WANTED:†††1930's BSA rod brake pads/blocks -supplier posted by: J-P. Bingham on 5/12/2004 at 3:12:12 AM
Hi all you British Bike fans
I have a problem, I need 4 brake pads/blocks for a 1930's BSA rod brake bicycle.
I have purchased a set from "old-roads" - they unfortunately the wrong size - lenght, and width
Also wrong thread size - I would hate have to drill this complete and original bicycle -so original right down to the tyres!


So can anyone help with a supplier of pads/blocks for these great British bicycles - with summer coming I want to enjoy this machine safely

thanks in advance

JP


   RE:WANTED: 1930's BSA rod brake pads/blocks -supplier posted by Warren on 5/13/2004 at 12:39:20 AM
Give us some dimensions...or take some pics. Some of us weren't riding BSA's in the 30's






AGE / VALUE:†††values of tires posted by: marc on 5/11/2004 at 2:36:11 PM
I've recently picked up some ladies roadsters and some of them still have some older tires on them. I was wondering if there is any particular value in some of them. There are some dunlop champions, bates dunlop light weights, and Wards Riverside Lite-Wate


   RE:AGE / VALUE:†††values of tires posted by Chris on 5/11/2004 at 9:34:06 PM
Value? for a used tire? Hmmm...
However these are things that people keep because the new tires are not as good. The new treads are not as wide nor are they as deep plus nothing beats an original tire.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:†††values of tires posted by geo on 5/12/2004 at 2:11:15 PM
New tires are always better than 40 year old tires with cracking and dry rot despite what they were like when they were new in 1964. Ride safe with new rubber. I hope they're not worth much because I toss 'em.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:†††values of tires posted by Mike on 5/12/2004 at 6:22:08 PM
I keep my old ones if still usable as backup. As for new vs old tires, unless the old tires are still in good shape switch to new. Tires are one of the more disposable and easy to replace items. New tires are stronger and safer than old damaged ones. Used tire values, unless rare and in good shape, isn't much.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:†††values of tires posted by sam on 5/15/2004 at 1:52:28 AM
If the old tyres are in good shape,I'd clean ,rap,and save them if possible.Not for riders but for furture restorations that might use correct tyres only.---sam

   RE:AGE / VALUE: values of tires posted by Rif on 5/17/2004 at 4:38:02 AM
I play ring toss with my old tires by throwing them up in the ancient apple tree that sitts in my front yard. I call it a tire tree...
It's all about art and keeping the neighbors guessing.
LOL
Rif






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:†††S5 2 Troubleshooting posted by: Jacob on 5/11/2004 at 10:35:49 AM
Hi folks!

I need some help from a Sturmey-Archer therapist.

For the first time ever I have completely disassembled, overhauled and assembled an internal gear hub. It is a S5 2 from 1984. A few years ago I had a 700C wheel build with this hub. But recently the hub began to skip in third gear (direct drive), and I obtained some NOS spares for this hub (including axle, clutch, driver and some other stuff) and began to work on it. I have read what Sheldon Brown have written about internal gear hubs, and I have a print of the original Sturmey-Arhcer "technical leaflet" about this particulary hub, so I should be OK.

But I'm not.

Everything inside is cleaned and lubricated now, and wheel and hub run smoothly in the bike frame. I have fifth, fourth (left side lever) and third gear, but in second and first everything just spins around with no connection to the hubshell.

I have disassembled and assembled the hub so many times (I can do it real fast now), but I can't seem to find the fault.

Here is some of Sheldons words about S.A. three speeds:

Low Gear has the sprocket driving the gear ring, while the planet cage drives the hub. Thus, the wheel turns 3 times for every 4 revolutions of the sprocket, lowering the gear by 25%.

Middle Gear has the sprocket still driving the gear ring, but has the gear ring drive the hub. Thus, the drive is direct. Although the internal gears are always rotating when the sprocket is in motion, they don't have any effect on the drive in middle gear.

High Gear shifts the sprocket's drive to the planet cage, while the gear ring continues to drive the hub shell. Thus, the hub turns around 4 times for every 3 sprocket revolutions, giving a 33% gear increase.

