| I have recently acquired a Raleigh Colt from a yard sale (cute little bike with matching color rear rack). Thought it was rideable, but after a mile of tooling around town discovered it needed quite a bit of work. Being mostly ignorant about the restoration and repair of bicycles, but somewhat mechanically inclined I've decided it would be a fun project to fix it up myself.|
Had trouble shifting. I'm thinking I need a new shifter and /or shifter cable. Is there a good reference on how to replace these?
I couldn't raise the handlebars. After loosening the bolts, I tried lubing it up with some WD-40, but the bars wouldn't raise. Being of diminutive stature and size, thought it was due to my lack of muscle power and had my boyfriend try to raise them, but they wouldn't budge. What are we doing wrong?
Thanks! This is a great site!
|check out sheldownbrown.com on the proper way to adjust the shifter before you go out and try to find a new one. As for the bars, after you loosen the bolt a few turns you have to hit it with a hammer. Some people suggest a rubber mallet but for bikes that have sat for 20 years I don't think it provides enough force. Just protect the bolt head with something before you hit it with the hammer. This is done to loosen the wedge inside the steering tube that holds the stem in place. there's a website that is very good for repair directions. bikewebsite.com or something similar to that. try to google bike repair and it should come up.|
|I am looking for a 3 speed Sturmey Archer coaster brake hub. I found one for sale but it has 2 sprockets. IM confused. Why does it have 2 sprockets. One of the srockets is right up to where you would put the spokes and then there is a space about 1/2 inch between that sprocket and the other. If a sprocket could be screwed off or something it would be nice, I really need this hub and i really wanted a coaster because its easier than hand brakes. If you have any info please reply. Thanks|
| I don't have any info about the dual sprocket set up, but if your arrangement falls through, I have 2 3sp coasters, a SC3 and a TCWII both availible very reasonably. You can email me above if interested.|
| That sounds like the type of sproket for a Cyclo Benelux set up where a Deurailier was used to double the range of gears. They are rare in the UK so even rarer in the US. I should hang on to it if I were you.|
|This set up(2 gears on a coaster) was used for Path or racing bikes,as a quick change gear.The coaster would not have worked with the derailer.The bikes/racer would simply move the chain by hand and re-ajust the hub in the rear dropouts---sam|
| Do the 2 sprockets move together or does one move in unison with the hub?|
I am looking for the later. I believe this would be one used to convert a single speed trike to a 3 speed one. Look for "Desoto tricycle" on ebay. It not a S/A but the same set-up.
|beware of this ebayer, does not purchase vintage bike, likes piano, think we know who this is; is bad news.|
|Beware of annomyous posters set out to defame someone. If your going to talk smack about someone "guest" then at least have the cajones to leave your name and email address.|
| Dear Guest,|
Thank you for the "heads up". I can certainly see that this Manicore fellow has you worked up. I assume that your inability to form complete sentences is temporary and can be ascribed to the exasperation you currently feel. In fact, I was expecting that the ebay feedback you would have left for Manicore would be both scathing and eloquent. Curiously, the ebay file on Manicore showed zero feedback with no particpation in any current or recent auctions. We eagerly look forward to your clarifications on this matter.
BTW: My first wife also liked piano; you may be onto something there.
|Hi, having changed my allegiance from bicycles to collecting powered two wheelers I have decided to sell off an assortment of bits and pieces collected over the years. There are Carbide Lamps, Oil Lamps, Battery Lamps and Dynamo Lamps (including a Bluemels Lightweight Headlight which Sam Tells me P.C. will offer thousands for). A Thapex pump, Speedwell plastic guards, tyre repair tins,pinback badges, a couple of dynohubs ETC ETC. If anybody wants a look at the list before I start putting things on eBay send me an email through the link above. Cheers, Ian.|
|P.C. has been asking for a light weight lite for a club bike.With common bluemels gards going for $50 on ebay,here's a change to get a Bluemel light---my bid is in--so are ya'll going to let me low bid this great light!(Ian a good friend that has always treated me right)---Ya'll take advantage of this great oportunity,you won't be sorry---sam|
| I recently acquired a Phillips men's 3 speed. It has a |
S.A. "AW" hub, with NO date stamped on it. The serial
number from the frame lug under the seat post is 1392601.
Anyone know what year this represents, or a line on where
I might find this info?
|Hi all. Just came back from the local flea market where I saw a Huffy Sportsman. It had made in England on the downtube and had a 1961 SA TCW 3 speed hub. I was thinking of picking it up because I've not found anything worth working on in a while. I checked the archives and found that it is a Raleigh made Huffy. Checked Sheldon Brown, and he said the TCW hub was unreliable. Not sure I want to mess with it if the hub is/will go bad. Anyone have any trouble with these hubs? Is the bike worth picking up?|
| I have one of these (from a Huffy Sportsman)and had minimal problems with the unit until I took it in to my LBS for an overhaul.|
For 25.00 they overhauled the hub and trued the wheel.
