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Archived: English Roadsters







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Summer Jubilation! posted by: Bryan Masone on 6/25/2003 at 8:52:34 PM
I just got home from my daily 40 mile commute. This week I am riding the 1970 Hercules that I got at the dump a few weeks ago. Imagine being that bike; one minute you are actually being unloaded at the dump into the recycling heap, the next week its my regular transportation. Life can be o so good sometimes.







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Shipping a bike from England posted by: Bryan Masone on 6/25/2003 at 8:39:58 PM
I'm hoping one of the wise members of this forum might have some experience with shipping bicycles from England to the USA. I am currently working with an English gentleman here in the US who told me that his neighbor, a retired postman, gave him two English mail bicycles that have sat in his garage ever since. He has offered to give the bikes to me if I want to pay for shipping them to the US. I imagine it will be costly, but does anyone have any idea of whats involved? Can I simply send it UPS, or must I use a special freight company? Will I have to do anything to clear customs etc? I appreciate any advice anyone can offer as I contemplate the next step. Thanks!


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Shipping a bike from England posted by Peter on 6/26/2003 at 10:29:40 AM
Bryan - I recently had experience of shipping a bike from UK to Japan. I found the cheapest method was International Parcelforce, a service of the UK Post Office. They have two services suitable for shipping bikes, one by sea with no insurance, one by air with 250 pounds insurance built in. From memory the sea freight cost to Japan was about 80 pounds,30 days air freight 105 pounds, 7 days. There are size limitations on the shipping box, length plus girth must not exceed 3 metres. I begged a bike box from a bike shop, packed it myself, wheels off, bars of etc. In fact the box was a little over size but luckily the guy measured it wrongly. There was a customs declaration I had to sign. It went air freight, arrived in Japan on time and without damage.
Hope this helps, Pete.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Robin Hood posted by: Glenn on 6/25/2003 at 12:00:49 PM
Well I found another Robin Hood in near mint condition. I think it was Chris who gave me the list of colors before I bought the last one, which by the way, I still ver much enjoy riding. He said they are almost always found in black. I have my eye on one that is sort of a gold color. Maybe it was that carmine. On my hunt to the barn of bikes and I do mean alot of them, I found a Pugeot( I quess thats right). Kind of different though it says little miss and is a childs bike, pink and white in color and made in France. I thought it might be worth something so I bought it. I have a Grandaughter who I can give it and it would still be worth the $2.50 I paid for it. Sometimes I think to myself it may have been better if I hadn't found this site with so many nice folks. How many bikes can one person want?


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Robin Hood posted by humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 6/25/2003 at 4:16:53 PM
The Robin Hood bike was originally the Raleigh made Gazelle brand bicycle with the gazelle on the metal headbadge. Then the bike was getting confused with the Dutch company Gazelle so Raleigh changed the Gazelle brand name to Robin Hood.
Colors were a rare lilac/blue. A candy apple or Flamenco red or Carmine red. Black, and perhaps some other colors also that I have not seen or heard of yet. There was a yellowish /gold that was a beautiful color. Raleigh sprayed the Raleigh made Triumph bikes in this gold color and I think it found it's way onto Robin Hoods.

The early ones with the good chrome on the wheel rims and the oil fittings on the top side of the bottombracket. Front hubs with oil fittings and rear hubs with an alloy hub shell. Raleigh brand alloy kickstands, The Sturmey- Archer dynohub set with the lights, a bell, a rear rack, a leather seat, a leather bag with tools. The early ones or bikes with these parts are the better bikes to get ahold of.

I cannot recommend P.C. Kohler's Roll Britannia group strongly enough as he is trailblazing these and all the other vintage English bikes. New material is being added. Pictures! and intelligent discussions.
See Sheldon Brown's site too.

All Robin Hood parts are Raleigh made, common Raleigh parts that can be found on doner bikes or on e- bay and in the parts for sale sections on this site and in other sites and businesses and individual owners/ coollectors and best of all, in the old shops.

