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Archived: English Roadsters







AGE / VALUE:   Robin Hood Sports (26 x 1 3/8). posted by: William Soon on 6/30/2003 at 12:58:08 PM
Hi guys,how're you all doing? Great,I hope!!!
Well,recently,I'm interested in acquiring a Robin Hood Men Sports from an acquaintance of mine.He bought it some time ago and seldom uses it.He's thinking of selling it off for about US$25-30.And I'm here pondering whether I should buy it or not.I mean,I can only use my Gazelle(later when it's out of the shop) for leisure rides(call me what you guys want but I'm not too anxious to pile up the miles on it!),so I think I could use a 'rougher' bike for errands,etc.

From the papers(sales document) that he got with the bike,it says '1953',but he has misplaced it now.It is in a rough shape: the paintwork has seen much better days but you could still make out the 'Robin Hood' transfers on the downtube,seat tube and also the fully-enclosed chaincase.
The headbadge is the aluminium alloy? type and all its paint has gone but the embossed 'Robin Hood' lettering on it is still very clear.Mudguards are rusted and dented,paintjob falling apart.But the frame is still very sturdy with no dents or bents. Yeah,I guess it's still using the original grey-bullet handles,which by now has worn very close to the grooves and hard as rock!

It has oiling holes on both hubs(rear is a single speed) and also at the bottom bracket with a tiny rubber cap/plug.But the funny thing is it doesn't have the pump pegs on the downtube.Nothing,not broken,no remaining stubs but just a smooth downtube. ??? Currently using NON-original rims,tyres and saddle.

So,a few questions for you enthusiasts....
1) Did they make Robin Hood Sports back in the early fifties?The serial number is '48067 GDN',if that helps.
2) Hmmm,the pump pegs...I thought all older bikes are fitted with them.
3) What is the chance of finding a replacement headbadge for it? Was there any made in copper like the Raleighs' or did they make them all in aluminium?

So,what do you guys think,huh? Thank you all for your comments.I really appreciate them.Thanks and happy riding.GOD BLESS!!! :D :D :D

Regards,
William Soon,Malaysia.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Robin Hood Sports (26 x 1 3/8). posted by Ken on 6/30/2003 at 10:11:34 PM
http://www.jimlangley.net/brake/europlatesdet18.html






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Bulbs for S-A Part 2 posted by: Mike in TX on 6/30/2003 at 4:21:01 AM
First off, thanks for all the help with my newbie question the other day. Now, out of curiosity, on looking up Reflectalite halogen bulbs, they recommend (for S-A dynohub systems) the following:

Headlamp bulb of 5 volt, 0.3 amp, 1.5 watt (halogen)
Taillamp bulb of 6 volt, 0.1 amp, 0.6 watt (standard incandescent)

Now, S-A literature for the AG and FG hubs calls for the following:

Headlamp bulb of 6 volt, 0.25 amp, (=1.5 watt)
Taillamp bulb of 6 volt, 0.04 amp, (=.24 watt)

I guess my question is...any electricians out there? What's with the ratings? A 5 volt lamp for the front? Is this merely a recalculation of the values to allow for the current draw/efficiency (higher?, lower?) of the halogen lamp? Are the differences even significant? Any danger of frying bulbs? I plan to contact them in the a.m. to check before I order the bulbs, but just thought I would run it by ya'll as well.
Thanks a lot.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Bulbs for S-A Part 2 posted by Ken on 6/30/2003 at 10:20:38 PM
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/commute/index.html

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Bulbs for S-A Part 2 posted by Mike in TX on 7/7/2003 at 5:57:22 PM
A-ha! Thanks for the link. Got it now, 2w at 6v, not the typical 3w.






AGE / VALUE: Looking up from lawn chairs, they wonder: Who has a bike for sale that we know? Hmm posted by: Chris on 6/29/2003 at 6:21:25 PM
At the garage sale there will be a few ladies sitting around with the head lady in charge. They're hanging out and keeping her company. Be sure to ask them all, not just the lady running the sale.
"Do you have any old bikes at home, do you know anybody who does?" Ask,make them think about it. Try to get them into your quest too, for you!
Give them your little card thing with your number.
Somebody has an old bike in the basement they want to get rid of!

This also works with men and tools and vintage cars and other things but I never hardly see the men. They are off elsewhere.Perhaps in the house watching a game or working on something. Sometimes you see a fellow sitting alongside his wife at a yard sale but usually they have a frown on their face and were wishing they were someplace else.
Get them talking about their buddies who may have an old bike.