I bolted it back on my 63 Schwinn, and now the damn thing locks up the wheel!
Jeez, I was trying to save myself some time as I've got many summer projects going on, and now I realize that I should have just done it myself!!!
Now I'm just bolting on a wheel with an early bendix single speed coaster and calling it good for the moment!
I don't know if these are problematic or not but I won't be having that shop do anymore work for me...
|Hello, I have just purchased a Royal Enfield bicycle, but I am having a great amount of difficulty in getting information. When ever I search on the net , I keep getting links to The Royal enfield motorcycles. Does anyone out there know of a place where I can find more information about this type of bike. I believe it to be a 50's bike , but I would like to know for sure. Right now, she is pretty much original right down to the tires, but it is missing the tire pump, does anyone know where to find one???. I am a novice and need help!!!.|
| Royal Enfield, eh? Sounds like a good find! Ifya poke around on the site here, they do offer frame pumps for sale. IF the bike is a 3-speed with Sturmey-Archer rear hub, there will probably be a date code stamped on it. You have to look closely in some cases... particularly if there's a lot of oil / greas on the hub. Clean it off as best you can and have a gander! Should be two numbers... like 6 63 which would be indicative of having been manufactured in June of 1963.|
Good luck with the "new" ride... and yeah... there's a lot of info about the motorcycles... they have recently begun re-importing them... from INDIA where they've been manufactured for quite some time now.
Larry "Boneman" Bone
|Thank you for your reply. Unfortunately the bike is not a 3 speed. Just the regular plain jane ladies, enfield Ensign model. All I have to go with is a 6 digit serial number stamped on the frame , just under the seat. But I do not know where to find a list to check out the number. Any recommendations???|
| You will have considerable difficulty in tracking down frame numbers to years. The only place I know of is the Veteran Cycle Club in the UK. I have a couple of pre WWII Royal Enfields and the only way I dated them was from old adverts in cycle magazines and that will only give you an approximate date. There were no dates on the hubs (all K type). Good Luck.|
|One does not see many Enfields around. A few years ago I found a late 60s Royal Enfield 'Firefly' 10 speed, nice lugs, deep orange paint. 1930s Enfield rod brake roadsters are something to behold. Also, it's the same company that madw the motorcycle.|
|Today I purchased an Austrian Puch Waffenrad for $30. It is a classic looking black 1spd w/coaster, frt rod brake, 28" painted wheels and plastic fully-inclosed chain guard. Anybody have one of these and know when they were made? My guess is 70's.|
|You gotta love the name: "Waffenrad" = weapon bike|
|Can anyone give me an approximate date when Hercules changed over from Hercules to Sturmey Archer 3 speed hubs|
|Can anyone give me an approximate date when Hercules changed over from Hercules to Sturmey Archer 3 speed hubs|
|I have an sw hub from '58 labelled Hercules cycle and motor co., so at least till then. mike|
|My Herc Tourist is a late-50's from what I can tell and it sports a Herc 3sp hub.|
|I'm not super educated on this, but given the the Hercules manufacter hub from '58 it is likely the change came after Raleigh bought the name and started manufacturing Hercules in 1960.|
| at a local thrift store I spotted a Philips bicycle with a|
cantilever type frame, 20" wheels, Weiman hand brakes, a three sprocket freewheel, and a tiny little derailler. It also had a large shimano stem shifter (probably not orig) and little alloy cage pedals. Headbadge said nottingham, curious little bike-any info?
| Hmmm... sounds like the olde "Simplex" 3-speed derailleur system. Yeah, I would bet the shifter is not original.|
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| NICE OLD RALEIGH (BEREC) HANDLE BAR LAMP ON E-BAY|
LISTED AT ONLY 99CENTS ITEM# 2252874831, LOOKS IN GOOD SHAPE.
