ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Raliegh Colt posted by: Scott on 3/23/2005 at 11:31:11 AM
Hello, I am new to this site, but have a Raliegh Colt that my Uncle gave me. It is in pretty nice shape but in need if tires. The current tires are white walls and I can't seem to find them. I can get black and I have seen gum sided. Any ideas ? Tires are 26 3/8 "
Thanks

by: 141.154.32.196


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Raliegh Colt posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 3/23/2005 at 1:33:22 PM
Whitewalls are somewhat less common than the black or gumwall tyres. Keep an eye on ebay... check your local bike shops, etc.

BTW: Blackwalls or gumwalls are certainly very traditional tyres for the Colt.

Good luck!

Regards,

Larry "Boneman" Bone
by: 65.204.27.12

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Raliegh Colt posted by Kurt K. on 3/23/2005 at 2:08:33 PM
The Wal-Marts in my area have been recieving a good deal of Bell or Chen Shin "Brightwall" tires - essentially, blackwalls with a reflective pinstripe around the perimiter of the tire. They look good, and if your Colt is a early '70s model, it would look correct for the era.

Raleighs from the '70s did come with similar reflective tires, actually. In fact, for a rahther bizarr example, see the the 1976 Raleigh Sprite ad on www.retroraleighs.com . Not only are the tires gumwalls, there's a reflective stripe over the gumwall area. It looks horrible when combined with the gumwall. Curiously enough, I saw a batch of these rather odd tires at Wal-Mart recently, under the Chen Shing name. I believe that my local W-M has discontinued carrying these 27s" now, and only carries the 26 1-3/8"s.

BTW: The Chen Shing tires have a modern directional tread, not really appropriate for a Raleigh, while the Bell tires have a flat, "street" tread, but feature a small, but obnoxious yellow/red lettering "Bell Streetster" on the side.

Take care,

Kurt
by: 152.163.100.198

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Raliegh Colt posted by Kurt K. on 3/23/2005 at 2:17:17 PM
P.S.: Stay away from the brick-tread Li-Hisn / LHR tires at all costs. Their E.A.3. (EA3 = 26 X 1-3/8") size tire has to be the worst on the market. I've had pretty bad luck with other LHR tire sizes as well.

I highly recommend Chen Shing or even better, Duro. Duro tires are nearly impossible to come across unless you know the local distributer for them (call the folks at www.fnrco.com - they'll give you the number), but I must say that the ride of the Duro tires are almost unbeatable. Another plus: Duro DOES have an EA3 whitewall tire available...you just have to cross your fingers that your local dealer has them.

-Kurt
by: 152.163.100.198

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Raliegh Colt posted by Kurt K. on 3/23/2005 at 2:21:29 PM
Am I never finished? ;-)

One last thing that I forgot to mention: If you DO get Duro tires, and if you are not familiar with replacing tires & tubes on a bicycle - don't do it yourself! The Duro tires fit VERY tight on the Raleigh rims, and are nearly impossible to slip over the bead seat when installing them. They fit fine when at proper pressure though, but it's very easy to accidentally puncture the tube when putting in the Duros.

-Kurt
by: 152.163.100.198

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Raliegh Colt posted by Scott on 3/23/2005 at 5:18:22 PM
Thanks for the quick responces. I have found new gum wall on the net. Ilook it up and tell you the brand. I assumed because There were whites on the bike, thats what I should get. I'll let you know about the gum wall. Thanks so much.

I read that I can find the date of the bike by looking on the frame ? This is red and, I would say, very nice shape. Only a few scratchs.

Scott
by: 141.154.32.196

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Raliegh Colt posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 3/23/2005 at 5:24:39 PM
Actually... check the 3-speed Sturmey-Archer hub. There will be a date code stamped on the shell. 10 73 would be indicative of October, 1973 manufacture. Presuming it's the original hub, that's pretty much the age of the bike.

Sounds like you're having a good time with it... and THAT is what it's all about!