AGE / VALUE:   Where's the grease? Midnight overhaul! posted by: Chris on 6/28/2003 at 7:21:42 PM
Hub bearings are so tight it barely moves. No grease at all. This is how a new hub is set up from the factory?
Took it apart, cleaned it out, greased liberally and set bearings. It turns so nicely now.
Four hours of assorted fooling with the bike, late into the night!
No hammering cotter pins after 11 p.m! Looking for a part and searching in this box and that box.
I'm going to use that awesome Simplex T bar top shifter with the Alvit when I find where it is!
Lady said The Schwinn was NOT for sale and I said "Just thought I would ask." I would not have wanted it at all if not for those delicious metal jockey wheels in the Sprint derailer. Turned off lights at 4 a.m. and went to bed. It is still not ready yet.
Thin 26 X 1 3/8 tires are still bugging me. Shop has found a source for 3 speed cable and as always,I bought every package they have in stock.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Where's the grease? Midnight overhaul! posted by Chris on 6/28/2003 at 7:36:33 PM
I am not finding anything these days and I'm all bummed out. With one exception of a 56 The Flying Scot track bike that made my heart skip about.
So please keep your stories coming and tell the tales of found bike adventures.
Pull out an old Rudge or Humber out of a skip for me, will ya fellas?

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Where's the grease? Midnight overhaul! posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 6/29/2003 at 4:40:54 AM
Chris... don't know if you're in propinquity with Hancock, NY... but just south of town on rt. 97 there's a fella havin' a yard sale... He's go what appears to be a 50's 60's vintage Ladies Sports... I could not date it as the hub is black with crud... I would have snagged it myself but there just was no room in the truck at that particular moment.

Hope the pickings improve forya.... Actually, with 18 consecutive CRAPPY weather weekends... the Yard Sale season is JUST getting underway in the northeast, so take comfort in that!

Later!

Boneman

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Where's the grease? Midnight overhaul! posted by Chris on 6/29/2003 at 6:14:41 PM
I am not seeing them anyplace, not even in the towns!
Make room in the truck.Keep room in the truck.Get a bigger truck and as you pull out and head off down the highway think of me all bummed and not finding anything and laugh!
Save em! Save em for me, for you, for the guys here and for future generations of people who will take as liking to these cool bikes!






AGE / VALUE:   A lesson learned: Don't leave it on the hood of the car posted by: David Poston on 6/28/2003 at 4:32:23 AM
A lesson learned:

I had pulled my fleet out of the garage to clean house and do a little touch-up work on my Rudge Sports...I set my headlamp on the hood of my wife's car (no worry about scratches)...Five minutes later, she took off for the grocery store...Two minutes later, she came back...Without the headlamp...She said she heard it crash...I jumped on my Rudge and took off down the street...I found its guts strewn across the road...I brought it back and gave it a proper burial...Managed to save the bulb and the reflector...Fortunately, I still have two or three more of these NOS headlamps stashed away somewhere thanks to my rampant e-baying...

THE END


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   A lesson learned: Don't leave it on the hood of the car posted by Brian on 6/28/2003 at 1:03:52 PM
David - If you can part with a nos (S-A) headlamp and/or taillight - I'm interested in buying!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   A lesson learned: Don't leave it on the hood of the car posted by Bryan Masone on 6/29/2003 at 12:32:59 AM
Oh David, I'm sorry to hear your story. I did the same thing with 2 fishing poles and a full tackle box once(my other hobby) when I was so upset after getting a rotten letter from the IRS. It shook me up so much that I drove all the way to my fishing spot before I realized. Someone even followed me for a while beeping their horn, but I was so worked up all I could think about was that damn letter. A bad day for sure.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   A lesson learned: Don't leave it on the hood of the car posted by Ward Davis on 6/29/2003 at 1:53:19 AM
Perfectly good cordless house phone,on top of the car(wife), crushed by another car,found by me on my bike when the wife was in a panic! Oh, well.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   A lesson learned: Don't leave it on the hood of the car posted by Edward in Vancouver on 6/30/2003 at 1:10:29 AM
Lets see, a Cat eye mity 2 left on the bumper of the car, and on another occasion my favorite Cannondale hex key set, and on one meomorable occasion, I left a 48 pack of size 5 disposable diapers on then roof when I was fishing for keys in my pocket and trying to get the kids in their seats, but that time I managed to rescue the diapers...