This caused me to pay attention to the planet cage, but I can't find anything wrong with pawls etc.

This leave my bewildered. Do any of you guys have any hints, tips, solutions or comfort to offer?

I actually like riding the S5 2.

Thanks in advance
Jacob, Denmark


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:†††S5 2 Troubleshooting posted by James on 5/11/2004 at 11:20:20 AM
I don't know anything about 5 speed hubs, but I wonder if the problem is cable/shifter related, badly adjusted AWs can have missing gears.

Tell us about the danish built Raleigh Roadsters, I wish we could get those here, I can't even find a danish or dutch bike shop online that is willing to ship something as simple as a new vintage style headlamp.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:†††S5 2 Troubleshooting posted by Jacob on 5/11/2004 at 12:05:12 PM
James:

No, I think that both shifters, cables and adjustment are allright, and the complete set up worked fine previously.

The danish build Raleighs are nice bikes, and they appear much the same as the original Nottingham build Raleigh. They do not have the same "feel" however as a 30-40 year old machine. And the headtube and bottombracket now have modern standard dimensions. They come with a Brooks B66 as standard, the rims are dutch made steel, the bottom bracket box is made in Slovakia, the cotterless steelcranks are made by Stronglight, the kickstand is ESGE, the pedals Union. They come as singlespeeds, three speed german Torpedo, and with SRAM Pentasport (five speed). They are equipped with heron headlight bracket and fixed battery rear light on the rack.
I have a danish build Tourist de Luxe (28" wheels) which I costumized with a Sturmey Archer Sprinter Elite 5 speed hub with drumbrake and a SA drumbrake in the frontwheel too.
The old type Raleigh roadster is very popular here as daily transportation for a lot of people, and these bikes are of much, much better quality than any indian or chinese roadster I have seen.
Last year they even introduced a limited "100 year jubileum" edition complete with Sturmey 3 speed and rod-operated drumbrakes. Apparently the rods should be made of stainless steel instead of chromed steel. The linkages are made slightly different than original, and one thing I dont like about this bike is that it is sold without the heron bracket to better accomodate the two rods coming down from the bars. However I like the hole idea, but at 6.000 danish crowns I'm quite satisfied with my old (rod-operated) Raleighs and the machine mentioned above.

I dont think that any traditional danish bikeshop would be dealing online, it seems to be an issue for the roadracers and MTB's.
I have been looking for a nice chromed generatorpowered headlight on the danish market, and what I can get, is dutch-made retro-lights, which are really not nice, when you take a closer look, so I'm hoping for that old "new in the box" Sturmey, Miller, Lucifer, Bosch or whatever for my Tourist de Luxe.

Take care
Jacob


   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:†††S5 2 Troubleshooting posted by James on 5/11/2004 at 10:07:34 PM
I really liked the jubileum model, if I recall it's the only one that still has rod operated brakes. What tubing are they made out of? I take it they frames are built in denmark?
How have the BB and headsets changed? Is it just the threading that changed or the diameter of these parts?
Were older danish or dutch built raleighs built with Raleigh threading 26 tpi?


   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:†††S5 2 Troubleshooting posted by James on 5/11/2004 at 10:14:25 PM
The danish and dutch raleighs are very fascinating to someone like myself who lives in a country almost devoid of new city or commuting bicycles or good looking bicycles for that matter. We can get Kronans (in theory, the company isn't willing to ship many to the US), used dutch bikes from one importer and a couple of german brands each sold by exactly one dealer.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:†††S5 2 Troubleshooting posted by Tim Powell on 5/12/2004 at 9:42:47 AM
Hi,
The most common cause in an S5 for this is one of the cables binding acording to my technical manual. I generally flood the cable inside the sleeve with oil.
Hope this helps.

Tim

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:†††S5 2 Troubleshooting posted by Joe on 5/13/2004 at 7:23:55 AM
There's a copy of the original shop manual posted at: http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/'hadland/s52.pdf

(other models also posted at: http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/'hadland/samaintind.htm

This also includes a complete parts list.

