|Took the kustom DL-1 out for a shake down ride,about 2 or3 miles yesterday.I love thos 28" tyres they just roll so nice.With the original sizs tyre mounted to 28" alum rims the big hoops really glide smooth.Much better than steel rims.The V-brakes make stopping the big maching simple--two fingers on the calipers is all that's needed.The modified derailer worked effortlessly.No rattles on the mudgards.Then the saddle gave out! Well that's what a shake down is for---spent all day on that fix. Now it's raining.---sam|
|Sounds like a nice ride! You should put some DISK brakes on it! they stop amazing! And just imagine the look of them with the fenders and all:P|
|Your right Disk brakes are the Hottest new style for kustom bikes.They really look sharp too.A sport rod/Club bike would be hot.Keep the lines clean and simple.|
| Hey All,|
I need two small parts for my kustom '63 Schwinn Speedster:
I need the adjusting barrel and lock nut for the Sturmey Archer TCW-III. These are the same for all Sturmey three speeds I assume...?
Does anyone have these to spare?
| Got one on it's way.|
Thanks all who responded,
| Hello, my daughter picked up an older ladies cycle but there is no emblems or stickers left on the frame. It is step through single speed, has made in England stamped on the frame, the support bar is curved. It has rod brake style. There is a serial # 34230H stamped on the down tube. I live in Canada in Vancouver and was the popular bicycle in my era as a kid (1960's). I looked up the Raleigh serial number system and this doesn't seem to fit the ranges. Any help would be appreciated.|
| Need some more clues. The rear drop-outs, are the eyelets for fender braces in line with the slot for the axle? If so then it's probably a Raleigh or a re-badged Raleigh like an Eaton's Glider. The crank, is it a one-piece or the three piece kind with cottered cranks? Raleigh always had the three piece kind, whereas CCM almost always had the one piece kind. Count the spokes on the wheels, 32 on the front and 40 in the back? Then it's pre 1962. But if there's 36 spokes front and rear? then it's 1962-ish and later. Rims, CCM used to paint theirs up unto the 50's, Raleigh always had theirs chromed. Rod brakes are not very North American, is there a coaster brake on the rear? What kind of seat? Chainguard still intact? Are there brazed-on mounts for it? If so then 1960's and older if it is English, or pre-war (WW2) for North American. Regular-type chain? Wouldn't happen to have "Reynolds" stamped on each link?|
Vancouver is a pretty neat melting pot for bikes, I've found 1930's Sturmey-Archer drum brakes, Dutch elasticized skirt screens to go on rear fenders, and German "Torpedo drei-gang" gear hubs all within a 2 km radius. It's very addicting....
|Hi Edward! Back on old roads huh? I've been busy listing my home & planning a move. Hope your new food operation is settling in. Any more "twist-off" knob type employee gaffs to relate from the past year? I'm still riding my '56 Rudge when I get a chance.|
| Hi Edward,|
The front wheel is not original, but the rear is and it has the curve buily in the rim, very small bead at the side. There is a removable support from the seat post to the rear eyelets. Its a three piece crank, im sure its not a CCM, for it has mad in England stamped on the bottom on the frame.I stripped the paint to bare metal and the frame has been hand brazed. In the crank mount there is a lubricating brass nipple and on the rear brake it is stamped Perry. The rear hub has a lubricating lid, spring loaded.
The bicycle is mostly intact, but it is missing a chrome rear fender and the front rim is not original. Do oyu know anyone in the Vancouver area that has parts available?