Later!

Larry "Boneman" Bone
by: 65.204.27.12

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Raliegh Colt posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 3/23/2005 at 9:17:20 PM
Duros are available at Walmart... but that's depending on your location. At least in my area, NE PA and NW NJ they seem to stock them. And yes... they are VERY tight fitting... you MUST use steel tire-levers to get them on. And off for that matter.

I've also seen the Cheng Shens at Walmart and K-Mart as well. I like the Cheng Shens myself as they are a bit easier to mount and seem to have a slightly beefier tread.

I've not yet tried the reflectorized tyres that Kurt mentions... though I have seen them and thought they were interesting.

Kendas are also available... I believe right here on Oldroads.

Later!

Larry "Boneman" Bone
by: 65.204.27.12

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Raliegh Colt posted by Pete on 3/24/2005 at 1:18:13 PM
The Michelin World Tour comes in 26 x 1/38" (650A)
My local shop (Shirk's in East Earl, Pa) got me some in solid black, $12 each. I'm happy with them.
Hopefully the below mess will take you to Michelin's page:

http://two-wheels.michelin.com/2w/front/affich.jsp?codeRubrique=2092004115358&codePage=2092004115358_10092004150523&lang=EN
by: 66.216.175.138

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Raliegh Colt posted by Marcus Kidder on 4/11/2005 at 1:42:36 AM
I JUST BOUGHT A RALIEGH COLT BIKE,IN GOOD CONDITION.I HAVE TO BUY NEW TIRES FOR IT.IS IT WORTH ANYTHING?
by: 68.160.148.95






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:English Roadster Restoration: BSA posted by: Anthony on 3/22/2005 at 9:58:54 PM
I'm restoring/updating a 1946 gent's BSA roadster, and I've just bought some parts for it. I'm documenting the restoration on my site at http://homepages.tesco.net/houseofsteel/hercules.htm where I've posted a few pics as well.

If you're wondering about the URL, it's because we thought it was a Hercules until we saw that the frame was embossed with BSA under the bottom bracket.


by: 62.253.64.14



   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:English Roadster Restoration: BSA posted by Chris on 3/23/2005 at 8:48:09 AM
BSA made bottombrackets and other frame type bits that lots of builders used.You'll find B.S.A.'s parts like this on a lot of bikes of this time period.
The bike is a Hercules make still, and Hercules in their own right were huge.
BSA was really famous and they go back a long time.
by: 68.41.204.197

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:English Roadster Restoration: BSA posted by Chris on 3/23/2005 at 8:50:28 AM
Still probably overall, You don't see a lot of this.
by: 68.41.204.197

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:English Roadster Restoration: BSA posted by Anthony Smith on 3/24/2005 at 12:37:32 AM
Brilliant!! Thanks for the info, Chris. I wouldn't have thought that would be the case but now it's apparent. THank you very much. I'll credit you on the site with this revelation the next time I update it.
by: 62.253.64.14

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:English Roadster Restoration: BSA posted by Chris on 3/24/2005 at 1:32:51 PM
Wait, re- reading your post you say the bike is a B.S.A.
It could be a b.s.a. bicycle. All bsa from their factory and also it could be another make with b.s.a. parts.

There is no badge or decal on the headtube?

by: 68.41.204.197

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:English Roadster Restoration: BSA posted by Anthony Smith on 3/25/2005 at 11:53:18 AM
OK, it could be a BSA. could its make be determined by the shape of the top cluster, for example?