You might want to pay attention to the end play or position of the axle as far as being centered. The right side of these hubs are basically the same as an AW 3 speed.
There is also a trouble shooting chart in the S5-2 manual above.


   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:†††S5 2 Troubleshooting posted by Doris Gist on 5/15/2004 at 8:26:39 PM
I would like some idea of the value of a HOPPER Lady's Model Light Roadster. Have original brochure and sales slip. Purchased new in 1954. Very good condition. Interested in selling.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:†††S5 2 Troubleshooting posted by Edward in Vancouver on 5/16/2004 at 1:59:53 AM
By all means, check out Mr. Hadland's site. The S/A manual posted on his site will have complete instructions, including the re-assembling and troubleshooting chart. This is absolutely platinum-plated information--for free!

I can relate to your experiences. Two years ago I had to re-build a N.O.S. FG hub simply because the original 50 yr old factory grease had dried to the consistancy of ear wax. After re-building, I had slipping problems in first and second gears. The problem? I'm embarassed, because I must have re-built and stripped the hub at least 3 times, even procured an ex-hospital issue surgical clamp to assist in puting in those #$%^!little dyno-hub fixing nuts. The problem was quite simply cone adjustment, it has to be just-so!
Good luck,
Edward in Vancouver






FOR SALE:†††Spring Cleaning posted by: VVVintage Vintage Bicycles, Inc. at OldRoads.com on 5/10/2004 at 12:09:10 PM
We need to make room for an upcoming purchase and have reduced prices on our inventory posted on OldRoads.com.
Click on "Bicycles for Sale" at the top of this page.

Vin - VVVintage Vintage Bicycles, Inc.
http://OldRoads.com







WANTED:†††sturmer archer wingnuts posted by: ron on 5/8/2004 at 11:16:46 PM
wanted SA wingnuts, front and rear.
thanks.


   RE:WANTED:†††sturmer archer wingnuts posted by Beth on 5/12/2004 at 1:59:53 AM
Hi saw your post, saw these on ebay while trolling. I'n positve these are what you need but worth a look.
Item # 2243966096






MISC:†††is this a raleigh sport? posted by: JIM on 5/8/2004 at 12:03:58 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2236692852&category=420&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBWA%3AIT&rd=1
what type of raleigh is this and is it rare!!


   RE:MISC:†††is this a raleigh sport? posted by James on 5/9/2004 at 7:22:49 PM
I can't stop looking at those photos, I'm in love with that bike. I wonder about the headbadge though, I was under the impression that headbadges weren't used until after the war. Are those quick release levers on the front hub?

   RE:RE:MISC:†††is this a raleigh sport? posted by ron on 5/10/2004 at 3:10:03 AM
hey james I bought this bike and it is a great bike for sure, those are quick release levers, they are not origanal though, trying to find SA wing nuts, glad you like the bike.






MISC:†††Bobby Bike posted by: jj on 5/7/2004 at 11:38:22 PM
So, is a "bobby bike" (the ones the English cops ride [or rode?] ) a DL-1 Tourist or something else????


   RE:MISC:†††Bobby Bike posted by Matthew on 5/8/2004 at 7:03:59 PM
There have been other threads of messages about this subject but generally you are not far wrong. Certainly post WW2 a DL-1, as you call it, would be a very suitable mount for a Policeman but pre WW2 this may not be the case. I have certainly seen bobby's on Triumphs (£15 brand new in the early sixties), Ralieghs and Eslwicks. I also know of Rudge, BSA, Humber and Hopper cycles which all did sterling service in various forces throughout the UK. Perhaps it would help to understnd that the county forces didn't supply bicycles in the same way that they provided Patrol cars (eventually but not as of right until the late 1960's). Individual staff would purchase their own cycle and be given grants to do so and been paid maintenance allowances for having a bicycle. There has been much discussion here about the twin top tube cycles as police machines and this is correct. Many country constables would choose the more robust twin tube models to cope with the rigors of country roads and tracks. Whilst the sturmey archer three speed became favoured later on, it was shunned by bobbies of old because the constant ticking made catching poachers much harder as they could here the three speed before they could see the bobby! We still have 'bobbies on bicycles' I last saw one about three months ago in Gt.Yarmouth. They tend to ride Trek and Saracen now with multi gears and cantilever brakes. we even have a Trek mounted Paramdeic in Norwich (Norfolk, UK), very handy in crowded city streets.

