| ....and a suggestion to all English cycle fans to check your rims for corrosion!|
I've probably made it no secret that I am looking for a set of S-A 32 and 40 hole 26" X 1-3/8th" Endrick rims, on the contrary, I haven't kept my mouth shut about it.
Well, now it's definite that I need a pair...or the rear one, for that matter.
Let the following photo be a warning to all cycling enthuthiasts to use solid rims with no deep internal rust! The resulting sound of the rim bucking and the tube exploding caused a noise like a gunshot.
If you have one, or a pair of 26" X 1-3/8th" Endricks (no Westricks!), please email me at email@example.com with condition & pricing.
Thank you very much.
| Wow... unsettling to say the least! We do need be mindful of that sort of thing for sure.|
About three years ago, whilst detailing my motorcycle, I came across a split in the rear rim. About 1/8" at the widest point and 6 or so inches long. The innertube was pushing itself through this split rather nicely!
Fortunately, it was found whilst so detailing. Otherwise, I'm quite certain there would have a catastrophic failure in the very near future.
Kinda why I keep a rather clean machine... ya just never know what you may find when closely inspecting. In that case, it pretty much saved me a trip to the E.R. ... or maybe worse even.
Thanks for the heads up!
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| Just had someone drop off this bicycle against my fence. |
It is a green Roben Special "All Steel Bicycle".
Rod brakes, single speed. 26 x 1 3/8 tires.
Frame is twin over/under upper tubes.
States that: "Roben Special bicycle are manufactured to last a life of good riding" (not great english)
Badge is a take off of Raliegh.
Has a "P" cutout on front lamp bracket.
Has S.I.W hubs front and back.
Grips are "River Plastic Made"
Any help on just the country of origin would be great, any other info would be wonderful. From the looks, it was not an expensive bicycle when bought, but still a pretty complete bicycle.
Has a serial number of No. 2569
| I hope no one considers my questions to be inappropriate for this forum. The English roadster column seemed closest to my interest.|
I have a small collection of mid-20th century Continental roadsters, and would like to find out more about their exact age, origin, and company histories. This type of roadster is still common in Bavaria and rural Austria, but very rare here in the US. I like them because they remind me of time as an exchange student 20 years ago.
First: An Austrian 28"x1.75"-tired 2-speed men's Puch-Steyr "Waffenrad". The Waffenrad was in production for almost 100 years and its specifications changed little during that time. Even into the 1980s, it still used a spoon brake on the front and kept its familiar black appearance.
This bike is very original and appears (to me) to be from the 1950s-1960s. It has a few plastic parts, including the headlight reflector and a soft white Puch-Steyr toolkit on the saddle. But the tires look very old, and it has no reflectors on the rear fender or pedals.
The best clue may be a decal on the seat tube that says "Puch-Steyr, 100 Jahre". I believe Puch-Steyr was incorporated in 1890, but I'm sure this bike is much older than 1990. What else could the logo refer to?
Further specifications: Spoon brake on front, square profile fenders w/ no provision for taillight or reflector, 3-piece cotterless steel crankset, Torpedo 2-speed hub w/ top tube shifter, "Ideale" brand seat, Union light & dynamo, black paint w/ chrome lugs, gold stripes on frame, green/gold stripes on fenders, silver stripes on rims, black cushioned Puch grips with end reflectors.
Second: A German 28"x1.75"-tired ladies' roadster. Logo: "N/der grosse deutsche Versandhaus". This is also a very original bike and appears (to me) to be from the 1950s-1960s.
Further specifications: spoon brake on front, marblized white/black two-tone paint, 3-piece cotterless steel crankset, Torpedo single-speed coaster brake, white vinyl saddle and ivory-colored grips, "Hebie" brand chainguard, holes in rear fender for skirt protector, nylon caps on fender nuts.
A good clue on this bike is a stamping on the frame brace between the seat stays, which doubles as the luggage rack mount: "Pat. Pend/Made in Germany/ESGE/Lizenz Pletscher".