|I have a 62 or later Eaton Truline Glider, with chainguard still intact. Seat and repair kit looks original. I am in Vancouver and was wondering where I could go to inquire about the value of the bike. Or if you could help out that would be great. Please email me back at Wak8nsnogirl@aol.com, thanks, Kat|
| I also have an Eaton Truline Glider Ladies bicycle and would like to know the value. It is made in England has all the original logos on it the white gliding bird, it has 28 spokes in each wheel serial #2108017 with back pedal brakes. crome front and back fenders. just checking value before I give it to a free town bike program and it gets painted yellow.|
|Can anyone help me date a hercules bicycle or provide any information on it. I intend to restore this bicycle but have no information at all on it. It is a Hercules ladies bicycle and has a Safety Model decal on one of the Tubes, it is black with with 3 speed hub and rod brakes. The hub has the hercules name stamped on it but I can't find any date codes. The serial number located under the seat is KP3493. I would be grateful for any information anyone can give me on this model particularly if anyone can give me an approximate age.|
| Parting with an old friend is hard but not if you know the new owner will cherish it, so here goes. My pre-WW2 Post office cycle is for sale. It needs a repaint but I have a small tin of genuine GPO red paint. It is a sound cycle which I still ride and enjoy, often doing the recycling run (glass and paper) on it. It runs on rebuilt rims with 26" X 1.5" tyres, the front one is near new. The saddle is a Brooks B66. The bottom bracket is cottered, that is it is retained in the frame by two cotter pins mounted through the frame, this helps date the cycle pre-1945. The GPO cycle design did not change between 1929 and 1989 but this is an early one, not a nasty Townsend from the '80s, but precise maker unknown. The carrier on the front is complete and straight, as are the mudguards. There are genuine GPO spanners and spares with this cycle, handlebars grips and a few other bits. Here's the rub, I won't arrange shipping BUT if you are okay with sorting that out then I'll do my best to pack the old chap up tidily and safely for your courier to collect. (Its heavy and rather long)So now the nitty gritty, how much? I would like to recieve offers over £50 sterling with the buyer solely responsible for shipping from the UK and the cost thereof. Yes I have pictures which I will send to genuinely interested parties not just click and viewers.|
Let me know if you are interested Matthew - eBay schmeebay!
| When I was a young lad I use to climb a small hill and set on a park bench to watch the stars come out.I could see the street lights of seven towns as they came on from that hill.It was a small hill,I live in Texas.But even from a small hill in Texas you feel like you can touch the heavens when the stars come out in the evening.|
A job,A wife,Two kids--I moved on.Never to go back.But I have other hills to climb,other stars to touch.
Chris,you have years of knowlage to share--a new direction to travel.The street lights of the Continets light up on the web,and in New Zeland a star is twinkling(asking for info on a sidecar) in Scotland a sun tandem is for sale,in england a Russ is waiting to be painted. ,Chris,come set on this beanch with your friends(P.C.--Warren--Larry--and me,) reach out and touch those stars.
|Oh for the power to make it easy for all in the global village to meet up and share a common pleasure in the simple things like the click of a S.A. hub! For you to come to my place and me to come to yours without the nuisance of aeroplanes and terrorists and borders and _ _ _|
| The stars are still there, are you still looking? On a clear night when the clouds go to play over some distant land you can stand there, or better still lie back and watch the miriad diamonds shining for all they are worth. Then marvel at the galaxies held above you. When the moon peers his full creamy face over the hedges and ditches hop onto your supreme (DL1) and roll gently along deserted lanes. Switch off the dynamo and hear the swish of tyre on tarmac. Let the chill nihjt air smooth your wrinkles as you accustom your eyes to the encompassing darkness and see that the full moon brings not eerie shadow but cool bathing light to this planet. Watch hares course across fields away from you and listen to tawny owls screeching at one another as they hunt. Take time to take time from the hustle and bustle we call life and enjoy your bicycle.|
Matthew - reflecting on rides I have enjoyed in and around Norfolk UK.