Some information is from: Story of the Raleigh Cycle by Gregory Houston Bowden 1975

This book also appears on e- bay and I would get a copy if you are into these bikes. It tells the story.
Do be careful what you pay for these Robin Hoods. Try to offer no more than $50.00
Check e- bay to see what these sell for and use that as a guide.

Later on, Raleigh bought up the Dutch company Gazelle and the stuff that came out of Gazelle in later years was awesome. All white/ cream tires marvelous machines built with pride. Recently after Raleigh (Derby) went thru changes (Derby or Raleigh) they recently sold Gazelle and who owns Gazelle now, I do not know.
Visit the Gazelle web site.
Robin Hood bikes are cool because of the badge and the lettering and the fact that it is an English made bike with that name. They always were (technically) a B- grade bike the best being
Robin Hoods with enclosed chainguards? Never seen these BUT...... They do have the raised point that is carrying the threaded center hole for fitment of an enclosed chaincase. You see, it was a basic frame that they applied a specific decal set to and a badge and a Voilla! A Raleigh made bike.

The heirchy was: Raleigh,
then Humber and Rudge.

Like that. Then a long list of secondary brands quailty was almost the same but with small changes.
A long list of other B-grade brands intended to sell in other areas and shops and for specific sales territories and importers and local shops.
Raleigh bought up other companies and created a few names of their own and they merged with the British Cycle Corporation and this was Tube investments or T.I. ( B.S.A. Phillips, Hercules) and it all got mixed together and then downsized.
Companies that came under the Raleigh umbrella were:
Hercules,Phillips,Sunbeam,Triumph, Norman, Dunelt, B.S.A. and a long, long list of others.
See Sheldonbrown.com as he's already covered this.
Keep an eye out and let us know what you find so we can advise/help you.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Robin Hood posted by Bryan Masone on 6/25/2003 at 8:27:27 PM
Christopher, I always thought that the Humber was equivalent in quality to the Raleigh branded bicycles (in terms of the Raleigh A line, B line system). Am I mistaken?

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Robin Hood posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/26/2003 at 12:48:33 AM
Now Christopher how can I respectfully disagree with you after all those nice things you said about "Roll Britannia"?!

But...

I don't think there was ever any "ranking" between Raleigh, Rudge and Humber by Raleigh Industries. Certainly in specs and finish, these were frankly identical machines. The reason for having three "top end" marques was just clever marketing: corner the dealer set-up that existed then when each cycle shop was an appointed "agent" for a cycle company. So if Sidmouth, Devon, say, had three independently owned bike shops that were agents respectfully for Raleigh, Rudge and Humber, the good folks in Nottingham were content: they effectively cornered the market in this lovely Devon seaside town. Likewise, the need to supply a RI made "popular priced" marque like Robin Hood to go around the problem of bike shops trying to undercut the "Big Three" with cheap foreign bikes.

Frankly, the 1949 era Robin Hoods were lovely jobs and had, on the upper end machines, little that was inferior to anything. Gearcases, dynolux lighting etc. The main difference always seemed to be the thinner cut cranks. Later Robin Hoods were available only in basic models and then the difference between them and a Raleigh or Rudge was more pronounced. No Brooks leather saddles, saddle bags, pump pegs, wire mudguard fitments instead of brazed stays, no lamp bracket etc.

Robin Hood, Dunelts, New Hudson, Comrade, Sun etc. were all fine machines regardless of their "status" vs. the top end marques. "Made in England" is enough for me!

P.C. Kohler

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Robin Hood posted by Chris on 6/26/2003 at 4:25:57 PM
P.C. Kohler is right.
It would be more accurate to say that Raleigh, Humber and Rudge were the same in quality and equipment. Still, Each had paint unique to that brand name. Each offered a locking fork and the Humber set up was unique to that brand.
Humber came in that lovely shade of blue that was not offered on the Raleigh's so some favor a Humber in blue over a Raleigh in another color. I do myself. Those forks, that color. Yes I love a Humber over a Raleigh.
"They went Ga- Ga over that fork"

Those three were grouped together and they were nice. What about the club bikes? Was the Raleigh's any better than the Humber clipper or Rudge models? Not in the early days no, I don't think so. Interesting about the thinner cranks.
Raleigh made a thin special crank for the early Record Ace and they sometimes broke.

