| Wife and I went on our first long(12 miles) tandem ride today.About 2 hours with stops.The San Antonio bike path takes you along the river to 4 missions.Stopped off on the way home for Fish&chips.What a great day---sam|
| Sounds wonderful! Here... in the vast frozen wasteland known as Northeast, PA.... we have four seasons..|
Winter, Almost Winter, STILL Winter... and CONSTRUCTION...
Alas, between the near record low temps and the immense quantities of "traction grit" all over the place... two wheeled travel would not be very comfortable, nor very safe.
So, thanks for letting those of us currently unable to "roll" live vicariously through your "adventure"!
Sooo... is it true what I hear about tandems being "argument bikes"?
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| I can only say that with winter (Cleveland) being so long, the only solution is to keep riding. I don't get many recreational rides in the winter, but I cycle to work every day. The coldest ride this winter was -1 F. It was 14 today and sunny. The problem with this type of weather is that it's been a few days since the last snow and the cars are really kicking up salt dust. After a few go by you can actually taste it in the air. We need a good rain to wash this crap off the roads.|
People at work think I've lost my mind, but they're used to it. I've been there for 5 years and riding the whole time. It's a 5 mile ride and really gets the blood flowing in the morning.
| Bicycling to work in low temps is one thing. Ya get warmed up with the excersize. One of the fellows at work rode his MOTORCYCLE in yesterday... FOURTEEN (14) DEGREES (F)!!!|
I caught a chill just seeing his bike on the pad!
Soon.... things will improve!
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| E- mail for a free copy. Stripping the Campagnolo Rcord|
One sheet from 1964 Dismantling and routine maintence description.
They show the Campagnolo spanner tool that is shown to be just what the doctor ordered for working on these derailers.
I have never seen this tool, and now I want one!
The scanning and retrieval of this information is working! The text is revived and comes thru the printer very well!
I'll be able to assist a lot of folks with all that I have now that my paper collection is in the computer. I can send thru the mail and soon I'll be able to e- mail it directly to whomever asks! I'm still adding things into the computer and I'll have to make up a list of what all I have and post that so folks can ask for what they need info on.
| Just recieved a call from my father on a job in Northern Miami. He happened to run into a yard sale full of bikes, and between all the Magnas and Roadmasters sat a Robin Hood.|
I don't have much information on it yet - sounds like an ordinary Sports, all there, but in pretty poor shape. I hear he got it for $10, mainly because it has a near-intact Brooks B72 saddle on it. I have no idea as to the year, but I believe it's a common 21" men's frame. He says it has the oval Raleigh rubber pedals which probably dates it to late '60s.
Will post some photos just for the sake of it later on today when he comes home with it - not sure what to expect, if much from the bike.
Who knows, maybe it'll clean up well.
Maybe I sound a bit too estatic about it, but here in Miami, pickings are slim...and a tad pricey.
| Sure enough, it's a July 1969 Robin Hood Sports model.|
Very conventional, nothing out of the ordinary, although the oval rubberblock pedals are rather unique. The Brooks saddle turned out to be a common 'butt-buster' vinyl touring deal though - no chrome to speak of on the rails or springs either, just galivinzed steel.
The whole bike appears to have been sitting outside, unused for the last 15 years. Front tire is (was?) a Dunlop Champion, rear is a later Raleigh Red-Dot. The Champion was in such horrid shape that the bead had split and the wires were sticking out.
Both the old tires and new have been abselute hell to remove and put on - even with the cautious procedures which I undertook when slipping the beads over on the new tires, I managed to puncture the new rear tube (and also managed to puncture the old rear tube, which had been intact before I monkied with it). Oh well - chuck it down to experience (and the Trek "wrench-grip" tire levers - I much prefer the Pedros brand).
Rear AW was predictably seized shut. I installed the internals from a rebuilt 1979 AW that I have had in the shed.
One thing I thought I'd ask you fellows: The frame appears to have some type of flat coating on it - no matter how much it's waxed (or oiled, which I believe only works on pre-50's oil-based, oven cooked Raleigh paint), it refuses to shine. The interesting thing is that if the small chips in the paint are examined, the frame shows a glossy, vibrant black one layer under this flat color. The seat as well refused to yield to Armor-All, and returns to flat black after an application of it.