|I'm helping a friend with the restoration of a war-time Triumph bicycle. So far, everything on the bike appears to be original. My first problem is with the original grips. They're marked Exonite by Dover Ltd. They have a hard rubber shell and thick cardboard core. The cardboard hasn't fared very well over the years. Is there any way to replace this part of the grips, or maybe some place that has replacement Dover grips? My second issue is with the decals. It has a Triumph Coventry headbadge decal, and the word TRIUMPH in capital letters down the seat tube. Any ideas on where I can find replacements for these? For those interested in more details about the bike, it was purchased in early 1945. My friend has the original receipt and the owner's military pass to bring it back to the states. It has a single speed coaster rear hub finished in chrome and a black front hub, both with grease ports covered by spring clips. The tires are Dunlop and marked war-grade. The saddle appears to be painted canvas. Anyways, if someone could please provide some guidance with the grips and decals, it would be very much appreciated. Thanks!|
| I got just the place for you. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/warbikes/|
|Hi, can anybody point me towards a website or anywhere else that has pictures of sidecars? A friend has just found a New Hudson tandem with a sidecar chassis but no body and wants me to tackle restoring it for him. The sidecar has a 14 x 2 x 1&3/4 wheel and tyre and the bike has 26 x 1& 3/8. I do not have it here yet but he would like me to try and date it too so anything that lists serial numbers or info on New Hudson would help (it does not have a S.A.hub). Frame number is 6047G on the R.H. dropout. Cheers, Ian.|
| Does anyone here know when Dunlop produced alloy rims in a 26 x 1 3/8" size? I just picked up some off e-bay UK. Prior to this, I never knew that Dunlop ever produced alloy rims at all.|
| my '81 Raleigh Tourist has sustained a front wheel mishap.|
I need to replace it, I mean NEED.... It's indispensible to me, I can't walk well, but can ride fine. I live on this cycle and am literally crippled without it. E-mail me if you know where I can get a 28x1 1/2 rim, or wheel, front or rear, I'm desperate. Thanks fellow fans!
| The folks at Yellowjersey have 'em. They may even be available through VVVintage. Here's the link for the former:|
Sorry to hear of the "incident". Hopefully there were no serious injuries pursuant thereof.
Larry "Boneman" Bone
|Thank you boneman! Exactly what I needed.|
| No problem, sir. Glad I was of assistance. Best wishes for a speedy "recovery" ;-)|
Larry "Boneman" Bone
|http://tinyurl.com/3ygkv ..have patience, the images will load my child! The Rudge, Riv, and Ritchey are mine & the other goodies are stuff I really like - you too?|
| i've been commuting on a '78 dl-1 tourist for a month or so. it's a great ride, but i have been spending a good deal of time adjusting the rod braking system to make sure it's operating as well as possible.|
yesterday, i noticed an older post on a message board and some service manual illustrations that showed that the anti-vibration plates on my front stirrup had been reversed so that the shoes were in front of the stirrup and way out in front of the fork, instead of behind the stirrup. the clamps/guides that hold the bottom end of the stirrups had been turned out so that the brakes still (sort of) hit the right place on the rim.
anyway, i took them apart, cleaned them up, and put them back together as indicated in the manual. got about 30 feet from my front door and pulled the front brake rod with a normal amount of force...the whole bike shook violently. i'm not talking a little vibration. i could have mixed paint by strapping it on to the handlebars. it's a little hard to gauge what's going on, because it really doesn't do that without someone on the bike, moving at a reasonable speed.
i'm hoping someone out there more practiced in rod brake maintenance will have some insight into what might have gone wrong. any input would be welcome.
a few other details:
i did generally follow the service manual instructions for adjusting the brakes, and, as other posters have mentioned, completed the last shoe tightening with the brake engaged.
the shoes are making contact with the rim with the outside of the shoe 0-2mm inside the rim. i say 0-2 because the wheel isn't perfectly true. the folks at my local bike shop felt that older steel rims such as these are seldom if ever perfectly true, so i'm hoping this isn't the problem. it certainly didn't act this way with the plates aligned forward, but it could just be a physics thing i'm not getting.
| Two possible causes for this vibration:|
1) your brake shoes are worn in the "wrong" spots because they were put on incorrectly. Remember, unlike caliper side-pull brakes which act on the flat side of a rim, rod-brake pads work on the round, inside of the rim. If the rim is even slightly out of round (see below), the shoes will wear unevenly. It won't take long for them to wear to conform to the new position.
2) your rim is damaged and out of round. This happened to my DL-1; hit a really bad pothole (in DC, that's a given!) and never really corrected until I replaced the rim. There's no ready was I know of to fix a "flat" on a rim.
3) your rim is out of true; that's easy to fix. Any bike shop can do that for you.