Third: A German 28'x1.75"-tired men's roadster: "Diskus". This is also a very original bike and looks (to me) like it's from the 1930s-1960s. The only plastic parts on this bike are the headlight/taillight lenses.
Specifications: Spoon brake on front, marblized two-tone white/black paint with matching marblized/striped rims, 3-piece cotterless steel crankset, single-speed "F&S Komet-Super" coaster brake, "Berko" headlight & Dynamo, "Ulo" aluminum fender-mounted taillight, "Witkop-Turnier" saddle, "Diskus" front fender ornament.
Thanks for any information you may have.
| You've got good descriptions, but as you state, German bikes aren't very common in N. America.|
I know from personal experience that the Swiss army (and the PTT, or postal service) had their versions of the "Waffenrad" almost exactly as you describe, right up until the early '90's. Sachs, or Fichtel & Sachs is to the Germans as Sturmey was to the English, and I'm sure there must be websites that have information about them. I don't think they stamped dates on their hubs, but perhaps model #'s or name changes (F&S S a M, F&S, Sachs,etc . could be a good clue. I'm also curious about reflectors on bikes, wonder if the Germans had rules and laws pertaining to them, and if so, when did they come into effect.
One thing about German Roadster bikes, they are built tough. If you've ever rode down a cobblestone street in the Altstadt with a cheap Mtn bike, you know it'll shake apart within months...
| Some internet research turned up a few answers. The German ladies' bicycle with the mysterious "N" logo is apparently from Neckermann, a large German mail-order supplier. But I still don't know who actually manufactured it. The "ESGE" stamp on the seat tube brace probably just identifies the maker of that specific part (even though it is brazed into the frame). Esge still makes bicycle parts & accessories.|
Regarding the Austrian "Waffenrad", I found that a precurser to the Puch-Steyr company was incorporated in 1869, so the "100 Jahre" designation may indicate the bike was made in 1969. That seems right.
Thanks in advance for any additional insight. I would also be curious to know when reflectors became standard on German/Austrian bikes.
| We're now carrying long stems for your English cycle.|
They are 9 inches and really help to give you an upright riding position.
See part number:
or at the top of this page click on "Parts for Sale" and then click on "English Roadsters"
Vin - VVVintage Vintage Bicycles, Inc.
| We don't have a lot of control over the tread patterns on the tires we purchase, but we just got a load of new 26 x 1 3/8 blackwall roadster tires with something very close to the traditional old style block tread. |
See part number:
or at the top of this page click on "Parts for Sale" and then click on "Tires"
Vin - VVVintage Vintage Bicycles, Inc.
Do these have the three rows of block tread like the old Dunlops?
| 3 full blocks plus two 1/2 blocks in each row.|
Brand is "VIA".
The blocks are not completely square, but are more of a trapezoid.
| Can anyone suggest a mfr and part # for snap ring pliers suitable for SA hubs? I believe they're a common automotive tool, but I've only found snap ring pliers for the rings with the little holes at the ends.|
| Well, It's here. Out of the box and in the the lair.|
The axle nut where the indicator chain proturding thru the box. It's ok.
This is a 1930's Humber with the rare 26 inch frame and 28 inch wheels.
Used, worn, rusty, dirty, greasy, flat, wasted, rotted tires too.
Due to my love affair with the famed Duplex fork and passion for tall frame English bikes of this type I went for it.
You only see these in old picture books of England and Ireland and then they were everyplace.
This is like the flying dutchman, you never see these on e- bay. Not the 28 inch wheels versions and never, ever in a 26 inch frame. Well, that's not true because after years of searching e- bay this one appeared and I have it.
The only parts that are useable is the:
frame, fork,chaincase,seatpost, seat, handlebars and rims. Yes, the rear hub too but it's well used. Fittings also.
Fenders are gone, they are the square type too. If I switch them anybody who knows Humbers will point out that.
Original Humbers had square fenders"
Later on the Raleigh made Humbers had rounded fenders.
I do need to check when Raleigh took over Humber because I believe that Humber came under the Raleigh banner back in the early 1930's so this is still a Raleigh made Humber albeiet an old one.
