| Greets... just a note that lovers and lubbers of English roadster bicycles will again converge on Philadelphia this May 13-14-15 ...|
for rides, rallies on Raleighs, a time trial (NEW!), vintage bike workshop, Pub Tour and much more. For info and sked, please click on the link below.
All events center around central Philadelphia and are easy paced--except for the Time Trial!
here's a link to paste in yr browser:
thanks for reading...
michael mcgettigan/trophy bikes phila
| The parts on this bike!!! |
saddle,3-pin flutted cranks,GB brakes!!! and no bids as of now---sam
| Cyclists! PLEASE BE AWARE. Reccentley there has been a 9ft tall mammoth beast out to get people in spandex who are moving quickly. Since many cyclist's wear such suits, I feel it nessecary to caution y'all. This mammoth beast is said to be 9ft tall, heavily bearded, he may or may not be wearing a Led Suit, and he is very angry. CAUTION.|
| Shouldn't you be posting this on the bikeforums.com? There is no spandex here, it hasn't even been invented. |
| One I hadn't seen before|
| Cannons! That is something! Seems a shame to cover it up in the chaincase as such.|
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| Not cannons, Field guns. Royal Enfield's logo. My favourite make.|
| I can not get my dinohub (spelling)on my 53 Raleigh to shine brightly when bipassing the leaking battery pack and running directly off the dinohub power. I have tried every type of different bulb and it still is dim. Why?Also,was the frame of a WWII military bike used on Army air Force bases during WWII always blackened in or were some produced with left over chrome parts? Did some of these bicycles use hand cable brakes rather than rod brakes and did some use artificial leather(early vinyl) saddle seats during the war?|
| Your dyno /light might have one or more things worng with it--or---it might be working just as new.Remember they were not as bright as newer lights.But if it's not glowing the nice warm yellow that it should.First clean all terminals.Use new wire.Use new wire connectors.Clean the bulb base conections.Make sure you use the correct watt bulb.That all the easy stuff.If it still doesn't work right.The magnet might need re-magnitzing---get help!---sam|
And your most likely right about Army bikes.The Mercury Balloon roadester I saw had no chrome--came to America on a B-17.
| Ted |
A '53 with dynohub and DBU? Wow! The ultimate bribe to mollify a 16 year old's yearning for his own automobile.
Anyway, these units have always performed for me at least on a par with bottle generators. Try disconnecting the tail light and give us a report. Also, while you are at it, invert the bike, hook up a VOM, and take a voltage reading off the terminals. (Not too agreesively; without a tail lamp, it becomes easier to burn out the headlight bulb)Bear in mind that this will be an AC measurement because these units are just permanent magnet alternators. (No slip rings, commutators, etc.)
As a former devotee of Dynohubs I wish you Good luck!
Dick in FL (now an LED afficianado)
| If I recall correctly someone who posts here is using a halogen bulb from reflectalight in the headlight and a blinking LED in the taillight. What parts are needed to set up a blinking LED taillight? I'd like to try this. |
| I ran into a setup like this on a brevet bike at the Florida Bicycle Safari. He was using a Schmidt hub generator driving two different headlamps and a battery-operated tail-light. The idea behind the battery-operated blinking LED in the tail is to permit you to devote the entire output of the generator to the headlamp(s). All you need for yourself is a bulb rated for the output of your generator. SA's are around 2.5W; Schmidt's I'm told are 3W. Reflectalight should be able to help you out. |
| Maybe that's what the poster did,I might have misread his post, but I was under the impression the person was using a reflectalight halogen bulb in the front and a blinking LED both powered by the dynohub. The above mentioned solution sounds more likely though. |