| Can't say it any simpler - I'm looking for the internals from a Sturmey FW. |
If it comes any cheaper, I might go for a damaged one (unlikely, eh?), as I have a spare planet cage, long-width axle and other spare parts for the FW (just not the very important LH gears!).
Don't need the hub shell, unless it happens to be alloy. I might as well mention that I'm looking for an alloy shell from an AW or S5-2 to stick these FW internals into.
If you have either, you can contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org.
| Happy Christmas to you all regardless of faith, gender or nationality.|
Matthew - peace be with you.
| Chris / Clarence: You owe me a wheel; read your ebay email.|
| I'm cobbling together another single speed roadster of unknown origin and wonder if someone can help. The frame has real slack angles and huge wheelbase. Lugs are identical to a 50's Hercules entry level club bike I have. Pinned, straight cut lugs that have ovals cut from each side on all three maintube lugs, single gauge tubeset, (A&P perhaps?), oil port on left side, "Made in England" generic BB. It has two typical left/right headbadge holes as well as two holes located top and bottom on the raised lug area??? Finally it has tapped mudguard mounting tabs, stamped fork ends, faint gold pins on original dark blue paint and no serial number...(might have to clean some more grime to find it)|
Any ideas or pics of similar frames to help ID this orphan?
| Sounds identical to a late-50's Hercules Tourist I have. Mine has 5-digit, 2-letter serial number stamped on left-rear dropout.|
| Thanks Jack...the serial number was there under the grease although mine has 2 letters and 4 numbers. Thanks!|
| My desire for a 531-framed Raleigh Sports is gradually coming to fruition, and I am pleased to report very good progress made on it this last evening. |
Following the obligatory polishing of the final clearcoat, I installed the headbadge (thanks Sam!), headset, and chrome replacement AKISU fork (thank you Gordon!). The original 531 fork had the common jammed stem lodged in it.
Here are two photos I took of the frameset after these installations:
Next up: A pair of aluminum Weinmann, 27", hooked-bead rims, Sturmey-Archer FW (with AW alloy hub shell), Nitto North-Road bars, GB short-extension stem, and black, 27", Bluemels Popular mudguards (anybody have a pair for sale?).
Looks very nice. What was the frame originally?
| It was a late '70s Raleigh Gran Sport. 531DB main tubing w/531 stays.|
The dropouts are the cheaper stamped steel Raleigh fare with no hanger - as usually featured on the Gran Sport - but work out nicely with the Sturmey drive, for there's no derailer used with this setup.
I'm torn between naming the design "Gran Tourer" (a name also used on a UK-only 1970's Raleigh 10 speed model) or "Sports Roadster". I'm leaning towards the latter.
All the best,
| I found a pair of Bluemels Populars at the LBS today, a pity that they are in white though! Nevertheless, they were at a good price, so I purchased them.|
Just for the heck of it, I mounted them to the bike, along with a spare set of wheels currently residing on my Schwinn LeTour.
The end effect was worthy of a photo:
Quite traditional, isn't it? One might even be fooled into believing it's a 1940's machine.
Please excuse the messy work area, and you rest assured, the bottom bracket is not being damaged in the vise.
I'm torn between whether I should hunt up the black fenders, or go with these white ones...would appriciate your opinions.
| Sharp looking. Lot to sound obtuse... or even sacriligious... but could one possibly paint the mudguards? Or colour them with something? As to other mudguards we discussed.... no go. Bit of a bummer, that. :-/|
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| It's rather interesting that you mention it, as I believe Yellow Jersey would paint Bluemels fenders upon request.|
I wouldn't dare do so myself, however, and I believe Bluemels look their best when in their original molded color.
I'm seriously considering using the white fenders for the distinct '40s look - the black ones would probably blend in a bit much.
| I think they will look fine. Hmmm... .perhaps with a set of whitewall tyres.... that would be different, aye?|
| Keep the whites!!I recomend building your own set of wire stays fron SS welding rods then cap with white fixture tips used to finish off perforated board fixtures.|
A real club bike for sure--sam
| Looks like I'm going with the white fenders then - with a pair of Duro whitewalls to go along. Good thing the bike takes 27" wheels instead of 700C.|
Incedentally, Sam - how would you go about fabricating the sharp bend around the eyelet with stainless rod? I can see where making a simple bend wouldn't be too difficult, but I can't figure out for the life of me how to bend the rod with the pendant-shaped eyelit as the Bluemels had.
| Kurt, what do the stays look like? You know me, I just may have some. |
| One piece, "V" shaped, and bent in the shape of a small pendant/circle at the eyelit. If you need a photo, LMK.|
| The "V" stays would be something I'd have to work on.Some blumels used two stays not the V one.That's the way I went.To get the nice sharp eyelet---take a 2" piece of 1/2"angle iron,drill a hole the size of the evelet,put a bolt or rod the correct size in and braze in place(this should be from the inside angle side),now drill a small hold the size of the rod very close to the rod.Clamp the jig in your vice with the rod up.Next bend a 90 degree bend in the end of the SS welding rod and place it in the small hold ---then bend arould the bolt.A little fine tuning with plyers and vice and drimel and you'll have a SS stay.--sam|
| Oh, I have just broken my white Bluemels Popular mudguards. I caught the front one on a branch taking a shortcut. I couldn't find any replacements and have ended up putting some new silver/black plastic ones on. The bicycle is a 25.5 inch frame Raleigh Grand Prix in Black 1979.|
Keep them white and polished!