What about the later model Robin Hoods? P.C. is right on about that also. I have seen these later model bikes with that point for an enclosed chaincase but there is no threading cut in the hole and also times I have seen a raised spot there but no hole at all drilled.
I am splitting hairs and they are all way cool.
Mr. Kohler, keep leading the way!






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   NOS Raleigh Tourist posted by: Tom on 6/25/2003 at 3:40:34 AM
Nice Raleigh Tourist on ebay in NOS condition. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3614523912&category=7298&rd=1







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   One Cool Raleigh posted by: Tom on 6/25/2003 at 3:34:26 AM
I cam across this on Ebay and had to post this. Have a look at all the pictures and the details that went into this. Look at the size of it. Wires, generator, seat springs, tire tread, rod brakes, etc. The fork looks like Raleigh. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2540860619&category=20083&rd=1


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   One Cool Raleigh posted by Edward in Vancouver on 6/25/2003 at 5:43:10 AM
Yep, just the thing for my 5 yr old son to yell "let me seen it too!" and then, "I DIDN'T DO IT!"...

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   One Cool Raleigh posted by David on 6/25/2003 at 10:31:01 AM
Oy vey. This is what we kill elephants for?

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   One Cool Raleigh posted by Chris on 6/25/2003 at 5:47:06 PM
I saw this piece on T.V. where the African rider flys around a bend and runs smack into the elephant and he gets up and runs and the camera catches the elephant destroying the bike and ripping the parts off of it and stomping on the bike. The rider was watching the elephant and making comments and they probably were not good ones. An elephant can kill you and they probably don't like being killed so folks can make attractive trinkets out of their tusks.
I love elephants and wouldn't buy something like this.
There are rules concerning Ivory carvings and all that, isn't there?






AGE / VALUE:   Nice club bike. posted by: Lary "Boneman" Bone on 6/25/2003 at 2:08:21 AM
NMA.

Thought y'all might wanna have a looksee.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2180878816&category=420

Later!

Boneman







AGE / VALUE:   Early demise posted by: Matthew on 6/24/2003 at 10:47:54 PM
Chris,
And fellow charioteers. The route to early demise requires a motor on your rod-braked roadster, inclement British weather (Manchester on most days of the year), and traffic. These coupled with steel tramlines (streetcar tracks) and greasy road surfaces are sufficient to give MTB riders the odd hairy moment, let alone Superbe riders. Yes Sturmey hub brakes would help but few bothered with the extra expense. One distant relative of mine died when riding in torrential rain with his cloth cap pulled down tight on his head. By the time he saw the stationary bus it was less than six feet away.
The Autocycle club cater for these wheeled wonders and yes they are ideal for grins beyond belief on sunny afternoons along quite lanes or cycle ways but not in traffic and not in town.
Matthew, urging caution not being a damp squb.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Early demise posted by Chris on 6/25/2003 at 4:35:50 PM
Thank You for your post that gives insight to the road conditions and weather.
A greasy road surface can be (is) deadly. I still shudder in reaction to crossing a section of shiny brick surface in a area town that has a interesction with brick surface.
Very sorry to hear that a family member was killed while awheel.
Yes. it is true that before the average family could afford a car that some did have motor/bike accidents. People were in transition from the bicycle to the early mopeds and all this mixed in with the affordability of small cars and then the changing road rules and regulations.
A thing to think about.






