| Although technically a lightweight, it was dressed up as a roadster. It went for $300 US. I think that's a bargoon when compared to the prices some Sports models have received. |
| I suppose that price isn't totally unexpected, given some of the bidding wars we've seen lately. Still, note that the winning bidder decided before anyone else that he'd go to $300. That seems like an awful lot of money for a Lenton Sports that's been heavily modified and doesn't seem to be in particular good condition. A couple of weeks ago, a 1959/60 Lenton Grand Prix went for $540 (http://tinyurl.com/9w6sq), so it does seem to be a seller's market for Raleigh VLWs.|
| NMA, etc.|
Interesting CHROME fenders on this one.
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| That looks like a 60's issue...at least the fenders. I've seen similar on some Sports models. Also missing the Dunelt chainwheel. I figure its pure Raleigh DL-1 branded as a Dunelt. Not common at all.|
| I have a very similar machine, also a '66, although it isn't as nice as the ebay one. The main difference between the Dunelt (I'm not sure what model it is, so I just refer to mine as a Dunelt DL1) and the Raleigh is the handlebars. The Dunelt has prewar-style, or pre-North Road style to be more precise, swept-back bars. They do not sweep forward the way North Road bars do, which means that they hit your knees during a tight turn! It also means a very upright riding position, even more so than a DL1. My Dunelt has a large sprocket brazed onto the original SA one in the rear, which gives very low gearing indeed. I know, brazing is not a good idea for powertrain components, but that's the way I bought it, and it seems to be holding up, so I will leave it alone until it comes adrift. The Dunelts also have very long cranks, longer than any of the DL1s I am associated with (I think they're 7 inches), which gives even lower gearing. Between the low gears and the very upright riding position, it's the nicest-riding machine I own. There is simply no question of riding fast, as you run out of gears quickly. As one wag put it, "It just doesn't do to go tearing about in a Rolls-Royce." The Dunelt is like that. Mine is pretty beat, but it's not for sale.|
I have seen two others like it, by the way, all men's 24" frames, all with the tacky chrome fenders and pre-North Road bars.
| Hay Guys,|
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| Have I lost the plot or is this on the wrong message board?|
| No, it's the the right board...you see, he wants us to make DL-1s with very slack angles.|
(Get the joke?)
| Well... actually... I had always thought a "British" chopper cobbled together in the DL-1 style (rod brakes and all) would certainly be awesome. I just don't have the technology... nor the time...|
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| Any idea what kind/size nuts I need for a front Dynohub? I have a feeling they won't be easy to find...|
Sorry about the wrong category earlier...
| Any idea what size/kind of nuts I need for a Dynohub? I have a feeling that whatever they are, Ace Hardware won't carry them...Thanks|
| Check back on some old messages, probably a month or so ago. I managed to find a website with the British Standard Cycle thread charts on. With a bit of careful measurement you will find what it is you have and thus what nuts you need. Don't be fooled, they won't be anything other than BSC threads.|
Matthew - another thread
| Not Whitworth, huh? The reason I wanted to know is that I am going to have to order online, and I wanted to size it first. It is bigger than the standard front hub size for a Raliegh.|
Any idea what kind of store might carry these? Or what size I should be looking for?
Try dropping an email to Sturmey Archer Hub Specialist Peter Read. He will probably sell you original S-A nuts in the size you are looking for.
Dick in L.A.
| Ahh ... It's the *axle* nuts you are after. (I took your need to be the tiny nuts for the 4 fixing screws.) The oversized front axle nuts for the Dynohub are the same size thread as the rear axle nuts. They are cosmetically different, though, because of the red "R" on the acorn cap.|
Dick in FL
| Thanks for your help, guys. Actually, the very nice gentlemen witht he tattoos at the bike shop who built up my wheel with the Dynohub gave me a couple of the correct nuts - hadn't even thought of asking him.|
Anyway, the hub is now on my new daily commuter - a 47(?) Rudge-Whitworth with blackened cranks, handlebars, brakes, nuts here and there, seat udercarriage and cable clips, plus a full chaincase. Just slapped on a 60s vintage light set for those early morning commutes. It's not as civilizied as a Roadster, but it is light enough for me to drag onto the train when I need to.
Any idea how old the dynohub might be? It's made with Bakelite as an insulating material - does that narrow it down any?