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   A lesson learned: Don't leave it on the hood of the car posted by Ralph on 6/30/2003 at 7:15:24 PM
I knew a guy who did that with an M-16 in the service. The Army has no real sense of humor about lost weapons in the field.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   A lesson learned: Don't leave it on the hood of the car posted by Ken on 6/30/2003 at 10:24:42 PM
As long as it wasn't the kids...
I've got all but one of a set of metric sockets that fell off a car going around our corner.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   A lesson learned: Don't leave it on the hood of the car posted by Chris on 7/1/2003 at 10:49:01 PM
As you are driving thru town, keep and eye out for an original Raleigh Chopper Cissy bar! It's still out there, someplace.

I can imaging the guy telling me: "They're used to you losing stuff, but not me!
Give me yours and we'll tell them that it was you who lost it!
"Aw, Come on, dude!" Then they all jump me and take mine!
Lose something? Stay away! You cannot have mine!






AGE / VALUE:    posted by: Mark R. on 6/27/2003 at 5:53:23 PM
Well, I just saw the damndest thing. Two guys out riding their classic Raleighs! One was a club racer, and a real beauty too! Raleigh green with white mudguards, and like new to boot! The other was a Raleigh "Sports". It is very unusal here in South Jersey to see people actually USING their Raleighs as riding bikes. I was very pleased:-)


   RE:AGE / VALUE: posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/27/2003 at 8:04:22 PM
That's great and you're right, doesn't happen often. For me, riding these splendid machines is what it's all about.

Today I took my '49 Clubman on a 40-mile run from Washington, DC to Herndon, VA on the WO&D trail, a former railway. To my amazement, I passed what looked to be a Rudge Pathfinder in the traditional Rudge maroon... lovely! But of course we clubmen are going way too fast to have time to oggle each other's machines....

P.C. Kohler

   RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by Ward Davis on 6/28/2003 at 1:21:56 AM
That was me and my pal riding down to Seaview Marriott to watch the ladies golf tournament. They are both my bikes. We rode from Medford to Absecon in about 4 easy hours (41 miles. I wished you would have stopped to say hello. If you ever want to ride, I would like to! SMALL WORLD!!!!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 6/28/2003 at 3:04:16 AM
No kidding! What on earth would I want with a bicycle besides to RIDE it. Kinda like motorcycles in a way. According to the AMA the average motorcycle in the U.S. gets ridden a PALTRY 2000 miles per year. I personally ride mine about 10K miles per annum. Kills the book value of the machine, but I'm not worried about that!

As far as the bicycles... well, I've cleaned up and sold three and have not had time to clean one up for myself yet, but I DO ride this rather LARGE framed 5-speed Sprite around the neighborhood every chance I get. It's really cool because you get the darndest looks from the neighborhood kids riding their fenderless torture-machine mountain bikes. Especially when you blow by them like they are standing still.

And some of the "older" folks such as myself get that starry eyed nostalgic look on their faces...

I could have sold it on the spot more than a few times... a lowly "Sprite" no less. Though this one is cool just because it's so stinking tall... too big for me actually, but I like the view from that altitude. ('_^)

Later!

Boneman




   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by Mark R. on 6/28/2003 at 10:51:48 AM
Hey! I wish I HAD stopped! I had to take my little one to the dentist and didn't have time:-( I really liked your club bike (at least from what I could see from the road), and I wish I had been able to chat a minute with you about it then :-( I would love to take a ride some time this summer. I almost never get to ride with someone who admires these machines. I hope to find a club bike like yours one day myself. I have several nice old Raleighs, and regularly ride a mid seventies Austro-Daimler roadracing machine. I guess you'd call me a "retro-groutch", but I think that people are missing something by not having ever riden these fine machines.
I'll keep your address on file, and get in touch soon.
Mark Riendeau






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Awesome Phillips on Ebay posted by: Larry "Boneman" Bone on 6/27/2003 at 1:56:15 AM
NMA

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2180879708&category=420


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Awesome Phillips on Ebay posted by David on 6/27/2003 at 8:30:04 PM
Isn't "Medical Max" one of your neighbors, P.C?

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Awesome Phillips on Ebay posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/28/2003 at 12:57:48 AM
Indeed he is David, right down the hall. I am beginning to worry, however, as he's selling off all of his classic English three-speeds except his 1954 Rudge Sports.

Don't worry I shall endeavour to take up the slack!

