| ok i bought a excelent condition amf globemaster 3 at a grage sale for 10 bucks now im trying to date it|
it has a sturmy archer rear wheel and instead of a date code it says AW
| You may want to have another look at the hub. Sometimes the date stamp is barely there. I have an AMF that was made in Austia that the S-A Hub dates to 71, but the numbers are so faint, I didn't see them at first. There are other clues as well. Up to about 1970, AMF was supplied by Hercules from England, then for a few years by Styer-Daimler-Puch from Austria, then lastly by Murray. The Murrays have a one-piece crank, the S-D-P bikes have a Two-piece crank (only has a cotter on the left side), and the Hercules have the traditional 3-piece cottered crank.|
I have a pair of bicycles in excellent condition and wondered what the going price is for them.
One is a 1971 Mens' Raleigh 'Superbe' and the other is a Ladies' 1973 Raleigh 'Superbe'. Three speed, both in green, both have back racks, front and rear working lights, bells.
Look forward to hearing from you. Thanks.
| Hi Karryn... as to value, well depends on condition. Sounds like they are complete and in good shape for the most part. As long as everything works on them, and all original components, etc. that's a good start.|
Just curious... are the "Frame Pumps" intact? i.e. not gone missing?
I for one, oft times use EBAY as a "price guide". It will tell you what price they are commanding. Though sometimes quite inflated.
The bikes sound wonderful! Are you selling them, or just curious as to value?
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| I just sold a clean Superbe minus saddle for $140 in CA. I wanted $50 more for the NOS B66 but buyer balked. Although you can find (rarely) these type at thrift shops and yard sales for $50 or less, a more typical price would be 100-250 depending on many, many factors. I'm currently having trouble selling a 50's Hercules Tourist for 175/200. Trouble is, no matter how fair the price, most people simply don't know the difference. So you have to wait for the right buyer...and wait...and wait.|
| Jack, the Hercules Tourist....? 28" or 26" wheels? Colour? Chaincase or guard? Sounds quite interesting..... ;-)|
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| NMA, etc...|
This was looking REAL good 'til I got to the brushed on, black paint.
I wonder how difficult it would be to remove....?
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| Looks good,but that an't the best deal on Ebay!I just bid $50 on a 531 raleigh brand of bike cause it's been up over 4 days and no bids---I don't expect to win with that bid but the bike is really a rare prize and worth searching for!---sam|
| Hey, guys, it's my auction. I spent some hours with very fine sandpaper, removing enough black paint to unearth the decals, some of which show up. Others, like the top tube one, are just vague shadows--too bad! I did get down to some of the old green paint, but it would be a lot of work to get all that black off, although it is not very thick. I would either leave it as-is and use it, or take it all to bits, sandblast it, and repaint with new decals from Lloyd's. She's a nice old girl, but I have just too many cycles now, and two more on the way from England, so a few have got to go.|
| Ah.... I was wondering if perhaps it was being offered by one of my fellow "denizens" at this forum.|
Also wonder... depending on what type of paint was used... if a little lacquer thinner might make short work of it.
Best of luck with the auction. I'm a "watching" it fer sure!
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| hi:Any body knows the purpose of the hole in the front and rear axle of my 1955 raleigh bicycle.my guess is for put some oil or grease . any body knows if ther is a tool to do that. thanks|
| Just a few drops of cycle oil will be of help. Use an oil can Jorge. The hole should have a spring clip to cover it.|
Matthew - off to tea.
| overhauling yet another bike for a friend looking for a sturdy commuter and i've run into a problem i'm hoping someone else has had better luck at solving:|
'76 superbe with dual heavy steel fender-stays welded into the rear mudguard. we also attached a zefal safari rack (really handy, and generally a good fit). the nut from the rack, now inside the fender eyelet, was hitting the chain, so we added a washer on each side between the locknuts and locking washers to give a little more room. that part worked really well, but, with the added washers, we've been unable to get the rear wheel aligned properly in the frame. the last couple of turns on the nds nut pull the wheel 6-8mm towards the ds at the top. without the washers, the alignment went just about as smoothly as could be. but, the washers have to stay at least as long as the rack does. the washers themselves look flat enough (even tried flipping them all around) and they're making complete and flush contact with the dropouts both inside and outside of the frame.
anyway, hoping someone out there who has dealt with far more and far trickier alignments than i have has some ideas about how to coax this wheel into place (and keep it there).
thanks in advance,
| Louis, I'm not quite sure why the wheel alignment is thrown off by adding washers to the fender eyelet on the dropout, but one thing to try is to take the wheel off and thread the bolt for the fender/rack from the inside; in other words, the head of the bolt will rest against the inside of the frame, and the nut, locknut on the outside. That bolt head should give you enough clearance not to come in contact with the chain. Good luck!|
| Do you have the proper alignment washers for the rear wheel? These slot into the dropouts?|
It vaguely sounds like you are splaying the frame spacing with this heavy rack (I'm unfamiliar with it). If that's the case, don't do it, lose the rack. There are many other useful racks for Sports models that fit. Period too!
| just to clarify, the washers are on the axle, designed to open the frame up an extra 2-3mm so that the nut (inside the fender eyelet) clears the chain. anyways, it sounds like the frame is spreading asymmetrically, which could well be the problem. |
unfortunately, flipping this specific bolt around so the head is on the inside won't help - it's deeper than the nut. but, that should be easily resolved with a trip to the hardware store. in any case, seems clear that the thing to do is to spend more time trying to work the rack out so that the extra washers can be removed.
as for the rack, i'm open to suggestions. for those of you unfamiliar with the zefal safari, i have to say, any concerns about it not being period are, for me, far outweighed by the terrific utility; it's light (aluminum), comes with a very handy adjustable rubber strap, accepts modern quick-release panniers (the pletscher and prestube racks that sometimes came on raleigh bikes don't), rated for 55lbs (which i've tested on many grocery runs) and it's even polished to a shine that doesn't look out of place on bikes with lots of chromed steel. with a couple of extra steel bands to go around the seat stays, i've attached them to everything from a twenty to a dl-1 and i've never had a complaint. not that any of this would sway someone who was primarily riding for pleasure or for whom period-correctness was key. for me, it's a small concession which makes a '59 sports far more suitable for a much greater % of my errands.
| I suggest you attempt to install the rack again (in the dropouts), after taking these precautions:|
#1: Is there enough axle prodtruding from the frame for the SA nuts to get a good grip?
#2: Are you using Sturmey-Archer's special serrated anti-rotation washers? If not, Oldroads.com has them here - get two. They are required for the installation of the SA hubs.
#3: Are the dropouts at exact 90 degree angles to the axle, or are they slightly spraed apart? If nessesary, re-align the dropouts by sliding an adjustable wrench around the flat metal, and carefully bending the dropouts to a correct angle.