Just remember rod brakes "interact" with a rim differently than a caliper brake. They are more reliable than cable brakes but I find they are very hard on shoes etc. And finding the right brake shoes for rod brakes is VERY difficult. Too many places (including this site) sell PHILLIPS pattern brake shoes, the big ones, which just do not fit DL-1s at all. They hit the spoke nipples because they are wider than the Raleigh ones. Phillips pattern rod brakes are different from Raleigh. Most of the Indian manufacturers sell RALEIGH pattern shoes as well as Phillips. But the folks buying them need to get the right ones. Fibrax in the UK still sell proper Raleigh shoes too.
|How are rod brakes "more reliable" than cable brakes? My DL-1 has rod brakes and good brake blocks, but they don't provide half the stopping power of the cable brakes on my old Raleigh Sports. I would never ride a bike with rod brakes in heavy traffic but I wouldn't hesitate to ride the Sports.|
| Hi,Kevin,perhaps P.C. means "more reliable" as in "more durable,e.g. no cables snapping?" rather than "more effective"? |
Yeah,I still remember my Gazelle;I had to brake in advance,if any emergencies arose,I had to plough down my feet on the road!!!
Well,just a small thought from I. All the best and GOD BLESS!!! :) :) :)
| Well I used the word "reliable" and that covers all bases I guess, at least from my experience riding a DL-1 as my only bike from 1977 to 2002. That included regular riding to work in Washington, DC for about five years total. I guess we have traffic in this city. I am sure of it. But I never felt I was endangered by rod-brakes. Ever.|
The main disadvantage of a DL-1 in modern city traffic is that they are very leisurely steerers and are high off the ground. Even with a 34" inseam, that's still a lot of machine to straddle. Hence my regular city bike now is a 1949 Rudge Super Safety which, true to the name has... rod brakes. This is the Rudge variant of that other great classic in roadsterdom, the Raleigh "Dawn" which introduced the low bottom bracket and more handy frame angles back in the 1920s. I also ride a '51 Rudge De Luxe Sports with cable brakes. I don't find any great difference in braking between either.
| thanks for the information. here's what i've done since your post: |
1. installed new fibrax shoes (which were already on order) which had no effect on the shaking of the handlebars. do you find that the angle of the bolt on the side of these shoes is much closer to 90 degrees than the raleigh shoes? i'm sure wear will even out the differences, but i had to turn the clamps around the forks a good deal to get these on the rims.
2. went down to lbs and had the wheels trued. they made the usual disclaimer about steel rims, and put forth an earnest effort to true the wheels anyway. didn't notice any flats or damage, and brought the wheels to as true a state as they felt was possible. that said, it turns out they did so not in a wheel true stand, but instead left them on the bike. on visual inspection they looked much better, but the handlebars still shook like mad when i pulled the front brake.
3. put the anti-vibration plates on backwards again, with the new shoes. still shaking.
now, i've had odd noises and things when changing shoes before. i rotated the shoes after a previous adjustment and found that the rear shoes made horrible noises and a normal amount of vibration for a few days and then settled down. what's happening in the front seems pretty different - the handlebars and forks seem to be shaking back and forth in concert with some noises that don't seem to be coming from the brake shoes. it's pretty violent & i'm concerned i may be damaging things in the head tube.
i'm pretty determined to get this resolved. i know there are a lot of variables involved, including shoe position, a.v. plate orientation, rim straightness, and shoe wear. my perception is, the better the contact between shoe and rim (also good for stopping power) the more the shaking, which was one of the incidental corrections to the original a.v. plate issue.
anyway, i'm trying to figure out the next step here. i could
a) take the bike to a different shop and have the wheels trued again in a wheel gauge
b) try brand new rims in the hopes they may be more true than the ones i've got
c) keep riding on the new shoes in the hopes that i'm not damaging the head tube bearnings and that they'll even out with wear
d) something else? (possibly there's some other wear/damage elsewhere that could be causing this)
what i'm hoping to get from this bulletin board is the one thing i don't seem to be able to find in any of the bike shops i've been to; experience with dl-1 or rod brake maintenance and repair. i've been to several, and they all seem to regard the bike as a novelty and that the remedy to any performance/mechanical problems is 'upgrading' to a new bike.