AGE / VALUE:   Let me try here posted by: Ray on 6/24/2003 at 3:23:40 PM
Last week I happened upon a find at a garage sale. I initially posted this question on the lightweight page and received some small responses. One person thought it to possibly be a Claude Butler. Tell me what you think, here is my original posting.
I have been asking around and now I am up to this site for help. I purchased this track bike from a garage sale this past weekend. Pretty light and had some crap components on it but I will take care of that. Ignore the seat, stem and pedals as they are current replacements. The handlebars, frame, headset, hubs and chainring and crank appear to be original. The hubs are BSA and obviously the chainring is also. Look at the head tube lugs and tell me what you think. I am thinking either a BSA or Pop Brennan track bike. Your thoughts are welcome.
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/wheelman_nj/lst?.dir=/BSA+Track&.view=t







MISC:   Bulbs for SA posted by: Mike in TX on 6/24/2003 at 12:27:02 PM
Waiting patiently for my 'new' 50's Superbe Sports Tourist from Harvey at COY. Since it has the AG/Dynoluxe, I just realized that I have no idea if spare head and taillamp bulbs are readily available. A lesson in Sturmey Archer lighting, with an emphasis on bulbs, would be greatly appreciated.


   RE:MISC:   Bulbs for SA posted by humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 6/24/2003 at 4:14:31 PM
Reflectalite Co. in U.K.
They have modern halogen bulbs for these Sturmey-Archer dynohubs.

Guys,could you please give him the whole scoop and the web address?
thanks!

   RE:MISC:   Bulbs for SA posted by Bryan Masone on 6/24/2003 at 9:11:59 PM
I might be a bit slow due to our recent heat, but please tell me who is Harry and what is Coy? He sells old Raleighs?

   RE:MISC:   Bulbs for SA posted by Bryan Masone on 6/24/2003 at 9:12:35 PM
I might be a bit slow due to our recent heat, but please tell me who is Harry and what is Coy? He sells old Raleighs?

   RE:RE:MISC:   Bulbs for SA posted by David Poston on 6/24/2003 at 9:23:46 PM
Mike,

Yes, I would suggest Reflectalite in the UK, or you can do a search on e-bay for "sturmey archer." CYORD, the e-bay seller with tons of NOS stuff, was selling a box of 10 NOS Sturmey Archer bulbs not too long ago. Of course, the NOS ones won't be as bright as the halogen ones from Reflectalite, but they are the period-authentic solution.

Good luck,

David.

PS--I still have your '52 Sports sitting in my garage and haven't yet figured out what to do with it. I'm not even sure it is good for parts. Maybe I'll have to donate to someone else :).

   RE:RE:MISC:   Bulbs for SA posted by Mike in TX on 6/24/2003 at 9:26:53 PM
Thanks for the help, Chris. Halogen bulbs, huh? Sounds great, has anybody used these? No molten taillight lenses?

COY is www.cyclesofyesteryear.com

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Bulbs for SA posted by Edward in Vancouver on 6/25/2003 at 5:38:09 AM
No, the Reflectalight bulbs are great, far better than the orginal ones, and they don't put out any heat. If you're going through the hassle to order stuff from overseas, might as well order several halogen bulbs and you can always order the regular ones for the tail lights as well. I think Reflectalights adress is on Sheldon's website.
Hey by the way, do you have a front or rear dynohub? According to S/A literature, the GH6, or front dyno put out slightly more power. Apparantly because there was less metal mass in the hub as compared to a 3 or 4 speed dyno.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Bulbs for SA posted by Mike in TX on 6/25/2003 at 12:27:28 PM
Thanks for all the advice. It's a rear AG 'Dynothree', but I don't know what the wattage ratings are. Is it the typical 2.4W head/.6W tail, or something else?

PS Hey David, good to hear from you, what's been going on? [subliminal on] sell mike the tourist sell mike the tourist... [subliminal off]

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Bulbs for SA posted by Edward in Vancouver on 6/25/2003 at 11:50:31 PM
Nah, the magnets and armatures are all the same. But they're definately neat, dynohubs. I've put a hollow axle and Q/R skewers on one, couldn't find replacement cones for a friend's GH6, and he didn't want to spend $ for n.o.s cones, so I stuck in an AW axle and AW cones for him. I've even converted an FG- 4spd dyno to a 8 speed with drum brake because the magnet was dead. Why leave well enough alone?....