P.C. Kohler






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Rod brake bike posted by: Joe on 6/27/2003 at 1:12:04 AM
Hi.
I recently picked up a pair of older British bikes. One is a very old rod brake ladies bike and the other a 1966 Robin Hood (SA hub dated 5/66). I have a few questions on these, the Robin Hood is missing it's chainguard and has a bent left crank arm. The rod brake bike is rough but has no headbadge or decals surviving, it is also missing it's chainguard and rear fender. I don't have any pics yet, but I found one with a similar frame on eBay(http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2181039955&category=420)Mine has a flatter type of fender, a headlight bracket off of the headset, and no rear rack. It is a single speed with a freewheel, the rims look original, as does the rest of the bike, I have reason to beleive that it sat in the same place since before WWII.
My question here is how many other manufacturers made such a bike? I mainly want to identify this bike before doing anything to it in the line of a restoration. The headlamp bracket is not the heron logo type, it has 2 half moon cutouts in it instead. The Chainring is plain with no logo or designs, it doesn't look much different than the one on the Robin Hood. I really am not even sure at this point if it is even definitely made in England? Were there any other countries making a rod brake bike back then?
If anyone has any insight please feel free to email me.
My question on the Robin Hood is: Is a Raleigh chainguard the same? I have a few of these, I don't have another Robin Hood to compare to. (Did these all use a chainguard? I don't see any marks where one was mounted.)The Robin Hood is in pretty good condition otherwise, including paint, there is a decal that is peeling but it looks to have been someones initials added to the down tube. The tires are Dunlop and in like new condition, I don't think this was ridden much at all. The seat is vinyl and not a leather but it came with a good Brooks B72. I am not sure if the Brooks belongs here or not? It would be nice to see a picture of one to compare to but I haven't seen any yet online. As far as the bent crankarm, I could use a Raleigh set but they all have the Heron logo, and they look a little thicker, just one wouldn't match. I can probably staighten the old arm with good results. Again if anyone here has any info on these, any help would be most appreciated.
Thanks,
Joe


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Rod brake bike posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/27/2003 at 4:30:27 AM
To try and answer your Robin Hood queries:

1. Chainguard: yes had one and should be the same design as the Raleigh. Check eBay, these come up a lot, often NOS. Chainguards were always getting damaged so it was a major parts item. Local bike shops may still have stacks of the things.

2. Saddle: no Brooks B72 as stock sadly, should be a Brooks vinyl mattress saddle, maybe in red/white for that year.

3. Cranks: nope, you need the thinner pattern for Robin Hood. These should be common as they were the same fitted to all Nottingham made mid-range machines including the adopted TI brands like Phillips, Sunbeam etc. Local bike shops may still have some.

Remember, by 1966 Robin Hood was a "generic" mid-range English bike. This doesn't make it bad just makes it really easy for you to find spares and fittings. I wish my 1949 Clubman were as common and "generic"!! Does anyone out there have a spare pair of Britannialloy cream-coloured celluloid mudguards??? Or pump???

P.C. Kohler

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Rod brake bike posted by Joe on 6/28/2003 at 3:16:49 AM
Thanks, The saddle on it is in good shape, it's black and white but I see no name on it, I have another that says Wright's on the lip of the vinyl and it looks to be the same.
I have a few older British cranksets in the garage, including an early to mid 60's Philips that someone painted with house paint for parts if I get stuck for a crankset, (it's headtube and downtube are bent as well).
The bend in the right arm looks like it will straighten, its not twisted but curved inward, I have had luck straightening a few before. I wouldn't waist the time if the chrome wasn't so perfect on it.
On the chainguard, I notice on the Philips and the Raleighs they have a tab to bolt the guard to, the Robin Hood has no tab? I don't see any sign of it having been there and broken off, did the Robin Hood use a clamp on style guard? (The Raleigh i looked at was a little newer though). The guard itself is the same shape. Were there decals on the chainguard?
Thanks,
Joe

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Rod brake bike posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/28/2003 at 3:38:19 AM
The saddle is the original one. The frame colour and white so if the machine's black, well this is the one.

Chainguard: that tab dates to about 1968 I believe, prior to that the guard was affixed to the downtube with the standard frame clip. The guard would say Robin Hood on it, yes.

P.C. Kohler


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Rod brake bike posted by David on 6/28/2003 at 11:48:39 AM
But don't be a purist about saddle originality. A Brooks B72 or 66 is perfectly appropriate. A comfortable saddle is the best favor you can do for yourself; just put a tag on the old mattress saddle so you remember where it came from!

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Rod brake bike posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/28/2003 at 1:43:18 PM
This nice clean Robin Hood just came up on eBay (surprise!) in that "gold" colour which, I have a hunch, is actually called Polychromatic Amber and was the same hue which graced Humber Beeston club bikes of the 1950-51 period. Some nice pix with this listing showing the chainguard, transfers etc.

