| What do you think the value would be of a 68 Raleigh sprite 21" frame S5 hub and Raleigh pattern stanless steel rims Sturmey Archer SS EA3(no kidding). color dark maroon. All original execpt tires and tubes A1 mechanical. Paint is scratched a little but decals mostly good. This also has B72 saddle same color rack and rebuildable pedals. chrome very good. I use this as my primary bicycle of choice. I have never been on a more comfortable bicycle.|
| item 6567485869 has a couple of things going for it.It's one of the rarer coffee brown Superbes in the desireable 23 inch size. Could do very well indeed.|
| That it might "do very well", my dear Warren, is an understatement.|
The final bid on this all-original, nicely maintainted, 3-speed, late 70's Superbe has undoubtedly set a record...final bid ending at:
Nine-hundred ten dollars.
Has anyone ever seen any 1970's Raleigh, save for a DL-1, fetch this amount of money before? I haven't.
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| I'm going to go out on a limb and say someone overpaid...|
I landed my 23 inch sports (was in really good shape too) on the bay for $30.
| Here's some additional proof that the FG was manufactured well through the '70s:|
NMA, NRS, YMCA, FTP, HTML, IOU, ETC...
Hub is dated 82-12. And you fellows thought that my '79 dated AG was strange.
P.S.: Anyone seen the 1973 Rudge Chopper on eBay? Yes, a '73 Rudge Chopper. It's in Haifa, Isreal - another export model. Bet the Humber name lasted into the late '70s for export use as well...we just don't have anything currently to back this up as fact.
| My blueprint diagram of the never manufactured, never sold and never seen the light of day. Sturmey- Archer F.M.B.|
The F.M. hub with a brake!
About to be offered on the bay by myself. I found it in my stash and am curious what it might bring. I am rather dissapointed by the original blueprint drawing diagram of the Sturmey- Archer S.W. hub that went on e- bay recently. I thought there would be a high bid, paid but it flopped. It sold for like 30.00 or so. The Humber bicycle master catalog that the printer used to produce the catalog that everybody got in 1937 went cheaply without hassle too. The last time I saw a FG hub it was in a bike that a fellow inherited. He would not sell it, he wanted to destroy the whole bike and would not be steered away from wrecking it. Seems his dad was unkind to him and there was bad memories with the bike and now his son was going to take it out on the bike he inherited from the late father. Strange. Marvelous machine, mint flawless. i begged pleaded, waved cash in his face, upped it, offered more. Shop pals tried to talk him out of it. He put it in the car with the glint/ intent of impending destruction in his eyes. It hurt me as I like to save these. Especially the minty mint examples. It was my first D.L.1. bike with the D.B.U. FG kit that I had yet seen. Overhauling the F.G. is fun!
Perhaps the Stumey - Archer people did indeed make a medium ratio FM hub combined with a brake after all.... Perhaps it is out there someplace forgotten in somebodys bike that is leaning up against a shed wall.
Always look these bikes over because the rules were broken from time to time.
| More than one blueprint diagrams of each model hub were most certainly drawn up and even though this last one did have the seals on it and signatures and dates on the paper blue prints it still went so cheaply. Most of this material is lost or buried in the deepest parts of collectors lairs. Things we don't see every day. |
| Did I say FG? Shoot - I meant AG. Have had my mind a bit too much on the DynoFour recently. |
FM with a brake, eh? Have always toyed with the idea of an S5 built into a AB hub, looks like I wasn't too far off from what might have been a reality.
Chris, that story hurts. Violence against an object solves nothing. I could have yanked it out of his hands, right then and there - I'm glad I wasn't there. His cold defiance alone could have made me go mad.
I'm currently working on building an S5 (from parts I've scavenged from the various LBS) - which is essentially, the FW with a bit of extra hardware on the left hand side - and I must say it is quite enjoyable to work with - possibly easier to work on then the AW.
I've yet to find the planet gears and a few other small parts for my S5 hub, but it's already been quite fun putting it together.
Take care Chris,
P.S.: Bought one of the LBS out of all their Sturmey-Archer parts today - 30 pounds of assorted parts for the AW, TCW, and SW, minus hub shells.
| Hi Kurt,|
My recollection of the mid-eighties here in the land of the limey is that we could still purchase a 'Raleigh Royal Roadster' (DL-1 or Superbe in the states) from our local raleigh dealer. It was available in black and came with rod brakes and dyno lighting. Waht I can't recall is which hub held the generator, but if it was the rear hub then surely Gear/dyno hubs were being made at least as late as 1986.
By the way I spied a chap a-top a huge Dutch roadster yesterday. He was six foot plus and the cycle was a large frame with a very long seat post. I guess it may have been a 24" frame but he looked as though he was sitting as high as a high wheeler rider would sit - in the clouds!
Matthew - off to work in unseasonally warm and pleasant weather.
ve currently scrounged 3 FG hubs now, one is installed on my "franken-bike", but with a few changes... As the drum brakes and the dyno-hub share share the same measurements, I've gone and stuck a drum brake into the FG hub. Works very well, only substitue the left cone for one with better dust shield, like one from an AB, as any oil leaking into the cavity wouldn't be very good... Cable routing was a challange, ended up with the left side trigger for the rear brake.
| Aquired a S/A headlamp, an older model with the little black peg switch mounted underneath the lamp body. Chrome is in remarkably good condition, and the dents were easily removed using a rounded spruce dowel. Problem is the lens, it's very yellow. Can't swap it with a newer one, because the newer ones are smaller. Any suggestions to bleach it, or remove the yellowness? |
I have come across many of the older lamps with yellow lenses and I've always been of the opinion that they were made that way. Or maybe they are celluloid in which case don't try bleach because celluloid is rather frail.