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   B.S.A. Paratrooper posted by: Ian on 6/24/2003 at 8:15:39 AM
There was a posting a day or two ago about a bike on eBay that looked like the folding parachute bike except that it did not fold and I ventured the opinion that some features looked later than wartime models however I have just been sent some photocopies of excerpts from a 1924 B.S.A. catalogue which shows that lovely round top bar shifter and an alternative handlebar shifter that appears to slip over the bar ahead of the grip and rotate around the bar with a cam action. There is also some info on the hub and on the frame fittings kit for that year. If anybody would like copies email me. Can anybody say what years B.S.A. did and did not sell complete bikes? My understanding is that for some time they built complete bikes, then stopped and only offered fittings kits to dealers, then started manufacturing complete bikes again until taken over. Is this correct and if so what years did it all occur? Thanks, Ian.







AGE / VALUE:   Behr delight! ( Major degumping of everything is all done) posted by: Chris on 6/23/2003 at 11:47:17 PM
It's for cleaning oil off of concrete. It really works for that unlike everything else.
But....

Man does this stuff work awesome in cleaning gunked- up, dried, grease, oil covered parts! No kidding!
The second surprise was the chainwheel cranks, all the non- chromed grooves.
Dazzling, really!
Cranks are set in this stuff and then removed after a few minutes and rinsed and I have never seen a crank set shine so wonderfully way better than the day they left Nottingham.

Everything is cleaned and re- assembled and 9 unfinished projects are now done with wheels back on and all those chains are good as new. These were the dried, frozen, icky chains. Now shiny blue with the Perry word all readable. The old stuff when they still made bushing type chains.
Best degreaser/ cleaner ever.
Package says it is solvent free and safe and all that.
over 10.00 a jug. I got it with a bunch of other things that I gave 5.00 for everything at a sale.
Behr brand concrete degreaser

Spokes! You fellows (and gals) would not believe it!
I have now been converted to the original zinc spokes.
They look different(CLEAN!) along with the hub innards that are now grey and not brown!
Caged bearings! everything!
Unbelievable!

No more worrying about the pain of degumping. It makes me want to go about degumping and overhaul everything! That's what I have been doing!
I hear they make awesome paint too.
Behr!

I have not sprayed it but let things soak for a little while.
The spokes blew my mind the way they turned out.
Ever try to clean hardened grease and oil out from around the chainwheel's teeth? now it's just a light polish with the steel wool and dish soap.







AGE / VALUE:    Scooter axles smack of Sturmey- Archer posted by: Chris on 6/23/2003 at 11:39:37 PM
While dissembling a scooter wheel to overhaul the bearings I noticed the solid axles in both wheels are almost exact copies of the fine threaded, Sturmey- Archer 3 speed hub type axle. I have not tried to see if a S/A axle nut will fit on the threads or not but man, is it exact to the eye.

Did Sturmey- Archer let the scooter folks use their patternd or molds or tooling or whatever?
This is a new department store scooter with the 12 inch white little wheels and the rotor type brake attachement that takes a special cable that I don't have.
Bearings were dry and overtightened and the wheels would barely turn before I fixed it.
Plastic mag type wheels. skateboard type part that you stand on.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:    Scooter axles smack of Sturmey- Archer posted by Chris on 6/23/2003 at 11:47:08 PM
The axles is flat on both sides and with that fine thread.
Little clips that are for safety. I believe they are called Lawyer's lips.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:    Scooter axles smack of Sturmey- Archer posted by jeff on 6/27/2003 at 8:48:35 AM
I believe these are standard 3/8" 26 TPI BMX axles.