Evenin' All.

Matthew






AGE / VALUE:†††Yellow Blumels posted by: James on 5/6/2004 at 1:17:40 AM
I found a pair of apparently NOS yellow blumels at City Bikes in Portland, OR. If anyone is interested I could get them for you and ship them. I assume they are for the narrower club bike wheels. $20


   RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Yellow Blumels posted by James on 5/6/2004 at 1:19:48 AM
I thought about buying them for myself but I can't figure out what colour frame they would look good on.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Yellow Blumels posted by P.C. Kohler on 5/6/2004 at 2:07:50 PM
James... are these bright yellow or rather cream (off-white).. if the latter I'd be interested in them.

P.C. Kohler

   RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Yellow Blumels posted by Lenny on 5/6/2004 at 4:41:48 PM
Hello James,

If they are bright yellow, I would be interested in them. Please e-mail me. Thank you.

Lenny

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Yellow Blumels posted by James on 5/6/2004 at 6:46:56 PM
Bright Yellow






WANTED:†††WTB 6 1/2" fluted crankarm posted by: Warren on 5/6/2004 at 12:43:13 AM
I need the left arm only for a 1950 Lenton sports...it's a Raleigh though I would consider other brands similar in appearance. Although fluted, it's no lightweight...seen here in a wide shot at

http://retroraleighs.com/catalogs/1951-england/pages/04-lenton-sports.html

TIA

Warren Young
Toronto



   RE:WANTED:†††WTB 6 1/2 posted by Peter on 5/6/2004 at 7:18:58 PM
Warren - I have an OFMEGA left hand crank. I don't have the matching chainwheel so it is surplus. It is fluted, is the correct length, has very good chrome and looks quite like the correct Raleigh article - I have a 52 Lenton Sports for comparison. If it gets you out of trouble it is yours for the postage cost - but I am in the UK. Email if you are interested, I'll send a pic..

regards, Peter.






AGE / VALUE:†††Phillips built Ranger 3 speed posted by: marc on 5/5/2004 at 3:49:35 PM
I recently picked up a ladies bicycle built by Phillips for the Ranger bicycle company out of chicago. Is there any particular interest in either of these brands? or bikes imported by american companies from england? I can't find that much info about Ranger, does anyone know when they went out of business? The rear hub is stamped 70 but I thought ranger went out of buisness before this.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Phillips built Ranger 3 speed posted by sam on 5/5/2004 at 9:53:36 PM
Ranger was the top-of-line bike for the Mead cycle co of Chicago.Mead went out of buisness in 1953(I'm told)They were a mail order company much like Sears.Interesting part is they(mead) also had offices in England,"Mead of Liverpool".And I've seen english bikes newer than 1953 with the ranger name on them???---sam

   RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Phillips built Ranger 3 speed posted by jj on 5/7/2004 at 11:42:31 PM
I'm thinking that rear wheel is not original. But i bet it works well.

I'm not aware of any link between the old US Mead company and any English bikes.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Phillips built Ranger 3 speed posted by sam on 5/9/2004 at 5:02:22 PM
I base this connection between the American Mead Co. and England on the fact that a 1910 Mead of Liverpool dealers catalog sold on ebay a year or so ago--went for over $100 so sorry I have no more proof to back this up.But if you look at the Mead catalogs you will see a lot of English parts listed--fenders/pumps/chains etc.and they do state they are a "world wide"company.The 1910Mead of Liverpool catalog was in the same style and type as the american mead catalogs of 1910--even showing the same photo of a bike racer on cover---Inside adv. the Mead Coverty Eagle(I think Coverty Eagle is now Falcon)---sam

