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Archived: English Roadsters







AGE / VALUE:   Western Flyer posted by: James on 4/21/2004 at 9:10:19 AM
I found a beautiful western flyer 3 speed today, built by Raleigh, dated 1961 with prestube rack. What is the story on Western Flyer, was Western a chain like sears? Nice bike and cheap. Don't have any real need for it but a Raleigh for $30 in that condition, I couldn't not buy it.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Western Flyer posted by David on 4/21/2004 at 11:34:54 AM
Western Auto was a chain of ("guys' stuff?") auto supply, sporting goods, etc stores. I think they provided service, too (tires and batteries, e.g.) and were very common in the 50s and 60s. I haven't seen one in ages, though I think the name still exists.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Western Flyer posted by Joe on 4/22/2004 at 7:51:31 AM
I believe Western Auto Supply is now part of or had been bought out by Advance Auto Parts. At some point they were part of Sears Roebuck and Co. since the local store here sold Sears/Craftsman tools. The local store name changed to Advance Auto Parts about three years ago. Somewhere along the line they were also affiliated with Parts Plus as well. With the cahnge to Advance Auto they no longer sell Sears items.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Curious 1950 Armstrong clubman? posted by: Geoff Rogers on 4/20/2004 at 6:54:35 PM
About a year ago, I met a fellow at the local transfer station removing the "ARMSTRONG" chainwheel from a battered, obviously brush-painted tall men's fame bicycle. He said he owned a bike store and wanted the sprocket to hang on the wall, but I was welcome to the rest. Naturally, I tossed it into the back of my car and dragged it home. The rear hub was dated 2-50, normal AW 3-speed, but it has EA1 26 X 1-1/4" Dunlop rims. I wondered if it was special in some way. Scraping some thick black paint off the frame, I discovered it was originally silver, which led me to think it was not your ordinary run-of-the-mill Sports machine. Last week I took a look at the front hub: it's a Bayliss-Wiley, which I think is a club bike fitting, isn't it? In any event, it looks nice, with a fliptop lubricator, so I will use it on my 30's R-R-A, which came with much inferior stuff somebody had bolted on many years ago. I recently found a NOS black enamelled EA1 32-hole rim, so I may have that radially laced on. Now I need a matching rear rim with 40 holes (I have two with 36!).
Can anybody shed light on this odd Armstrong? It did not have fenders or chainguard; maybe it was a clubman machine? Can't remember if there were pedals. I would be willing to trade the frame and fork (I think it's 24") for something I can use on the R-R-A or one of my other Brit bikes. Anybody interested? It might be a way to get started on building a Club bike for cheap (or maybe not?).
Having Way Too Much Fun With Old British Machinery,
Geoff Rogers


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Curious 1950 Armstrong clubman? posted by Ward Davis on 4/21/2004 at 1:07:28 AM
Are the dunlop rims in decent shape? I'll buy them!

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Curious 1950 Armstrong clubman? posted by tod kapke on 4/25/2004 at 2:13:21 AM
I might be interested in buying it from you.. been looking for a clubman type bike for awhile.. some kind of starter bike.. wish i had something to trade.. most of my stuff is vintage road bike or mountain bike.. email me if you are interested in selling it.






MISC:   FW 4 speed posted by: Lawrence P H Bradley on 4/20/2004 at 6:08:39 PM
I have a 1960's Sport with an FW hub. Would this have been an after-market conversion, or was it possible to order a bike with the FW hub? It has a locking fork but no dyno hub.


   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:   FW 4 speed posted by Lawrence P H Bradley (Tacoma, WA) on 4/26/2004 at 10:12:40 PM
Yes, the collar on the headset is there, along with the transfer (decal) carrying the warning!

   RE:MISC:   FW 4 speed posted by Edward in Vancouver on 4/21/2004 at 8:08:38 PM
Are you sure its a "Sports"? As far as I know locking forks only came on the "Superbe" model. As the Superbe was the "high end" model, it could have come with a 4 speed hub and front dyno-hub-which might have been replaced with a regular front wheel at a later date. More info please, what date is on the FW? What kind of spoking on the rear wheel and the front wheel? Any of those little copper grounding plates still attached to the seatpost bolt, or tell-tale scratches on the paintwork where a cable clip would have secured wiring to the frame?