BEFORE MESSING WITH ANY BRAKE SHOES OR RIMS ANY FURTHER, TRY CHECKING ONE THING FIRST: YOUR REAR SEAT STAYS. ARE THEY BOLTED ON CORRECTLY?
I had a disastrous experience once with my DL-1, when I left off the rear, bolt-on seat stays accidentally. The whole bike was shaking. I mean, vibrations up in the head tube and seat tube. I couldn't figure out where they were coming from until I got back, when I discovered I had forgotten to bolt on the rear seat stays where they connect to the chainstays. Fortunately, I hadn't gone far enough to do any damage, but that experience sure gave me a scare.
So, check that your seat stays are bolted on tight; otherwise, you might be getting vibrations from instability in your frame.
thanks for the tip. i haven't touched the bolts on the seat or chain stays so far, and they appear to be very secure. i almost wish they hadn't been - it would have been a pretty easy fix. :)
| Have your cycle shop check that the headset is not loose...|
|Your headset could also be loose...check to see if there is any slack in it....my bike shook like that too and that was the problem!|
| Hats off to those of you that still find the cool old bikes at garage sales, in the rubbish, at the flea market, or wherever. For me, it's not to be found anymore.|
The spell is broken and it's not a nice feeling. My old bike mentor pal claims to be out of the game and not even looking for the old bikes.
Yes, there is e- bay but I miss the old days.
Cleaning and remodeling and so sick of everybody eyeing the thinned out collection and asking about my bikes.
As I watched the fellow haul away 6 truckloads it was stunning to realize how deep I was into this stuff.
You should have this cleaned out and sell all this junk I was told. My eyes twitched and I told him "You obviously have no understanding of collecting or enjoying what you collect!
You must lead a boring and sorry existance! How can you explain the love of vintage bikes to "normal" people anyways.
I did sell off quite a bit but oh so selectively kept the best of the it all.
My garage it's so clean and organized it's almost scarry.
|Great subject Chris and I share your passion for vintage bikes. I too have a personal overabundance but I bought each for a reason and that reason pops up everytime I think of culling the herd. As far as getting harder to find, my sources are still good here in NCAL. But since I'm more selective now I'm not accumalating at the same rate. The main problem with too many bikes is maintenance and restoration eat into riding time and that is their real purpose.|
|Yep, can identify with that, moved house (and garage as well) in May. Gave away a Dawes frame made for 18" wheels to a BMX guy, a whole mess of wheels and rims to a scrap metal guy, a '50's FW hub and trigger to a friend, and two restaurant-style bus-tubs of small parts, cables, and nuts'n bolts in the dumpster. I felt, well, naked, but relieved as well. Had some good times messing around in that garage, making springs for 4 spd triggers infront of the house too, but I digress.... Anyway, time to move on|
| I know this is a bit of a longshot, but thought I would post anyhow.|
Recently, a lady friend of mine in Binghamton, NY, had her mid to late 70's Raleigh Sports stolen off her porch. It is the rarer silver colour with the "Tombstone" rear reflector. Put in very excellent working and cosmetic order by yours truly.
If anyone that frequents this message board happens to see it, let me know.
Larry "Boneman" Bone
|YOU GOT IT!!!!|
| Sorry to be a little off topic, but I thought someone may have some experience with this.|
I have a tandem with a Torpedo built 3spd hub. While getting packed up, too much pressure was put on the indicator chain, and the threaded end of the rod snapped off, inside the hub. Is there any possible way to fix this? I am at a total loss.
|If the Torpedo hub is essentially a sturmey-archer design like most 3spds, the internals are relatively simple even for first timers. And if you have a set of cone wrenches used for rebuilding hubs then they and perhaps a bench vise are all the tools you will need. If you don't feel up to the partial disassembly required to get the broken stub out, a bike mechanic can do it. Sheldon Brown has a good tech website "care and feeding of 3-speeds"?. Job shouldn't take much more than an hour for first timer and half that for experienced.|
| Thank you guys for the info! I was expecting that the axel was more solid. I am going to go for it. Wish me luck!|