As far as I recall, there was no decal on the headtube and certainly no badge.
by: 62.252.64.14

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:English Roadster Restoration: BSA posted by sam on 3/25/2005 at 9:16:22 PM
as Chris pointed out , many builder used BSA parts.BSA was the "Campy" of the 20s/30s.Post office bikes of Australia were built in Au but were reguired to be built using BSA lugs.(and not copys)Sence the bike is 40s I'd look for a BSA crank and 3speed hub and call it BSA--maybe find a headbadge too.Wouldn't have to get all the parts at once---have fun looking---change out as you find them---sam
by: 69.151.98.53






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Cycles and Parts for sale posted by: Geoff on 3/22/2005 at 3:22:58 AM
I am a hopeless fanatic about old English bicycles, and find myself in posession of about thirty of the dear old things. Now, this is a fine thing, except that they are beginning to take up a little more space than I would like them to, and since I just bought an even dozen at an auction last week, I must sell a few of them. Here's a sampling:
1940 Stoddard Gazelle Sports. Entry-level club 3-speed, top tube shifter, Wrights leather racing saddle, black enamel inverted North Road bars, Super Club front hub. Rides well, needs a good clean and maybe paint, chrome, etc but looks okay. $175. Picture on my website on Old Roads.
1940 Phillips/ TI roadster, rod brakes, original shiny black paint, chrome excellent for its age, rides well, rare and nice. Lovely cycle. Original Terrys mattress saddle or I will include a nice Brooks leather one if you like. Asking $450.
1963 Lenton 3-speed AW plus 2-speed Huret derailleur, chrome fenders, new 26 X 1-1/4" tires, original, nice, great paint, decals and chrome. Green. Rides well. Picture on Old Roads website.
1970 AMF-Hercules, Raleigh Nottingham-built 3-speed. Very nice original bike, great paint and chrome, rides well. $175
1971 Triumph Sports, 3-speed lady's bike, excellent original, super paint, chrome and decals, some scratches but very, very nice and original (even tires!). $195
1973 Raleigh DL-1, very original, paint and chrome look new, original tires, grips and pedals near perfect, rides super. It has a few scratches and some minor rust beginning to creep under the paint on the mudguards, but is pretty special. Asking $500
1975 Raleigh DL-1, not bad but needs paint and attention. New tires and tubes, rides well. $150
1961 Raleigh Superbe 3-speed men's, green, locking fork, working Dynohub and lights (twin taillamps), original B66 saddle, new Michelin tires and NOS brake blocks, half-chrome front fork with white head tube, some scratches but very nice, ridden regularly, rare bike, $295
1958 RAY lady's 3-speed, SW hub, rare, needs cleaning, cables, etc but not too bad, $75
1960 Royce Union lady's 3-speed, black, unrestored but not bad, $50
1960 Dunelt lady's 3-speed, purple, unrestored, rides well, $50
1967 Phillips Master Model men's 3-speed, red with chrome mudguards, unrestored, needs tires, cables, cleaning and attention, $50
1960 lady's Humber 3-speed, lovely old girl, black with original saddlebag, Dunlop tires, tubes, even the fancy valve caps! Rides well but needs cleaning and tuning up. $150 or $275 after I shine her up and do the tuneup.
1960 men's Raleigh Sports, rough and weathered but all there, Dynohub but wrong lights, $50
1930s lady's Dawes 3-speed club bike, Cyclo derailleur, Brooks Pro saddle, 26 X 1-1/4" wheels, Michelins, black enamel Lauterwasser dropped bars, very, very rare, lightweight and cool, rideable but needs restoration, $200
That's enough for now. There are others, in various conditions, including two other DL-1 Raleighs, several Sports machines, men's and women's, and lots and lots of parts. Email me with your needs and I will try to help. I can email pictures of individual machines.
I also posted this flagrantly commercial message on the "FOR SALE AND WANTED" section.
I sincerely hope, by the way, that folks are not offended by my offering all this "for sale" stuff here. If people prefer, I will not do it again. I really do have to sell some bicycles, though. We're tripping over them around here!
Geoff Rogers
413-259-1722
by: 141.154.161.28


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Cycles and Parts for sale posted by James on 3/22/2005 at 4:36:29 AM
Do you have a 22" DL1 complete or frame and fork.
Could you send me a pic of the Dunelt ladies club bike.