   RE:RE:MISC:   FW 4 speed posted by Lawrence P H Bradley on 4/22/2004 at 4:26:08 PM
I did wonder if it is indeed a Superbe. It's at the back of my shed at the moment so I can't easily pull it out to check for the clues you suggested. One other thing is that it had the better saddle (is that the 66 or the 72?) I pulled the innards out of the hub and temporarily put a 3 speed guts in it. I think the hub says its 1968. And I think it had 40 spokes on the rear. It has a plastic pulley. Any thoughts on if it's worth restoring or just leaving as is? I suspect I need to replace the pawls on the hub as the gears wander and then end up in high. Are the pawls hard to replace?

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   FW 4 speed posted by Lawrence P H Bradley (Tacoma) on 4/23/2004 at 1:52:38 AM
OK, I dug the machine in question out of the shed and took a butchers at it! The hub says its a 66. Rear wheel 40, front 32. There does not appear to be any sign that it has been monkeyed with much over the years. It has been very well used but not abused. The poor thing is just knackered! However, no dents in the frame, rims straight, nothing missing. It looks so much like the bikes so many of me mates had in boarding school that I really want to restore it. The date, 66, is interestingly the year I was packed off to baording school! Have I become emotionally attached to this machine?! BTW my other bikes include a 78 Sports with a coaster brake (horrid thing--the coaster brake, not the bike!) an early Super Course and my pride and joy: a pristine Mercian.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:   FW 4 speed posted by Edward in Vancouver on 4/24/2004 at 4:58:18 AM
I know Raleigh changed the spoke patterns for both wheels to 36 in the late '60's so the wheels are most likely original. It's the locking fork that confuses me, as far as I know they weren't available on any other model but the Superbe, and the Superbe always came with a dyno-hub, either an AG (3 spd rear) or an FG (four speed rear), or in models from the mid '60's on, a GH 6 (front wheel) Other than that the bikes were the same. Does your frame have the brazed-on collar at the bottom of the head tube for the lock? A Sports would have come with a B72, the one with no coil springs, which some claim to have more stabibility than the B66, but both saddles share the same leather upper.
If the frame and wheels are still true, it's worthwhile to restore, the only question is how far to go. This is only limited by how much you want to spend, and how much time you're willing to spend. Ahh, time and money, give me unlimited amounts of those two things, and I'd change the world! Eventually, that is...
You can get alot of information on this site, and alot of info on S/A hubs on Tony Hadland's site with explicit, detailed instructions on how to take apart and most importantly put together most SA hubs. The FW and AW share alot of common parts, pawls and springs included, so you shouldn't have any shortage of spare parts.

This site has been invaluable for me in getting a silver spray painted Superbe back to factory condition, and I am forever grateful.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Jammed Brake posted by: Mike on 4/19/2004 at 11:04:32 PM
Hi, those of you familiar with adjusting rod brakes know that you have a tube nut you loosen and you slide the fork into the correct position, then tighten the tube nut. My problem is that the front rod is jammed even when the tube nut is completely loose. I can't move the brake saddle even with the thing loose. The back works fine. What is the solution to loosen the rod? I tried oil and wiggling the rod but it still didn't work.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Jammed Brake posted by Tim on 4/20/2004 at 9:15:09 AM
Try a bit of heat on it with a small blowtorch, but be careful. Swing the assembly up away from the headtube. You should not discolour the chrome as long as you take care. I find white spirit works better in situations like this as it penetrates better.