|This was a great buy at$6.56 in my opinion. I paid almost twice that for mine serveral years ago.This is the first time I've seen the handlebar mount.Mine attaches to the heron bracket and may be a little larger than the one on Ebay it requires two D batteries,puts out a very bright light.|
|I was just wondering. Has anybody tried to remagnetize there dynohub by putting a 1/2 amp current back into it with a varible power suply. I have one that I had taken apart not knowing that it would weaken it. I guess it can't hurt it.|
| I remember this subject being discussed in great detail on this very site a few years back. There is someone who has an apparatus to remagnetize the magnet, for which he asks a $30.oo fee, but his name and e-mail particulars escape me. Don't scoff, this is NOT a straight forward process, as there are 20 points on the dyno-hub magnet as opposed to 2 or 4 points on automotive magnets, so the apparatus is a major piece of hardware. I also vaguely remember the idea of ceramic magnets being mooted, as they are lighter (!!!) and do not loose their power when separted from the armature. There are currently a few manufacturers for dyno-hub STYLE dynamos, as S/A declined to renew their patent rights back in the '80's. Shimano/Nexus makes them, as well as a German manufacturer. I've never had one of these new ones in my hands, so I don't know what kind of "innards" they contain. |
Dyno-hubs are very interesting, and are what got me hooked on this English roadster craze to start with.
Have fun putting back those teenzy-weenzy fixing bolt nuts and lock washers on the hub!
|As recently as a year ago there were two re-magnetizing machines in operation. One was operated by Jobst Brandt and the other by Ric Hjertberg. Schmidt may be the name of the other dynohub manufacturer you mentioned. For me, the appearnce of inexpensive white LED illumination settled the issue. Virtually indestructable lamps driven by triple A batteries that last for over 100 hours! And you can move the unit quickly from bike to bike ... a plus for a collector.|
|Eric Hjertberg's email address was ehjertberg at yahoo.com over a year ago. When you're fooling around w/Dynohubs, just make sure you don't separate the ring magnet and armature inside it. The whole dynamo can be removed AS A UNIT from the hub so you can service bearings.|
|I posted these on my other favorite bicycle website "Roll Britannia", so forgive me if you saw them there too! To see my photos go to: http://tinyurl.com/yw6lr|
|Beatiful,thanks for sharing.|
I'm working on getting the bike I had as a child back on the road. At the risk of giving away my age, this bike has been "stored" in an earthen-floored shed for more than 25 years and has become something of a "bucket o' rust." This is the first time I've attempted a major bike overhaul--i.e., cleaning and repacking bearings.
I have pulled the crank and headset and have cleaned the bearings and cones with degreaser (WD-40). I'll be repacking these bearings soon. However, I'm not really sure what to do about the rear hub, which is an old style (circa 1974) Shimano 333. (Wish it were a Sturmey-Archer).
The 333 has an oiler cap. What would be best to do? Add some oil and hope for the best? Or take the bugger apart and grease up the bearings?
I can find a fair amount of information about SA hubs, but not much about the care and feeding of old Shimano ones.
Thanks so much for your help.
|Taking it apart and greasing the bearing would always be best even if it were a S/A hub. But I'd try oling the hub with a lite oil ---sewing machine oil is good--needs to be a non-gumming oil.Mind you,Japan can and does make very hi-quality products---the 333 is NOT one of them.It was made cheap to sell quick.You might check on Sheldon's web site--I seem to recall someone saying later model Shimano hub inters will inter-change with the 333 hub--don't take my word on that--I don't know for sure.A good cleaning greasing,oiling ,tires,etc will get you back in the saddle---sam|
| You're right about the parts interchangeability (sp?) with later Shimano hubs. A cursory search of the archives before my first post revealed that the 333 was considered by most to be of not the best quality.|
Since I really don't have the tools to pull this hub any way, I'll probably do as you suggest and go the sewing machine oil route. The pawls still tick fairly loudly, so maybe it'll be okay.
I've sunk a lot more money into this bike than it is really worth any way. Sentimentality makes one act foolishly sometimes.
| You are certainly correct about sentimentality.|
I still have my childhood bike (197? Huffy musclebike), sort of...
It's components are hanging on different nails of the rafters in my shop. I promise that one day I will dump way too much money into this project, but it is well worth it.
When I sit and look upon this bike it becomes a time machine; transporting me to those younger days and all the adventures we had together. Almost as though it were merely yesterday that these events had happened.
Sometimes ya' gotta do that which may seem irrational, just purely for the sake of sentiment.
Take it easy and enjoy that old time machine of yours...
|..and if you look you can find plenty of critics of the Sturmey-Archer AW, notably Jobst Brandt who argues there is no excuse except cheapness for the AW's ability to 'freewheel' forward between 3 and 2 without warning, with the potential to cause an injury we've all experienced... the 333 is serviceable and reliable enough for the bike it came on.|
|I got a "shop kit" of spare parts for Shimano 3 speeds on e-bay, just rebuilt a 333 "Model F" (instructions in Glenn's manual), and it works fabulous! Much quieter than an S-A. Don't know how long it will last, but I've got plenty of spares to keep it going forever!|