| While I've used Brake-Klean to blast clean the outer surfaces of a hub, etc... I was wondering if anyone here ever used it to blast the inside of a hub clean? Just stick the wee straw into the oiler port of the hub and blast away. I've been pondering doing just that to see what, if any, adverse effects there may be. If none, it could be a pretty simple way to clean out the inside of a hub sans complete dis-assembly.|
Thought? Experiences? Warnings? All appreciated.
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| A thought & warning from experience: Any cleaning solvent sprayed inside the hub will cause the grease in the bearing races to wash away, requiring disassembly for regreasing.|
Honestly though, I don't see what people find so difficult about opening up their Sturmey hubs. Most of them simply require only two steps to remove the internals:
#1: Removal of the left-hand bearing races and locking nuts (simply unscrew!)
#2: Removal of the right hand ball cage (which usually requires the removal of the gear cog, which is simple enough).
After these steps, the internals will simply slide out through the right side of the hub shell. Couldn't be any easier - you don't even need to take the right hand bearing races off!
Is brake clean the Tri chloro ethyl in a can stuff? Like dry cleaning fluid, cold when it comes out but very good for getting grease out of clothes. If it is, No would be my suggestion. You could always try a little parafin (kerosene??) and then let the hub drain for a day or two and replenish with the correct oil.
What do other folks suggest?
Matthew - musing.
| P.S.: Like it or not, any solvent sprayed into the hub to wash it out WILL dilute the bearing grease, and to put new grease in the bearings, you'll have to dissasemble the hub.|
Either-or, you can't get around it...unless you don't mind your SA hub sounding like the wheels of a hotshot-intermodal freight train scraping the rails on a high-speed 75 mph curve.
| I admit to spraying a stream of WD-40 in the oiler hole of an SA hub, but only to see if the lack of moving parts is due to the hub being gummed up or something more serious. As Kurt points out, I'll follow this method up with overhauling and regreasing the hub, but it can be an effective temporary fix. Amazing how old solidified grease and grime (and 3-and-1 oil!) can gum those things up.|
| heh heh... well, I thought it was too "simple" a procedure. No, I'm not having any issues with any hubs. I was just thinking again (ouch!). ;-)|
Meanwhile... yes the trichlorethylene spray... Brake-Klean. It's outrageous for spraying down external surfaces that are all gunked up.
One thing about S/A hubs... that coating of oil that seems pervasive on all of them... while it does attract dust and grime and such... sure does preserve the surfaces. Whenever I use the Brake-Klean on the externals, they all come up like shiny new pennies!
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| I use if for cleaning out the bottom bracket cups and axles in the bicycle frame. Not for use with the sturmey- archer hubs however. |
| Restoring a raliegh supreme,so far so good but I need the spring's in the 3 speed hub part # saw6 aw pawl spring,I need 4 as I have another to do when I'm done with this one and I figure them would be wore out also.Any help would be appreciated.thank's.|
| oops it's a supurbe sorry.|
| Take a look at Mike's web site:|
| Neat stuff. For those that don't know... for some odd reason this forum converts the tilde character to an apostrophe.... so just change it back when you cut and past the URL to the address field on your browser.|
Larry "Boneman" Bon
| The Raleigh Serial Chart of '47-'55 has been progressing quite slowly, as serial numbers have been slim to none recently. It's a pity, as a few more of the right serial numbers should explain the extremities of each year's serial numbers.|
Those who may be curious as to my current findings can read my monograph upon the subject here:
I would appriciate it if those collectors who haven't already participated to please do so, so I may be able to succesfully decode the serial charts.
Currently, I am focusing only on steel-framed, Nottingham-made Raleighs dating from 1947 to 1955. I will tackle the serials of the later models after I conclude the chart for these earlier years.
As before, I will REQUIRE these five pieces of information:
*Make/Model type (i.e. Raleigh Sports/Rudge Superbe)
*Serial number (minus numerals if prefered, however, no soul other then I will have access to this information, if emailed to me. Furthermore, if the Nottinghamshire archives are partially correct, these digits may be of importance. If you choose not to state the numerals, please let me know how many digits there are in the serial number.)
*Rear Hub year stamp
*Rear Hub month stamp
*Front GH6 Dynohub date stamp (if applicable)
Optional is if the owner wishes to supply a photograph of the cycle to me. This is mostly just to further confirm that the cycle is actually from the said year, and hasn't had the hub replaced or other little innacuracies that might hamper the construction of this chart.
All information listed above may be emailed to me at firstname.lastname@example.org.
All the best,
| Hi, what years of the Raleigh Sports had the made in England sticker on the top tube? Mine is a 74 and doesn't have it. Rather it has a tiny a rectangular yellow sticker just above the bottom bracket on the seat tube that says "Made In England". Was there a switch some time in 74? My bike seems to date from early 1974 as the rear hub is a May 74.|
| I have a 1974 Roadster which still has the decal on the top tube and the rear hub is dated 74 2 which I think is all original.|
| hmmm mine has been kept in very good condition, but shows no signs of ever having had one. |