Regards,

Tim

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Jammed Brake posted by GMS on 4/20/2004 at 9:47:57 PM
Try taking EVERYTHING apart, take the handle bars off the bike(loosen both the back and front jam nuts for the rods) and then pull then both out, then take the stuck brake lever completrly off the handle bar, this is tricky but when you take it all apart and then clean it all up and grease all the pivots from the inside it all works much better. When I picked up my phillips in a gravel pit last year both the brake handles were siezed, but with ALOT of penetrating lube and moving them back and fourth they now both work perfect....un like the rest of the rod brake system which was totally shot. And use some good penetrating oil too...WD40 is crap(its mostly water) try Rust Check or Ronson multilube...they work much better on rusted and siesed things






AGE / VALUE:   Dump Find! posted by: Bryan on 4/19/2004 at 11:00:07 PM
I mentioned here a few weeks ago that my town dump put up a "No Picking" sign. Well, this week, they added the words "absolutely" before it, and "of any kind." after it. But alas, I see bikes! So I casually walked right past the sign, and grabbed the ladies Triumph. There was also a Royce Union with some sort of SA 3 speed hub that I wanted, but I wanted to make a fast get away. I was so prepared to look the guy in the eye and saY "I'm not picking, I'm recycling" if they gave me any trouble, but it was so busy they didn't even notice. When I got it home it turned out to be a 1968 with a 3 speed coaster brake hub. It cleaned up well to a nice metallic blue. Keep your eyes out, its spring cleaning time!


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Dump Find! posted by GMS on 4/20/2004 at 9:50:07 PM
no picking...I thought we told you to throw that sign away;)

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Dump Find! posted by Chris on 4/23/2004 at 5:46:46 PM
No bike is worth them getting sticky with you and calling you a tresspasser. The officer that drives up and asks "What's the problem?" and here they are pointing a finger at you. It's not worth it.

I'd be careful, it is posted.






AGE / VALUE:   Hercules Tourist Sport posted by: charlie on 4/19/2004 at 3:11:53 PM
I recently purchased a Hercules 3 Speed Tourist Sport at a garage sale for $1. It has all its orginal parts and decals. I think it was built in the 50's. I'm not a bike collector. I'm interested in the history of the company and the value of an all original bike like this. I will be looking for the only thing missing and that is the tire pump that goes on this bike. I need help in purchasing the right one.

Thank You
Charlie


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Hercules Tourist Sport posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 4/20/2004 at 1:16:09 AM
Tourist Sport, eh? I'm not familiar, but.... Nice find! And a great price as well! Check the rear hub. Pretty much all Sturmey Archer hubs are date coded with the month and year of manufacture of the hub itself. That should give you a pretty good idea as to the overall age of the bicycle.

Just curious, does it have Roller "Rod" brakes or cables?

"Correct" frame pumps are available here on Oldroads from VVVintage, or on occaision, turn up on Ebay.

As to the history of Hercules, I will defer to those more knowledgeable here... though I do know that they were either associated with, or bought out by AMF in the 1960's. I have a ladies AMF / Hercules Sports style bike in the herd here.

Welcome to the world of Vintage British Velocipedes. A finer ride, you would be hard pressed to come by!

Regards!

Larry "Boneman" Bone

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Hercules Tourist Sport posted by Mike on 4/20/2004 at 2:19:29 AM
I think if I recall that Hercules was bought by Raleigh in the early 60s and their product was distributed by American Machine Foundry in the USA. AMF Hercules is pretty common, but a solid bicycle. I bought one for just $10 awhile back for my lady. Of course I end up with the DL1... As for the pumps, they actually look nicer than the original English parts. I have one on my Sports and it's shiny-er and better-made than the old Raleigh one on my DL1 Tourist.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Hercules Tourist Sport posted by Ken on 4/24/2004 at 3:57:59 PM
Rule #1 is, consult Sheldon Brown.
Rule #2... always consult Sheldon Brown.
Rule #3: Captain Bike has your back.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/english-3.html