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Phillips built Ranger 3 speed posted by James on 5/10/2004 at 5:51:48 AM
On Sheldon Brown's website there is page on his Mead and a letter written by a bicycle historian, he wrote that Mead had an english subsidiary.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   BRIT BIKE SWAP IN PHILA MAY 16 2004 posted by: Michael Mcgettigan on 5/5/2004 at 2:33:07 PM
Greetings... just a reminder that the Great British Bike Weekend returns (9th time) to Philadelphia this May 14-15-16... with rides, rallies, a bike/pub visit, and of course, a Swap Meet on Sunday morning, May 16, starting about 8:30 am at 3131 Walnut St. just west of Center City Philadelphia... 2 blocks from 30th St. Station (use that exit of 676)....
Dealers should register, anyone selling a single bike or single box of parts is free
any questions, please call Trophy Bikes at 215.222.2020 or email mcget@aol.com

thanks for reading and riding..
McG







AGE / VALUE:†††Still in the blood posted by: Chris on 5/3/2004 at 11:46:31 PM
Hunting thru the Saline Ann Arbor meet last week I found a New, never used Dunlop 28 X 1 1/2 tire for 10.00
I clutched it like a prize! I then haggled and picked up 4 icky yellow gumwall tires in the same size and a buddy was right on my heals and here he wanted them!

I laughed and waited and them went over and traded them for a seat he had. He was surprised and happy!
The Dunlop tire? SHHHH, That's a keeper!







AGE / VALUE:††† posted by: James on 5/3/2004 at 5:30:01 AM
What was the largest step through Raleigh sports? was therea 23"?

Apparently Kronan decided to not sell me a big red bicycle so I'm thinking of making my own red raleigh grocery transporter, I have a 21" Robin Hood frame that would work but I like the feel of the bigger frame, I had a 23" women's Batavus and was quite happy with that.
I'm thinking red powder coated frame, matching fenders and chain cover, off the shelf wheels with SA or Shimano hub, red front and rear rack, red vinyl pannier bags from Holland, cork handle bar grips. If I had a bike like that I could dress up like an old dutch woman, ride on the sidewalk, bell ringing, brakes never applied carrots falling out of the bags...


   RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Having fun posted by Chris on 5/3/2004 at 11:37:45 PM
At last somebody else who dresses up like an old Dutch woman and goes out on the bike! The whole time everybody is thinking that you're just some old Dutch woman on an old bike and here you are really a fella in disguise.
I thought I was alone!
Yes! Riding that old ladies model Raleigh is just not as fun without a good costume!
I love to wear funky hats and pipes and cool coats when astride my mens frame bikes too, but the most fun is while on the ladies bikes I get to be more creative and utilize my vast collection of old lady attire!
The shoes, the make-up, the dresses, Oh what fun!
I'm kidding! I'm kidding!
No, I ain't that eccentric yet.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Having fun posted by Chris on 5/3/2004 at 11:45:19 PM
Actually, I brought home a old Ladies Raleigh from the last swap meet! Large step thru frame it's a 1940's model before they changed it. I have owned them before and then sold them and now another one this one with the drum brake hubs. It is too ratty and beat up and you should see it! a hodge podge of parts some Indian and some original. I should not have bought it. It's too messed up but I have an idea for some of the bits. The frame?

Leave your e- mail address here and I'll send you some pictures and perhaps you might want it to tinker with anyways. It looks like heck but it is sound to ride.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Having fun posted by James on 5/4/2004 at 5:40:18 AM
I don't think I'd want to give a 1940s bike the Kronan treatment, I was thinking of ugly 1970s Sports scratched metallic brown or gold, something in need of a new paint job, but then again one doesn't see to many large step through frames, I'm in Portland, OR.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:†††Hub Oil posted by: pete on 5/3/2004 at 1:07:01 AM
What amount and typeof oil goes in my 1970 Hercules 3 speed sturmey archer?
Also I remember my dads columbia sports III had leather laces tied around the axles. What was the purpose of doing this again?
Pete
Ps. I sent a picture to the database a few days ago, yet to be posted.. wait till you see this beauty! Ahhhh Chrome


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:†††Hub Oil posted by James on 5/3/2004 at 9:34:02 AM
This is going to be a long thread.

just use regular motor oil, 30wt or 10-40.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:†††Hub Oil posted by P.C. Kohler on 5/3/2004 at 9:17:42 PM
Rising to the bait...