P.C. Kohler

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Rod brake bike posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/28/2003 at 10:32:45 PM
Sorry, the url for this listing is:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2181547496&category=420

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Rod brake bike posted by David on 6/29/2003 at 3:41:41 AM
That IS a clean Robin Hood! Do you think it's a 21" or 23" frame? (Lousy picture!)

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Rod brake bike posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/29/2003 at 12:52:07 PM
Looks 21"

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Rod brake bike posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/29/2003 at 12:52:11 PM
Looks 21"

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Rod brake bike posted by Joe on 6/30/2003 at 5:33:48 AM
Hi,
I found a chainguard to match yesterday at a local yard sale, it came attached to another Robin Hood Frame, same color, black, with good paint and decal. This one has a different frame style though, the top tube is slightly curved near the headtube? Was this a different model or a different year? The frame is red, someone retrofited the guard at some point, along with another black and white saddle with a Brooks Logo on the rear in as good shape as the one on mine.
I checked out the Rh on eBay, it looks about like mine, but my chainring pattern is different. Did they use different styles over the years?
I agree on the Brooks B-72 idea, I will probably tag and shelve the original seat in favor of comfort.
Thanks,
Joe






AGE / VALUE:   English front suspension posted by: sam on 6/26/2003 at 9:19:53 PM
That motorized rudge Tom spotted reminded me ,we don't see english springer forks often.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   English front suspension posted by Ian on 6/28/2003 at 9:13:23 AM
Sam, I just picked up a collection of eight powered bikes today and among them is a bike with what looks like a very lightweight set of veteran forks which look like Druid ones or similar and have a large single spring in the centre. Also acquired a set of what I believe are Webb cycle forks which have pressed steel side plates and a very small spring (kind of like a car valve spring) in the centre. I also have a set of suspension units which bolt to the bottom of conventional forks and then to the axle and look like they perhaps contain rubber in torsion. These are very small in size and I am looking forward to trying them on something. It seems that the English mostly used suspension on bikes that were fitted with motors in an attempt to make a motorbike out of a pushbike. Let me know if you want photos. Regards, Ian.






AGE / VALUE:   Page header material suggestion posted by: humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 6/26/2003 at 5:15:22 PM
The post about the halogen Sturmey-Archer light bulbs for the dynohub lights.
We need a permanent page with contact information (addresses, e- mail, web address.

So when somebody needs a bulb, they know who all to get it from (and it can be more than one place to get a bulb from)

Under cycle lamp bulbs: the parts for sale section here
reflectalite
Sheldon and anybody else.
A internet yellow page directory on who to contact for everything. Hub overhaul, painting, parts, tires, literature.
A directory for folks with interest in these.
understand what I am saying. I cannot remember all these web addresses.

Put everybody in there all the biggies and the smaller sources also.

Make it easy as pie to find parts or services.

Who re- magnitizes the dynohubs again? I forgot who and I forgot the address. Me! with dead dyno's all over.


   RE:AGE / VALUE: Page header material suggestion posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/27/2003 at 1:13:05 AM
Excellent suggestion, either here or, if need be, in a Files Section of "Roll Britannia".

P.C. Kohler

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Page header material suggestion posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/27/2003 at 1:21:33 PM
Chris, I have set up a British Bike Sources table in the DATABASE section of "Roll Britannia"... hopefully this will be a good repository for sources of parts, repair people, cycle shops specialising in our machines etc. The LINKS section has a lot of good websites etc. and also worth consulting.

P.C. Kohler






AGE / VALUE:   inlaw vacation! Bike or no bike posted by: Chris on 6/26/2003 at 4:29:12 PM
I was told right off!
"You're not taking any bikes on this vacation!"
Ok, makes sense to me!!
Walking thru town, tired, hot feet, the absense of a cool breeze in the face. The excess time taken, the pain in the tail of having to carry something instead of slinging it on the rear rack. This whole town should be renting out bikes and nobody is. No dynohub lit evening rides in one of Michigan's choicest tourist areas. We can walk instead and arrive back home tired out physically (and after w/ these ill idiots) emotionally!
"You are not taking your car." "We want the togetherness!" This way if I want to stop and see something they can (again) tell me to: "Come back up her on your own for that" Never mind it's 500 miles each way. If you are and adult riding in a van and you ask to stop for 3 minutes and they say: "No." and ignore you.Is that legal? "Town is not far, you can walk!"
The absense of my own transportation in general bothers me. Being under their control basically.