Matthew - pondering
| Can you post the diameter of the lense or better yet a photo? I have some replacement lens that I found in a box in an old bike shop.|
| I'm also interested in any home remedies for the yellow lens syndrome. I've got a couple of the smaller SA lamps that need attention.|
| I've had some luck with cleaning yellowed headlamp lenses using motorcycle windshield polish. I did a few older Schwinn and Union branded lenses with it and they came out like new, but I haven't had the oportunity to try it on any older British lights. The yellow on the one's I had turned out to be only on the surface, the polish just removed the discolored plastic on the surface, as well as all of the scratches. (Works on car headlight lenses to). The polish can be had at most motocycle shops. It works on any scratched or weathered hard plastic.|
| Thanks for the advice everyone. The lens measures 3 1/14" across with "Sturmey-Archer" in raised letters and a rather large square chunk of plastic near the top, which I'm assuming is to keep the lens from rotating.|
If I look through the lens sideways it appears clearer than looking through it straight through, and there are scratches, for some reason inside as well...
Don't know when they made this style of lamp last. As I said earlier it's the style with a peg-style switch mounted underneath, and the mounting bracket is slightly different as well. It's larger than the "modern" ones-that is, the ones with the tear-drop shaped top mounted switch. The chrome is pretty darn good and thick, and the metal itself is heavier gauge, and some kind of steel, because a magnet will stick to it.
Oh, anyone know how to clean the parabolic (sp?) reflector? White-ish crud all over it. Windex OK?
| Meguiar's(Brand name) makes Scratch X fine scratch and swirl remover---sam |
| Things like this, say the heck with it and pay for it new. let them clobber you, pay too much. This is the bicycle candy, magical marvelous little things that make life worth living. |
| Try carefully polishing the lens with white toothpaste on a buffer, or by hand. While you may not neccessarily get all the yellow out, it'll still(hopefully) take out the cloudiness, and it should work pretty good.|
Don't forget to use black shoe polish on the black frames, instead of car wax!
It makes them look almost as good as new!
second thoughts are sometimes best (though usually too late to help) You could try Jewellers Rouge to clear the lenses. It is recommended for removing scratches from car windscreens etc. You would get it from.......a jeweller!
Matthew - off to work, tempus fugit.
| Thanks everyone, try the toothpaste first, then the m/cycle windsheild polish, and if that doesn't go, last attempt is the jewler's rouge.|
I have'nt had that many good experiences with jewler's rouge. Like everyone else who purchased a Dremel kit, I've got a little vial of Jewler's rouge. I tried it out with the felt polishing bob on a red reflector a while back, not impressed: The felt bob was abrasive enough to melt/score the soft lens, even though I had the tool on the lowest rpm possible.
Windex OK for the reflector?
| I've pondered your predicament (usually cycling to & from the local). Both the lens on my 51 roadster are glass, the front clear with the lines running vertically, the back red & facetted. Until recently I was running the original bulb, itself a thing of beauty with golf ball like dimpling.(then tearing back from the pub without the back light connected, she blew(weep, kick myself, swear,) the light that burns so long burns not so whitely?) The light it gave off was very strong but somewhat more yellow/red than the blue tinge of today. Even with a modern bulb it still gives a warm glow not white light. Still plastics yellow, my guess - through oxidation - like varnish - you could remove that film - but it will form again (your could seal it to stop this). and it may be that it was meant to be yellowish - beware the modern obsessions with clean, white, brightness. |
| Edward in Vancouver, Even jewelers don't use felt wheels with rouge much. A muslin (cloth) wheel would be gentler and follow what contours there are bettr. Not much pressure is used. |
| Just when I got over my chaincase woes, I had trouble with my 4 spd trigger: It refused to engage in 1st or "Bottom". Knew it wasn't the hub, because if I held the trigger down, it would engage no problem, but the trigger wouldn't stay in position. 4Spd triggers are very hard to come by, and this one was a little special because I had to make a new spring for it and re-build it a few years back.|
Cleaned and oiled the trigger, ran some dental floss between the trigger and body and the notched plate, oiled the cable and pulley, made sure there was no kinks in the cable, but still no go. Frustrated, I removed the trigger and examined it in greater detail. Spring was strong, parts clean, nothing sticking, what was going on? I remounted it again and checked, it held in 1st, and then after switching to 2nd and back to 1st it gave up.
Then I noticed the postion of the spring: It was right up against the left side of the trigger body, causing un-even pressure on the little metal flap. By moving the spring slightly over to the middle, and jamming a wood chip between the spring and trigger body, the spring stayed more or less in the middle, now the the trigger would stay in 1st. Gave it a road test, purposely going over the largest bumps to see if the trigger held. It did...
| Edward:I'm having the same 4 speed trigger problem that you had. It clicks out of 1st on it's own.I can't fifure out from your post what to look for. Help?|