James
by: 71.34.82.8

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Cycles and Parts for sale posted by Bryan on 3/23/2005 at 1:22:54 AM
Geoff,

I think its perfectly appropriate to list your sale items here. List 'em once, let people know, then its up to them to follow up if they're interested. This is a community after all.

Regards,
Bryan
by: 172.150.44.178

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Cycles and Parts for sale posted by Geoff on 3/25/2005 at 2:47:28 AM
James,
Sorry, I can't access your email address through Old Roads. I have no 22" DL1s; they are pretty unusual, I fear. I can send you pictures of the Dawes club bike (is that what you meant? I don't have a Dunelt club machine) but need your email address.
Thanks,
Geoff
by: 70.109.228.191

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Cycles and Parts for sale posted by Rob on 4/1/2005 at 2:19:19 PM
Hey Geoff, if the Superbe's still available could you please shoot me a pic?
by: 69.211.54.254






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:locker posted by: soleil on 3/21/2005 at 4:06:15 PM
I've got a raleigh royal roadster 1988 and let it locked for a long time and have lose the key of the locker originally coming with the bike (under the saddle).
Do someone has any trick to help me unlock the bike.
Thank you in advance
joel
by: 81.248.105.3


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: locker posted by Warren on 3/22/2005 at 12:18:31 AM
Cut it off with whatever will do the job...big bolt cutter, dremel tool. hack saw. sawzall...

A local bike shop can likely help
by: 65.94.48.217

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:locker posted by Marc on 4/3/2005 at 6:48:24 PM
Salut, si ton antivol est un "fer cheval" tu peux t'en sortir avec une cl de 9,5 ( norme anglaise), si tu es dans la rgion parisienne je peux te dpanner
by: 62.35.27.12






MISC:FW hubs posted by: James on 3/21/2005 at 5:40:24 AM
What are you opinions of the FW hub? Is it worth the trouble or does friction in 1st gear negate the advantages of a lower gear? (that's what I've heard). I thought it might be fun to try out an alloy FW on my Raleigh clubman.


by: 71.34.82.8


   RE:MISC:FW hubs posted by Tim on 3/21/2005 at 10:30:57 AM
FWs and FGs are my favourite hubs. I've never noticed any friction in 1st gear compared with an AW. Incidently you can convert an FW into a 5 speed hub. There's an article on Tony Hadland's site showing how. Not for the faint hearted though.

Regards,
Tim
by: 213.249.149.4

   RE:MISC:FW hubs posted by Jeff R on 3/21/2005 at 8:44:27 PM
I have a FW on my 1948 Raleigh Clubman. I also have them on my Indian Scout and Norman sports. I prefer the four speed. When that extra long hill comes up its nice to have that extra low gear. The early FW's have a very stiff spring and require a hard pull or push depending on how your trigger is oriented. Find one from 1952 or later and it will have a softer spring and be much easer to shift into 1st gear. I acquired the softer springs and instaled them into my "48" and "50" FW hubs and they now shift like my late 50's and early 60's FW's.
by: 152.163.100.198

   RE:RE:MISC:FW hubs posted by Edward in Vancouver on 3/22/2005 at 1:10:51 AM
Have two FG's (same guts as the FW) and I love them. No problems with the hubs, but finding a decent 4 speed or older "3 or 4 speed" trigger is difficult. I went as far as making my own main spring for a trashed 4 spd trigger just so I could keep the hub going.
by: 207.6.252.107

   RE:MISC:FW hubs posted by Smitty on 3/22/2005 at 4:31:01 AM
What are your opinions on the FM hub. I think it does have more internal friction. I also had a problem with the rear planet carrier wearing into that disc. I bent the last ciol of the spring to evenly load the clutch and not put presure on the carrier. I also polished the end of the planet carrier. The old 4 speed triggers are hard to find. I ended up useing an AW hub mostly because I found a very good quadrent shifter and it looked so good and clean compared to the trigger and I can make a cable out of a derailer cable.
by: 24.182.166.48