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1963 Lenton posted by: Geoff Rogers on 4/19/2004 at 1:32:57 AM
I just bought a 1963 men's Lenton and wonder what it's worth. It is green and mostly original, with decent metallic green paint and decent decals, nice chrome, 26 x 1-1/4" steel rims (dented but useable), Wrights leather racing saddle, steel dropped bars. It came with some fat whitewall tires, which I have changed for some NOS Carlisle blackwalls that are much narrower and look the part. The whitewalls look like they belong on a '57 Cadillac or a ballooner. The bike has been in a prang, as the front fork is bent, but it's not really bad and I think somebody clever could straighten it. The frame appears straight. It has an AW hub with a 2-speed Huret derailleur and chrome steel fenders with heron decal and white rubber reflector on the rear. It is kinda heavy for a club bike but looks neat. Any ideas what it might be worth? To be honest, I bought it to resell because I need help financing this curious English cycle hobby of mine, and, well, I have too many bikes. Also, is it gauche to ask what it's worth here, when you know my motives? I am being honest, at least, if brazen!
If I make anything on the deal, I will put it towards my 1930s Raleigh Record Ace, which needs an enormous infusion of capital and more time than I should spend on it. Anybody have some Marsh or Bailey dropped bars and a headclip-fixing stem? And a pair of Dunlop Sprites? And a 30's 4-speed hub? Silly question.....
Geoff Rogers


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1963 Lenton posted by P.C. Kohler on 4/19/2004 at 2:23:53 PM
Sounds like you have the last of the Lentons... these seem to have been sold in the USA c. 1962-3 as Raleighs and Robin Hoods. I believe the reason it's heavy is that these machines, sadly, didn't have Reynolds 531 main triangle tubing as did previous Lentons. I assume there is no Reynolds decal on the seat tube? Everything else jibes with this being a late model but down market Lenton.

How much is it worth? $125-225. Sadly there seems to be more demand out there for '70s Raleigh Sports and DL-1s but maybe nicely cleaned up and properly presented on eBay, you'd get more. I know a perfect Robin Hood Lenton Sports fetched a dismally small sum recently.

Good luck on the '30s Record Ace.. fabulous machine! For parts, try Pete Paine in the UK first. Stem and bars are out there, 30s Sturmey hubs... well good luck on that!

P.C. Kohler






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1963 Lenton posted by: Geoff Rogers on 4/19/2004 at 1:32:57 AM
I just bought a 1963 men's Lenton and wonder what it's worth. It is green and mostly original, with decent metallic green paint and decent decals, nice chrome, 26 x 1-1/4" steel rims (dented but useable), Wrights leather racing saddle, steel dropped bars. It came with some fat whitewall tires, which I have changed for some NOS Carlisle blackwalls that are much narrower and look the part. The whitewalls look like they belong on a '57 Cadillac or a ballooner. The bike has been in a prang, as the front fork is bent, but it's not really bad and I think somebody clever could straighten it. The frame appears straight. It has an AW hub with a 2-speed Huret derailleur and chrome steel fenders with heron decal and white rubber reflector on the rear. It is kinda heavy for a club bike but looks neat. Any ideas what it might be worth? To be honest, I bought it to resell because I need help financing this curious English cycle hobby of mine, and, well, I have too many bikes. Also, is it gauche to ask what it's worth here, when you know my motives? I am being honest, at least, if brazen!
If I make anything on the deal, I will put it towards my 1930s Raleigh Record Ace, which needs an enormous infusion of capital and more time than I should spend on it. Anybody have some Marsh or Bailey dropped bars and a headclip-fixing stem? And a pair of Dunlop Sprites? And a 30's 4-speed hub? Silly question.....
Geoff Rogers







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1970 Hercules posted by: Pete on 4/19/2004 at 1:07:13 AM
The chrome is glistening and I have purchased 2 kenda WW tires so I can match up. Is anyone intersted in the dunlop that is on the ft? It has good tread and is weatherchecked but not horribly. Email me if wanted. 26x1 3/8. I mentioned in an earlier email a friend was cleaning his barn and
offered me and old schwinn 2 spd.. It is a black Fleet that rides ok.. a little bearing click.rough paint Etc. I need to know which message board would be best!!
Pete
lutefisk@sbcglobal.net







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Plastic Face Needed posted by: Mike on 4/18/2004 at 10:40:49 PM
Hi, I have a 1978 Raleigh Tourist, the shifter has no cover or painting on it. I'm assuming that means it needs that 60s/70s clear plastic shift cover. Does anyone have an extra one of these or one for sale? All I need is the cover.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Plastic Face Needed posted by Ralph on 4/19/2004 at 2:34:40 PM
I have a small drawer full of the things in mostly well used condition. If you'll send me a self addressed stamped envelope, I think I could part with one.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Plastic Face Needed posted by Mike on 4/19/2004 at 5:56:59 PM
Sure, what address should I send to?