MISC:   useless but decorative posted by: Ken on 6/23/2003 at 5:32:13 PM
OK, we did hub shiners, and how! but what I remember, and haven't seen for 30+ years is helical plastic coilies, in whatever color matched your bike, that you would wrap around your brake and shifter cables. The same hardware store where I bought my red Armstrong (in '62 I think) must have sold a million of 'em. Chris? Got some stashed?


   RE:MISC:   useless but decorative posted by humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 6/23/2003 at 11:17:36 PM
In all my whirlwind type bike shop jaunts, I rarely saw these either on the bikes or in the packages new.
I hold none of these at all right now. My bikes never had these on them and at the time if I did see it, I probably incorectly thought these to be American and Schwinn-ish. I did see a package or two with another fellow's stash and I'll ask about them.
It goes over the brake cable and was made by the people who make the "gem tape" right? This is a cool period accessory and would sell.

I had plastic pieces of what resembled a drinking straw with a slit on the side and it was in a plastic bag with colors of red white and blue. Other colors would be great and today you could have neon colors. Anyways, this was snapped over spokes and I remember riding the bike in parades.
I'll ask about the cable coverings and see if I can pry it away from the fellow.
He let me buy a few items but after I spent enought to get him out of a jam, the box closed up again and nothing else was for sale. He had a Dunlop rubber saddle but grinned at me without a word when I asked about that.
1950's-1960's era, right?
Add this cable covering to the list of things to copy exactly and reproduce and sell here to English bicycle folks.
Useless but decorative does apply, but I would say that anything that is useless but decorative but still makes one happy and if it livens up the place I would say that it is not entirely useless.

   RE:RE:MISC:   useless but decorative posted by Chris on 6/23/2003 at 11:22:46 PM
These cable coverings along with all the rest of it is something that I find beautiful, wonderful, magical, gentle, wonderful and good
Something to preserve and save.
Today, this kind of a thing is missing and the world is a poorer, uglier place and with less charm.

"All things from childhood are still dear to me"
-Nikola Tesla.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   useless but decorative posted by Stacey on 6/23/2003 at 11:48:29 PM
I used them in black to cover the braided stainless steel brake lines on my Yamaha... the served a very definite purpose... to keep them from abrading the fiberglass bodywork.

Back to hub shiners... with or without reflectors? LOL

   RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:   useless but decorative posted by Chris on 6/24/2003 at 12:10:49 AM
Yes, to keep the thing from rubbing against or abraiding the bodywork!
Hadn't thought of that! Excellent point!

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:   useless but decorative posted by Ken on 6/24/2003 at 1:59:47 PM
Thanks for the Tesla. That about says it all for a collector.






WANTED:   Info on fitting a derailleur posted by: Ian on 6/23/2003 at 5:56:32 AM
Can anybody offer any advice on fitting a derailleur and five speed cluster into a roadster frame with horizontal rear dropouts (standard old roadster frame)? Having built up my traditional 3 speed S.A roadster with rod brakes and full chainguard etc I am now looking at building a hybrid for fun using one of the frames and various other bits I have lying about. I have two 3/32 five speed clusters, one Shimano and one Suntour, both with 14 to 28 teeth sprockets which I figure will give me a gear for every situation even if they are rather wide apart. Can I screw these on to a hub which was ment for a single speed freewheel (I think) which has only the one thread on it, no left hand thread for a lockring. Also I need to go find a derailleur which will work with these and wondered if there is one type that will attach to the frame better than the others? Any advise welcome, thanks, Ian.


   RE:RE:WANTED:   Info on fitting a derailleur posted by Stacey on 6/24/2003 at 12:05:38 AM
Ian, you won't need a full length cable housing... just take one of those cable casing stops(fulcrum clamp & sleeve) like they use on the chainstays for Shimano 3 speeds and put it on your chainstay, only orient it wit the large hole facing to the rear... fasten a cable guide to the underside of your bottom bracket, run the shifter cable from your D/T shifter, thru the BB cable guide into the little block on your chainstay and a short piece of casing from the little block to your rear derailer.