This is the bike that will wear the famed Royal Blue enamel when I find it and I think that I will test paint a ladies 26 inch wheel bike first to see how it looks.
This will be it. I have most of the bits I need but I will probably search out other bits anyways. I sit typing with grease and dirt on my hands from the bike.
It needs: stripping, sending out for stripping again, primer, sanding. painting, rubbing down, re- painting.
New parts like headsets, bottombracket parts, new lampbracket, handlebars, fenders, seatpost, seat, (that's the easy part!) rims, tyres,
Oh, the work. Then the things like lights, bells, odometers, leather accessories like mudflaps, bags,
rubber grips. nuts and bolts. The used 3 speed hub and the whole wheel spun so nicely, the last rider/owner kept it oiled. The inner chainwheel is in good shape after I prised away the chaincase pie plate.
What is the thing that drives me crazy is that if it were new condition it would be hanging up someplace where it would not be for sale or in a museaum where you do not even ask if it is for sale because it would be part of a display collection.
This is the second 26 inch Humber frame I have. The other one is a 26 inch Raleigh frame and I had a new longer steer tube put in a 28 inch wheel Humber fork. The fork went from a 24 inch steer tube to a 26 inch steer tube.
The frames are identical Humber or Raleigh the only difference being paint and decals. That's true but the milling is different on the Raleigh and the headset parts are ultra rare and different and quite interchangable on the one. Thankfully this last one is standard.
Well, not standard like on your Raleigh sports, D.L.1.'s not the later type. No on this the top nut is different.
When I get my Humber page up I will show all this.
Along with the restoration as it progresses.
It'll be a Humber shrine, I'll cough up everything I have scanning it all.
Why couldn't this bike be a original blue one instead of wearing old chipped common black enamel?
It looks cool hanging up.
I'm going with original chrome parts in new, original condition. No re-chroming, then again the choicest, most trick rims I have need re- chroming so I don't know. If anymore of these 28 inch wheel Humber appear up for sale and I see it, I'll go after it and own more of these but I think because these never go up for sale that I'll be settling down and getting into the restoration of what I have. Also not so fast there because other folks collect Humbers too. I think that I only got this one because I bid it up higher than other more sensable folks would give for a rough one in England. Maybe not. I don't know.
There was a piece writtin about "Retro Humber still a hit" and it was out of Africa but the bike was the 26 inch cable brake version but it had the exact same fork and chainwheel with the men in a circle.
Also Mario R. here has a orange Humber from Brazil so there are chapters on Humber that I do not understand yet.
Never did find out whom exactly to contact in Africa about the Humbers they have there and how to buy one of those.
With the plans in my head for this it will not be cheap or quick and I intend to go all the long way to make this the most awesome original looking trick little retro ride astride cream coloured tyres we have yet seen.
Now I can compare the two forks. the original one out of the 26 inch frame against the other one that had the steer tube replaced. It'll be fine the rake is the same. The 26 inch frame Raleigh fork is there too needing fork thmble crowns of a vintage and type and finish from long ago and here you thought the common thimble fork crowns from the Raleigh chopper fit everything all the way back. Well yes, but not far back enough. You cannot replace a steer tube on a Raleigh fork but the Humber fork you can even find new and it is re-buildable.
Another can of worms is ... Do I want to motorize it or not?
| This takes awhile. After years I have a set of Dunlop rims that are very strange never seen before or since. They need re- chroming and special tyres. I want to use these. the seat post took awhile. extra long. L shape in superbe finish.|
Hubs? A choice of what to put in there too. All N.O.S., all not cheap to get ahold of. Rear rack? Oh the pain that was.
Choice bits from a few bikes to build a masterpiece. original stainless steel spokes. All decked out in the finest I have ever found collecting this. I'm still not done bit hunting yet!
old Hybrid gears on a four speed?
No hybrid gears with the enclosed chaincase no.
| In the diagrams section here they show the locking fork model Humbers. None of mine have this feature, I never have seen one that was available for me to buy. Not in the 28 inch wheel type.|
| Raleigh acquired Humber (already Nottingham based) early: 1933.|
Congrats on a great find. A 28" wheel roadster with a 26" frame is a noble and imposing machine.. ride that and you can truly say "I'm On Top of the World!"
