| Hi all|
I've got a late 70's CCM (Shimano)3-speed beater bike with a busted thumb shifter. Anyone know if a sturmey thumb shifter will shift this hub properly?
|I doubt it very much, but your LBS probably has a Shimano one in a box somewhere.|
|I've seen it done. Works, sort of, but not a happy combination. Best to get the Shimano shifter.|
| Cleaning out some of my stuff and thought some here might be interested.|
| Anyone have info on this style of brake? To me it looks like it was built to work on a rod brake wheel. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=420&item=2248067731&rd=1|
| Actually they look like standard caliper brakes, with a twist of course...Its not quite clear what the springs are exactly for, but they could be to keep the shoes off the rim when not braking, or to increase the braking power like these modern day XTR V-Brakes http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product.aspx?i=BR708A05|
But, in this case it looks like the springs are designed to keep the shoes OFF the rim when not in use. Anybody else have any ideas?
| I'm in the process of restoring a Raleigh Sports and I'm wondering if there's any source for the rear fender decals? It's probably a long shot (though I did see a post here about chain guard decals). As an alternative would it be possible to create one using an image file an printing on some sort of special decal paper? Any ideas??|
| There is an extensive thread ongoing about that on the rollbrittania yahoo newsgroup. Pretty interesting thus far:|
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| This is an easy one: Lloyds Cycles sells them.. check the Links section of Roll Britannia for the url. They have the pre 1950 style and the later one as well.|
| A little hot for this poorboy--but great photos!!|
Nice to see a 1952(?) Phillips new---sam
| WOW. Now THAT'S a find!|
Yeah... a bit pricey for my fiscally challenged budget...
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| Hope everybody is doing fine,|
It's been awhile since my last post here since I've been busy with lwts. However, I ran into a late-60's Raleigh (Model 5-speed)and was intrigued.
Do the SA 5-sp hubs work ok or are they problematic?
How would you describe the ratios relative to an AW 3-sp? Do the 2 additional gears fall between 1 and 3 or do they widen the overall 3-sp gear range?
I figure SA 5-sp hubs are fairly rare as this is the first one I've seen but about how much are the hubs alone (or with built wheel) worth?
Thanks for your responses,
Jack fr Sacramento
| Check with the man...|
Can't tell you anything about value.
| 5th gear 50% increase|
4th gear 26.6% increase
this is so alltogether sharp; okay, not the classic, but a dynohub, locking fork, found a superbe just like that, woman's , but overall, cherry shape
|My mother found a Raleigh Superbe in the dump. Enchanted by the springs on the seat, I asked if I could have it. Now I wonder what I should do to make it road worthy. The brakes work well, but the shifting mechanism baffles me. I see no sized sprockets (or whatever they're called) on the back. It appears to be a single-gear bike, except that it has a shifting mechanism that shows three gears. Is this the "dyno-hub" I've read about? What do I do to make it work again?|
a couple of my bikes for sale.
|sharp, is that a dynohub, or what is that, Lucas Carbide Lamp, whatever, fine velocipede|
Where do you find these bikes, and what's more--why do you sell 'em?
| Well, I have limited space in-order for me to continue to purchase I must sell, that's a good thing for the people who want very clean and rare english bicycles.|
thanks for looking
| that is not a dyno hub, the bike is much to old for that option, that is the drum brake.|
| Nice stuff. Top shelf fer sure.|
Ya notice though.... he never did say where he finds them.
I wouldn't. ;-)
Larry "Boneman" Bone
|If anyone knows anything about a 14 speed Raleigh Technium Grand Prix with RX100 shimano components 700x20c tires and aluminum tubing ,thermal welded ? Please advise on the pros and cons. Thanks for your time and advise. Steve|
|You might do better posting that under the Vintage Lightweight topic|
| No, no, not like taking it out for a burger and a beer....|
Does anyone have information on how to decode the date stamp on a Brooks?
I know (from other saddles that I have access to) that from the mid to late 60s on to about 1990 they stamped the date on the frame.
I have an earlier saddle that has a date code stamped in ink on the underside of the flap of the saddle.
This is a B.15 and the date code looks something like this:
I don't know if the J is for January and the other letters are a code for the year, or if the J has nothing to do with the date code.
This saddle came to me on a bike that I rather convincingly dated to 1964, but I have no idea as to whether or not it was original to the bike.
Interestingly, I can find no date code at all on my rather new Pro. I have two B.17s that are less than 15 years old and they both had a date code prominently embossed on the underside of the saddle near the frame.
Any help would be appreciated.
| That date code didn't post right. The J is off to the left of the VAX by a space or two. The VAX are lined up vertically.|
| This from the Vintage Trek site...|
Brooks Saddles - Prior to sometime in the 1960s the inside of leather side flaps were stamped with a date code. The stamp denoted the month and year of manufacture. Mrs. O'Donnell* writes: "Unfortunately, the "code" book is now lost so we cannot decipher the actual codes used at that time. It is, sadly, not quite as simple as A=January, B=February etc. This 'flap' stamping changed to the frame stamping around the 1960's although there was an 'overlap' period where both the leather and the frame were stamped."