   RE:MISC:FW hubs posted by Jeff R on 3/22/2005 at 12:45:56 PM
The FM hub is nice an a rail trail or some area where the terrain is relatively flat. On the rail trail you can always find the right gear, you know, not too high, not too low, but on a New England road with all the hills, if you gear it for climbing a hill, it's geared too low for the decent. If you gear it higher, you loose the extra low gearing for climbing hills. The ratios are too close for the street. I much prefer the wide ratio for the street.
I have found 4 speed triggers on ebay. They come up often and if you are selective you can find one under $20 bucks.
by: 152.163.100.198

   RE:MISC:FW hubs posted by Jeff R on 3/22/2005 at 3:00:14 PM
4 speed shifters on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=420&item=6519320705&rd=1
Also #6518419313 and #6519041711
Not my auction.
by: 64.12.116.198

   RE:MISC: FW hubs posted by Steve on 3/22/2005 at 4:02:09 PM
I have a 1948 FW on a club-type bike that I put together on a Raleigh "Super Course II" frame. I love it, although Seattle is a little too hilly for it to be of general use. Routes have to be carefully chosen with the FW; the bike I use for commuting has an S5.
I've never noticed any excess friction in low gear in either the FW or the S5.


by: 65.102.146.198

   RE:RE:MISC: FW hubs posted by Smitty on 3/23/2005 at 3:27:56 AM
Hey Steve are you sure that its not a Super course TT this is a super course with tubuler tires "TT" I have one and was wondering how rare they are. I think they were made for only one year. I know I am geting off the area a little here but was wondering
by: 68.188.56.227

   RE:RE:MISC:FW hubs posted by Smitty on 3/23/2005 at 3:33:49 AM
The trigers on Ebay right now are rough or not period. A good period 4 spd trigger are less common.
by: 68.188.56.227

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:FW hubs posted by humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 3/23/2005 at 9:45:02 AM
The F.C.'S - F.M.'S are more desirable than the F.W.'s. Pick up everything four speed-ish regardless.
Triggers could be the three/four versions and then the four speeds versions as well. Pick up all two piece 4 speed indicator chains as well. Cables and all Sturmey - Archer parts/ hubs bits for them as well, you collect. It's being tossed out by folks who do not know and what is available is getting high and crazy prices. Stash it away. The best, boxed, n.o.s., rare and sought after, expensive goodies in your collection. The stuff you don't mention having because all your cycling buddies will hound you to sell it to them and to avoid e- bay temptation you lock it up and forget it.Cycle hubs in the vault!

The F.W. is more common than the other two, still, none of it is being made anymore.
Alloy hub shells are a treat and up the value a bit. I cannot get anybody to sell me a N.O.S. F.M. to save my life. Used, reconditioned, is a struggle but N.O.S.? No, You never see them offered.
If you do see a F.C. OR F.C. in n.o.s., it'll be a bidding war!
Your source of parts, that old shop that has been supplying your love of old bikes could be closed up, the land sold or as in my case- You ring the guy up and here there was a fire and he's down the street in a different meaningless location filled with new, junk inventory. Work quickly! If some other pesky(somebody in the brotherhood, but still your enemy!) bike loving collector does not get in and get it away from you as they do- then some other stuff happens that is worse. Thrown out, sold, sold for too less money, sold into hands that don't know or appreciate, sold into hands that don't know what the other stuff they bought is worth or how it is used. I remember the times I bought up the very things I have been passiontely seeking and it ends up a gift or cheap because the seller is not at all aware of what it is and here she was throwing it out. Eyes bugged out, I'm out there going: "AHHEEEHHHAAA"
Home remodeling workers can walk off with an 800.00 camera but gosh darn it! the old cycle tools and goodies are safe!
You can remove the basic a.w. 3 speed innard unit and drop in a f.w. four speed unit into a 3 speed hub shell and not have to re- lace your wheel. It's an inprovement. The f.w. is also good for crazy hubrid derailer/Cyclo conversion unit projects as well.
While you guys were talking about this... We've cleaned out 3/4 ths of the shop. Pulled out drawers and loaded them into the truck and left the empty shelf unit or prised it away from the wall rolled it out the door and up onto the truck. All the Campagnolo stuff they had. We'll open up the Frank Berto book: The Dancing Chain. and the just out 2 nd edition expanded, inproved and corrected version and catalog the haul later! As you discover that you're too late I'm grinning and cutting up the medium rare Filet mignon and loking for my waiter to re-fill my glass.
Cheers!
by: 68.41.204.197