Now go out and get a can of Jaguar blue....
| Sounds like a wonderful machine Christopher. "Top of the world" is RIGHT P.C. My DL-1 is of the larger 23" frame and I get that feeling riding IT. Can't imagine 3" higher. I would need stilts methinks.....|
Best of luck on the restoration. Certainly sounds like a labour of love and will yield a wonderful result!
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| The local thrifts have been sparse these last few weeks, not much luck at yard sales either, until yesterday. I stopped by my local thrift with a resigned feeling of seeing nothing but Huffy's and Murrays. I spy some aluminum rims and lo it is a Ladies Specialized Crossroads for $24. Alright!!, I already have a customer for this so I take it to the front to check out. While waiting, I notice a Raleigh headbadge. I get closer, it is a very good condition Men's Sports. I can barely contain my excitement. When I pay for the Specialized, I tell the checkout girl that I'll take the Raleigh also. I check the price, it's for $14. Since I'm retired military, I get 25% off. I can't believe it! I get it home, and it looks original except for newer tires and a Murray saddle (that has got to go). No rust, a few nicks on the top tube, a nice silver 23" 1974 Raleigh Sports for $11. Life is good!! The Specialized was nice, but the Raleigh Sports, that's just special. Well worth the long wait.|
| Good on ya! Yeah, I've been somewhat remiss myself in checking in at the thrifts... and doggone it, I did not get the chance to scope out ONE of the plethora of yard sales over the Labour Day weekend.|
Coulda grabbed a Sprite out of the trash last week... alas, I was on the motorcycle, not the truck.
Glad to hear of your success. They are out there!
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| Bryant: I got you beat, last summer at church yard sale, 1974 silver Raleigh Sports with probably less than 100 miles on it for eight bucks!! All it needed was brass wool very lightly on handle bars (warning never use steel wool it scratches, I know I did it to my '63 cranberry red Raleigh sports northroads), a drink of SAE30 for the rear hub and air in the gumwall tires marked Raleigh!!! Its a great ride...paul|
| I recently acquired a Raleigh Gazelle, which, by the serial number, appears to be a 1930 bike. I don't know for sure.|
It has an undated AW hub. Did they make AW hubs in 1930?
| Hello fellows,|
Recieved my Sturmey-Archer GH6 yesterday. It's in reasonable shape, some idiot cleaned the chrome with 1500 grit sandpaper, making for a semi-alloy appearance.
I have a few questions about the hub's nuances and mechanical quirks, which I will explain below. Here are the photos of my hub directly fron the Ebay ad, just in case anyone is interested:
Before I go into discussion about it however, I would like to point out the hub's 1946 date. According to the Sturmey manual I have here, the adjusting cone should be on the dynamo side on all hubs prior to April 1952, which I soon found out to be quite confusing.
Since this is the first Dynohub I've owned, I am not familiar with how this-and-that operates on it.
I'm particularly confused by the armature. Common sense dictates that the armature should be rigid with the axle and forks, and the hub shell spin around it. After all, if the armature spun with the wheel, the power leads would become tangled in the axle. However, on this hub, the armature does just that - spin around on the axle with the hub shell.
I found that I could spin the armature with my fingers, quite stiffly though, more then I would expect. I would expect such a force to tear the wire leads right off, which didn't seem right. Is this typical of the Dynohub?
I will continue this post tommrow, as I'm having trouble finding the right keys tonight....oh well!
| The cover (metal or bakelite) of the armature is fastened to the axle between (and by) the cone and locknut. If the locknut isn't tight it can indeed turn. Since the bearing adjustment is all off on your hub, let's hope the magnet and armature haven't been disassembled (Be careful to keep the armature within the ring magnet at all times. They easily come out of the shell together and tend to stay together because of the magnetism.) You can get a very rough guess as to its utility by simply connecting an AC voltmeter between the terminals and turning the magnet by hand quickly around the armature. The meter should show some voltage. If the magnet is dead, they can be remagnetized but not cheaply. |
| Dear David,|
I figured out the problem - the spacing cup was spinning around on the bakelite armature disc. The spacing cup seemed to have been loose a long time, as it had gradually wore out the bakelite disc, causing the locknut to bottom out on the cone, not the spacing cup. I got it to work by inserting a washer between the spacing cup and locknut - works better, but not exceptional. At least the axle spins with acceptable resistance.
