $2!!!!---sam


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   cheap&lucky posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 6/14/2003 at 1:05:07 AM
WOW. I do hope that you recall the precise location of whatever it was that you stepped in. That's awesome man! Good on ya!

Later

Boneman






AGE / VALUE:   Plastic Dynoe rear light age posted by: Warren on 6/13/2003 at 10:36:46 PM
The age of the gray plastic rear lights has been discussed lately. Go to...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2178525542&category=420

The plastic rear housing appears to date to the mid 70's, as seen here. Anyone who has found the plastic model on older bikes is likely dealing with replacements. The old ones are chrome...the really old ones are black, I think.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Plastic Dynoe rear light age posted by JohnM on 6/13/2003 at 11:55:18 PM
Warren, I have to disagree. The SA setup on my '55 Sports appears to be authentic, complete, and original, and it has the grey plastic. The history of this bike, as best I can piece it together, is that it spent about 40 years in a garage after having the left side crank bent in an accident. No reason to add lights in the 1970's, as no one was riding it. I have the original pedals, and the original Dunlop tires, both with minimal road wear. B66 was dried out and stiff, but barely broken in.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Plastic Dynoe rear light age posted by Warren on 6/14/2003 at 2:42:27 AM
Well that's fair enough...it's a data point anyway. So they made gray plastic in the 50's and the 70's with faux chrome right in the middle.

But are you sure the severe impact that bent that left crank didn't take out the rear tailight with it?

Kidding!!! Nothing really surprises me anymore. Getting old.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:I love vintage cycle tail lights posted by humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 6/16/2003 at 8:25:46 PM
The plastic tail light's plastic threading become funky with age and are hard to unscrew when one wishes to replace the bulb. Lots of folks removed the plastic- chrome ring and used the tail light that way. The metal housing of the old tail lights rusted sometimes.
while researching tail lights I found that a lot of them were made in various styles. I have a whole collection of tail lights alone.

I pulled open drawers full of parts and another vulture was already there but they missed things and there they were! I gasped and could not believe it! These are hard to find these days!
Replacement Sturmey- Archer tail light lenses! and whole tail lights. Old ones! I snapped up every one with the shop owner shaking his head at me and saying something like I was eccentric but we're still cool and that day I left out of there with a very happy grin. Out in the summer evening at night with the lights alit and there are few things as magical as a bicycle tail light at night.
Grey wiring, brass hooks those brass couplings, I love this stuff. I have a wooden cabinet with small compartments filled with these parts. There is just something neat about generating your own light as you ride.
The old Swiss made Lucifer lights. The old British Everready lights are way cool.






MISC:   Brooks Saddles posted by: Bryan Masone on 6/13/2003 at 9:01:55 PM
Ladies and Gentlemen, I have an open question. Do you do anything to preserve or protect the leather on your Brooks Saddles? I think they are the most comfortable saddles I've ever ridden, but I've had a few fall apart with age. I always cover the saddle with a plastic grocery bag while its parked outside, but I wonder if there's any more I can do?


   RE:MISC:   Brooks Saddles posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 6/14/2003 at 1:08:16 AM
Well, I use Meguiar's One Step Leather Care. Cleans and re-conditions and is SOLVENT FREE.

Use it on Brooks saddles... as well as the Corbin leather seat on my motorcycle.

Later.

Boneman

   RE:MISC:   Brooks Saddles posted by Edward in Vancouver on 6/14/2003 at 5:07:09 AM
Any cycle shop that sells Brooks saddles will also sell Brooks "Proofhide". Brooks states quite simply to use this product only, sparingly. Although I know very little about leather, I have first hand experience (Army boots!) that products such as Neats foot oil do soften leather, resulting in leather that tears/bursts prematurely. Plastic bags are O.K. to protect the seat while it's parked outside, but let the seat dry slowly away from direct heat. I guess the trick to a Brooks longetivity is to keep it waterproof, apply Proofhide sparingly on dry leather just as waterfowl would preen and oil their feathers...






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   roadster posted by: ron on 6/13/2003 at 11:20:30 AM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3612559876&category=7298

this is what I call a roadster.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   roadster posted by ron on 6/13/2003 at 11:27:13 AM
"Wait a minute, the tires look as if they are 28 inch, is that the case guys"????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? I f so I take back my comment.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   roadster posted by Warren on 6/13/2003 at 12:49:27 PM
Looks like 26" wheels to me...either way, it still qualifies as a roadster in my books.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Phillips 28 with rod brakes posted by: Larry "Boneman" Bone on 6/13/2003 at 1:47:10 AM
NMA. Neat bike!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2178608461&category=420