The metal frames of the saddles were stamped with the date of manufacture from sometime in the 1960s to about 1988.
The current method of stamping Brooks saddles is a colored stamp on the underside of the saddle, with a number for the year surrounding a letter for the month.
(*The above Brooks information was provided in an e-mail from Mrs. E. O'Donnell in the Sales Department of Sturmey-Archer, when that company owned Brooks. Mrs. O'Donnell was writing to Robert Williams in response to his query about date codes. Our thanks to these two individuals and to Larry Osborn, who secured a copy of the original e-mail.)
| OK, whoever took the code book, please put it back. No questions asked...|
| And Mike, thanks for the info.|
|I recently got a Hercules Sports for 10 dollars, but I am wondering about the date. I initially thought it was a 1972 (the hub has a number 2 on it where the date should be) but it appears older. For example, the brake calipers are pre 1960 models, the rims are Dunlop brand endrick type. The wheel spoke count is 32-40, and the front hub has an oil filler port. The chain guard is hockey stick but old style gold cursive letters that say "Hercules". The AMF portion is not the 70s style straight line block font, but rather 3 small white letters in a triangular arrangement. My suspicion is that it's a '62 but it does not have the Hercules triangular chain guard. Anyone have a similar bike?|
|Is the shifter all metal, or is there a clear plastic cover on it? Plastic was used in the late 60s. Where do the rear fender stays attach to the bike? Behind the rear axel or above it? Behind the axel would be a Raleigh made bike after 1960, above the axel would be a Phillips made bike before 1960. Does the head badge say Nottingham (Raleigh), or Birmingham (Phillips)?|
|found old english bike,is there any thing to these bikes? any info,or sites on hercules bikes??|
|If it's in decent condition, it's probably a great bike. Surf over to http://www.sheldonbrown.com/english-3.html and read it. It contains a wealth of info.|
| I'm almost done refurbishing a late-50's Hercules Tourist. This one has the Hercules 3-sp hub but is unfortunately too small for me so she'll have to go. Nice bikes and classic english 3spds from what I've seen. Another good site is http://threespeedbicycles.angelcities.com/. |
|Brian T: Dust has finally settled, and I've finally got a minute to send you something. Only problem is Sasser wiped my and my computer out. Could you e-mail me your snail-mail address?|
|Anyone else have trouble fitting front baskets on their Raleigh Sports with cable brakes? Seems like rod brakes wouldn't get in the way as much.|
Try routing the brake cables *behind" the handlebars after they exit the levers. This has worked well for me on two Suburbans using Wald baskets. You can avoid interference with the SA shifter trigger by rotating it under the handlebar which was at one time a standard placement. The big problem will be using baskets with small-framed bicycles. The smaller frames have short head tubes which will force some baskets to interfere with the front fender. You can compensate for this to some extent by getting a good purchase on the clamps that go around the handlebars and rotating them to a horizontal position. These need to be tightened quite securely as heavy loads and speed strips on the road will eventually drive them back into the fender.
I highly recommend the Wald folding pannier baskets. These put the load in a better place and fold conveniently out of the way when not needed. If you are fortunate enough to have one of those Prestube racks that Raleigh supplied, you would have a sufficiently rigid mounting system. Forget about using most racks with folding stays.
|See if you can find one of those Italian or Swiss (common in both places) baskets that hook onto a rear Pletscher rack and are held on by the spring clip. You can carry them into the grocery store and use them as a shopping basket and then just hook them back on for the ride home. The best!|
|Actually, I was thinking more along the lines of a wicker basket, to look like the old style bikes. Is there a reason why rod-brake bikes are often seen with front wicker baskets, but cable brake bikes are not? Seems like the cables won't work correctly if they are compressed by the basket.|
| Afternoon folks,|
I happened to pick up a couple of these Raleigh peel-and-stick decals from a local bike shop here in town. I've never seen these, and they appear to be original Raleigh parts. They match exactly in size with the Raleigh script used on the hockey-stick chainguards.
The back of the stickers are marked:
PN 2384800 11472 5 76
I assume that it means the item's part number is #2384800, and the batch was made sometime around May 1976, although I could be wrong.
Has anyone seen these before, and do they have any value?
|I was always wondering if HTML code would work in these discussions...guess not. BTW....if you were to properly use HTML...you need to put in the tags! Buy why can't we stick in a picture right in the discussion areas anyways?? Lots of other sites can! And we are all always wanting a picture of a bike or some part!|
| Most likely, it's because of the board's multi-topic setup. If everyone were to post photos, this page wouldn't load very fast! I do prefer the newer style forums such as ProBoards (http://www.proboards.com/) though. Many more options. I would create one myself, but I don't want to take away from OldRoads traffic.|