| I just came across a New Old Stock Raleigh Roadster 28" wheel, 3 speed dated 1973. Ladies bike. It is in new never ridden condition, it was assemebled when I found it and had been on display in an old shop that I have been cleaning out and was shuffled off to the "back room" where it has sat for the past 30+ years. I can have pics tommorrow to email. I am taking offers. I really don't know what the value would be...just wish it were a mens cycle and I would keep it. It may hit e bay soon unless I get an offer I feel is fair. Thanks klunkcycles at hotmail.com |
I was in an antique/junk shop, and I saved the owner from buying a Coca-Cola bike that someone was trying to pass as a 1950's original, so to make a long story short, he took me upstairs, (where people don't get to go) and showed me the other bikes he had. Well, one was a Ladies Loop-frame (correct nomenclature?) BSA single -speed with blackout hubs, crankset, and handlebar assembly. It had Rod brakes, and a non full chain guard, and the pedals had wooden blocks. The fenders were pretty flat (not the kind with the chrome tip on them) and the rear fender had holes for a skirt guard.
Is this a wartime bike, because of the blackout parts, and wood pedal blocks? And what would be a fair price for me to offer him? It's in fair condition, with some surface rust, and some paint loss. I'm sure it'll look better once the inch of dust is removed.
Any help is appreciated, and you can e-mail me at majesticdecadence_at_yahoo.com
(I'll take the suggestion of the earlier post about posting e-mail addresses)
| Just because a British bike has blacked parts in place of chrome does not indicate it is a war era bike.black out parts known as "Japaned" was popular in the 20s and 30s.The wood pedals might be from the WW2 era.|
| True. There were "All Weather" Roadsters from the 1910s onwards which were entirely black enamalled. And Raleigh Industries and others were turning out bikes with black enamelled bits instead of chrome as late as 1949.. My Rudge Super Safety among them. |
Remember, too, unless you were in HM Forces, you weren't getting a new "wartime" bike or anyother sort period. Civilian production halted for the duration around the end of 1940.
| i just received in the post today from dulux (orica) a new powdercoating colur catalogue and to my surprise there is a colour called olive green which although its not exactly the same as the raleigh green its pretty damn close.i have a 73 sports that is fairlydevoid of its paint so i am off tomorrow to my local guys who do a wonderful job to get it done.down here in australia a frame and forks costs $70. heres a little tip that my guys gave me,if you apply a zinc rich undercoat( its a powdercoat)then your top coat while it is still tacky the top coat applies a lot smoother and helps hide inperfections in the frame. iknow a lot of restorers dont like using powdercoat but i have been restoring bikes for twenty years and have never had a bad one yet.good applicators good job,also never acid dip a frame if your p/c acid can get encapsulated by the p/c and then you have peeling problems.i will let you know how it goe and try and post some pictures|
| Hi Paul,|
AUD $70 powder coat - This guy doesn't happen to work in Melbourne does he? As for dip stripping .. yep the gunk just keeps oozing out
| nat i am in brisbane but there must be some decent guys in melbourne.ask around some of the restorers.whats the weather like in melbourne at the moment? 37 deg celsius 87 %humidity,whats in your collection?|
| looking to install an aw hub into a vintage mixte frame with rear dropouts made for a full 3/8" axle. has anyone successfully attempted this maneuver, and if so, any suggestions on how to deal with the extra space in the dropouts? right now, i'm thinking shims, but it seems there's gotta be a more elegant and mechanically sound solution.|
| I installed an FW (later changed to an AW) in my SuperCourse. The AW works fine. (The FW was installed fine, but had worn parts I haven't been able to replace.)|
The extra space is not a problem if you realize that Sturmey made larger antirotation washers to fit frames with wider dropouts. The normal 3 speed framess use 7.9mm washers (HMW155). The larger washers for newer frames are 9.5mm (HMW494 - the parts numbers are from http://www.sturmey-archer.com/pdfs/AW_NIG_3_Speed_Hub.pdf).