On my wall I have a picture of a fellow I sent vintage cycle parts to.
He's smiling and leaning up against the bike. He's on a island and he's happy in work, play, and from what I heard, in the marriage too.
Be happy, be free, enjoy this life. It is the only one you will ever have. This is something I say to myself as I sit in tears reading an obituary of a friend I had lunches with. I finally bought his bike and listened to hours of stories and he was wonderful, good, intelligent, company to keep.
Another bike pal of mine who is a goldmine of information has some crap going on at home and I intend to get him out of that house and back on his bike and ride again. The collecting, the hobknobing, the tinkering and he never rides.The trouble in the background during the call. I asked: "Do you ever get out and ride?" He said
"No." That's no good!
I hope everybody here is enjoying the summer.








ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Can one disable the coaster brake on a SA TCW hub? posted by: Frank in Boise on 6/26/2003 at 4:35:42 PM
As part of an experiment, I recently laced a Sturmey Archer TCW ("tri-coaster") hub into a modern 700c rim. I have now had enough of the coaster brake and would like to convert it to a free-wheeling hub (like the AW).

I could just substitute the TCW with an AW hub, but I also thought I could disable the coaster brake in the TCW by removing the appropriate parts. I peered at an exploded diagram last night and thought that one or all of the so-called brake band, brake plate, thruster plate, or brake cam might be removed. And what about the external arm which attaches to the frame? Can this be removed or is it necessary to hold a cover in place?

As I recall, in a recent posting on his modern roadster, Sheldon Brown mentioned that he disabled the brake in a Shimano Nexus hub. My question is whether anyone has done this with a TCW.

Thanks,
Frank


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Can one disable the coaster brake on a SA TCW hub? posted by Chris on 6/26/2003 at 5:12:12 PM
Guys, help him here will you?
P.C.?
The Shimano Nexus hub has a literally add on roller brake attachment and you can remove that in 5 seconds. It's either, or and it is a clean quick conversion. Not so with a T.C.W. mark 1, 2 or 3.
What version do you have? MK 1 ,2, OR 3?
The T.C.W. is a whole another ball of wax.
I don't know about the T.C.W. question as I don't use them.
Weird parts in the Sturmey collection I never use and don't recognize.

The rate of braking depended on what gear you were in with these and there was a flaw they tried to overcome and this was replaced by the SC3 hub gear.
Funny with all the parts I have, I never ride a 3 speed coaster brake.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Can one disable the coaster brake on a SA TCW hub? posted by Frank on 6/26/2003 at 5:43:12 PM
I'll have to look when I get home, but if I remember correctly the hub is dated 1960.
It's from a Schwinn Racer which I bought for $1 !

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Can one disable the coaster brake on a SA TCW hub? posted by Chris on 6/26/2003 at 11:27:46 PM
That could be a MK 1 or 2.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Can one disable the coaster brake on a SA TCW hub? posted by Frank on 6/26/2003 at 11:45:45 PM
I just looked at the hub. It says March 1960. I don't see any sort of Mark I or Mark II labeling.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Can one disable the coaster brake on a SA TCW hub? posted by Chris on 6/26/2003 at 11:50:32 PM
Would be mk 1 then. the early one.

You wish to disconnect the brake and just use it as a 3 speed is that right?

Keep prodding the group, here I'm sure somebody has done this.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Can one disable the coaster brake on a SA TCW hub? posted by Warren on 6/27/2003 at 1:35:15 AM
I think your original sentiment to lace up an AW makes a heck of a lot more sense. TCW's are more rare. I'll trade you for it...

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Can one disable the coaster brake on a SA TCW hub? posted by Frank on 6/27/2003 at 4:37:51 PM
I don't think it will work (i.e. to disable the coaster brake). I disassembled the hub last night, following the instructions of that very nice 1954 service manual, and found the following:

The brake parts are coupled to the low-gear pawl ring. Therefore, if one removes the brake components, the first-gear pawls will be inactive. This has the following result:
2nd and 3rd gear are OK, but it freewheels (no drive power) with the indicator chain in the 1st-gear position. I would consider using a two-speed, but not one which freewheels when the indicator chain is tight!

Net result: leave the TCW alone and mount an AW! (As Warren said).

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Can one disable the coaster brake on a SA TCW hub? posted by Frank on 6/27/2003 at 4:41:16 PM
Warren, Please send your email if you're interested in a trade. I have a 1959 40-spoke TCW and a 1960 36-spoke TCW.
Frank






MISC:   ROADSTER PEDALS posted by: ron on 6/26/2003 at 11:47:35 AM
the rubber blocks keep turning even thought the bolt is tight??? How do I stop the rubber block on the petals from spinning, I can barley ride the bike.


   RE:MISC:   ROADSTER PEDALS posted by Chris on 6/26/2003 at 5:25:27 PM
Serrated toothed washers?
Good question!