I am familiar with the requirement of the keeper ring when taking the armature out - that's why I made great pains to keep them together, although, unfortunatly, they did slip apart when I was struggling with the spacing cup.
I wasn't too upset that the dyno unit seperated though, as I never meant to hook it up - I got the hub because I couldn't find a standard Raleigh-stamped 32 hole hub at a decent price...and I've always been looking for an excuse to buy a Dynohub...now I regret it! ;-) Oh well...chuck it off to experience.
P.S.: I wouldn't hesitate to bet that someone seperated the dyno unit without the keeper once before though. Although I didn't check it with my multimeter, I still suspect that the hub had been 'un-professionally' taken apart before. The hub shaft threads are offset, and no matter which way or how far I installed the cones, I always found that I had precious little thread left to bolt the axle too. I was finally able to get enough thread on both ends though.
Well, enough of my rattling on for one night :-)
| The first time I aquired a dyno-hub, about 4 years ago, I felt like a 6 year old who just realizes that he can take the world apart with a screwdriver and a crescent wrench. |
The dyno-hub is very fun to experiment with, and over the years I have substituted S/A drum brake "guts"into the dyno's shell in both the GH6 and FG versions, rebuilt axles with new BMX hollow axles and orginal cones, and rebuilt axles with AW axles (minus the sun pinion) and AW cones. For some reason the GH6 is very hard on cones, they pitt frequently and are getting hard to find replacements. Oh, and by the way, there's an English Co. that makes halogen bulbs especially for S/A dynohubs, called "Reflectalight". It puts out a decent white light, even more decent if you use a rear l.e.d. "blinky" light.
| Kurt, If you want to start playing around with these things I have what I believe is a new stator and rotor set with mounting bolts plus a used stator and rotor set with mounting bolts. Both have been kept together as units for as long as I remember. I am in New Zealand so the postage will not be cheap but the asking price will be. Email me if you are interested. Cheers, Ian.|
| I have this hub for sale, will somebody offer me 6.00 for it? I'm sick of looking at it!|
It is a N.O.S. Perry 2 star, model B, 28 hole coaster brake single speed hub complete with the axle nuts. never used. the tag asks 50.00 I ask 6.00 plus shipping comes complete with a 19 tooth cog. original perry cog.
Not cut out of some wheel but loose and new, never used. cones are new, whole hub has never been opened up.
If it does not sell I'll grumble and groan and put it back onto the shelf where it will sit. Or maybe TOSS IT OUT! YEA! HEAVE IT INTO THE TRASH! I'm in a mood!
Yes, this hub taught me not to pick up any more of these unless the dude gives it to me free.
Why do I have this hub you may ask? I love this stuff anything Perry and it has the brake arm clamp with the original bolt and nut. I have no use for this hub and so it bothers me that I can't get rid of it!
I do not remember what I gave for it and I don't like the process of haggling for things. If I can just remember to get everything that I did buy loaded up into the car and not forget anything and have to go back and make another trip, I'm ok.
I've been sitting here, cross at this thing, wishing it was an alloy shell Sturmey- Archer F.M. hub or something like that. Now that would sell! But Nooo, I have to be burdened with this steel shell 28 hole (for kids bikes)
Perry hub. Now you can remove the worn guts out of your 36 hole shell hub and pop these innards into your wheel that why I'm offering this hub! We all know that hardly anybody is gonna need a 28 hole drilling hub.
This hub is probably testament to the fact that the guy I got this from did have other more tasty goodies and that I missed out. The old bicycle collector vultures just left this for me. The hub is marked Perry 28-14 England.