I am familiar with the common phenominon of dull Raleigh paint, but never have I seen even seriously faded paint fight every attempt of which I try to return a partial luster.
Any ideas? Or should I just spray some clearcoat over it and let it be at that?
| I also have a '69 Robin Hood. I picked it up a couple years ago at a thrift store for $15. I should have been suspicious; there were several indications of recent service. (New tires, brake pads, etc.) All that was missing was the rear fender. It turned out to have a fierce pull when the handlebar was released. This proved to be easily remedied with a rebar stuck up the head tube while pulling on the fork blade. These are vastly under-rated machines. Every bit the quality level of the Raleighs. In fact I upgraded mine to a Raleigh using the fenders and Prestube rack from a Colt. (Still not ready to swap wheels.) The Raleigh fenders have brazed stays (nice). The chain guards won't swap. The Colt uses the newer style grips which I prefer to the white RH originals. BTW:1969 was still 32/40 on the spokes. It is now a 2-tone machine..... black frame with carmine red fenders and rack. Good luck with yours; mine is a daily driver.|
Dick in FL
| had a similar problem cleaning up the frame on my wife's '65 robin hood. i don't think it's a robin hood specific problem, but who knows? anyway, i happened to have some westley's bleche white tire cleaner around, and used it on all of the painted parts. what came off was a thick brown sludge, probably old wax, dirt & grease. afterwards, vin's frame polish left it nice and shiny. the one caveat to this approach is that it ate through what was left of the decals, too. since the decals we're already 2/3rds gone, that was the aim, but i wouldn't try it on a bike with decals i wanted to keep.|
| Dick, that bent fork sounds like a similar phenominon I have on my '71 Sports. It always veers to the left, but it's tolerable. |
Thankfully, this particular Robin Hood seems perfectly straight, down to those fragile wire stays - not a bend in them! That was a pleasent surprise.
Definitely just as good as any Raleigh, except for the bright-plating, which appears to be galivnized steel throughout - even the Brooks saddle frame and springs are galvinized, not to mention the front hub.
Raleigh and Robin Hood chainguards are interchangable on the pre-'73 machines though. My '71 Raleigh has the traditional clamp around the down tube, while my '73 has the braze-on tabs. Depends on the year.
I would love to see some photos of your collection, Dick - especially the Sprites.
I might try your suggestion on a small section of the bike and see if it works. The original decals on my RH seem quite intact though, so I might stick with the clearcoating.
Attached a photo of it (minus rear wheel) below.
| Just an update:|
Dissasembled the parts from it down to the bare frame and ran a few experiments with various rattle-can clearcoats.
Was successful in applying a nice, smooth coat of gloss clear with a Plasti-Kote enamel, and it came out surprisingly nice, for a reasonably quick "canned" spray job. The original "Robin Hood" downtube decal held up fine. I can't say whether it would have held up on the original box lining, as the only evidence of such lining was found only under the fulcrum clamp.
I would like to get an original, black Robin Hood chainguard for it if possible - doesn't need to be NOS, just something presentable with minimal rust spots and/or dents.
Thanks for that info on chain guard brackets. It just never occurred to me that there was a manufacturing change sometime after 1969. Seeing your photo reminded me that my Robin Hood came with a brand new Viscount mattress saddle which turned out to be a sleeper bonus. Except for the nameplate it is identical to mattress saddles from Brooks and Schwinn; viz., comfortable with great chrome undercarriage with double rails on each side. I have reconditioned about 70 bikes and this is the oldest.
Dick in Fl
| Hello Dick,|
I believe Raleigh revised the chainguard mounting in either 1972 or 1973 - not sure exactly which year, but I'm sure the original clamp-on type was still being used by '71, and my '73 features the later braze-on tabs.