   RE:MISC:   ROADSTER PEDALS posted by Ben on 6/26/2003 at 5:39:10 PM
You are not going to like this answer, but your problem is partly pedaling technique. The pedal rubber will roll if your foot pressure shifts fore and aft while you pedal. If you can, concentrate on keeping your foot still and the force relatively constant while you pedal.

Second answer: most pedals have flanges on the end that engage with the rubber parts to restrain them from spinning. If the rubber is sufficiently worn, then spinning is inevitable result.

   RE:RE:MISC:   ROADSTER PEDALS posted by Edward in Vancouver on 6/26/2003 at 9:39:44 PM
Try Chris's idea with toothed washers. I rebuilt my pedals and substituted the square bolts from Japanese or German pedals. Had to force them in the pedal with a hammer, but they don't rotate. Never figured out why Raleigh and those guys used round bolts to clamp in the rubber blocks.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC: ROADSTER PEDALS posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/27/2003 at 4:36:13 AM
Hmmm... good question. Consider though that those turning blocks, annoying as they are, assure even wear on the block treads.... to me another quirk of these machines.

P.C. Kohler, now more into RRA style rat-trap "quill" pedals.






MISC:   Derailleur on a Roadster (Part 2) posted by: Ian on 6/26/2003 at 8:49:47 AM
A few days ago I posted a question on this subject and was offered lots of good advice so thought I would post an update on progress so far. To set the scene I am trying to do this for fun with bits I have or can acquire for next to nothing. So far I have discovered that one can fit a five speed Shimano cluster (3/32 chain) on to a steel hub meant for a single speed freewheel but it does not go all the way on so the inner sprocket is a little way out from the spokes which is a pity as it increases the width of the set-up a little. Maybe there are better hubs but as I said I am using what I have. One needs a longer axle and a spacer between the cone and the locknut. These seem quite common in my box of rear axle bits in various lengths.With just a very little of what Sheldon calls "cold setting" of the frame the wheel now fits in. I have also found that I have some Williams pattern (five square head bolts on a small pitch circle) front sprockets which are definitely thinner than the ones on most of my roadsters and will take 3/32 chain. They do not have the Williams logo so must be pattern parts but obviously this pattern of bolt on single sprocket was used on bikes with the narrow chain. I have also discovered some genuine Williams ones with two sprockets bolted together which opens up the possibility of a two speed front set-up later. I have a big assortment of bottom bracket axles for cottered cranks so my question now is should I align the front sprocket with the inner, outer or middle rear sprocket? Derailleur, shifter and cable in the next episode. Thanks, Ian.


   RE:MISC:   Derailleur on a Roadster (Part 2) posted by Ian on 6/26/2003 at 9:21:43 AM
Further to the above I meant to say that I have not yet altered the dishing of the wheel and cannot see the need to. I seem to be able to get the rim central in the fork and chainstay and am reluctant to chane the spokes on a new wheel that has just been built if I don't have to. Maybe it is because I have only "set one side of the frame? Am I looking at it wrong? Can somebody explain the need to do this. As long as one can get the wheel alignment and the chain line correct I cannot see a reason. Thanks, Ian.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Derailleur on a Roadster (Part 2) posted by Chris on 6/26/2003 at 4:11:33 PM
What stoped me in my tracks was the fact that you cannot weld on a Raleigh 20/30 carbon steel frame
So I was told. I wonder if he was wrong with that.

I built a wheel and selected an Huret Alvit derailer that takes the 1/8 chain but the straight out rear droupouts are not meant for a derailer.
This is why we were going to weld it.
I wanted to do an hybrid Raleigh Tourist bike.
How do you intend to have the rear derailer mounted on the frame and how will you have proper derailer alignment?
If you can put club bike type ends on a 28 inch wheel roadster that would be ideal.
They never offered that style ends on a heavy roadster, at least that what I have seen.

   RE:MISC:   Derailleur on a Roadster (Part 2) posted by sam on 6/26/2003 at 6:03:41 PM
Chris is going to drop dead when he sees these bikes! No one told me I couldn't weld on a DL-1 frame so I brazed on the cable guides--will they fall off?Hope not , I still need to braze on the mounts for the V brakes,which will work on Alum rims in british size.I plan on talkin to Robert on that part before I go any more--sure don't want to get it together and find the brake pads don't hit the rims---sam

   RE:MISC:   Derailleur on a Roadster (Part 2) posted by Ray on 6/26/2003 at 9:14:35 PM
You do know of course that Cyclo sold a derailleur conversion kit for roadsters. It took the three speed and added 3 cogs with a derailleur effectivly making it a 9 speed. I have one on one of my roadsters and it is a hoot. I cannot find the proper cable casing yet and the stops so I routed the bare cable using a SA pulley on the seat tube. It works but not as well as it would with the proper accessories. It certainly turns heads at shows.