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:FW hubs posted by humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 3/23/2005 at 9:46:06 AM
The F.C.'S - F.M.'S are more desirable than the F.W.'s. Pick up everything four speed-ish regardless.
Triggers could be the three/four versions and then the four speeds versions as well. Pick up all two piece 4 speed indicator chains as well. Cables and all Sturmey - Archer parts/ hubs bits for them as well, you collect. It's being tossed out by folks who do not know and what is available is getting high and crazy prices. Stash it away. The best, boxed, n.o.s., rare and sought after, expensive goodies in your collection. The stuff you don't mention having because all your cycling buddies will hound you to sell it to them and to avoid e- bay temptation you lock it up and forget it.Cycle hubs in the vault!

The F.W. is more common than the other two, still, none of it is being made anymore.
Alloy hub shells are a treat and up the value a bit. I cannot get anybody to sell me a N.O.S. F.M. to save my life. Used, reconditioned, is a struggle but N.O.S.? No, You never see them offered.
If you do see a F.C. OR F.C. in n.o.s., it'll be a bidding war!
Your source of parts, that old shop that has been supplying your love of old bikes could be closed up, the land sold or as in my case- You ring the guy up and here there was a fire and he's down the street in a different meaningless location filled with new, junk inventory. Work quickly! If some other pesky(somebody in the brotherhood, but still your enemy!) bike loving collector does not get in and get it away from you as they do- then some other stuff happens that is worse. Thrown out, sold, sold for too less money, sold into hands that don't know or appreciate, sold into hands that don't know what the other stuff they bought is worth or how it is used. I remember the times I bought up the very things I have been passiontely seeking and it ends up a gift or cheap because the seller is not at all aware of what it is and here she was throwing it out. Eyes bugged out, I'm out there going: "AHHEEEHHHAAA"
Home remodeling workers can walk off with an 800.00 camera but gosh darn it! the old cycle tools and goodies are safe!
You can remove the basic a.w. 3 speed innard unit and drop in a f.w. four speed unit into a 3 speed hub shell and not have to re- lace your wheel. It's an inprovement. The f.w. is also good for crazy hubrid derailer/Cyclo conversion unit projects as well.
While you guys were talking about this... We've cleaned out 3/4 ths of the shop. Pulled out drawers and loaded them into the truck and left the empty shelf unit or prised it away from the wall rolled it out the door and up onto the truck. All the Campagnolo stuff they had. We'll open up the Frank Berto book: The Dancing Chain. and the just out 2 nd edition expanded, inproved and corrected version and catalog the haul later! As you discover that you're too late I'm grinning and cutting up the medium rare Filet mignon and loking for my waiter to re-fill my glass.
Cheers!
by: 68.41.204.197

   RE:RE:RE:MISC: FW hubs posted by Steve on 3/23/2005 at 4:43:14 PM
No doubt about it - the "Super Course II" decal survived, though the 531 decal is gone, and the paint is red rather than brown. The SCII is interesting in its own right, because the frame is a little different. I also have a ca. 1973 Super Course (regular, not TT) that has a 22" top tube and 17.5" chain stays - same as a Gran Sport of the same vintage. The SCII has a 22.5" top tube and 17" chain stays. It is a remarkably comfortable ride; perhaps the longer top tube was an early piece of design-by-lawyers to provide more toe-clip clearance?
by: 66.80.68.54