I was able to get the newer washers for my bicycle and a friend's bike a few years ago. Lately, I haven't been able to find them - let us know if you find a source.
| Harris cyclery shows these special washers in their online catalog. However, when I tried to get some I was told they are on "Long Term Backorder" whatever that means. |
I've used the standard anti-rotation washers and not had a problem in bikes with 10mm dropouts.
| I’m fixing up a 1969 Raleigh Sports as a bribe for my wife and have a few questions, hopefully someone can help. (A word of warning, don’t get caught washing your bicycles in the shower. It’s okay to do it…..just don’t get caught.)|
Everything on the bike was appears original except the grips, someone had put some gaudy blue things on it. I am assuming the original grips were simple black rubber ones, similar to the reproduction ones sold on Sheldon Brown’s website. http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/three.html#grips
Did it come with a brown or black Brooks B72 saddle as original equipment? The one with it when I bought it was a light colored brown one which darkened considerably when I put mink oil on it, but I am not opposed to looking for a replacement. I’m very curious about this one, the light brown leather saddle seems incongruent with the black utility bag. In my opinion the looks of the saddle detracts from the overall esthetics of the bike, but the goal is a factory fresh appearance.
There is a fair amount of surface rust on the bike, should I decided to repaint it (originally Raleigh Green) what type of paint available now that would be a close match? Is there a shop with an on-line website that will repaint it and re-decal it with good results?
I’m removing the rust from the chromed parts with bronze wool. Is there an on-line metal platter with experience re-chroming bicycle parts? Would someone with experience with bicycle parts be best, or will an automotive customizer suffice? Was the kickstand originally chromed?
What size bearings were used in the different areas of the bike? Will white lithium grease suffice as a lubricant?
What weight oil was used in the rear hub?
If anyone can help with one or more of the questions I would greatly appreciate it!
| Michael, if you take a look at the 1969 Sports pictured in the Raleigh catalogue on the retroraleighs site (http://retroraleighs.com/catalogs/1969/pages/02.htm and http://retroraleighs.com/catalogs/1969/pages/03.htm), you'll see a Brooks B72 saddle and white (!) grips for both the gent's and lady's models. For surface rust on the paint, try using rubbing compound or auto microfinishing compound, but be careful rubbing hard on any decals as the compound will take them right off. For the chrome, try rubbing with bronze wool and a metal cleaner. After some good elbow grease, you likely won't need to go the route of repainting or rechroming; unless the bikes been out in the rain for the last 36 years, the paint and chrome hold up remarkably well. Good luck!|
| The B72 is correct for a '69 Sports. I use brown shoe polish to keep them dark and shiny. The original finish was a sprayed-on coating (probably nitrocellulose lacquer with a plasticizer), and it can wear off, exposing a light brown leather color. Try the shoe polish and buff it, and I'll bet you will be surprised how nice it will look. If it's still too light, try some black polish on top of that, which should turn it dark brown. As to rechroming, it's very expensive, so if the bronze wool doesn't do the trick, I would suggest asking on this forum for some replacement chrome bits in better shape. There are a lot of good used parts about. Incidentally, I have used STEEL wool on English chrome, both bikes and cars, for over thirty years, and have never had a problem with scratching. Chrome is very hard stuff! I use #0 or #00, followed by a good coat of wax, and it really does the trick beautifully, unless the old chrome is really far gone, in which case nothing will really help. Good luck!|
| And aluminum foil makes an excellent polisher as well...crumple it up, add some metal polish and go.|
| Thanks for all of the advice! Over the last couple of days I've really gotten into the project and although the paintjob isn't showing much improvement the chrome is coming out great.|
| " Is there a shop with an on-line website that will repaint it and re-decal it with good results?"|
Won any lotteries lately? If so, CycleArt http://cyclart.com/ does a great job.
BTW Everyone I know uses 0000 gauge steel wool on chrome.