Somebody out there would be glad to have this would use and appreciate this and wonder what my problem is and they would tell me...
"That is a good hub and yours in new!"
So where is this person?
I have a perry wrench I'll throw in too....
| Ok, it's back up on the shelf, I'll hang onto it. E- mail if you need it.|
| FOR SALE (update):|
New 'Brightwall' 26 X 1-3/8th E.A.3 tires, a perfect tire for your 1974-1979 Raleigh Sports. Looks almost like the original thin whitewalls that came on these bikes originally, but with silver striping instead (which can pass for white - it fooled me the first time I saw them). Nice smooth, crisply molded tread too.
On sale - $28.00/pair. (Subject to availability. Price does not include shipping costs.)
Email me at firstname.lastname@example.org if you are interested.
| Is the silver stripe perhaps a reflective stripe?|
| David, you are absolutely correct - I checked my post, and I forgot to mention that it is reflective. |
My brain must have 'skipped a sprocket' there....
Thanks for pointing it out!
| Anyone got a spair left fluted raleigh crank arm for a 50s lenton they want to sell?If so I can forward an email I got from someone lookin for one to fix up his dad's old bike---sam|
| Ain't that a coincidence...I need the same thing for a 50 Lenton Sports! Call me Sam, if you get offered two, would you?|
| I have em, but I need them for my own Lenton's. the chrome is all mess up and that depresses me to look at them so they are hidden away where I won't see it while my bikes still need cranks.|
These are beautiful cranks, I wish mine were new. Forget about re- chroming them in the states the chrome won't match the English chrome.
Good luck to you both!
| I'm at the point where I want it new, I want to be good and charged a lot of money for it too!|
Yes, I don't care as long as it is new and original with all the fittings. Gleaming chrome, I want paper wrappings and lovely colorful original boxes with instructions and original shop tags and the chrome parts all wrapped up in oil soaked paper wrappings.
Or with varnish over chrome. Yes after you sock me good pricewise and I stand there reeling at how much you asked me to pay for it, after I hear about all the other well known folks whom I beat out to get it. I want to slowly unwrap it and hold the new parts in my hand and all will be well. This goes further, I want the whole bike new in wrappings, still gleaming with rotting paper tags stll attached.
Old, used, needing overhauling, depresses me. I'm jealous of the last owner who got to enjoy it new. Dirt, faded glory, rusty, dinged up, missing parts just bums me out. Yes, I have the parts, still it needs work and that's a lot of bother. I look at it and know that I can never put it back to like it was when it was new and the factory is gone, long gone. I don't want to be let down and dissapointed by some restorer either.
On vacation I told the guy selling the Schwinn with the springer fork.
" No, it's the two Schwinn auto cycles that you covet in your shed, the ones that you say are murder finding tanks for. The secret stash that you won't mention let alone sell. That's what I want, the not for sale private collection stuff. I don't want to sell you my tank that I moved heaven and earth to find myself I want what you are working on and I want it cheap." He grinned at me as he walked me to the door. I know... he'll never sell it. My point is, life is to short. If he does call me then I know he went broke, or some terrible calamity has happened and he has no choice and then I'll be loading it up into the truck with mixed emotions.
I do have projects and bike dreams and aspirations myself and I would not want to have to dump something before I get done restoring it myself so I understand.
I'm going to keep asking and trying for the thing that I have absolutely no chance in heck to ever get ahold of. The super model that replies:" Oh, Please!"
and snuffs at me in disgust as she walks away in the other direction. At least I tried!
Who knows? They might be already drunk or perhaps I can get them drunk and sign off! You know they say to me, that's the only way you'd ever, ever get it. Whatever it is.
The guy said "No, never, they're mine and I'm working on them and when I offered him hard liquor or cash bills he said:
The catalog I just recieved has lovely light pastel shades of green Phillips bicycles. I sat there stunned at the beauty of these bikes and wondered if I'll ever see one of them before me and not just in print.
Even used would do, because these are not just available in mint shape anymore. There is nobody to say: "I have it, it's mint and I will sell it to you" even if they would soak me good pricewise you do not see them offered at all.