It's not all doom and gloom but a simple task. Just grab a wheel, slam it on, mount up a claw mount derailer... drill a small hole in the rear drop-out to insert the fixing bolt, cable it up, adjust the derailer, rechain it (you might want to think about using another chainring up front) and pedal away. It takes less time to do the job than it did for me to type this out... ok I type slow :-))))

   RE:RE:WANTED:   Info on fitting a derailleur posted by Ian on 6/24/2003 at 8:13:03 AM
Thanks to all those who posted and those who emailed with ideas. The consensus seems to be that it is possible and the amount of work depends on how well you want it done! I already have some of the necessary parts on hand so will start playing and see how far I can get without tearing out the little hair I have left or spending more than the bike is worth. Will post results one way or the other when it is done or abandoned. Thanks again, Ian.

   RE:WANTED:   Info on fitting a derailleur posted by Mark G on 6/23/2003 at 5:17:11 PM
Hi Ian,
you will have a few problems with your derailer. First up is you will have to braze on a hanger for your derailer.
Secondly you will have to have a wheel made up to accomodate a 5 speed cluster.
My advice would be to gethold of a shimano Nexus 7 speed internal hub. I recently installed this system into a late 60's humber 3 speed and its is great. you retain the vintage looks of an internal hub but gain the modern convinience of 7 gears

   RE:WANTED:   Info on fitting a derailleur posted by Ken on 6/23/2003 at 5:24:12 PM
You can do this, but it's not simple. Have you looked this stuff up on sheldonbrown.com? 1) the freewheel goes on easy. Getting it off again requires the correct tool. Two tools if you haven't removed the bmx freewheel yet. 2) you'll presumably need a longer axle and 2a) have to redish the wheel and 2b) maybe respace the frame. 3) As far as derailleurs go, you'll need one with a mounting claw since the frame won't have a hanger. Lots of us have shoeboxes full of these. Then, the frame won't have a cable stop either, so you'll need one that clamps on, or full housing from the shifter. 4) Last, but by no means least, you'll need 3/32" chain, so 4a) you'll need a different chainwheel, so 4b) might as well go to cotterless cranks, so 4c) you'll need a bottom bracket that fits. I'm sure there's more, but that's a start.

   RE:RE:RE:WANTED:   Info on fitting a derailleur posted by Ken on 6/24/2003 at 2:07:55 PM
Stacey's found the key- you could take a back wheel off a junk 26" 10-speed and pop it right in. At the other end of the spectrum, if you want to spend a couple weeks' pay, Rohloff makes a 14 speed internal...






AGE / VALUE:   Indian Scout on Ebay posted by: Larry "Boneman" Bone on 6/23/2003 at 12:11:54 AM
NMA and no association

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2180643878&category=420

Tough to figure the age on this one. Looking at the shifter, obviously, it's an older model... that and the lack of white panel is somewhat significant. Though, quite possibly it's been repainted.

Later.

Boneman


   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Indian Scout on Ebay posted by Jeff R on 6/24/2003 at 1:21:45 AM
They came with a hockey stick style chainguard. They also made a 26" ladies bike called a Princess and a 24" boys bike called a Brave. The Chief was a 28" bike. I have my Scout with a FW 4 speed that I got in 1952 and still ride it daily. They were made from the late 40's to about 1960 which is when Raleigh took over Phillips. Phillips was part of The Royal Enfield Motorcycle Company which took over Indian at the end of 1953 and marketed Royal Enfields with the Indian logo on them.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Indian Scout on Ebay posted by David on 6/24/2003 at 10:05:20 AM
Didn't Indian continue to make the big V-twins in Springfield right up to the end; even while they sold Royal Enfield motorcycles and (I now know) bicycles under the Indian brand?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Indian Scout on Ebay posted by Jeff R on 6/23/2003 at 11:25:55 AM
Its a 1951 Indian. Its also a 3 speed not a 4 speed. The Indian bicycles were made by Phillips for the Indian motorcycle company and did not have the white stripe on the