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Plastic Face Needed posted by Ralph on 4/20/2004 at 10:31:18 PM
E-mail me and I'll send you my address.






AGE / VALUE:   Huffy raleigh(ebay outing) posted by: sam on 4/18/2004 at 3:25:40 AM
Interesting chainring on this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2239285903&category=420&sspagename=rvi:1:1
and if any of ya'll buy this you can send me the seat for my Dayton/Huffy ballooner! Ha,Ha!!!---sam







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Loose Brakes posted by: James on 4/17/2004 at 1:27:12 AM
I'm new to a roadster I recently got, it has rod brakes that I haven't worked on before. How does one tighten the brakes? The levers, especially the left one goes way in before any sort of braking occurs. The handle on the left side can also wiggle in place. What should I tighten?


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Loose Brakes posted by James on 4/17/2004 at 1:35:11 AM
Also, my handgrips are loose, is there any way to tighten them? I don't want to put pressure and damage the bars.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Loose Brakes posted by James on 4/17/2004 at 9:04:56 AM
I learned something new the other day, use hairspray when installing grips, spray some on the bars and they slide on with little effort, adjust quickly and they will get stuck in that position.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Loose Brakes posted by james on 4/17/2004 at 9:07:31 AM
tell us about the roadster you got, what year, condition.
I have yet to find one and all my attempts to get one on ebay have been foiled by a certain master bidder. I've seen three roadsters in the past two days in Portland, all apparently ridden by art students.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Loose Brakes posted by James S on 4/17/2004 at 4:25:00 PM
I didn't use the internet, a local bike store here in New York had classifieds up and I noticed that a rod braker was in there for the price of $125. It's in good shape (well sorta dented in some spots with some scratches and paint loss but all and all pretty decent). The ones on the internet end up too expensive for my budget. I've noticed that the fairing for the rod brake lever that's loose moves. I'm not sure if that's normal, the inside loop that holds the bar wiggles when I work the lever. Regardless of that, the front brake lever sits noticably lower than the right, I would say due to the looseness. Does anyone have a fix? I've also heard about masking tape in a single layer under the grips. I was told that it doesn't leave a permanent residue and that it bulks up the bars.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Loose Brakes posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 4/18/2004 at 1:15:17 PM
Good price for a rod-brake roadster. Look around here on Oldroads. I'm sure there are links as to the adjustment and maintenance of rod brakes.

Additionally, you can actually get PARTS for the braking system here!

Best of luck with it!

Later!

Larry "Boneman" Bone






AGE / VALUE:   Dana transmission posted by: Ken on 4/16/2004 at 8:46:05 PM
Our old friend Morgan (who will probably be reading this) gave me an old Schwinn frame, perhaps a World or an early World Traveler, which had a Dana transmission installed. This is an epicyclic gearbox which looks to me for all the world like a washing machine transmission, uses dual cables to a twist grip shifter, and mounts to an Ashtabula crank housing. Coupled with the S-A hub, it would have been a nine-speed. Does anyone remember this gadget, and have anything to say about it?


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Dana transmission posted by sam on 4/17/2004 at 12:14:26 AM
Hi Ken,They show on ebay from time to time.Go for $20 to $40.I never saw one up close,so can't add more----sam






AGE / VALUE:    posted by: jeff on 4/16/2004 at 2:01:33 AM
I have Dunelt single speed 26" bike coaster brake, front cable brake . I know nothing about it .What is it.How
do i find the year
thanx for any help


   RE:AGE / VALUE: posted by Warren on 4/18/2004 at 11:51:13 PM
Tough to tell because the coasters weren't dated.

If it has the dimpled D on the fork crown, it is Raleigh made and likely dates from the mid 60's thru the 70's. That's as close as I think you will get.






AGE / VALUE:    posted by: jeff on 4/16/2004 at 2:01:33 AM
I have Dunelt single speed 26" bike coaster brake, front cable brake . I know nothing about it .What is it.How
do i find the year
thanx for any help