See! I'm all desperate and lowering my standards again!
Somwhere out there behind some guarded wall people with the right connections are riding lovely mint 1950's bicycles with gleaming chrome and pastel shades of paintwork and perfect decals and bells and they ride at night in secret. I'm not part of the secret society of vintage bicyclists, I don't know where they meet.
Besides, if I ever do learn and get admitted I can never tell you as there must be some secret code they abide by.
Dreaming of Italian supermodels, wearing vintage silk outfits astride mint vintage bicycles shaking their heads at me while waving the fingers at me saying: "No, no not you, not ever!" while some guy in the background tells me rudely and curtly:
"The bikes are not for sale, but we have some used ladies bikes missing fenders and chainguards and we want 300.00 each for those!" Please , let me wake up!
| Glad to have you back, Chris!|
| Warren,email me at email@example.com |
| I have a Roold 10 speed, purchased in 1971. It was the right price, about $200,and certainly not the best in the store back then. It was the only Roold they had and nobody I've talked to had (or has) ever heard of them - I guess it must be some French bike. It's got simplex, mavic, and campy parts, sew up tires (which still hold air after 30 years), a decal on the front in which there is an animal resembling a rat or squirrel, or kangaroo. The thing weighs about 25 lbs and has a fairly small gear ratio up front. It had lots of miles on it when I retired it about 1974, it's pretty beat up from being in storage. Does anyone know anyting about it? The frame looks solid but not nearly as good as new ones nowadays of course (the frame says "VITUS"). Is this safe? Garage sale coming up - should I junk it or try to fix it up? I'd appreciate any information. Thanks.|
| Here's a subjective/esoteric question for y'all...I love riding on my local "rails to trails" trail, but I'd like to pass the joggers/walkers in the least traumatic (for them) yet simple way. My DL-1 has an OEM Raleigh bell, with a very loud, very businesslike "kaaaachiiiinnng". I once knew a fellow who had a stem-mounted "ding-dong"-type bell on his DL-1, which I thought was an excellent, light-hearted sound, but I don't know what it was. Yeah yeah, I should just be yelling "on yer left" but... : ) Anybody know of a kind little bell I might like? Thanks.|
| Ah yes... very technical item yer lookin' for. I believe it's called the "Ding Dong" bell. ;-) Anyhow, Debbie in Scotia, NY sells 'em.|
They are kinda sharp too. Somewhat loud, yet not "shrill".
| You might try one of the very cheap (bell brand I think) bells at Wal-Mart.They are very small with a spring thing on the side that you chick with your thumb.I think they are sold for kiddy bikes but they do have a nice light ding sound--and they're small!---sam |
| I've seen those too. There are different varieties of them and they range in size. Some even have wee compasses built into the dome. And yes... they emit one "DING!"|
Kinda neat. Some of them are quite small... yet LOUD!
Larry "Boneman" Bone
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| Some old lady once yelled at me for passing her without alerting her with a bell. So now, no matter what, I ring my "King of the Road" loud and clear whenever I come up behind anyone. In those rare instances where I do want to exercise some restraint, my brother and I like to mute the bells with our hands like a jazz musician would mute his horn.|
| Would it be possible to run front and rear dyno hubs, and wire them together for twice the power over a single standard dynohub? Or perhaps use the front dyno to power the headlight and the rear dyno to power the taillight? Would the effort yield brighter light or simply more weight?|
| Since the Dyno produces AC, two of them will be almost certainly out of phase. Surf around and you can find a lot of schemes for rectifiers, battery chargers, etc using Dynohubs.|
You might try some of the ideas on this website, http://www.nscl.msu.edu/'daniel/regulator.html. There is lots of good info there. But as for linking two SA dynohubs, you would have to rectify them to DC first and then use something as a power sink like a battery or a capacitor to get 12 volts. Good luck.
| E-gads! Rectifiers, power sinks....enough to make my head spin. Thanks for the advice guys, I'll probably just enjoy the warm yellow light the dyno produces as is!|