   RE:MISC:   Derailleur on a Roadster (Part 2) posted by steve on 6/26/2003 at 9:47:20 PM
Try putting a Sturmey cog spacer under the fixed cup of the bottom bracket. That will shift the chainring outward, hopefully enough to match the freewheel.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Derailleur on a Roadster (Part 2) posted by Chris on 6/26/2003 at 11:42:20 PM
The washer on the fixed cog is a great idea. Fooling around with different spindles may work. A machinist can make up a perfectly right on spindle for whatever you need. This accomadates the double or triple front chainring. I was in touch with Bulleseye for a custom made bottombracket spindle. It never went thru because I got busy with other stuff, and I'm not sure if they are still in business so you would have to check. That would be a cotterless version of course which converts it to derailer chain. That is not necessary because the Alvit and other old French derailers worked with 1/8 or the 3/32 chain.

The cable stop widgets are not difficult for me. I have em!
If you don't, you can use regular derailer cable stops off of any old 10 speed.

Fixing the adaptor claw on the bike either with J.B. weld or if I was told a lot of garbage and you really can weld onto a Raleigh Roadster Tourist frame with the 28 inch wheels.
This is the same frame material as is the later U.S. market intended, Raleigh Sports and those have welded or brazed chainguard stays. So why not be able to weld on a derailer claw?
Use the Cyclo cogs with an Alvit and a narrow type of 1/8 chain.
This is on a bike that would not have an enclosed guard.

The French bikes had 28 inch wheel roadsters and derailer gears because their old 28 inch wheel bikes had the ten speed derailer dropouts.

I'll try to weld on a claw on an old frame and see what happens.

   RE:MISC:   Derailleur on a Roadster (Part 2) posted by sam on 6/27/2003 at 1:15:08 AM
I count at least 3 in the works now--see what you started Ian.And I think Ron was also interested.Should be good to see how these kustom projects turn out--sam

   RE:RE:MISC:   Derailleur on a Roadster (Part 2) posted by Ian on 6/27/2003 at 9:20:10 AM
First part of the answer is that I have a selection of clamp on outer cable stops and intend to put just a short outer cable from the downtube to the derailleur. I have looked at older claw type derailleur which goes on the axle with a separate small bolt to stop it rotating. I intend to cut, reverse and weld the claw as per Sam's suggestion and put a spacer into the front of the axle slot with a nut and large washer on the inside. I have so many bottom bracket axles that I can put the front sprocket virtually anywhere but so far no-one has answered the question as to which of the rear sprockets the front one should be aligned with? Also do I really need to re-dish the wheel and if so why? Thanks, Ian.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Interesting British Bike posted by: Tom on 6/26/2003 at 4:07:39 AM
Has anyone got any clue as to what this is. How old is it. http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2180874234&category=420&rd=1


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Interesting British Bike posted by Ian on 6/26/2003 at 8:37:51 AM
Tom, I cant tell you much about the bike frame but PowerPak were one of many clip on auxillary motors sold in the late 40's and early 50's when petrol was still in short supply and expensive. I have six different makes and models at present, all between 30 and 50cc (most are 33 or 36cc, probably a tax thing) and can think of another six of the same era. The English National Autocycle Club deals with these and puts out a neat little mag called "Buzzing". Do a search under that name and you should come up with something. The forks look like Druid brand off a veteran motorcycle but may have been made especially for powered cycles. I have had other makes of front suspension which were made for bicycles when fitted with motors. Hope this kindles your interest, powered bikes of the vintage era can be a whole new sphere of having fun and when (not if) they break down you can have the fun of pedalling all that extra weight home! Cheers, Ian.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Interesting British Bike posted by Ian on 6/26/2003 at 9:12:33 AM
Web site for the N.A.C.C is http://www.buzzing.org/

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Interesting British Bike posted by Chris on 6/26/2003 at 11:48:09 PM
No offense to Roger Worton is intended at all. He's a great guy. I was just bummed out that he could not ship tires and motors and 95% of all he has to offer can not be sent to the U.S. because of insurance liability laws. The catalog was chock full of goodies even for the English Roadster folks. Rims, handlebars, all kinds of neat things right up our alley (or lane)
Still others can get it where they live.
Autocycle and cyclemotor spares, Roger Worton
look up the web site
The newsletter is called: Buzzing