Interesting that you mention the saddle, as the Robin Hood's original Brooks does not have chrome rails or springs - it's all galvanized, just like the spokes and front hub. Very dissapointing to see such cost-cutting measures on a Raleigh-made cycle.
| Snowing in chicago today but last Sunday it hit 57 in the PM.The nice weather must have prompted people to get out to the garage because on my normal Sunday afternoon ride I saw 8 bikes on the curb for pickup the next day.|
I brought this raleigh sports home. I have not seen this model before and wonder if anyone knows anything about it,especially interested in the age.
It is a gold color ,10 speed ,27"tires, wrong and missing parts, #LP3207.It has a front dyno hub.I believe someone posted a while back about a Sprite with a Dyno hub.Previous to this bike I had not seen a dyno hub on a 27".The changers and levers are Huret.I am posting a pic of the bike and a follow up pic of the seat tube.
The bike is rather heavy so I doubt it is very high quality but none the less interesting.I hope the graphics are a clue to the age. thanks
| Velly velly interesting, it's not an oridinary "Sports" Notice the wrap-around seat stays and the huge "wart" a.k.a. light mount on the right side of the forks, didn't catch all the braze-ons, but enough to make it something out of the ordinary. GH-6 too, 36 spoke? Early to mid 70's is my guess, but the frame should belong to a higher-end model |
| Most interesting.... and yes, 'twas I that had spotted a Sprite on Ebay, 27" rims... with front dynohub. Thought it to be unusual enough to have been a custom build.... but perhaps not. Nice find!|
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| I think that gold color was from 1972.Also the pedals are nice--I've seen those on ebay before.They have the replaceable rubber pads,I'd say a really nice find---sam|
| The crank has appeared on e- bay, these sell well as they fit the better bikes also.|
Never seen that cool downtube decal before.
I thought I have seen every version of the 27 inch wheel Raleigh Sprite especially with all the catalogs I have.
Not this one! This is part of what makes this group cool. Seeing the different variations of bikes.
| A very interesting find. As Sam says, that gold color was rather oddball color, popping up (with no explicable reason) on a few 1971 and 1972 Sports models (also featuring different decals).|
There's no questioning that your find is no standard Raleigh Sports - the dropouts are definitely not standard Sports fare, neither are the wraparound seatstays that Edward points out. It also has the common road fork used on the Grand Prix and other steel-framed Raleighs of the '70s.
What prompted Raleigh to produce a road bike model using the existing Sports name is beyond me (even more curious is why it wasn't heard of before).
I would have said the Dynohub to have been a later addon, until I saw the lamp mount on the fork - a highly unusual detail - one I have never seen before on any steel-framed Raleigh from the '70s.
One thing is for sure though - It's no Sprite. Frame tells against that. I'd venture to say the rear wheel is original with a good chance that the front is as well, that is, IF the lamp mounting is original, and not a later braze-on (which I doubt).
You've netted a most interesting find, and a rather nice one too, even though it may be missing a few things.
P.S.: What type of Raleigh headbadge does it have - stamped & painted brass, or painted & polished steel?
| Is ther a date on the dynohub. I think it is from the 60s |
| Good point Smitty - in fact, those decals do have a 1960's look to them.|
Find the date on the Dynohub - if it's original to this bike, then you'll have the date of manufacture right there. Check to see if the rims match and have the same markings, and if the light bracket appears to be an original piece (no color-differences). Those two points should indicate whether they are original or not.
| I'm guessing '63...I had a Lenton Sports with 2010 tubes from that year in that colour. The lamp bracket was phased out at that time.|
| 2030 tubes...my minds going away.|
| Checked the front hub for the date,don't know why i did not think of it.It is dated 3-70.Although there is a lot to suggest to me that this is a 1970's bike the decals suggest to me an older model.Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.|
| March up to that door, point at that awesome down tube decal and tell them it's a thing of beauty and tilt your head and ask them: "Why did you throw this out?"|
Never mind, We don't want them changing their mind and wanting it back.
| I think that this is older than 70's. I have a dim and distant recollection from my dim and distant youth that this was around in the UK in the early to mid 60's. A school friend of mine had the identical bike. Hope this helps.|
| i have a couple of sturmey archer 3 speed trigger shifers for sale. email me at firstname.lastname@example.org for pics and prices.|