Just use what God and Sturmey Archer intended to be used on Sturmey-Archer hub gears: Sturmey Archer oil. Easy to find on eBay (two tins available right now which will last a lifetime), still available in the UK as Raleigh Cycle Oil or Halfords Cycle Oil.

P.C. Kohler

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:†††Hub Oil posted by sam on 5/5/2004 at 4:50:26 AM
The leather was suppose to keep the hub shinned,ends up sanding off the chrome(may take manny years to do it)So be sure and use the proper oil in the hub.---sam

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:†††Hub Oil posted by Ken on 5/6/2004 at 6:53:46 PM
But, Peter, what KIND of oil is it? Surely, your identic (if not redundant) reference aside, it isn't blessed like holy water when they put the label on the can? And James, good call, we've done this thread before. But seriously, there will never be enough S-A oil on eBay to fill all the AW hubs that are still on the streets; what exactly is it? If it's not pure straight-weight oil, is it partly straight-weight oil? And in that case, what's the secret ingredient?
Meanwhile, I checked the third member of the pantheon, Sheldon Brown; he calls for "a moderately heavy oil, such as Phil Wood, or automotive motor oil." And the heretical Sturmey-Archer.com, which is in fact SunRace Taiwan, specifies light oil.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:†††Hub Oil posted by Ken on 5/6/2004 at 7:21:45 PM
But, Peter, what KIND of oil is it? Surely, your identic (if not redundant) reference aside, it isn't blessed like holy water when they put the label on the can? And James, good call, we've done this thread before. But seriously, there will never be enough S-A oil on eBay to fill all the AW hubs that are still on the streets; what exactly is it? If it's not pure straight-weight oil, is it partly straight-weight oil? And in that case, what's the secret ingredient?
Meanwhile, I checked the third member of the pantheon, Sheldon Brown; he calls for "a moderately heavy oil, such as Phil Wood, or automotive motor oil." And the heretical Sturmey-Archer.com, which is in fact SunRace Taiwan, specifies light oil.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:†††Hub Oil posted by James on 5/7/2004 at 6:12:33 AM
Someone needs to ask a SA engineer or find out what is used in new hubs. On the other site someone wrote that new hubs get a light grease that could be approximated with a mixture of motor oil and grease. If you've got an old bike you plan on overhauling and using it might not be a bad idea to open the hub up, clean all the parts and coat the internals with oil or a grease-oil mixture.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:†††Hub Oil posted by jj on 5/7/2004 at 11:44:52 PM
You who claim S-A is the correct oil, you've got to be kidding. You are showing a lack of confidence in the original S-A hub designers. Those hubs can use almost any petrolium based oil.






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:†††Raleigh Sport 3 spd need help posted by: pkorion on 5/1/2004 at 9:08:28 PM
i picked this up at a yard sale for 50 cents
it has a Brooks B72 seat its a little rusty but
rides realy well it also has a Schwinn self powerd
head light that works and a metal rack can some one
give me more info on this bike and maby what its worth


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:†††Raleigh Sport 3 spd need help posted by Larry "Bonemane" Bone on 5/2/2004 at 5:22:29 PM
50 cents! GOOD ON YA! That's the kind of deal we all look for. Anyhow, if you carefully peruse the rear hub, you will find a date code. i.e. two numbers like 9 75 which would indicate the hub (and probably the bike itself) was mfg'd september of 1975. Additionally, look for the "Made in England" transfer. Probably on the top-tube. If it's not there, possibly it was worn off... or... like one of my Roadsters, was. mfg'd elsewhere (mine was made in Holland).

As to worth? Well, it's worth considerably more than you paid for it that's for sure! Enjoy it. Fix it up, whatever. I've got a few of them here and enjoy them all.

Good luck! A goodly amount of info on your bike here and other places. For a great reference site visit:

http://www.retroraleighs.com

Later!

Larry "Boneman" Bone